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THE CHEMIST —THE MECHANIC —THE HOUSEWIFE — THE FARMER, 













in 7mA 1) 


THE 


PRICELESS 

RECIPES 


3000 FORMULAS AND METHODS 

FOR 

HOUSEKEEPERS, FARMERS, MANUFACTURERS 
DRUGGISTS, DYERS, WOODWORKERS 
DECORATORS, PAINTERS, METALWORKERS 
HUNTERS, TRAPPERS, TANNERS 
STOCKMEN, ETC. 

AND ALL PEOPLE IN EVERY DEPARTMENT 
OF HUMAN ACTIVITY 

BY 


-U— 


Dr. N. T. OLIVER 




if '/ 

J /si 


>» 



ILLUSTRATED 


CHICAGO 
LAIRD & LEE, PUBLISHERS 




































































Ofy right flntry 

CK>‘ 


S£tt*Nf> CO^V. 

0*iW«t to 


OKOttf DIVISION, 

OCT 15 1900 



Entered according to Act of Congress in the year eighteen 
hundred and ninety-five, by 
WILLIAM H. LEE, 

In the office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. 


Copyright, 1900, by Wm, H. Lee. 



























































CONTENTS 


DEPARTMENT I.-THE DRUGGIST. 

The Druggist . Pag ® 

Abbreviations and Signs.’ !!!!!!!!. o 

Tables of Weights and Their Equivalents!!'!!.'!^*!!!!;.'” * 

Tables of Measures and Their Equivalents. 19 

Apparatus. iZ 

Processes. 14 

Medical Preparations . i c 

Correct Classification.*.. 

How to Prepare.!!!!!!’!!. on 

Decoctions and Infusions.^V.!;;;;!!!!!!!!;!!!* 20 

Liniments, Ointments, Salves and Cerates!!!;!!;;*;*!. 26 

Lozenges, Troches, Cough Drops and Wafers..” ’!” 30 

Plasters and Poultices. 30 

Syrups. or 

Tinctures, Essences and Elixirs.«!!!.’I!;!!!;;!!.*;!; 38 

Popular Patent Medicines.. 43 

Tonics, Alteratives, Stomachics, etc...!!!!*.!.!””” 43 

Tried Remedies—Miscellaneous.!!!!!!! 46 

DEPARTMENT II.—THE CHEMIST. 

The Chemist. 54 

Inks—Any Color, For Every Purpose—ink Er’asers, etc!!!! 51 
Some Additional Formulas. 55 

Gold and Silver. 57 

Imitations, Preparations for Cleaning, etc.! 57 

Fireworks and Explosives. 59 

Explosives. *!. . 59 

Fireworks. .!!!!!!!!!.60 
















































































\(M 



4 CONTENTS 

DEPARTMENT III.—TOILET ARTICLES. 

Perfumes, Cosmetics, Toilet Articles. 69 

Distilled Waters and Oils. 69 

Perfumes. 70 

Dry Perfumes, Sachet Powders, etc.. 73 

Skin Preparations. 75 

Powders, Paints, Washes and Cosmetics. 78 

Special Preparations of Great Merit. 80 

Preparations for the Hands, Nails and Feet. 80 

Preparations for the Hair and Beard. 83 

Oils. 83 

Hair Restoratives, Tonics and Washes. 84 

Hair Dyes and Bleaches. 87 

Curling Fluids and Fixatures. . 88 

Pomades......89 

Depilatories... 90 

The Beard—Preparations Used in Shaving, eic ........ 91 

Tooth Powders, Washes, etc. 92 

Pastes. 92 

Powders and Washes. 92 

Toilet and Medicinal Soaps. 94 



DEPARTMENT IV.—THE HOUSEHOLD. 

Recipes for the Household. 99 

Renovating Recipes. ... 99 

Recipes for the Laundry. . 105 

Recipes for Cleaning arid Repairing. 108 

Furniture Polishes and Varnishes. 110 

Pests—Recipes for the Destruction of Roaches, Flies, etc. 116 
Household Miscellany. 119 

Additional Recipes. 125 

Unclassified. 125 


DEPARTHENT V.—ALL TRADES. 

All Trades. 183 

The Confectioner and Baker—Candy.133 

Ice Creams, Ices, etc. 141 

Directions for Freezing. 141 

Sherbets and Water Ices. 145 

Syrups and Flavors. 148 


tM 

fife 



v.vA'4 



■'5- r (C ) 

1. 


































































CONTENTS 


6 


Beverages. 151 

Beers, Non-alcoholic. 16:3, 166, 167, 168 

Bitters. 151, 53 

Cafe Noir, Coffee, Coffee Essences. 153, 156 

Champagne, Non-alcoholic. 154 

Chocolate and Cocoa. 154, 155 

Ciders. 154 

Cordials. 152, 157 

Koumiss—. 162 

Lemonades. 159, 160 

Vinegars...,. 158,160 

Wines, Non-alcoholic. 152,158 

Glues and Cements. 172 

Glues. 172 

Cements. 176 

Building. 176 

Miscellaneous Builders’ Cements. 177 

Cements for Other Purposes. 183 

Additional Unclassified Cements. 186 

Mucilages. 192 

Pastes. 194 

Sealing Wax. 196 

Pertaining to Metals. 197 

Solders, Alloys, etc. 197 

Rare and Valuable Compositions. 200 

Leather.208 

Care of and Polishes for Leather. 208 


Hints for Trappers and Hunters .211 

Skinning and Stuffing Animals. 211 

Curing and Tanning Skins. 215 


f 


I 


The Painter and Decorator. 

Paints. 

Tinting.. 

Mixing Paints. 

Compound Colors. 

Polishing. 

Staining.— 

Some Additional Processes for Staining Wood 

Varnishes and Japans. . 

General Hints on Japanning and Varnishing.. 
How to Make Colored Varnishes. 

The Farrier. 

Recipes for Treating Diseases of Horses........ 


216 

216 

217 

218 
227 

251 

252 
254 
257 
265 
281 

282 

282 












































































6 Contents 

DEPARTHENT VI.-THE FARH AND DAIRY. 

The Farm and Dairv. 287 

Draining. 287 

Seed and Plants Required for Given Space. 290 

Weather Indications. 291 

Storing and Curing. 293 

Fruit. 293 

Vegetables. 296 

The Dairy. 299 

Milk and Milking. 299 

Destructive Insects. 302 

Worms and Other Pests. 302 



DEPARTMENT VII.—GENERAL HISCELLANY. 

General Miscellany... . 307 

Peculiar Experiments. 320 

Hints on Patents and Inventions. 321 

Various Recipes for the Sick Nurse. 171 

CLASSIFIED ALPHABETICAL INDEX. . 325 


















































































EXPLANATORY 


It is the aim of the compiler to present in as small a space as 
possible the rules and processes, together with the formulas 
and recipes for manufacturing many of those articles used by 
mechanics, artisans, families, and all people in every walk of life, 
and by so doing, not only furnish the knowledge as to the “way 
it is done,” but also to place the reader in a position “to do it.” 
As far as possible, ambiguous and technical terms have been re¬ 
frained from. Occasionally some such phrase may be found, 
not generally understood, in which event a dictionary will soon 
explain. 

The cardinal points of excellence, namely, “Reliabil¬ 
ity, Usefulness, Brevity and Simplicity,” have been 
closely followed, and if the searcher after information will 
carefully read the Table of Contents, then scan the pages of this 
work, study well the signs, abbreviations, processes, table of 
weights and measures, etc., and then closely follow the given 
rules, suceess must surely crown each and every effort. 

The various departments are characteristically classi¬ 
fied, divided under sub-heads, and the alphabetical index is so 
comprehensive that any special article can be found by referring 
to the index for that department. If the formula desired is 
not found under any particular class, search the Miscellaneous 
Department of each division, or the Department of General Mis 
cellany, and if it is an article of general use it will be found. 

In conclusion the author wishes to state that great care has 
been taken in compiling the work, which represents the result 
of twenty years’ conscientious collecting 1 ; and that it 
may prove a never-failing friend and a means of saving and 
earning money for its possessor is the sincere hope of 


THE AUTHOR 




























































































































€AIJTIOtf. 


As many of the Recipes herein gathered, have been ob¬ 
tained at a large expenditure of time and money, and are 
fully protected by copyright, we warn any one from 
Publishing, Selling' or Offering for Sale 
any of them separate from the volume itself, as we shall 
protect our rights to the full extent of the law. 


j£Sjp“Books sent to any address on receipt of price. 


































































































































































































































DEPARTMENT I. 

THE DRUGGIST. 


Abbreviations and Signs in general use in medical pre 

scriptions and recipes are as follows: 


Signs. Derivations. Meanings. 


R. 


..Take 

aa.,. 


,.Of each 

ft. 


..Pound 

1 or oz. 


..Ounce 

3 or dr.. 


..Dram 

3 or Sc. 


..Scruple 

Cong. 


..Gallon 

O. or pt. 


..Pint 

f 1 or F. oz. 


..Fluid ounce 

f 3 F. dr. 


, Fluid dram 

M.'. 

.Minimum.. 

..Minim 

Chart. 


..Small paper 

Coch. 


..Spoonful 

Colly r. 


..Eye water 

Dpooet. 

.Decoctum. 

..Decoction 

Ft . 

.Fiat. 

..Make 

Garga. 


..Gargle 

Gr. 


..Grain 



.. Drop 

Haust. 


..Draught 

Tnfns__, T . 

.Infusum. 

..Infusion 

M—. 


. .Mix 

■\fass . 

.Massa. 

..Mass 

"IN/rist. T .____ 

.Mistura... 

..Mixture 

Pul V 

.Pulvis. 

,, Powder 

Q. S. 


.. Sufficient quantity 

Sig. or S . 


..Write 

Ss.- 


..Half 




































































































































•.0 Department i. 

Useful Table of equivalents of measures in taking medicines 
or preparing them; 

Teaspoonful.about 1 F. dram 

Dessert spoonful. about 2 F. drams 

Tablespoonful.about 4 F drams 

Wineglassful. about 2 F. ounces 

Teacupful.about 4 F. ounces 

Breakfast cupful.about 8 F. ounces 

Tumblerful.about 8 F. ounces 

Thimbleful.about F. dram 

Note. —In preparing or taking medicine exercise particularity 
in following directions. 


TABLES OF WEIGHTS AND THEIR EQUIVALENTS. 

Apothecaries Weight is used by druggists in compounding 
medicines, and is the official standard of the United States Phar¬ 
macopoeia. In buying and selling medicines not ordered by pre¬ 
scription, avoirdupois weight is used. The denominations of 
apothecaries weight and their relative values are as follows: 



Ounces. Drams. Scruples. 

• • = 12.=96.= 228... 

1.= 8.= 24... 

0. 1.= 3. . 

.. 0 . 0 . 1 ... 


Grains. 
..=5,760 
...= 480 
...= 60 
... = 20 


Or, giving the table in its usual form, we say: 

20 grains..;.. scruple 

3 scruples.. dra m 

8 drams.l ounce 

12 ounces.i pound 

Troy Weight is used by jewelers and at the mints. It is for 
the weighing of precious metals and stones. Its denominations 
and their relative values are: 

Pound. Ounces. Pennyweights. Grains. 

1.= 12. =240.=5,760 

®. 1.. 20.= 480 

0 . 0 . 1 .. 24 

Or— 

24 grains.......l pennyweight 

20 pennyweights.. 1 ounce 

12 ounces.. pound 

Avoirdupois Weight is used for weighing all goods except 
* * or l^oy and apothecaries weights are employed, 

and for compounding recipes for domestic purposes and for the 

















































































THE DRUGGIST. 


11 


Its denominations and their relative values 


mechanical arts, 
are as follows: 

Ton. Cwt. 

(hundredweight.) 

1.=20. 

0. 1. 

0 . 0 . 

0 . 0 .. 

0. 0. 

Or— 

16 drams 

16 ounces. 

28 pounds. 

4 quarters. 

20 hundredweight 


Quarters, bounds. 

(Qrs.) (lbs.) 

= 80.=2,240....; 

= 4.= 112.: 

1.= 28....: 

0 . 1 .... 

0 . 0 .... 


Ounces. Drams. 

(ozs.) (drs.) 

35,840.... =573.440 
; 1,799....= 28.672 
448....= 7,168 

: 16....= 258 

1....= 16 


1 oz. 
,1 tt>. 

1 qr. 

1 cwt. 
1 ton 


The common standard weight by which the relative values of 
these systems are compared is the grain, which, for this purpose, 
may be"regarded as the unit or beginning of weight. The pound 
troy and that of apothecaries weight have each 5,760 grains; 
the' pound avoirdupois has 7,000 grains. The relative propor¬ 
tions and values are as follows: 


Troy. 


1 pound. 

1 ounce. 

1 pennyweight (dwt) 


1 pound. 

1 ounce. 

1 pennyweight. 
1 grain. 

Apothecaries. 

1 pound. 

1 ounce. 

1 dram. 

1 scruple. 


1 pound. 
1 ounce.. 
1 dram . 
1 scruple 


Avoirdupois, 
oz. dr. 

.=13 2.65 

..= 1 1.55 

.= 0 0.877 

Apothecaries, 
lb. oz. dr. sc. gr. 
=1 0 0 0 0 

=01000 
=0 0 0 1 4 

=0 0 0 0 1 

Avoirdupois, 
oz. dr. 

.= 13 2.65 

.= 1 1.55 

.= 0 2.19 

.= 0 0.73 

Troy. 

lb. oz. dwt. gr. 

....=1 0 0 0 

_=0 1 0 0 

_=0 0 2 12 

....=0 0 0 20 
















































































































1 pound.=1 

1 ounce.=0 

1 di’am. =0 


Tables of Measure.— Most liquid substances are dispensed 
by measure instead of by weight. Apothecaries or wine meas¬ 
ure is the official or standard system in use by the pharmacists 
of the United States. Its denominations are gallon, pint fluid 
ounce, fluid dram and minim, and the signs used to express 
them and their relative values, are as follows; 








0. F oz. F dr. Min ims. 

■=8.= 128.= 1,024.=61,440 

..= 128.= 7,680 



16. 

1 . 

0. 

0. 


780 

60 

1 


f/fcy 


1 


60 Minims.. p dr. 

8 F drs..*.l F oz. 

16 F ozs. 1 o 

8 0. . 1 Cong. 


mJM 

M 


Imperial Standard Measure is the system in use by Brit¬ 
ish pharmacists Its denominations and their relative Values 
are as follows; 


Qts. 

„=4. 

.. 1 . 


Pts. 

.= 8 .... 

.= 2 .... 

. 1. 

. 0 ... 

. 0 .... 


F oz. 


F dr. 


= 160....=1,280. 
= 40....= 320. 


20 .. 

1 . 

0 .. 


.= 160., 

.= 8 ., 
1 .. 


Minims. 
=76,800 
= 19 200 
= 9,600 
= 480 

= 60 






60 minims.1 F dr 

8 Fdrs..!l F oz! 

20 F ozs. 1 pt 

2 pints..7.1 qt! 

4 quarts.. ga i. 




















































































THE DRUGGIST. 


13 


This measure is in general use in all parts of the world, includ¬ 
ing the United States. The relative value of the United States 
apothecaries and British Imperial measures is as follows: 


United States 
Apothecaries. 

1 gal. = .83311 

1 pint = .83311 

lFoz = 1.04139 

IF dr. = 1.04139 

1 minim = 1.04139 


Pt. 

Imperial gal. or 6 

Imperial pt. or 0 

Imperial F oz. or 0 

Imperial F dr. or 0 

Imperial min. or 0 


British Imperial. 

F oz. F dr. Drops. 

13 2 22.85 

16 5 17.86 

1 0 19.76 

0 1 2.48 

0 0 1.04 


APPARATUS. 


The following are of great assistance in the making up of 
medical preparations, and although other articles can be used, 
it is by far the best plan to procure the tools of the trade if satis¬ 
factory results are expected: 

Mortars.— -These are among the articles of most frequent use 
in pharmaceutical processes. They are made of glass, wood, 
porcelain, iron, composition, marble and other substances, and 
vary in size from one ounce up. They are used for mixing oint¬ 
ments, cerates and soft pulverized substances; also for pulveriz¬ 
ing barks, spices, etc. 

The Pestle is the necessary assistant of the mortar, and is 
usually made in two pieces. This necessary piece of apparatus 
can be purchased of any drug supply house. 

Seales are an absolute necessity, as the proper propor¬ 
tion of the materials cannot be ascertained without them. 1 wo 
pairs should be used—one known as the prescription scale for 
weighing 1 drachm and under, and a larger pair for weighing 
over 2 drachms. 

Graduates or graduating glasses are glass vessels marked 
with a scale, and are necessary for measuring liquids. They can 
be obtained in several sizes. 

Spatulas are made of glass, ivory and steel, are a flat, flexi¬ 
ble bladed knife, used for mixing. The steel spatula or palette 
is the best for ordinary purposes. They come in several sizes. 
A common case knife answers the purpose. 


Percolator is a vessel made of tin. glass or wood, and is 
used for extracting the soluble principles from vegetable 
substances. ( See Percolation.) Sometimes they are made of por¬ 
celain or earthenware. The tin is the most generally used. It 
is in the form of a tube about 8 inches long and 3K inches in 
diameter terminating at one end in a funnel, and contains easily 
removable loosely, fitting perforated plates. The instrument 
acts somewhat on the principle of a strainer. See I rocesses % 
article on Percolation. 














































14 


DEPARTMENT I.* 


Funnels, or tunnels, are made of glass, porcelain, hard 
rubber, tin or other metals. They are used in transferring 
liquids, and several sizes are necessary. 

Retorts are made of glass or iron and are in several sizes. 
With them are needed stands or frames to support them, and 
funnels, filtering and displacement apparatus are necessary. 
Retorts are used in all processes of distillation. See Distillation. 


Filter Rack.— A funnel-shaped framework of wire used to 
hold the filtering paper. See Filtration. 

Lamps used in the process of distillation. The alcohol 
lamp is the best for the purpose, and should be provided with a 
frame or rack in which to place it. A cap is required to place 
over the wick of the alcohol lamp after using to prevent evapora¬ 
tion. 


Baths are used for securing a more uniform and fixed degree 
of heat than are obtained from the open flame or an ordinary 
heating apparatus. They are of various kinds, but those most 
generally used are the Sand Bath, made of an iron or copper 
vessel containing ordinary clean sand, in which the vessel con¬ 
taining the material to be heated is so imbedded and sui'rouhded 
as to prevent the two vessels coming in contact, and the Water 
Bath, which consists of one vessel within another, as an ordi¬ 
nary double glue pot, so arranged that they cannot come in con¬ 
tact at any point to which the heat is applied. 

Sieves come in several sizes; are fitted with silk or brass wire 
gauze for fine purposes, or horse hair cloth or wire netting for 
coarser ones. Drum sieves are such as are furnished with 
covers, rendering loss and dust impossible. Sieves are used in 
preparing powders, mixing vegetable pulverizations, etc. 

Note.—T he above are the articles in most general use, and are 
the most needed in large laboratories. Test tubes, crucibles, drug 
mills, tincture presses and a host of others are made use of, but 
for all ordinary purposes the list as here given is all that will be 
required. We will now pass on to the various ways of com¬ 
pounding medicines. 


PROCESSES. 

Decocting.— A method for extracting the active or useful 
principle from animal or vegetable substances, where the same 
cannot be injured by heat. It consists of boiling for a certair 
length of time; where the proportions are not given, use one 
ounce of raw material to one pint of water. 

Distillation.— The vaporization of a liquid in one vessel and 
conducting it in this condition to another. where it is condensed 
and collected. It is used for separating liquids from the solids 
with which they are mixed; for separating more volatile liquids, 
as ether, alcohol, etc., from others less so with which they are 
mixed, and for impregnating liquids with the volatile principles 



















































THE DRUGGIST. 


15 


of plants, etc., as In the preparation of the aromatic spirits, 
cologne water, etc. It is performed with a retort and receiver. 
Apply the heat with a spirit or alcohol lamp under the bulb of 
the retort, and produce condensation by wrapping cloths wet 
with cold water around the retort, when the principle desired 
will be effected. 

Filtration.— A process for separating insoluble matters, pre¬ 
cipitates, etc., by means otporons media , or the medium of slow 
pouring or dripping, which allows the passage of the liquids 
only, and employed for rendering liquids, tinctures, etc., clear 
and transparent, and separating valuable precipitates. Tinct¬ 
ures and dilute spirits are usually filtered through a specially 
prepared paper called filtering paper, and which can be procured 
of any druggist. It is cut in a peculiar manner, made into the 
shape of a funnel and placed in a rack or funnel, where it 
cleanly separates the articles to be run through. The process of 
making the paper filter is as follows: Cut a circular disc of 
filtering paper in two through the line of its diameter; take 
either half and fold it across the line of the radius, bringing the 
edges close together; then turn down the double edge of the cut 
side and fold it several times: finally, run a smooth, hard sur¬ 
face along the seam thus produced, to compress it. and spread 
the finished filter into an appropriate rack or funnel, first 
moistening it with water before the liquid to be filtered is 
poured in. 

A Cheap Filter is made by taking an ordinary, large-sized 
flower pot; plug the hole with a piece of sponge; then put a 
layer of powdered charcoal about 1 inch thick, the same of 
silver sand: then a layer of small stones and gravel about 2 
inches thick. This makes an excellent filter for impure water. 

Another method of purifying water is by placing in a tank 
of impure water a vessel so arranged that a sponge which it 
contains shall lap over the edge and dip into the water of the 
tank. The sponge gradually sucks up and purifies the water in 
the reservoir and allows it to drop into a smaller vessel or 
receiver, from which it can be drawn off by a tube. By placing 
a few lumps of charcoal in the receiver, filtration of the most 
perfect kind is effected. 

Any Vessel open at both ends (one smaller at one end than 
the other is preferable) can be used as a filter by setting it in an 
upright position and putting straw, sand or charcoal in the 
bottom, and passing the liquid to be filtered through it. 

Magnesia in small quantities placed in the paper filter 
greatly assists in clarifying tinctures, etc. 

Clarification. The removal of impurities from liquids by 
the admixture of some substances, usually albumen in some 
form, as milk, the white of an egg, or a solution of gelatine, 
which, by being coagulated, entangles and precipitates the con¬ 
tained impurities, rendering the liquids clear. Vegetable acids 
will clarify the expressed juices of plants. The following com- 









16 


DEPARTMENT 1. 


position is said to bleach all colored liquids: Albumen, 300 
parts; neutral tartrate of Potash, 2; alum. 5; sal ammoniac, 
700. The albumen must of course not be coagulated. The in¬ 
gredients are first dissolved in a little water and then added to 
the liquid to be clarified. 

Expression is required to separate the last portions of tinc¬ 
tures, infusion, etc.; also the juices of fresh plants, fruits, etc., 
after they are properly crushed. A screw press is generally 
used, but strong bags or cloths can be made use of. 

Infusion. —When the principles to be extracted from any 
substance ai’e soluble in water, and at the same time but slightly 
volatile, pour boiling water on it. cover the vessel carefully and 
allow the whole to remain untouched for several minutes or even 
hours, according to the greater or less penetrability of the sub¬ 
stance. Tea is properly made by infusion. When the propor¬ 
tions are not given, it is to be generally understood that 1 ounce 
is to be used to 1 pint of boiling water. 

Percolation. This is the most rapid process for extracting 
the soluble principles from vegetable substances. First reduce 
the material to a powder, then mix together by means of the 
sieve or mortar and pestle, according to the recipe for prepara¬ 
tion. Moisten the mass thoroughly with alcohol, allow it to 
stand or macerate for 12 hours in a close covered vessel, then 
place in the percolator, pouring in more alcohol and water, if in 
the recipe, and permitting it to run through the percolator. If 
the liquor which first passes through is thick and turbid, intro¬ 
duce again into the instrument. Be very careful not to have the 
powder too coarse or loosely pressed or it will permit the liquid 
to run through too rapidly; on the other hand not too fine, or it 
will offer an undesired resistance. A simple percolator can be 
made by using a large funnel with a plug of carded cotton in the 
neck, or a fine sponge will answer the purpose; then fill the 
funnel with hay or straw, a piece of cotton cloth allowed to hang 
loosely over the edge, forming a sort of bag in the interior, com¬ 
pletes the apparatus. 


MEDICAL PREPARATIONS. 


CORRECT CLASSIFICATIONS. 

Antacids are remedies for acidity of the stomach. Their 
action is purely chemical and are simply palliatives, or a relief 
for the time being. Dyspepsia and diarrhoea are the principle 
affections for which they are employed. The alkalies are the 
principles antacids. Ammonia, carbonate of lime, washing 
soda and magnesia come under this head. 

Antiseptics are medicines used for preventing putrifaction. 
Among them are boracic acid, carbolic acid, powdered charcoal, 
creosote, nitric a cid and chloride of lime. 




































































' '1 





THE DRUGGIST. 17 

Anthelmintics are medicines which destroy or expel worms 
from tne stomach and intestines. Among them are calomel, 
kousso. male fern, oil of turpentine, pink root, pumpkin seeds, 
santonin and worm seed. 

Astringents.— These are substances which contract and 
strengthen the animal fibres. Alder alum, birch, blackberry 
root, sumach, tannic acid and wintergreen are valuable for this 
purpose. 

Absorbents stimulate those vessels and glands which concur 
in the exercise of absorption. They carry off poisonous or irri¬ 
tant substances, are used in diarrhoea and vomiting and are 
chiefly included in antacids and cathartics. 

Alteratives. —Medicines which change the morbid or un¬ 
healthy action of the system. This class is largely included in 
emetics and tonics. 

Anodynes.— Preparations used for the relief of pain. In¬ 
cluded under the head of cerebro-spinants. 

Antiartbrities.— Medicines which subdue an influence in 
the blood wuich gives rise to rheumatism, gout, or diseases of 
the joints. They are classified under the head of antacids, 
cathartics and tonics. 

Anticonvulsives correct convulsive disorders dependent 
upon blood deterioration and nervous debility. Embraced in 
tonics and cerebro-spinants. 

Antiemetics. —Medicines which prevent vomiting. They 
will be found among stimulants and cerebro-spinants. 

Antiperiortics have an influence over diseases which have 
a periodic tendency, such as malarial fevers. This class is 
largely included in tonics. 

Antiphlog'istics counteract all inflammatory processes; are 
used in inflammatory fevers, etc. Many medicines of this class 
will be found under the head of emetics, cathartics, diaphoretics, 
diuretics and refrigerants. 

Antiscorbutics.— Medicines which counteract blood deteri¬ 
orations caused by scurvy. These are embraced in tonics. 

Antispasmodics antagonize spasms and allay nervous irri¬ 
tation. Included in emetics and cerebro-spinants. 

Cathartics are medicines which exercise a strong action 
upon the bowels. They are divided into two kinds: the exces¬ 
sive and the moderate, or the purgative and the drastic. Among 
others are aloes, blue flag, calomel, castor oil, prunes, rhubarb, 
rochelle salts, senna sulphur and may apple or mandrakes. 

Cerebro-Spinants are of that class which affect the brain 
and spinal cord. They are either paralysers, stupefaciants or 
intoxicants, and care should be exercised in their use. Among 
them are to be found, aconite, alcohol, belladonna, bromide of 


W 


zwnjnyzs 

QJPNwoq r* 




























































\vr< 


18 



DEPARTMENT I. 


potash, camphor, chloral, hydrate, chloroform, cocaine, hops, 
morphia, 
rian, etc. 


morphia, opium, strychnia, sulphuric ethei*, tobacco, va 


Carminatives.— Medicines having a spicy smell, an agree¬ 
able odor and a soothing effect upon the bowels; used with pur¬ 
gatives, they prevent griping. They are mentioned among 
stimulants. 


Cbologog-ues stimulate the action of the liver and increase 
the flow of bile. They belong to the class entitled cathartics. 

Deliriants. —Substances having a sedative effect over the 
heart and circulation. They are mentioned among the cerebro* 
spinants. 

Demulcents are a class of soothing medicines, used in colds 
or obstinate coughs, to shield the passages from the cold air, or 
to protect the coating of the stomach fi’om the action of corro¬ 
sive or irritating acids, poisons, etc. They are also used to save 
the mucous membrane of the urinary organs from the arid ac¬ 
tion of the water in certain affections of the kidneys and bladder; 
are used either by the mouth or in the form of an injection. 
Among them are included arrowroot, gum a.rabic or gum acacia, 
gum tragacanth, Iceland moss, Irish moss, licorice, marshmal¬ 
low and slippery elm. 

Diaphoretics. —These are medicines which exercise almost 
exclusive action on the skin, producing perspiration. The use 
of diaphoretics is indicated in nearlv all diseases accompanied 
by fever and a dry skin, particularly in febrile and pectoral 
affections. Catnip, citrate of potash, sage, sassafras and sweet 
spirits of nitre are reliable medicines of this class. 

Diluents. —These are preparations emploj 7 ed to quench 
thirst, dilute and make thin the thickened blood and cool the 
fevered system. Tea, barley water, water gruel and similar 
articles are the most common diluents after pure water. The 
copious use of diluents is recommended In all acute inflamma¬ 
tory diseases not of a congestive character. 

Diuretics act upon the kidneys, and produce an increased 
flow of urine from the bladder. There are few diseases where 
medicines of this class are not of great benefit, and in dropsy 
they become paramount. Uva ursi, carrots, balsam of copaiba, 
cream of tartar, dandelion, juniper berries, onions, parsley, ace¬ 
tate of potassa, tar and the infusion of watermelon seeds are 
peculiarly adapted for diuretics. 


Emetics are of that class of drugs which produce vomiting 
and are of vast benefit in cases of poisons. They should never 
be given to persons disposed to apoplexy or a tendency to rush 
of blood to the head: women in pregnancy should refrain from 
the use of them. Warm or tepid water is a reliable emetic; 
ipecac, lobelia, mustard and tartar emetic are others. 


l f v> 


\ 


M % 





Emmenagogues will promote the menstrual discharge when 
either restrained or suspended, and are few in number, ergot 














































/ I t1 






and madder being the only drugs which exercise a direct influ¬ 
ence on the uterus. There are a number, however, which act 
upon the general system, producing the effect by constitutional 
treatment. Cotton root, iron, mather root, saffron, pennyroyal 
and savine are among the articles in common use. 

Emolients are medicines which soften the skin when ap¬ 
plied externally. They diminish the pain of inflamed parts and 
aid the suppuration process. They owe their virtue to the 
moisture they contain. The mode of applying emolients is by 
poultice, oftenest made from flaxseed or meal. Most of the de¬ 
mulcents are emolients when applied externally, slippery elm 
being an instance of this character. 

Epispastics are substances which produce blistering or irri¬ 
tating action on the skin. Principally used are cantharides, 
mu-stard and cayenne. 

Escliarotics.— These are caustic medicines used to eat off, as 
it is popularly called, fungoid growths or excessive granula¬ 
tions, or what is known as proud flesh. Burut. alum, iodine, 
lunar caustic, mercurial caustic, nitric acid caustic and zinc 
caustic are among the reliable escharotics. 

Expectorants increase the secretion of the tracheal and 
bronchial mucous. Vapors are the only agents that can act di¬ 
rectly upon the organs affected, those that are taken into the 
stomach acting only in an indirect manner. The inhaling of 
the vapor of warm' water simply mixed with vinegar is very 
useful in this way. Ammonia, balsam of tolu, garlic and syrup 
of squills are used as expectorants. 

Febrifuges have the power of checking fever. They are ■ 
found principally among diaphoretics and diuretics; also to 
some extent among cathartics, emetics and refrigerants. 

Hcemostatics, when taken internally, contract the blood 
vessels and check hemorrhage. They are included in astringents. 

Hypnotics are medicines which produce sleep. They are 
included under cerebro-spinants. 

Eaxatives are similar to cathartics, but their action is 
milder. 

Narcotics.— Poisonous substances acting principally upon 
the brain, either as a sedative or a stimulaut. See cerebro- 
spinants. 

Nervines.— Medicines which act upon the nerves, quieting 
nervous excitement. Embraced in cerebro-spinants. 

Nutritives.— Medicines which possess the quality of nourish¬ 
ing. They are largely included in tonics and stimulants. 

Refrigerants.— These are named from the cooling effects on 
the surface of the body produced by their use. They are em¬ 
ployed in cases of high vascular action, as in fevers unaccom¬ 
panied with typhoid symp oms. Although sedative in their gen¬ 
eral impression, some of them, as antimony, produce a local 




auna 

c;lZ/5\ 



ll 03Dr*oO<?r 

























































20 


DEPARTMENT I. 


stimulant effect upon some of the organs. Acetic acid, veget¬ 
able acids, antimonial wine, borax, citric acid, muriatic acid and 
orange are all refrigerants. 

Rubifacients. —These are medicines which produce inflam¬ 
mation of the skin when applied externally. The indications 
for their use and general application are much the same as in 
epispastics. The latter are" preferred where a slow stinnilant 
effect is to be produced, the former where the effect is to be quick 
and transitory. Cayenne, mustard and croton oil are well- 
known rubifacients. 

Sialag-og-ues are a class of medicines which produce a quick 
flow of saliva, principal among which is the extract of jaborandi. 

Sedatives have a calming effect on the nervous system. Em¬ 
braced in cerebro-spinants. 

Stomachics.— Medicines which improve the stomach and 
appetite. They are included in stimulants and tonics. 

Sudorifics produce a moist condition of the skin. Included 
m diaphoretics. 

Stimulants.— These are agents which produce a quickly dif¬ 
fused and transient increase of vital energy and force of action 
m the heart and arterial system. Sesqui carbonate of ammonia, 
aniseed, benzoic acid, cayenne pepper, cod liver oil, coriander, 
corrosive sublimate, ginger, myrrh, pancreatin, valerian and 
V lrginia snake root come under the head of stimulants. 

Tonics.— These are a class of medicines which gradually and 
permanently increase the tonicity and general tone of the sys¬ 
tem; strengthening and invigorating it when weakened and de¬ 
bilitated. increasing the appetite, assisting the digestion and 
thus building up the entire system. Angelica, arsenic, black 
cahosh, boneset, burdock, chamomile, cinchona or Peruvian 
bark, golden seal, elecampane, iron, pepsin, quinine, sarsapa¬ 
rilla and wild cherry are all in the class of tonics. 


HOW TO PREPARE DECOCTIONS AND INFUSIONS. 

When the disease for which the preparations are intended is 
not mentioned refer to “Classification of Medical Preparations ” 
where will be stated the class or character of the remedy. 

Aider, Decoction of. Bark of common alder 1 ounce, water 
20 ounces; boil to 16 ounces. Dose, 2 ounces to be taken every 
4 hours. J 

^fusion.—Hickory ashes 1 pound, wood soot u 
pound boiling water y 2 gallon. Let them stand 24 hours, then 
niter through a cotton cloth. Dose, wineglassful 3 times daily. 
A good remedy for dyspepsia with acidity. An antacid. 

Arnica, Decoction of. Flowers of arnica montana 1 ounce, 
water 3 pints; boil to 1 quart, filter and add of syrup of ginger 3 






















































THE DRUGGIST. ' 21 

ounces. Dose, 1 to 2 fluid ounces every 2 or 3 hours. In aphonia, 
paralysis of the voluntary muscles, rheumatism, ague, etc. 

Barley, Decoction of. Pearl barley (washed clean) 1 ounce; 
boil for 20 minutes in 15 ounces of water, and strain. This is 
used as a demulcent in fevers, consumption, etc. It is slightly 
laxative. It this is objectionable, add a few drops of laudanum. 

Blood Root, Infusion of. Blood root y 2 ounce, boiling water 1 
pint. Is used as a stimulant an emetic. Dose for stimulant or 
alterative, 1 teaspoonful 3 times daily: as an emetic 1 or 2 
tablespoonfuls every hour until vomiting is produced. 

Blue Flag-, Infusion of. Pulverized root of blue flag l / 2 ounce, 
boiling waver 1 pint; steep 2 hours and filter. Dose, teaspoonful 
with 10 drops of tincture of capsicum or cayenne once in 2 hours 
until its laxative or diuretic effects are experienced by the 
bowels or kidneys. 

Boneset or Thoroughwort, infusion of. Boneset and 
sage of each y 2 ounce, cascarilla 1 dram, boiling water 1 y 2 pints, 
infuse until cold, then strain. In hectic fever a wineglass of this 
efficient remedy administered every hour until nausea and per¬ 
spiration are indm s been highly recommended in in¬ 
fluenza. 

Bucliu, Infusion of. Buchu 1 ounce, boiling water 1 pint; 
let stand for two hours in a tightly closed vessel, then strain. 
Used in affections of the kidneys and bladder. A superior 
diuretic. Dose, 1 to 2 ounces twice daily. 

Bran, Decoction of. 1. Bran % pound, water 1)4 pints; boil 
to 1 pint. In diabetes; and sweetened with sugar as a demul¬ 
cent and laxative drink for cough and sore throat. 2 . Bran 1 
quart, water 1 y 2 gallons; boil 5 minutes, and add cold water 
enough to bring to proper temperature. Use as an emolient 
foot bath. 

Capsicum or Cayenne Pepper. Infusion of. Powdered 
capsicum y 2 ounce, boiling water 1 pint. Dose, y 2 fluid ounce. 

Cascarilla, Infusion of. Cascarilla in coarse powder 1 ounce, 
boiling water (distilled) 10 ounces; infuse for 1 hour in a closed 
vessel, then strain. Dose, 1 to 2 ounces, usually combined with 
carbonate of soda and tincture of cascarilla 3 times daily. An 
excellent remedy for dyspepsia, debility and diarrhoea. 

Chamomile, Infusion of. Chamomile flowers y 2 ounce, boil¬ 
ing water 10 ounces; infuse for 15 minutes and strain. This is 
tonic, bitter, stomachic and emetic; drink cold. It is an emetic 
when warm. Dose as stomachic, 1 to 3 ounces; as an emetic, 5 
to 10 ounces. 

Coffee, Decoction of. Ten drams of raw coffee berries boiled 
in 8 ounces of water down to 5 ounces. Give in 3 doses during 
the intermission of intermittent fever. 

Cotton Root, Decoction of. Inner part of the root of the 
cotton plant 4 ounces, water 1 quart; boil to 1 pint. Dose, 1 


































































22 


DEPARTMENT I. 


wineglassful occasionally as an eminenagogue. or every 30 or 40 
minutes to produce uterine contraction, for which purpose it is 
said to be as effectual as ergot of rye. 

Dandelion, Infusion of. Bruised root of dandelion 2 ounces, 
boiling water 1 pint; steep two hours and strain. Dose, a wine- 
glassful 3 times a day. It is a tonic, resolvent and stimulant. 

Elecampane, Decoctioh of. Elecampane root 34 ounce, 
water 1 pint; boil a few minutes and straiu. Tonic and expec¬ 
torant, and in some cases diuretic and diaphoretic. Dose, 1 
wineglassful every hour or two. 

Elm Bark, Infusion of- Steep 1 ounce of slippery elm bark 
bruised and sliced in 1 pint of boiling water for two hours in a 
closed vessel, then strain. Use freely as a drink in coughs and 
kidney affections, and in inflammatory diseases of the bowels. 

Ergot, Decoction of. Ergot of rye 1 dram, water 6 fluid 
ounces; boil 10 minutes and strain. Dose. 34 every half hour 
until the whole is taken, as a parturifacient. 

Fern Root, Decoction of. Dried fern root 1 ounce, water 1 
pint; boil to 16 fluid ounces and strain. Dose, wineglassful, 
fasting until it excites slight nausea. As a vermifuge, more 
particularly for tape worm. 

Figs, Decoction of. Pigs chopped 1 ounce, water 1 pint; boil 
and strain. Demulcent and pectoral taken freely as a drink. 

Flaxseed, Infusion of. Flaxseed 1 ounce, boiling water 1 
pint; let it stand for 2 hours and then strain. Useful in inflam¬ 
matory diseases of the lungs and affections of the kidneys. The 
addition of a tablespoonful of cream of tartar, sufficient lemon 
peel or of lemon juice, with sugar to sweeten to taste, improves 
this remedy, and increases its action upon the kidneys. 

Hoarhound, Infusion of. The leaves 1 ounce, boiling water 
1 pint, steep 2 hours, then strain. Given in wineglassful doses. 
Demulcent, pectoral, a popular remedy in coughs, colds, hoarse¬ 
ness, etc.; taken freely. 

Hops, Infusion of. Hops 6 drams, boiling distilled water 1 
pint, steep 4 hours in a covered vessel, then strain and press. 
Tonic and anodyne. Dose, 2 fluid ounces 3 times a day. 

Iceland Moss, Decoction of. Iceland moss 1 ounce, water 
134 pints, boil for 10 minutes in a covered vessel and strain. 
Nutritious demulcent, pectoral and tonic. Dose, 1 to 4 fluid 
ounces every 3 or 4 hours, in chronic affections of the chest and 
stomach, especially pulmonary consumption, dyspepsia, old 
coughs, dysentery and chronic diarrhoea. 

Irish Moss, Decoction of. Carrageen or Irish moss 1 ounce, 
steep in 1 pint of lukewarm water for 10 minutes, then take it 
out, drain and boil in water or milk 3 pints for 15 minutes, and 
strain through linen. If twice the above weight of moss is em¬ 
ployed it forms a mucilage which, if sweetened, makes an excel¬ 
lent article of spoon diet. It is taken in the same cases as Ice- 






' 335^7 




land moss, and is often used for giving solidity in cooking blanc 
mange, etc. 

Indian Sarsaparilla, Decoction of. Root of Indian sarsa¬ 
parilla 2 ounces, water iy 2 pints; boia to 1 pint. Diuretic, alter¬ 
ative and tonic. 

Indian Sarsaparilla, Infusion of. Indian or scented sar¬ 
saparilla 2 ounces, boiline: water 1 pint, steep 2 hours; uses 
same as decoction. Dose, tablespoonful 3 times daily, which U 
the same to be used for the decoction. 

Juniper, Infusion of. 1. Prom the berries alone. As a stim 
ulan t-di are tic in dropsy. Juniper berries 2 y 2 ounces, boiling 
water 1 pint. 2. To this add when cold 10 fluid drams compound 
spirit of juniper, bitartrate of potassa 1 dram. 

Kino, Infusion of. Kino 5 drams, boiling water 1 pint. In 
diarrhoea; also, diluted in 5 times its bulk in water, as an injec¬ 
tion for chronic gonorrhoe. Dose, 1 dessert spoonful. 

Kousso, Infusion of. Kousso powdered fine y 2 ounce, boiling 
distilled water 8 fluid ounces, steep in a covered vessel for 15 
minutes, must not be strained. Dose, from 1 wineglassful to 1 
tumblerful, for tapeworm. 

Iacorice, Decoction of. Sliced licorice root iy 2 ounces, water 
16 fluid ounces; boil 10 minutes and strain. A mild demulcent. 
Dose, wineglassful taken freely. 

Marshmallow, Decoction of. Dried root and herb of marsh¬ 
mallow 4 ounces, stoned raisins 2 ounces, w-ater 7 pints; boil 
down to 5 pints, strain, allow the sediment to settle and run off 
the clear liquid. Demulcent. Dose, a cupful at pleasure, in 
coughs, colds, calculus affections and diseases of the urinary 
organs. 

Oak Bark, Decoction of. 1. Bruised oak bark 10 drams, 
water 1 quart; boil down to 1 pint and strain. 2. Oak bark l y 2 
ounces, water 1 y 2 pints; boil 10 minutes and strain. It is an 
astringent, used as a gargle in ulcerated sore throat, relaxation 
of the uvala, etc.; as a wash and as an injection in piles, leucor- 
rhoea, hemorrhages, prolapsusani, etc. 3. Bruised oak bark iy 2 
ounces, distilled water 1 pint; boil for 10 minutes and strain. 

Orange Peel, Infusion of. Dried bitter orange peel cut 
small 1 ounce, boiling water 20 ounces; infuse for 15 minutes, 
then strain. Bitter and stomachic; an excellent, effective 
remedy. 

Parsley Root, Infusion of. Made from the root of the gar¬ 
den parsley, bruised. 2 ounces, boiling water 1 pint; steep 2 
hours in a covered vessel, then strain. Dose, 2 fluid ounces. 
Aromatic, diuretic and slightly aperient. Recommended for 
dropsy. 

Pennyroyal, Infusion of. Pennyroyal 1 ounce, boiling 
water 1 pint; steep 15 minutes and strain. A remedy for nau¬ 
sea, flatulence, colds, whooping cough, hysteria, obstructed men 


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24 


DEPARTMENT I. 


struations, etc. Should not be taken during pregnancy. Dose, 
tablespoonful 3 times daily. 

Peppermint, Infusion of. Peppermint 3 drams, boiling 
water Vi pint; steep 15 minutes and strain. In flatulence, colic, 
griping and as a vehicle for other medicines. 

Peruvian Bark, Decoction of. Yellow cinchona or cali- 
saya bark, bruised, Vi ounces, distilled water 1 pint; boil for 10 
minutes in a tiglitlv-closed vessel, and when cold strain and 
pour on the bark sufficient water to make 1 pint. Dose, 1 to 2 
fluid ounces 3 or 4 times daily. As a tonic, stomachic and 
febrifuge. 

Pink Root, Infusion of. Made from Indian pink root. Is 
a vermifuge, and a good one. Pink root 1 ounce, boiling water 
1 pint; steep 20 minutes, strain and give, combined with or fol¬ 
lowed by a purge, in 1 or 2 tablespoonsful doses to a child 3 to 5 
years of age. 

Pomegranate Root, Decoction of. A wonderful remedy 
for tapeworm. Bark of the root 2 ounces, water 1 pint; boil to 
14 pint. This is the form used in India. Take a wineglassful 
half-hourly until the whole is taken; a light diet and a dose of 
castor oil having been taken the day previously. It usually ex¬ 
pels the worm in 5 or 6 hours. Look for the head, and if it does 
not appear, repeat the dose in a day or so. 

Sage, Infusion of. Made from the leaves of the common gar¬ 
den sage; Vi ounce of the leaves steeped in Vi pint boiling water 
for Vi hour, then strained, proves a fine remedy for hectic fever, 
in tablespoontul doses. Carminative and stomachic, for flatu¬ 
lence and dyspepsia; drank in water, it lessens night sweats. 

Sarsaparilla, Decoction of. Sarsaparilla sliced and bruised 
6 ounces, bark of sassafras root sliced, guaiacum wood rasped, 
licorice root bruised, of each 1 ounce, megereon sliced 3 drams; 
steep for 12 hours in 4 pints of water, then boil for 15 minutes 
and strain. Used in certain scrofulous and depraved conditions 
of the system, in syphilis, chronic rheumatism and a number of 
skin diseases. Use freely in wineglassful doses. The addition 
of one-fifth alcohol to this recipe makes it a valuable medicine. 

Savine or Savin, Infusion of. Fresh leaves or herb 1 
dram, boiling water 1 fluid ounce; infuse in a covered vessel. 
Stimulant, emmenagogue and vermifuge in chlorosis and sup¬ 
pressed menstruation, depending on torpid action of the uterine 
vessels; in chronic rheumatism, worms, etc. Dose, 1 to 2 table- 
spoonsful, cautiously administered. Should not be taken dur¬ 
ing pregnancy. 

¥$01100, Infusion of. 1. Senna 1 ounce, ginger sliced 30 
grains, boiled distilled water 10 ounces; infuse 1 hour and 
strain. Dose, 1 to 2 ounces. 2. Senna 15 drams, bruised ginger 
4 scruples, boiling water 1 pint; steep for 1 hour in a covered 
vessel and strain. 3. Senna lVi ounce, ginger % dram, boiling 
water 1 pint. 4 . Senna V% ounce, ginger Vi dram, boiling water 









































































V 2 pint. Purgative. It is usually given in doses of 1 to 1 y 2 fluid 
ounces, combined with 3 to 6 drams of epsom salts or other 
saline purgative under the name of “black draught.” Add 1 
grain of nitrate of potassa to each ounce to prevent spoiling in 
warm weather. 

Slippery Elm, Infusion of. Inner bark of slippery elm 1 
ounce, boiling water 16 fluid ounces; infuse for 2 hours, then 
strain. Demulcent. 

Squill, Decoction of. Squill 3 drams, juniper berries 4 
ounces, snake root 3 ounces, water 4 pounds; boil to one-half, 
strain and add of sweet spirits of nitre 4 fluid ounces. In chronic 
coughs and other chest affections, unaccompanied with active 
inflammatory symptoms. Dose, 1 to 3 fluid ounces 2 or 3 times 
daily. 

Sweet Flag-. Infusion of. Sweet flag 1 ounce, boiling water 
1 pint; steep 2 hours in a covered vessel and strain. Dose, 1 
wineglassful. An aromatic, stimulant, tonic and stomachic. 

Tansy, Infusion of. From the dried herb, or the green herb 
using twice the quantity. Tansy dried and bruised 1 ounce, boil¬ 
ing water 1 pint: steep 2 hours in a covered vessel and strain. 
Dose, 2 teaspoonsful every 4 hours. Aromatic, bitter, tonic and 
vermifuge. 

Tar, Infusion of. Wood tar 1 quart, cold water 1 gallon; stir 
with a stick for 15 minutes, then let the tar subsided strain and 
keep in well-corked jars. Taken to the extent of 1 pint daily in 
chronic catarrhal and nephritic affections; also used as a lotion 
in chronic cutaneous diseases, especially those of the scalp in 
children. 

Tobacco, Infusion of. Tobacco leaves 1 dram, boiling water 
16 fluid ounces; steep for 1 hour. Used for enemas in strangu¬ 
lated hernia or rupture, obstinate colic, etc., observing not to 
administer more than ^ata time. 

Wild Cherry Bark, Infusion of. Dry wild cherry bark 
bruised y 2 ounce (if green a small handful), cold water 1 pint; 
let it stand covered closely 24 hours and strain. Useful in nerv¬ 
ous irritability with increased action of the heart, in debilitated 
conditions of the stomach, aud in general debility following in¬ 
flammatory diseases. Dose, 1 tablespoonful 3 times a day. 

Wintergreen, Decoction of. Chimaphila (dried herb) 1 
ounce, water 1 y 2 pints; boil to 1 pint and then strain. Tonic, 
stomachic alterative and diuretic. Dose, 1 to 2 fluid ounces in 
dropsy, scrofula, debility, loss of appetite, etc., and in those 
affections of the urinary organs in which uva ursi is commonly 
given. 

Waterdock, Decoction of. Root of common waterdock 1 
ounce water 1 pint; boil for 10 minutes and strain. Dose, 2 
fluid ounces. This decoction is astringent and used as a remedy 
for scurvy and some other cutaneous diseases. It is the only 


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DEPARTMENT I. 


remedy which proves efficacious for that disease when the ulcers 
are healed and the patient is attacked with asthma. 

Note.— The decoctions and infusions herein mentioned form a 
cheap and reliable system of treatment for all diseases, can be 
easily prepared, and are always effectual. Look through them 
carefully. They will save you doctor’s bills. 



LINIMENTS, OINTHENTS. SALVES, CERATES, ETC. 

Of these external remedies liniments are thicker than watei, 
but more liquid than salves or ointments. Cerates have a 
a greater consistency than salves, but are not so pasty or as 
thick as poultices. Among those here given are many prepara¬ 
tions well known to the general public; patent medicines that 
have been on sale for years. All of these formulas are of great 
value, having been tested and found effectual. 

Aconite Ointment.— Alcoholic extract of aconite 1 dram, 
lard 2 drams; rub together carefully and thoroughly. For 
neuralgia. 

Alnm Ointment.— Alum, in very fine powder, 1 dram, lard 
1^4 ounces; mix thoroughly. For piles. 

Belladonna Liniment.— Extract of belladonna 1 dram, 
olive oil 1 ounce; stir together. Useful in rheumatism, neu¬ 
ralgia, etc. 

Benzoin Ointment.— Tincture of benzoin 2 ounces, lard 16 
ounces: melt the lard, add the tincture, stirring well. For itch 
and skin diseases.- 

Black Liniment.— Sulphuric acid 1 dram, olive oil 1 ounce, 
turpentine *4 ounce; mix the acid with the oil slowly. When 
cold add the turpentine. A fine counter irritant. Effectual in 
swelling of the joints. Apply twice a day on lint. 

Calomel Cerate.— Calomel 1 dram, spermaceti cerate 7 
drams. In herpes and other skin diseases. 

Camphor Liniment. —Camphor ounce, olive oil, 2 fluid 
ounce; dissolve the camphor in the oil. For rheumatism and 
neuralgia. 

Carbolic Acid Ointment.— Camphor 1 ounce, carbolic 
acid in crystals 1 ounce, simple cerate 14 ounces; mix. Anti¬ 
septic, stimulant and detergent. 

Centaur Liniment.— Oil spike 1 ounce, oil wormwood 1 
ounce, oil sassafras 1 ounce, oil organum 1 ounce, oil cinnamon 
1 ounce, oil cloves 1 dram, oil cedar 1 dram, sulphuric ether 1 
ounce. aqua ammonia 1 ounce, tincture opium 1 ounce, alcohol 
1 gallon; mix. This is an excellent liniment, and good when¬ 
ever a liniment is needed. 

Cucumber Ointment.— Oil of sweet almonds 7 fluid ounces, 
spermaceti 18 drams, white wax 5 drams, glycerine 1 fluid 








































































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ounce, green cucumbers 4 pounds; cut the cucumbers in small 
pieces, mash in a mortar (wooden), let them stand in their own 
liquor for 12 hours, press and strain; melt the almond oil, 
spermaceti and wax together, add to it the strained liquor of the 
cucumbers, stirring constantly, so as to incorporate the whole 
together; set aside in a cool place until it becomes hard, then 
beat with a wooden spoon, so as to separate the watery portions 
of the cucumbers from the ointment; pour off the liquor thus 
obtained and mix the glycerine with the ointment without the 
aid of heat, by working it with the hands until all are thor¬ 
oughly mixed: put up in 4-ounce jars, cover with a layer of 
rose water and set aside in a cool place. This ointment is one 
of the finest preparations for the skin known to medical science, 
and thus prepared will keep for 12 months. 

J>avis’ Pain Killer.— Proof alcohol 1 quart, chloroform 1 
dram, oil sassafras 1 ounce, gum champhor 1 ounce, spirits of 
ammonia 1 dram, oil cayenne 2 drams; mix well, and let stand 
24 hours before using. 

Downers’ Salve.— Beeswax 4 ounces, opium *4 ounce, sugar 
of lead 1 ounce; melt the beeswax and rub the lead up in the 
wax, then the opium, then add 1 gill of sweet oil: mix all thor¬ 
oughly together and spread lightly on cloth. Good for burns, 
piles, etc. 

Emollient Einiment.— Camphor 1 dram, Peruvian balsam 
y 2 dram, oil of almonds 1 fluid ounce; dissolve by heat, add of 
glycerine fluid ounce, agitate well, and when cold further add 
of oil of nutmeg 15 drops. Good for chapped hands, lips, nip¬ 
ples, etc. 

Eye Ointments (the best in use).— 1. Nitric oxide of mer¬ 
cury, carbonate of zinc, acetate of lead and dried alum, of each 
1 dram, corrosive sublimate 10 grains, rose ointment 1 ounce. 
Used in chronic aphthalmia, profuse discharges, etc., usually 
diluted. 2 . Nitrate of silver 10 grains, zinc ointment 2 drams, 
balsam of peru y 2 dram. Used in ulceration of the cornea and in 
acute, purulent and chronic aphthalmia: great caution should 
be employed in its use. 3. Spermaceti ointment 1 dram, solu¬ 
tion of diacetate of lead 15 drams, nitrate of silver 2 to 10 
grains. Use as the last and in cases where direct caustic action 
is desired; the stronger ointment often occasions intense pain. 
4 . Black oxide of mercury 2 grains, spermaceti cerate and wal¬ 
nut oil, of each 1 dram. Used in chronic affections of the eye 
and eyelids, particularly in those of a syphilitic character. 5 
(Petit’s). White wax 4 ounces, spermaceti 12 ounces, olive oil 2 
pounds, white precipitate 3 ounces, oxide of zinc 4 ounces, ben¬ 
zoic acid 2 drams, sulphate of morphia 48 grains, oil of rosemary 
20 drops; melt the spermaceti, wax and olive oil together, rub 
the precipitate, zinc and benzoic acid in a portion of the warm 
mixture, add together, lastly add the rosemary, stir till cool. 
This is the finest preparation of its kind known. 

Flagg’s Instant Relief.— Oil of cloves 1 fluid dram, oil of 





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28 


DEPARTMENT 1. 


sassafras 2 fluid drams, spirit of camphor 1V 2 fluid ounces: 
mix well. 

Green Mountain Salve.— Powdered verdigris 1 ounce, oil 
of wormwood y 2 ounce, Venice turpentine y 2 ounce, oil of red 
cedar, organum, hemlock and balsam of fir, each 1 ounce, mut¬ 
ton tallow, beeswax and burgundy pitoh, each 4 ounces, resin 5 
pounds; melt the resin, pitch, beeswax, tallow and balsam to¬ 
gether, add the oils with the verdigris and other ingredients; 
mix well. Used for all sores, excoriations, chilblains, etc.; 
very fine. 

Good Samaritan Liniment.— 1 Take 98 per cent alcohol 2 
quarts, and add to it the following articles: Oils of sassafras, 
hemlock, spirits of turpentine, tincture of cayenne, catechu, 
guaic (guac) and laudanum, of each 1 ounce, tincture of myrrh 
4 ounces, oil of organum 2 ounces, oil of wintergreen l / 2 ounce, 
gum camphor 2 ounces, chloroform l l / 2 ounces. This is one of 
the best applications for internal pains. 

Hamlin's Wizard Oil. —Oil of sassafras 2 ounces, oil of 
cedar 1 ounce, gum camphor 1 ounce, sulphuric ether 2 ounces, 
chloroform 2 ounces, tincture of capsicum 1 ounce, aqua am¬ 
monia 2 ounces, oil of turpentine 1 ounce, tincture of quassia, 3 
ounces, alcohol y 2 gallon; mix, and you have a fine liniment. 

Hops Ointment.— Hops 2 ounces, lard 10 ounces. Useful 
in painful piles and cancerine sores. 

Indian Oil (Healy & Bigelow's).—Oil of sassafras 2 ounces, 
oil of cloves 1 y 2 ounces, gum camphor 4 ounces, tincture of 
myrrh 4 ounces, tincture opium (laudanum) 4 ounces, tincture 
capsicum 4 ounces, spirits of ether 4 ounces, alcohol 2 gallons, 
water 1 % gallons; mix. The above will fill 240 2-ounce vials. 
The addition of % ounce of menthol to every gallon greatly im¬ 
proves this excellent remedy. 

Iodide of Mercury Ointment.—I. White wax 2 ounces, 

lard 6 ounces; melt them together, add of iodide of mercury 1 
ounce and rub them well together. 2. Green iodide of mercury 
23 grains, lard iy 2 ounces. Useful in tubercular skin diseases, 
as a friction in scrofulous swellings and indolent granular 
tumors, and as a dressing for ill-conditioned ulcers, especially 
those of scrofulous character. ' 

Iodoform Ointment.— Iodoform 1 dram, vaseline 1 ounce; 
reduce the iodoform to a powder and add to the vaseline, heat 
until dissolved. Antiseptic; healing for all sores. 

Itch Ointment.— 1 . Unsalted butter 1 pound, burgundy 
pitch 2 ounces, spirits of turpentine 2 ounces, red precipitate, 
pulverized. 1)4.ounces; melt the pitch and add the butter, stir¬ 
ring well together, then remove from the fire and when a little 
cool add the spirits of turpentine and lastly the precipitate; stir 
until cold. 2. Alum, nitre and sulphate of zinc, of each in very 
fine powder 1)4 ounces, Vermillion y 2 ounce; mix, add gradually 
of sweet oil 24 pint; triturate, or mix together until well mixed, 
♦hen add of lard 1 pound, with oils of anise, lavender and or- 







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ganum quantity sufficient to perfume. 3. Chloride of lime 1 
dram, rectified spirits 2 fluid drams, sweet oil y 2 fluid ounce, 
common salt and sulphur, of each 1 ounce, soft soap 2 ounces, 
oil of lemon 20 drops. Cheap, effectual and inoffensive. 

King of Pain.— Alcohol 1 pint, tincture of capsicum 1 dram, 
spirits of turpentine 1 dram, gum camphor 1 ounce, sulphuric 
ether 1 ounce; mix. 

liickapoo Buffalo Salve.— Vaseline 1 pound, tallow 1 
pound, white wax 3 ounces, oxide of zinc 1 % ounces, red precip¬ 
itate \y 2 ounces, oil of cedar % ounce; melt and stir together 
until cold, then box. 

magnetic Ointment. —Elder bark 1 pound, spikenard root 

1 pound, yellow dock root 1 pound; boil in 2 gallons of water 
down to 1, then press the strength out of the bark and roots and 
boil the liquid down to y 2 gallon; add best resin 8 pounds, bees¬ 
wax 1 pound and tallow enough to soften. Apply to the sores 
etc., by spreading on linen cloth. 

magic Oil. —Sweet oil 1 gallon, oil of hemlock 2 ounces, oil 
of organum 2 ounces, chloroform 2 ounces, spirits of ammonia 

4 ounces; mix, let it stand 24 hours and it is ready for use. 
Dose, internally, 1 teaspoonful for adults. Bathe the affected 
parts well. This is a great remedy for aches and pains, rheuma¬ 
tism, neuralgia, and all nervous and inflammatory diseases. 

magnetic Toothache Drops.— Take equal parts of cam¬ 
phor. sulphuric ether, ammonia, laudanum, tincture of cayenne 
and y 8 part oil of cloves; mix well together. Saturate with the 
liquid a small piece of cotton and apply to the cavity of the dis¬ 
eased tooth, and the pain will cease immediately. 

my Own Liniment. —Take oil of cajeput 2 ounces, oil of 
spike 1 ounce, oil of sassafras 1 ounce, oil of cloves 1 ounce, oil 
of organum 1 ounce, oil of mustard y 2 jounce, tincture of capsi¬ 
cum 1 ounce, gum camphor 2 ounces, alcohol y 2 gallon. Use as 
other liniments for any ache or pain. For sore throat or hoarse¬ 
ness. saturate a towel with the liniment, place it over the 
mouth, let it remain so for 4 or 5 hours and you will be cured. 
For croup, bathe throat and chest with the liniment. Give \ 
teaspoonful of liniment in one teaspoonful of warm water every 

5 to 10 minutes until relieved. 

mustang Liniment.— Linseed oil 14 ounces, aqua ammonia 

2 ounces, tincture of capsicum % ounce, oil of organum \i ounce, 
turpentine 1 ounce, oil of mustard J4 ounce; mix. 

mustard Ointment.— 1. Flour of mustard % ounce, water 
1 fluid ounce; mix, and add of resin cerate 2 ounces, oil of tur¬ 
pentine y 2 ounce. Rubifacient and stimulant, as a friction in 
rheumatism, etc. 2. Flour of mustard 3 ounces, oil of almonds 
y 2 fluid ounce, lemon juice quantity sufficient. Used in freckles, 
sunburn, etc.; a fine preparation. 

I'ile Ointment.—1. Burnt alum and oxide of zinc, of each 
K dram, lard 7 drams. 2. Morphia 8 grains, melted spermaceti 




































































30 DEPARTMENT I. 

ointment 1 ounce: mix together until complete, then add of 
finely powdered galls *4 dram, essential oil of alrnonds 12 to 15 
drops and stir until the mass becomes hard. This is useful in 
painful piles, prolapsus, etc.; it does not soil the linen as most 
other liniments. 

Radway’s Ready Relief, or R. R. R.— Alcohol 2 pints, 
oil of sassafras 2 ounces, oil of organum 2 ounces, spirits of 
camphor y 2 ounce, tincture of opium 1 ounce, chloroform, 1 
ounce; mix. 

St. Jacob’s Oil.— Gum camphor 1 ounce, chloral hydrate 1 
ounce, chloroform 1 ounce, sulphate of ether 1 ounce, tincture 
of opium (iion-aqueous) y 2 ounce, oil of organum y 2 ounce, oil of 
sassafras )4 ounce, alcohol y 2 gallon: dissolve gum camphor 
with alcohol and then add the oil, then the other ingredients. 

Tar Ointments.—1. Tar and suet, of each 1 pcund; melt 
them together and press the mixture through a linen cloth. 2. 
Tar 5 ounces, beeswax 2 ounces, melt together and stir the mix¬ 
ture briskly until it concretes. 3. Tar y 2 pint, yellow wax 4 
ounces. A detergent application in ringworm, scald heads, 
scabby eruptions, foul ulcers, etc.; at first dilute with one-half 
its weight of lard or sweet oil. 


LOZENGES, TROCHES, TABLETS, COUGH DROPS, WORIT 
WAFERS, ETC. 

Are made of finely-powdered ingredients, mixed with gum or 
something of like character to make them firm. Great care 
must be taken to have the ingredients finely powdered and care¬ 
fully mixed. They can be rolled out the same as bread or pastry 
dough and cut into shape with a thimble having the small end 
open. This is the simplest method. 

Rrown‘s ISroneliial Troches. —Take y 2 pound of pulver¬ 
ized extract of licorice. % pound of pulverized sugar, 2 ounces 
each of pulverized cubebs and gum arabic, and y 2 ounce of pul¬ 
verized extract of conium. 

Caffeine Lozenges.— Each lozenge contains *4 grain of 
caffeine and y 2 grain of citric acid. Useful in hemicrania, hypo¬ 
chondriasis, etc. 

Calomel Lozenges.— Each lozenge contains 1 grain of cal¬ 
omel. Alterative, etc.; they afford a simple way of introducing 
mercury into the system. During their use sait food and acid 
liquors should be avoided. When given for worms, they should 
be followed in a few hours by a purge. 

Carbolic Acid Lozenges.— Carbolic acid 350 grains, gum 
arabic 220 grains, refined sugar 12)4 ounces, mucilage 1 ounce, 
distilled water sufficient quantity to make 1 pound; divide into 
350 lozenges, and finish as with benzoic acid lozenges. 






















THE DRUGGIST. 


31 


Catechu Lozenges. — 1 . Extract of catechu 4 ounces, sugar 
16 ounces, mucilage of gum tragacanth sufficient quantity; 
make into 10-grain lozenges. 2. Magnesia 2 ounces, powdered 
catechu 1 ounce, sugar 13 ounces, mucilage of gum tragacanth 
(made with cinnamon water) sufficient quantity to mix. These 
are taken in diarrhoea, in relaxation of the uvula, in irritation 
of the larynx and to disguise a fetid breath; the one containing 
magnesia is also sucked in dyspepsia, acidity and heartburn. 

Charcoal Lozenges.— Prepared charcoal 4 ounces, white 
sugar 12 ounces, mucilage sufficient quantity to mix. Used in 
diarrhoea, cholera, dyspepsia, etc. 

Ching's Yellow Worm Lozenges. —Fine sugar 28 pounds, 
calomel, washed with spirits of wine, 1 pound, saffron 4 drams; 
dissolve gum tragacanth sufficient to make a paste, make decoc¬ 
tion of the saffron in 1 pint of water, strain and mix with it. 
Each lozenge should contain 1 grain of mercury. 

Chlorate of Potassa Lozenges. — 1 . Each lozenge con¬ 
tains iy 2 grains of chlorate of potassa. Used in phthisis, sore 
throat, etc. Dose, 6 to 12 a day. 2. Chlorate of potassa, in 
powder, 3,600 grains (8)4 ounces), refined sugar, in powder, 25 
ounces, gum acacia, in powder, 1 ounce, mucilage 2 ounces, 
distilled water 1 ounce, or a sufficiency; mix the powders, and 
add the mucilage and water to form a proper mass; divide into 
720 lozenges. 

Chloride of Gold Lozenges.— Each lozenge contains 1-40 
grain of neutral chloride of gold. Dose, 2 to 4 daily, in scrofula, 
cancer, etc. 

Clove Lozenges.— Cloves, powdered along with sugar, 2 
ounces, or essential oil 1 fluid dram to each pound of sugar. 
Carminative and stomachic, also used as a restorative after 
fatigue: added to chocolate to improve its flavor and sucked to 
sweeten the breath. 

Cough Lozenges.— Dissolve licorice in water to the con¬ 
sistency of thin molasses, add to the dough, made of gum water 
and sugar, and work it well; also work in at the same time 2 
ounces of ipecacuanha, 1 dram acetate of morphia (morphine). 1 
ounce oil of aniseed, 1 ounce powdered tartaric acid: mix thor¬ 
oughly, roll out and cut. 

Croton Oil Lozenges.— Croton oil 5 drops, powdered starch 
40 grains, white sugar 1 dram, chocolate 2 drams; divide into 
30 lozenges: 5 or 6 generally prove cathartic. 

Cubebs Lozenges.— Cubebs 2 drams, balsam of tulu, 6 
grains; mix, and add extract of licorice 1 ounce, syrup of tulu 1 
dram, powdered gum sufficient quantity; divide into 10-grain 
lozenges. One of these allowed to melt gradually in the mouth, 
is said to alleviate the obstruction in the nose in coryza. 

Ginger Lozenges.— Best unbleached Jamaica ginger and 
gum arabic, of each, in very fine powder, 1*4 ounces double re¬ 
fined lump sugar 1 pound, rose water, tinged with saffron, suf- 























































































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ficient quantity. A still finer quality may be made by using an 
.equivalent proportion of essence of ginger instead of tbe powder; 
inferior qualities are prepared with coarser sugar, to which 
some starch is often added. Ginger lozenges are carminative 
and stomachic, and are useful in flatulency, loss of appetite, etc. 

Hemlock Confection.— Fresh hemlock leaves beaten up 
with an equal weight of sugar. Dose, 10 to 20 grains, as a pill, 
2 or 3 times daily, where the use of hemlock is indicated. The 
confection of other narcotic plants may be made in the 
same way. 

Iceland IHoss Chocolate.— Simple chocolate 32 parts, 
sugar 29 parts, dried jelly of Iceland moss 11 parts; mix. 

Indian Worm Killer (Healy & Bigelow’s).—Kousso flow¬ 
ers % pound, scainmony 4 ounces, santonin 4 ounces, pulverized 
jalap 4 ounces, pulverized sugar 12 pounds, oil of anise 2 ounces., 
cornstarch 4 pounds, gum tragacanth 8 ounces; dissolve the 
gum in water of sufficient quantity to make thick mucilage, make 
an infusion of the kousso flowers, then mix the other ingredients 
with the gum. adding the kousso infusion, making a stiff mass; 
mix with the cornstarch and knead thoroughly; when well 
mixed roll out into sheets and cut with a round die or thimble 
about the size of 1 cent coin; the sheets should be quite thin. 
Dose, Vi to 1 lozenge twice daily. 

Opium Eozenges.—1. Opium 2 drams, tincture of tulu V 2 
ounce; triturate together; add of powdered sugar 6 ounces, ex¬ 
tract licorice and powdered gum acacia of each 5 ounces; mix 
and divide into 10 grain lozenges. Each lozenge contains 1-6 to 
1-7 opium. Used to allay tickling cough and irritation of the 
fauces, and as an anodyne and hypnotic. 2. Opium in fine 
powder 2 drams, extract of licorice, gum arabic and sugar, of 
each 5 ounces, oil of aniseed, V 2 fluid dram, water sufficient 
quantity; divide into 6 grain lozenges. 

Pomegranate Electuary. —1. From the root bark 1 dram, 

asafoetida y 2 dram, croton oil 6 drops, consene of roses 1 ounce. 
Dose, 1 teaspoonful night and morning. 2. Extract of the root 
bark 6 drams, lemon juice 2 fluid drams, linden water 3 fluid 
drams, gum tragacanth, sufficient quantity to make an electuary. 
Take Vi at once; the remainder in an hour. Both are given in 
tapeworm. 

Squill Honey.— 1. Thick clarified honey 3 pounds, tincture 
of squill 2 pounds; mix. 2. Dried squill 1 ounce, boiling water 
% pint; infuse 2 hours, strain and add of honey 12 ounces, and 
evaporate to a proper consistence. 

Tannic Acid Eozenges.— 'Tannic acid 360 grains; tincture 
of tulu, V 2 ounce, refined sugar 25 ounces, gum acacia 1 ounce, 
mucilage 2 ounces, distilled water 1 ounce: dissolve the tannic 
acid in the water; add first the tincture of tulu, previously 
mixed with the mucilage, then the gum and the sugar, also pre¬ 
viously well mixed: form the whole into a proper mass and 


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THE DRUGGIST. 33 

divide into 720 lozenges, and dry them in a hot-air chamber with 
a moderate heat. Dose, 1 to 6 lozenges. 

Tulu Lozenges.— 1 . Sugar 4 pounds, balsam of tulu 3 drams, 
or the tincture of the balsam 1 fluid ounce, cream of tartar 6 
ounces, or tartaric acid 1 dram; dissolve gum sufficient to make 
a paste. These may also be flavored by adding % ounce of 
vanilla and 60 drops of the essence of amber. The articles must 
be reduced to a fine powder with the sugar; they are pectoral 
and balsamic. 2. Balsam of tulu and rectified spirit of each 1 
ounce; dissolve and add of water 2 fluid ounces, heat the mix¬ 
ture in a water-bath and filter. Make a mucilage with the 
filtered liquor and gum tragacanth 80 grains, add of sugar 16 
ounces; make a mass and cut it into lozenges. 

Vermifuge Lozenges.— Santonin 60 grains, pulverized 
sugar 5 ounces, mucilage of gum tragacanth sufficient to make 
into thick paste, worked carefully together, that the santonin 
shall be evenly mixed throughout the whole mass; then, if not 
in too great a hurry, cover up the mortar in which you have 
rubbed them, and let them stand from 12 to 24 hours to temper, 
at which time'they will roll out better than if done immediately: 
divide into 120 lozenges. Dose, for a child 1 year old, 1 lozenge 
night and morning; of 2 years, 2 lozenges; of 4 years, 3 lozenges; 
of 8 years, 4 lozenges; of 10 years or more, 5 to 7 lozenges. In 
ail cases to be taken twice daily, and continuing until the worms 
are discharged. 

Wistar’s Cough Lozenges.— Gum arabic, extract of licorice 
and sugar, of each 2 l A ounces, powdered opium 1 dram, oil of 
aniseed 40 drops; for 60 lozenges. Dose, 1 three or four times a 
day. 

Worm Lozenges.- Most of the advertised nostrums under 
this name have a basis of calomel, and require to be followed by 
a purge a few hours afterwards. 1. Ethereal extract of worm- 
seed 1 dram, jalap, starch and sugar, of each 2 drams, mucilage 
of gum tragacanth sufficient quantity; divide in 60 lozenges. 2. 
Wormseed 1 ounce, ethiops mineral and jalap, of each 3 drams, 
cinnamon 2 drams, sugar 7 ounces, rose water sufficient quan¬ 
tity. 


PLASTERS AND POULTICES. 

Alum Poultice.— Powdered alum 1 dram, whites of two 
eggs: shake them together until they form a coagulum. Ap¬ 
plied between the folds of soft linen for chilblains, sore nipples, 
inflamed eyes, etc. 

Antiseptic Poultice.— Barley flour 6 ounces, powdered 
Peruvian bark 1 ounce, water sufficient quantity; boil and when 
cool add powdered camphor 1 dram. 

Boynton's Adhesive Plaster.— Yellow resin 1 ounce, lead 
plaster 1 pound; melted together. Recommended for bad legs 
and other like affections. 







































































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Belladonna Plaster.— Soap plaster 6 ounces; melt it by 
the heat of a water bath; add extract of belladonna 3 ounces and 
keep constantly stirring the mixture until it acquires a proper 
consistence. 



Cancer Plasters.— 1 . Wax plaster 1 ounce, extract of hem¬ 
lock 1 dram, levigated arsenious acid % dram. 2. Extract oi 
hemlock 1 ounce, extract of henbane 14 ounce powdered bella¬ 
donna 1 dram, acetate of ammonia of sufficient quantity to form 
a plaster. Should be used with great tnutiui* 

Cantharides Plaster.— Melt together yellow wax and suet 
each 714 pounds, lard 6 ounces, and resin 3 ounces; while cooling 
sprinkle in and mix thoroughly 1 pound very finely powdered 
Spanish flies. 

Court Plaster.— This plaster is a kind of varnished silk, and 
its manufacture is very easy. Bruise a sufficient quantity of 
isinglass, and let it soak in a little warm water for 24 hours. 
Expose it to heat over the tire until the greater part of the water 
is dissipated, and supply its place by proof spirits of wine, which 
will combine with the isinglass. Strain the whole through a 
piece of open linen, taking care that the consistence of the mix¬ 
ture shall be such that when cool it may form a trembling jelly. 
Extend a piece of black or flesh-colored silk on a wooden frame, 
and fix it in that position by means of tacks or twine. Then 
apply the isinglass, after it has been rendered liquid by a gentle 
heat, to the silk with a brush of fine hair (badger’s is the best). 

As soon as this coating is dried, which will not be long, apply a 
second, and afterward, if the article is to be very superior, a 
third. When the whole is dry, cover it with two or three coat¬ 
ings of the balsam of peru. This is the genuine court plaster. 

It is pliable and never breaks, which is far from being the case 
with spurious articles sold under the same name. 

I.ead Plaster.— Take 1 pounds of very finely powdered 
semivitrified oxide of lead, 1 quart of olive oil and 14 pint of 
water; boil together over a gentle tire, stirring constantly till 
the oil and litharge unite and form a plaster; if the water nearly 
all evaporates before the process is completed, add a little boil¬ 
ing water. This is a useful plaster for ulcers, burns, etc. 

Linseed Meal Poultice.—' To boiling water V% pint, add 
gradually, constantly stiri’ing, 414 ounces of linseed or flaxseed 
meal, or a sufficient quantity to thicken. Used to promote the 
ripening or suppuration of boils, tumors, etc. A little oil or 
fresh lard should be added and some smeared over the surface 
as well to prevent the poultice hardening. 

Pitch Plaster.— Burgundy pitch 6 parts, yellow resin 8 
parts, yellow wax 3 parts, lard 7 parts, turpentine 1 part, palm 
oil 1 part, linseed oil 1 part; melt together. , - 

Poorman’s Plaster.— Melt together, beeswax 1 ounce, tar 
3 ounces, resin 3 ounces; spread on paper or muslin. 

Spice Plaster.— Take of powdered cloves 1 ounce, ground 




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II III. 


THE DRUGGIST. 35 

cinnamon 1 ounce, ground allspice 1 ounce, ground black pepper 
2 ounces, flour 3 or 4 ounces, or enough to mix; mix in a paste 
with vinegar and spread on muslin. This is a stimulating 
plaster; if a more powerful one is desired, substitute cayenne 
for black pepper. 

Strengthening Plaster.— Lead plaster 24 parts, white 
resin 6 parts, yellow wax and olive oil, of each 3 parts, red oxide 
of iron 8 parts; let the oxide be rubbed with the oil and the 
other ingredients added, melted; mix the whole well together. 
This plaster, after being spread over leather, should be cut into 
strips 2 inches wide and strapped firmly around the joint. 

Warming Plaster. —Take of. any blistering plaster 1 part, 
burgundy pitch 14 parts; mix them by means of moderate heat. 
This plaster is a stimulant, slightly irritating the skin, and is 
useful in coughs, colds, whooping cough, sciatica and other 
local pains. 


SYRUPS. 


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Syrups are saturated solutions of sugar in water, or sugar 
dissolved in a quantity of water sufficient to make the substance 
a mass; are used as a vehicle for many medicines, most cough 
medicines being prepared in this form, also many other prepara¬ 
tions. The proper quantity of sugar tor making syrups is 2 
pounds avoirdupois to every pint of water. Only the very best 
sugar should be used, and either distilled water or filtered rain 
water made the agent for dissolving same. Tne process should 
be accomplished over a gentle fire, too much heat producing de¬ 
composition; do not keep on fire any longer than is necessary 
to make a clear, transparent syrup. All ingredients to be added 
in the preparation of any medicine should be first filtered and 
made perfectly clear. 

Almond.—1. Sweet almonds 1 pound, bitter almonds 1 
ounce; blanch, beat them to a smooth paste and make an emul¬ 
sion with barley water 1 quart, strain; to each pint add of sugar 
2 pounds and a tablespoonful of orange flower water, put the 
mixture in small bottles and keep in a cool place; a little brandy 
assists in the preservation. 2. Sweet almonds 8 ounces, bitter 
almonds 2 ounces; blanch, beat in a marble mortar with a 
wooden pestle to a paste, adding gradually of water 16 fluid 
ounces, of orange flower water 3 fluid ounces; after straining 
through a flannel, dissolve 3 pounds of sugar in each pint of 
the mixture. 

Cathartic Syrup.— Best senna leaf 1 ounce, butternut (the 
inner bark of the root, dried and bruised) 2 ounces, peppermint 
leaf Vi ounce, fennel seed Vt ounce, alcohol y 2 pint, water 1 y a 
pints, sugar 2 pounds; put all into the spirit and water except 
the sugar and let stand for 2 weeks, then strain, pressing out 
from the dregs, adding the sugar and simmering over a gentle 
fire a few minutes only to dissolve the sugar. For chronic con- 



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stipation, sick headache, etc.; a superior remedy. Dose, 1 
tablespoonful once a day or less often if the bowels become too 
loose; if griping is caused, increase the fennel seed and pepper¬ 
mint leaf. 

Fuller’s Cough Syrup.— Take 6 ounces comfrey root and 
12 handsful plantain leaves; cut and beat them together well, 
strain out the juice, then with an equal weight of loaf sugar boil 
to a syrup. Dose, 1 to 2 tablespoonsful 3 or 4 times per day. 

Gum Syrup.— Dissolve pale and picked gum arabic in an 
equal weight of water by a gentle heat, add the solution to 4 
times its weight of simple syrup, simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, re¬ 
move the scum and cool. This is a pleasant demulcent; the ad¬ 
dition of 1 or 2 fluid ounces of orange flower water to each pint 
greatly improves it. 

Gum Traganth.— Gum traganth 1 ounce, water 32 ounces; 
macerate for 48 hours, press through a linen cloth and mix the 
mucilage with 8 pounds of syrup heated to 176 0 Fahrenheit; 
strain through a coarse cloth. 

Hall’s Balsam for the Fungs.— Fluid extract of ipecac 
Yz ounce, fluid extract of squills 1 ounce, chloroform ounce, 
wine of tar 1 ounce, tincture of opium 1-5 ounce, fluid extract of 
mullen 1 ounce, syrup enough to make 1 pint. 

Hall’s Honey of Hoarhound and Tar.— Wine of tar 1 
ounce, fluid extract of hoarhound 1 ounce, tincture of opium 1 
dram, syrup of orange peel V% ounce, honey 3 ounces, syrup 
enough to make 1 pint. 

Hive Syrup.— Put 1 ounce each of squills and seneca snake 
root into 1 pint of water; boil down to one-half, then strain; 
then add % pound of clarified honey containing 12 grains of tar¬ 
trate of antimony. Dose, for a child, 10 drops to 1 teaspoonful 
according to age. This is an excellent remedy for croup. 

Hoarhound.—1. Dried hoarhound 1 ounce, hoarhound 
water 2 pounds; digest in a water bath for 2 hours, strain and 
add of white sugar 4 pounds. 2. White hoarhound 1 pound, 
boiling water 1 gallon; infuse for 2 hours, press out the liquor, 
filter and add of sugar a sufficient quantity. This is a fine rem¬ 
edy for coughs and diseases of the lungs. Dose, a tablespoonful 
at pleasure. 

Horseradish.— Scraped horseradish 1 ounce, hot water 8 
fluid ounces; mix, let stand until cold, strain and dissolve in 
the liquor twice its weight of sugar. Dose, 1 dram frequently in 
hoarseness. 

Ipecac.—1. Mix 2 ounces of fluid extract of ipecac in 30 
ounces of simple syrup. 2. Fluid extract of ipecac 1 fluid ounce, 
glycerine 1 fluid ounce, simple syrup 14 fluid ounces; first mix 
the glycerine with the fluid extract and then add the syrup. 

'Orange Peel.—1. Tincture of orange peel 1 part, syrup 7 
narts; mix. Dose, 1 to 2 drams. 2. Fresh orange peel 18 





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ounces, sugar 18 pounds, water of sufficient quantity to make 
syrup. 

Piso's Consumption Cure.— Tartar emetic 4 grains, tinc¬ 
ture tolu y* ounce, sulphate morphia 4 grains, fluid extract 
lobelia 2 drams, chloroform 1 dram, fluid extract cannabes 
indica 2 drams, essence spearmint 10 drops, hot water 8 ounces, 
sugar 4 ounces; dissolve the morphia and tartar emetic in hot 
water and add the resi. 

Rhubarb.— Take 1 y 2 ounces of bruised rhubard, % ounce each 
of bruised cloves and cinnamon, 2 drams bruised nutmeg, 2 pints 
diluted alcohol, 6 pints of syrup; macerate the rhubarb and 
aromatics in the alcohol for 14 days and strain; then by gentle 
heat evaporate the liquor to 1 pint, and while hot mix with it 
the syrup previously heated. 

Rose.— 1, Dried leaves of provence roses 8 ounces, double rose 
leaves 6 ounces, water 1 pint, sugar 4 pounds; pour the water 
on the leaves when nearly boiling into a glazed earthenware 
vessel; cover it quite close and let it remain in a warm place for 
1 day, then strain. The leaves of the damask rose are purgative. 
2. Dried petals of the damask rose 7 ounces, boiling water 3 
pints; macerate for 12 hours; filter and evaporate to 1 quart, 
and add white sugar 6 pounds, and when cool add rectified 
spirits 5V 2 fluid ounces. 

Sarsaparilla. —Sarsaparilla 15 ounces, boiling water 1 gal¬ 
lon; macerate for 24 hours; boil to 2 quarts and strain; add of 
sugar 15 ounces and boil to a syrup. 

Senna.—1. Take of Senna 3 y 2 ounces, bruised fennel seed 10 
drams, boiling water 1 pint; macerate for 6 hours with a gentle 
heat, then pour out the liquid through a linen cloth and dissolve 
in it of manna 3 ounces; next add this solution to molasses 3 
pounds, which has been boiled almost to the consistency, of 
candy; stir them well together. 2. Senna 4 ounces, boiling 
water 24 fluid ounces; infuse, strain, add of molasses 48 ounces, 
and evaporate to a proper consistency. This is an aperient. 
Dose, 1 to 4 drams. 

Squills.—1. Dissolve 24 Troy ounces of sugar in 1 pint of 
vinegar of squills with gentle heat, and strain while hot. 2. 
Vinegar of squills 3 pints, white powdered sugar 7 pounds; dis¬ 
solve by gentle heat. 

Tar (Boschee’s German Syrup).—Wine of tar 2 ounces, fluid 
extract squills 1 ounce, tincture opium 2 drams, fluid extract 
sanguinarie 2 drams, syrup of sugar 8 ounces. Mix. 

Wild Cherry.— Moisten 5 ounces of wild cherry bark, coarse¬ 
ly powdered, with water, and let it stand for 24 hours closely 
covered; then pack it firmly in a glass percolator and gradually 
pour water on it until 1 pint has passed through , and dissolve in 
this 28 Troy ounces of crushed sugar. 


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88 


DEPARTMENT I. 


TINCTURES, ESSENCES AND ELIXIRS. 

Tinctures are alcoholic solutions of the active medicinal pro* 
perties of the substances from which they are prepared. They 
are generally used in liniments and other medicines, and are ob¬ 
tained by percolation and filtration. See Percolation and Filtra¬ 
tion. 

Essences are somewhat similar, while Elixirs are compounds 
of various medicinal substances, being mixtures of aromatic 
wines and tinctures mixed with sugar. They are popular, be¬ 
cause palatable. Dose. 1 to 2 teaspoonfuls. 

Among the following formulas will be found many superior 
remedies, including beef, iron and wine, and many others: 

Aconite Tincture. — 1 . Powdered root 1 part, alcohol to per¬ 
colate 8 parts; macerate for 48 hours with three-quarters of the 
alcohol agitating occasionally: pack in a percolator and let it 
drain, then pour on the remaining spirits. When it ceases to 
drop press the marc and add alcohol to make up 8 quarts. Dose, 
5 to 15 minims 2 or 3 times a day. 2. Take of aconite root, 
coarsely powdered, 15 ounces, rectified spirits 1 quart; macerate 
for 7 days, press and filter. 

Aloes Tincture.— Socotrine aloes 1 part, extract of licorice 
3 parts, proof spirits (alcohol) 4o parts; macerate 7 days, press 
and wash the marc with spirits to make 40 parts. Dose, 1 to 2 
drams. 

Angelica Tincture.— Dried angelica root 1 ounce, proof 
spirits 6 ounces; digest and filter. Dose, 1 dram. 

Aniseed Essence.— Oil of anise 1 part, rectified spirits 4 
parts; mix. Use as a stimulant, aromatic and carminative. 
Dose, 10 to 20 minims. Used also to flavor liquors and to make 
aniseed water. 

Arnica Tincture.— Flowers of arnica montana 1 y 2 ounces, 
spirits, specific gravity 900,1 pound; digest for 8 days and strain 
with expression. Dose, 10 to 30 drops. Used in diarrhoea, dys¬ 
entery, gout, rheumatism, paralysis, etc. 

Aromatic Elixir.— Orange peel 4 drams, coriander seed 2 
drams, angelica seed 2 y 2 drams, cochineal 1 dram, alcohol 12 
ounces, water 10 ounces, glycerine 5 ounces, syrup 6 ounces; re¬ 
duce the solid ingredients to a moderately fine powder and pack 
firmly in a percolator, mix the other ingredients and percolate 2 
pints, adding water enough to make this amount. 

Aromatic Tincture.— Cinnamon 4 ounces, cardamon 1 
ounce, cloves 1 ounce, galangal root 1 ounce, ginger 1 ounce, all 
in coarse powder; proof spirits 3 lbs. 2 ozs.; macerate 8 days and 
strain. 

Bark and Protoxide of Iron Elixir.— Elixir of calisaya 

lo ounces, crystalized sulphate of iron 128 grains, ammonia 
and nitric acid, of each sufficient; dissolve the sulphate of iron 
in boiling water and add to it enough ammonia to precipitate 






































































THE DRUGGIST. 


39 


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the oxide of iron, wash the precipitate tooroughly^n^onShlv’to 
water, collect it on a muslin strainer and press it j h °*° t ions 
expel the moisture; then add to it cautiously and by por tions 
enough nitric acid mixed with 3 times its volume of water to re- 

dissolve the precipitate; a slight excess ° f acidy? r d of caUsava, to 
filter the solution and mix it with sufficient elixir of caiisaya to 

complete 1 pint. 

Beef and Iron Wine.— Sherry wine 14 ounces, simple syrup 
2 ounces, extract of beef 4 drams, ammonia-citrate of iron 123 
grains, tincture of fresh orange peel 30 minims; mix and filter. 

Belladonna Tincture.—1. The dried leaves, in coarse 
powder, 1 part, proof spirits 20 parts; macerate 48 hours in 15 
parts of the spirits, agitating occasionally; pack m a percolator, 
and when it ceases to drop add the remaining spmts, let it 
drain, wash and press the marc, filter and malm up ^ parts. 
Dose, from 5 to 20 minims. 2. Dried leaves of belladonna 4 
ounces, proof spirits 1 quart; macerate for 7 days, press and 
filter. . . 

Benzoin Tincture.-l. Benzoin 2 ounces, rectified spirits 
10 ounces; digest for 8 days, frequently Jr 

Benzoin 8 parts, prepared storax 6 parts, balsam of tulu 3 parts, 
socotrine aloes 1 % parts, rectified spirits 80 parts; ™£erate 7 
days, filter, and wash the marc with spirits to make up 80 pa • 
Dose *4 to 1 dram, triturated with mucilage oi yolk of e ?&- **• 
Gum’ benzoin, coarsely powdered, 3 % ounces, prepared st ^rax 
2 % ounces, balsam of tulu 10 drams, socotrine or hepatic aloes 
in coarse powder. 5 drams, rectified spirits 1 quait, maceiate 
with frequent agitation for 7 days, and strain. 

Bitter Elixir. -3-Extract of buckbean, extract of orange peel* 
of each 2 parts, peppermint water and alcohol (68 per cent), of 
each 16 parts, spirits of ether (made of 3 parts alcohol and 1 pait 
ether) 1 part; dissolve and mix. # . 

Bucliu Tincture. —Buchu, bruised, 1 part, proof spirits 
parts; macerate for 48 hours with % parts of the; & Tirits: pack 
in a percolator and let it dram, then pour ^n the rest of the 
spirits; when it ceases to drop, press and wash the maic, filter 
and make up in 8 parts. Dose, 1 to 2 drams. 

Calisara Barit Elixir. —Take 8 ounces of caiisaya bark, 4 
ounces each of orange peel, cinnamon and coriander seed, A 
ounce each anise seed, caraway seed, and cardamons; reduce all 
to a moderate powder, and percolate with 4 pints of alcohol, 
diluted with 12 pints of water, and add 2 pints of simple syrup. 

Camphorated Tincture of Opium.—1. Opium, in coarse 
Dowder 40 grains, benzoic acid 40 grains, camphor 30 grains, 
oil of anise \ dram, proof spirits 20 ounces; macerate 7 days, 
strain wash the marc with spirits and filter 20 ounces. Dose, 
l?to 16 minims 2. Camphor 50 grains, powdered opium and 
b?nVoio acw of each 73 griins. oil ot aniseed 1 fluid dram, proof 
spirits 1 quart; macerate for 7 days and filter. 


































































40 


DEPARTMENT I. 


Cantharides Tincture.— Cantharides, in coarse powder, 1 
part, proof spirits 80 parts; macerate, agitating occasionally, 
for 7 days in a closed vessel; strain, press, filter, and add suffici¬ 
ent proof spirits to make up 80 parts, Dose, 5 to 20 minims. 

Capsicum Tincture.—1. Capsicum, bruised, 1 part, recti¬ 
fied spirits 27 parts; macerate 48 hours with % of the spirits, 
agitating occasionally; pack in a percolator and let it drain, 
then pour on the remaining spirits; as soon as it ceases to drop, 
wash the marc with spirits to make up 27 parts. Dose, 10 to 20 
minims. 2. Capsicum, bruised, 10 drams, proof spirits 1 quart; 
digest 14 days. Dose, 10 to 60 drops in atonic dyspepsia, 
scarlet fever, ulcerated sore throat, etc., it is also made into a 
gargle. 

Capsicum and Cantharides Tincture.— Cantharides, in 
fine powder, 10 drams, capsicum 1 dram, diluted alcohol 1 pint; 
mix and digest for 10 days, and filter. This is a stimulant and 
rubefacient. Used as a counter irritant in deep-seated, painful 
affections. 

Capsicum and Veratria Tincture. —Dissolve 4 grains of 

veratria in 1 ounce of concentrated tincture of capsicum. 

Cascarilla Essence. —Cascarilla 12 ounces, proof spirits 1 
pint; proceed either by digestion or percolation; the product is 
8 times the strength of the infusion of cascarilla. 

Catechu Wine.— Tincture of catechu 1 part, red wine 12J4 
parts; mix, and after a few days filter. 

Catechu Tincture.— Pale catechu in coarse powder 2*4 
parts, cinnamon bruised 1 part, proof spirits 20 parts; macerate 
for 7 days with agitation, strain, press and filter, and add spirits 
to make 20 parts. Dose, y 2 to 2 drams. 

Celery Elixir (Celery Compound).—For increasing, pre¬ 
serving and producing virility; a cure for sexual debility or 
loss of manhood. Juniper berries, angelica root, lovage root, of 
each 1 part, alcohol 12 parts orange flower water and rose 
of each 4 P arts - s P r ing water of sufficient quantity; dis¬ 
till 20 parts, and mix the distillate with 12 parts of clarified 
honey. Dose, 1 to 2 drams. 

Celery Essence —Very fine; used for flavoring. 1. Celerv 
seed, bruised or ground, ± l A ounces, alcohol 1 pint, digest 14 
days and strain. 2. Celery seed 7 ounces, alcohol 1 pint; digest 
as before. 

Centuury Wine.— Centaury, orange peel, extract of blessed 
thistle gentian, myrrh and cascarilla, of each 1 dram, sherry 
wine 2 parts. J 







































































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r. 


THE DRUGGIST. 

ginger, of each 2V 2 drams, alcohol 1 quart; digest for 7 days. 
Cordial, aromatic and stomachic. 

Clove Essence. —Cloves <i l A ounces, proof spirits % pint, 
water pint; digest 1 week and strain. 

Colcliicuin Tincture. —1. Colchicum seeds, bruised 5 
ounces, aromatic spirits of ammonia 1 quart: digest for 7 days, 
then press and filter. Dose. 20 drops to 1 fluid dram, m gout, 
etc. 2. Colchicum seeds, bruised, 1 part, proof spirits 8 parts; 
macerate 48 hours with 6 parts of the spirits, agitating occa¬ 
sionally; pack in a percolator and let it drain, then pour on the 
remainder of the spirits; when it ceases to drop, wash the marc 
with spirits to make 8 parts. Dose, 15 to 30 minims. 

Colchicum Wine.— An excellent remedy for acute rheuma¬ 
tism, gout and other inflammatory diseases. 1. Colchicum corns, 
dried and sliced, 4 parts, sherry wine 2Q parts; macerate 7 days 
and strain. Dose, 20 to 30 minims. 2. Dried corns of meadow 
saffron 8 ounces, sherry wine 1 quart; macerate 7 days and 
strain. This is a powerful sedative and purgative. Dose, y 3 to 
1 fluid dram. 

Cough Elixir. —Extracts of blessed thistle and dulcamara, 
of each 1 dram, cherry laurel water 1 fluid dram, fennel water 1 
fluid ounce. Dose, 1 to 2 teaspoonsful 3 or 4 times a day; amost 
useful remedy in nervous coughs. 

Cubebs Tincture.— Cubebs, in powder, 1 part, rectified spir¬ 
its 8 parts; macerate 48 hours with 6 parts of the spirits, agi¬ 
tating occasionally; pack in a percolator and let it drain, pour 
on the remaining ^spirits, and when it ceases to drop, wash the 
marc with spirits to make up 8 parts. Dose. 1 to 2 drams. 

Digitalis Tincture.— Digitalis, recently dried and in fine 
powder, 4 ounces, diluted alcohol a sufficient quantity; moisten 
the powder with 2 fluid ounces of the alcohol, pack it firmly in a. 
conical percolator and gradually pour diluted alcohol over it> 
until 2 parts of tincture are obtained. It is stimulant, but aft¬ 
erwards sedative, diuretic and narcotic. In overdoses it occa¬ 
sions vomiting, purging, vertigo, delirium and death. Used in 
inflammatory diseases, phthisis, dropsies, palpitation of the 
heart, etc.; ‘in mania, epilepsy and asthma. Dose, 10 to 20 
drops. 

Elecampane Tincture.— Powdered elecampane 4 ounces, 
proof spirits 1 pint; macerate for 15 days. Tonic, deobstruent 
and expectorant. Dose. '-/ 2 to 2 fluid drains, in dyspepsia, palsy, 
uterine obstructions, etc. 

Ergot Tincture.— Ergot (ground in a coffee mill) 214 ounces, 
proof spirits 1 pint; digest for 7 days, strain and filter. Dose, 1 
teaspoonful. Used to excite the action of the uterus in labor. 

Iodine Tincture.— Iodine V 2 dram, iodide of potassium M 
dram, rectified spirits 20 drams: dissolve and filter through 
filter paper. Dose, 5 to 20 minims. An excellent applicatior 
for the throat in diphtheria. 


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42 


DEPARTMENT I. 


Iron Wine.— Ammonia, tartrate of iron 1 % drams, sherry 
1 pint; dissolve. Dose, 1 to 5 fluid drams, as a mild chalybeate. 

Lavender Tincture. —English oil of lavender 90 minims, 
English oil of rosemary 10 minims, cinnamon, bruised. 150 
grains, nutmeg 150 grains, red sandalwood 800 grains, rectified 
spirits 40 ounces: macerate the cinnamon, nutmeg and red 
sandalwood in the spirits for 7 days, then press out and strain: 
dissolve the oils in the strained tincture and add sufficient spir¬ 
its to make 40 ounces. Dose, Vi to 2 drams. 

Lobelia Tincture.— Lobelia, dried and bruised, 1 part, spir¬ 
its of ether 8 parts; macerate 7 days, press and strain. Dose, 10 
to 30 minims, as an antispasmodic. 

Myrrh Tincture.— Gum myrrh 2 ounces, alcohol 1 quart; 
steep 4 days, then filter. 

Opium Tincture (Laudanum).—Powdered opium 3 ounces, 
alcohol 1 quart; macerate 7 days, filter. 

Pepsin, Bismuth and Strychnia Elixir.— For dyspep¬ 
sia, gastralgia, general debility and lack of tone in the general 
system. Citrate of bismuth and ammonia 256 grains. Hall’s so¬ 
lution of strychnia 2 ounces, warm water 1 ounce, elixir of pep¬ 
sin 13 ounces; dissolve the bismuth in the water by the aid of a 
few drops of aqua ammonia. Dose, 1 teaspoon ful. 

Quinine Elixir.— Sulphate of quinine 128 grains, citric acid 
20 grains, aqua ammonia of sufficient quantity: simple elixir to 
make 1 pint. Take 2 portions of elixir: in one dissolve the citric 
acid, in the other dissolve the quinine by rubbing in the mortar; 
mix the solutions and add the balance of the elixir: lastly, add 
aqua ammonia, a few drops at a time, until the mixture is clear: 
take care to add no more ammonia than is necessary to clarify 
the solution, else the ammonia will precipitate the quinine. 
Used in febrile diseases and intermittent and remittent fevers. 
Dose. 1 to 2 teaspoonsful. 

Squill Tincture.— Dried squill, bruised, 1 part, proof spir¬ 
its 8 parts; macerate 48 hours with 6 parts of the spirits, agi¬ 
tating occasionally: pack in a percolator, when it ceases to drop, 
press, filter and add spirits to make 8 parts. Dose, 15 to 30 
minims. 

Tolu Tincture. —Balsam of tolu 1 part, rectified snirits 8 
parts: dissolve, filter and make up to 8 parts. Dose, 15 to 30 
minims, in syrup, for coughs and colds. 

Tonic Tincture. —Excellent. Peruvian bark, bruised, 3 
ounces, orange peel, bruised. 2 ounces, brandy 2 pints; infuse 10 
days, shake the bottle every day, pour off the liquor and strain. 
Dose, 1 teaspoonful in a wineglass of water, when languid. 

Valerian Tincture.— Valerian, in moderately fine powder, 
4 troy ounces, diluted alcohol of sufficient quantity; moisten the 
powder with 1 fluid ounce of the alcohol, macerate for 7 days, 
strain and filter, using 1 fluid ounce of alcohol to make up 




















































THE DRUGGIST. 


43 


quantity needed. This is stimulant and antispasmodic, used in 
hysteria, etc. 

Wild Cherry Bark Tincture.— Wild cherry bark, bruised, 
2 ounces, proof spirits 1 pint; digest 14 days, press and hlter. 
Dose, 1 tablespoonful. 


POPULAR PATENT MEDICINES. 


TONICS, ALTERATIVES, CARMINATIVES, BITTERS, 
DIURETICS, STOflACHlCS, ETC. 

In this list will be found the correct formulas for the principal 
patent medicines now on the market. The formulas are guar¬ 
anteed genuine, and the list is a good one. Please read carefully 
and follow directions closely. 

Aver’s Cherry Pectoral. —Take 4 grains of acetate of moi- 
phia 2 fluid drams of tincture of bloodroot, 3 fluid drams each 
of antimonial wine and wine of ipecacuanha, and 3 fluid ounces 
syrup of wild cherry. Mix. 

August Flower.— Powdered rhubarb 1 ounce, golden seal 

ounce aloes l dram, peppermint leaves 2 drams, carbonate of 
potash 2 drams, capsicum 5 grains, sugar 5 ounces, alcohol 3 
ounces water 10 ounces, essence of peppermint, 20 drops; 
powder the drugs and let stand covered with alcohol and water, 
equal parts, for 7 days; filter and add through the filter enough 
diluted alcohol to make 1 pint. 

Blood Purifier—B. B. B.— Fluid extract burdock 1 ounce 
fluid extract of sarsaparilla 1 ounce, fluid extract yellow dock 1 
ounce, fluid extract senna 1 oz., syrup 8 ozs., alcohol 2 ozs.; mix. 

Castoria.— Pumpkin seed 1 ounce, cenria leaves 1 ounce, 
rochelle salts 1 ounce, anise seed l / 2 ounce, bicarbonate soda 1 
ounce, worm seed y 2 ounce; mix and thoroughly rub together in 
an earthen vessel, then put into a bottle and pour over it 4 
ounces water and 1 ounce alcohol, and let stand 4 days, then 
strain off and add svrup made of white sugar, quantity to make 
1 pint, then add l A ounce alcohol drops, and 5 drops wintergreen. 
Mix thoroughly, and add to the contents of the bottle, and take 
as directed. 

Canada Catarrh Cure.— Carbolic acid 10 to 20 drops, vase¬ 
line 1 to 2 ounces; mix, and use with an atomizer 3 or 4 times 
per day. Try this, it is excellent. 

Cough Drops.- 1 Tincture of aconite 5 drops, tincture of 
ascelpias 1 dram, glycerine 2 ounces, syrup of wild cherry; mix, 
and take a teaspoonful every 40 minutes until relieved. 

Drops of Fife.— Gum opium 1 ounce, gum kino, 1 dram, 





















































44 


DEPARTMENT I. 


gum camphor 40 grains, nutmeg, powdered, y 2 ounce, French 
brandy 1 pint; let stand from 1 to 10 days. Dose, from 30 to 40 
drops for an adult; children, half dose. This is one of the most 
valuable preparations in the Materia Medica , and will m some 
dangerous hours, when all hope is fled, and the system is racked 
with pain, be the soothing balm which cures the most dangerous 
diseases to which the human body is liable—flux, dysentery and 
all summer complaints. 

Godfrey’s Cordial.— Tincture of opium 6 ounces, molasses 
4 pints, alcohol 8 ounces, water 6 pints, carbonate of potash 4 
drams, oil of sassafras cut with alcohol 1 dram; dissolve the 
potash in water, add the molasses, heat over a gentle fire till it 
simmers, remove the scum, add the other ingredients, the oil 
dissolved in the alcohol. 

Harter’s Iron Tonic.— Calisaya bark 2 ounces, citrate of 
iron 2 ounces, gentian 2 ounces, cardamon seed 2 ounces, syrup 
2 ounces, alcohol 2 ounces, water 8 ounces; mix. 

Hood’s Sarsaparilla.— Fluid extract of sarsaparilla 1 
ounce, fluid extract of yellow dock 1 ounce, fluid extract of poke 
root y 2 ounce, iodide of potash 14 ounce, syrup of orange peel 1 
ounce, alcohol 4 ounces, syrup enough to make 1 pint. 

Hop Bitters.— Hops 4 ounces, orange peel 2 ounces, carda¬ 
mon 2 drams, cinnamon 1 dram, cloves 14 dram, alcohol 8 ounces, 
sherry wine 2 pints, simple syrup 1 pint, water sufficient; grind 
the drugs, macerate in the alcohol and wine for 1 week, perco¬ 
late and add enough syrup and water to make 1 gallon. 

Hostetter’s Bitters.— Gentian root, gi-ound, y 2 ounce, cin¬ 
namon bark y 2 ounce, cinchona bark, ground, y 2 ounce, anise 
seed y 2 ounce, coriander seed, ground, y 2 ounce, cardamon seed 
14 ounce, gum kino 14 ounce, alcohol 1 pint, water 4 quarts, 
sugar 1 pound; mix and let stand for 1 week, pour off the fluid,’ 
boil the drug for a few miuutes in 1 quart of water, strain off and 
add first the fluid and then the sugar and water. 

Indian Sagwa.- Gentian y 2 pound, seneca 14 pound, cubebs 
l / 2 pound, rhei 14 pound, salts y 2 pound, aloes 14 pound, bicar¬ 
bonate of soda 214 pounds, senna 14 pound, anise 14 pound, cori¬ 
ander 14 pound, pareivabrava % pound, guaiac % pound, licorice 
114 pounds, alcohol 3 quarts, water 6 gallons; steep 10 days, 
percolate and bottle. The above will fill 65 12-ounce bottles. 

Injection Brou.— Water 4 ounces, nitrate of silver 20 
grains, tincture of opium 14 ounce, sulphate of bismuth and hy- 
drastis, 2 ounces; mix. 

Jayne’s Expectorant.— Syrup of squills 2 ounces, tinct¬ 
ure of tolu 1 ounce, spirits of camphor 1 dram, tincture of digi¬ 
talis 1 dram, tincture of lobelia 1 dram, wine of ipecac 2 drams 
tincture of opium 2 drams, antimonia 2 grains; mix. 

Jayne’s Tonic Vermifuge.— Santonine 20 grains, fluid 
extract of pink root 3 drams, fluid extract of senna 2 drams. 











[fk v 



THE DRUGGIST. 

°V nces ’ ?y ru P 2 ounces; mix. Dose, 1 table¬ 
spoonful night and morning. 

of^,Srn^vn!*M d -~ Ext ^L of Pky tol acca 1 ounce, fluid extract 
x-infhnvvMn 1 !/ i,? UnCG fl i ?^ lde of Potash 1 ounce, fluid extract of 
/ 2 2 u “ ce * fluid extract of Culiver's root 1 ounce. 
1 °, u ? ce ’ tincture of cinnamon 14 ounce, tinct- 

water 36 ouSS^mi 1 ° UUCe ’ alcoho1 4 ounces ’ su gar K pound, 

dram* W, u rUp *~ Fowler,s sototion of arsenic 2 
Quaver s root 1 ounce, syrup of orange peel 4 ounces 
simple syrup 12 ounces: mix, then add cinchona 40 grains dis¬ 
solved in aromatic sulphuric acid; shake to mix well/ 

ure°n Z f^^ Fragrant.-Tincture of soap bark 2 ounces, tinct¬ 
ure of myirh 1 di am, glycerine y 2 ounce, water ly, ounces es¬ 
sence of cloves 10 drops, essence of wintergreen 10 drops, tinct- 
uie of cochineal enough to color; mix. Accompanying the 
above is a powder composed of prepared chalk, orris root, car¬ 
bonate magnesia, of equal parts; mix. 

Extrac* of Herbs.-Fluid extract of blue flag; 
~C di ops, fluid extract of Culiver s root 20 drops fluid extract of 
stalmga _0 drops, fluid extract of poke root 20 drops fluid ex- 
fln a m 0 °i t S Ut i er i lut . 20 dr °I ,s - fluid extract of dandelion 20 droS, 
? V d e xt t a ct of pimce pine 10 drops, fluid extract of mandrake 
o diops, fluid extract oi gentian 5 drops, fluid extract of calcium 
extrac i hlack cohose 30 drops, tincture of aloes 
30 drops, tincture of capsicum 10 drops, tincture of sassafras 30 
borax 1 dram, salt % drams, syrup 3 ounces, water 3 

Succws A Items (McDade’s).-Fluid extract of stniimria 1 
9H'' ce ; ^uid extract of sarsaparilla 1 ounce, fluid extract of Phy¬ 
tolacca decandra y 2 ounce, fluid extract of lappa minor 1 ounce 
fluid extract of xanthoxylon y 2 ounce, syrup 14 ounces’ mix' 
Dose, 1 teaspoonful 3 times a day. J p ounces, mix. 

hoImSugh 2 Sake 1 pto“' tmcture 01 ca P sloum 'A ounce, alco- 

JSf®?"J e , rU VWormseed 2 ounces, valerian, rhu- 
baib, pink loot, white agaric, of each IJ4 ounces; boil in suf- 
Sf y i e i d 3 ! flirts of decoction and add to it 30 drops 

vi!aH f ri^ nsy ai ? d drops °f oil of cloves; dissolve in a quart 
of rectified spirits. Dose, 1 tablespoonful at night. 

Tippecanoe Bitters.-Cardamon seed 2 ounces 
nutmeg 1 dram, grains of paradise i dram, cloves 1 ounce cin¬ 
namon Z ounces, ginger 1 ounce, orange-peel 1 ounce, lemon peel 
1 ounce alcohol 1 gallon, water 1 gallon, sugar 3 pounds’ mix 

ma d ke e 4ganons.° r 7 days and filter * Tlaen add enou 6 h water to 




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46 


DEPARTMENT X. 


Warner’s Safe Cure.— Take of smart weed 4 pounds, boil 
for 1 hour with 1 gallon of soft water, adding warm water to 
supply waste by evaporation; then strain off and add acetate 
potash 4 ounces, sugar 4 pounds. Boil again till sugar is dis¬ 
solved. then add alcohol 8 ounces, and flavor with oil of winter- 
green cut with alcohol. 

Wakefield’s Blackberry Balsam.— Blackberries crushed 
2 pounds, boiling water 4 ounces, sugar 4 ounces, Jamaica 
ginger 4 grains, alcohol 2 ounces; mix and add syrup enough to 
make 16 ounces. 


TRIED REMEDIES. 

These remedies are not classified, but are efficient for the vari¬ 
ous troubles for which they are recommended. In this list will 
be found a little bit of everything, such as corn cures, tapeworm 
expellers, cough drops, salves, liniments, ointments, pile reme¬ 
dies, pills, etc. Read the list over carefully. 

Eye Water.— Table salt and white vitriol, each 1 teaspoonful; 
heat them on earthen dish until dry; now add to them soft 
water l / 2 pint, whito sugar 1 teaspoonful, blue vitriol, a piece as 
large as a common pea. Should this be too strong add a little 
more water. Apply to the eye 3 or 4 times a day. 

To Remove Tapeworm.— Let the patient miss 2 meals, 
give 2 teaspoonfuls powdered kamala. Should the bowels not 
move within 2>4 hours give another teaspoonful of the Kamala. 
You may follow this in 2 hours by from y 2 to 1 ounce of castor 
cil. This is a positive cure for tapeworm, it will not make the 
patient sick. In buying the drug be sure and get kamala, not 
camellea. Kamala is in appearance like quite red brick dust, 
and is nearly tasteless, whereas camellea is of a yellowish color. 

A Sure Cure for Smallpox.— It is claimed that the follow¬ 
ing is a sure and never-failing cure for smallpox: One ounce 
cream of tartar dissolved in a pint of boiling water, to be drank 
when cold, at intervals. It can be taken at any time, and is a 
preventative as well as a curative. It is known to have cured in 
thousands of cases without a failure. 

For Itch.— Calamine (precipitated) 2 drams, oxide of zinc 2 
drams, carbolic acid 30 drops, lime water to make 8 ounces. 
Wash and apply with muslin. 

For Lt ncorrhoea.- 1 Tannic acid 1 ounce, glycerine 4 ounces. 
Dissolve tannic acid in glycerine with gentle heat. One teaspoon- 
ful to a pint of tepid water, and inject twice a day. 

Sure Cure for Diplitheria. —Sulpho-calcine and glycerine 
1 ounce of each; mix. Apply to throat with a mop every 3 or 4 
hours. 

Onanism.— Fluid extract salix nigra (aments). Teaspoonfnl 
3 times daily. 





































































THE DRUGGIST. 


41 


Tetter Ointment. —One ounce spirits of turpentine, 1 ounce 
red percipitate in powder, 1 ounce burgundy pitch in powder. 1 
pound hog's lard; melt all these ingredients over a slow fire 
until the ointment is formed; stir until cold. Spread on a linen 
rag and apply to the parts affected. 

A Sure Cure for Piles,— Confection of senna 2 ounces, 
cream of tartar 1 ounce, sulphur 1 ounce, syrup of ginger enough 
to make a stiff paste; mix. A piece as large as a nut is to be 
taken as often as necessary to keep the bowels open. One of the 
best remedies known. 

Healing Salve.— Lard 1 pound, resin y 2 pound, sweet elder 
bark y 2 pound; simmer over a slow fire 4 hours, or until it forms 
a hard, brown salve. This is for the cure of cuts, bruises, boils, 
old sores and all like ailments; spread on cotton cloth and apply 
to the parts affected. 

Specific Inflammatory Rheumatism.— Saltpetre, pul¬ 
verized, 1 ounce, sweet oil 1 pint; bathe the parts affected 3 
times a day with this mixture and a speedy cure will be the 
result. 

Another Salve. —Sheep’s tallow 1 ounce, beeswax 1 ounce, 
sweet oil y 2 ounce, red lead y 2 ounce, gum camphor 2 ounces; fry 
all these together in a stone dish, continue to simmer for 4 
hours, spread on green basswood leaves or paper and apply to 
the sore. 

Cough Drops.— Tincture of aconite 5 drops, tincture of as- 
celpias 1 dram, glycerine 2 ounces, syrup of wild cherry; mix, 
and take 1 teaspoonful every 40 minutes until relieved. 

Cure for Sore Throat in All Its Different Forms.— 
Cayenne pepper 2 ounces, common salt 1 ounce, vinegar y 2 pint; 
warm over a slow fire and gargle the throat and mouth every 
hour. Garlic and onion poultice applied to the outside. Castor 
oil 1 spoonful, to keep the bowels open. 

Ointment of Stramonium.— Stramonium leaves 1 pound, 
lard 3 pounds, yellow wax y 2 pound; boil the stramonium leaves 
in the lard until they become pliable, then strain through linen; 
lastly, add the wax previously melted and stir until they are 
cold. This is a useful anodyne application in irritable ulcers, 
painful hemorrhoids and in cutaneous eruptions. 

Cathartic Pills. —Extract of colacinth, in powder, y 2 ounce, 
jalap, in powder, 3 drams, calomel 3 drams, gamboge, in pow¬ 
der, 2 scrunles; mix these together and with water form into 
mass and roll into 180 pills. Dose, 1 pill as a mild laxative, 2 
in vigorous operations. Use in all billious diseases when purges 
are necessary. 

Lozenges for Heartburn.— Gum arabic 1 ounce, licorice 
root, pulverized. 1 ounce, magnesia % ounce, add water to make 
Into lozenges; let dissolve in mouth and swallow. 

Another Cough Cure.— Good. Take the white of an egg 





















































V®), 



DEPARTMENT L 


and pulverized sugar; beat to a froth. Take 1 tablespoonful 
every hour for 3 or 4 hours. 

Warts and Corns.— To cure in 10 minutes. Take a small 
piece of potash and let it stand in the open air until it slacks, 
then thicken it to a paste with pulverized gum arabic, which 
prevents it from spreading where it is not wanted. 

Tetter Ointment.— Spirits of turpentine 1 ounce, red pre¬ 
cipitate, in powder, 1 ounce, burgundy pitch, in powder, 1 ounce, 
hog’s lard 1 pound; melt all these ingredients over a slow fire 
until the ointment is formed; stir until cold; spread on a linen 
rag and apply to the parts affected. 

Diphtheria.— Take a clean clay tobacco pipe, put a live coal 
in it, then put common tar on the fire and smoke it, inhalingand 
breathing back through the nostrils. 

Said to Be Good for Grip.— Peroxide of hydrogen (me¬ 
dicinal) is a marvelous remedy in the treatment of grip or influ¬ 
enza. This medicine should be diluted with water and adminis¬ 
tered internally, and by sniffing through the nostrils or by 
spraying the nostrils and throat. The good results from this 
treatment, which has never been known to fail of producing a 
speedy cure, are due to the destruction of the microbe upon 
which this disease depends. The remedy is simple and within 
the reach of everybody, and can easily be tested. ( « 

T.uiig Medicine.— Take black cohosh y 2 ounce, lobelia 14 
ounce, canker root % ounce, blackberry root % ounce, sarsapa¬ 
rilla 1 ounce, pleurisy root % ounce; steeped in 3 pints of water. 
Dose, 1 tablespoonful 3 times a day, before eating. Sure cure 
for spitting blood. 

Toothache Drops.— Four ounces pulverized alum, 14 ounces 
sweet spirits of nitre. Put up in 1 ounce bottles. Retails read¬ 
ily at 25 cents per bottle. This is the most effective remedy for 
toothache that was ever discovered, and is a fortune to anyone 
who will push its sale. It sells at every house. 

A Certain Cure for Drunkenness.— Sulphate of iron 5 
grains, magnesia 10 grains, peppermint water 11 drams, spirits 
of nutmeg 1 dram, twice a day. This preparation acts as a tonic 
and stimulant, and so partially supplies the place of the accus¬ 
tomed liquor and prevents that adsolute physical and mental 
prostration that follows a sudden breaking off from the use of 
stimulating drinks. 

Fever and Ague.— Quinine 1 scruple, elixir vitriol 1 dram; 
dissolve the quinine in the elixir and tincture of black cohosh 
14 drops. Dose, 20 drops in a little water once an hour. 

Corns, a Sure Cure and Painless Eradication.— Ex¬ 
tract of cannabis indicus 10 grains, salicylic acid 6 grains, 
colodion 1 ounce; mix and apply with a camel’s hair pencil so as 
to form a thick covering over the corn for 3 or 4 nights. Take 
a hot foot bath and the corn can easil* he removed by the aid oi 
a knife. 









4 % 
















































THE DRUGGIST. 


49 


Court Plaster that will not stick and remains flexi¬ 
ble. Soak isinglass in a little warm water for 24 hours, then 
evaporate nearly all the water by a gentle heat; dissolve the resi¬ 
due with a little proof spirits of wine, and strain the whole 
t ! 1 . 1 '?\ l Sh a piece of open linen. The strained mass should be a 
stiff jelly when cool. Stitch a piece of silk or sarcenet on a 
wooden frame with tacks or thread. Melt the jelly and apply it 
to the silk thinly and evenly with a badger hair brush. A second 
coating must be applied when the first has dried. When both 
are dry apply over the whole surface two or three coatings of 
balsam of peru. This plaster remains quite pliable, and never 
Drcftks. ^ 

A Cure for Cancer. —The following has been used by a New 
York physician with great success: Take red oak bark and boil 
it to the thickness of molasses, then mix with sheep’s tallow of 
equal proportion; spread it on leaves of linn wood, green, and 
keep the plaster over the ulcer. Change once in 8 hours. 

To Strengthen and Invigorate the System. —Two drams 
essential salt of the round leaf cornel, 1 scruple extract rhubarb, 
1 scruple ginger powder. Make into pills, and take for a dose 2 
or 3 times a day. 

We glean these two prescriptions from the 
British Medical Journal. They are now being used in this coun¬ 
try, and with good results, 1. Beiledonna liniment 2 drams, 
aconite liniment 1 dram, carbolic acid 5 minims, flexible colo- 
dion 1 ounce. Mix and a,pply every night with a camel’s hair 
pencil. 2. Flexible colodion 4 drams, castor oil 4 drams, spirits 
of turpentine 4 drams. Use 3 times daily with camel’s hair 
brush. 

How to Remove Pain and Soreness from Wounds.— 

The value of the smoke from burned wool to remove the pain 
and soreness from wounds of all kinds, or from sores is great, 
and it will give immediate relief from the intense pain caused 
by a gathering. The easiest way to prepare this is to cut all- 
wool flannel—if you haven’t the wool—into narrow strips; take 
some hot ashes with a few small live coals on a shovel sprinkle 
some of the flannel,strips on it, and hold the injured member in 
the smoke for five or ten minutes, using plenty of flannel to make 
a thick smoke. Repeat as often as seems nocessary, though one 
smoking is usually enough. 

Dropsy, Cure for.— Take of bruised juniper berries, mus* 
tard seed, and ginger, 14 ounce each, bruised horseradish and 
parsley root, 1 ounce each, sound old cider, 1 quart; infuse 
Dose, a winegiassful 3 times a day. 

Catarrh, A Simple Remedy for.— Catarrh is an inflam¬ 
mation of the mucous membrane, especially of the air passages 
of the head and throat, with an exudation on its free surface 
Treatment: Simple but effective. Take 1 ounce each of fine salt" 

S ulverized borax and baking soda, mix thoroughly together and 
issolve in 54 pint of water. To take 1 tablespoonful of the 



























































kSlT 


m 


pi 


O-f 


solution to 2 or 3 of warm water, and snuff ’up the head at bed. 
time. The salt stimulates, the borax cleanses and heals, and 
the soda soothes; use soft water. 

Influenza or “Grippe,” Treatment for.— It is reported 
as having been quite fatal in Prance in 1311 and 1403. In 1570 
it also prevailed, and in 1557 spread over Europe, and extended 
to America. It occurred again in 1729, 1743, 1775, 1782, 1833, 
1837, with notable violence. In the United States, one of the 
most remarkable epidemics for extent, was that of 1843. An¬ 
other was that of 1872, following nearly the course of the epi¬ 
zootic among horses of the latter part of that year. The last 
epidemic (1890) has been a remarkable one for its extent, invad¬ 
ing all Europe and the United States. Mild cases require bous¬ 
ing and little more. The following prescriptions will be found 
excellent: Take of antipyrine 18 grains, Dover’s powder 12 
grains, powdered extract valerian 3 grains: mix. and divide 
into 6 capsules. Take one every 2 hours. If there be a tight 
cough, take the following: Take of muriate of ammonia 30 
grains, deodorized tincture of opium 1 dram, syrup of senega 
snakeroot 14 ounce, distilled wa ter 1 ounce, syrup of balsam tolu 
enough to matte 3 fluid ounces: mix, and take a teaspoonful 
every 2 hours. 



Eczema Ointment.— Salicylic acid 20 grains, oxide of zinc 
20 grains, finely powdered starch 00 grains, vaseline 1 ounce; 
mix thoroughly; apply to parts effected. 

Tonic.— Peruvian bark 1 ounce, gentian root 1 ounce, orange 
peel 1 ounce, dandelion root 1 ounce. Infuse for 4 hours with 2 
pints of water, and evaporate to 13 ounces; add 3 ounces of alco¬ 
hol. ,Dose, 1 teaspoonful in sweetened water after meals. 

For Indigestion.— Scale pepsin 1 dram, tincture of nux 
vomica 2 drams, dilute muriatic acid (chemically pure) 2 drams, 
compound tincture of gentian 2 ounces, syrup of ginger to make 
4 ounces. Powder the scale pepsin, then rub with 1 ounce of the 
syrup of ginger; then add tincture of gentian, muriatic acid and 
tincture nux vomica; then add syrup of ginger to make the 4 
ounces. Dose, 1 teaspoonfuf after meals. 

Cholera Mixture.— Tincture of opium V 2 ounce, tincture of 
capsicum V 2 ounce, spirits of camphor l / 2 ounce, chloroform iy 2 
drams, alchhol 2!4 ounces, syrup sufficient to make 8 ounces. 
Dose, 2 teaspoon luls in water after each discharge, or when in 
pain, v j 

Cough Mixture.— Ground senega root 1 ounce, ground wild 
cherry bark 1 ounce, extract licorice 1 ounce, balsam tolu 1 
ounce, ground henbane 1 dram. Infuse all together for 4 or 5 
hours, slowly with one pint of water. Then add 1 pound of su¬ 
gar. When dissolved, strain through a cloth with enough water 
added to make a pint. Then add 2 drams of granular sal ammo¬ 
niac. It is improved by adding 15 drops of chloroform. Dor 
1 teaspoonful every 2 or 3 lioui’s. 


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Kir 























































e-o. 






DEPARTMENT II. 


THE CHEMIST. 


In this department is included—under sub-heads—inks, gold 
and silver imitations, preparations made from acids, pharma¬ 
ceutical chemistry, fireworks and explosives, freezing mixtures, 
plating fluids and many recipes requiring chemical manipula¬ 
tion. Some valuable secrets are herein given. 

INKS-ANY COLOR, FOR EVERY PURPOSE-INK 
ERASERS, ETC. 

Buchner's Carmine Ink.— Pure carmine 12 grains, water 
of ammonia 3 ounces: dissolve, then add powdered gum 18 
grains; 14 dram of powdered drop lake may be substituted, for 
the carmine, where expense is an object. 

Black Copying- Ink, or Writing: Fluid.— Take 2 gal¬ 
lons of rain water and put into it gum arabic 14 pound, brown 
sugar 14 pound, clean copperas 14 pound, powdered nutgalls % 
pound: mix, and shake occasionally for 10 days, and strain; ii 
needed sooner let it stand in an iron kettle until the strength is 
obtained. The ink will stand the action of the atmosphere for 
centuries if required. 

Brown Ink.— A strong decoction of catechu. The shade may 
be vai-ied by the cautious addition of a little weak solution of 
bichromate of potash. 

Beautiful Bine Writing- Fluid. —Dissolve basic or solu¬ 
ble prussian blue in pure water. This is the most permanent 
and beautiful blue ink known. 

Black Ink.— Shellac 4 ounces, borax 2 ounces, water 1 
quart; boil till dissolved, and add 2 ounces gum arabic, dissolved 
in a little hot water: boil, add enough of a well triturated mix¬ 
ture of equal parts of indigo and lamp-black to produce a proper 
color; after standing several hours, draw off and bottle. 

Black Ink.— Extract of logwood 1 ounce, bichromate of pot¬ 
ash \i ounce; pulverize and mix in a quart of soft hot water 

51 


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52 



DEPARTMENT II 


This makes a beautiful jet black ink, which will not spoil by 
freezing. 


Black Ink.—Perchloride of mercury, the wash is hydro¬ 
chloric of tin. 


Blue Ink.— Persian blue 6 parts, oxalic acid 1 part; triturate 
with a little water to smooth paste, add gum arabic and the 
necessary quantity of water. 


Brilliant Red Ink.— Brazil wood 2 ounces, muriate of tin 
Vi dram, gum arabic 1 dram; boil down in 32 ounces of water to 
one-half, and strain. 


Common Ink.— To 1 gallon boiling soft water add % ounce 
extract of logwood; boil 2 minutes, remove from the tire and 
stir in 48 grains bichromate of potash and 8 grains prussiate of 
potash; for 10 gallons, use 6 y 2 ounces extract of logwood, 1 
ounce bichromate of potash and 80 grains prussiate of potash; 
strain. Six cents should buy the former and 25 cents the latter. 

Copying Ink.— Soft water y 2 gallon, gum arabic 1 ounce, 
brown sugar 1 ounce, clean copperas 1 ounce, powdered nut- 
galls 3 ounces: mix. and shake occasionally from 7 to 10 days 
and strain. The best copying ink made. 


Commercial Writing Ink. —Galls 1 ounce, gum l / 2 ounce, 

cloves Vi ounce, sulphate of iron Vi ounce, water 8 ounces; digest 
by frequent shaking till it has sufficient color. This is a good, 
durable ink, and will bear diluting. 


Gold Ink.— Honey and gold leaf equal parts, turpentine until 
the gold is reduced to the finest possible state of division; agi¬ 
tate with 30 parts hot water, and allow it to settle; decant the 
water and repeat the washing several times, finally dry the gold 
and mix it with a little gum water for use. 


Green Ink.— Dissolve 180 grains bichromate of potash in 1 
fluid ounce of water: add while warm y 2 ounce spirits of wine; 
then decompose the mixture with concentrated sulphuric acid 
until it assumes a brown color; evaporate this liquid until its 
quantity is reduced one-half, dilute it with 2 ounces of distilled 
water, filter it, add y 2 ounce alcohol, followed by a few drops of 
strong sulphuric acid; it is now allowed to rest, and after a time 
it assumes a beautiful green color; add a small quantity of gum 
arabic and it is ready for use. . 


Horticultural Ink. —Copper 1 part, dissolve in nitric acid 
10 parts, add water 10 parts; used to write on zinc or tin labels. 


“Handy” Water Pens.— Take best quality violet aniline, 
reduce to a thick paste with water, then add mucilage and mix 
thoroughly; apply the paste thus made to the pen, and let it dry 
1~ hours. Any steel pen may be prepared in this way. Direc¬ 
tions for using: Start action by dipping in water up to filling. 
If pen should be greasy, wet point with the tongue. To make 
the ink flow thick, dip to the filling, if wanted thin or pale, dip 



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only to the eye of pen after starting. After using throw the 
water off. hut don’t wipe it, for it will dry in a minute. 

Ink Powder.— Powdered nutgalls 4 ounces, copperas 3 
ounces, logwood 1 ounce, gum arabic y 2 ounce; sufficient for 1 
quart of water. 

Invisible Ink.— Sulphuric acid 1 part, water 20 parts; mix 
together and write with a quill pen, which writing can be read 
only after heating it. 

Invisible Ink (New).—To make the writing or drawing ap¬ 
pear which has been made upon paper it is sufficient to dip it in 
water. On drying, the traces disappear again, and reappear 
again at each succeeding immersion. The ink is made by inti¬ 
mately mixing linseed oil 1 part, water of ammonia 20 parts, 
water 100 parts. The mixture must be agitated each time be¬ 
fore the pen is dipped into it. as a little of the oil may separate 
and float on top, which would, of course, leave an oily stain upon 
the paper. 

Indelible Ink to Mark Linen.— Nitrate of silver 1% 
ounces, dissolved in 6 ounces of liquor ammonia fortis, archill 1 
ounce for coloring, gum arabic y 2 ounce; mix. 

Indelible Marking* Ink without a Preparation.— 

Dissolve separately 1 ounce of nitrate of silver and iy 2 ounces 
of sup-carbonate of soda (best washing soda) in rain water; mix 
the solutions and collect and wash the precipitate in a filter; 
while still moist rub it up in a marble or hardwood mortar with 

3 drams of tartaric acid, add 2 ounces of rain water, mix 6 
drams white sugar and 10 drams powdered gum arabic y 2 ounce 
archil and water to make up 6 ounces in measure. It should be 
put up in short dram bottles and sold at 25 cents. This is the 
best ink for marking clothes that has ever been discovered. 
There is a fortune in this recipe, as a good marking ink is very 
salable 

Indelible Ink for Glass or Metal.— Borax 1 ounce, shel¬ 
lac 2 ounces, water 18 fluid ounces; boil in a covered vessel; add 
of thick mucilage 1 ounce; triturate it with levigated indigo 
and lamp-black q. s. to give it a good color; after two hours’ re¬ 
pose decant from the dregs and bottle for use. It may be bronzed 
after being applied. Resists moisture, chlorine, and acids. 

Indelible Ink for Marking Linen.— Add caustic alkali 
to a saturated solution of corpous chloride until no further pre¬ 
cipitate forms; allow the precipitate to settle, draw off the su¬ 
pernatant liquor with a siphon and dissolve the hydrated copper 
oxide in the smallest quantity of ammonia; it may be mixed 
with about 6 per vent of gum dextrine for use. 

4 Luminous Ink.— Shines in the dark. Phosphorous y 2 dram, 
oil cinnamon y 2 ounce; mix in a vial, cork tightly, heat it slowly 
until mixed. A letter written in this ink can only be read in 
a dark room, when the writing will have the appearance of a 
fire. 





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54 


DEPARTMENT II. 


Purple.— Solution of gold and muriate of tin. 

Red Ink.— Two ounces cochineal bruised, pour over it 1 quart 
boiling water, let it stand eight hours; boil 2 ounces brazil wood 
in 1 pint of water, let it stand eight hours and then add the two 
together; dissolve V% ounce gum arabic in Vi pint hot water; add 
all together and let it stand four days; strain and bottle for use. 

Silver Ink.— For silver ink the process is the same as gold, 
substituting silver leaf for the gold leaf. 

Ticketing' Ink for Grocers, Etc. —Dissolve 1 ounce of 
gum arabic in 6 ounces of water and strain, this is the mucilage; 
for a black color, use drop black, powdered and ground with the 
mucilage to extreme fineness; for blue, ultra-marine is used ir 
the same manner; for green, emerald green; for white, flake 
white; for red, vermilion, lake, or carmine; for yellow, chrome 
yellow. When ground too thick they are thinned with a little 
water. Apply to the cards with a small brush. The cards may 
be sized with a thin glue, afterwards varnished, if it is desired to 
preserve them. 

The Eiglitning Ink Eraser. —The great lightning ink 
eraser may be used instead of a knife or scraper for erasing in 
order to rectify a mistake or clean off a blot without injury to 
the paper, leaving the paper as clean and good to write upou as 
it was before the blot or mistake was made, and without injury 
to the printer’s ink upon any printed form or ruling upon any 
first-class paper. Take of chloride of lime 1 pound, thoroughly 
pulverized, and 4 quarts of soft water; the above must be thor¬ 
oughly shaken when first put together: it is required to stand 
twenty-four hours to dissolve the chloride of lime: then strain 
through a cotton cloth, after which add a tablespoonful of acetic 
acid (No. 8 commercial) to every ounce of chloride of lime water. 
The eraser is used by reversing the penholder in the hand, dip¬ 
ping the end in the fluid, and applying it, without rubbing, to the 
blot to be erased. When the ink has disappeared absorb the 
fluid into a blotter, and the paper is immediately ready to write 
upon. 

Sympathetic Ink. —One of the best known kinds of sympa¬ 
thetic ink consists of a weak solution of chloride or nitrate of 
cobalt. Writing executed with such a solution is invisible until 
warm, when it appears green or bluish, disappearing on expos¬ 
ure to moist air. 

Indelible Ink.— An indelible ink that cannot be erased, even 
with acids, can be obtained from the following recipe: To good 
gall ink add a strong solution of Prussian blue dissolved in dis¬ 
tilled water. This will form a writing fluid which cannot be 
erased without destruction of the paper. The ink will be green 
ish blue, but afterward will turn black. 

Traveler’s Ink.— White blotting paper is saturated with 
aniline black, and several sheets are pasted together, so as to 
form a thick pad. When required for use a small piece is torn 











































































THE CHEMIST. 


b 

oft and covered with a little water. The black liquid which dis¬ 
solves out is a good writing ink. A square inch of paper will 
produce enough ink to last for a considerable writing, and a few 
pads would be all that an exploring party need carry with them. 
As water is always available, the ink is readily made. This is a 
perfectly original and new recipe. Any enterprising man can 
make a large income out of its manufacture. 

To W rite Secret Tetters. —Put 5 cents’ worth of citrate of 
potassa in an ounce vial of clear cold water. This forms an in¬ 
visible fluid. Let it dissolve and you can use on paper of any 
color. Use quill pen in writing. iWhen you wish the writing to 
become visible hold it to a red-hot stove. 

To Make Rubber Stamp Ink.— Dissolve aniline in hot 
glycerine and strain while hot or warm. 

Violet Copying- Ink.— For blue violet, dissolve in 300 parts 
of water, methyl violet 5 B., Hofman’s violet 3 B., or gentiana 
violet B. For reddish violet, dissolve in a similar quantity of 
water, methyl violet BR. A small quantity of sugar added to 
these inks improves their copying qualities. If the writing, 
when dry, retains a bronzy appearance more water must be 
added. 

White Ink.— Mix pure freshly precipitated barium sulphate 
or flake white with water containing enough gum arabic to pre¬ 
vent the immediate precipitation of the substance. Starch or 
magnesium carbonate may be used in a similar way. They must 
be reduced to palpable powders. 

Yellow. —Subacetate of lead, wash with hydrochloric acid. 

Zodiac Branding- Ink.— A waterproof branding ink, good 
for marking sheep Shellac 2 ounces, borax 2 ounces, water 24 
ounces, gum arabic 2 ounces, lampblack sufficient; boil the 
borax and shellac in the water till they are dissolved and with¬ 
draw them from the fire: when the solution becomes cold com¬ 
plete 25 ounces with water and add lampblack enough to bring 
the preparation to a suitable consistency. When it is to be used 
with a stencil it must be made thicker than when it is used with 
a brush. The above gives black ink. For red ink, substitute Ve¬ 
netian red for lamp black; for blue, ultramarine, and for green, 
a mixture of ultramine and chrome yellow. 


SOME ADDITIONAL FORHULAS. 

Gilding Writing.— For illustrating the covers of books, 
cards, etc. A little size is mixed with the ink and the letters 
are made as usual; when they ai-e dry. a slight degree of sticki¬ 
ness is produced by breathing unon them, when gold leaf is im¬ 
mediately applied, and by a little pressure is made to adhere. 

To Restore Faded Blaek Ink.— 1 . Cover the letters with 
a solution of ferrocyanide of potassium, with the addition of 

























































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56 DEPARTMENT II. 

diluted muriatic acid, upon the application of which the letters 
will turn to a deep blue color. To prevent the color from spread¬ 
ing, the ferrocyanide should be put on first, the diluted acid 
next. 2. Dampen a piece of soft white paper, lay it on the faded 
writing, press it down closely, put a tablespoonful of spirits of 
hartshorn in a tin vessel with a candle or lamp under it, hold 
the soft damp paper over it, so that it may receive the fumes of 
the hartshorn; if the writing is not exhibited on the soft paper 
plain enough, dampen again and repeat the process until satis¬ 
factory results reward the effort* 3. Faded writing on old 
parchments or paper may be made perfectly legible by dampen¬ 
ing same with water and then passing over the lines a brush 
moistened with sulphide of ammonia. The writing will imme¬ 
diately appear quite dark in color, and this color, in parchment, 
it will preserve; on paper, the color gradually fades away, but 
can be reproduced by an application at any time. 

Waterproof Ink.— Suitable for inscriptions on stone, 
tombs, or any place where dampness may attack. Pitch 11 
pounds, lampblack 1 pound, turpentine sufficient to make solu¬ 
ble; mix, with heat. 

Vanishing; Inks.—1. A piece of sal ammoniac is placed 4 
or 5 days in nitric acid, and then powder of touchstone, such as 
jewelers use to test gold and silver, is mixed with the liquid. 
This gives a fluid which bleaches in 6 or 8 days. 2. A still 
better ink of this kind may be obtained as follows: Boil 4 
ounces of powdered or crushed nutgalls in diluted nitric acid 
and add 2 ounces of sulphate of iron and some chloride of am¬ 
monia. Writing done with this mixture will disappear in a few 
days, leaving no trace. 

Ink Eraser.— Blotting paper or a similar material is im¬ 
mersed in a hot concentrated solution of citric acid, then rolled 
into a pencil and the larger portion of it coated with paper or 
lacquer. For use the eraser is moistened with the tongue or 
water and rubbed over the ink to be removed. A drop of water 
containing chloride of lime is then dropped upon the ink spot, 
whereby the ink immediately disappears. 

Copying Pad.— Put 1 ounce of glue to soak in cold water 
until pliable and soft. Drain off the surplus water and place the 
dish in another dish containing hot water. When the glue is 
thoroughly melted, add 6 ounces of glycerine, which has been 
previously heated, and mix the two, adding a few drops of car¬ 
bolic acid to prevent molding. Pour out this mixture into a 
shallow pan (9x12 inches) and set away to cool, taking care that 
the surface is free from blisters. After standing 12 hours it is 
ready for use. To use. write on a sheet of paper what you wish 
to duplicate with a sharp steel pen and strong aniline ink. 
When dry, lay the paper face down on the pad, pressing it light¬ 
ly. and allow it to remain for a moment. On removing the paper 
an impression will be found on the face of the pad, and if another 
paper is placed upon it. it will receive a similar impression. 


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THE CHEMIST 


When enough impressions have been taken, the face of the pad 
should be immediately washed with a sponge and cold water until 
the ink impression is wholly removed. If the surface of the pad 
becomes di'y, wipe it with a moist sponge, and, if uneven, melt 
over a slow fire. 


GOLD AND SILVER. 


IMITATIONS—PLATING POWDERS FOR CLEANING, ALSO 
PREPARATIONS FOR CLEANING OTHER METALS. 

Gold, to Imitate.—1. One hundred parts, by weight, pure 
copper, 14 parts zinc or tin, 0 parts magnesia. 3 6-10 parts sal 
ammoniac, limestone and cream of tartar. The copper is melted, 
then the magnesia, sal amouiac. limestone and cream of tartar 
added, in powder, separately and gradually, the mass stirred y 2 
hour, the zinc or tin dropped in piece by piece, and the stirring 
kept until they melt; finally, the crucible is covered and the 
mass kept in fusion for 35 minutes, the scum removed and the 
metal poured into molds, when it is ready for use. This makes 
a metal susceptible to high polish, and will not easily oxidize. 
2 . Platina 2 parts, silver 1 part, copper 3 parts. 3 . Take the 
following metals and melt them in a covered crucible: Virgin 
platina 16 ounces, pure copper 24 ounces. 

Artificial Gold.— Virgin platina 16 parts, copper 7 parts, 
zinc 1 part; put these in a crucible with powdered charcoal, and 
melt them together till the whole forms a mass and are thor¬ 
oughly incorporated together. This also makes a gold of extra¬ 
ordinary beauty and value. It is not possible, by any tests that 
chemists know of. to distinguish it from pure virgin gold. All I 
ask of men is to use it for good and lawful purposes, for the 
knowledge that I here give will bring you a rich and permanent 
reward without using for unlawful purposes. 

Dfaiilieiin, or Jeweler’s Gold.— Copper 3 parts, zinc 1 
part, block tin 1 part. If these are pure and melted in a covered 
crucible containing charcoal, the resemblance will be so good 
that the best judges cannot tell it from pure gold without ana¬ 
lyzing it. 

Best Pincliblack Gold.— Pure copper 5 ounces, zinc 1 
ounce. This makes gold so good in appearance that a great deal 
of deception by its use in the way of watches and jewelry has 
been successfully practiced for several hundred years back. 

Imitation Gold.— Platina 4 ounces, silver 3 ounces, copper 
1 ounce. 

Oroide Gold.— The best article is made by compounding 
pure copper 4 parts, pure zinc 1% parts, magnesia part, sal 
ammoniac 1-10 part, quicklime 1-12 part, ci’eam of tartar 1 part; 


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DEPARTMENT XI. 


melt the copper first, then add as rapidly as possible the other 
articles in the order named. 




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IIow to Increase the Weight of Gold. —Take your bar 
of gold and rub it long and carefully with thin silver, until the 
gold absorbs the quantity of silver that you require. Then pre¬ 
pare a strong solution of brimstone and quicklime. Now put 
the gold into a vessel with a wide mouth. Now let them boil 
until the gold attains the right color, and you have it. 

Imitation Silver. —Refined nickel 11 ounces, metallic bis¬ 
muth 2 ounce; melt the composition 3 times, and pour them out 
in ley. The third time, when melting, add 2 ounces of pure 
silver. 

Silver.— Nickel 40 ounces, copper 20 ounces, block tin 30 
ounces. 



Still Other Methods.—1. Combine by fusion 1 part pure 
copper, 24 parts block-tin. l l / 2 parts pure antimony, 14 part pure 
bismuth, and 2 parts clear glass; the glass may be omitted, save 
in such cases where it is an object to have the metal sonorous. 
2 . Pure copper 750 parts, nickel 140 parts, black oxide of cobalt 
20 parts, tin in stick 18 parts, zinc 72 parts. 3 . Melt 4 pounds 
pure copper with 3 ounces of tin. This closely resembles and 
rings like sterling silver, and is valuable where pure silver 
would be too expensive. 

Silver Fluid.— For silvering brass and copper articles of 
every description.—Take 1 ounce of precipitated silver to *4 an 
ounce cyanate of jDotash and 14 of an ounce of hypersulphate of 
soda; put all into a quart of water, add a little whitening and 
shake before using. Apply with a soft rag. 

Original and Genuine Silver Plating Fluid.— Gal 

vanism Simplified.—Dissolve 1 ounce of nitrate of silver in Crys¬ 
tal in 12 ounces of soft water; then dissolve in the water 2 
ounces of cyanwret of potash; shake the whole together and let 
it stand until it becomes clear; have ready some 14-ounce vials, 
and fill them half full with Paris white or fine whiting, then fill 
up the bottles with the liquid and it is ready for use. The whit¬ 
ing does not increase the coating power, it only helps to clean 
the articles and to save the silver fluid by half filling the bottles. 
The above quantity of materials will only cost about $1,50 so 
that the fluid will only cost about 3 cents a bottle. 

Silver Polish for Tin, Brass, and Metallic Articles.— 

Quicksilver, tinfoil,,or rotten-stone equal parts, all pulverized 
together. ^ 

The Housekeeper's Friend or Electric Powder.— 

This is one of the most salable articles of the day and staple as 
flour-something that every housekeeper will buy. It is used 
for gold and silver plated ware. German silver, brass, copper 
glass, tin, steel, or any material where a brilliant luster 
is required. To 4 pounds of the best quality of whiting 
add 1 / 2 pound cream of tartar, and 3 ounces calcined magnesia - 


A 











































































mix thoroughly together, box, and label. Directions: Use the 
polish dry with fa piece of chamois skin or canton flannel, pre¬ 
viously moistened with water or alcohol, and finish with the 

f )olish dry. A few moments’ rubbing will develop a surprising 
uster, different from the polish produced by any other sub¬ 
stance. 

Silver Powrter. —Nitrate of silver and common salt each 30 
grains, cream of tartar 314 drams; pulverize finely, mix thor¬ 
oughly, and bottle for use. Unequalled for polishing copper and 
plated goods. 

To Clean Brittania Ware.— Brittania ware should be 
washed with a woolen cloth and sweet oil, then washed in water 
and suds, and rubbed with soft leather and whiting. Thus 
treated it will retain its beauty to the last. 

A Gold Plate for Small Articles Without a Battery. 
Digest a small fragment of gold with about ten times its weight 
of mercury until it is dissolved; shake the amalgam together 
in a bottle and, after cleansing the articles, coat them uniformly 
with the amalgam; then expose them on an iron tray heated to 
low redness for a few minutes; the mercury volatilizes, leaving 
the gold attached as a thin coating to the article. The heating 
shoulu be done in a stove, so that the poisonous mercurial fumes 
may pass up the chimney. 

Crucibles.— The best crucibles are made of a pure Are clay, 
mixed with finely-ground cement of old crucibles, and a portion 
of black lead or graphite; some pounded coke may be mixed 
with the plumbago; the clay should be prepared in a similar 
way as for making pottery-ware. The vessels after being formed 
must be slowly dried and then properly baked in a kiln. Black 
lead crucibles are made of 2 parts of graphite and 1 of fire clay, 
mixed with water into a paste, pressed in molds, and well dried, 
but not baked hard in the kiln. This compound forms excellent 
small or portable furnaces. 


FIREWORKS AND EXPLOSIVES. 


EXPLOSIVES. 


Dynamite.— Mix infusorial silica with about 75 per cent of 
nitro-glycerine, which it readily absorbs; exploded by percus¬ 
sion pruning. 

Fulminate of Mercury.— Mercury 100 parts, 'nitric acid 
1,000 parts; dissolve by a gentle heat, when the solution has 
acquired the temperature of 130 degrees Fahrenheit, slowly pour 
it through a glass funnel tube into alcohol 830 parts; as soon 
as the effervescence is over and the white fumes cease to be 
evolved, filter through double paper, wash with cold water and 


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DEPARTMENT II. 


dry by steam or hot water; then pack in 100 grain paper parcels 
and store in a tight box or corned bottle. 

Fulminate oi' Silver.— Digest oxide of silver (recently pre¬ 
cipitated and dried by pressure between bioulous papers) in 
concentrated liquor of ammonia for 12 or 15 hours; pour off the 
liquid and cautiously dry the black powder in the air, in divided 
portions; the decanted ammoniacal liquor, when gently heated, 
yields, on cooling, small crystals, which possess a still more 
formidable power of detonation than the black powder, and will 
scarcely bear touching even when under the liquid. 

Fulminating' Powder.- 1 . Mix together in a warm mortar 
3 parts of pulverized nitre, 2 parts of dry carbonate of potash. 1 
part of sulphur; a small quantity heated on an iron shovel or 
ladle untii it fuses will explode with great violence. 2. Sulphur 
1 part, chlorate of potash 3 parts. 

Greek Fire. —A solution of phosphorus in bisulphide of car¬ 
bon; not strictly an explosive, but an agent of ancient warfare 
which burns on water. 

Gun Cotton.— Mix 4*4 ounces of pure dry nitrate of potash 
with 30 fluid drams of sulphuric acid; after cooling thoroughly, 
stir with this mixture carefully 30 drams of best carded cotton; 
as soon as saturation is complete, throw the cotton into a tubful 
of clear rain water and change the water repeatedly until test¬ 
ing with litmus paper fails to show the existence of acid; then 
squeeze it in a cloth, and after being well pulled out, dry it 
cautiously in a temperature not to exceed 140 degrees Fahren¬ 
heit. It is now an explosive, and too much caution cannot be 
exercised in handling it. 

Gunpowder (blasting).—Saltpetre 62 parts, sulphur 20 
parts, charchoal. powdered, 15 parts. 

Gunpowder (sporting).—Saltpetre 79 1-6 parts, sulphur 
9 1-6 parts, charcoal 13 1-5. 

Nitro-Glyeerine.— This is prepared by the action of strong 
nitric and sulphuric acids on glycerine at a low temperature. 
Sulphuric acid 4 % pounds, nitric acid 2^ pounds, glycerine 1 
pound; nitro-glycerine collects at the bottom of the vessel and 
is freed from the acids by carefully washing in a copious supply 
of water; the explosion is caused by the rapid transformation 
from the liquid to the gaseous state. 

Xitroliiie.— From 5 to 20 parts of sugar or syrup are mixed 
with from 25 to 30 parts of nitric acid in a wooden or gutta 
perch a vessel; of this compound, 25 to 30 parts are mixed with 
from 13 to 35 parts of nitrate of potassa and from 13 to 15 parts 
of cellulose. 


FIREWORKS. 

The three prime materials in the art of pyrotechny are niter, 
sulphur, and clear coal, alone: with filinas of iron, steel, copper 





























































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zinc, and resin, camphor, shellac, lycopodium, etc. Gunpowder 
is used either in grain or crushed, as may best answer the pur¬ 
pose. As fireworks can be more easily purchased than manufac¬ 
tured, a few formulas only will be given, principally for colored 
fires and easily made pieces. 

Colored Fires.— The ingredients for these must be dry. not 
too finely powdered, and mixed together uniformly. Each should 
be reduced to a powder separately and mixed very lightly with 
the other powders; the whole must then be passed through a 
sieve once or twice. Great care must be exercised in handling 
chlorate of potash. The following compositions form the differ¬ 
ent fires: 

Blue Fire.—1. Sulphur 4 ounces, mealed powder 4 o-inces, 
antimony 2 ounces, lampblack 16 ounces. 2. Sulphur, sulphate 
of potassa, and ammonia, sulphate of copper, of each 15 parts, 
niter 27 parts, chlorate of potassa 28 parts. 2. Realgar 2 parts, 
charcoal 3 parts, chlorate of potassa 5 parts, sulphur 13 parts, 
nitrate of baryta 77 parts. 

Crimson Fire.— Charcoal 4 y 2 parts, sulphuret of antimony 
5 y 2 parts, chlorate of potassa 17% parts, sulphur 18 parts, nitrate 
of strontia 55 parts. 

Green Fire.—1. Nitrate of baryta 80 paints, chlorate of pot¬ 
ash 32 parts, sulphur 24 parts, calomel 16 parts, fine clear coal 
3 parts, shellac 2 parts. 2. Chlorate of baryta 2 ounces, nitrate 
of baryta 3 ounces, sulphur 1 ounce. 3. Metallic arsenic 2 parts, 
charcoal 3 parts, chlorate of potash 5 parts, sulphur 13 parts, 
nitrate of baryta 77 parts. 4. Nitrate of baryta 10 ounces, chlor¬ 
ate potash 4 ounces, gum shellac 2 ounces. 

Lilac Fire.—1. Black oxide of copper 6 parts, dry chalk 20 
parts, sulphur 25 parts, chlorate of potassa 49 parts. 2. Black 
oxide of copper 3 parts, dried chalk 22 parts, sulphur 25 parts, 
chlorate of potassa 50 parts. 

Orange Fire. Sulphur 14 parts, chalk 34 parts, chlorate of 
potassa o2 parts. 

Pink Fire.—1. Charcoal 1 part, chalk and sulphur of each 2 
parts, chlorate of potassa 27 parts, niter 32 parts. 2. Chlorate 
of potassa 12 ounces, saltpeter 5 ounces, milk sugar 4 ounces, 
lycopodium 1 ounce, axalate of strontia 1 ounce. 

Purple Fire.—1. Chlorate of potash 5 parts, nitrate of stron¬ 
tia 16 parts, realgar 1 part, sulphur 2 parts, lampblack 1 part. 
2. Chlorate of potash 2 ounces, sulphur 1 dram, oxide of copper 
1 ounce. 3. Sulphuret of antimony 2% parts, black oxide of 
copper 10 parts, sulphur and nitrate of potassa of each 22% 
parts, chlorate of potassa 42 parts. 

Red Fire.—1. Nitrate of strontia 37^ parts, flowers of sul¬ 
phur 10 parts, charcoal 1% parts, powdered chlorate of potash 
5 parts, black sulphur of antimony 3 y e parts. 2. Stilphur, sul¬ 
phuret of antimony and nitre, of each 1 part, dried nitrate of 
strontia 5 parts. 1 3. Chlorate of potash 32 parts, nitrate of 


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strontia 48 parts, calomel 20 parts, shellac 12 parts, chertier’s 
copper 4 parts, fine charcoal 1 part. 4. Nitrate of strontia 10 
ounces, potash 4 ounces, gum shellac 2 ounces, all powdered 


Violet Fire.—1. Charcoal 8 parts, sulphur 10 parts, metallic 
copper 15 parts, chlorate of potassa 30 parts. 2. Alum and car¬ 
bonate of potassa, of each 12 parts, sulphur 16 parts, chlorate 
of potassa 60 parts. 3. Sulphur 14 parts, alum and carbonate 
of potassa 16 parts, chlorate of potassa 54 parts. 

White Fire.— 1. From nitre 60 parts, sulphur 20 parts, 
black antimony 10 parts, meal powder 6 parts, powdered cam- 
phor 4 parts. 2. Niter 16 ounces, mealed powder 4 ounces sul¬ 
phur 8 ounces. 

Yellow Fire.—1. Niter 2 ounces, sulphur 4 ounces, nitrate 
of soda 20 ounces, lampblack 1 ounce. 2. From sulphur 16 
parts, dried carbonate of soda 23 parts, chlorate of potassa 61 
parts. 

Colored Flames (green).—Mix chloride of copper or boracic 
acid with alcohol. 

Red Flame. —Mix alcohol with nitrate of strontium, nitrate 
of iron or nitrate of lime. 

Yellow Flame.— Mix alcohol with nitrate of soda. 

Fiame or Electric Paper.— 1 . Soak Swedish filtering 
paper for 10 minutes in a mixture of 4 parts of oil of vitriol with 
o pai ts of stiong nitric acid, both by measure; when the strips 
are removed from the acid they must be thoroughly washed 
first with cold, then with hot rain or distilled water, till the 
washings cease to be acid; then make different solutions not 
too strong, of such of the chlorates of the metals as give the de- 
sned flame reactions; make them slightly warm, and saturate 
the papers separately with them; dry the papers before the fire 
previous to lighting them; they show to best advantage when a 
slip is loosely crumpled up into a pellet, lighted quickly at one 
corner and thrown into the air against a dark background; bv 
bi iskly iubbiug these papers on a woolen surface they become 
highly magnetic, and interesting experiments may be made with 
them. 2. Dry 1.000 grains of pure niter at a moderate heat 
place it m a dry retort, pour on it 10 drams, by measure of 
strong sulphuric acid: distill until 6 drams of nitric acid have 
passed over into the receiver; dry some thin unsized paper, such 
as filter paper, and weigh out 60 grains of it: mix 5 measured 
drams of the nitric acid with an equal volume of strong sul¬ 
phuric acid in a small glass vessel; allow the mixture to coop 
immerse the paper: press it down with a glass rod; cover the 
vessel with a glass plate; set it aside for 15 or 20 minutes- lift 
P^P e r out with a glass rod; throw it into a bucket of water: 
wash it thoroughly in a stream of water till it no longer tastes 

or ft°a r very e gentle U heat. nUS Papei ” dlT 11 by eXposure to the air, 

Flyers, with Brilliant Fire. —1. Meal powder 8 parts 





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sulphur 1 part, iron filings 2 parts. 2. Meal powder 36 parts, 
sulphur 1 part, steel filings 8 parts. 3. Meal powder 18 parts, 
sulphur 1 part, litharge 2 part, steel filings 3 parts. 

Golden Rain.— Procure a piece of brass rod the diameter of 
which is 3-16 of an inch, or rather less, the length from 6 to 8 
inches: cut thin brown paper into short strips about 2 inches 
wide, and long enough, when wrapped around the former, to make 
a case whose external diameter should be inch, or rather more: 
the former should have a small cup-shaped hollow cut in one of 
its ends, into which the paper may be turned, to form a closed 
end to the cases; paste the strips of paper all over; rub some 
paste on the former; then roll the paper round the former and 
draw it out so as to leave its cupped end % of an inch inside one 
of the ends of the case; pinch in the paper that projects beyond 
the former, and drive it down with a tap upon the pasting slab, 
so that the twisted end is pressed into the cup of the former; 
dip this into warm size of glue; if a little red lead is mixed with 
the size it will solidify much more rapidly; dipping the ends of 
the cases into size should not be done until they are dry from the 
paste; for filling the cases a tin funnel is used that will exactly 
fit into the mouth of the golden rain cases: when the case is 
charged the funnel must be removed, and the space that was 
occupied by its nozzle filled with gunpowder or meal powder, 
moistened with gum water; take care that this paste is pressed 
well into the mouth of the cases, and fills them. The composi¬ 
tions used are: 1. Niter 16 ounces, sulphur 11 ounces, mealed 
powder 4 ozs., lampblack 3 ozs., flowers of zinc 1 oz., gumarabic 
1 oz : materials used must be in the state of fine powders and 
perfectly dry. 2. Saltpetre 16 parts, sulphur 8 parts, fine char¬ 
coal 2 parts, pen soot 2 parts, meal powder 4 parts. 3. Salt¬ 
petre 4 parts, sulphur 2 parts, fine charcoal 4 parts, meal pow¬ 
der 16 parts. 

Japanese Matches (Scintellettes).—Lampblack 5 parts, sul¬ 
phur 11 parts, gunpowder from 26 to 30 parts, this last propor¬ 
tion varying with the quality of the powder; grind very fine; 
make the material into a paste with alcohol, form it into dice 
about hi inch square with a knife as a spatula, let them dry 
rather gradually on a warm mantelpiece, not too near a fire; 
when dry fix one of the little squares into a cleft made at the 
end of a lavender stalk or, what is better, the straw-like material 
of which housemade carpet-brooms are made, light the material 
at a candle, hold the stem downward, after the first blazing off a 
ball of molten lava will form, from which the curious corrusca- 
tions will soon appear. 

Pharoali’s Serpents’ Eg-gs.— Take mercury and dissolve 
it in moderately diluted nitric acid by means of heat, take care, 
however, that there be always an excess of metallic mercury 
remaining: decant the solution and pour it in a solution of sul- 
phocyanide of ammonia or potassium, which may be bought at 
a good drug store or of a dealer in chemicals; equal weights of 
both will answer; a precipitate will fall to the bottom of the 







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beaker or jar, which is to collected on a filter and washed two or 
three times with water, when it is put, in a warm place to dry; 
take for every pound of this material 1 ounce of gum tragacanth 
which has been soaked in hot water; when the gum is completely 
softened it is to be transferred to a mortar, ana then pulverized 
and dried precipitate gradually mixed with it by means of a lit¬ 
tle water, so as to present a somewhat dried pill mass, from 
which, by hand, pellets of the desired size are formed, put on a 
piece of glass, and dried again. They are then ready for use. 

Pin or Scroll Wheels.— A long wire about 3-16 inch in di¬ 
ameter is the former; on this wire are formed the pipes which, 
being filled with composition, are afterward wound around a 
small circle of wood so as to form a helix or spiral line; the 
cases are generally made of double-crown paper (yellow wove) 
and cut into strips, so as to give the greatest length, and of width 
sufficient to roll about four times around the wire, and paste at 
the edge, so as to bite firmly at the end of the last turn; when a 
number of pipes are made and perfectly dry they are filled with 
composition; these cases are not driven for filling, but are filled 
by means of a tin funnel with a tube % inch long, made to press 
easily into the mouth of the case, which is done gradually by 
lifting a wire up and down in this tube, the dry composition be¬ 
ing placed in the funnel, the moment an action of the wire takes 
place the composition begins to fall into the case, which the 
charging wire compresses by continuous motion until you have 
filled the pipe to within % inch of the top; the pipe is then re¬ 
moved and the mouth neatly twisted, which will be the point for 
lighting. When a number of pipes are ready place them on a, 
damp floor, or in any damp situation, until they become very 
pliant, but by no means wet; then commence winding them 
round a circle of wood whose substance must be equal to the 
thickness of the diameter of the pipe; either close together or 
openly in the form of a scroll; when wound, secure the end with 
sealing wax to prevent its springing open; after winding the re¬ 
quired quantity let them dry; cut some strips of crimson or pur¬ 
ple paper 3-16 inch wide and in length twice the diameter of the 
wheel; then paste all over thoroughly; take a strip and paste it 
across the wheel diametrically; rub it down, then turn the wheel 
over and place the ends down to correspond with the opposite 
side; when dry the wheel will be ready for firing; they may be 
fired on a large pin or held in the hand, but it is preferable to 
drive the pin into the end of a stick, which will prevent any acci¬ 
dent, should a section of the wheel burst. The following are the 
compositions used: 

Brilliant: Niter 1 part, sulphur 1 part, mealed powder 16 
parts, and steel filings 7 parts. 

Chinese; Niter 1 part, sulphur 1 part, mealed powder 7 parts, 
and cast-iron filings 7 parts. 

Common: Niter 6 parts, sulphur 1 part, mealed powder 16 
parts, charcoal 6 parts. 

>White; Niter 6 parts, sulphur 7 parts, and mealed powder 16 
parts. 



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THE CHEMIST. 


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Rockets.— Make the cases of any kind of thick stiff paper, 
either cartridge paper, or what is equally as good and much 
cheaper, common bag paper; roll up the cases with a smooth, 
round ruler, exactly the size of the cavity of the rocket and 10 
or 12 times as long; lay a sheet of paper on a slate or slab, 
marble or glass, and paste 4 or 5 inches along the end of it, 
leaving the rest of sheet of paper without paste; roll it smooth¬ 
ly over the ruler, dry end first, until the whole is rolled up. when, 
of course, the paste will stick and a thin case be formed; keep 
rolling it along the slab with the hands, in the same way as a 
rolling pin is used, for 2 or 3 minutes, until the various folds of 
the paper set close and tight to each other; put on another sheet 
in the same way, and so on, till the case is thick enough, that is, 
until the sides are a trifle more than y a the thickness of the ruler; 
the size of the rocket case, and consequently the width that the 
sheets of brown paper are to be cut before pasting, varies with 
the size of the rockets; in small rockets the length of the case 
may be 6 times the diameter; in larger rockets 4 or 5 times is 
sufficient; now choke the case; then fasten a thin cord at one 
end to a staple in the wall, and the other tied around the waist 
of the operator; as he may lean back, of course the cord would 
be tightened and the sides of the case brought together until 
they nearly touch; when the case is sufficiently compressed, tie 
it with 2 or 3 turns of strong string; put the cases in the mould 
(as elsewhere described) with the piercer in it, and put enough 
composition in it to fill about 1 inch of the case; take the ram¬ 
mer, ram it down with 3 or 4 strong blows with a mallet; putin 
the same quantity of composition again and ram that down in 
the same manner, and so on till the case is filled to the top of 
the piercer and 1 diameter above it; separate some of the cen¬ 
tral folds of the paper, which, it has been observed, is not 
pasted, and turn them down upon the composition, ramming 
them down hard upon it; or. what will do as well, put in a piece 
of paper as wadding; when this is rammed down, and firm, bore 
with a brass brad awl 3 or 4 holes through it; these holes serve 
to make the requisite communication between the rocket and 
the head. The rocket being charged, the head or pot must be 
fixed; this is a paper case made upon a wooden former, turned 
cylindrical, about 4 inches in length and a shade larger in diam¬ 
eter than the exterior of the rocket case; take some thick brown 
paper and cut it in strips large enough to go twice around the 
former; paste and roll as for the case; pinch one end, and a 
cylinder of paper will be thus made which should fit nicely over 
the lay end of the rocket; now fix upon the pinched end a con¬ 
ical cap made upon a former of like shape; trim the end which 
was choked, which is still open, and which has a hole passing 
up it, which the piercer occupied; fill up the hole with loose gun¬ 
powder made into a stiff paste with very weax gum water, and 
paste a piece of touch paper over it. The composition used is: 
Niter 26 ounces, sulphur 5(4 ounces, charcoal 19 ounces. The 
sticks are fastened on to the case by means of wires or strings, 
and are of the following size: Two-pound rockets require sticks 


































































66 


DEPARTMENT II. 


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9 feet 4 inches long, 1 inch square at the top and rather more 
than y 2 inch square at the bottom; 1-pound rocket sticks are 8 
feet 2 inches long, inch square at top and % inch at bottom; 
8-ounce rocket sticks are 6 feet 2 inches long. inch square at 
top and % inch at bottom; 4-ounce rocket sticks are 5 feet 3 
inches long, %xy 2 inch at top and \i inch square at bottom; 2- 
ounce rocket sticks are 5 feet 1 inch long, 3-10 xy 2 inch at top 
and 4-10 inch at bottom; 1-ounce rocket sticks are 3 feet 6 
inches long, and so on for other various sizes. The weight and 
the length of the stick must be such as that* when tied on, the 
rocket shall balance on the finger, at a point about 1 inch from 
the part choked. 

Rockets, Mold for.— This consists of a solid foot of wood; 
upon the center of this stands a short cylinder about y 2 inch 
high and exactly of the size of a mold, to be placed over it, as 
afterward described; this short cyclinder has a shoulder above, 
and terminates in a round top; out of the middle of the top is a 
tapering, thick brass wire, projecting some inches upward; the 
whole is so arranged that, when one of the newly-made cases is 
put upon the wire and forced down, the wire fills up the choke 
hole, the round top fits into the small parts of the case below the 
choke, the shoulder of the cylinder bears the extreme end of the 
case and the short cylinder agrees in size with the outsides of 
the case; then fit over this a strong woolen or metal tube, so that 
it is seen that there is no cavity anywhere, except the inside of 
the rocket case, and even in this a thick wire runs up nearly to 
the top of that part of the case where the composition is rammed, 
or nearly % of the whole case form the choke upwards; all rock¬ 
ets must be placed in the mold to be filled, as well as to smooth 
and consolidate the part choked. 

Roman Candles.— Have a composition to burn in the inter¬ 
vals between the stars, which will throw a jet of fire uniformly 
good throughout, to have stars of tolerably rapid combustion 
(otherwise they will not be ignited before they are blown into 
the air), and to have the charges of powder for blowing the stars 
regulated to a great nicety, the former of the case must be % of 
an inch in diameter and 18 inches long. The cases require rather 
a large amount of strawboard for their manufacture, but other¬ 
wise they are made similar to rocket cases. The following are 
the compositions used between the stars: 1. Niter 18 parts, sul¬ 
phur 6 parts, fine charcoal 7 parts, meal powder 4 parts. 2. Ni¬ 
ter 16 parts, meal powder 8 parts, fine charcoal 6 parts, sulphur 
6 parts. 3. Niter 16 parts, meal powder 11 parts, sulphur 6 parts, 
antimony 4 parts. The next thing is to fill the case. Before 
charging, tamp a little clay in the bottom of the case to prevent 
blowing out; ram down as much composition as will fill the case 
1-6 of its height; over this put a small piece of paper covering 
about % of the diameter; then a little rifle pc svder and upon that 
a star, observing that the star is rather smaller than the diam¬ 
eter of the case; over this first ball more of the composition 
must be put and rammed lightly down to prevent breaking the 













































1 ) 



ntjfl V I 



THE CHEMISt. 

ball, till the case Is full then a little powder and another ball 
as before, till the case is filled with balls and composition; take 
care to place composition above the highest ball; when the case 
is thus filled cap it with tough paper by pasting it round the ori¬ 
fice, and add a little priming of powder. 

Silver Rain.— 1. Saltpeter 4 ounces, sulphur, mealed powder 
and antimony, of each 2 ounces, salprunella ounce. 2. Salt¬ 
peter 8 ounces, sulphur 2 ounces, charcoal 4 ounces. 3. Salt¬ 
peter 1 pound, antimony 6 ounces, sulphur 4 ounces. 4. Saltpeter 
4 ounces, sulphur 1 ounce, powder 2 ounces, steel-dust % ounce; 
used in similar cases and treated in the same way as golden 
rain. 

Stars.— These are made as follows: Moisten the composition 
very slightly, and the mold in which stars are shaped is a brass 
tube of a size proportioned to the dimension required. The drift 
with which the composition is pressed into the tube is made of 
boxwood or metal and fits easily into the tubular mold; at one 
of its ends there is a wire point; place the end having the point 
in the mold as far as it will go; it will leave a space at the end of 
the mold unoccupied by the drift; press this empty end of the 
tube into the slightly moistened ctmposition until it is filled by 
it, so that the drift being driven down upon the composition will 
compress it into a firm cylindrical mass, into the center of which 
the point projects; when the star is thus formed in the mold the 
drift must be withdrawn, reversed, its long plain end inserted, 
and the star pushed out and placed separately upon the tray to 
dry. The following compositions are used; 

Blue.— 1. Chlorate of potash 8 parts, sulphide of copper 6 
parts; Chertier’s copper 5 parts, sulphur 4 parts. 2. Chlorate of 
potash 16 parts, Chertier’s copper 12 parts, calomel 8 parts, 
stearine 2 parts, sulphur 2 parts, shellac 1 part. 3. Niter 12 
parts, sulphuret of antimony 2 parts, sulphur 4 parts, lampblack 
2 parts. 

Brilliant.— 1. Mealed powder % ounce, saltpeter 3 y 2 ounces, 
sulphur 154 ounces, spirits of wine 1*4 ounce. 2. Niter 16 parts, 
sulphur 8 parts, sulphuret of antimony 4 parts, meal powder 3 
parts. 

Crimson.— 1. Chlorate of potash 24 parts, nitrate of strontia 
32 parts, calomel 12 parts, sulphur 6 parts, shellac, in fine pow¬ 
der, 6 parts, sulphide of copper 2 parts, fine charcoal 2 parts. 
2. Chlorate of potash 12 Darts, nitrate of strontia 20 parts, sul¬ 
phur 11 parts, charcoal 2 parts, antimony 2 parts, mastic 1 part. 

Green. —1. Chlorate of potash 20 parts, nitrate of baryta 40 
parts, calomel 10 parts, sulphur 8 parts, shellac 3 parts, fine 
charcoal 1 part, fused sulphide of copper 1 part. 2. Nitrate of 
baryta 42 parts, realgar 2 parts, sulphur 8 parts, lampblack 1 
part. 3. Chlorate of potash 28 parts, nitrate of baryta 12 parts, 
sulphur 15 parts, mastic 1 part. 

Lilac.— Potash 50 parts, sulphur 25 parts, chalk 22 parts, 
black oxide of copper 3 parts. 

Rose.—C hlorate of potash 20 parts, carbonate of strontia 8 



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parts, calomel 10 parts, shellac 2 parts, sulphur 3 parts, fine 
charcoal 1 part. 

Violet.— Chlorate of potash 9 parts, nitrate of strontia4 parts, 
sulphur 6 parts, carbonate of copper 1 part, calomel 1 part, mas¬ 
tic 1 part. 

White.— Mealed powder 4 ounces, saltpeter 12 ounces, sulphur 
6*4 ounces, oil of spike 2 ounces, camphor 5 ounces. 

Yellow.— 1. Chlorate of potash 20 parts, bicarbonate of soda 
10 parts, sulphur 5 parts, mastic 1 part. 2. Nitrate of soda 74 Vi 
parts, sulphur 19*4 parts, charcoal 0 parts. 

Torpedoes (Toy).—Are made by inclosing a small quantity of 
fulminate of silver with a little common gravel, washed free 
from dirt, in a piece of paper twisted together; the gravel is to 
make weight; the torpedo explodes by concussion on being 
dropped upon the floor. 

Triangles and Vertical Wheels. —Are made by using 
three or more driving cases arranged on a frame to be pivoted 
in the center, so that as the cases are discharged they wifi cause 
the frame to revolve, thereby forming a wheel or circle of fire. 
The driving cases are made similar to a rocket case, but without 
the pot or head; the cases are to be connected together with a 
quick-match, so that the fire will communicate from one to an¬ 
other. 


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PERFUMES, COSMETICS, TOILET ARTICLES 




DEPARTMENT III. 


Including distilled waters and oils, toilet soaps, preparations 
for the skin, hair, teeth, and nails; in fact, all these artices sold by 
druggists and perfumers as necessary for the care of the person. 


DISTILLED WATERS AND OILS. 


Perfumes can be distilled by the use of a glass retort. A nap¬ 
kin wet with cold water should be placed about the tube and a 
receiver placed upon the*table. A lamp should be kept burning 
under the retort, removed far enough away to prevent the liquid 
running. It should pass drop by drop into the receiver, and 
when inclined to run the lamp should be moved farther from the 
retort. Stills for manufacturing perfumes can be purchased 
without difficulty, and are superior to the above contrivance 
All waters prepared for perfumeries should be distilled. 


Aromatic Water. — 1 . Coriander seed ground 5 ounces, star 
anise and cinnamon, of each. 5 ounces, cloves, nutmeg, and fresh 
orange peel, of each, 2*4 ounces; mix in a still with 12 pints of 
water and distill 8 pints. 2 . Oil of star anise, cinnamon, and 
coriander, of each 10 drops, oil of cloves, nutmeg, and orange, of 
each 5 drops, carbonate of magnesia 120 grains, water 2 pints; 
triturate the oil with the magnesia; add the whole quantity of 
water and filter, adding enough water through the filter to make 
the filtrate measure 2 pints. 

Cinnamon Water.— Powdered cinnamon 20 ounces, water 2 
gallons; distill 1 gallon. 

Orange Flower Water.— Orange flowers 12 pounds, water 
36 pounds; place the flowers in the water when it has nearly 
reached the boiling point in the still. 

Rose Water.— Roses 15 pounds, water 40 pounds; distil. 


Strawberry Water.— Bruised strawberries 4 pounds, water 
•gallon; macerate for 12 hours. Distil 6 pints. 


69 


L as 

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DEPARTMENT III. 

To Extract Ottar of Roses and Other Flowers.—Pro 

cure a quantity of the petals of any flowers which have an agree¬ 
able fragrance, card thin layers of cotton, which dip into the fin¬ 
est Florence or Lucca oil; sprinkle a small quantity of fine salt 
on the flowers alternately until an earthen vessel or wide 
mouthed glass bottle is full; tie the top close with a bladder, 
parchment, or rubber cloth; then lay the vessel in the heat of 
the sun, and in 15 days a fragraxt oil may be squeezed away 
equal to the high-priced essences. 


PERFUriES. 

Ambergris Tincture.— Ambergris 30 grains, orris powder 

1 dram, alcohol 8 ounces; powder the ambergris and orris to¬ 
gether; add the alcohol; macerate 30 days; filter. 

Benzoin Tincture.— Benzoin 2 ounces, alcohol 1 pint; mix. 
Civet Tincture.— Civet 30 grains, orris root powder 1 dram, 
alcohol 8 ounces; macerate 30 days; strain; filter. 

Coiog-ne. —Take 1 gallon 95 per cent alcohol or cologne spirits, 

2 ounces oil of bergamot, y 2 ounce orange, V 2 ounce oil of cedar, 
Vi dram oil of nevio, y 2 dram oil of rosemary; mix well and it is 
fit for use. A nice article. 

Cologne Water.— Oils of lemon and cedrat. of each 2 drams, 
oil of rosemary 1 dram, oil of bergamot 1 ounce, spirts of neroli 
2 fluid ounces, purest alcohol 5 fluid ounces. 

Cologne Water.— 1 . Oil of lavender 1 dram, oil of berga¬ 
mot 1 dram, oil of lemon 2 drams, oil of rosemary 2 drams, 
tincture of musk 50 drops, oil of cinnamon 8 drops, oil of cloves 
8 drops, alcohol 1 pint. 2. Take essences of bergamot and citron, 
of each 5 drams, essence of lemon 4 drams, essence of rosemary 
2V 2 drams, essence of orange flower 3 drops, alcohol 1 quart; 
mix together. Those who prefer a fuller perfume may add 5 
drams of lavender. 

'Floral Bouquet.— Musk tincture 2 ounces, orris, tonka and 
vanilla tinctures, of each 6 drams, ambergris tincture 1 ounce, 
rose spirits 4 ounces; mix. 

Florida Water.— Dissolve y 2 ounce of each of the oils of 
lemon, lavender and bergamot, y 2 dram each of the oils of cinna¬ 
mon and cloves in 1 quart of the best deodorized alcohol; add 2 
quarts of filtered water and bottle. 

Frangipanni.— Essence of vetiver 3 ounces, oil of neroli 15 
minims, oil of sandalwood y 2 dram, attar of roses 40 minims, 
essence of musk 3 drams, esprit de violette 3 ounces, essence of 
ambergris 6 drams, rectified spirits to make up 20 ounces. 

Frozen Perfume.— Take 2 ounces oil of lemon grass, y 2 
ounce oil of cloves and ounce oil of lavender flowers; mix 
them well together; for this amount of perfume you require 
about 4 quarts of melted paraffine; pour the oils into the melted 



















































TOILET ARTICLES, ETC. 


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71 


paraffine while warm, stirring it while pouring. This perfume 
is in a solid, transparent form, and by rubbing on the handker¬ 
chief it imparts an exquisite perfume; by carrying it in the 
pocket it perfumes the eutire wearing apparel; by keeping in a 
drawer or box all articles therein obtain the benefits of this 
perfume. 


Geraninm Water.— Oil of rose geranium and tincture of 
orris root, of each 1 ounce, tincture of musk 2 drams, alcohol 2 
pints, rose water 4 ounces. 

Genuine Royal Essence (for the handkerchief).— 1. Am¬ 
bergris 25 parts, musk 12 parts, civet 5 parts, oil of rose 2 parts, 
oil of cinnamon 3 parts, oil of wood of Rhodes 2 parts, oil of 
orange flowers 2 parts, carbonate of potash 6 parts, 90 degrees 
alcohol 860 parts; macerate 15 days and filter. 2. Oil of laven¬ 
der 3 fluid drams, oil of bergamot 3 fluid drams, extract of am¬ 
bergris 6 minims, camphor 1 grain, alcohol 1 pint; mix, shake 
well every day for 12 days; filter. 3. Oils of rosemary and 
lemon, of each y 2 ounce, bergamot and lavender, of each y 2 dram, 
cinnamon 4 drops, cloves and rose, of each 10 drops, alcohol 1 
quart; mix, and let stand 1 week. 


Heliotrope. —Orange flower essence and rose spirits, of each 
1 ounce, vetiver spirits 2 ounces, vanilla tincture 1 ounce, orris 
tincture 2 ounces, tonka tincture and orange flower spirits, of 
each 1 ounce, ambergris tincture 4 drams, sandalwood attar 10 
minims, clove attar 4 minims; mix. 


Jockey Club. —Spirits of wine 5 gallons, orange flower water 
1 gallon, balsam of Peru 4 ounces, essence of bergamot 8 ounces, 
essence of musk 8 ounces, essence of cloves 4 ounces, essence of 
neroli 2 ounces; mix. 


Kiss-Me-Q,nick.— Spirits 1 gallon, essence of thyme ounce, 
essence of orange flowers 2 ounces, essence of neroli y 2 ounce, 
attar of roses 30 drops, essence of jasmine 1 ounce, essence of 
balm mint y 2 ounce, petals of roses 4 ounces, oil of lemon 20 
drops, calorous aromaticus y 2 ounce, essence of neroli % ounce; 
mix and strain. 


Ladies’ Own.— Spirits of wine 1 gallon, attar of roses 20 
drops, essence of thyme y 2 ounce, essence of neroli % ounce, es¬ 
sence of vanilla y 2 ounce, essence of bergamot % ounce, orange 
flower water 6 ounces. 


Lavender Water. —Oils of lavender and bergamot, of each 
3 drams, attar of roses and oil of cloves, of each 6 drops, oil of 
rosemary and essence of musk, of each % dram, benzoic acid y 2 
dram, honey 1 ounce, alcohol 1 pint, esprit de roses 2 ounces; 
mix well, and keep till old. 


Lavender W T ater.— Take spirits of wine 1 pint, oil of laven¬ 
der y 2 ounce, oil of bergamot y 2 ounce, musk 12% cents’ worth; 
mix all together in a bottle, and shake it occasionally. The 
longer it is kept the better it becomes. 










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Lemon Essence.— Alcohol y s pint, fresh lemon peel 4 ounces; 
let it stand 1 month, strain and bottle. 

Moss Rose.— Rose spirits 3 ounces, orange flower essence 1 
ounce, ambergris tincture % ounce, musk tincture 2 drams; mix. 

Musk Extract.— Musk and civet tinctures, of each 2 ounces, 
attar of roses 10 minims, alcohol 1 ounce; mix. 

Musk Tincture.— Tonquin grain musk 1 dram, hot water 4 
drams, alcohol 1 pint; digest the musk in the hot water for 3 or 
4 hours, then add the alcohol and macerate for 30 days with oc¬ 
casional agitating; filter. 

New Mown Hay Extract. —Moss rose extract 1 ounce, ben¬ 
zoin tincture 1 ounce, tonka tincture 4 ounces, musk tincture 1 
ounce, attar of rose geranium 40 minims, ottar of bergamot 40 
minims, alcohol 1 ounce; mix, 

Orris Tincture.— Orris root powder 2 ounces, alcohol 4 
ounces; macerate the orris root for 7 days and filter, then per¬ 
colate the orris root with the alcohol sufficient to make 4 fluid 
ounces. 

Patchouli Extract.— Attar of patchouli 2 drams, attar of 
roses 20 minims, alcohol 15 ounces; mix. 

Rose Water (spirituous).—Procure a glass bottle with a 
wide mouth and ground glass stopper, fill % full with deodorized 
alcohol, add rose leaves until no more can be forced into the 
bottle, let it stand several months, keeping it air-tight; strain. 
White roses are the best. 

Rose Water.— Attar of roses 12 drops, rub it up with V% ounce 
of white sugar and 2 drams of carbonate of magnesia, then add 
gradually 1 quart of water and 2 ounces of proof spirits, and fil¬ 
ter through paper. Preferable to the distilled for a perfume, or 
for culinary purpose. t 

' Rose W T ater (artificial).—Attar of roses 25 drops, rub in with 
it 1 ounce of white sugar, powdered, and 4 drams carbonate of 
magnesia, add gradually y 2 gallon of water and 4 ounces of 
proof spirits. 

Superior Cologne Water.— Oil of lavender 2 drams, oil of 
rosemary 1)4 drams, oils of orange, lemon and bergamot, of each 
l dram, essence of musk 2 drams, attar of roses 10 drops, proof 
spirits 1 pint; shake all together thoroughly 3 times a day for 1 
week. 

Tuberose Extract.— Essence of tuberose 4 ounces, orris and 
ambergris tinctures, of each y 2 ounce; mix. i 

Upper Ten.— Spirits of wine 4 quarts, essence of cedrat 2 
drams, essence of violets H ounce, essence of neroli y 2 ounce, 
attar of roses 20 drops, orange flower essence l ounce, oil of 
rosemary 30 drops, oils of bergamot and neroli, of each y 2 ounce. 

Manilla Tincture.— Vanilla bean 6 Troy drams, alcohol 1 
pint; beat the vanilla to a coarse powder, macerate with gentle 





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TOILET ARTICLES, ETC. 


73 



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heat for 4 hours, filter, while macerating keep a wet towel over 
the mouth of the bottle using a water bath. 

Verbena Extract. —True attar of verbena 1 dram, attar of 
lemon 1 dram, alcohol 8 ounces; mix. 

Vetiver Essence. —Two pounds of the root of vetever (cut 
small), moisten with a little water, macerate for 24 hours, then 
beat in a marble mortar, macerate in sufficient alcohol to cover 
for 8 or 10 days, and strain with pressure; filter through paper 
and in a fortnight repeat the filtration. 

Violet Extract. —Violet essence 4 ounces, cassia essence 1 
ounce, rose essence 3 drams, orris tincture 1 ounce, ambergris 
and civet tinctures, of each, 2 drams, almond spirits 20 minims; 
mix. 

West End.— Rose spirit 3 ounces, benzoin and musk tinctures 
of each 1 ounce, verbena extract and civet tincture, of each l / 2 
ounce, sandalwood attar 10 minims; mix. 

W T liite Rose Extract. —Rose spirit 4 ounces, violet and ."jes¬ 
samine essence, of each 2 ounces, patchouly extract y 2 ounce; 
mix. 

Viang 1 Viang Extracts. — 1. Extract of jessamine 8 ounces, 
extract of rose 16 ounces, tincture of orris root 8 ounces, tinc¬ 
ture of civet 4 ounces, oil of ylang ylang 4 drams, alcohol 2 
pints. 2. Tincture of tonka beans 3 ounces, tincture of musk 
and extract of tuberose and cassia, of each 4 ounces, tincture of 
orris root 8 ounces, oil of orange (fresh) 2 dram neroli y 2 dram, 
alcohol q. s. to make 4 pints. 


DRY PERFUMES, SACHET POWDERS, ETC. 

Frangipanni.— Powdered violet root 3 pounds, powdered 
sandalwood pound, orange oil, rose oil, oil of sandalwood, of 
each 1 dram, pulverized musk 1 ounce, pulverized civet 2 drams. 

Incense.—1. Olibanum 2 or 3 parts, gum benzoin 1 part, 2. 
Olibanum 7 parts, gum benzoin 2 parts, cascarilla 1 part; on a 
hot plate or burned it exhales an agreeable perfume. 3. Styrax 
2% ounces, benzoin 12 ounces, musk 15 grains, burnt sugar y 2 
ounce, frankincense 2)4 ounces, gum tragacanth 1% ounces, rose¬ 
water sufficient to form a mass to be divided into small tablets. 

Pastels for Burning, Deodorizing, Etc.—1. Benzoin 4 

ounces, cascarilla )4 ounce, niter and gum arabic, of each 3 
drams, myrhh 1 dram, oils of nutmegs and cloves, of each 25 
drops, charcoal 7 ounces, all in fine powder; beat to a smooth 
ductile mass; with cold water form into small cones with a tri¬ 
pod base and dry in the air or dip thin sticks of pine into the 
mass and permit to dry. 2. Yellow sanders 3 ounces, styrax 4 
ounces, benzoin 3 ounces, olibanum 6 ounces, cascarilla 6 ounces, 
ambergris 1 dram, Peruvian balsam 2 drams, myrrh 1% ounce, 
A iter 1)4 ounces, oil of cinnamon 20 drops, oil of cloves y 2 dram. 






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DEPARTMENT lit. 


74 


attar 30 to 60 drops, oil of lavender 1% drams, balsam of tolu 1 V 2 
ounces, camphor V 2 ounce, strong acetic acid 2 ounces, charcoal 
3 pounds; mix; beat into a paste with a mucilage of tragacauth 
and form into conical pastels. This is the finest deodorizer 
known. 

Rose Powder.— Pulverized rose leaves 1 pound, pulverized 
sandalwood l / 2 pound, rose oil 2 drams. 

Sachet Powder, Cassia.— Flowers of acacia farnesiana and 
powdered orris root equal parts; mix. 

Sachet, Heliotrope.— Take of powdered orris root 2,000 
parts, rosa centifolia 1,000 parts, tonka bean 500 parts, cut va¬ 
nilla bean 250 parts, powdered musk 10 parts, essential oil of 
bitter almonds 1 part; pound the musk and vanilla bean to¬ 
gether and add the I'est; pass through a not too close sieve. An 
excellent imitation of heliotrope. 

Satehet Lavender.- Take of powdered lavender 75 parts, 
powdered benzoin 20 parts, oil of lavender 1 part. 

Satehet a la Mareschale. —Take of sandalwood and orris 
root, of each 280 parts, rosa centifolia. cloves and cassia bark 
(laurus cassia), of each 140 parts, musk 1 part; powder coarsely. 

Satehet Millefleurs.— Lavender flowers, ground orris root, 
rose leaves and benzoin, of each 1 pound, tonka beans, vanilla, 
sandalwood and ground cloves, of each % pound, cinnamon and 
allspice, of each 2 ounces, mustard and civet, of each 2 drams. 

Satehet for Perfuming Linen.—Orris root and rosa cen- 
oifolia, of each 125 parts, nutmegs 8 parts, granular musk 15 
parts; powder coarsely and mix. 

Inexhaustible Smelling’ Salts.— Sal tartar 3 drams, 
muriate of ammonia, granulated, 6 drams, oil of neroli 5 min¬ 
ims, oil of lavender flowers 5 minims, oil of rose 3 minims, spir¬ 
its of ammonia 15 minims; put into the pungent a small piece 
of sponge filling about the space, and pour on it a due propor¬ 
tion of the oils, then put, in the mixed salts until the bottle is \ 
full, and pour on the spirits of ammonia in proper proportion 
and close the bottle. 

Violet Powder.— Wheat starch 6 parts, orris root powder 2 
parts; having reduced the starch to an impalpable powder, mix 
thoroughly with the orris root and then perfume with attar of 
iemon, attar of bergamot and attar of cloves, using twice as 
much the lemon as of each of the other attai's. 

Volatile Salts for Pungents.—1. Liquor of ammonia fort 
1 pint, oil of lavender flowers 1 dram, oil of rosemary, fine, 1 
dram, oil of bergamot y 2 dram, oil of peppermint 10 minims; 
mix thoroughly and fill pungents or keep in well-stoppered bot¬ 
tle. 2. Sesqui-carbonate of ammonia, small pieces, 10 ounces, 
concentrated liquor of ammonia 5 ounces; put the sesqui-car¬ 
bonate in a wide mouth jar with air-tight stopper, perfume the 
liquor of ammonia to suit and pour over the carbonate, close 
tightly the lid and place in a cool place, stir with a stiff spatula 


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TOILET ARTICLES, ETC. 

every other day for 1 week, and then keep it closed for 2 weeks, 
or until it becomes hard, when it is ready for use. 

Excellent Scent Pow der.— Coriander,orris root, rose leaves 
and aromatic calamus, of each 1 ounce, lavender flowers 10 
ounces, rhodium *4 dram, musk 5 grains; these are to be mixed 
and reduced to a coarse powder. This is one of the cheapest, 
most durable and satisfactory dry perfumes made; it scents 
clothes as though flowers had been pressed in their folds. 


SKIN PREPARATIONS. 

These preparations include pastes, washes, powders and oint¬ 
ments for the face and hands. The best known, harmless and 
effectual. 

Almond Paste. —Bleached almonds 4 ounces; add the white 
of 1 egg; beat the almonds to a smooth paste in a mortar, then 
add the white of egg, and enough rose water mixed with its 
weight of alcohol to give the proper consistence. Used as a cos¬ 
metic to beautify the complexion, and is also a remedy for chap¬ 
ped hands, etc. 

Almond Paste for tlie Hands.— Beat 4 ounces of bitter 
almonds, add 3 ounces of lemon juice. 3 ounces oil of almonds, 
and enough of alcohol and ether diluted to make a paste. Apply 
od retiring. 

Black Spots on the Face.— These are sometimes called 
Flesh worms. Squeeze out the spot, then wash the part affected 
with diluted alcohol several times a day. If the trouble comes 
from flesh worms take some blood purifier. {See Draughts and 
Infusion.) 

Blotched Face, Wash For.— Rose water 3 ounces, sulphate 
°>f zinc 1 dram; mix and wet the face; gently dry it, and then 
touch it over with cold cream, which also dry off gently. 

Chapped Hands, Ointments and El aliments For.—1. 
Borax 2 scruples, glycerine Vi ounce, water 714 ounces; mix and 
apply as a lotion twice a day. 2. Glycerine 1 ounce: spermaceti 
2 drams; olive oil 2 ounces; mix with heat and apply every night 
and morning. 3 . Take 14 pound unsalted hog's lard, work it 
well through clear, cold water, drain and work again in a wine¬ 
glass of rose water, the yolks of 2 fresh eggs and 1 tablespoonful 
of honey: mix gradually as much finely powdered oatmeal as 
will make a paste about the consistency of new butter; spread 
on the hands at night; cover with kid gloves, and in the morn¬ 
ing wash off. 4 . Lard 16 parts, coca oil 24 parts, spermaceti 8 
parts; yellow wax 3 parts, alkanet root 1 part; melt and keep 
at a gentle heat 15 minutes; strain through a cloth and mix 
with oil of lemon and oil of bergamot each 1-6 parts, oil of bitter 
almonds 1 to 15 parts; pour into suitable vessels and cork. 

Chapped Lips, Liniments and Ointments for.—1, 
Two spoonfuls of clarified honey, a few drops of any perfume; 



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mix and anoint the lips frequently. 2. Cut 4 ounces fresh un¬ 
salted butter into small pieces, place in an earthen vessel, cover 
with rose water, cover the vessel closely and stand aside for 5 
days in cool place, then drain off any remaining liquid and put 
the earthen jar in a saucepan of warm water, add 1 ounce of 
grated spermaceti, 1 ounce of grated beeswax. y 2 ounce of alkanet 
root, 2 drams of pulverized gum benzoin, 1 ounce of pulverized 
borax, y 2 ounce of powdered white sugar and 1 tablespoonful of 
clear lemon juice; beat all well together and place over a slow 
fire, stirring until it reaches the boiling point, remove from the 
fire before it boils and when coal put in jars. 

Cold Cream.— 1. White wax y 2 ounce, put in small basin wiih 
2 ounces of almond oil; when quite melted add 2 ounce of rose¬ 
water: this must be done very slowly, little by little, and as you 
pour it in beat the mixture smartly with a fork to make the rose 
water incorporate; when all this is incorporated the cold cream 
is complete. 2. Spermaceti 10 drams, white wax 10 drams, pre¬ 
pared lard 8 ounces, subcarbonate potash 15grains, rosewater 4 
ounces, spirits of wine 2 ounces, attar of roses 10 drops. 3. Take 
of the oil of almonds 2 ounces, spermaceti y 2 ounce, and white 
wax y 2 ounce; put them in a close vessel and set the vessel in a 
skillet of boiling water; when melted beat the ingredients with 
rosewater until cold. Keep it in a tight box or wide-mouthed 
bottle, corked up close. 

Complexion Paste,— The following is the recipe for the 
paste by the use of which Madame Vestris is said to have pre¬ 
served her beauty until very late in life; it is applied to the face 
on retiring for the night: The white of 4 eggs boiled in rose¬ 
water, y 2 ounce alum, % ounce oil of sweet almonds; beat the 
whole together till it assumes the consistence of a paste. 

To Remove Fleshworms.— Sometimes little black specks 
appear about the base of the nose, or on the forehead, or in the 
hollow of the chin, which are called fleshwbrms; are occasioned 
by coagulated secretion that obstructs the pores of the skin; they 
may be squeezed out by gentle pressing; they are permanently re¬ 
moved by washing with warm water and severe friction with a 
towel, and then applying a little of the following preparation; 
Liquor of potassa 1 ounce, cologne 2 ounces, white brandy 4 
ounces The warm water and friction alone are sometimes suffi¬ 
cient. 

Freckle Compouml.-The so-called “ Unction de Mainte- 
non. after the celebrated Madame de Maintenon, mistress and 
wife of Louis XIV., is made as follows: Venice soap 1 ounce 
lemon juice y 2 ounce, oil of bitter almonds % ounce, deliquidated 
oil of tartar ounce, oil of rhodium 3 drops. 

Freckle Wash.— One dram of muriatic acid, half pint of 
rainwater, half teaspoonful of spirit lavender; mix them well 
together and apply 2 or 3 times a day to the freckles with a 
camel’s-hair brush. 

Celebrated Moth and Freckle IiOtion,— For the skin 




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and complexion. Distill 2 handsful of jessamine flowers in a 
quart of rose water and a quart of orange water; strain 
through porous paper and add a scruple of musk and a 
scruple of ambergris; bottle and label. Splendid wash for the 
skin. 

Freckles, To Remove.— 1. Ox gall 6 ounces, camphor iy 2 
scruples, burned alum 1 y 2 scruples, borax 1 dram, rock salt 2 
ounces, rock candy 2 ounces. 2 . Take grated horseradish and 
put in very sour milk; let it stand 4 hours, then wash the face 
night and morning. 3. Rectified spirits 1 ounce, water 8 ounces, 
orange-flower water y 2 ounce or rosewater 1 ounce, distilled mu¬ 
riatic acid 1 teaspoonful; mix To be used after washing. 4 . 
Lemon juice 1 ounce, powdered borax dram, sugar % dram; 
mix and let stand in a glass bottle for a few days, then rub on 
face and hands night and morning. Two teaspoonsful of lemon 
juice equal 1 ounce. 5. Sulpho-carbolate of zinc 2 drams, glycer¬ 
ine 3 fluid ounces, alcohol y 2 fluid ounce, rosewater q. s. for 8 
fluid ounces. 

Mask, To Remove.— This frightful discoloration can be re¬ 
moved by a wash made from 30 grains of chlorate of potash in 
8 ounces of rose water. 

Moles, To Remove.— The common mole is situated in the 
middle layer of the skin, the coloring matter is probably some 
chemical combination of iron; they are often elevated above the 
surface and then the natural down of the skin over them is 
changed into a tuft of hair; the less they are trifled with the 
better, and avoid particularly the use of depilatories to remove 
the hair from them, as it often causes a foetid, suppurating 
wound; when slight, they may be removed by touching them 
every day with a little concentrated acetic acid by means of a 
hair pencil, observing due care to prevent the application from 
spreading to the surrounding parts; the application of lunar 
c mstic is also effective, but it turns the spot temporarily black; 
when other means fail, the hair may be safely removed by sur¬ 
gical means; they can also be removed with a sunglass: seat the 
patient in a clear, strong sunlight, bring the concentrated rays 
of the sun to bear on the mole 5 or 10 minutes, in 3 or 4 weeks 
the mole will scale off and new skin form. 

Motftle Patches, To Remove.— Wash with a solution of 
common bicarbonate of soda and water several times during the 
day until the patches are removed; after the process wash with 
some nice toilet soap and the skin will be kept nice, clean and 
free from patches; lemon juice is good rubbed on the skin. 

Pimples, To Remove.— 1. Barley meal 1 ounce, powdered 
hitter almonds 1 ounce, honey q. s. to make a smooth paste. 2. 
White vinegar 4 ounces, sulphur water 2 ounces, acetated liquor 
of ammonia y 2 ounce, liquor or potassa 2 grains, distilled water 
4 ounces; mix and apply twice a day. 3. Beat a quantity of 
houseleek in a marble mortar, squeeze out the juice and clarify 
it,, pour a few drops of rectified spirits on the juice and it will 
instantly turn milky. 


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DEPARTMENT III 


Pitting*, To Remove.— Simple oil, pomade or ointment 
medicated with croton oil and of a strength sufficient to raise a 
very slight postular eruption is probably the safest and most 
effective of all preparations employed for the purpose; apply at 
intervals extending over several weeks. 


POWDERS, PAINTS AND WASHES FOR THE COMPLEXION. 

Powder for tlie Complexion.—1. Tincture of elder blos¬ 
soms 54 ounce, beef marrow 54 ounce, orange flower water 54 
pint, cassia buds 1 ounce, bitter almonds 2 ounces, spirits of 
oriental roses 4 drams; mix, and apply it in the evening and 
wash it off in the morning. 2. Rice powder 1 pound, lake car¬ 
mine 2 drams, essence of rose 9 grains, essence of santal 9 
grains; mix well. 

Malorrisine.— Pulverized marshmallow root 4 ounces, pul¬ 
verized starch 2 ounces, pulverized orris root 3 drams, essence 
jasmine 20 drops; mix well, and sift through muslin. This ele¬ 
gant compound is excellent for softening and whitening the skin, 
and will prevent chapping. It may be used on the most sensi¬ 
tive and delicate complexions without fear of injury, and is one 
of the best cosmetics made. 

Rose Powder.- Sifted starch. 1 ounce, rose pink, 54 dram, 
essence jasmine 10 drops, attar of roses 3 drops. This powder 
is better liked than rouge for imparting a delicate coloring to the 
skin, and as it is perfectly harmless, it may be used as often as 
necessary. 

Paste for Oily Complexions.—1. Cold cream, 1 ounce, ace¬ 
tate of zinc 2 grains; pertume as preferred. 2. Bicarbonate 
of soda 18 grains, aqua desiilata 8 ounces, essence of roses 
quantity sufficient. 3. A good cosmetic for a fine, delicate com¬ 
plexion which cannot bear greasy pomades, is the following pre¬ 
paration: Milk of almonds 8 ounces, ammonia chlorhydrate 2 
grains, bichloride nydrargyri, 2 grains. 

Mills, of Roses.— Blanched almonds 2 ounces, rosewater 12 
ounces, rectified spirits, 3 ounces, Windsor soap, white wax, oil 
of almonds, of each 2 drams, oil of bergamot. 1 dram, oil of 
lavender 15 drops, attar of roses 8 drops. To prepare this com¬ 
pound beat the almonds well, add rosewater for an emulsion; 
mix the soap, wax and oils together, rub the mixture in a mor¬ 
tar, and strain through fine muslin. A reliable druggist will 
prepare this recipe properly, if thought too difficult for home 
manufacture. ■* 

‘Color for Ups. —Color for the lips is nothing more than 
cold cream with a larger quantity of wax than usual melted in 
it wirh a few drams of carmine for Vermillion tint. Use a strong 
injusion of alkanet: keep the chippings for 1 week in the almond 
oil of which the cold cream is made, and afterwards incorporate 
with wax and spermaceti; always tie alkanet in a muslin bag 
when it is needed for coloring. 




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Lip Salve.—1. Spermaceti ointment 54 pound, alkanet root 
14 ounce; melt together until colored; strain and, when cooled a 
little, add balsam of peru 3 drams; stir well, and in a few min¬ 
utes pour off the clear portion from the drugs; lastly stir in oil 
of cloves 20 to 30 drops. 2. Oil of almonds 3 ounces, spermaceti 
54 ounce, virgin rice 54 ounce; melt over a slow fire, mixing with 
them a little powder of alkanet root to color it; stir till cold and 
add a few drops of oil of rhodium. 3. Dissolve a small lump of 
white sugar in a tablespoonful of rosewater (common water will 
do, but is not so good); mix it with a couple of large spoonsful of 
sweet oil, a piece of spermaceti of the size of half a butternut; 
simmer the whole well together 8 or 10 minutes, then turn into 
a small box. 


Pearl Powder.- The best white is literally pearl powder; 
that is. made from pearls, and this is as safe as its effects are 
natural and beautiful. A most dangerous compound of bismuth 
Is, however, sold under this name. The following is a good 
recipe: Pure pearl white and French chalk (scraped fine) equal 
parts, triturated together. Some add more French chalK. 

Pearl Water for tlie Complexion.— Castile soap 1 pound, 
water 1 gallon; dissolve them; add alcohol 1 quart, oil of rose¬ 
mary and oil of lavender, of each 2 drams; mix well. 

Remove Pimples.— There are many kinds of pimples, some 
of which partake almost of the nature of ulcers, which require 
medical treatment, but the small red pimple, which is the most 
common, may be removed by applying the following twice a 
lay: Sulphur water 1 ounce, acetated liquor of ammonia 54 
ounce, solution of potassa 54 ounce, white wine vinegar 2 ounces, 
distilled water 2 ounces. These pimples are sometimes cured by 
frequent washing in warm water and prolonged friction with a 
coarse towel. The cause of these pimples is obstruction of the 
skin and imperfect circulation. 

Roiiffe.-l. Mix vermilion with enough gum tragacanth dis¬ 
solved in water to form a thin paste; add a few drops of almond 
oil, place in rouge pots, and dry by very gentle heat. 2. (Turk¬ 
ish.) Alcohol 54 pint, alkanet 1 ounce; macerate 10 days, pour 
off the liquid and bottle. 3. (Vinegar.) Acetic acid 4 drams, alum 
30 grains, rosewater 12 ounces, alcohol 26 ounces, balsam of 
peru 50 grains, carmine No. 40 2 drams, water of ammonia 1 
dram; dissolve the balsam of peru in the alcohol and the alum 
in the rosewater; mix the two solutions; add the acetic acid and 
macerate for a few hours; add to it the carmine dissolved in the 
ammoma; shake well and after 10 minutes decant the bottle. 


Skin Pomades.—1. When the skin is dry, rough, and spotted 
the following pomades will be found excellent: Spermaceti 1 
dram and 1 scruple, oil of bitter almonds 1 scruple, galien cerate 
1 ounce. 2. Mutton suet 2 drams, fresh butter 4 drams, lard 4 
drams, oil of bitter almonds 1 dram; wash in rosewater and add 
enough white wax to make a paste. 

Preventive Wash for Sunburn.— Borax 2 drams, Roman 




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DEPARTMENT III. 

alum 1 dram, camphor 1 dram, sugar y 2 ounce, ox-gall 1 pound; 
mix and stir well together, and repeat the stirring 3 or 4 times 
a day until the mixture becomes transparent, then strain it 
through filtering paper, and it is fit for use. 

Lemon Cream for Sunburn, Etc. —Put 2 spoonfuls of 
fresh cream into y 2 pint of new milk, squeeze into it the juice of 
a lemon, and half a glass of brandy, a little alum and loaf sugar; 
boil the whole, skim it well, and when cool it is fit for use. 



SPECIAL PREPARATIONS OP GREAT MERIT. 

Bloom of Roses.—1. Dried red rose leaves iy 2 ounces, boil¬ 
ing water 1 pint; infuse in earthenware vessel for 2 hours, press 
out the liquor and add juice of 3 lemons, the next day filter the 
clear portions, keep in a cool place; a little alcohol, 3 or 4 fluid 
ounces to the pint, is sometimes added, and improves it. 2. 
Carmine 14 ounce, strong liquor of ammonia, not weaker than 
900, 1 ounce; put them into a stoppered bottle, set in a cool 
place and occasionally agitate for 2 or 3 days to effect a solution; 
then add rose water 1 pint, and after admixture add of esprit de 
rose y 2 fluid ounce, pure rectified spirits 1 fluid ounce; agitate 
well and set aside for a week; lastly, decant the clear portion 
from the dregs for use. 

.Balm of Beauty.— Pure soft water 1 quart, pulverized cas- 
tile soap 4 ounces, emulsion of bitter almonds 6 ounces, rose and 
orange flower waters, of each 8 ounces, tincture of benzoin 2 
drams, borax 1 aram, add 5 grains bichloride of mercury to 
every 8 ounces of the mixture; to use, apply on a linen or cotton 
cloth to the face; an excellent preparation. 

Bloom of Youth.— Boil 1 ounce Brazil wood in 3 pints of 
water 15 minutes, strain; then add % ounce isinglass, 14 ounce 
cochineal, 1 ounce alum, y 2 ounce borax; dissolve by heat and 
strain. 

IiPinon Juice Eotion.— Fresh lemon juice 2 ounces, glycer¬ 
ine 1 ounce, rose water or rain water, with 3 or 4 drops of attar 
of roses added, 1 pint; anoint the hands and face 3 or 4 times 
daily, allow to remain on several minutes before wiping. 

Wrinkles, To Remove.—1. Sulphate of alumine 1 scruple 
16 grains, pure water y 2 pint; mix, and bathe the face 3 times a 
day. 2. Fresh butter 2 drams, essence of turpentine 2 drams, 
mastic 1 dram. 


PREPARATIONS FOR THE HANDS, NAILS AND FEET. 

If the use of soaps irritates the skin and produces roughness 
and cracks, use honey instead. Rub it on when the skin is dry. 
Moisten a little, rub it in well, then wash thoroughly and your 
hands will be perfectly clean. 

To Soften the Hands.— To 



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TOILET ARTICLES, ETC. 

born^- h waS 1 JiP f fi ne . w ^ lte sand and soap suds as hot as can be 
rnhhfno-rw,^ Jl ands u } th J, s 5 minu tes at a time, washing and 
A hem m tbe sand - The best is theliintsand or the white 

nourin^ e ?hp U wot Z so d for ? lters * Tt ma y be used repeatedly by 
L e Altfri?i wSi^J ay h after each washin £ and adding fresh to 
v? 1 b lo ' vi ng about; rinse m warm lather of fine soan 

them ^rid^n^b yA inds wl , th dry bran or cornmeal, dust 

Wlth rubbiQ g cold cream well into the skin. 
Thib effectually removes the roughness caused by housework 
sb °nld be used every day, first removing ink or vegetable 
stains with some one of the following preparations: 

Stains, To Remove.—1, Fruit and ink stains may be taken 

oxaHo hands in water slightly acidulated with 

oxalic acid oi a few drops of oil of vitriol, or to which a little 

?hPi!wpir chloride of lime has been added; afterwards rinse 
them well m warm, clean water, and do not touch soap for some 
hours, as any alkline matter will bring back the stains IfS? 

last 1 a^Wash fh?hISd b ^ all i° f the above substances except the 
last. 2. Wash the hands m clear water, wipe them linhtlv and 

Sch ;r S ‘ S \ rike A matcb ’ closin S tb * b ands above ft so as to 
? a ^ b tb ® smoke; the stains wull disappear. 3. Rubbing the 
hands with a slice of raw potato will remove vegetable stains 
4 . Damp the hands first li water, then rub them with tana?ie 
acid as you would with soap, rinse them and rub dry. 

S® ft « n Hands.— 2. Keep a dish of Indian meal on the 

stand nea V tbe soap and rub the meal freely on the hands 
aftei soaping them for washing. It will surprise you if von 
have not tried it, to find how it will cleanse and soften the skin. 

Soften the Hands.— 3. Before retiring take a large pair of 
gloves and spread mutton tallow inside, also all over the hands- 
f?? ves ab pight and wash the hands with olive oil and 
white castile soap in the morning; after cleansing the hands 
With soap rub them well with oatmeal while still wet; honey is 

ill S atTfight °° d US6d m the same way as lem on juice, well rubbed 

Paste to Whiten the Hands, Used With Gloves.-l. 

l, abe /z soa P' a gill of salad oil, an ounce of mutton 

tallow, and boil them until thoroughly mixed; before the mix¬ 
ture is cold add 1 gill of spirits of wdne and 1 grain of musk 2 
Half ounce vvhite wax. V ? ounce of spermaceti /\ ounce powdered* 
camphor, mix them wuth as much olive oil as will form them 
into a very stiff paste. Use whenever the hands are washed . £ 
Mixture of 2 parts glycerine. 1 part ammonia, and a little rose¬ 
water whiten and soften the hands. 

For Chapped and Rongh Hands.— The following wash 
will prove of great benefit, and wall remedy the trouble if used 
kmg enough: Lemon juice 3 ounces, white wine vinegar 3 ounces 
white brandy y 2 pint. Another remedy for chapped hands in the 
form of an ointment is made by melting together gum camp ho? 

3 drams, white beeswax 3 drams, olive oil 2 ouncesf apply before 








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DEPARTMENT III. 

going to bed and wear gloves. Many women are annoyed by red, 
dry, and rough hands, with surfaces that are continually made 
worse by exposure and the use of soap and water. Bran water 
and almond paste are good for such skins. Always use warm 
water and mild soap, taking care to dry thoroughly. Chapped 
and cracked hands may be cured by anointing them with the fol¬ 
lowing mixture and wearing gloves while sleeping; White wax 4 
drams, olive oil 2 drams, spermaceti 18 grains. 

Nails, Wash for.—1. Tincture myrrh 1 dram, diluted sul¬ 
phuric acid 2 drams, spring water 4 ounces; mix. Cleanse the 
nails with white soap, then dip into wash. 2. When the nails 
are stained and discolored a little lemon juice or vinegar and 
water is a good application; occasionally a little pumice stone 
in powder or a little putty powder may be used with water and 
a little piece of soft leather or flannel; the frequent employment 
of these substance is injurious to the healthy growth of the nails. 

To Color the Nails.— Fine color may be given to the nails 
after washing with scented soap, by rubbing them with a mix¬ 
ture of equal parts of cinnabar and emery, followed by oil of bit¬ 
ter almonds. White specks may be removed by applying equal 
parts of pitch and turpentine melted together in a cup, adding 
powdered sulphur and vinegar; pitch and myrrh will effect the 
same result. Do not cut the nails too short; they should be pol- 
isned by rubbing with a sponge dipped into cinnabar and 
emery. Many persons are obliged to cut their nails often, be¬ 
cause of brittleness and breaking. The nails may be toughened 
by anointing them at night with this compound: Tar 18 grains, 
lard 1 ounce, mix. Wear gloves over night, and wash thor¬ 
oughly with warm water and soap on arising. 

Offensive Feet, Wash For. — 1. Wash the feet in warm 
water to which a little hydrochloric acid or chloride of lime has 
been added. 2. Bathe every night or oftener in a strong solu¬ 
tion of borax. 3. Bathe in a weak solution of permanganate of 
potash, 1 scruple of salt to 8 ounces of water. 4. Common 
kitchen soda dissolved in water. 

Powder for Feet.—1. A good deodorizer for unpleasant 
smelling feet is the following: A mixture of equal parts salicylic 
acid, soap, talc, and starch, to be applied in the form of powder. 
2. For excessive perspiration of the hands and feet the follow¬ 
ing is recommended; Carbolic acid 1 part, burnt alum 4 parts, 
starch 200 parts, French chalk 50 parts, oil of lemon 2 parts; 
make into a fine powder to apply to the hands or feet, or to be 
sprinkled inside the gloves or stockings. 

Corns.— For several reliable medicines see “Tested Remedies” 
in Department I. The following is as good as anything that can 
be used: Salicylic acid 1 dram; cut the corn with a sharp knife; 
apply the acid; cover with a piece of court plaster. In 3 days re¬ 
move the plaster and the corn will come with it. They may also 
be removed by the following preparation: White diachylon plas¬ 
ter plaster 4 ounces, shoemaker’s wax 4 ounces, muriatic acid 60 


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drops; boil a few minutes in an earthenware vessel; when cold 
roll the mass by hand and apply a little on a piece of soft, thin 
leather. Soft corns may be cured by wrapping the afflicted toe 
with a soft linen rag, which has been saturated with turpentine, 
night and morning; in a few days the corn will disappear; relief, 
however, will be instantaneous. Care should always be taken to 
have the shoes sufficiently wide, but equal care should be exer¬ 
cised not to have them too loose. 


PREPARATIONS FOR THE HAIR AND BEARD. 


OILS, TONICS, DYES, RESTORATIVES AND WASHES. 

Preparations for the hair are classified under the heads of ton¬ 
ics, restoratives, and washes to promote the growth and keep 
clean; depilatories for removing superflous hair; dyes and 
bleaches, oils, pomades, and fluid for curling, etc. Included un¬ 
der the department for beards will be found some excellent reci¬ 
pes for forcing the growth, soaps for shaving, with some hints 
on the proper use and care of the razor and strap, pomades and 
articles used in the toilet. 


03 



OILS. 

Baldness, For.— Boil y 2 pound green Southern wood in iy 2 
pints sweet oil, add y 2 pint port wine; strain through a fine linen 
bag 3 times, each time adding fresh Southern wood; then add 
2 ounces bear’s grease and replace near the fire in a covered ves¬ 
sel until the bear’s grease is dissolved; mix and bottle close. 

Bear’s. —Cotton-seed oil 15 gals., oil of fennel 3 ozs., oil of 
lavender 2 ozs., oil of citronella 3 ozs.. oil of cloves 3 ozs. 

Brilliantine.— castor oil in eau de cologne 1 part in 4. or 
glycerine and eau de cologne, each I part, honey 2 parts, rectified 
spirits 4 parts, 

Cocoanut.- Cocoanut fat 2 l / 2 pounds, castor oil 1 gallon, 
alcohol 1 ounce, oil of lavender 4 ounces, oil of cloves 2 ounces, 
oil of cinnamon 2*4 ounces, oil of rose geranium 2 drams, melt 
the cocoanut fat at a gentle heat; add castor oil, mix thor¬ 
oughly; add alcohol and perfume. 

Colorings for Oil.— A red tinge is given to oils by allowing 
the oil to stand for a few hours over a little alkaiiet root, 2 
drams to 1 pint; before scenting apply a gentle heat to facili¬ 
tate the process. Yellow and orange are given by a little an- 
natto or palm oil, and green by steeping a little green parsley 
or lavender in them for a few days, or by dissolving 2 or 3 drams 
of gum guaiacum in each pint by the aid heat, and when cold 
decanting. 















































DEPARTMENT IU 


84 

French Bustral.— Take castor oil 3 ounces, alcohol 1)4 
ounces, ammonia 1-16 ounce; well shaken and mixed together; 
perfume to suit—bergamot or any other perfume; splendid hair 
dressing. 

Glycerine.— New rum 1 quart, concentrated spirits of am¬ 
monia 15 drops, glycerine oil 1 ounce, lac. sulphur 5)4 drams, 
sugar of lead 5 y 2 drams; put the liquor into a bottle, add the 
ammonia, then the other components; shake occasionally for 4 
or 5 days. 

Hair Oil.— Cologne spirits, 90 per cent proof, 1 gallon, castor 
oil 1 ounce, oil of cinnamon 1 ounce; mix well and it is fit 
for use. 

Lyons’ Kathairon.— Castor oil 2 gallons, alcohol 3 gallons; 
(nix; tincture of cantharide (officinal) 10 ounces, bergamot 12 
ounces; dissolve in alcohol; tincture of red sanders (strength 1 
pound to 5 gallons 95 per cent alcohol) 4 ounces to 30 gallons. 

Macassar.— Olive oil 1 quart, alcohol 2 y 2 ounces, rose oil 1 y 2 
ounces; then tie 1 ounce of chipped alkanet root in a muslin bag 
and put it in the oil; let stand some days until it turns red, then 
remove; do not press. 

Marrow.—1. Simple marrow oil scented to suit taste. 2. 
Marrow oil 4 ounces, spirits of rosemary 4)4 ounces, oil of nut¬ 
meg 12 drops. 3. Cold drawn nut oil and marrow oil equal 
parts; scent. 

New York Barber’s Star Hair Oil. —Castor oil 6)4 pints, 
alcohol 1)4 pints, oil of citronella l / 2 ounce, lavender ounce; 
mix well. 

To Make the Hair Soft and Glossy. —Alcohol 1 pint, 
castor oil 4ounces; mix and flavor with bergamot; apply fre¬ 
quently with the hands. 


HAIR RESTORATIVES, TONICS AND WASHES. 

Ammonia.— 1 . When the hair has been neglected, cut it to 
an even length and wash the scalp nightly with soft water into 
which ammonia has been poured; this may be strong, so it does 
not burn the skin; afterward put 3 large spoonfuls of ammonia 
to a basm of water, apply with a brush, stirring the hair well; 
dry thoroughly, comb and shake out the tresses until nearly dry, 
then it may be done up loosely. One teaspoonful of ammonia to 

1 pint of warm water makes a wash that may be used on a 
child’s head daily. 2. To wash the head thoroughly, drop about 

2 ounces of ammonia into a basin of lukewarm water and soap; 
if the hair is long, braid it in 6 or 7 loose braids, some coming 
to the top of the head, and tie firmly; take a raw egg and rub 
vigorously into the scalp in every part. This is one of the best 
remedies for removal of dandruff. After rubbing in the egg 
wash the head in the water and ammonia with a little castile 
soap, wring the braids out and dry with a towel; then after the 
hair is dry, comb out and brush. Cara should be taken to go in 

























































TOILET ARTICLES, ETC. 85 

no draughts while the hair is wet; the ammonia helps it to di*y 
quickly. 

Dry ami Brittle Hair may be made soft and brilliant by 
the use of the following formula: Oil of roses 2 ounces, oil of 
tube looses 2 drams, oil of orange flower 2 drams, oil of jessamine 
2 drams, oil of vanilla 1 ounce, essence of almonds 1 drop. 

Dandruff is increased by the use of pomades, and those 
whose hair is naturally oily should abstain from their use. To 
remove dandruff: 1. Water 8 ounces, carbonate of soda 1 dram: 
dissolve, and add yolks of 2 eggs well beaten. 2. Chlorate of 
potash 2 scruples, rose water 8 ounces. Dandruff may be en¬ 
tirely removed by the use of the following mixture: Take a 
thimbleful of powdered refined borax, let it dissolve in a teacup¬ 
ful of water; first brush the head well, and then wet a brush 
with the solution, and rub the scalp well with it. Do this every 
day for a week, and twice a week, until no trace of dandruff is 
found. 

Falling' Out, To Prevent.— 1 . Sherry wine y z pint, elder 
water y z pint, tincture of arnica y z ounce, spirits hartshorn 1 tea¬ 
spoonful; apply with a sponge every night. 2. JL ix 1 ounce gum 
camphor and 2 ounces pulverized borax; pour over it 2 quarts 
boiling water: when cold, bottle and keep tightly corked; apply 
night and morning, rubbing it briskly into the scalp. 

Gray Hair, To Prevent.— Hulls of butternuts 4 ounces; in¬ 
fuse in 1 quart of water 1 hour; add y z ounce copperas; apply 
with a soft brush every 2 or 3 days. When sea air turns hair 
gray, it should be kept oiled with some vegetable oil; not gly¬ 
cerine, as that combines with water too readily. The water that 
potatoes have been boiled in applied to the hair prevents gray¬ 
ness. 

Hair Restoratives.— 1. An excellent stimulant and restora¬ 
tive for the hair is the following: Add y z ounce of the oil of 
mace to % of a pint of deodorized alcohol; pour a spoonful or 
two into a saucer, dip a small, stiff brush into it, and brush the 
hair smoothly, rubbing the tincture well into the roots. 2. On 
bald spots, if hair will start at all, it may be stimulated by rub¬ 
bing the scalp with a piece of flannel till the skin looks red, and 
anointing it with the above tincture. This process must be re¬ 
peated 3 or 4 times a day for weeks, then the hair begins to grow; 
apply the tincture once a day till the growth is well established, 
bathing the head in cold water every morning. 3 . Bathing the 
head m a strong solution of rock salt is said to benefit gray hair 
in some cases. Pour boiling water on rock salt, fn the propor¬ 
tion of 2 heaping tablespoonfuls to a quart of water, and let it 
stand till cold before using. 4 . A good wash for the hair is 1 
teaspoonful of ammonia to a quart of warm water. 

Hair Restorative.— Sugar of lead, borax and lac sulphur 
each 1 ounce, aqua ammonia y z ounce, alcohol 1 gill; mix and 
let stand 20 hours, then add bay rum 1 gill, fine table salt 1 
f-ablespoonful, soft water 3 pints, essence of bergamot % ounce. 

















































































86 


department in. 


Hair Restorative and Invigorator.— Sugar of lead, 
borax and lac sulphur of each 1 ounce, aqua ammonia y 2 ounce, 
alcohol 1 gill; mix and let stand for 14 hours; then add bay rum 

1 gill, fine table salt 1 tablespoonful, soft water 3 pints, essence 
of bergamot 1 ounce. This preparation not only gives a beauti¬ 
ful gloss, but will cause hair to grow upon bald heads arising 
from all common causes, and turning gray hair to a dark color. 
Manner of application: When the hair is thin or bald, make 2 
applications daily until this amount is used up. Work it into 
the roots of the hair with a soft brush or the ends of the fingers, 
rubbing well each time. For gray hair 1 application daily is 
sufficient. 

Hair Tonic.— Sugar of lead 5 grains, sulphate quinine 2 
grains, muriat of ammonia 1 dram, glycerine 6 ounces, distilled 
water 6 ounces; mix, and apply 2 or three times a day. 

Cure for Baldness.— Water 1 pint, pearl ash l / 2 ounce, onion 
juice, 1 gill. 

Hall’s Restorative.— Glycerine 2 ounces, bay rum 8 ounces, 
salt 2 l A ounces, Jamaica rum 4 ounces, lac sulphur and sugar of 
lead, each 1 dram and 15 grains, rain or distilled water 16 
ounces; mix; digest 12 hours. Shake well before using. 

Shampooing* Liquids.— An excellent shampoo is made of 
salts of tartar, white castle soap, bay rum, and lukewarm water. 
The salts will remove all dandruff, the soap will soften the hair 
and clean it thoroughly, and the bay rum will prevent taking 
cold. 2. (Dry). Sulphuric ether 1 ounce, alcohol 1 ounce, glycer¬ 
ine 1 ounce, aqua ammonia 1 dram, sliced castile soap 2 ounces, 
rain water 2 pints; mix. 

Wilson’s Lotion.— 1 . Eau de cologne (strongest) 8 fluid 
ounces, tincture cantharides 1 fluid ounce, oils of lavender and 
rosemary, each y 2 fluid dram. 2. Water of ammonia, almond 
oil and chloroform 1 part each; dilute with 5 parts alcohol or 
spirits of rosemary; add 1 dram oil of lemon. Use after a thor¬ 
ough friction with the hair brush. 

Bay Rum Restorative.— Oil of bay 1 dram, oil of nutmeg 
5 drops, oil of oranges *4 dram, Jamaica rum 4 ounces, alcohol 

2 pints, water to make 4 pints; cut oils in alcohol, add rum and 
water, let stand 2 or 3 weeks and filter through magnesia and 
charcoal. 

Eyebrows an<l Eyelashes, To Improve.— The eyelashes 

will increase in length if occasionally clipped, and anointed 
with a salve of 2 drams of ointment of nitric oxide of mercury 
and 1 dram of lard. Apply the mixture to the edges of the eye¬ 
lids night and morning, washing afterward with warm milk and 
water. A good prescription for stimulating their growth: Sul¬ 
phate of quinine 5 grains, sweet almond oil 1 ounce; apply with 
fine sable brush. 

Eyebrows, To Make Grow.— Sulphate of quinine 5 grains, 

alcohol 1 ounce; apply after combing. 













































































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TOILET ARTICLES. ETC. 


87 


Eyebrows, Brown Dye For.— Lead filings 1 ounce, iron 
dust 1 ounce, vinegar 1 pint; boil all together to V& pint, shake 
well when cool, and apply with small brush. 


HAIR DYES AND BLEACHES. 


Dyeing the hair is not all advisable, many evil results having 
accrued from the practice. All dyes are dangerous, so great 
care should be exercised in their use. The following list is of the 
best dyes in use at the present time. 


Hair Dye, Black.— 1. Distilled water 6 ounces, alcohol 1 
ounce, pyrogalic acid 1 dram; the acid must be dissolved in the 
aicohol before the water is added. 2. Aqua ammonia 1 ounce, 
water 1 ounce, nitrate of silver 2 drams; dissolve the silver in 
water and add the ammonia. Cork tight and keep in a cool 
place. 3. Water 4 ounces, sulphate of potash 14 ounce; mix. To 
dye the hair or whiskers have them free from dirt or soapsuds; 
they should be a little damp; add carefully No. 1, using care not 
to allow the dye to touch the skin. When somewhat dry apply 
No. 2; in about 3 minutes apply No. 3. Use care not to allow 
any of these preparations to touch the skin. 


Blonde Bleacb.— White wine 3 gills, rhubarb (dry) 5 ounces; 
boil to half quantity and strain; wash the hair and let it dry. 
Peroxide of hydrogen is an effective bleach. 

Brown.— Dissolve permanganate of potash 14 oz. in 1 pint of 
rosewater, and after having cleansed the hair with a solution of 
hartshorn, a teaspoonful to 1 quart of water, and dry it well 
with a towel, apply. It takes effect immediately, and the desired 
shade may be obtained by applying more or less of the solution. 


Brown, Dark.—1. Pyrogallic acid 4 grains, distilled water 
2 ounces. 2. Crystalized nitrate of silver 1 dram, gum arabic 1 
dram, distilled water 2 ounces. 


Brown, For Red Hair. —Oils of nutmeg and rosemary, of 
each 1 dram, castor oil 1 ounce, tincture of cantharides 2 drams, 
strong brandy 7 ounces; mix. Use a small portion once a day, 
and brush tbe hair with a stiff brush half an hour. 


Chestnut.— Permanganate of potash 1 dram, powdered gum 
arabic 2 drams, rose water 3 ounces; mix. Apply carefully with 
a toothbrush. 


Golden.— 1. Crystalized caustic baryta 7 parts, potassium 
chlorate 3 parts: mix in fine powder, nielt by gentle heat; the 
mass must be washed in cold water to remove'the chlorate of po¬ 
tassium, and the residue shaken in the cold with a solution of 8 
parts of glacial phosphoric acid in 25 parts of water, the whole 
cooled with ice; when the peroxide of barium is decomposed, the 
fluid should be decanted. 2. Moisten the hair, previously washed 



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88 


DEPARTMENT III. 


and dried, with a solution of acetate or nitrate of lead, and fol¬ 
lowed with a mordant of yellow chromate of potash. 

Walnut Hair Dye.— The simplest form is the pressed juice 
of the bark or shell of green walnuts; to preserve this juice a 
little rectified alcohol may be added to it. with a few bruised 
cloves, and the whole digested together with occasional agita¬ 
tion for a week or two, when the clear portion is decanted and, 
if necessary, filtered. Sometimes only a little common salt is 
added to preserve the juice; it should be kept in a cool place. 


CURLING FLUIDS AND FIXATURES. 

Curioline, For Making' the Hair Curl.—1. Olive oil 1 
pound, oil of origanum 1 dram, oil of rosemary 1*4 drams; mix 
well, bottle and label. Apply 2 or 3 times weekly; will curl the 
straightest hair if not cut too short. 2. Scrapings of lead 2 
ounces, litharge *4 ounce, gum camphor % ounce; boil all in 1 
pint of soft water for 30 minutes; let it cool; pour off liquid and 
add 1 dram rosemary flowers; boil all again and strain, when it 
is ready for use. Apply about once a week. 

Curling Fluid.— Put 2 pounds common soap, cut small, 
into 3 pints spirits of wine; melt together, stirring with clean 
piece of wood,'add essence of ambergris, citron and neroli. of 
each J4 ounce. 

French Curlique. —Oil of sweet almonds 1 ounce, sperma¬ 
ceti 1 dram, tincture of mastic 3 drams; dissolve the sperma¬ 
ceti (white wax is as good) in the oil with a slow heat, then add 
the tincture. Apply a small quantity. 

Gum Arabic.—1. To common gum arabic add enough alco¬ 
hol to make thin; let stand all night, then bottle to prevent 
evaporating; put on the hair after it is done up in paper. 2. 
Pale gum arabic. picked, 1*4 ounces, rose water 2 fluid ounces, 
pure water 3 fluid ounces; dissolve. 3. Gum arabic 3*4 ounces, 
water X A pint; dissolve, and then drop in cologne gradually until 
the cloudiness ceases to be removed by agitation; the next day 
decant. - 

Gum Tragacanth.—1. Gum tragacanth 1*4 dram, water 7 
ounces,proof spirits 3 ounces, attar of roses 10 drops; macerate 
24 hours and strain. 2. Gum tragacanth % ounce, rose water 1 
pint, glycerine 5 drops: mix and let stand over night; if the 
tragacanth is not dissolved, let it be 12 hours longer; if too 
thick, add more rose water, and let stand some hours; when it 
is a smooth solution it is fit for use. 3. Finest gum tragacanth, 
reduced to powder. 1 ounce, rose water 1 pint; put into a wide¬ 
mouthed vessel and shake daily 2 or 3 days, then strain; if re¬ 
quired to be colored, infuse cochineal in the water employed be¬ 
fore making. 














































































POMADES. 

Baldness, For.—1. Macerate 1 dram powdered cantharides 
in 1 ounce spirits wine; shake frequently during a fortnight, and 
then filter; rub together 10 parts of this tincture with 90 parts 
of cold lard; add any perfume. Rub well into the head night and 
morning. 2. Extract yellow Peruvian bark 14 grains, extract 
rhatany root 8 grains, extract burdock root and oil nutmeg 
(fixed), each 2 drams, camphor (dissolved with spirits of wine) 
15 grains, beef marrow 2 ounces, best olive oil 1 ounce, citron 
juice y 2 dram, aromatic essential oil to render fragrant; mix and 
make into an ointment. 

Balsam of Tolu.— Prepared lard 2 ounces, white wax 3 
ounces, melt together; remove from the fire, and when they are 
beginning to thicken add, with constant stirring, balsam of tolu 
2 drams, essence of bergamot 30 drops. 



Circassian Cream.— Two flasks oil, 3 ounces white wax, 1 
ounce spermaceti, y 2 ounce alkanet root; digest the oil with the 
alkanet until colored; strain; melt the wax and spermaceti with 
the oil: when cool add 2 y 2 drams English oil of lavender and y 2 
dram essence of ambergris. 

Black Pomade.- Melt together in a bowl set in boiling wa¬ 
ter 4 ounces white wax in 9 ounces olive oil, stirring in, when 
melted and mixed, 2 ounces burned cork in powder; this gives a 
lustrous blackness to the hair. Apply like pomade, brushing it 
well and in through the hair, it changes the color instantly. 

German Pomade.— Eight ounces purified marrow; melt in 
a glass or stoneware vessel; add \y 2 ounces fresh bay leaves, 1 
ounce orange leaves, 1 ounce bitter almonds, y 2 ounce nutmeg, y 2 
ounce cloves, 1 dram vanilla, all bruised; cover the vessel and 
digest 24 hours with a gentle heat; strain while warm through 
linen and stir it as it cooks. 

Hard Pomade.—1. Purified suet 1 pound, white wax 1 
pound, jasmine pomatum y 2 pound, tuberose pomatum y 2 pound, 
attar of roses 1 dram. 2. White; Suet 1 pound, wax y 2 pound, 
attar of bergamot 1 ounce, attar of cassia 1 dram. Brown and 
black are made in the same way, but colored with fine ivory 
black or umber ground in oil. 

Iluns'arian or Mustache Wax.— White wax 4 ounces, lard 
2 ounces, Canada balsam ounce, oil of bergamot 1 dram, oil of 
lavender 15 drops; add the balsam to the wax and lard, pre¬ 
viously heated; when nearly cold, add the essential oils, and 
mold. It may be colored black or brown. 

Oil of Almond.— Melt together with gentle heat 2 ounces 
purified beef marrow, 2 drams yellow wax, 1 ounce spermaceti, 
oil of almonds; stir until almost cold, and add essence bergamot 
y 2 opnce, attar of roses 10 drops, and oil of nutmeg 10 drops. 

Rose Pomade.— Prepared lard 16 ounces, prepared suet 2 
ounces; melt with gentle heat; add 2 ounces rose water, 6 drops 

















































90 DEPARTMENT III. 

attar of roses; beat well together and pour into pots. For mak¬ 
ing jasmine, violet and orange pomade, put the same quantity 
of water, and 1 dram of essence. 

Transparent Pomade. —Spermaceti 2 ounces, castor oil 5 
ounces, alcohol 5 ounces, oil of bergamot Yz dram, oil of portugal 
Yz dram. 

White Pomade.— Benzoinated suet 1 pound, white wax 1 
pound, jasmine pomatum 8 ounces, tuberoses pomatum 8 ounces, 
attar of roses 1 dram: melt at a gentle heat and cast in molds. 


DEPILATORIES. 

The following are for removing superfluous hair; care should 
be exercised in their use: < 

Arsenicai— 1 . Nitre and sulphur each 1 part, arpiment 3 parts, 
quicklime 8 parts, soap lees, 32 parts: boil to the consistence of 
cream. 2. Quicklime 30 parts, arpiment 4 parts, powdered gum 
arabic 60 parts; mix and keep in a tightly corked bottle; when 
used, form a paste with water, apply, and let remain 5 or 10 
minutes, when the superfluous hair can be removed with the 
back of a knifa 

Boettg'er’s.— Powdered sulphydrate of sodium 1 part, washed 
chalk 3 parts; make into a thick paste with a little water; let a 
layer about the thickness of the back of a knife be spread upon 
the surface; in 2 or 3 minutes the hair is transformed into a soft 
mass, which may be removed by water. A more prolonged 
action would attack the skin. 

Chinese.— Crystallized hydrosulphate of soda 3 parts; quick¬ 
lime in powder 10 parts, stai'ch 10 parts; mix with water and 
apply to the skin; scrape off in 2 or 3 minutes with a wooden 
knife. 

Electric.— A moistened sponge electrode from the positive 
pool of the battery, having previously been placed on the back 
of the neck, or fixed at some other convenient spot: a three- 
cornered needle, with sharp cutting edges, set in a handle and 
attached to the negative pole of the battery, is made to enter the 
hair follicle alongside the hair, care being taken to make the 
needle penetrate to the depth of the follicle. The action of the 
current causes a few bubbles of viscid froth to be observed; as 
soon as this manifests itself, the needle should be rotated a few 
times to cause the sharp corners to scrape away the debris and 
allow electrical contact with a fresh surface. The operation is 
continued until the hair becomes loose and comes away with the 
slightest traction. The operator then proceeds w r ith the next 
hair in like manner, and so on. 


Plaster.— Spread equal parts of resin and pitch on a piece of 
thin leather, and apply; let it remain 3 minutes, and pull off 
suddenly, when it brings the hair with it: if the plas*.er were left 
on longer, it would be apt to bring the skin. 


ij^> i 





























rM 


Bav Rum, Equal to the Best Imported.-Oil of bay 

fine, iy 2 drams, oil of neroli (bigard) 10 drops, %\ker acetic ? 
drams, alcohol, deodorized (strong) 3 pints, water 2)4 pints, car¬ 
amel sufficient to tinge; let it stand 2 weeks and niter. 

Imperial Onguent, For Forcing: Whiskers and Mus¬ 
tache to Grow. —Benzoin composition 2 drams, tinetuie ot 
cantharides 2 drams, castor oil 6 ounces, alcohol 9)4 ounces, oil 
of bergamot 1 dram: mix well, bottle and label. .5? 

guent night and morning; circulation should be stimulated with 
a rough towel. 

Paste, To Produce W hiskers.— Oil of paricada 1 ounce, 
southern wood bark 2 ounces, dog’s lard 1 ounce; fry over a slow 
fire until it forms a paste. Apply to the face once a day until 
the whiskers begin to grow. 

Shaving: Soap.— 1 . Good white soap, in fine shavings, 3 
pounds, balm soap 1 pound, soft water % pound, soda 1 ounce; 
melt carefully over a slow fire in an earthen vessel, then add oil 
of lavender 60 drops, oil of lemon 40 drops; mix well and make 
into forms. 2. Castile soap, in shavings. 4 ounces, proof spirits 
1 piut; dissolve, and add a little perfume. 3. \enetian soap A 
pound, salts of tartar 1 ounce, benzoin V 2 ounce, alcohol 1 gal¬ 
lon. (See Soaps.) 

Mustache Grower.— Simple cerate 1 ounce, oil of bergamot 
10 minims, saturated tincture of cantharides lo minims; rub 
them together thoroughly, or melt the cerate and stir in the 
tincture while liot, and the oil as soon as it is nearly cold, then 
run into molds or rolls. To be applied as a pomade, rubbing m 
at the roots of the hair; care must be used not to inflame the 
skin by too frequent application. 

Razor-strop Paste. —IVet the strop with a little sweet oil 
and apply a little flour of emery evenly over the surface. 

Shaving: Compound.— Plain white soap Vz pound, dissolve^ 
in a small quantity of alcohol, as little as can be used; add j 
tablespoonful of pulverized borax; shave the soap and put it in 
a small tin basin or cup; place it on the fire m a dish of boiling 
water; when melted, add the alcohol, and remove from tu.e fire, 
stir in oil of bergamot sufficient to perfume it. 

Shaving: Cream.—1. White soap 3 ounces, proof spirit 8 
ounces, water 4 ounces, carbonate of potassa 1 dram, oil of lemon 
10 drops; mix. add the potassa and ml of lemon last. 2. White 
wax, spermaceti, almond oil each )4 ounce; melt and while warm 
beat in 2 squares Windsor soap previously reduced to a paste 
with rose water. 

To Make a Razor Strap.— Select a piece of maple or rose¬ 
wood 12 inches long, 124 inches wide, and % inch thick, allow 3)4 
inches for length of handle; H loch from where the handle begins 
notch out the thickness of the leather, so that the same can flt 





Ml 


rf 






























92 


DEPARTMENT IIJ 


smoothly in the wood; select a fine piece of ealfskin, fasten se¬ 
curely to the wood, aud on the other side secure a piece of coarse 
canvas. The razor should be strapped first on the canvas and 
then on the leather. 

Razor Paste.—1, Mix fine emery with fat or wax until of 
proper consistency and then rub it well into the leather strap; 
prepare the emery by pounding it in a mortar. 2. The grit from 
a fine grindstone is excellent for a razor paste. 3. Levigated ox¬ 
alic acid 14 ounce, powdered gum 20 grains; make into a stiff 
paste with water and spread it thinly over the strap; this gives a 
line edge to the razor and its efficiency is increased by moisten¬ 
ing it. 


TOOTH POWDERS, WASHES, ETC. 


PASTES. 

Camphor. —One ounce sal ammoniac, 4 drams camphor; pow¬ 
der and mix with sufficient honey to make a smooth paste; tri¬ 
turate until perfectly smooth. 

Charcoal Paste. —Chlorate of potassa 1 dram, mint water 1 
fluid ounce; triturate until dissolved, add of powdered charcoal 
2 ounces, honey 1 oun^e. 2. Sud^ of castile soap and spirits of 
camphor equal parts; make .nto a thicu paste with pulverized 
chalk and charcoal e pial parts. 

Honey Paste.—1. One ounce myrrh in fine powder, a little 
green sage, two spoonsful white honey. 2. Two scruples myrrh 
in fine powder, 18 scruples .iuniper gum, 10 grains rock alum; 
mix in honey. Apply frequently. 

Magic Paste.—White marble dust 4 ounces, pumice stone (in 
' impalpable powder) 3 ounces, rose pink 1 ounce, honey Vi pound, 
attar of roses 15 drops. Whitens the teeth, but should not be 
used too freely nor too frequently. 

Violet Paste.— Prepared chalk and cuttle-fish bone, each 3 
ounces, powdered white sugar 2 ounces, orris root 1 ounce, 
smalts Vi ounce, syrup of violets q. s. to mix. 


POWDERS AND WASHES. 

To Beautify the Teeth and Make the Breath Smell 
Sweet and Pleasant.— Chlorate of lime 1 ounce in 1 pint of 
soft water, and let it stand 24 hours; then pour off the clear 
water and add 40 drops of essence of rose. 

To Clean the Teeth. —Castile soap and cigar ashes applied 
with a soft rag is one of the best tooth preparations known. 

Powders.— 1 . Borax powder 2 ounces precipitate chalk 4 
























































TOILET ARTICLES, ETC, 


93 


ounces, myrrh 1 ounce, iris 1 ounce 2. Precipitate chalk 14 
pound, powdered starch 14 pound, iris powder 14 pound, sulphate 
of quinine 14 scruple; put mixture through a sieve. 3 . Peruvian 
bark 2 drams, charcoal 2 drams, iris powder 1 scruple. 4. Pre¬ 
pared chalk iy 2 ounces, Peruvian bark 14 ounce, camphor 14 
ounce. 

Sozodont Fragrant.— Tincture of soap bark 2 ounces, tinct¬ 
ure of myrrh 1 dram, glycerine y 2 ounce, water 114 ounces, es¬ 
sence of cloves 10 drops, essence of wintergreen 10 drops, tinct¬ 
ure of cochineal enough to color; mix. Accompanying the above 
is a powder composed of prepared chalk, orris root, carbonate of 
magnesia, of equal parts; mix. 

Camphorated Powders.— 1 . Camphor, pulverized by the 
acid of a few drops of spirits, 1 ounce, prepared or precipitated 
chalk 3 ounces. 2. Camxihor 1 ounce, precipitated chalk 2 
ounces, cuttlefish bone 14 ounce, myrrh 2 drams, borax 2 drams, 
lake or rose pink 1 dram, or of sufficient quantity. 3. Prepared 
chalk 8 ounces, powdered cuttlefish bone 4 ounces, camphor 1 
dram, oil of cloves 1 dram; dissolve the camphor with alcohol, 
add the remaining ingredients and mix. 

Myrrh.— 1 . Myrrh 14 ounce, cuttlefish bone, prepared chalk, 
orris, of each 1 ounce, cassia 14 ounce; mix. 2. Bole 1 ounce, 
myrrh, bark and orris, of each 14 ounce; mix. 

Myrrh. Washes, —1. Turkey myrrh 3 ounces, eau de cologne 
1 quart; digest for 7 days and filter. 2. Borax 1 ounce, shellac 
14 ounce, water 8 ounces; boil together to 4 ounces, and add 
spirits of scurvy grass 1 pint, camphor 14 ounce, myrrh 2 ounces; 
digest and filter. 3 . Mix 14 pint of Jamaica spirits, 14 teaspoon¬ 
ful each of powdered alum and pulverized saltpeter and 1 ounce 
pulverized myrrh. 4. Tincture of myrrh 14 ounce, tincture of 
Peruvian bark 2 ounces; a few drops in water when brushing 
the teeth. 

Mouth Pastel to Sweeten the Breath.— 1 . Extract of 
licorice 3 ounces, oil of cloves 114 drams, oil of cinnamon 15 
drops; mix and divide into 1 grain pills and silver them. 2. 
Chocolate powder and ground coffee, of each 114 ounces, prepared 
charcoal 1 ounce, sugar 1 ounce, vanilla (pulverized with the 
sugar) 1 ounce, enough mucilage; make into lozenges to suit the 
taste, of which 6 or 8 may be used daily to disinfect the breath. 
3 . (Bologna Cachous.) Extract of licorice 3 ounces, water 3 
ounces; dissolve by heat in a water bath and add catechu 1 
ounce, gum arabic!4 ounce; evaporate to the consistence of an 
extract, and add (in powders) 14 dram each of mastic, cascarilla, 
charcoal, and orris: remove from the fire and add oil of pepper¬ 
mint 14 dram, essence of ambergris and essence musk, each 5 
drops; roll flat on an oiled marble slab and cut into small loz¬ 
enges. Used by smokers.. 

To Sweeten the Breath.— From 6 to 10 drops of the con¬ 
centrated solution of chloride of soda in a wineglassful of spring 
water, taken immediately after t,b« ablutions ~of the morning, 
























































94 


DEPARTMENT III. 


will sweeten the breath by disinfecting the stomach, which far 
from being injured will be benefited by its use. If necessary this 
may be repeated in the middle of the day- In some cases the 
odor from carious teeth is combined with that of the stomach; if 
the mouth is well rinsed with a teaspoonful of the chloride in a 
tumbler of water the bad odor from the teeth will be removed. 

Violet Mouth Wash.— Tincture of orris 14 pint, spirit of 
rose 14 pint, alcohol 14 pint, attar of almonds 5 drops; shake 
thoroughly and rinse the mouth after eating. 


TOILET AND MEDICINAL SOAPS. 

An Excellent Toilet Soap.— Take 2 pounds pure beef tal¬ 
low, 2 pounds sal soda, 1 pound salt, 1 ounce gum campnor, 1 
ounce oil of bergamot, 1 ounce borax; boil slowly an hour; stir 
often; let it stand till cool, then warm it over so it will run eas¬ 
ily, and turn into cups or molds dipped in cold water. This is 
very nice for all toilet purposes and is greatly improved by age. 

A Celebrated French Toilet Compound which is far 
better than soap is made of 8 ozs. of bitter almonds, oil of same 
12 ounces, savon vert of the perfumes 8 ounces, spermaceti 4 
ounces, cinnabar 2 drams, essence of rose 1 dram; melt the soap 
and spermaceti with the oil in a water bath, add the powder and 
mix the whole in a mortar. It forms a paste and may be used as 
desired. 

Almond.— Oil of almonds 7 pounds, soda 1% pounds, water 
sufficient; the soda must be rendered caustic before adding it to 
the oil and heat then applied; an easy way of preparing the soda 
is to treat it in a solution with powdered quicklime 

Antimonial Soap.— Prepared by dissolving 1 part golden 
sulphuret of antimony of 2 parts of a saturated solution of caus¬ 
tic potash, to this add of caustic soap, in powder, 4 parts; trit¬ 
urate till the whole assumes a proper consistency. 

Bouquet Soap.— 1 . White curd soap, finest, 17*4 pounds, 
olive oil soap 2!4 pounds, oil of bergamot 1 ounce, oils of cassia, 
cloves, sassafras and thyme, of each 1J4 drams, oil of neroli 1 
dram, brown ocher, levigated, 2 ounces; proceed as for almond 
soap; it may be varied by substituting oil of lavender for the 
neroli. 2. White curd soap 20 pounds, oil of bergamot 2% 
ounces, oil of cloves l / 2 dram, oil of neroli y 9 dram, oil of sassa¬ 
fras y a dram, oil of thyme y a dram, colored with 2*4 ounces of 
brown ocher. 3. Good tallow soap .‘30 pounds, essence of berga¬ 
mot 4 ounces, oils of cloves, sassafras and thyme, of each 1 
ounce, color brown ocher 7 ounces. 4 (Palmer’s). White castile 
soap 10 pounds, oil of English lavender 2 drams, oil of cltronella 
2!4 drams, oils of lemon and bergamot, of each 4 drams, palm 
oil 2 pounds; melt the soap and palm oil together by a gentle 
heat, and when nearly cold, add the perfumes, previously dis¬ 
solved in sufficient alcohol. 













































TOILET ARTICLES, ETC. 


95 


Carbolic Acid Soap.— Take freshly prepared cocoanut oil 
soap 75 parts, and fuse; then add a solution of alcohol 5 parts, 
carbolic acid 3 parts, caustic potassa 1 part, oil of lemon 1 part; 
mix, with stirring; to be poured into molds. 

Castile Soap.—1. Made like almond soap, only using olive 
oil; it is mottled by adding a solution of sulphate of iron while 
in the liquid state. 2. Boil common soft soap in lamp oil 3*4 
hours. 

Cinnamon Soap.— Tallow soap 14 pounds, palm oil soap 7 
pounds, oil of cinnamon (cassia) 3 ounces, oil of sassafras and 
essence of bergamot, of each */ 2 ounce, leVigated yellow ochre */ 2 
pound. 

Cocoanut Oil Soap.— Put 50 pounds cocoanut oil and 50 
pounds caustic soda lye of 27 o Baume into a soap kettle; boil 
and mix for 1 or 2 hours until the paste thickens; then diminish 
the heat, but continue stirring till the cooling paste assumes a 
white, half-solid mass, then transfer quickly to the frames. 

Coloring.— For coloring ordinary fancy soaps mineral colors 
are employed; for superior toilet and transparent soaps organic 
pigments are used, generally the red coloring matter is derived 
from vermillion or chrome red. the violet from fuchsine solved 
in glycerine, the red-brown and brown from cameral and the va¬ 
rious kinds of umber, for green chrome green is used; a beauti¬ 
ful vegetable green is obtained by stirring in the soap, saponi¬ 
fied with 7 to 10 per cent of palm oil, some smalts or ultrama¬ 
rine, for blue, smalts or ultramarine; yeliowis obtained by mix¬ 
ing palm butter with the fat to be saponified; for black common 
lampblack is used. Fine toilet soaps and transparent soaps may 
be colored as follows: For red color, tincture of dragon’s blood 
or liquid carmine; rose, tincture of carthamine or of archil; yel¬ 
low ana orange, tincture of annatto or saffron; blue and violet, 
tincture of litmus, or of alkanet root, or soluble Prussian blue, 
basic, or a very little indigo in impalpable powder; green, a mix¬ 
ture of blue and yellow. 

Cream Wash Balls.— White curd soap 7 pounds, powdered 
starch 1 pound, water or rose water quantity sufficient: beat the 
whole together, and form into balls. 

English Bath.— Tallow oil 4 pounds, palm oil 4 pounds, 
cocoanut oil 2 pounds, alcohol 4 pints, soda lye, at 36 o, 5 pounds, 
oil of sassafras y 2 ounce, oil of peppermint *4 ounce, oil of lemon 
y 2 ounce, oil of cinnamon y ounce, oil of lavender y ounce; mix 
and proceed as in the directions for transparent soap, omitting 
the glycerine. 

Floating Soap.— Fine soda oil soap (in shavings) 9 parts, 
water 1 part; put them in a clean copper kettle, place it in a 
water bath; melt, then agitate the mixture until its volume is 
doubled, or until it becomes wholly composed of froth, then pour 
it out to cool and cut into cakes. 

Glycerine Soap.—1. Take toilet soap, slice and melt with 














































































gentle heat, and add to 1 pound soap 1 ounce pure glycerine; 
when sufficiently cool make into balls. 2. Take 100 parts oleine 
of commerce (winter strained lard oil will answer), and add 314 
parts heavy glycerine; heat to 50o and then add 56 parts aque¬ 
ous solution of caustic potassa, specific gravity 1.34, and stir the 
mixture well. This soap exhibits the consistency of honey, in 
which state it remains. 

Glycerine Balls.— To any recently made toilet soap, sliced 
and melted by a gentle heat, without water if possible, add gly¬ 
cerine 1 ounce to the pound; thoroughly incorporate by stirring 
until the mass has cooled considerably, when it should be made 
into balls. 

Honey Soap.— Cut 2 pounds common bar soap into shavings 
and put in a tin pail with barely hot water enough to cover, 
place the pail in a kettle of boiling water, ana when its contents 
are melted, stir thoroughly, and add \i pound eacn of honey, 
almond oil and powdered borax; mix together by stirring for 10 
minutes, then add oil of cinnamon or bergamot, a few drops, or 
any scent preferred: mix well, and turn the soap into a deep 
dish to cool, then cut into squares. It can be made into sand 
balls by adding equal quantities of white sand and Indian meal 
until it is so stiff that you can roll it in the hands. There is no 
soap that will whiten the hands like this, 2. Some of the finer 
kinds are made of olive oil soap and palm oil soap, of each 1 
part, white cured soap 3 parts, deepened in color, while in a 
liquid state, with a little palm oil or annatto, and scented with 
1 to 1*4 ounces essential oils to each % pound, or 1 to 1)4 pounds 
to each hundredweight. 

Iodine Soap.— Make a solution of 1 part iodine potassium in 
3 parts of water; to this add of powdered castile soap 16 parts; 
melt in a porcelain vessel by the aid of water bath. 

Lavender Soap.— The basis of Windsor soap, scented with 
oil of lavender, 1 to 1)4 fluid ounces per 7 pounds, supported 
with a little oil of bergamot and the essence of musk and amber¬ 
gris. It is often colored with a little tincture of litmus or cor¬ 
responding mineral pigments. . 

Marine Soap.— This is made by substituting cocoanut oil for 
fats and oils used in the manufacture of common soap. It has 
the advantage of forming a lather with salt water. 

Mercurial Soap. —Beat into a homogeneous mass in a 
wedgewood mortar castile soap 1 pound; protochloride of mer¬ 
cury )4 ounce, dissolved in 4 ounces of alcohol. 

Oatmeal Soap.— make a saturated solution of borax (the 
pulverized is the best), cut into it bits of fancy castile or gly¬ 
cerine soap; let the mixture boil until the soap is dissolved; 
make it as thick as cream by boiling or by adding more if too 
thick; then stir into the mass oatmeal enough to make a soft 
paste, stir until it cools and hardens; a little sulphur, also pul¬ 
verized camphor of sulphur, may be mangled with the meal; 


AK, 






n> 



-zgwvmXf*. 























































TOILET ARTICLES, ETC. 


97 


while warm and soft place in a box, so that when hai’d it may be 
turned out and cut into squares. This soap softens the slnn. 

Perfuming-.— Perfuming is generally done when the paste is 
in the frame, as. if added in the pan when the soap is hot, most 
of the essential oils would be volatilized. It is best to mix the 
colors and the perfumes together with some alcohol or glycerine 
and stir in well. 

Rose Soap.—1.— Palm oil soap in shavings 3 pounds, finest 
white curd soap in shavings 2 pounds, soft water ^ pint; melt 
together in a bright copper pan and set in a water bath; add 
levigated vermilion ounce; and when the mixture is cooled a 
little stir in finest attar of roses 2 drams, oil of bergamot 1 y 2 
drams, oil of cinnamon and oil of cloves of each % drams, oil of 
rose geranium y 2 dram; mix well and pour the mass into an 
open bottomed wooden frame set on a polished marble slab. 
Sometimes it is colored with tincture of dragon blood or of 
archil instead of with vermilion. 2. White curd soap 20 
pounds, essence of rose 1% ounces, oil of cloves % dram, oil of 
cinnamon y 3 dram, oil of bergamot 1 dram, oil of neroli U dram; 
colored with 2 ounces of vermilion. 

Sand Soap.— Prepared soap 8 pounds, marine soap 7 pounds, 
sifted silver sand 25 pounds; oil of French lavender thyme 
caraway and cassia of each 2 ounces; mix the usual way. 

Shaving Soap.—1. Take 4 pounds white bar soap, 1 quart of 
ram water, y 2 pint beef gall, and 1 gill spirits of turpentine; put 
the whole over the fire and boil until dissolved, stirring mean¬ 
while. 2. A nice soap for shaving may be made by mixing y 
pound castile soap, 1 cake old Windsor soap, 1 gill each of 
lavender and cologne water, and a little alcohol; boil all together 
until mixed. 3 . Good white soap (in thin shavings) 3 pounds, 
palm soap 1 pound, soft water % pounds, soda 1 ounce, melt 
carefully over a slow fire in an earthen vessel, then add oil of 
lavender, 60 drops oil of lemon 40 drops, bergamot 50 drops; 
mix well and make it into forms. 4 . Take 3 pounds white bar 
soap, 1 pound castile soap, 1 quart rain water, y 2 pint beef gall 
1 gill spirits turpentine; cut the soap into thin slices and boil 
5 minutes after the soap is dissolved; stir while boiling; scent 
with oil of rose or almonds; to color it use 14 ounce vermilion. 

Transparent Soap.— Slice 6 pounds nice yellow bar soap 
into shavings; put into a brass, tin or copper kettle, with alcohol 
X A gallon, heating gradually over a slow fire, stirring until dis¬ 
solve!: then add 1 ounce sassafras essence; stir until mixed and 
pour into pans about 1% inches deep, and when cold cut into 
square bars. 

Violet Soaps.— Any white toilet soap strongly scented with 
essence of orris root, either colored or not, with tincture of 
litmus or a little levigated smalts, ultra marine or indigo. 

White Toilet Soap.— Ten pounds refined tallow, boiled in 
lye made from 5 pounds soda, y 2 as much fresh lime, boiled y 2 

































98 


DEPARTMENT III. 




hour in 7 gallons of water. When the lye is cold it is drained 
trom the soda and lime and boiled with the grease 1 hour until 
clear; then pour into a tub to cool. The soap floats on the top 
and may be cut into bars. 2. To 15 pounds lard or tallow made 
hot add slowly 6 gallons hot lye or solution of potash that will 
bear up an egg high enough to leave a piece as big as a dime 
bare. Take out a little and cool it; if no grease rises, it is done, 
if any grease appears add lye and.boil until no grease appears; 
add 3 quarts fine salt and boil again; if this does not harden on 
cooling add more salt. If it is to be perfumed melt it next day, 
add the perfume and run it into molds or cut into cakes. 

Windsor Soap, Brown.— Prepared soap 40 pounds, burnt 
umber 4 ounces, English vermilion 1 ounce, lampblack 14 ounce, 
oils of cinnamon and bergamot each 2 ounces, oils of thyme, 
peppermint, caraway seed and cloves, each 114 ounces, lavender 
2 ounces; mix according to Lhe usual way. 

Windsor Soap, White. —Curd soap 50 pounds, marine soap 
10 pounds, oil soap 14 pounds, oils of cassia and cloves each 2 
ounces, oil of carraway seed 4 ounces, oil of thyme 3J4 ounces, 
rosemary 4 ounces; mix in the usual way. 


I 


Face Cosmetic.— Oxide of zinc % ounce, prepared chalk 14 
ounce, glycerine 2 drams, rose water sufficient to make 6 ounces. 
Apply with small sponge. When dried, smooth off with dry 
hands. 

Hand Lotion. —Quince seed 2 drams, hot water 16 ounces. 
Let stand for a few days; strain and add 4 ounces of glycerine, 0 
ounces of alcohol, 3 drops of oil of rose geranium, 2 drams of 
tincture of benzoin, and water enough to make 1 quart. 

Breath Purifier.— Carbolic acid 16 drops, oil of wintergreen 
10 drops, glycerine 1 ounce, water 1 ounce. Dose, 1 teaspoonful 
when required. 

Hair Tonic.— Tincture of Spanish fly 3 drams, castor oil 2 
drams, oil of rosemary 1 dram, oil of rose geraniums drops, al¬ 
cohol sufficient to make 4 ounces. Apply to scalp with fingers 
every 3 days. 

Shampoo, or Scalp Cleaner.— Carbonate of notash 1 
ounce, water of ammonia V% ounce, alcohol 4 ounces, water suffi¬ 
cient to make 8 ounces. Wet the head and pour sufficient of the 
solution to raise a good lather when rubbed. Then rinse with 
luke-warm water and dry. 




































































































































































































































DEPARTMENT IV, 


RECIPES FOR THE HOUSEHOLD. 


RENOVATING RECIPES. 

Cleaning 1 Compound. —Mix 1 ounce of borax and 1 ounce 
gum camphor with 1 quart boiling water, when cool add 1 pint 
of alcohol, bottle and cork tightly. When wanted for use. shake 
well and sponge the garments to be cleaned. This is an excellent 
mixture for cleaning soiled black cashmere and woolen dresses, 
coat collars, and black felt hats. 

Cream.— One-half pound white castile soap. Y<t pound lump 
ammonia, 2 ounces alcohol, 2 ounces ether; cut the soap tap fine 
and dissolve in 1 quart of hot water; then take off the fire and 
add 4 quarts cold water and the other ingredients. Bottle at 
once and cork tightly. — 

Coal Oil, To Remove.— Cover the spot with finely powdered 
chalk or cornmeal; lay a paper over it and rub it over with a 
moderately heated iron. To or three applications are all that is 
necessary. 

Cloth, To Clean.— You need dry Fuller’s earth moistened 
with lemon juice and a small quantity of powdered pearl ash; 
mix the Fuller's earth and pearl ash into balls with sufficient 
lemon juice to moisten; scour the cloth with the balls. 

Cleaning Race.— Fill a large bottle with cold water, and 
sew around it some clean, old white muslin. Tack one end of 
the lace to the muslin, and wrap the lace around the bottle, tak¬ 
ing care to have no wrinkles; with a clean sponge and pure 
sweet oil saturate the lace thoroughly through the wrappings to 
the bottle, which is to be fastened by strings in a wash-kettle. 
Pour in a strong, cold lather of white castile soap and boil the 
suds until the lace is white and clean. Dry the bottle in the sun, 
remove the lace and w r rap it around a ribbon block or press. 

Cleaning picture Frames.— Dingy or rusty gilt picture 
frames may be improved by simply washing them with a smal 
sponge moistened with spirits of wine or oil of turpentine, th< 
sponge only to be sufficiently wet to take off the dirt and fij 

99 







































































marks. They should not be wiped afterward, but left to dry of 

themselves. 

Cleaning' Stains, Spots and Mildew from Furniture. 

—Take y 2 pint of 98 per cent alcohol. ounce each of pulverized 
resin and gum shellac, add 14 pint of linseed oil, shake well and 
apply with a brush or sponge. Sweet oil will remove finger 
marks from varnished furniture, and kerosene from oiled furni¬ 
ture. 

Cleaning Gilt Frames.— Gilt frames may be revived by 
carefully dusting them, and then washing with 1 ounce ol' soda 
beaten up with the whites of three eggs. Scraped patches 
should be touched up with gold paint. Castile soap and water, 
with proper care, may be used to clean oil paintings. Other 
methods should not be employed without some skill. 

Corsets, To Clean. —Take out the steels at front and sides, 
then scour thoroughly with tepid or cold lather of white castile 
soap, using a small scrubbing brush; do not lay them in water; 
when quite clean let cold water run off them quite freely from 
the spigot to rinse out the soap thoroughly. Dry without iron¬ 
ing (after pulling lengthwise to make them straight and shapely) 
in a cool place. 

Coffee Stains, To Remove.— Mix the yolk of an egg with a 
little milk warm water, and use it as soap on the stain. For 
stains that have been on the material for some time add a few 
drops of alcohol to the egg and water. 

Color, To Restore. — 1 . If the color is taken out by acids wet 
the spots with liquid ammonia to kill the acid, and then wet with 
chloroform to restore the color. If the color is destroyed by 
alkalies, wet with acid to destroy the alkali and then use chloro¬ 
form to restore the color. 2. If discoloration from any acid the 
color may be restored by rubbing a solution of carbonate of soda 
or magnesia on the part. In this case avoid the use of soap with 
water, as the former will restore the red appearance. 

Crape, To Renew.— 1 . Rinse it with ox gall and water to re¬ 
move the dirt; afterward in clear water to remove the gall and 
lastly in a little gum water to stiffen and crisp it. It is then 
clapped between the hands until dry. 2. Skimmed milk and 
water, with a little bit of glue in it, made scalding hot. restores 
rusty Italian crape. If clapped and pulled dry like muslin it will 
look as good as new. «. 

Feathers, To Bleaeli.— To bleach black, brown or gray 
feathers. First thoroughly wash with soap and water to free 
fl l°m £ ny oil they may contain; next transfer to bath composed 
°!=.;? 1 V iromate of P otash dissolved in water, to which has been 
added a few drops of nitric or sulphuric acid. In this bath they 
readily lose their color and become almost white. On being re- 
moved from this bath they should be well rinsed in water, and 
are then fit to be dyed, even the most delicate color. Great care 
is required in the process, as the flue of the feather is ant to be 






U 



































































THE HOUSEHOLD. 101 

destroyed If kept too long in the hath. A bleached feather may 
be readily known by the yellow color of its stem. 

Freshening- Crape.— Brush the crape well with a soft 
brush, and hold tightly over a wide-mouthed jug of boiling 
water, gradually stretching it over the jug. If a stripe of crape, 
it is very easily held tightly over the water, letting the portion 
done fall over the jug until it is all completed. The crape will 
become firm and fit for use. every mark and fold being removed. 
White or colored crape may be washed and pinned over a news¬ 
paper, or towel, on the outside of a bed, until dry. Crape that 
has been exposed to rain or damp—veils especially—may be 
saved from spoiling by being stretched tightly on the outside of 
the bed with pins, until dry; and no crape should be left to dry 
without having been pulled into proper shape. If black crape, 
lace, or net, is faded or turned brown, it may be dipped into 
water, colored with the blue-bag, adding a lump of loaf sugar to 
stiffen, and pinned to a newspaper on a bed. 

For Bleaching Cotton Cloth.— One pound chloride of lime, 
dissolved and strained; put in 2 or 3 pails of water; thoroughly 
wet the cloth and leave it over night: then rinse well in two 
waters. This will also take out mildew, and is equally good for 
brown cotton or white that has become yellow from any cause, 
and will not injure the fabric. 

For C 1 e an i n g Merino or Any Woolen Stuff.— Pur¬ 
chase at a drug store 2 cents worth of carbonate of ammonia. 
Place it in a clean quart basin, and pour upon it a pint of boiling 
water; cover it with a clean plate, and let it stand till cold. Then 
proceed the same as directed for cleaning black silks. Gentle¬ 
men's clothes can thus be cleaned without taking to pieces, or 
ironing, unless quite convenient. Vests and coat collars are 
thus easily renovated, the color is revived, grease spots and 
white seams removed. 

Freshen Marble. —Mix a bullock’s gall with 4 ounces of 
soap lees and 2 ounces of turpentine, add pipe clay and make it 
into a paste. Apply it to the marble, and let it remain 24 hours; 
rub it off, and if not clean, repeat it till it is. 

Feathers, To Clean.— Cut some white curd soap in small 
pieces; pour boiling water on them and add a little pearlash. 
When the soap is dissolved and the mixture cool enough for the 
hand to bear, plunge the feathers into it and draw them through 
the hand till the dirt appears to be squeezed out of them. Pass 
them through a clean lather with some blueing in it; then rinse 
them in cold water with blue, to give them a good color; beat 
them against the hand to shake off the water, and dry by shak¬ 
ing them near a fire. Black feathers may be cleaned with some 
water and gall, proceeding as above. 

Feathers, to Curl.— When they are nearly dry draw each 
fibre or flue over the edge of a blunt knife, turning it around in 
the direction you wish the curl to take; thus, if the feather is to 
be flat, place it between the leaves of a book and press it. 















































(cTy 


XA 


Feathers, To Restore.— Take a little salt and sprinkle it on 
the hot stove, and hold the plume over the smoke a few minutes. 

©loves. Kid, To Clean. —1. After thoroughly cleansing the 
hands, put on the gloves and wash them, as though washing the 
hands, in a bowl of spirits of turpentine. Naphtha may be used 
instead of turpentine, with equally good results. After washing 
hang the gloves in a current of air, or in a warm room, taking 
care that no dust settles on them. 2. Go over them with a clean 
towel dipped in skim milk, wearing them during the process and 
until they are quite dry. 3. Dissolve 3 ounces of soap by heat 
in 2 ounces of water, and when nearly cold add 2 ounces of 
eau-de-javelle and 1 dram of water of ammonia; form a paste, 
which is to be rubbed over the gloves with flannel until suffici- 
ently clean. 

Oenuine Cleaning- Fluid.— Take l 1 /* ounces alcohol, 
ounce bay rum, jounce oil wintergreen, y 8 ounce aqua ammonia, 
y 2 ounce chloroform 1 ounce sulphuric ether; let stand 6 houi’s 
.n a tightly corked bottle; then add 1 ounce pulverized borax 
ind 1 gallon deodorized gasoline. 

Magic An n i ti i la tor. —To make 1 gross 8-ounce bottles; 
Vqua ammonia 1 gallon, soft water 8 gallons, best white soap 4 
)ounds, saltpetre 8 ounces; shave the soap fine, add the water, 
>oil until the soap is dissolved, let it get cold, then add the salt- 
)etre, stirring until dissolved. Now strain, let the suds settle, 
;kim off the dry suds, add the ammonia, bottle and cork at once. 

What it will Do. —It will remove all kinds of grease and oil 
spots from every variety of wearing apparel, such as coats, pants, 
vests, dress goods, carpets, etc., without injury to the finest silks 
or laces. It will shampoo like a charm, raising the lather in 
proportion to the amount of dandruff and grease in the hair. A 
cloth wet with it will remove all grease from door knobs, window 
sills, etc., handled by kitchen domestics in their daily routine of 
kitchen work. It will remove paint from a board, I care not how 
hard or dry it is, if oil is used in the paint, yet it will not injure 
the finest textures. Its chemical action is such that it turns any 
oil or grease into soap, which is easily washed mat with clear, 
cold water. For cleaning silver, brass and copper ware it can’t 
be beat. It is certain death to bed bugs, for they will never stop 
after they have encountered the Magic Anniliilator. 
i Directions for Use. —For grease spots, pour upon the article 
to be cleaned a sufficient quantity of the Magic Anniliilator, rub¬ 
bing well with a clean sponge, and applying to both sides of the 
article you are cleaning. Upon carpets and coarse goods, where 
the grease is hard and dry, use a stiff brush and wash out with 
clear, cold water, v. Apply again if necessary. One application is 
all that is needed for any fresh grease spots, but for old or dried 
a second may be requii'ed. For shampooning take a small quan¬ 
tity of the Magic Anniliilator with an equal quantity of water, 
apply to the hair with a stiff brush, brushing into the pores of 
the scalp, and wash out with clear water. You will be surprised 
at the silk gloss of your hair. For cleaning silverware, etc., buy 


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If 



















































THE HOUSEHOLD. 103 

5 cents worth of whitening, mix a small quantity with the 
Magic Annihilator and apply with a rag, rubbing briskly. For 
killing bed bugs, apply to the places they frequent, and they will 
leave in short order. You will find it useful in many other 
ways. 

Nitrate of Silver or Nitric Acid Stains, To Remove.— 

1. Apply iodine, and afterwards rub briskly with strong water of 
ammonia. 2. Apply diluted solutions of permanganate of 
potassa and hydrochloric acid, followed by washing with hypo¬ 
sulphite of soda solution, rinsing in plenty‘of fresh water. 

Paint, To Remove. —When fresh, make repeated applica¬ 
tions of spirits of turpentine or alcohol, rub down with a soft 
rag or flannel; ether also will answer if applied immediately. 
When neither turpentine nor benzine will remove paint spots 
from garments, try chloroform; it will remove paint which has 
been on for 6 months. 

Ribbons, To Clean.— Gin V 2 pint, honey % pound, soft soap 
y 2 pound, water % pint; mix the above, then lay each breadth of 
silk upon a clean table and scrub well on the so'lid side with the 
mixture; have ready 3 vessels of cold water, take each piece of 
silk at two corners and dip it up and down in each vessel, but do 
not wring it, and take care that each piece has one vessel of 
quite clean water for the last dip; hanging it up dripping for a 
minute or two, then dab in a cloth and iron quickly with a very 
hot iron. 

Sealing' Wax, To Remove.— Dissolve the spots with alco¬ 
hol or naptha; apply with a camel’s-hair brush. 

Spots ami Stains from Dresses, To Remove.— To re¬ 
move grease spots from cotton or woolen materials absorbent 
paste, purified bullock’s blood and even common soap are used; 
apply to the spot when dry. When the colors are not fast, use 
fuller’s earth or pulverized potter’s clay; lay in a layer over the 
spot and press it with a very hot iron: from silks, moires and 
plain or brocade satins, begin by pouring over the spot 2 drops 
of rectified spirits, cover it over with a linen cloth instantly; the 
spot will look tarnished, for a portion of the grease still remains; 
this will be removed entirely by a little sulphuric ether dropped 
on the spot and a very little rubbing. If neatly done, no per¬ 
ceptible mark or circle will remain, nor will the luster of the 
richest silk be changed, the union of the two liquors operating 
with no injurious effects from rubbing; eau de cologne will also 
remove grease from cloth and silk. 

’ Fruit Spots are removed from white and fast-colored cottons 
by the use of chloride of soda; commence by cold soaping the 
article, then touch the spot with a hair pencil or feather, dipped 
in the chloride, dipping it immediately in cold water to prevent 
the texture of the article being injured. 

Ink Spots are removed by a few drops of hot water being ap¬ 
plied immediately when fresh; by the same process, iron mold in 







ft 
































104 


DEPARTMENT IV. 


linen or calico may be removed, dipping immediately in col<^ 
water to prevent injury to the fabric. 

Wax dropped on a shawl, table cover or cloth dress is easily 
discharged by applying alcohol. 

Syrup and Preserves.—B y washing in lukewarm water with 
a dry cloth and pressing the spot between two folds of clean 
linen. Essence of lemon will remove grease, but it will make a 
spot itself in a few days. , 

To Remove Iron Rust from muslins or white goods, thor¬ 
oughly saturate the spots with lemon juice and salt, and expose 
to the sun; usually more than one application is necessary. To 
prevent its reappearance, enclose in a muslin bag when being 


toiled 


• To Renovate Black Goods.— Dissolve 4 ounces ot cas- 
tile soap shavings in a quart of boiling water; when cold add 4 
ounces of ammonia, 2 ounces each of ether, alcohol and glycer¬ 
ine, and a gallon of clear, cold water; mix thoroughly and bot¬ 
tle. For men’s clothing, he; vy cloth, etc., dilute a small quan¬ 
tity in an equal amount of water, and, following the nap of the 
goods, sponge the stains with a piece of similar goods or a small 
sponge. The grease that gathers upon the collars of coats will 
immediately disappear, and the undiluted fluid will remove the 
more obstinate spots. When clean dry with another cloth, and 
press the underside with a warm iron This fluid is also useful 
when painted walls and woodwork need scouring, a cupful to a 
pail of warm water being the proper proportions. 

To Restore Scorched liinen.— Slice 2 onions and extract 
the juice, to which add 14 ounce of white soap, 2 ounces of ful¬ 
ler’s earth and 14 pint of vinegar; boil well, and spread it over 
the scorched places, leaving it to dry; wash the article. 

To Remove Ink Stains.—1. Cream of tartar 1 ounce, salts 
of sorrel 1 ounce; mix well, and keep well corked. 2. Wash 
carefully with clean water, and apply oxalic acid; if the latter 
changes the dye to a red tinge, restore the color with diluted 
water of ammonia. 

To Wash Silk.— For a dress to be washed, the seams of a 
skirt do not require to be ripped apart, though it must be re¬ 
moved from the band at the waist and the lining taken from the 
bottom; trimmings or drapings, where there are deep folds, the 
bottom of which is very difficult to reach, should be undone so 
as to remain flat. A black silk dress, without being previously 
washed, may be refreshed by being soaked during 24 hours in 
soft clear water, clearness in the water being indispensable; if 
dirty, the black dress may be previously washed; when very old 
and rusty, a pint of gin or whisky should be mixed with each 
gallon of water; this addition is an improvement under any cir¬ 
cumstances, whether the silk ber previously washed or not. 
After soaking, the dress should be hung up to drain dry without 
being wrung. The mode of washing silk is as follows: The 
article should be laid upon a smooth, clean table, the flannel 








\ 







































THE HOUSEHOLD. 105 

should be well soaped, just made wet with lukewarm water, and 
the surface of the silk rubbed one way with it, care being taken 
that this rubbing is quite even; when the dirt has disappeared, 
the soap must be washed off with a sponge and plenty of cold 
water, of which the sponge must be made to absorb as much as 
possible: as soon as one side is finished, the other must be 
washed in precisely the same manner. Let it be understood that 
not more of either surface must be done at a time than can be 
spread perfectly flat upon the table, aud the hand conveniently 
reach; likewise, the soap must be quite sponged off one portion 
before application is made to anothei*. Silks, when washed, 
should be dried in the shade on a horse and alone; if black or 
dark bine, they will be improved if, when dry, they are placed 
on a table and well sponged with gin or whisky and dried again. 
Either of these liquors alone will remove, without washing, the 
dirt or grease from a black necktie or handkerchief of the same 
color, which will be so renovated by the application as to appear 
almost new. 

;Tar, To Remove.— Scrape off as much as possible, then wet 
the place thoroughly with good salad oil or melted lard and let 
it remain for 24 hours; if linen or cotton, wash it out m strong, 
warm soap suds; if woolen or silk, take out the grease with 
ether or spirits of wine. 

Velveteen, To Clean.— To wash velveteen use cold water, 
and do not wring, but shake thoroughly; spread on the line as 
much as possible; when partly dry, take down and shake again. 

Velvets, To Restore.—1. The best mode of cleaning any 
kind of velvet is to sponge it with benzoline, and apply a weak 
solution of gum arabic to the back; then sew it in a frame fan 
embroidery frame will do) and iron it on the wrong side with a 
damp rag' placed between. If the nap requires raising, hold it 
with the wrong side downward over a basin of hot water; if 
there are any grease spots, pour turpentine on the place and rub 
it till dry with a flannel. 2. Strain it tightly over a board and 
sponge with pure Holland gin, the sponge being squeezed out 
very hard, that it may be damp, not wet; then hold near a fire, 
the wrong side to the heat, until the pile begins to rise; iron by 
pressing the wrong side over the edge of a warm flat iron, as no 
pressure must come on the right side. 


RECIPES FOR THE LAUNDRY. 

Including blueing, washing powders, soaps and enamels, with 
general hints and instructions as to the best methods of wash¬ 
ing particular fabrics. Some valuable formulas will also he 
found in renovating recipes. 

Blankets, To Wash.— Put 2 large tablespoonfuls of borax 
and 1 pint bowl of soft soap into a tub of cold water; when dis¬ 
solved, put in a pair of blankets and let them remain over night; 












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106 


DEPARTMENT IV. 




next rub them out and rinse thoroughly in 2 waters and hang 
them to dry; do not wring them. This recipe will also apply to 
the washing of all kinds of flannels and woolen goods. 

Bleaching- Cotton.— Thirty yards of cotton cloth may be 
bleached in 15 minutes by 1 large spoonful of sal soda and 1 
pound oi chloride of lime dissolved in soft water. After taking 
out the cloth, rinse it in soft cold water, so that it may not rot; 
the color of French linen may be preserved by a bath of strong 
tea or common hay; calicos, with pink or green colors, will be 
brightened if vinegar is put in the rinsing water; while soda is 
used for purple and blue. If it is desired to set colors previous 
to washing, put a spoonful of ox galls to a gallon of water, and 
soak the fabrics in the liquid; colored napkins are put in lve be¬ 
fore washing to set. the color; the color of black cloth is fresh¬ 
ened^ it is put in a pail of water containing a teaspoonful 

Bleaching linen.— Linen may be bleached in a similar way 
to cotton, but the process is made more troublesome and tedious 
owing to its greater affinity for the coloring matter existing in it 
in the raw state. & 


Bluing, For Clothes.— Take 1 ounce of soft Prussian blue, 
powder it and put in a bottle with a quart of clear rainwater, 
and add ounce of oxalic acid; a teaspoonful is sufficient for a 
large wasting. 

Chemical Compound.— Aqua ammonia 2 ounces, soft wa¬ 
ter 1 quart, saltpeter 1 teaspoonful, shaving soap, in shavings, 1 
ounce, mix all together; dissolve the soap well, and any grease 
or dirt that cannot be removed with this preparation, nothing 
else need be tried for it. 6 

Iron Bust, To Remove .—See Renovating Recipes. 

Ink Stains, To Remove.—Are Renovating Recipes. 
Improved Troy Starch Enamel.— Melt 5 pounds of re¬ 
fined paraffine wax in a tin boiler or pan over a slow fire- use 
car , e ^ ™eltmg. Wheu melted, remove the vessel from the fire 
and add 200 drops of oil of citronelli. Take some new round tin 
pie pans, and oil them with sweet oil as you would for pie bak¬ 
ing, but do not use lard. Put these pans on a level table, and 
pour m enough of the hot wax to make a depth in each pan 
equal to about the thickness of one-eighth of an inch. While 
hot, glance over the pans to see that they are level. As this is 
very essential please remember it. If the pans are not level, 
Slakes wiU be all thickness, which should not be so. Then let 
them cool but not too fast. Watch them closely, and have a tin 

t0 mu amp the cakes out about the size of an ordi- 
naiy lozenge. 'I his stamp should be about 8 inches long, larger 

thrmfo-h > ?h« ha ? at the bottom ’ so that th e cakes can pass up 
mvthaiw stamp as you are cutting them out of the pans! 

bal .?. s anot f her P an 10 C001 - Before they become very 
hard, separate them from each other; if not, it will be difficult 
to do so when they become very hard; do not neglect this 






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THE HOUSEHOLD. 


107 


Direction for Use.—T o a pint of boiling starch stir in 1 cake 
or tablet. This gives an excellent luster to linen or muslin, and 
imparts a splendid perfume to the clothes, and makes the iron 
pass very smoothly over the surface. It requires but half the 
ordinary labor t.o do an ironing. It is admired by every lady. 
It prevents the iron from adhering to the surface, and the clothes 
remain clean and neat much longer than by any other method. 

Mildew, From Linen.— 1 . To extract from linen, put 
strong soap and salt on the mildew spots, keep them moist and 
expose to the sun; repeat the process several times. The soap 
used should be soft, such as is home-made from the lye of wood 
ashes. 2. Mix soft soap and powdered starch, half as much salt 
and ,i uice of a lemon, put it on both sides with a brush, let it lay 
on the grass for a day and a night until the stains come out. 

Blew England Soap.— Take 3 pounds hard white soap, 
shave it up fine, dissolve it in lo quarts boiling water; add 1 
ounce salts of tartar, 3 ounces borax; then take" the same from 
the fire and set it away to cool; as soon as it becomes coo] 
enough to bear your hand in, add 1 ounce liquid ammonia; stir 
each article as you put it in. 

Patent Soap.— Half pint turpentine, 3 pints sal soda, 3 
pounds grease, 2 pounds resin soap, 40 gallons water; boil 1 hour 
and it is fit for use. This is a great soap. 

Soaps, Soft. — 1 . Put 114 pails lye that will bear an egg in the 
soap barrel and add 8 pounds of melted grease free from sedi¬ 
ment; thin with weak lye as it is obtained from the leach; stir 
occasionally. It should thicken and be ready for use in 2 or 3 
days, pi’oviding the weather is warm or the barrel stands in a 
warm place. 2. Three-quarters pound washing soda and 1 pound 
brown soap (cut in small pieces); put into a large stone jar on 
the back of the range when not very hot and pour over it a pail¬ 
ful of cold water; stir occasionally and when dissolved put it 
away to cool. It forms a sort of jelly, and is excellent to remove 
grease from floors and shelves. 

S°aj>s, Hard.—1 . Three pounds grease, 1 pound Babbitt's 
potash, 10 quarts water. *4 pound borax: boil 4 or 5 hours; pour 
into a square wooden box. and when cold cut into blocks and set 
away to dry. 2. Five pounds grease. 1 pound concentrated pot- 
ash. and 2 quarts water; put the potash into the water, and 
when dissolved heat the grease and add to it; let it stand over 
night and in the morning add 4 quarts of water and boil; turn 
out and set aside to dry. 

To «!aze Linen.— The gloss or enamel, as it is sometimes 
called, is produced mainly by friction with a warm iron and may 
be put on linen by almost any person. The linen to be glazed to 
receive as much strong stai’ch as it is possible for it to take up: 
then it is dried. To each pound of starch a piece of sperm or 
white wax about the size of a walnut is usually added; when 
ready to be ironed the linen is laid upon the table and moistened 
very lightly on the surface with a clean wet cloth; it is then 

























































108 


DEPARTMENT IV. 


ironed in the usual way with a flatiron, and is then ready for 
the glossing operation. For this purpose a flatiron weighing 
about 6 pounds is used; the heel of the iron is knocked off and 
made round and smooth; it should be heated as hot as possible, 
and the gloss is made by ironing across the fabric, instead of 
lengthways, as in the usual, the heel of the iron, or the rounded 
part, being used, not the face of the iron. “Elbow-grease” is the 
principal secret in the art of glossing linen. 

To Soften Hard Water.— Boil it and expose to the air; add 
a little soda. , 

Washing- Fluid.— Two pounds crude potash. 1 ounce sal am¬ 
moniac jounce saltpeter, 2 gallons rain water, 1 pint for 8 gal¬ 
lons of water and 1 pound soap; put the clothes to soak over 
night and rinse in the morning. 

Washing Powder.— Mix any quantity of soda ash with an 
equal portion of carbonate of soda (ordinary soda) crushed into 
coarse grains. Have a thin solution of glue or decoction of lin¬ 
seed oil ready, into which pour the soda, until quite thick. Spread 
it out on boards in a warm apartment to dry. 


RECIPES FOR CLEANING AND REPAIRING. 

In every department of household work these valuable recipes 
will be found of untold worth. Read carefuily. 

Barrels, To Clean.— 1 . Scald well with boiling water, and 
let the water stand until cold; then fill with cold water and 
throw in a large quantity of live coals from a wood fire, leaving 
the cask uncovered; by repeating this the casks may be made 
perfectly sweet, providing they have not at any time contained 
fish. 2. Fill with meal or bran and water and let stand until 
fermentation takes place. It will thoroughly cleanse them, and 
the mixture will afterwards do for food for hogs. 

Brass, To Clean.— See Silver Powders, etc., in The Chemist 
Department- 

Brass or Copper Kettles, To Clean;— A brass bell metal 

or copper kettle should be cleaned immediately after it is 
used. Even when not used it requires occasional cleaning, 
otherwise it will collect rust or verdigris, which is a strong 
poison. After washing the kettle with warm water; put into it 
a teacupful of vinegar and a tablespoonful of salt; place it over 
the fire, and when hot rub the kettle thoroughly with a cloth, 
taking care that the salt and vinegar touches every part, then 
wash with warm water; next take some wood ashes or fine sand 
and scour well; afterward wash with hot soap suds and finish 
by rinsing and wiping dry. 

Brilliant Self-Shining Stove Polish.— This is one of the 

greatest inventions of the age. It has been the result of a large 
amount of study on the part of the inventor to perfect a polish 



















































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THE HOUSEHOLD. 

that would work easily and satisfactorily in a perfectly dry state, 
thereby obviating the disagreeable task of mixing and preparing. 
A good stove polish is an absolute necessity in every family. It 
is only a question, then, of offering the best to make a sale. To 
prove that this polish is the best is an easy task. All you have 
to do is to have a box open and a piece of rag to begin operations. 
You now approach the stove and apply the polish. The result 
will be so startlingly beautiful that no further words will be 
necessary. If the is not convenient, anything will do to 

experiment with. You can produce on a piece of wood, a scrap 
of paper or a potato, a lustre equal to a burnished mirror. 

Recipe.— Take plumbago (black lead) finely pulverized and 
put in 2-ounce wood boxes, nicely labeled, and sell for 10 or 15 
cents a box. Wholesale to stoi’es and agents at $6 a hundred. 
Costs less than 3 cents a box to manufacture. 

Directions for Use.— Use a damp woolen rag, dip in the box, 
and apply to the stove Then polish with a dry cloth, and a 
most beautiful polish will appear. 

Brittannia, To Clean. —Recipes for cleaning Brittannia, 
Silver, etc, will be found in Department II., under the sub-head 
of “Gold and Silver Powders, etc.” 

Brushes, To Clean.— Hair brushes may be cleaned as fol¬ 
lows: Dissolve a piece of soda in some hot water, allowing a 
piece the size of a walnut to a quart of water. Put the water 
into a basin, and after combing out the hair from the brushes, 
dip them, bristles downward, into the water and out again, 
keeping the backs and handles as free from the water as possi¬ 
ble. Repeat this until the bristles look clean; then rinse the 
brushes in a little cold water; shake well, and wipe the handles 
and backs with a towel, but not the bristles, and set the brushes 
to dry in the sun. or near the fire; but take care not to put them 
too close to it. Wiping the bristles of a brush makes them soft, 
as does also the use of soap. 

Combs, To Clean.— If it can be avoided, never wash combs, 
as the water often makes the teeth split, and the tortoise shell or 
horn of which they are made, rough, Small brushes, manufac¬ 
tured purposely for cleaning combs, may be purchased at a 
trifling cost; with this the comb should be well brushed, and 
afterward wiped with a cloth or towel. 

Carpets, To Clean. - 1 . Shake and beat well, lay upon the 
floor and tack down firmly; then with a clean flannel cloth wash 
over with 1 quart of bullock’s gall, mixed with 3 quarts of cold 
soft water, then rub it off with a clean flannel or linen cloth. 
Any very dirty spots should be rubbed with pure gall. 2. If the 
carpets are so much soiled as to require cleaning all over, after 
the dirt has been shaken out, spread on a clean floor and rub on 
them with a new broom grated raw potatoes; let the carpets re¬ 
main until dry before walking on them. 3. Half a bar of castile 
soap, 2 ounces borax, 2 ounces washing soda: boil in *4 gallon 
of water until dissolved then add 2 gallons of tepid water and 











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110 


DEPARTMENT IV. 


boil 10 minutes; when cold add y z pint of alcohol: rub on with 
clean piece of flannel. 

Carpets and Floor Cloths, To Remo ve Orease From. 

—1. Aqua ammonia 2 ounces, soft water 1 quart, saltpeter 1 tea¬ 
spoonful,soap shavingsl ounce; mix well; shake and let it stand 
24 hours before using to dissolve the soap; when used pour on 
enough to cover any grease or oil that has been spilled, spraying 
and rubbing well, and apply again if necessary; then wash off 
with clean cold water. 


Carpets, To Remove Ink. From.— As soon as the ink has 

been spilled take up as much as you can with a sponge, and then 
pour on cold water repeatedly, still taking up the liquid; next 
rub the place with a little oxalic acid dissolved in cold water; 
then rub on some hartshorn. 


Ceiling's, To Clean.— See Wall Papers to Clean. 

Floors, To Clean.— Take M pound of Puller’s earth and \i 
pound pearlash; make them into a paste with about a quart of 
boiling water; spread a thick coating of this over the grease- 
stains and leave it for 10 or 12 hours; then wash it off with clean 
water, using sand if necessary. If the grease stains are very nu¬ 
merous and the floor very dirty a coating may be spread all over 
the floor and left for 24 hours before it is washed off. In wash¬ 
ing boards never wash crossways, but always up and down with 
the grain. 

Furniture, To Clean.— 1. To improve the appearance of 
furniture, take a soft sponge wet with clean cold water and wash 
over the article, then take a soft chamois skin and wipe; dry the 
skin by wringing, and wipe the furniture, being careful to wipe 
only one way; never use a dry chamois on varnish work. In 
deeply-carved work the dust cannot be removed with a sponge; 
use a stiff-haired paint brush instead; for unpolished furniture, 
linseed oil is the best for cleaning; rub it thoroughly. 2. Kero¬ 
sene is excellent for cleaning furniture, either walnut or oak. 
3. The following is excellent for cleaning and polishing old fur¬ 
niture: Make a mixture of a quart of cold beer or vinegar, with 
a handful of common salt and a tablespoonful of muriatic acid 
and boil for 15 minutes; put it in a bottle and warm when 
wanted for use; wash the furniture with soft hot water, so as 
to remove the dirt, then apply the mixture, then polish with a 
soft flannel rag. 


Note.—F or complete list of polishes see “Polishes,” All Trades 

Department. 


Furniture Polisli.— 1. Beeswax y z pound, alkanet jounce; 
melt together in a pipkin until the former is well colored; then 
add linseed oil and spirits of turpentine, of each y z gill; strain 
through a piece of coarse muslin. 2. Equal parts of sweet oil 
and vinegar and a pint of gum arabic finely powdered; shake 
the bottle and apply with a rag. It will make furniture look as 




T'V 


















































THE HOUSEHOLD. 


Ill 


( 




good as new.—3 (French Furniture Polish). Alcohol 98 per cent 
1 pint, gum copal and shellac, of each 1 ounce, dragon’s blood; 
mix and dissolve by setting in a warm place. 4 . Best vinegar 
1 pint, turpentine 14 pint; mix and apply with a brush. 5. One 
pint of boiled oil, 4 ounces of vinegar, 2 ounces of spirits of 
camphor, 1 ounce of ammonia, 14 ounce of antimony; shake and 
let stand 2 or 3 days before using. 6. Rectified spirits of wine 
14 pint, gum shellac 14 ounce, pulverized rozum 14 ounce, raw 
linseed oil 14 pint; put gums into rectified wine and, when thor¬ 
oughly dissolved, mix with linseed oil; shake well before using. 
7 . For French polishing cabinet-makers use: Pale shellac 1 
pound, mastic 1 2-5 ounces; alcohol of 90 per cent standard 1 to 
11-5 pints; dissolve cold, with frequent stirring. 

Gilt Frames, To Brighten.—' Take sufficient flour of sul¬ 
phur to give a golden tinge to about 114 pints of water, and in 
this boil 4 or 5 bruised onions, or garlic, which will answer the 
same purpose; strain off the liquid, and with it, when cold, wash, 
with a soft brush, any gilding which requires restoring, and 
when dry it will come oxit as bright as new work. They may 
also be brightened in the following manner: Beat up the white 
of eggs with chloride of potassa or soda, in the proportion of 3 
ounces of eggs to 1 ounce of chloride of potassa or soda; blow off 
as much dust as possible from the frames, and paint them over 
with a soft brush dipped in the above mixture; they will imme¬ 
diately come out fresh and bright. 

How to Polish Horns.— First boil the horn to remove the 
pith, if it has been freshly taken from the animal. If it is an 
old, dry horn, the pith may be dried out, and boiling is not ne¬ 
cessary; but it may be laid in hot water for a short time to make 
it soft. Then scrape off all the roughness with a coarse file, a 
knife or a piece of glass. When the rough spots are removed 
rub around the horn with coarse sandpaper, then with a finer 
kind. After this, rub the horn lengthwise with a flannel cloth 
which has been dipped in powdered pumice stone or rotten 
stone, and moistened in linseed oil. This rubbing should con¬ 
tinue till all the sandpaper marks are removed, then give a final 
rubbing with a clean flannel cloth, and lastly, with a piece of tis¬ 
sue paper. 

Liquid Stove Polish.— Mix 2 parts of copperas, 1 of bone 
black, 1 of pulverized graphite, with sufficient water to form a 
creamy paste. This stove polish is as nearly odorless as 
possible. 

Mahogany Furniture Varnish.— Take of proof alcohol 1 
quart, cut therein all the gum shellac it will take, add 2 ounces 
of Venice turpentine, and coloring to suit. This makes a beau¬ 
tiful polish and will wear for years. 

To Take Stains Out of Mahogany.— Mix spirits of salts 
6 parts, salt of lemons 1 part, then drop a little on the stains, 
and rub them till they disappear. 

Piano Polish.— Take equal proportions of turpentine, lin- 



























































112 


DEPARTMENT IV. 






seed oil and vinegar; mix; rub in well with a piece of flannel 
cloth. Then polish with a piece of chamois skin. This treat¬ 
ment will entirely remove the dingy appearance that age gives 
to fine woods. 

Polish for Removing Stains, Spots anel Mildew 
from Furniture. —Take of 98 per cent alcohol y 2 pint, pul¬ 
verized resin and gum shellac, of each 34 ounce. Let these cut 
in the alcohol; then add linseed oil y 2 pint; shake well, and ap¬ 
ply with a sponge, brush, or cotton flannel, or an old newspaper, 
rubbing it well after the application, which gives a nice polish. 

To Renew Old Oil Paintings.— The blackened lights of 
old pictures may be instantly restoi'ed to their original hue by 
touching them with deutoxide of hydrogen diluted with 6 or 8 
times its weight of water. The part must be afterward washed 
with a clean sponge and water. 

To Get f» Broken Fork Out of a Bottle.— If in drawing 

a cork, it breaks, and the lower part falls down into the liquid, 
tie a long loop in a bit of twine, or small cord, and put it in, 
holding the bottle so as to bring the piece of cork near to the 
lower part of the neck. Catch it in the loop, so as to hold it sta¬ 
tionary. You can then easily extract it with a corkscrew. 

A Wash for Cleaning Silver.— Mix together y 2 ounce of 
fine salt, y 2 ounce of powdered alum, y 2 ounce of cream of tartar; 
put them into a large whiteware pitcher, and pour on 2 quarts 
of water, and stir them frequently, till entirely dissolved. Then 
transfer the mixture to clean bottles, and cork them closely. Be¬ 
fore using it, shake the bottles well. Pour some of the liquid 
into a bowl, and wash the silver all over with it, using an old. 
soft, fine linen cloth. Let it stand about 10 minutes, and then 
rub it dry, with a buckskin. It will make the silver look 
like new. 

Glass, To Clean.—1. Soda in water will clean glass. 2. 
Take powdered indigo, dip into it a moistened linen rag, smear 
over the glass with it, and then wipe it off with a perfectly dry 
cloth or finely-sifted wood ashes applied bp a rag dipped in'alco¬ 
hol or ammonia will answer just as well. 

Glass Windows, To Prevent Steaming.— Clean the glass 
occasionally with a cloth moistened with pure glycerine, wiping 
it so as to leave only a trace of the glycerine adhering to the sur¬ 
face—this on the inside. 

Ivory, To Clean.— To clean and preserve the color of ivory 
ornaments, brooches, card-cases, bracelets, chains, etc., place 
the articles to be cleansed in a basin of cold water and allow 
them to stand for 24 hours. Take them out of the water and lay 
them on a clean, soft towel, but do not wipe them, they must dry 
by the air, and any water that remains in the carving of the ivory 
should be blown out; if allowed to settle on the ivory it would 
destroy tne color. 

Lamp Chimneys, To Clean.— Rub lamp chimneys with 



















































THE HOUSEHOLD. 


113 




newspapers on which has heen poured a little kerosene. This 
will make them much clearer than if soap is used; they will also 
be less liable to crack. 

Lamp Burners, To Clean. —Wash them in ashes and wa¬ 
ter, and they will come out clean and bright. 

Looking Classes, To Clean.— Remove with a damp sponge 
fly stains and other soils (the sponge may be damped with water 
or spirits ol‘ wine). After this dust the surface with the finest 
sifted whiting or powder-blue and polish it with a silk handker¬ 
chief or soft cloth. Snuff of candle, if quite free from grease, is 
an excellent polish for looking glasses. 

Marble, To Clean.—1. Take 2 parts of soda, 1 of pumice 
stone, and 1 of finely-powdered chalk: sift these through a fine 
sieve and mix them into a paste with water; rub this well all 
over the marble and the stains will be removed; then wash it in 
soap and water and a beautiful brignt polish will be produced. 
2. Muriatic acid 2 pounds, acetic acid pound, verdigris M 
ounce; mix and apply with a brush; .wash the stone after with 
sponge and water; after the stone is clean rub it smooth with 
pumice stone, keeping it wet with water; after some little prac¬ 
tice you can clean an old. dirty tombstone so that a marble cut¬ 
ter cannot detect it froni being new work. 

Paint, To Clean.— See Magic Annihilator in Renovating 
Recipes, also To Renovate Black Goods. Either of these recipes 
is excellent for naint. Royal Washing Powder in Laundry Rec¬ 
ipes is also good. 

Paint, Glue Paint for Kitchen Floors.— To 3 pounds 
spruce yellow add 1 pound, or 2 if desired, of dry white lead, and 
mix well together; dissolve 2 ounces of glue in 1 quart of water, 
stirring often until smooth and nearly boiling; thicken.the gum 
water after the manner of mush, until it will spread smoothly 
upon the floor. Use a common paint brush and apply hot. 

Rust, To Remove From Steel.—1. Every narticle of iron 
rust when the iron is not eaten into may be removed by soften¬ 
ing it with petroleum (kerosene), and then rubbing well with 
coarse sandpaper. 2. Rub well with sweet oil and in 48 hours 
use unslacked lime powdered very fine; rub until the rust disap¬ 
pears. 

Rust on Tin, —If tinware is well rubbed with lard and then 
with common unslaked lime before being put away it will never 
rust; this is also the best plan to remove rust. 2. Rub fresh lard 
on every part, then put it in an oven and heat it thoroughly; 
thus treated any tinware may be used in water constantly and 
remain bright and free from rust indefinitely. 

Silver, To Clean.—1. Silver-plate can be beautifully cleaned 
and made to look like new by dipping a soft cloth or chamois- 
skin in a weak preparation of ammonia water and rubbing the 
articles with it. 2. Wash in hot water containing a quantity of 
concentrated lye, or if very black boil for some time in soft wa- 


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DEPARTMENT TV. 

ter with a considerable amount of washing soda added; then 
wash in a good suds; rinse in clear water, and rub with a flannel 
cloth or, better, soft chamois-skin. 

Silvers, Powders and Liquids for Plating and Pol¬ 
ishing .—(See Chemical Department.) 

Sponges, To Clean.— The following is a very simple and 
certain way of cleaning sponges from grease or any other im¬ 
purities: Take some soda and break it up; measure about 3 ta- 
blespoonsful, put it (as much as you can) into the holes of the 
sponge, and keep the rest; then fill a large jug with boiling wa¬ 
ter and immediately put in your sponge and all your soda; cover 
over and leave it standing for about 12 hours; after you rinse it 
well you will see the sponge look almost like a new one. 

Gilt Jewelry, To Clean.— Wash the brooch, earrings, etc., 
with soap and water; rinse, and with a small, soft brush wash 
the article with spirits of hartshorn. * 

Tight Ring, To Remove.— If the finger on which the ring 
has been placed has swollen, and there seems to be a difficulty of 
removing the ring, pass a needle and cotton under it, pull the 
cotton up toward the hand and twist the remaining cotton round 
the finger several times until it reaches the nail. By taking hold 
of the end nearest the hand it is generally an easy matter to 
slide the ring off the finger, however much difficulty there may 
have appeared in doing so before the experiment was tried. 

Grease Eraser.— Benzine, alcohol, ether, equal parts: mix; 
apply with sponge (patting the spot); put a piece of blotting pa¬ 
per on each side and iron with a hot flatiron. 

Gold Chains, To Clean.— Let the article required to be 
cleaned stand for some time in a solution of caustic potash until 
all the adhering dirt is removed. 

White Silk Eaee, To Clean.— The lace is stretched over 
small clean strips of wood to keep it evenly spread out, laid over 
night in warm milk, to which a little soap has been added, and 
rinsed in fresh water, laid for the same length of time in warm 
soap-lye, and finally rinsed without any friction. Linen lace is 
best cleaned by covering the outside of a large glass bottle 
smoothly with stout linen or white flannel, upon winch the lace 
is sewn in a number of coils, and over the whole some coarse 
open tissue is secured. The bottle thus dressed is allowed to 
soak for a time in lukewarm soft water, and the outside wrap¬ 
ping is then rubbed with soap and a piece of flannel After this 
the bottle is laid to steep for some hours in clean soft, water. It 
is then rolled between dry towels, dipped in rice water, and 
rolled again. Finally the damp lace is unfastened from the bot¬ 
tle and ironed between linen cloths. 

3 To Destroy the Effects of Acid on Clothes.— Dampen 

as soon as possible after exposure to the acid with spirits of am¬ 
monia; it will destroy the effect immediately. 

Rendering Textiles Fireproof.— Dr. Doremus reconv 


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THE HOUSEHOLD. 


115 


mends phosphate of ammonia as a highly effective agent in ren¬ 
dering textiles uninflammable The fabrics are dipped in a wa¬ 
tery solution of the salt, wrung out and dried, when, it is said, 
they will be found completely uninflammable. They will black¬ 
en, of course, and be destroyed where the flame touches them, 
but the flame will not spread, neither will there be any residue 
of red-hot cinders. 

To Clean Brassware. —Mix 1 ounce of oxalic acid, 6 ounces 
of rotten stone, all in powder, 1 ounce of sweet oil, and sufficient 
water to make a paste; apply a small proportion and rub dry 
with a flannel or leather. The liquid dip most generally used 
consists of nitric and sulphuric acids, but this is more corro¬ 
sive. 

Stove Polish, To Make.— 1 . See “Brilliant Self-Shining 
Stove Polish” at beginning of this department. 2. One-haif 
pound black lead finely powdered, the whites of 3 eggs well 
beaten: dilute with sour beer until it becomes as thin as shcx* 
blacking; after stirring, set over hot coals to simmer for “0 
minutes; when cold, it may be kept for use. 3. Polish for 
Grates: One pound of common asphaltum, pint of linseed oil, 
1 quart of oil of turpentine. Melt the asphaltum. and add gradu¬ 
ally 7 to it the other two ingredients. Apply this with a small 
painter’s brush, and leave it to become perfectly dry. The grate 
will need no other cleaning, but will merely require dusting 
every day. and occasionally bru hing with a dry black lead brush. 
This is. of course, when no fires are used. When they are re¬ 
quired. the bars, che ks and back of grate will need black-lead¬ 
ing in the usual manner. 

To Polish Tortoise Shell.— When by wear tortoise shell 
articles have lost their luster, the polished surface may be re¬ 
stored to its original condition by carefully rubbing with pow¬ 
dered rottenstone and oil. The rottenstone should be carefully 
sifted through the finest muslin. When all scratches on the sur¬ 
face of a tortoise shell are thus removed, a brilliant polish may 
be given to it by applying gentle friction with a piece of soft 
leather, to which some jeweler’s rouge has been applied. 

Treasury Department Whitewash. —The best in use. 
This wash is equally good on wood, brick or stone; is nearly as 
durable as paint and much cheaper. Slack % bushel of unslacked 
lime with boiling water, keeping it covered during the process; 
strain it and add a peck of salt dissolved in warm water; 3 
pounds ground rice, put in boiling water and boiled to a thin 
paste: *4 pound powdered Spanish whiting and 1 pound of clear 
glue dissolved in hot water: mix these well together and let the 
mixture stand for several days. Keep the wash thus prepared 
in a kettle or portable furnace, and when used put it on as hot 
as possible with painter’s or whitewash brushes. 

>To Paper Whitewashed Walls.— Make a flour starch as 
you would for starching calico clothes, and with a whitewash 
brush wet with the starch the wall you wish to paper. Let it 













































116 


DEPARTMENT IV. 


dry; then, when it is wanted to apply the paper wet both the 
wall and paper with the starch, and apply the paper in the or¬ 
dinary way. 

To Clean Wall Paper.— The following is a most excellent 
ard simple method of cleaning wallpaper, and can be used with 
confidence in every house: Take 1 quart of flour and stir in 5 
cents’ worth of ammonia and enough water to make a stiff 
dough; work and knead until smooth, then wipe the paper with 
this batch of dough, working it so that a clean surface will be 
presented with every stroke. Go over the paper in this w r ay and 
ycur wall paper will be clean. 


PESTS. 

Recipes for the destruction of roaches, bugs, flier and other 
household pests. 

Ants, Black.— 1 . A strong solution of carbolic acid and wa¬ 
ter poured into holes kills all ants it touches, and the survicors 
immediately take themselves off. 2. A few leaves of green 
wormwood scattered among the haunts of these troublesome in¬ 
sects is said to be effective in dislodging them. 

Ants, Red.— 1 . Set a quantity of cracked walnuts or shell- 
barks on plates, and put them in the closets and other places 
where the ants congregate. They are very fond of these and 
will collect on them in myriads; when they have collected, turn 
nuts and ants together into the fire, and then replenish the 
plates with fresh nuts. After they have become thinned out, 
powder some camphor and put in the holes and crevices. 2. 
Grease a plate with lard and set it where the ants are trouble¬ 
some; place a few sticks around the plate for the ants to climb 
upon; occasionally turn the plate over a fire where there is no 
smoke, and the pests will drop off into it; continue the opera¬ 
tion until they are all caught; they wil - * trouble nothing else 
while lard is near them. 

Bed Bug's.—!. (See “Magic Annihilator” in Renovating Rec¬ 
ipes.) 2. Tatte the furniture in which they harbor to pieces and 
wash all the joints with soap and boiling water, carefully ex¬ 
ploring all the cracks and openings with a stiff piece of wire; 
when the wood is dry, saturate the joints with kerosene oil, 
using a small paint brush: fill up the cracks with a mixture of 
plaster and linseed oil. If the roams are papered, saturate the 
places where the paper joins the baseboards with benzine, using 
a brush or sponge, and carefully avoiding the presence of arti¬ 
ficial light; do the same with linings of trunks. If the floor 
cracks are infested, fill them with plaster and linseed oil. 3. 
Two ounces of red arsenic, pound of white soap, % ounce of 
camphor dissolved in a teaspoonful of alcohol, made into a paste 
of the consistency of cream; place this mixture in the openings 
and cracks of the bedstead. 





























































^ Be « es * —Plf !l ce 2 or 3 shallow vessels half filled with water on 
the floors where they assemble, with strips of cardboard run- 
xiing from the edge of the vessel to the floor; they will eagerlv 
ascend and find a watery grave. B y 

Carpet Buss-— Make a solution of 1 tablespoonful of corro¬ 
sive sublimate in a quart of hot water, and saturate the floors 
and cracks of walls or closets; a weaker solution can be used to 
sponge the carpets: it is a sure cure. 

Crickets. Sprinkle a little quicklime near the cracks 
through which they enter the room; the lime may be laid down 
over night and swept away in the moraine. 

Cock roaches.— Mix together thoroughly 1 pound of pow¬ 
dered sugar, 1 pound of powdered borax and 10 cents’ worth of 
pans green; put in all places which they infest with a puffer or 
blower. 

Croton Bugs. —They attack the starch or sizing in the cloth 
covers of books, and often destroy the gold to secure the little 
albumen used in the work. Take a plentiful supply of powder 
in which pyrethrum is the principal ingredient; with a small 
bellows throw this powder among the books on the shelves and 
allow it to remain. This operation performed once a year will 
be sufficient to kill them out. 

Fleas.— 1 . The oil of pennyroyal will drive these insects off, 
but a cheaper method, where the herb grows, is to throw the cat 
or dog whom they infest into a decoction of it once a week* 
when the herb cannot be obtained the oil can be used. Saturate 
cloths with it and tie around the necks of the dogs and cats 
These applications should be repeated every 12 or 15 days 2 
Oil of cloves 2 y 2 drams, carbolic acid l / 2 dram, cologne 3 ounces 
diluted alcohol 2 ounces; sprinkle bedding, beds, etc. 

Flies.— See Sticky Fly Paper in Household Miscellany. 

I 1 Iy Poison. Sugar l / 2 ounce, y 2 ounce thoroughly ground 
black pepper; make it to thin paste and place it on paper where 
the flies congregate. 

Gnats —The best preventative against gnats, as well as the 
best cure for their stings, is camphor. 

Insect Powders, Persian.— The powder is the pulverized 
flowers of pyrethrum, carneum, and roseum. growing on the 
Caucasian mountains: it is not poisonous to man unless inhaled 
or swallowed in large quantities, but it is sure death to insect life 
m all its forms: first stupifying and then killing; scattered over 
the bedding and clothing or person it destroys bed bugs lice etc 
for flies and mosquitoes the best way of application is by burn¬ 
ing it; take a teaspoonful of the powder in a dish of any kind 
and set fire to it; a dense smoke arises which destroys the in¬ 
sect*. A tincture prepared by placing 1 part of the powder in 4 
of alcohol distilled with 10 times its bulk of water and applied 
to the body is said to be a perfect protection against vermin of 






flJPNuinjMQ') 
























































all kinds, while hellebore answers 
cheaper. 

How to Destroy Insects.— The Bureau of Entomology,De¬ 
partment of Agriculture, Washington, sends out the following, 
for use as insecticides on or about plants, etc.: London Purple: 
To 20 pounds of flour from 14 to 14 pound is added and well 
mixed. This is applied with a sifter or blower. With 40 gallons 
of water 14 to 14 pound is mixed for spraying. Paris Green: 
With 20 pounds of flour from ^ to 1 pound is mixed and applied 
bv sifting or by a blower. The same amount of insecticide to 
40 gallons of water is used as a spray. Bisulphate of Carbon: 
For use in the ground a quantity is poured or injected among , 
the roots that are being infected. Against insects damaging 
stored grain or museum material a small quantity is used in an 
air-tight vessel. Carbolic Acid; A solution of 1 partin 100 of 
water is used against parasites on domestic animals and their 
barns and sheds; also on the surface of plants and among the 
roo s in the ground. Helebore: The powder is sifted on alone 
or mixed 1 part to 20 of flour. With 1 gallon of water 14 pound 
is mixed for spraying. Kerosene-Milk Emulsion: To 1 part of 
milk add 2 parts of kerosene, and churn by force pump or other 
agitator. The butter-like emulsion is diluted ad libitum with 
water. An easier method is to simply mix 1 part of kerosene 
with 8 of milk. Scap Elmusion: In 1 gallon of hot water 14 
pound of whale oil soap is dissolved. This, instead of milk, is 
mixed to an emulsion with kerosene in the same manner and 
proportion as above. Pyrethrum, Persian Insect Powder; Is 
blown or sifted on dry, also applied in water 1 gallon to a table¬ 
spoonful of the powder, well stirred and then sprayed. Tobacco 
Decoction: This is used as strong as possible as a wash or spray 
to kill insect pests on animals and plants. 

Iiice.— Wash with a simple decoction of stavesacre or with a 
lotion made of the bruised seed in vinegar, or with the tincture, 
or rub in a salve made with the seeds and 4 times their weight 
of lard, very carefully beaten together. The acid solution and 
the tincture are the cleanest and most agreeable preparation; 
but all will destroy both the vermin and their eggs, and relieve 
the intolerable itching which their casual presence leaves be¬ 
hind on many sensitive skins. White precipitate ointment is 
also effective. 

Mosquitoes.— 1 . Three ounces sweet oil, 1 ounce carbolic 
acid thoroughly applied upon the hands, face, and all exposed 
parts, carefully avoiding the eyes, once every half hour when 
they are troublesome, or for the first two or three days until the 
skin is filled with it, and after this its application will be neces¬ 
sary only at times. 2. Six parts sweet oil, 1 part creosote, 1 
part pennyroyal; oil of pennyroyal alone is very effectual, pen¬ 
nyroyal and oil of peppermint is also used. 

Moths.— 1 . Steep % pound of cayenne pepper in 1 gallon of 
water; add 2 drams of strychnia powder; straip and pour this 




V 



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tea into a shallow vessel. Before unrolling a new carpet set the 
roll on each end alternately in this poisoned tea for 10 minutes, 
or long enough to wet its edges for at least an inch. After beat¬ 
ing an old carpet, roll and treat its seams and edges to the same 
bath: let the carpet dry thoroughly before tacking it down in 
order to avoid the accidental poisoning of the tacker’s fingers by 
the liquid. If preserved for future use, carefully label ‘'poison.” 
This preparation will not stain or disfigure carpets or corrode 
metals in contact with the carpet. 2. If fine-cut tobacco be 
sprinkled under the edges of carpets and under places where 
bureaus, bookcases and the like may make it dark, the moths 
will be prevented from laying their eggs there, as it will drive 
them away. 3. Tarred paper, the same as is used for covering 
roofs, when cut into slips and placed in convenient situations 
under carpets and behind sofas and chairs in a room will repel 
the moth miller from depositing its eggs. If similar strips are 
placed inside the backs and seats of parlor suits, it will render 
the furniture moth proof.4. Sprinkle furs or woolen stuffs, and 
the drawers or boxes in which they are kept, with spirits of tur¬ 
pentine, the unpleasant smell of which will evaporate on expos¬ 
ure of the goods to the air. Camphor gum is also a preventative 
for moths. Goods packed in a cedar chest are moth proof. If 
clothing is exposed to the air and well beaten occasionally it 
will prevent moths from depositing their eggs. Light and fresh 
air are the sworn foes of moths. 




Rat, Mouse ami Roach Exterminator.— One pint of 
alcohol, M oz. cayenne pepper, 1 oz. powdered anise seod, oz. 
saltpeter, ^ oz. white lead, 4 ozs. essence of hops; steam this 
slowly for an hour, then add 30 drops quassia; let stand 48 
hours, and add 1 gallon of water; bottle for use. To use, satu¬ 
rate bread, meat etc., and lay it in their frequented places. In 
two nights not one will be seen. 



HOUSEHOLD MISCELLANY. 




v\ 




anal. 


Reds, Rampness In.— After the bed is warmed put a glass 
globe in between the sheets, and if the bed be damp a few drops 
of wet will appear on the inside of the glass. 

Bread, To Keep Moist.— Keep a large earthen jar (a cover 
of the same material is better than a wooden one) and have it 
aired and fresh: let the bread be well covered after it is taken 
from the oven; then place it in the jar and cover closely. 

Butter, Rancid, To Sweeten.— Put 15 drops of chloride 
of lime to 1 pint of cold water, and wash the butter with it until 
every particle has come in contact with the water; then work it 
over'in pure cold water. 

Candle, To Burn Slowly.— Put finely powdered salt on the 
candle till % <»s the black portion of the wick; it will give a 


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, -ft mjj/j 





























































DEPARTMENT IV. 


120 

dull light, suitable for the sick room, and be sure to last the 
entire nignt. 

Cellars, Freezing 1 In. —Paste the wall and ceiling over with 
4 or 5 thicknesses of newspapers, make a curtain of the same ma¬ 
terial, paste over the window at the top of the cellar; paste the 
papers to the base joist overhead, leaving an air space between 
them and the floor; it is better to use a coarse brown paper; 
whatever paper is employed sweep down the walls thoroughly, 
and use a very strong size to hold the paper to the stones; it is 
not necessary to press the paper down into all the depressions of 
the wall; every air space beneath it is an additional defense 
against the cold. 

Cisterns, Waterproofing.— To make cisterns and tanks 
waterproof paint thickly on the inside with a mixture composed 
of 8 parts of melted glue and 4 parts of linseed oil, boiled with 
litharge; in 48 hours after application it will have hardened so 
that the cistern or tank can be filled with water. 

Cistern W r ater, To Clear.— 1 . Never allow a mudhole to 
remain about a well. If the water is muddy and impure throw 
in a peck of lime to purify it; if animaculse appear in the water 
throw in gallon of salt to make them settle to the bottom. 2. 
Add 2 ounces powdered alum and 2 ounces borax to a 20-barrel 
cistern of rain water that is blackened or oily and in a few hours 
the sediment will settle and the water be clarified and fit for 
washing. 

Cistern Water, To Keep Sweet.— 1 . To prevent cistern 
water from becoming impure, uave the supply pipe run nearly 
to the bottom of the well, where the purest water is always to be 
obtained. 2. First collect the water in a tank, and filter it into 
the cistern below the surface; this will remove the organic mat¬ 
ters and prevent fermentation. Care should be taken to prevent 
surface drainage into it. 3. The spout from the roof should have 
a joint in it which can be drawn aside so as to prevent any wa¬ 
ter falling on the roof from reaching the cistern; it should be 
kept drawn aside during dry weather; when rain comes on al¬ 
low the roof to get thoroughly washed off before replacing the 
joint; if this be done the water will always be clear and fit to 
drink. 4 . Drop into the cistern a large piece of common char¬ 
coal. 

Clinkers in Stoves, To Remove. —When the firebricks 

have become covered with clinkers which have fused and ad¬ 
hered they may be cleaned by throwing oyster or clam shells in 
the firebox when the fire is very hot and allowing the fire to go 
out. The clinkers will generally cleave off without the use of 
ihuch force the next morning. From 1 quart to a peck will be 
sufficient for most stoves, and the operation can be repeated if 
some of the clinkers still adhere. Salt sprinkled on clinkers ad¬ 
hering to firebrick will also loosen them. 

Clothes, Burning, To extinguish. —The clothes of fe¬ 
males and children, when on fire, may be most readily extin- 


















































































THE HOUSEHOLD. 


121 


guished by rolling the sufferer in the carpet, hearthrug, table 
cover, or any other woolen article at hand; if this be expertly 
done, the flames may be rapidly put out, unless the skirt of the 
dress be distended by hoops or crinoline, when there is great 
difficulty in staying the progress of the flames; should assist¬ 
ance not be at hand, the person whose clothes are on fire should 
throw herself on the ground and roll the carpet round her; or, if 
such a thing is not in the room, she should endeavor to extin¬ 
guish the flames with her hands, and by rapidly rolling over and 
over on the floor; in this way the fire will be stifled, or the com¬ 
bustion will proceed so slowly that less personal injury will be 
experienced before assistance arrives. 

Coal, Artificial.— 1 . Sifted peat 125 parts, river mud 10 
parts, anthracite dust 1,000 parts, residues of schist oil 100 
parts, or dry coal pitch 120 parts; mix. 2. Small coal, charcoal 
or sawdust 1 part, clay, loam or marl 1 part, sand or ashes 2 
parts, water of sufficient quantity to mix up wet into balls for 
use; these balls are piled on an ordinary fire to a little above the 
top bar; they are said to produce a heat considerably more in¬ 
tense than that of common fuel, and insures a saving of one- 
half the quantity of coals, while a fire thus made up will require 
no sirring, nor fresh fuel for 10 hours. The quantity of the 
combustible ingredient in them should be doubled when they 
are intended to be used with a very little foundation of coal. 

Coal Oil, To Test.— In a small cup or glass place a small 
quantity of oil to be tested; immerse in the oil tbebulbof a good 
thermometer; suspend the cup containing the oil in a vessel of 
water; move about close to the surface of the oil a lighted taper, 
and note the degree on the thermometer at which the oil begins 
to emit inflammable vapor (the flashing point), and again that 
at which the oil inflames; oil to be used in lamps should not 
take fire below 112 degrees Fahrenheit. In applying the lighted 
taper the flame must be kept away from the glass of the 
thermometer. 

Coal, To Protect.— Soft coal should be kept protected from 
the frost, rain or snow; if allowed to become wet and subjected ' 
to alternate heat and cold, it will crumble and become difficult 
to handle and hard to burn; dry coal is tolerably clean to 
handle, while it kindles easily and produces comparatively 
little smoke. 

Corkscrews, Substitutes For.— A convenient substitute 
for a corkscrew may be found in the use of a common screw, 
with an attached string to pull the cork: or, stick two steel 
forks vertically into the cork on opposite sides, not too near the 
edge, run the blade of a knife through the two, and give a twist. 

Corks, To Remove*— With a stout string projected into the 
bottle, turn the bottle around until the cork is caught in the loop 
of the string, and with force pull out the cork. 

Cream, To Keep.— Cream already skimmed maybe kept 24 
hours if scalded without sugar. and. by adding to it as much 

































































122 


DEPARTMENT IV. 


powdei,-. a mmp sugar as will make it sweet, it will keep good 2 
days in a cool place. 

Moors, Creaking-.— Rub a little soap or a mixture of tallow 
and black lead on the hinges; or apply to them with a feather a 
little sweet or sperm oil once or twice a year. 

Fabrics, To Make Fireproof.— Eighty parts pure sul¬ 
phate of ammonia. 26 parts carbonate of ammonia, 30 parts bo- 
i acic acid, 12 parts pure borax, 20 parts search; 1,000 parts dis¬ 
tilled water; dip in this while it is hot; dry and iron. 

Fire Kimllers.— To make very nice fire kindlers take resin 
any quantity and melt it, putting in for each pound being used 2 
or 3 ounces of tallow and when all is hot stir in pine sawdust to 
make very thick; while yet hot spread it out about 1 inch 
thick tipon boards which have fine sawdust sprinkled upon 
them to prevent it from sticking. When cold break up in lumps 
about an inch square; but if for sale take a thin board and press 
upon it while yet warm, to lay it off into inch squares. This 
makes it break regularly if you press the crease sufficiently deep. 
Grease the marked board to prevent it sticking. 

Flies, To Drive From a Room. —Place a castor-oil plant 
in the room and the flies will leave. 

Sticky Fly Paper.— Boiled linseed oil and resin; melt and 
add honey. Soak the paper in a strong solution of alum, then 
dry before applying the above. (See also “Pests.”) 

Ice, To Keep.— 1 . Small quantities of ice may be preserved 
in summer by making a bag lai*ge enough to hold the ice; then 
make another much larger bag and fill the space between with 
sawdust or feathers. 2. Cut a piece of flannel about 9 inches 
square and secure it by a ligature round the mouth of an ordi¬ 
nary tumbler, so as to leave a cup-shaped depression of flannel 
within the tumbler of about half its depth. In the flannel cup so 
constructed pieces of ice may be preserved many hours; all the 
longer if a flannel 4 or 5 inches square be used 'as a loose cover 
to the ice-cup; cheap flannel with comparativelv open meshes is 
preferable, as water easily drains through it, arid the ice is thus 
kept quite dry; when good flannel with close texture is employed 
a small hole must be made in rhe bottom of the flannel cut, oth¬ 
erwise it holds water and facilitates the melting of the ice. 

Ramp Chimneys, To Prevent Cracking.— 1 . Place the 
chimney in a pot filled with cold water; add a little cooking salt, 
allow the mixture to boil well over a fire and cool slowly; chim¬ 
neys become very durable by this process, which may be extended 
to crockery, stoneware, porcelain, etc.; the process is simply one 
of annealing, and the slower the process, especially the cooling 
portion of it, the more effective will be the work. 2. If the chim¬ 
ney glass of a lamp be cut with a diamond on the convex side it 
will never crack, as the incision affords room for expansion pro¬ 
duced by the heat, and the glass, after it is cool, returns to its 
original shape, with only a scratch visible where the cut is 
made. 





















































Eamp-Eighters.— Cut old postal cards lengthwise into 
strips y s of an inch wide; they burn readily, do not give off sparks 
and leave scarcely a trace of ashes. 

Lamps, Night, to Make.—1. Take a cork about 1 inch 
across, and cut a piece off the top about % inch thick; make a 
hole in the center; take a piece of tin the size of the little finger 
nail and make a small hole in the center sufficient to hold a com¬ 
mon white cord; fill a common goblet % full of water and pour 
over that about y 2 inch sperm oil; place the tin on the cork and 
put a piece of cord 1 inch long through the holes, then set the 
cork afloat on tbe oil, and you have a good night lamp; kerosene 
or other low test oils should not be used, 2. If sulphide of lime 
be enclosed in a bottle the figures on the face of a watch may be 
distinguished by its aid. To renew the luminosity of the mass 
place the bottle each day in the sun or in strong daylight, or 
burn a strip of magnesium wire close to the bottle; it will thus 
absorb light, which will again be available at night time. 3. 
Take a stick of phosphorus and put it into a large dry vial, not 
corked, and it will afford a light sufficient to discern any object 
in the room when held near it; the vial should be kept in a cool 

f fiace, where there is no current of air, and it will continue its 
uminous appearance for 12 months. 

Matches, Care Of.— Parlor matches light the most readily, 
and are much more dangerous than the common matches. The 
general stock should be kept in a tin box. For each room where 
matches are used there should be a match safe of some kind; in 
the kitchen and bedroom, or wherever else matches are in fre¬ 
quent use, have the match safe fixed in one place, so that it can 
be found, if need be, in the dark. 

Milk, Sour, To Sweeten.— Milk or cream may be sweetened 
after it has become slightly sour by a small portion of carbonate 
of magnesia; saleratus will also correct the acid, but slightly 
injures the flavor, unless very delicately managed. 





Milk, To Prevent Souring.—1. Put 1 t^spoonful of 
scraped horseradish into each pan. and it will keep sweet for 
several days. 2. Dissolve V 2 thimbleful of California borax in 
hot water; put into the milk and it will keep perfectly sweet. 

Milk, To Test the Richness Of.— Procure any long glass 
vesse i_a cologne bottle or long phial. Take a narrow strip of 
paper, just the length from the neck to the bottom of the phial, 
and mark it off with 100 lines at equal distances, or into 50 
lines and count each as two, and paste upon the phial, so as to 
divide its length into 100 equal parts. Fill it to the highest 
mark with milk fresh from the cow. and allow it to stand in a 
perpendicular position 24 hours. The number of spaces occu¬ 
pied by the cream will give you its exact percentage in the milk 
without any guess work. 

Rubber, To Restore Elasticity of.— Use a simple mix¬ 
ture composed of 1 part of aqua ammonia with 2 parts of water 










































DEPARTMENT IV. 


in which the articles should be immersed until they resume their 
former elasticity, smoothness, and softness, the time required 
varying from a few minutes to an hour. 


Scissors, To Sharpen.— Take a fine file and sharpen each 
blade, being careful to keep the same angle as they had at first; 
file till the rough places are all taken out; put a little oil on the 
edges of the blades, and snap together; then wipe off. 




Stoves, Cracks in. To Mend.— 1. Good wood ashes are to be 
sifted through a fine sieve, to which are to be added the same quan¬ 
tity of clay, finely pulverized, together with a little salt; the 
mixture is to be moistened with water enough to make a paste, 
and the crack in the stove filled with it. 2. An excellent cement 
for iron stoves and furnaces is a paste of soluble glass and bary¬ 
tes, with or without some fine fireclay; or the soluble glass may 
be replaced by a solution of borax, and both these and barytes 
by a mixture of clay and powdered glass. 




Taste of Wood, To Remove.— To prevent this scald the 
vessel well with boiling water, letting the water remain in it 
until cold; then dissolve some pearlash or soda in lukewarm 
water, adding a little lime to it; wash the inside of the vessel 
well with the solution; afterward scald it well with hot water, 
and rinse with cold water before using. 


CD 






To Mend Tinware by the Heat of a Candle.— Take a 
phial about % full of muriatic acid and put into it little bits of 
sheet zinc as long as it dissolves them; then put in a crumb of 
sal ammoniac and fill up with water, and it is ready for use. 
Then, with the cork of the phial, wet the place to be mended 
with the preparation; then put a piece of zinc over the hole and 
hold a lighted candle or spirit lamp under the place, which melts 
the solder on the tin, and causes the zinc to adhere without fur¬ 
ther trouble. Wet the zinc also with the solution; or a little 
solder may be put on instead of the zinc or with the zinc. 


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To Mend Iron.— Mix finely some sifted lime with the white 
of an egg till a thin sort of paste is formed, then add some iron 
filings. Apply this to the fracture and the vessel will be found 
nearly as sound as ever. 



Water, To Aseertain if Hard or Soft.— 1. Dissolve V 3 

ounce of good white soap in 1 pint of rain water; let it cool and 
settle; mix about 1 ounce of this with 1 pint ol the water to be 
tested and let stand a few minutes; if the water is soft, it will 
remain clear; if hard, it will turn opalescent. 2. Procure a 
small quantity of soap dissolved in alcohol; Jet a few drops of it 
fall into a glass of water to be tried; if the water becomes 
milky, it is hard, but if little or no milkiness results, the water 
may be said to be soft. 


•Window Glass, To Prevent Frosting;.— Apply a very 
thin coat of glycerine on both sides of the glass; this will pre> 
vent the formation of moisture. 




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Traw 



























































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Burning 1 Fluid.— Four quarts alcohol, 1 pint spirits of tur¬ 
pentine: mix well. It is the best in use. 

Centennial Illuminating Oil.—Recipe for making 1 gal¬ 
lon: Take % gallon benzine or crude petroleum, add to it % 
ounce gum camphor. y 2 ounce alcohol, % pint common salt. y 2 
ounce oil of sassafras; stir and mix it well for about 5 minutes; 
let it stand for 24 hours and it is ready for use. It is better to 
buy the benzine from Pittsburg. Pa., as the druggists usually 
charge 2 or 3 times the wholesale price. 

I. X. L. Baking- Powder.— Taite 1 pound tartaric acid in 
crystals. 1*4 pounds bicarbonate of soda, and 1 % pounds potato 
starch; each must be powdered separately, well dried by a slow 
heat, well mixed through a sieve; pack hard in tinfoil, tin, or pa¬ 
per glazed on the outside. The tartaric acid and bicarbonate of 
soda can, of course, be bought cheaper of wholesale druggists 
than you can make them, unless you are doing things on a targe 
scale, but potato starch any one can make. It is only necessary 
to peel the potatoes, and to grate them up fine into vessels of 
water, to let them settle, pour off the water, and make the set¬ 
tlings into balls, and to dry them. With these directions anyone 
can make as good baking powder as is sold anywhere. If he 
wants to make it very cheap he can take cream of tartar and 
common washing (carbonate) soda instead of the articles named 
in the recipe, but this would be advisable only where customers 
insist on excessively low prices in preference to the quality of 
the goods. 

Wash for Carpets.— Mix together 30 cents’ worth of ground 
soap-tree bark (which can be purchased at any drug store), 5 cents’ 
worth of ammonia, 1 cup vinegar, 1)4 pails of water; boil this 
mixture one hour in a boiler, and use it on the carpet with a 
sponge. 

Indestructible Lamp Wicks.— Steep common wicks in a 
concentrated aqueous solution of tungstate of soda, and then dr;* 
thoroughly in an oven. 

Wax Stains on Cloth.— An old-fashioned way of removing 
wax stains from cloth is the following: Lay over the stains 2 
thicknesses of blotting paper and apply for a moment the press¬ 
ure of a moderately hot iron. The wax becoming melted will be 
absorbed by the two layers of paper, and the stains will be in¬ 
stantaneously and entirely removed. 

Holes in Stockings.— To mend large holes in stockings or 
merino underwear, tack a piece of net over the rent and darn 
through it. 

Fluid Extracts for Sarsaparilla Syrnps.— Sarsaparilla 


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Xj —0 


































































DEPARTMENT IV. 


126 



To Cleanse Bottles.— Make a lye by boiling equal quantities 
of soda and quicklime. When cold, put this in the bottles with 
some pebbles, and shake well. Set the bottles to dram thoiough- 
ly, then warm them, and blow inside with a pair of bellows to 
absorb all moisture. 


To Clean Wine Decanters.— Use a little pearl ash or soda 
and some cinders and water; rinse them out with water. 



To Clean China.— Use a little of Fuller’s earth, and soda 
or pearl ash with water. 

To Frost Window Panes.— Take epsom salts and dissolve 
in beer. Apply with a brush and you have the finest window 
frosting known. 

To Keen Salt I>ry.— To keep salt so it can be easiiy shaken 
from the cruet, mix 1 teaspoonful of corn starch with each cup 
of salt. This will prove effectual. 



Preserving Wood .- 1 There have been a number of processes 
patented for preserving wood. One of them, very generally 
used, consists in immersing the timber in a bath of corrosive 
sublimate. Another process consists in first filling the pores 
with a solution of chloride of calcium under pressure, and next 
forcing in a solution of sulphate of iron, by which an insoluble 
sulphate of lime is formed in the body of the wood, which is 
thus reuaei’ed nearly as hard as stone. Wood prepared in this 
way is now very largely used for railroad ties. Another process 
consists in impregnating the wood with a solution of chloride 
of zinc. Yet another way is to thoroughly impregnate the tim¬ 
ber with oil of tar containing creasote and a'crude solution of 
acetate of iron. The process consists in putting the wood in a 
cylindrical vessel, connected with a powerful air pump. The air 














































THE HOUSEHOLD. 


127 


is withdrawn, and the liquid subjected to pressure, so that as 
much of it as possible is forced into the pores of the wood. The 
processes above given not only season the timber so that it is not 
subject to dry rot, but also keep it from being iujured by the 
weather, or being attacked by insects or worms. 

Fireproof Wood.— Soak 27.5 parts by weight of sulphate of 
ziuc, 11 of potash, 22 of alum and 11 of manganic oxide in luke¬ 
warm water in an iron boiler, and gradually add 11 parts by 
weight of 60 per cent sulphuric acid. The wood to be prepared 
is placed upon an iron grating in an apparatus of suitable size, 
the separate pieces being placed at least an inch ;apart. The 
liquid is then poured into the apparatus, and the wood allowed 
to remain completely covered for three hours, and is then air- 
dried. 

To Preserve Wooden Posts.— The ends of the thoroughly 
dry posts which are to be put in the ground are placed in lime 
water 1.18 to 1.57 inches deep, and after taking out and drying, 
painted with diluted sulphuric acid. The posts thus treated be¬ 
come hard as stone and are far more durable than when carbon¬ 
ized or coated with tar. 

To Prevent Warping of Wood and of wooden objects in 
damp air, saturate them with copaiba balsam. Articles already 
warped on one side can be straightened by saturating the other 
side with the balsam. 

To Marble Boobs or Paper.— Marbling of books or paper 
is performed thus: Dissolve 4 ounces of gum arabic in 2 quarts 
of fair water, then provide several colors' mixed with water in 
pots or shells, and with pencils peculiar to each color; sprinkle 
them by way of intermixture upon the gum water, which must 
be put into a trough or some broad vessel; then with a stick eurl 
them or draw them out in streaks to as much variety as may be 
done. Having done this, hold your book or books close together 
and only dip the edges in, on the top of the water and colors, 
very lightly; which done, take them off and the plain impression 
of the colors in the mixture will be upon the leaves; doing as 
well the ends as the front of the book in like manner, and after¬ 
ward glazing the colors. 

To Make Paper into Parchment.— To produce this 
transformation take unsized paper and plunge it into a solution 
of 2 parts concentrated sulphuric acid combined with 1 part wa¬ 
ter; withdraw it immediatelv and wash it in clean water, and 
the change is complete. It is now fit for writing, for the acid 
supplies the want of size, and it becomes so strong that a strip 2 
or 3 inches wide will bear from 60 to 80 pounds weight, while a 
like strip of parchment will bear only about 25 pounds. 

How to Keep Eggs Fresh.— The great secret in keeping 
eggs consists in entirely excluding ,the air from the interior. 
The lining next to the shell is, when in its natural state, imper¬ 
vious to air, and the albumen is calculated to sustain it, but 
dampness and heat will cause decay, and if the egg is allowed 




















































































128 


DEPARTMENT IV. 


to lie in one position, especially on one side, the yolk sinks 
Through the albumen and settles upon the lining, and, not pos¬ 
sessing proper qualities for preserving the skin in a healthy con¬ 
dition. it dries, and air penetrates and begins the work of de¬ 
struction. Where eggs are set upon their small ends, the yolk 
is much less liable to reach the lining of the shell. Where eggs 
are packed in barrel, keg, or bucket it is a good plan to turn the 
whole quantity onto a different side once in a while. 

To Print a Picture from tlie Print Itself. —The page 

or picture is soaked in a solution, first of potassa and then of 
tartaric acid. This produces a perfect diffusion of crystals of bi¬ 
tartrate of potassa through the texture of the unprinted part of 
the paper. As this salt resists oil, the ink roller may now be 
passed over the surface, without transferring any part of its con¬ 
tents except to the printed part. 

Premium Paint, Without Oil or Toad. —Slack stone 
lime with boiling water in a tub or barrel to keep in the steam; 
then pass 6 quarts through a fine sieve. Now to this quantity 
add 1 quart of coarse salt and 1 gallon of water; boil the mix¬ 
ture and skim it clear. To every 5 gallons of this skimmed mix¬ 
ture add 1 pound alum, V% pound copperas, and by slow degrees 
% pound potash and 4 quarts sifted ashes or fine sand; add any 
coloring desired. A more durable paint was never made. 

To Prevent Mold.— A small quantity of carbolic acid added 
to paste, mucilage, or ink will prevent mold. An ounce of the 
acid to a gallon of whitewash will keep cellars and dairies 
from the disagreeable odor which often taints milk and meat 
kept in such places. 

Waterproofing' for Clothing.— Boiled oil 15 pounds, bees¬ 
wax 1 pound, ground litharge 13 pounds: mix and apply with a 
brush to the article, previously stretching against a wall or on a 
cable, well washing and drying each article before applying the 
composition. 

How to Thaw Out a Water Pipe.— Water pipes usually 
freeze up when exposed, for inside the walls, where they cannot 
be reached, they are or should be packed to prevent freezing. 
To thaw out a frozen pipe bundle a newspaper into a torch, light 
it, and pass it along the pipe slowly. The ice will yield to this 
much quicker than to hot water or wrappings of hot cloths, as is 
the common practice. 

Whitewash that Will Not Hub Off. —Mix up V 2 pailful of 

lime and water, ready to put on the wall; then take pint of 
flour, mix it up with water, then pour on it the boiling water, a 
sufficient quantity to thicken it; then pour it while not into the 
whitewash, stir ail well together, and it is ready for use. 1 

Imitation Frost Crystals.— A very pretty winter orna¬ 
ment for a parlor table, or to set on the showcase in the store, 
can be prepared as follows: Dissolve 456 grains of nitrate of 
lead in 6 fluid ounces of water, If the solution is turbid, Alter 









































* 7 # 










f 



through paper. Place the solution in a vessel on the table where 
it is intended to remain, and drop into it 200 grains of sal am¬ 
moniac in long fibrous crystals. Small crystals of chloride of 
lead form and ascend through the denser liquid, presenting the 
appearance of an ascending snow storm. When the lead is all 
precipitated the crystals of chloride of lead begin to descend as 
a genuine miniature snow storm, forming grotesque masses re¬ 
sembling a winter’s landscape. If the vessel containing the 
crystals is not disturbed it often preserves its beauty for a 
week or two. 

To Straighten Round Shoulders.— A stooping figure and 
a halting gait, accompanied by the unavoidable weakness of 
lungs incidental to a narrow chest, may be entirely cured by a 
very simple and easily-performed exercise of raising one’s self 
upon the toes leisurely in a perpendicular position several times 
daily. To take this exercise properly one must take a perfectly 
upright position, with the heels together and the toes at an angle 
of forty-five degrees. Then drop the arms lifelessly by the sides, 
animating and raising the chest to Its full capacity muscularity, 
the chin well drawn in, and the crown of the head feeling as if 
attached to a string suspended from the ceiling above Slowly 
rise upon the balls of both feet to the greatest possible height, 
thereby exercising all the muscles of the legs and body; come 
again into standing position without swaying the body back¬ 
ward out of the perfect line. Repeat this same exercise, first on 
one foot, then on the other. It is wonderful what a straighten¬ 
ing-out power this exercise has upon round shoulders and 
crooked backs, and one will be surprised to note how soon the 
lungs begin to show the effect of such expansive development. 

Black Tracing Paper.— Rub smooth a little lampblack 
and mix with sweet oil. Paint over the paper, and dab it dry 
with a fine piece of linen. Put this under the pattern, and upon 
the material to which you wish the pattern transferred, and go 
over the lines with a hard point of wood or metal. If you wish 
it, the transferred lines may be fixed by using a pen with a kind 
of ink composed of a little stoneblue well mixed with water in a 
cup, with a small piece of sugar added to it. 

To Make Cloth Waterproof.— There have been various 
devices for rendering cloth waterproof without the use of India 
rubber. The most successful of these, no doubt, is the Sten- 
house patent. This consists of the application of paraffine com¬ 
bined with drying oil. Paraffine was first used alone, but it was 
found to harden and break off from the cloth after a time. When 
drying oil was added, however, even in a very small quantity, it 
was found that the two substances, by the absorption of oxygen, 
became converted into a tenacious substance very like resin. To 
apply this the paraffine is melted with drying oil. and then cast 
into blocks. The composition can then be applied to fabrics by 
rubbing them over with a block of it, either cold or gently 
warmed. Or the melted mixture may be applied with a brush 
and the cloth then passed through hot rollers in order to cover 














































































iflUA) 

HJfHn 


IM 


130 


DEPARTMENT IV 


its entire substance perfectly. This application makes cloth 
very repellant to water, though still pervious to air. 

Preservation of Ropes.— Dip the dry ropes into a bath 
containing 20 grains of sulphate of copper per quart of water, 
and after allowing them to lie in soak in this solution for four 
days, dry them. The ropes will thus have absorbed a certain 
quantity of sulphate of copper, which will preserve them alike 
from rot and from the attacks of animal parasites. The copper 
salt may be fixed in the fiber by a coating of tar or by soapy 
water. In tarring the rope it is said to be better to pass it 
through a bath of boiled tar, hot drawing it through a thimble 
to press back the excess of tar, and suspending it afterward on a 
staging to dry and harden. According to another process the 
rope is soaked in a solution of 100 grains of soap per Quart of 
water; the copper soap thus formed in the fiber of the rope 
preserves it from rot even better than the tar, which acts me¬ 
chanically to imprison the sulphate of copper which is the real 
preservative. 

Protecting 1 Read Water Pipes.— To protect lead water 
pipes from the action of water, which often affects them chem¬ 
ically, partially dissolving them, and injuring the pipes, as well 
as poisoning the water, fill the pipes with a warm and concen¬ 
trated solution of sulphite of potassium or sodium; leave the 
solution in contact with the lead for about 15 minutes and then 
blow it out. This coats the inside of the pipes with sulphide of 
lead, which is absolutely insoluble, and cannot be acted upon by 
water at all. •. 

Reg- Ulcers.— Good results in the treatment of leg ulcers 
can be obtained by painting them with lead carbonate and lin¬ 
seed oil. in the following proportion; Pure white lead, ground 
in oil, 10 drams, raw linseed oil 4 drams, mix well and label. 
Paint the ulcer once or twice a day, after washing it with warm 
water. Dry well before painting. The best thing to apply the 
remedy with is a camel’s-hair brush. Lead carbonate is a seda¬ 
tive, astringent and possesses disinfectant properties. 

Court Plaster.— The preparation of court plaster is very 
simple; the basis of the first stratum is isinglass. Bruise a suf¬ 
ficient quantity of isinglass, and let it soak for 24 hours in a lit¬ 
tle warm water; expose it to heat over the fire, to dissipate the 
greater part of the water, and supply its place by proof spirits 
of wine, which will combine with the isinglass. 

To Casebarden Iron.— If you desire to harden to consider¬ 
able depth put the article into a crucible with cyanide of pot¬ 
ash, cover over and heat altogether, then plunge into the water. 
This process will harden perfectly to the depth of two or three 
inches. 

To Remove Rust from Iron or Steel.—For cleaning 

purposes, etc., kerosene oil or benzine are probably the best 
things known. When articles have become pitted by' rust, how¬ 
ever, these can, of course, only be removed by mechanical means. 


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f c f 






















































THE HOUSEHOLD. 


131 


such as scouring with flue powder, or flour of emery and oil. or 
with very tine emery paper. To prevent steel from rusting rub 
it with a mixture of lime and oil. or with mercurial ointment, 
either of which will be found valuable 

To Preserve Steel Articles from Rust.— Paint the arti¬ 
cles over with white beeswax dissolved in benzole; the benzole 
rapidly evaporates, leaving the steel covered with a thin coating 
of the wax. As the solution is very volatile it should be kept in 
a bottle tightly corked. 

To Melt Steel as Easily as Eead.— This apparent impos¬ 
sibility is easily performed by heating the bar of iron or steel red 
hot and then touching it with a roll of brimstone, when the metal 
will drop like water. 

To Mend Ironware.— Sulphur 2 parts, fine black lead 1 
part: put the sulphur in an ii’on pan over a fire until it melts; 
then add the lead; stir well; then pour out; when cool break into 
small pieces. A sufficient quantity of this compound being placed 
upon the crack of the ware to be mended, can be soldered by an 
iron. 

To Prevent Iron from Rusting'. —Warm it; then rub 
with white wax; put it again to the fire until the wax has per¬ 
vaded the entire surface; or immerse tools or bright work in 
boiled linseed oil and allow it to dry upon them. 

To Joint Lead Pipes.— Widen out the end of one pipe with 
a taper wood drift and scrape it clean inside; scrape the end of 
the other pipe outside a little tapered and insert it in the former; 
then solder it with common lead solder, as before described; or 
if required to be strong, rub a little tallow over and cover the 
joint with a ball of melted lead, holding a cloth (2 or 3 plies of 
greased bed tick) on the under side and smoothing over with it 
and the plumber’s iron. 

Silver Imitations.— Copper 1 pound, tin % ounce; melt. 
This composition will roll and ring very near to silver. Brit- 
tania Metal: Copper 1 pound, tin 1 pound, regulus of antimony 
2 pounds; melt together with or without a little bismnth. Gen¬ 
uine German Silver; Iron 2)4 parts, nickel 31)4 parts, zinc 25)4 
parts, copper 40)4 parts; melt. Fine White German Silver: 
Iron 1 part, nickel 10 parts, zinc 10 parts, copper 20 parts; 
melt. 

Artificial Gold.— 1 This is a new metallic alloy which is now 
very extensively used in France as a substitute for gold. Pure 
copper 100 parts, zinc, or preferably tin, 17 parts, magnesia 6 
parts, sal ammoniac 3-6 parts, quicklime % parts, tartar of com¬ 
merce 9 parts; are mixed as follows: The copper is first melted 
and the magnesia, sal ammoniac, lime and tartar are then added 
separately and by degrees, in the form of a powder. The whole 
is now briskly stirred for about half an hour, so as to mix thor¬ 
oughly; and then the zinc is added in small grains by throwing 
It on the surface and stirring until it is entirely fused; the cruci- 


















































132 DEPARTMENT IV. 

ble is then covered, and the fusion maintained for about 85 min¬ 
utes. The surface is then skimmed, and the alloy is ready for 
casting. It has a fine grain, is malleable, and takes a splendid 
polish. It does not corrode readily, and, for many purposes, is 
an excellent substitute for gold. When tarnished its brilliancy 
can be restored by a little acidulated water. If tin be employed 
instead of zinc; the alioy will be more brilliant. It is very 
much used in France, and must ultimately attain equal popular¬ 
ity here. ., 

Fictitious Gold.— Copper 16 parts, piantinum 7 parts, zinc 
1 part; fused together. This alloy resembles gold of 16 carats 
fine or %, and will resist the action of nitric acid, unless very 
concentrated and boiling. 
































































DEPARTMENT V. 


ALL TRADES. 


THE CONFECTIONER AND BAKER. 

The stages through which sugar passes in the process of 
candy-making are as follows: It is first boiled until it becomes 
a transparent syrup; then, by further boiling, it reaches a con¬ 
dition that, when ‘ touched” between the thumb and forefinger, 
it draws out into a fine thread, which crystalizes and breaks: 
this is the “thread” stage. If boiled again, it will draw into a 
larger string, and. if blown, small bubbles or bladders will ap¬ 
pear; this is called the “blown,” or boiled “to the blow.” Con¬ 
tinued boiling produces the “feathered” stage, then the “cara¬ 
mel” and finally the “crackled,” or true candy state. The fire 
must be gentle—not too fierce—and care must be taken to test 
frequently according to the kind of candy desired to make. Glu¬ 
cose is used in the manuf acture of many candies. 

Artificial Maple Syrup.— Dark C sugar (driest) 2 pounds, 
water 34 pint, butter 2 ounces, melted; flavor with maple flavor; 
boil to a ball, cream in the pan. Pour before it gets too stiff. 

Almond Bars.— Same as peanut, only add the almond nuts 
in time to allow them to roast a little in the boiling sugar. One- 
fourth of a pint of New Orleans syrup added to the boiling sugar 
improves the flavor and color. 

A Number One Chocolate Drop.— Molding cream, gran¬ 
ulated sugar 20 pounds, water 3 quarts; boiled to a thread, set 
off. add 3 pounds of glucose dissolved; pour, let get cold. Cream, 
melt, add pinch of glucose to 1 pint simple syrup; 4 tablespoons 
of glycerine; stir; mold. 

Butter Creams,— White sugar 1)4 pounds, C sugar )4 pound, 
glucose M pound, molasses y pint, water 1)4 pints; boil to the 
hard snap, add 6 ounces of butter, set off until it melts; set on 
and let boil, to well mix the butter; pour out. Have 1 pound of 
hard cream dough thoroughly warmed, just so you can handle 

133 




(8 




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134 


DEPARTMENT V. 



it. When the batch is cold enough on the stove to handle, place 
the warm cream lengthwise on the center of it and completely 
wrap the cream up in it. Place this on your table before your 
heater, spin out in long strips, have some one to mark them 
heavy or good. When cold, break where marked. 

Boston Chips. —White sugar 3 pounds, cream of tartar Vt 
pipe, water 1*4 pints; boil with a lid over it to the hai’d snap; 
pour; pull this only half as much as any other candy, for too 
much pulling takes out all the gloss when done; flavor on the 
hook; wear your gloves, place it before your heater on the table, 
flatten out and spin out into thin ribbons, break off and curl 
them up in little piles. Strawberry chips can be made the same 
way, adding a pinch of cochineal paste. 

• Butter-Scotch.— C sugar 3 pounds, water 1 M pints; cream 
of tartar 1 full pipe dissolved in 1 cup of cider vinegar, molasses 
V 2 , pint, butter 8 ounces, (no flavor). Add all except the vinegar, 
cream of tartar aud butter. Boil to medium ball, then add the 
cream of tartar in the vinegar and butter; stir all the time care¬ 
fully; boil to light snap. 

Cheap Chocolates.— Quick work. Make a batch of the 
above number one. Exactly the same process. After the glu¬ 
cose is dissolved in the batch do not pour out, but add 5 pounds 
of the hard factory cream in pieces. Stir, flavor, melt. Set this 
kettle in a kettle of boiling water, have a boy to stir and watch 
it; do not allow it to get so thin as to simmer, only thin enough 
to run into your starch prints. This cream saves time and 
labor. 

* Common Twist Candy.— Boil 3 pounds of common sugar 
and 1 pint of water over a slow fire for half an hour without 
skimming. When boiled enough take it off, rub your hands over 
with butter; take that which is a little cooled and pull it as you 
would molasses candy, until it is white; then twist or braid it 
































































mnnr 



ALL TRADES. 


135 


til dissolved: dip balls of cream in this chocolate, drop on wax 
paper to cool, and you have fine han,d-made chocolate drops. 

Cold Sugar Icing— For dipping cream drops. Confectioner’s 
sugar with the white of eggs and a small amount of dissolved 
gum arabic in water; make this into a batter. If thick the 
drops will be rough; if thin, the drops will be smooth. 

Cocoanut Cream Ice.— Two pounds granulated sugar, % 
pint water, boil to a light crack; set off, add 4 ounces glucose 
(or the amount of cream of tartar you can hold on the point of a 
penknife) set back on the fire, just let come to a boil to dissolve 
the glucose; set off again, add immediately x /i ounce shaved 
paraffine, 6 ounces cream dough cut up fine, 1 grated cocoanut* 
Stir all until it creams, pour out into a frame on brown paper 
dusted with flour, mark and cut with a knife when cold. 

Crystal!zed Popcorn.— Put into an iron kettle 1 table¬ 
spoonful of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of water and 1 teacupful of 
white sugar; boil until ready to candy, then throw in 3 quarts 
of nicely popped corn, stir briskly until the candy is evenly dis¬ 
tributed over the corn. Care should be taken not to have too 
hot a fire, or the corn will be scorched while crystalizing. Nuts 
of any kind may be treated in the same way. 

Candy Penny Popcorn Pieces.— Cook a batch of glucose 
to a light snap, flavor well pour thin. While hot, place your pop¬ 
corn sheet hard down on the candy, mark deep, cut and wrap. I 
have put boys on this work in the shop at $5 a week pay, and 
knew them to clear for the proprietor from $5 to $20 daily for 
several months; one to pop corn, one to cook syrup, one to press 
and one to cut them; girls to wrap and box. 

Pate and Fig Creams.— Seed dates, cut a piece out of the 
end V shape, insert a white or pink cream ball, press it in, and 
stick a clove in the end, it looks liite a pear. Cut figs in strips, 
place the seedy side around a piece of cream dough. The hand¬ 
made cream can be made in various varieties of candies to suit 
your fancy. 

Factory Cream Pongli.— This recipe is worth $25 to any 
candy maker. When the cream is first done it appears flaky and 
coarse, but the next morning it is fine, and the longer it sets the 
better it is. When made up it never gets stale or hard. Never 
use flour to roll out cream when you can get the XXX lozenge 
sugar. Forty pounds granulated sugar, 5 quarts water; boil to 
a stiff ball: setoff; add quickly 12 pounds glucose; do not stir; 
set on the fire, let it come to a boil until you see even the scum 
boiled in (do not allow the glucose to boil in the sugar! Pour 
out, wait only till you can lay the back of your hand on the top 
of the batch. Never let it get colder, it is better to cream while 
hot than cold like other goods. Cream it with 2 garden hoes or 
cream scrapers. Add while creaming pint scant measure of 
glycerine; no need of kneading it: scrape into your tub for use. 
If AJ sugar is used the cream is sticky. 







Ill 





















































136 


DEPARTMENT V. 


French Creams.— Take 3 cupsful of granulated sugar, add 
to it l A cupful milk; set upon the stove and bring slowly to a boil 
and boil for 5 minutes; take off the fire and set in a pa'n of cold 
water; stir rapidly until it creams; shape into balls with the 
hands and nuts on top of some of the creams, or it can be ar¬ 
ranged in layers and figs or dates placed between; then cut into 
squares. Fine chocolate creams can be made of this mixture by 
dipping the balls into melted chocolate, leaving until cold upon 
buttered white paper. 

French Creams IVo. 2. —Break the white of an egg into a 
glass and add an equal quantity of milk or water; then stir in 
enough XXXX confectioners’ sugar to make sufficiently stiff to 
roll into shape; about 1 y 2 pounds will be needed; use different 
flavorings to make a variety. 

Fine Peppermint Lozenges. —Best powdered white su¬ 
gar 7 pounds, pure starch 1 pound, oil of peppermint to flavor; 
mix with mucilage. 

Fig Candy.— Take 1 pound sugar and 1 pint water; set over 
a slow fire; when done add a few drops of vinegar and a lump of 
butter, and pour into pans in which figs are laid. 

Flavorings.— To any kind of oil take 8 times in bulk the 
amount of alcohol; stir; let set in a warm place a short time; 
can be used if needed immediately. 

Home-Made Maple Sugar.— To 2 pounds of maple (bricks 
not cakes) add 1 pint water. ^ pipe cream of tartar (or 4 ounces 
glucose is best); boil slow to a smooth degree, cool, skim: white 
sugar can be used. To keep molasses from sdgaring in the barrel 
when making the molasses, to every barrel add 20 ponnds of 
glucose; stir it in. To lighten the color and aid the flavor of 
rank, dai’k molasses, do the same as above. To allow molasses 
to cool slowly makes it dark; it should be stirred lively until 
cool. Also to improve sour, rank molasses, take the molasses, 
for instance, 10 gallons; take 5 pounds dry C sugar, 5 pounds of 
glucose, water 2 quarts; boil the sugar and glucose until thor¬ 
oughly dissolved; add the molasses; boil 5 minutes. You can 
make fine syrup this way. 

lfow to Ornament Cakes. —You need 4 cups of confec¬ 
tioners’ finest sugar, whites of 2 eggs; beat the eggs just a little, 
add the sugar gradually; juice 1 lemon; beat this stiff until the 
sugar will bend when you hold the paddle up. Now take a sheet 
of "thick writing paper, fold it into a funnel shape, hold it in your 
left hand, fill this with the icing prepared as above, about % 
full, fold in the top and place both thumbs on it, cut off a little 
of the small end of the funnel to allow the icing to come out 
when you press with your thumbs. Next with a knife cover 
your cake with icing sugar smoothly; if it sticks to the knife 
wet it a little. Let dry half hour; then with a lead pencil make 
leaves or designs, and with your paper funnel ice your pencil de¬ 
signs. Colored icing looks well. 




































































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Imitation Haml-Ma«le Chocolate.— Take a suitable hand 
made; make your plaster paris prints; take a quantity of the 
above cream, melt in a bath; flavor and mold; dip. 

Italian Cream Operas.— Melt 4 ounces of butter with 4 
ounces plain chocolate; take a batch of the opera cream; when 
cooked add the above, stir it in the kettle until it creams, then 
pan and work it as you do the operas. 

Jap Cocoanut.— One ponnd XXX confectioners’ sugar damp¬ 
ened a little, iy z pounds glucose; stir when cooked to a soft ball; 
add ail the grated cocoanut it will stick together; boil; stir to 
the lightest crack. 

Kisses.— Two cupsful powdered sugar, the whites of 3 eggs, 2 
cupsful cocoanut, 2 teaspoonsful baking powder; mix all to¬ 
gether; drop upon buttered paper and bake until slightly brown 
in a brisk oven. 

Molasses Candy.— 1. Take 4 cupsful sugar. 2 cupsful molas¬ 
ses, and y z cupful vinegar; boil until it crisps in cold water, then 
stir in 1 tablespoonful baking soda; pour into well buttered 
dishes; leave until sufficiently cool; then pull. 2. Boil molas¬ 
ses over a moderately hot fire, stirring constantly. When you 
think it is done, drop a little on a plate and if it is sufficiently 
boiled it will be hard. Add a small quantity of vinegar to make 
it brittle, and any flavoring ingredient you prefer. Pour in but¬ 
tered tin pans. If nuts are to be added strew them in the pans 
before pouring out the candy. 

Maple Caramels.— Use one-half maple sugar with C sugar. 
No flavor. 

Molasses Pop-Corn Balls.— Always sift your corn after it 
is popped. For home use add butter and lemon flavor to your 
syrup. This is too expensive for retail and factory use, though 
some use lard sparingly. Boil molasses to a stiff ball, wet your 
tub, put in your corn; now with a dipper pour over your candy 
and stir with a paddle through the corn, wet your hands in cold 
water, make your balls and wrap in wax paper, twisting the ends 
close to the balls, 

Molasses Taffy.— New Orleans molasses 1 pint, C sugar 1 y 2 
pounds, water y z pint (no doctor); stir all the time to a good light 
snap; lemon flavor; work as above. 

Nougat.— Almonds and other nuts for nougat should be 
blanched, drained, and skinned some time before they are 
chopped. The nougat is made by melting pounded sugar in a 
copper sugar boiler, put a dessertspoonful of lemon juice to each 
pound, then adding double the weight of sugar in almonds, either 
colored or white, filberts, pistachios, and a little sweet liquor. 
The almonds or nuts should be hot when put into the syrup. For 
lining molds small pieces of the nougat should be pressed in 
with a lemon till the mold is covered, when the nougat should be 
turned out. 

Nut Taffy. —Use the cream candy recipe. Just before the 


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138 DEPARTMENT V. 

candy is done cooking stir in any kind of nut goodies; pour out, 
and when cool enough not to run, form it into a block; cut or 
break it with a hammer. 

Opera Creams.— Two pounds white sugar, % pint cows’ 
cream; boil to a soft ball; setoff; add 2 ounces glucose; set on; 
stir easy until it commence to boil, then pour out; let get % cold 
and stir it until it turns into a cream; then work into it 2 table¬ 
spoons vanilla; line a pan with wax paper, flatten the batch in 
it, and mark it in squares. Set aside 2 hours to harden. 

Pine Tree Tar Cough Candy.— First have 1 t ablespoon- 
ful oil of tar dissolved in 2 tablespoons of alcohol. Cook to a 
hard snap 20 pounds sugar (white), 3 quarts of water, 3 pounds 
glucose; pour out; scatter over it while cooling 20 drops tar, 2 
tablespoons oil of capsicum, 3 tablespoons oil of wintergreen; 
work all well into the batch (do not pull this on the hook). Place 
before your heater on the table and spin it out in large round 
sticks. Have some one to keep them rolling until cold. Cut into 
sticks about 3 y 2 inches long. Wrap them in printed labels if for 
saie. 




Peppermint, Rose, or Hoarhound Candy.— These may 
be made as sour lemon drops. Flavor with essence of rose, or 
peppermint, or finely powdered hoarhound. Pour it out in a 
buttered paper placed in a square tin pan. 

Raisin Candy.— Can be made in the same manner as fig 
creams, substituting stoned raisins for the figs Common mo¬ 
lasses candy is very nice with any kind of nuts added. 

Sour Lemon Drops.— Make a batch of barely squares. Just 
as soon as you pour it on the slab sprinkle over it % ounces dry 
tartaric acid, 2 tablespoons lemon flavor; turn the cold edges in 
to the center of the batch, work it like bread dough; place this 
before a hot stove on your table and cut into little pieces with 
your scissors or run the batch through a drop machine. All the 
goods that you want to spin out or run through a machine or cut 
with the scissors should be kept warm by a sheet-iron stove, on 
a brick foundation, fitted in the tabie evenly, and the candy 
placed in front to keep warm. Should the candy slab, after it is 
greased, act sticky, not allowing the candy to come up freely 
throw a dust of flour over the sticky place after it has been 
greased. 

^Sticlt Candy.— Stick candy is made precisely the same as 
the peppermint (which see), by keeping the batch round, and a 
second person to twist them and keep them rolling until cold 
This can be done only by practice. The sticks are then chopped 
in the desired length by heavy shears. 

Strawberry.— Same, only flavor with strawberry; color with 
liquid coloring lightly. 

Sugar Candy.— Take 2 cupfuls A coffee sugar, % cupful of 
good vinegar, % cupful water; boil without stirring until it 
crisps in cold water. Turn out upon a buttered pla* 4 "'" - 



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5 -^2^ W 

ALL TRADES. 

the desired flavor over it. When sufficiently cool pull until 
white and light, pulling directly from you without twisting. 
Have the hands clean and dry: do not use butter on them. This 
rule is varied by using different flavorings, and makes excellent 
candy by pouring it over nuts or popcorn. 

Popcorn, White or Red.— Sugar and glucose half and 
half, water to melt, and boil as above. Work the same. To make 
600 bricks a day and pop this corn, put a coarse sieve in a box or 
barrel bottom, instead of the natural bottom. Sift your corn. 
Have your popper made with a swinging wire, hanging down 
from the ceiiing over the, furnace to save labor. Have a stout, 
thick, wide board for the floor of your press; make a stout frame 
the width that two bricks will measure in length, as long as 12 
bricks are thick, and have your boards 6 or 8 inches wide. Put 
your frame together; now make a stout lid of 1 inch lumber to 
fit in your frame; have 4 cleats nailed crosswise to make it 
stout, and a 2x4 piece nailed lengthwise across the top of these 
(shorter than the lid is); now for a lever get a hard 2x4, 6 to 8 
feet long; fasten the ends of this lever to the floor, giving it 6 
inches of the rope to play in. Now you are ready: wet your 
flour board and dust it with the flour; do the lid and frame the 
same. To every 30 pounds melted scraps of candy use 2 pounds 
butter (You can't cut the bricks without it). Cook to a hard 
ball. To \ tub of corn pour 3 small dippers of syrup; pour this 
when mixed in your frame on the flour board, put on the lid, 
with the lever press once the center, once each end, and once 
more the center: take out the lid, lift the frame, dump out on 
the table. When % cool, cut lengthwise with a sharp, thin knife, 
then cut your bricks off crosswise. Penny popcorn bricks are 
made the same way. 

To Molte a Candy House.— House for a show window. 
Take any design you fancy, of card board; cut out the windows; 
place this on your candy slab. Now with a lead pencil mark out 
your design, and as many of each piece as you need (it is a good 
idea to make an extra piece so if you break one you can go 
ahead). Now take off the icing sugar and fill your paper funnel 
as if for cake icing, and overiine the pencil marks you made on 
the stone. When done you find you have a frame that will hold 
hot candy. Boil a batch of barley square goods and pour on 
some in a dipper; take this and pour in your icing sugar frame 
or patterns you made on the stone, when half cold, so as not to 
run; run a thin knife under them carefully, lift them 
and lay them in a different place on the stone; when you 
have molded all, cut off the icing sugar that sticks to the candy. 
Tlmn put your candy house together, sides first, and take pieces 
of lemon stick candv, dip them in the hot candy, and stick in the 
bottom and top corners of your house: hold them a few seconds 
to cool, then finish likewise. When done, take your icing sugar 
and funnel paper and on the outside corners of the candy house 
put icing sugar and the windows finish the same. Candies, if 
desired, can be stuck on with the icing sugar, etc. The icing 






raupa jin! 

Q-./.CP. 














































140 


DEPARTMENT Y. 



sugar should be stiff for a nice job, and will hide the corners 
Landy pyramids can be made this way also. 

To Make a Delicious Cocoa out Candy Cake.—Have 

your cake layers cold. Place in your rice steamer grated 
cocoanut and a chunk of hand-made cream the size of vour fist* 
stir until mixed and you can spread it; do not melt it more than 
necessary. This cake will not dry out if made with factory 
cream. I gave this recipe to two London cane bakers, and 
they said it beat any cake recipe they had ever received Put 
your mind to work, and with a little practice you will get un 

here irf this book. WU mvention ’ from the knowledge you derive 

To Work Over Scraps of Candy.— To 30 pounds of scraps 
use 1 gallon of water; stir until it boils; set off, for it wou?d 
never melt any more by boiling; continue stirring until all is 
dissolved. Set aside until cold: skim off the top. This can be 
worked into hoarhound or dark penny goods, popcorn bricks! 

To Cook Over Maple Sugar.- To 60 pounds broken up 
maple, add water (according to the hard or soft grain of the 
sugar) enough to dissoive; stir until melted. If the grain was 
sc ft, add 15 pounds granulated sugar, if the hard grain only add 

good a ban Un Tn°L C ^? ar - B ? n to 244 ^^ees by Ie?Somllvor 

SEt'ESreSi st ™ Po " 

ToShell Cocoanuts.— Take the nut in the left hand with 
the three eyes up; strike from the nut down with your hatchet- 
a knife or spoke shave, cut them into 4 pieces, cover 
T* th wat ' er ' set on the furnace, and let come to a boil. If 
the ar .® sour ’ strain and add fresh cold water quickly so as 
the heat will not darken them, and repeat. If very sour ser ine 

JhrS d SZ C om G n??oid 6m ' Uk “ ,gOUl ° ne piece at a ““.5 

SK 

7 lth white sugar, and milk instead of water. 
Still better, by using cream 1 quart, and when cream cannot he 
had. condensed milk dissolved in milk works fine. All caramels 
&avSfng. fr0m the Same recipe ’ the onl y difference being in the 




































DIRECTIONS FOR FREEZING. 


M 


The essential points in freezing ice cream are to have the ice 
finely crushed, to use the right proportion of coarse rock salt, 
and to beat the mixture thoroughly during the freezing. Salt 
has a great attraction for water and causes the ice to melt, and 
ice. in changing from a solid to a liquid, absorbs heat. The mix¬ 
ture of melted ice and salt is many degrees colder than ice alone. 
The melting ice absorbs heat from the cream, or whatever may 
be placed in the freezer, and reduces the temperature to the 
freezing point. The finer the ice is crushed the quicker it melts, 
and the more the mixture is stirred, the sooner all parts come 
in contact with the cold surface of the can and become chilled. 
For this reason the ice should be crushed until fine and mushy, 
not merely broken into lumps; and also because large pieces 
with sharp edges will dent the can. 

The melted ice and salt should surround the can, and not be 
drawn off as fast as melted. It is evident, therefore, that any 
freezer with an outlet for the water in the bottom, and with 
directions for drawing off the water as soon as the ice is melted, 
is constructed upon erroneous principles. The outlet should be 
just below the top of the can and should always be open, and 
then the water will run out before it can get inside the can. Do 
not draw it off during the process of freezing, unless the tub is so 
full that the ice clogs the outlet. 

Use 1 part salt to 3 or 4 parts ice. Coarse fine salt will do 
the work, but not so satisfactorily as rock salt or Turk’s Island 
salt. A mixture of snow and salt answers when ice cannot be 
obtained. The ice and salt may be mixed before putting them 
into the tub, but many prefer to put them in separately, in alter¬ 
nate layers. See that the can is clean, the bearings, gears and 
socket in the tub are well oiled, and that the can and gear frame 
are properly adjusted, before putting in the cream. Be sure 
that the bail of the tub hangs over the latch end, for if on the 
other side, the crank of the gear frame will interfere with it when 
lifting the tub. Then lift off the gear frame, being careful not to 
pull the beater shaft out of the socket. Turn in the cream, ad¬ 
just the cover and gear frame, fasten the latch, and then pack 
in the ice and salt. 

Put in a layer of ice 3 inches deep (pack it in solidly), then a 
measure or saucerful of salt, sprinkle it evenly on the ice, then 
3 measures of ice and 1 of salt, etc., till the tub is full. When 
only a small quantity of cream is being frozen, it is sufficient 
for the ice to come a few inches above the cream in the can. 
Pack each layer in closely with a wooden paddle and turn the 
crank occasionally while packing. Turn slowly or occasionally 
for the fii'st 10 minutes, then rapidly till you can turn no longer. 
Remove the beater, scrape off the cream from the sides and pack 




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it down closely in tne can. Put a cork in the opening or the 
cover, and lay the gear frame over, to keep the can down in the 
ice. Cover with a piece of old carpeting wet in the salt water. 
If the ice and salt have been well packed, and the cream is to be 
served within an hour and not molded, no more ice will be 
heeded. But if it is to be kept longer, draw off the water and 
add more ice and salt. 

All ice creams are richer, and of better body, flavor, and tex¬ 
ture, if allowed to remain in the ice and salt at least an hour to 
ripen. 

Note.— The recipes for Ice Creams and Water Ices are not ar¬ 
ranged alphabetically, but according to their degree of excel¬ 
lence and superiority. 


Ice Cream (General Recipe).—Two quarts thick cream, 1 
pound A sugar, ii ounce French gelatine, yolks 3 eggs; add 1 
quart of the cream and gelatine, set on the fire; stir; do not let 
boil; melt; set off, add the eggs and sugar stirred up together 
with a little of the cream, stirring all the time; set on, let get 
hot; set off, add the other quart of cream; stir, strain, freeze. 
Break your ice fine; use salt from 1 pint to 1 quart. Flavor after 
it is frozen. ^ 

Philadelphia Ice Cream.— One quart cream, 1 scant cun 
sugar; flavor to taste. This is a name generally applied in this 
country to all ice creams made with pure cream and no eggs. 
There are three ways of making this ice cream. First. Mix the 
sugar and flavoring with the cream, and when the sugar is dis¬ 
solved strain it into the freezer. This is the quickest and easiest 
method; the cream increases in bulk considerably and is of a 
light, snowy texture. 2d. Whip the cream until you have taken 
off a quart of the froth, mix the sugar and flavoring with the un¬ 
whipped cream, strain into the freezer, and when partly frozen 
add the whipped cream and freeze again until stiff. This gives 
a very light delicate texture to the cream. Third. Heat the 
cream in a double boiler until scalding hot, melt the sugar in ir, 
and when cold add the fiavoriug. This is considered by many the 
best method, as the cream has a rich body and flavor, and a pecu¬ 
liarly smooth, velvety appearance. It also prevents the cream 
from turning sour. The cream may be whipped first, and the 
froth removed until you have a pint, then scald the remainder 
of the cream with sugar, and when cold add the whipped cream. 
Thin cream or single cream is rich enough for ice cream, but it 
should be all cream, not thick cream diluted with milk. When 
milk is used with thick cream, eggs or flour should be used to 
thicken the milk, or the milk should be well scalded with the 
cream. 


Ice Cream with Gelatine. —One quart milk, 8 eggs, 1 salt- 
spoon salt, 1 pint cream, 114 cups sugar. box Nelson's gela¬ 
tine, lemon, coffee, wine or any strong flavoring. Soak the gela¬ 
tine in 14 cup of the measure of cold milk: boil the remainder of 
the milk and cream; beat the eggs till creamy, add the sugar and 





















































ALL TRADES. 


143 


^nJt nd ^ eatagain; add the hot milk, then put into thedonhie 
boiler, stii c onst an tJy and cook till it thickens and cdats rvm 
when d] the soaked gelatine, and more sugar if needed and 
nillv, 1 ? dissolved strain it and set away to cool. When cold flavor 

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144 


DEPARTMENT V. 


the cream 01 milk; it gives a rich, spicy flavor; or you may have 
another variety by the addition of 1 tablespoonful of caramel. 

Strawberry Ice Cream.— Sprinkle 2 cups of sugar over 2 
quarts of strawberries; mash them and let them stand V 2 hour 
or until the sugar is dissolved. Meanwhile preuare the ice and 
pack the freezer; turn the berries into a large square of cheese¬ 
cloth which has been placed over a bowl; gather up the edges of 
the cloth, twist them, and squeeze as long as any juice or pulp 
will come; then empty the pulp and seeds left in the cloth into a 
pan and pour on gradually about 1 pint of milk, mix it well with 
the pulp until the pulp is separated from the seeds; squeeze 
again until perfectly dry. There should be nothing left in the 
?loth save a ball of seeds. The pulp will thicken the milk, and it 
is much nicer than the juice alone. Add to this pulpy juice as 
much cream as you may have, from 1 cup to 3 pints, and sugar 
to make it very sweet. The cream should be scalded and cooled. 
^ reeze as usual. This is delicious and a great improvement 
iver that made by simply mashing the fruit, where the presence 
)f the seeds is objectionable. Make other berry ice cream in the 
lame manner. 

Peach Ice Cream.— Pare 2 quarts of ripe white peaches, cut 
them fine and mash quickly with a wooden masher; then add 1 
cup of sugar and a few of the peachstone meats, and keep it 
closely covered until the sugar is dissolved. Make the ice cream 
after either recipe, and when the cream is thoroughly chilled 
strain the peach pulp through coarse cheesecloth and stir it into 
the cream. Freeze as usual. 

Banana Ice Cream.— Peel 6 ripe bananas, split and remove 
the seeds and dark portion in the center; rub the pulp through a 
puree strainer; add to it the juice of 1 lemon, a saltspoonful of 
salt, and sugar to make it quite sweet; add this pulp to either 
recipe for ice cream, and freeze as usual. 

Almond Ice Cream.— Select the best paper-shell almonds; 
remove the shell and put them into boiling water for a minute 
or until the skin can be rubbed off easily; then drain, put them 
in cold water and remove the brown skin; dry them on a towel 
There should be pound of the selected nuts; pound them in a 
mortar with a few drops of rose water and \i cup each of sugar 
and cream, till like a fine paste. Make the Philadelphia ice cream 
with a scant cup of sugar and add to it when well'chilled a few 
drops of bitter almond extract, a teaspoonful of vanilla, and the 
nut paste; mix it thoroughly, freeze again, and when hard let it 
stand 2 hours to ripen. Nut ice creams require a long time to 
freeze and ripen, owing to their oily nature. 

Pistachio lee Cream.— Shell, blanch and pound 4 ounces of 

S istachio nuts, as directed for almonds in the preceding recipe. 

lake the Philadelphia ice cream, and scant the pro¬ 
portion of sugar. Flavor it with a delicate flavor of vanilla 
and almond and add the pistachio paste. Color it a pale green 
with spinach coloring, by mixing the spinach sugar with a little 


( 












































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4 \, j 



ALL TRADES. 


145 


Use enough to give the desired shade, 


of the cream till smooth, 
then freeze as usual. 

Mock Pistachio Ice Cream.— Make the almond ice cream 
as directed, and color it green with the spinach coloring. r lhe 
flavor of the pistachio nuts is similar to the sweet almond, and 
as the real pistachio nuts are expensive, a very good imitation 
may be made in this way. 

Harlequin Ice Cream.— This is a mixture of creams of 
different colors, served together. Sometimes they are molded 
together, either in uniform layers or irregularly, so that when 
turned out and served they have a streaked or mottled effect. 
Chocolate or pine-apple, strawberry, pistachio and vanilla make 
a pleasing variety. 

Moss Ice Cream, Mousse.— This form of a “Frozen Dainty” 
has a frothy, moss-like texture, produced by freezing whipped 
cream without stirring it during the process of freezing. A 
great variety of delicate dishes may be made by varying the 
flavoring and molding the mousse alone, or in sherbet or ice 
cream of a contrasting shade and agreeable flavor. The follow¬ 
ing rules will illustrate the preparation of the cream and the 
manner of freezing: Sweeten and flavor a pint of cream. Use 
vanilla, lemon, caramel, melted chocolate, sherry wine, or mara¬ 
schino. Place the bowl containing the cream in a pan of broken 
ice or snow, and have ready a granite or bright tin pan placed in 
another of broken ice. Put a sieve or puree strainer into th. 
pan. Pack a plain mold or the freezer can, minus the beaters 
in broken ice and salt, that it may become icy cold. Whip the 
cream with a syllabub churn, skim off the froth and put it into 
the strainer. If any liquid part drain through into the pan, pm 
it back into the bowl and whip again; when all is whipped put 
it into the mold or can. Pack it in closely enough to fin all the 
spaces, but be careful not to break up the froth. Cover the 
mold and let it stand 3 or 4 hours. When a fluted or fancy mold 
is used the mousse will turn out better if the mold is first lined 
with ice cream or sherbet frozen just stiff enough to pack in 
smoothly. 

SHERBETS AND WATER ICES. 

These are made with the juice of fruit, water, and sugar. 
When fresh fruit cannot be obtained you may use syrups which 
have been made of fruit juices and sugar, and sealed in air-tight 
bottles: or canned fruits, mashed and sifted, using pulp as well 
as juice; or fruit jellies heated in water until melted. While 
such ices are acceptable in an emergency, they are never equal to 
those made from fresh fruit. 

L<em<m Ice.— Seven lemons, the juice only: juice 3 oranges* 
take 1 pint water, dissolve in V 2 ounce French sheet gelatine; 
then add whites of 2 eggs. 114 pounds A sugar dissolved; add all 
together with 3 pints cold water; freeze as for ice cream. Keen 
machine running briskly until finished. 


0 3&VW04M9') 


a 















































DEPARTMENT V. 


14fT 

Lemon Sherbet with White of Egg. —Two quarts boil¬ 
ing water, 8 lemons, white of 1 egg. 1 quart sugar. Spread part 
of the sugar on a shallow plate or board, and after wiping the 
lemons with a clean damp cloth, roll them in the sugar to extract 
the oil. Then cut in halves^ remove the seeds, and squeeze out 
the juice. Boil all the sugar and water until clear. Remove the 
scum as it rises. Add the lemon juice to the syrup, strain it, and 
pour it gradually into the beaten egg. Then freeze as usual. 

Orange Sherbet.— Made in the same way, using oranges in¬ 
stead of lemons. 

Pineapple Sherbet.— One pint fresh or 1 can grated pine¬ 
apple, 1 pint sugar, 1 pint water, 1 tablespoonful gelatine, 1 
lemon. Pare the pineapple, remove all the eyes, and pick off the 
tender part with a fork, rejecting all the hard core. If still too 
coarse chop a little. Add the sugar, w r ater, lemon juice, and gel¬ 
atine, which should be first soaked in cold water and then dis¬ 
solved in boiling water. Freeze as usual. 

Currant or Cherry Sherbet.— One pint fruit juice, 1 pint 
boiling water, 1 pound sugar. Mash the fruit and strain through 
a strong bag until all the juice is out; boil the sugar and water 5 
minutes, remove the scum, and strain through fine cheesecloth. 
Cool and add the fruit juice. Freeze without stirring much, un 
til mushy, or stir constantly and freeze until hard. 

Strawberry or Blackberry Sherbet.— One quart of ber¬ 
ries or enough to make 1 pint juice, 1 pint sugar, 1 lemon. Mash 
the berries, add the sugar, and after standing till the sugar is 
dissolved, add the water and lemon juice. Press through fine 
cheesecloth and freeze. Vary the sugar as the fruit requires. 
All of these fresh fruits are improved by the addition of the 
lemon. 

Lemon Sherbet.— Four lemons, 1 pint sugar, 1 quart boil¬ 
ing water. Shave off the peel from 2 lemons in thin, waferlike 
parings, being careful to take none of the lighter colored rind be¬ 
low the oil-cells. Put the parings into a bowl, add the boiling 
water and let it stand 10 minutes closely covered. Cut the lem¬ 
ons in halves, remove the seeds, squeeze out the juice and add it 
with the sugar to the water. Add more sugar if needed. When 
cold strain it through a fine strainer into the can and freeze. 

Lemon-Ginger Sherbet.— Cut 4 ounces candied ginger in 
fine pieces and steep it with the lemon, as directed above. 

Lemon Sherbet, with Gelatine.— One tablespoonful gela¬ 
tine, 3Y 2 cups cold water, 6 lemons, y 2 cup boiling water, 1 pint 
sugar. Soak the gelatine in *4 cun cold water 20 minutes. Put 
the sugar and the remaining cold water into a large lip bowl or 
pitcher. Pare the lemons, cut in halves, remove all the seeds, 
and press out the juice with a lemon-squeezer; add it to the 
syrup. Dissolve the soaked gelatine in the boiling water, add it 
to the other mixture. If liked sweeter, add more sugar. When 
the sugar is dissolved strain through a fine wire strainer or 













































ALL TRADES. 




147 

cheesecloth, turn Into the freezer and freeze as directed. Sher¬ 
bet made in this way has none of the volatile lemon oil. which to 
a delicate stomach often proves indigestible. 

Fruit, Cream.— One-half can apricots, 3 bananas, 3 oranges, 3 
lemons, 3 cups sugar, 3 cups water. Put a puree strainer or 
sieve over a large granite pan or bowl, turn in the apricots and 
rub all but the skin through. Peel the bananas, remove the 
seeds and dark portions and sift the pulp. Pour the water in 
gradually to help the pulp go through the strainer Squeeze the 
oranges and lemons and strain through into the fruit pulp. Add 
the sugar, and when dissolved, freeze as usual. From 1 cup to 1 
Pint of cream may be mixed with the fruit just before freezing, 
but it is delicious without it, as the fruit pulp gives body to the 
frozen mixture. 2. Prepare 1 pint of any ripe, firm fruit or 
canned fruit, drained, such as peaches, apricots, cherries, etc. 
Rub it through a puree strainer, and sweeten to taste; then stir 
in quickly 1 quart whipped cream. Freeze as usual. 

Mixed Ices or Macedoines.— One cup currant and 1 cup 
raspberry juice: or 1 cup orange, 1 cup pineapple, and cup of 
lemon; or 1 cup grape and 1 cup plum; or 1 cup strawberry, 1 
cup cherry, and 1 cup currant. Use as much water as fruit juice, 
and sugar to make the mixture quite sweet. Freeze as usual. 

. Frozen Frui ts.— Ripe fruit sweetened and thoroughly chilled 
is an acceptable substitute for sherbets or ice cream, and in hob 
weather is very refreshing at the beginning of the morning meal. 
The prepared fruit is simply put in the freezer can minus the 
beaters: the can is surrounded with ice and salt, and left with¬ 
out stirring until the fruit is chilled. It usually takes about an 
hour. 

Berries of all kinds should be hulled or stemmed, picked over, 
and sprinkled with fine sugar. 

Bananas should be peeled, sliced thinly, and sprinkled with 
sugar and lemon juice. A speck of salt and cinnamon mixed 
with the sugar is a great improvement. 

Orange Pctlp prepared as directed in recipe for orange or 
lemon sherbet, may be used in place of the lemon juice with 
the bananas; or may be sweetened and chilled by itself. 

Pineapples should have the outer rind and eyes removed and 
the soft part cut in small cubes and sweetened to taste. 

Peaches and ripe yellow pears should be pared and cut in 
halves, the cores or stones removed, and sprinkled with sugar. 
A little lemon juice improves the pears. 

Watermelon and Canteloupe. Take out the melon pulp in 
small, uniform pieces, and sprinkle slightly with salt and sugar. 

Tomatoes.—P eel, cut in ^ inch slices and sprinkle with salt 
and sugar. 

Frozen Beverages.— Coffee. Prepare 2 quarts of strong 
clear coffee, and sweeten to taste. When cold put it in freezer 
and turn the crank untii it is like soft mush. 
























































148 


DEPARTMENT V. 


Tea.— Prepare 1 quart of tea, sweeten to taste, and when cool 
add a little lemon juice. Freeze until mushy. 

Eggnogg.— Beat 2 eggs until light and creamy, add 2 table- 
spoonsful sugar and beat again; add 2 tablespoonsful of wine or 
brandy and 1 cup cream or milk. Put in the freezer and turn 
the crank until half frozen. 


SYRUPS AND FLAVORS. 

Artificial Honey.— Take 8 pounds of white sugar, add 2 
'Marts water; boil 4 minutes, then add 1 pound bee’s honey; 
strain while hot. Flavor with a drop of the oil of peppermint 
and a drop of the oil of rose. 

Acid Fruit.— The juice of any acid fruit can be made into sy¬ 
rups by using 1 pound white sugar to 1 pint of juice, and adding 
6ome peel; boil 10 minutes, strain, and cork. 

Ambrosia.— 1 . A mixture of equal parts of vanilla and straw¬ 
berry syrup. 2. Raspberry syrup 2 pints, vanilla syrup 2 pints, 
aock wine 3 ounces. 

Apple.—Boil in clarified syrup an equal quantity of fruit cut 
in small squares, but not washed or broken. The syrup extracts 
the flavor and may be poured off after standing 24 hours; the 
apples can be used for other purposes. 

Banana.— Oil of banana 2 drams, tartaric acid 1 dram, simple 
syrup 6 pints. 

Blackberry. —Make a simple syrup of 1 pound of sugar to 
each pint of water; boil until thick, add as many pints of the ex¬ 
pressed juice of ripe blackberries as there are pounds of sugar; 
put y 2 grated nutmeg to each quart of syrup; boil 15 or 20 min¬ 
utes; then add *4 gill fourth proof brandy for each quart of sy¬ 
rup; allow it to become cold, then bottle for use. 

Candying-, To Prevent.— The candying or crystalization 
of syrup, unless it be over saturated with sugar, may be pre¬ 
vented by the addition of a little citric or acetic acid (2 or 3 
drams per gallon). Confectioners add a little cream of tartar to 
the sugar to prevent granulation. 

Catawba Syrup.— Simple syrup 1 pint, catawba wine 1 pint. 
Note—All wine syrups are made in about the same proportions 
as this recipe. 

Champagne Syrup or Flavor.— Rhine wine 2 pints, 
brandy 2 ounces, sherry wine 1 ounce, granulated sugar 3 
pounds; dissolve the sugar without heat. 

Cherry Syrup.— Take sour cherries (a convenient quantity), 
bruise them in a mortar, to bi’eak the stones; express the juice; 
set aside 3 days to ferment, and proceed according to directions 
given for strawberry syrup No. 1. 



















































ALL TRADES. 


149 


Chocolate.— Chocolate 8 ounces, syrup sufficient, water y 2 
pint, white of 1 egg; grate the chocolate and rub in a mortar 
with the egg; when mixed, add water gradually and triturate 
till a uniform mixture is obtained; add syrup to make 4 pints, 
and strain. 

Cinnamon.— Oil of cinnamon 30 minims, carbonate or mag¬ 
nesia 60 grains, water 2 pints, granulated sugar 56 ounces; rub 
the oil first with the carbonate of magnesia, then with the water 
gradually added, filter through paper. (See Filtration in Depart - 
ment I.) In the filtrate dissolve the sugar without heat. 

Clarifying.— Mix the white of eggs or a solution of gelatine 
with the mixture to be clarified. 

Excelsior Syrup.— Simple syrup 1 pint, syrup of wild 
cherry bark 4 ounces, port wine 4 ounces. 

Grape.— Brandy % pint, spirits of lemon % ounce, tincture of 
red sanders 2 ounces, simple syrup 1 gallon. 

lemon.— Havana sugar 1 pound; boil in water down to 1 
quart; drop in the white of 1 egg; strain it; add M ounce tar¬ 
taric acid; let stand 2 days; shake often; 12 drops essence of 
lemon will improve it. 

lemon Extract.— Oil of lemon 3 ounces; cut with 95 pel 
cent proof alcohol; add 1 gallon 80 per cent proof alcohol, and 
filter through cotton or felt; put up in 2-ounce bottles. 

Maple Syrup.— Dissolve 3 l / 2 pounds of maple sugar in 1 
quart of water. 

Mulberry.— Mulberries not quite ripe 6 pounds, sugar, pow¬ 
dered, 6 pounds; place in a kettle and boil, stirring until the 
boiling syrup marks 30 degress Baume; throw in a strainer and 
allow to strain thoroughly. 

Xectar.— Vanilla syrup 5 pints, pineapple syrun 1 pint, straw¬ 
berry, raspberry or lemon syrup 2 pints. 

Orange Flower.— Orange flower water 1 pint, granulated 
sugar 28 ounces; dissolve without heat. 

Orange.— Oil of orange 30 drops, tartaric acid 4 drams, sim¬ 
ple syrup 1 gallon; rub the oil with the acid, then mix. 

Raspberry.— 1 . Raspberry juice 1 pint, simple syrup 2 pints, 
solution of citric acid 2 drams. 2. First make a syrup with 36 
pounds of white sugar and 10 gallons of water, and put it into a 
plain barrel: dissolve y pound of tartaric acid in 1 quart of cold 
water and add to the syrup; take y 2 pound of orris root and pour 
over it y 2 gallon of boiling water; let it infuse until cold, then fil¬ 
ter and put it into the barrel, stirring it well. 

Sarsaparilla.— Oils of wintergreen. anise and sassafras, of 
each 10 drops, fluid extract of sarsaparilla 2 ounces, simple sy¬ 
rup 5 pints, powdered extract of licorice y 2 ounce. 

Sherbet. — Mix equal parts of orange, pineapple and vanilla. 

































































S ~>4 


7a\ 



DEPARTMENT 

Sherry Cobbler.— Sherry wine 1 pint, simple syrup 1 
1 lemon cut in thin slices; macerate 12 hours and strain. 

Simple Syrup.— To make, use in proportions of 1 pound of 
white sugar to 1 pint of water. 

Strawberry.—1. Use strawberries of good flavor to obtain 
syrup of fine flavor, mash the fruit in a suitable vessel and leave 
the pulp 12 or 24 hours at a temperature between 70 and 80 de¬ 
grees; stir occasionally; press; set the juice aside for 1 night; 
add for every pound of juice 1 ounce Avoirdupois of cologne 
spirits or deodorized alcohol; mix; set aside for a night and fil¬ 
ter; for 1 pound of filtered juice take 10 pounds of sugar, and 
heat to the boiling point, taking care to remove from the fire as 
soon as the mixture begins to boil; remove the scum; bottle in 
clean bottles, rinsed with cologne spirits; this syrup, as well as 
those made by the same process, is strong enough to be mixed 
with 2 or 3 times its weight of simple syrup for the soda foun¬ 
tain. 2. Strawberry juice 1 pint, simple syrup 3 pints; solution 
of citric acid 2 drams. 

Vanilla Cream.—1. Fluid extract of vanilla 1 ounce, simple 
syrup 3 pints, cream (or condensed milk) 1 pint, coloi' with car¬ 
mine. 2. Cream syrup 1 pint, vanilla syrup 1 pint, oil of bitter 
almonds 4 drops. 

Note.— An excellent cream syrup is made as follows: Fresh, 
cream 1 pint, fresh milk 1 pint, powdered sugar 1 pound; mix 
by shaking and keep in a cool place. The addition of a few grains 
of bicarbonate of soda will retard souring. 

Vanilla Syrup.— Fluid extract of vanilla 1 ounce, citric acid 
*4 ounce, simple syrup 1 gallon; rub the acid with some of the 
syrup; add the extract of vanilla and mix. 

Wild Cherry.— Wild cherry bark (in coarse powder) 5 
ounces: moisten the bark with water and let it stand 24 hours 
in a close vessel, then pack firmly in a percolator and pour water 
upon it until 1 pint of fluid is obtained; add sugar 28 ounces. 

Wintergreen.— Oil of wintergreen 25 drops, simple syrup 
5 pints, burnt sugar to color. 

Note.—E ssences are made with 1 ounce of any given oil added 
to 1 pint of alcohol. Peppermint is colored with tincture tur¬ 
meric, cinnamon with tincture red saunders, wintergreen with 
tincture kino. Tinctures are made with 1 ounce of gum, root or 
bark, etc., dried, to each pint of proof spirits, and let it stand 1 
week and filter. 






Ti 





UTfoTT 

f ' 

















































ALL TRADES. 


151 


BEVERAGES. 


Medicinal Liquors and Drinks. Vinegars. 

Aerated Lemonade. —Into each bottle put lemon syrup 1 to 
1 y 2 ounces, essence of lemon 3 drops, susqui-carbonate of soda 
y 2 dram, water of sufficient quantity to nearly fill the bottle; 
have the cork fitted and ready at hand; then add of tartaric acid 

1 dram; instantly close the bottle and wire down the cork; it 
should be kept inverted in a cool place and preferably immersed 
in a vessel of ice cola water before using. 

Almond Milk.— Two ounces of sweet almonds, ounce of 
bitter almonds, 2 ounces of loaf sugar, 1 tablespoonful of orange 
flower water, 1 pint of spring water. Blanch the almonds and 
pound them with the sugar and orange flower water, in a mor¬ 
tar, addiug a few drops of water occasionally whilst pounding, 
to prevent too much oiliness. When the mixture looks creamy 
and smooth, pour it into a clean basin, add the cold spring 
water, and stir it with a silver or thin wooden spoon. Leave it 
for 2 hours, then strain and keep it either on ice or in a very 
cool place, as it is likely otherwise to turn sour. Almond milk 
is served with an equal amount of water. 

Ambrosial or Nectar Cream Soda.— Two ounces tar¬ 
taric acid, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 2{4 pounds white sugar, 1 
quart water, whites of 4 eggs well beaten, 2 tablespoonfuls wheat 
flour; put all in a tin dish and heat, but not to boiling point; add 

2 drops tine oil of lemon or other flavoring if preferred, and that 
will complete'the syrup; when ready to use, pour 3 tablespoon¬ 
fuls of the syrup into a tumbler % full of water, add as much 
soda as can be held on a dime and drink immediately. A cool, 
refreshing summer drink. 

Angostura Bitters.— Gentian 4 parts, calisaya bark, Can¬ 
ada snake root, Virginia snake root, licorice root, dandelion root, 
pimento root, angostura bark, each 10 parts, cardamon, rhu¬ 
barb, galangal, each 4 parts, orange peel 16 parts, caraway seed, 
cinnamon, nutmeg, each 2 parts, cloves *4 part,- coriander, cat¬ 
echu, wormwood, each 2 parts, mace 1 part, red sanders 12 pans, 
curcuma 8 parts, alcohol 65° 1450 parts, honey 480 parts; either 
maceration or percolation may be employed. 

Aniseed Cordial.— Aniseed oil 2 ounces (or essential oil 1*4 
dram), sugar 3 pounds per gallon. 2. Aniseed 4 ounces, corian¬ 
der and sweet fennel seed (bruised), each 1 ounce, rectified spir¬ 
its Vz gallon, water 3 quarts; macerate 5 or 6 days; draw over 7 
pints and add lump sugar 214 pounds. 3. Oil of aniseed 15 drops, 
oil of cassia and caraway seeds each 6 drops; rub them with a 
little sugar, then dissolve in spirits, 3 quarts, by shaking to¬ 
gether. Filter and dissolve in the liquor; sugar 1*4 pounds. 

Aperient Lemonade.— Sugar 1 ounce, lemon juice \ fluid 





















































DEPARTMENT V. 





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V-'i 


mi 


ounce, sulphate of soda 3 drams, water 8 fluid ounces; put them 
into a soda water bottle without shaking; have the cork ready 
fitted; add of sesqui-carbonate of soda y 2 dram, and instantly 
cork the bottle; wire it down and keep in a cool place, the bottle 
inverted. 

Apricot Wine.— Twelve pounds of ripe apricots, 6 ounces of 
loaf sugar to every quart of liquor. Wipe the apricots, cut them 
in pieces and let them boil in two gallons of water. After boil¬ 
ing up, let them simmer till the liquor is strongly impregnated 
with the flavor of the fruit. Strain through a hair sieve and put 
6 ounces to every quart of liquor. Boil up again, skim very care¬ 
fully, and as soon as no more scum appears, put it into an 
earthen pan. Bottle next day if it is quite clear and put one 
lump of sugar into each bottle. It should be a fine wine in 6 
months. 

Aromatic Bitters.— Macerate 1% pounds ground dried 
orange apples, y s pound ground orange peel, 1 ounce grouud 
dried calamus root, 1 ounce ground dried pimpinella root, % 
onnce ground dried cut hops for 14 days with 5 gallons of spiritf 
at 45°; press and add 1 pounds brown sugar syrup; filter. 

Artificial Cider.— Sugar 1 pouud, tartaric acid V% ounce, 
good yeast 2 tablespoonfuls, water 1 gallon; agitate to effect 
solution, and allow to ferment 12 hours or more. 2. Eighteen 
gallons of water, enough sulphuric acid to give the water an 
agreeable tartness. 25 pounds sugar, 2 ounces alum, iy 2 ounces 
ginger, 2*4 ounces cloves. 3 ounces bitter almonds; boil the last 
•4 ingredients in 1 gallon water for 2 hours; strain and add it to 
the remaining water. 3. Put in a cask 5 gallons hot water. 15 
pounds brown sugar, 1 gallon molasses, V 2 gallon hops or brewer’s 
yeast, good vinegar 6 quarts; stir well, add 25 gallons cold 
water and ferment. 

Baked Milk.— Put the milk in a jar, covering the opening 
with white paper, and bake in a moderate oven until thick as 
cream. May be taken by the most delicate stomach. 

BeetViiiegar.-One bushel sugar beets mixed with 9 bush¬ 
els of apples makes a cider richer than that produced from ap¬ 
ples alone. Sugar beet juice can be converted into vinegar the 
same as cider. It make a stronger article, equally as good, but 
of a different flavor. 

Blackberry Cordial.— Wash and pick over the berries; 
mash with a wooden spoon in a preserving kettle; let them 
come to a boil; strain; to every pint of juice add y 2 pint water, 1 
pound loaf sugar, 1 ounce each of cloves,; mace, and cinnamon. 
1 grated numeg, 1 ounce pounded green ginger; boil y 2 hour; 
strain, and when cool add to each pint 1 gill of brandy. Keep 
in a cool dry place. 

Blackberry Wine.—1. Gather when ripe on a dry day; 
put into a vessel with the head out and a tap fitted near the bot¬ 
tom: pour on boiling water; mash the berries with your hands, 
and let them stand covered till the pulp rises and forms a crust 







































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ALL TRADES. 


153 


in 3 or 4 days; then draw off the liquid into another vessel, and 
to every gallon add 1 pound of sugar; mix well and put it into a 
cask to work for 1 week or 10 days, and throw off any remaining 
lees When the working has ceased, bung the cask. After 6 or 
12 months it may be bottled. 2. Gather the berries when ripe: 
measure and bruise them; to every gallon add 1 quart of boiling 
water. Let the mixture stand 24 hours, stirring occasionally; 
strain off the liquor into a cask, to every gallon adding 2 pounds 
of sugar; cork tight and let it stand until October, and you will 
have wine for use without any further steaming or boiling. 

Black Clierry Wine.— Twenty-four pounds of small black 
cherries, 2 pounds of sugar to each gallon of liquor; bruise the 
cherries but leave the stones whole, stir well, and let the mix¬ 
ture stand 24 hours, then strain through a sieve, add the sugar, 
mix again, and stand another 24 hours; pour away the clear 
liquor into a cask, and when the fermentation has ceased, hung 
it closely; bottle in 6 months’ time. It will keep from 12 to 18 
months. 

Bolter’s Bitters.— Rasped quassia l'A ounces, calamus 1 Ya 
ounces, powdered c<itechu 1^4 ounces, cardamons 1/2 ounces, 
dried orange peel 2 ounces; macerate 10 days in Vz gallon strong 
whisky: filter and add 2 gallons of water; color with mallow or 
melva flowers. 

Bottle Soda Water. Without Machine.— In each gallon 
water dissolve % pound crushed sugar and 1 ounce super-car¬ 
bon^ of soda; then fill pint bottles with this water; drop into 
each bottle Vz dram pulverized citric acid; immediately cork and 
tiedown; handle the bottles carefully and keep cool; more sugai 
may be added if desired. 

Rromo and Cocoa. —Bromo and Cocoa can be made the same 
„„ phorolate. Equal parts of milk and water can be used m pre¬ 
paring these drinks, if pure milk is considered too rich, but they 
wm be found lacking in flavor, as nothing brings out the rich 
flavor of these compounds like pure milk. 

Bariev Water.— Two ounces pearl barley. 2 quarts of boil¬ 
ing wate‘r 1 pint of cold water. Wash the barley m cold water; 
mft it into a saucepan with the above proportion of cold water, 
and when it has boiled for about a quarter of an hour, stiam off 
tho water add the 2 quarts of fresh boiling water. Boil it until 
the liauYd is reduced *: strain it, and it will be ready for use. 
Ttma? be flavored with lemon-peel, after being sweetened, or a 
mmll Piece may be simmered with the barley. When the inva¬ 
lid may take it?a little lemon-juice gives this pleasant drmk in 
illness a very nice flavor. 

a < (■., v..j.._This is usuallv handed round after dinner, and 

should be drank well sweetened. The coffee should be made 
very strmie and served In very small cups but never mixed with 
nr cream Cafe Noir may be made of the essence of coffee 
hv nonring a dessertspoonful into each cup. and filling it up with 
boiling water. This is a very simple and expeditious manner of 


®V 


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111 


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154 


DEPARTMENT V. 


preparing coffee for a large party, but tbe essence for it must be 
made very good and kept well corked until required for use. 

Champagne, Artificial.— Take 2 or 3 sliced lemons, 2 
tablespoonfuls tartaric acid, 2 ounces race ginger, 3 pounds 
bright Demarara sugar; pour over them 5 gallons boiling water; 
when blood warm add y 2 pint distillery yeast or 1 pint home 
mewed; let the whole stand in the sun for i day; in the evening 
bottle and wire the corks; it will be ready to drink in 2 or 3 
days, and wiil sparkle and effervesce like genuine champagne, 
while to the palate and stomach it will prove agreeable and 
wnolesome. 2. Stoned raisins 7 pounds, loaf sugar 21 pounds, 
water 9 gallons, crystalized tartaric acid 1 ounce, cream of tar¬ 
tar y 2 ounce, honey or sugar 1 pound, sweet yeast V4 pint; fer¬ 
ment, skimming frequently, and w r hen the fermentatibn is nearly 
o\ er, add of coarsely powdered orris root 1 dram, orange flow r er 
water y 2 pint, lemon juice 1 pint; in 3 months fine it down with 
isinglass y 2 ounce; in 1 month more, if not sparkling, fine it 
down, and in 2 weeks bottle it, observing to put a piece of double 
refined white sugar the size of a pea in each bottle; lastly, wire 
down the corks and cover wfith tin foil, after the manner of 
champagne. 

Cherry Cordial.— Macerate 30 pounds red sour cherries, 
made into a pulp, with 4Vi gallous 95e alcohol; press, and add 
syrup of 42 pounds and sugar 3*4 gallons water, filter. 

Ching-Ching.— A good orange, a few drops of essence of 
cloves, ditto peppermint, 3 or 4 lumps of sugar, a tumblerful 
of ice. 

To Make Chocolate.— Allow Vi ounce of chocolate to each 
person; to every ounce allow Vi pint of water, Vi pint of milk. 
Make the milk hot; scrape the chocolate into it, and stir the mix¬ 
ture constantly and quickly until the chocolate is dissolved; 
bring it to the boiling point, stir it well, and serve directly with 
white sugar. 

Cider, Canned.— Cider may be preserved for years by putting 
up in air-tight cans, after the manner of preserving fruit. The 
liquid should be first settled and drawn off from the dregs, but 
fermentation should not be permitted to commence before can¬ 
ning. 

Cider Champagne.— Good cider, pale 1 hogshead, spirits 3 
gallons, honey or sugar 20 pounds; mix and let them rest for 2 
weeks; then fine with skimmed milk V4 gallon. This will be very 
pale; and a similar article, when bottled in champagne bottles 
and silvered and labeled, has often been sold to the ignorant for 
champagne. A raisin placed in each bottle increases the efferves¬ 
cence. 

Cider, Cherry.— Thirty gallons apple cider made from bitter 
apples, which are the best for making cider; 8 quarts dried 
blackberries, 2 quarts dried blueberries, 1 quart elderbei’ries, 75 
pounds browm sugar. To make smaller quantities use less of 
the ingredients. 



ALL TRADES. 


155 


Cider Clearing.— To clear and improve cider take 4 pints of 
ground horseradish and nearly 1 pound thick gray filtering pa¬ 
per to the barrel; shake or stir until the paper has separated 
into shreds, and let it stand 24 hours, and then draw off with a 
siphon. 

Cider, Preserving.— 1 . Fermentation may be largely pre¬ 
vented by filtration of the juice, when first expressed, by^which 
much of the material on which fermentation works is removed. 
2. When the cider in the barrel is in a state of lively fermenta¬ 
tion, add white sugar equal to 34 or % pound to each gallon of 
cider (according as the apples are sweet or sour); let the fermen¬ 
tation proceed until the liquid has the taste to suit, then add 34 
ounce sulphite (not sulphate) of lime to each gallon of cider: 
shake well and let it stand 3 days and bottle for use. The sul¬ 
phite should first be disolved in 1 quart or so of cider before in¬ 
troducing it into the barrel of cider. 3. Cider may be kept good 
in large quantities if 1 quart pure refined linseed or olive oil is 
poured in at the bung. This spreading over the top of the cider 
will prevent the air from coming in contact with it, and so keep 
it sweet. After the cider has been nearly all drawn this oil may 
be saved for another year, if desired, or used for other purposes. 

Cider Vinegar.— When cider has done fermenting, fill into a 
keg, then take strips of straw paper and dip them into New Or¬ 
leans molasses and put them into the keg of cider; set in a 
warm place near the stove, and in a few weeks the contents will 
have turned into sharp vinegar. The straw paper acts as mothei. 

Cider Without Apples.— To 1 gallon cold water add dark 
brown sugar 1 pound, tartaric acid 34 ounce, yeast 3 tablespoon- 
luls. Shake well together. 


Sour Cider, To Sweeten.— If cider is long made or souring 
when vou get it, about 1 quart hickory ashes (or a little more of 
other hardwood ashes) stirred into each barrel will sweeten and 
clarify it, but if it is not rectified it must be drawn off to get 
clean of the pomace, as with this in it it will soon sour. Oil or 
whisky barrels are best to put cider in, or 34 pint sweet oil to 1 
barrel or 1 gallon whisky to 1 barrel, or both may be added with 
decidedly good effects. Isinglass 4 ounces to 1 barrel helps to 
clarify and settle cider that is not to be rectified. 

Cocoa.— Allow 2 teaspoonfuls of some well prepared cocoa to 
1 breakfast-cup; boiling milk and boiling water. Put the co¬ 
coa into a breakfast-cup. pour over it sufficient cold milk to 
make it into a smooth paste, then add equal quantities of boil- 
imr milk and boiling water, and stir all well together. Care 
must be taken not to allow the milk to get burnt, as it will entirely 
spoil the flavor of the preparation. The rock cocoa, or that 
bought in a solid piece should be scraped, and made in the same 
manner, taking care to rub down all the lumps before the boil¬ 
ing liquid is added. All cocoa is better boiled for a minute or 


two. 


Coffee. —In preparing tea or coffee, it is of the first importance 










































156 


DEPARTMENT V 



to begin right. See that the teakettle is clean, and the water 
pure. A teakettle that is filled with lime, or other sediment, is 
uufit for use, and water that has stood in the house over night, 
or for some hours, is impure. To begin then, rinse the teakettle 
thoroughly and fill with fresh water, put on the fire, and bring 
to a boil quickly. For coffee, procure of a good reliable dealer a 
mixture of Mocha, to % Java, freshly roasted and ground. 
Allow a tablespoonful of ground coffee for every person to be 
served, and put in an extra spoon for every 5 or 6 persons. If 
an ordinary pot is used, mix the coffee with an egg, put it in the 
coffee pot and add to it about a cupful of cold water; set it on 
the stove and bring to a boil quickly. The moment it begins to 
boil, add boiling water (about 2 quarts to 5 spoonfuls of ground 
coffee) and set it on the back part of the stove where it will keep 
hot, but on no account allow it to boil, as that destroys the 
aroma. The coffee will be ready to serve in 6 or 8 minutes after 
hot water has been added. If a drip coffee pot is used, the coffee 
must be ground very fine. Good directions usually accompany 
the different kinds of coffee pots in use. However, great care 
must be taken to keep the strainer, whether made of cloth or 
wire, clean and free from all obstruction. If made of wire, it 
should be washed and cleaned with a brush, at least once a day. 

V 

Coffee, Another Method of Making 1 .— Allow 34 ounce, or 

1 tablespoonful of coffee to each person; to every ounce allow 34 
pint of water. Have a small iron ring made to fit the top of the 
coffee pot inside, and to this ring sew a small muslin bag (the 
muslin for the purpose must not be too thin). Fit the bag into 
the pot, pour some boiling water in it, and when the pot is 
well warmed, put the ground coffee into the bag: pour over as 
much boiling water as is required, close the lid. and when all 
the water has filtered through, remove the bag and send the cof¬ 
fee to the table. Making it in this manner prevents the neces¬ 
sity of pouring the coffee from 1 vessel to another, which cools 
and spoils it. The water should be poured on the coffee grad¬ 
ually, so that the infusion maybe stronger, and the bag must 
be well made, that none of the grounds may escape through the 
seams, and so make the coffee thick and muddy. 

Coffee, Essence of.— To every \i pound of ground coffee al¬ 
low l small teaspoonful of powdered chicory, 3 small teacupfuls, 
or 1 pint of water. Let the coffee be freshly ground, and, if pos¬ 
sible, freshly roasted; put it into a percolator, or filter, with the 
chicory, and pour slowly over it the above proportion of boiling 
water. When it has all filtered through, warm the coffee suffi¬ 
ciently to bring it to the simmering point, but do not allow it to 
boil; then filter it a second time, put it into a clean and dry bot¬ 
tle, cork it well, and it will remain good for several days. Two 
tablespoonfuls of this essence are quite sufficient for a breakfast- 
cupful of hot milk. This essence will be found particularly use¬ 
ful to those persons who have to rise extremely early; and hav¬ 
ing only the milk to make boiling, it is very easily and quickly 
prepared. When the essence is bottled, pour another 3 teacup- 






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ALL TRADES. 


157 


fuls of boiling water slowly on the grounds, which, when filtered 
through, will be very weak coffee. The next time there is essence 
to be prepared, make this weak coffee boiling, and pour it on the 
ground coffee instead of plain water; by this means a better cof¬ 
fee will be obtained. Never throw away the grounds without 
haying made use of them in this manner; and always cork the 
bottle well that contains this preparation, until the day that it 
is wanted for making the fresh essence. Prepared coffee essence 
can now be bought at a reasonable price, and of good quality. 
It needs to be mixed with boiling water or milk, to be filtered 
once, then brought to the boiling point, and allow 2 tablespoon¬ 
fuls for a breakfastcupful of hot milk. 

Coffee in a Saucepan.— Have an earthenware or fire-proof 
China pan, put in freshly, but not too finely ground coffee with 
water, a dessertspoonful to every; 1 /^ pint. Set it over the fire till 
it is just about to boil. Take it off, stir it well, put it on again, 
and again let it nearly boil. Repeat this twice, when a thick 
scum will have risen. Set it by the side of the fire, covered to 
settle, and serve with boiling milk. 

Coffee, To Roast.— It being an acknowledge fact that French 
coffee is of decidedly superior quality, and as the roasting 
of the berry is of great importance to the flavor of the 
preparation, it will be useful and interesting to know how they 
manage these things in France, To obtain this flavor before 
roasting, they add to every 3 pounds of coffee a piece of butter 
the size of a nut, and a dessertspoonful of powdered sugar; it is 
then roasted in the usual manner. A tin in a slack oven, or a 
frying-pan over the fire will serve, with care. A rotating coffee 
roaster is of course better. The addition of the butter and su¬ 
gar develops the flavor and aroma of the berry; but it must be 
borne in mind that the quality of the butter must be the 
very best. 

Corn Coffee.— Roast an ear of dry corn until the tips of the 
kernels are black. Break the ear in pieces, put in a bowl; then 
pour over it a pint of boiling hot water. Drink cold. 

Cottage Beer.— Good wheat bran 1 peck, water 10 gallons, 
hops 3 handfuls, molasses 2 quarts, yeast 2 tablespoonfuls; boil 
the bran and the hops in the water until both bran and hops 
sink to the bottom: then strain through a sieve, and when luke¬ 
warm put in the molasses and stir until assimilated; put in a 
cask and add the yeast when fermentation ceases; bung, and it 
is ready in 4 days. This is an excellent beer. 

Cream of Tartar Drink.— Dissolve y* an ounce of cream of 
tartar in y 2 a pint of syrup of sugar and water, add 20 drops of 
essence of lemon, and keep it in a bottle to be diluted with wa¬ 
ter, or soda water, as required. It will keep a long time. 

Curacoa Cordial.— Curacoa orange peel 2 pounds, *4 pound 
Ceylon cinnamon; soak in water; boil 5 minutes with juice of 
32 oranges and 14 gallons plain white syrup; add 6 gallons alco- 


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158 


DEPARTMENT V. 


hoi (95°); strain; filter, color dark yellow with burnt sugar 
coloring. 

Currant Water.— One pound of fine red currants, y 2 pound 
of raspberries, 1 pound of crushed loaf sugar water. Pick the 
fruit, add y 2 a pint of water, and crush with a wooden spoon, 
then put the puln into a preserving pan with half the sugar. 
Stir till it is beginning to simmer, then filter through a hair 
sieve. Make the rest of the sugar into a syrup with 3 gills of 
water, pour it to the fruit syrup, add a pint and a half of water. 
Let it cool, then decant like wine for use. 

Currant Wine.— 1 . To 10 quarts juice add 5 pounds sugar; 
pour through a cloth into a stone jar; after 4 or 5 days add 3 
pounds more sugar; skim every day. When through fermenting 
pour in a clean wooden cask; let it remain to the end of March. 
When bottled let it remain in a dark, cool place; take care to 
lay the bottles down to prevent bursting. 2. Take 4 quarts 
juice, 8 quarts water, 12 pounds granulated sugar; ferment in 
tubs and skim every day until it has done singing, then put it 
in a barrel; put the bung in loosely till it has stopped working, 
then drive in tight and it will be ready to bottle in January. 

Damson Wine.— One gallon of boiling water to every 8 
pounds of bruised fruit, 2*4 pounds of sugar to each gallon of 
juice. Well bruise the fruit and pour the boiling water on it; 
let it stand 48 hours. Then strain the mixture into a cask and 
put in the sugar. When fermentation ceases fill up the cask and 
bung closely. Bottle in 10 months’ time. It will be fit for use 
in a year, but improves with keeping. 

Economical Vinegar .— 1 Take a quantity of maple, beech, or 
basswood chips and soak them in good vinegar 3 or 4 days; with 
these chips fill a barrel which has been pierced with a large 
number of holes all around the sides to admit fresh air among 
the chips. Cut another barrel in halves: place y 2 below the bar¬ 
rel with the chips, the other y 2 above; pierce the bottom of the 
top tub with a number of gimlet holes, and place in the holes 
several threads of twine to make the vinegar flow evenly over 
the chips. The liquid drains down slowly among the chips and 
out of a faucet near the bottom of the barrel into the lower tub. 
It then should be pumped or baled back, running through the top 
tub into the barrel again. Leach any of the following prepara¬ 
tions through the shavings. One and one-half pounds sugar to 
each gallon water. y 2 gallon water to 2 gallons cider. The water 
should be soft, and 2 quarts of; yeast should be added to every 
barrel. This vinegar can be made in 3 days, and should be pre¬ 
pared in warm weather or in a room where a high temperature 
is kept up. 3 

Effervescing Gooseberry Wine.— To every gallon of wa¬ 
ter allow 6 pounds of green gooseberries, 3 pounds of lump 
sugar. This wine should be prepared from unripe gooseberries, 
in order to avoid the flavor which the fruit would give to the 
wine when in a mature state. Its briskness depends more upon 









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ALL TRADES. 

the time of bottling than upon the unripe state of the fruit, for 
effervescing wine can be made from fruit that is ripe as well as 
that which is unripe. The fruit should be selected when it has 
nearly attained its full growth, and consequently before it shows 
any tendency to ripen. Any bruised or decayed berries, and 
those that are very small should be rejected. The blossom and 
stalk ends should be removed, and the fruit well bruised in a 
tub or pan, in quantities as to ensure each berry being broken 
without crushing the seeds. Pour the water (which should be 
warm) on the fruit, squeeze and stir it with the hand until all 
the pulp is removed from the skin and seeds, and cover tne 
whole closely for 24 hours; after which strain it through a 
coarse bag, and press it with as much force as can be conveni- 
ently applied, to extract the whole of the juice and liquor the 
fruit may contain. To every 40 or 50 pounds of fruit 1 gallon 
more of hot water maybe passed through the marc, or husks, 
in order to obtain any soluble matter that may remain, and be 
again pressed. The juice should be put into a tub or a pan of 
sufficient size to contain all of it, and the sugar added to it. 
Let it be well stirred until the sugar is dissolved, and place the 
pan in a warm situation; keep it closely covered and let it fer¬ 
ment for a day or two. It must then be drawn off into clean 
casks, placed a little on one side for the scum that rises to be 
thrown out, and the casks kept filled with the remaining 
“must ” that should be reserved for that purpose. When the 
active fermentation has ceased, the casks should be plugged up- 
right, again filled, if necessary, the bungs be put in loosely, and, 
after a few days when the fermentation is a little more languid 
(which may be known by the hissing noise ceasing), the bungs 
should be driven in tight and a spile-hole made to give vent if 
necessary. About November or December, on a clear fine day, 
the wane should be racked from its lees into clean casks, which 
maybe rinsed with brandy. After a month it should be ex¬ 
amined to see if it is sufficiently clear for bottling; if not, it 
must be fined with isinglass, which may be dissolved in some of 
the wine; 1 ounce will be sufficient for 9 gallons. In March or 
April, or when the gooseberry bushes begin to blossom, the wine 
must be bottled in ordered to insure its being effervescing. 

Eg-gf Wine.— One egg, 1 tablespoonful and ^ glass of cold 
water, 1 glass of sherry, sugar, and grated nutmeg to taste. 
Beat the egg, mixing with it a tablespoonful of cold water; make 
the wine and water not, but do dot boil; pour on it the egg, stor¬ 
ing all the time. Add sufficient lump sugar to sweeten tne mix¬ 
ture, and a little grated nutmeg: put all into a very clean sauce¬ 
pan. set it on a gentle fire, and stir the contents until they thick¬ 
en, but do not allow them to boil. Serve in a glass with’sippets 
of toasted bread or plain crisp biscuits. When the egg is not 
warmed, the mixture will be found easier of digestion, but it is 
not so pleasant a drink. 

Fair Ground Lemonade.— Take 1 barrel of water; dissolve 
in 1 quart of warm water 25 cents’ worth citric acid; dissolve $2 





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1G0 


DEPARTMENT V. 


worth A sugar in 1 gallon water. Stir all together. A few cut 
up pieces of lemon may be added for appearance s sake. 

Flaxseed Lemonade.- Steep 2 tablespoonfuls of flaxseed in 
1 quart of hot water for ! 0 minutes. Stir in and add the juice 
of 3 lemons, a large cupful of sugar, and a wineglassful of wine. 
Drink either hot or cold. This is an excellent drink for persous 
suffering with colds or lung troubles. 

German Bitters.— Chamomile 2 parts, sweet flag 6 parts, 
orris root 8 parts, coriander 3 parts, centuary 1 part, orange 
peel 3 parts, alcohol 588 parts, water 672 parts, sugar 24 pans. 

Ginger Beer.— 1 . Lump sugar 1 pound, first-class unbleached 
Jamaica ginger (bruised) 1 ounce, cream of tartar % ounce, or 
tartaric acid y 2 ounce, 2 or 3 lemons (sliced), boiling water q. s. 
2. Into each bottle put 1 drop concentrated essense of ginger, 
simple syrup y 2 ounce, and fill with aerated water by means of 
bottling machine. Superior article for sale. 

Ginger Lemonade. —Half cup of vinegar, 1 cup sugar, 2 
teaspoonfuls ginger; stir well; put in a quart pitcher and fill 
with ice water; make sweet or sour by adding necessary in¬ 
gredients. 

Ging-er Mead.— One gallon water, 1 pound loaf sugar l / 2 
ounce race ginger, 1 lemon sliced without seeds, 1 teacupful 
yeast; let stand over night to ferment; then pour off without 
stirring; add to each bottle 1 raisip; cork tight. 

Gooseberry Vinegar.— Two pecks of crystal gooseberries, 
6 gallons of water, 12 pounds of beet sugar of the coarsest brown 
quality. Mash the gooseberries (which should be quite ripe) in 
a tub with a mallet; put to them the water nearly milk-warm; 
let this stand 24 hours, then strain it through a sieve, and put 
the sugar to it; mix it well and turn it. These proportions are 
for a 9 gallon cask, and if it be not quite full, more water must 
be added. Let the mixture be stirred from the bottom of the 
cask 2 or 3 times daily for 3 or 4 days to assist the melting of 
the sugar; then paste a piece of linen cloth over the bunghole 
and set the cask in a warm place, but not in the sun: any corner 
of a warm kitchen is the best situation for it. The following 
spring it should be drawn off into stone bottles, and the vinegar 
will be fit for use 12 months after it is made. This will be found 
a most excellent preparation, greatly superior to much that is 
sold under the name of the best white vinegar. Many years’ ex¬ 
perience has proved that pickle made with this vinegar will 
keep, when bought vinegar will not preserve the ingredients. 
The cost per gallon is merely nominal, especially to those who 
reside in the country and grow their own gooseberries; the 
coarse sugar is then the only ingredient to be purchased. 

Grape Vinegar.— 1 . Vinegar from grapes may be made as 
follows: The wine is stirred into a cask which contains lees, and 
when mixed is squeezed through cloth sacks into an iron-bound 
vat, whence, after standing some hours, it is drawn off into casks 



























































for fermenting. These casks have only a small opening at the 
top and are kept at 77 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit. After 14 or 
more days the vinegar is drawn off cautiously into barrels which 
contain birchwood chips. This clarifies it, and after standing a 
few days it may be siphoned off into casks. The residue contain¬ 
ing: mother is employed to ferment all the subsequent liquor by 
simply pouring the latter into the cask used previously. 2. Take 
full-grown green grapes before they turn sweet put them in a 
porcelain-lined kettle with water to cover them, and stew until 
tender: then pour into a hair sieve and let it stand to drain, 
pressing slightly, then sweeten slightly and heat the juice to the 
boiling point, and can in bottles or vials. This will spoil if not 
canned in a little longer time than common stewed fruit, but it 
will not produce mother nor breed vinegar weels. It can be used 
to acidify cabbage, and in the place of lemon or lime juice. The 
strained grapes can be returned to the kettle and sweetened, and 

with the addition of water, will prove sour enough for sauce. 

♦ 

Grape Wine, Home-Made.— 1 . One quart grape juice, 3 
quarts water, 2 y 2 pounds common brown sugar, keep in an open 
barrel 19 days, covered only with muslin to exclude insects, then 
put in a close cask, fasten and bung and set aside till spring, 
then rack off and bottle. 2. Let the grapes gathered be rather 
ripe, with all decayed ones removed; mash; strain and measure. 
To each gallon juice add 1 pound white sugar; let stand for 2 or 
3 days; skim, strain, and measure as before, and to each gallon 
add 1 pound of sugar; let stand again for 2 or 3 days and add 1 
pound white sugar to each gallon; cork and put away. Do not 
add a drop of water to the juice if you want rich wine. 

Hamburg: Bitters.— Ageric 2 parts, cinnamon 5 parts, cas¬ 
sia 4 parts, grains of paradise part, quassia 3 parts, cardemon 
1 part, gentian 3 parts, orange peel 3 parts, alcohol 556 parts, 
water 684 parts, acetic ether 2 parts; mix by either maceration 
or percolation. 

Home-Brewed Ale.— Take 8 bushels malt, hops 12 pounds, 
yeast 5 quarts. The malt being crushed or ground is mixed with 
72 gallons water at 160 degrees, and covered 3 hours, when 40 
gallons are drawn off, into which the hops are put to infuse: 60 
gallons of water at 170 degrees are then added to the malt in 
the mash-tub and well mixed, and after standing 2 hours 60 gal¬ 
lons are drawn off. The wort from these 2 mashes is boiled with 
the hops for 2 hours, and after being cooled down to 660 degrees 
is strained through a flannel bag into a fermenting tub, where it 
is mixed with the yeast and left to work 24 to 30 hours. It is 
then run into barrels to cleanse, a few gallons being reserved for 
filling up the cask as the yeast works over. 

Home-Made Soda.— Forty grains each carbonate soda and 
fine loaf sugar, 50 grains lemon or tartaric acid; mix these in 4 
glasses water; stir and drink; if a sliced lemon be substituted 
for the acid, this drink will be improved. 

Hop Beer.— 1 . Sugar 4 pounds, hops 6 ounces, 4 ounces gin- 


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162 


DEPARTMENT V. 


ger (bruised); boil the hops 3 hours with 5 quarts water; then 
strain; add 5 more quarts of water and the ginger; boil a little 
longer; again strain; add the sugar, and when luke warm add 1 
pint yeast. After 24 hours it will be ready for bottling. 2. Mix 
14 pounds molasses and 11 gallons water well together and boil 
2 hours with 6 ounces hops. When cool add 1 cupful yeast and 
stir well, 1 or 2 gallons at a time. Let it ferment 16 hours in a 
tub covered with a sack: then put it in a 9 gallon cask and keep 
it filled up. Bung in 2 days, and in 7 days it will be fit to drink. 

Hop Bitters.— Orange peel 2 parts, sweet flag and pimpin- 
ella root, each 1 part, hops y 2 part, alcohol and water, each 320 
parts, sugar 30 parts; when completed, color with burnt sugar. 
(See also Medical Department.) 

Iced Tea.— Make a pitcherful of tea 2 or 3 hours before wanted. 
It should be made stronger than if it were to be served hot, as 
the melting ice weakens it. About 10 or 15 minutes before serv¬ 
ing. add to the tea a quantity of chopped ice. Put a lump of ice 
in each cup or glass, and serve. 

Imperial Cream Mectar Soda.— Part 1. Water 1 gallon, 
loaf sugar 6 pounds, tartaric acid 6 ounces, gum arabic 1 ounce. 
Part 2. Flour 4 teaspoonfuls, white of 5 eggs; beat finely to¬ 
gether; add y 2 pint water. When the first part is blood warm 
put in the second; boil 3 minutes; to 3 tablespoonfuls of syrup to 
% glass of water add y 2 teaspoonful carbonate of soda made 
fine; stir well and drink. 

Jelly Water.— Put in a tumbler a tablespoonful of current 
jelly, and a tablespoonful of wine: mix them well together, then 
fill tbe glass with ice water. If the patient is feverish, leave out 
the wine. 

Koumiss (sometimes called milk beer.)—Into 1 quart of new 
milk put 1 gill fresh buttermilk and 3 or 4 lumps white sugar; 
mix well and see that the sugar dissolves; put ki a warm place 
to stand 10 hours, when it will be thick; pour from the vessel to 
another until it becomes smooth and uniform in consistencv. 
Bottle and keep in warm place 24 hours; it may take 36 in win¬ 
ter. The bottles must be tightly corked and the corks tied down. 
Shake well 5 minutes before opening. It makes a very agreea¬ 
ble drink, which is especially recommended for persons who do 
not assimilate their food, and young children may drink it as 
freely as milk. Instead of buttermilk, some use a teaspoonful of 
yeast. The richer your milk, which should be unskimmed, the 
better will be your koumiss. 

Lemonade for Invalids.— One-half a lemon, lump sugar to 
taste, 1 pint of boiling water. Pare off the rind of the lemon 
thinly: remove as much as possible of the white outside pith 
and all the pips; cut the lemon into slices. Put the slices of 
lemon, the peel and lump sugar into a jug; pour over the boiling 
water; cover it closely, and when it is cold, it will be fit to drink. 
It should either be strained or poured off from the sediment. 

Lemon Beer. — 1. To 20 gallons, boil 6 ounces of ginger root 


















































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ALL TRADES. 


163 


(bruised), M pound cream of tartar for 20 or 30 minutes in 2 or 
3 gallons of water; strain in 13 pounds of sugar in which is put y 2 
mi nr*, a nil of lemon and 6 eood lemons saueezed, having warm 


ounce oil of lemon and 6 good lemons squeezed, having warm 





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water enough to make the whole 20 gallons, just so hot you can 
hold your hand in it. Put in H4 pints yeast worked into paste 
with 5 or 6 ounces flour; let it work over night, then strain and 
bottle. 2. Sugar 1 pound, boiling water 1 gallon, 1 sliced lemon, 
bruised ginger 1 ounce, yeast 1 teacupful; let it stand 12 or 20 
hours, after which bottle. 

Lemon Cordial.— Macerate fresh and dried lemon peel, each 
2 ounces, and fresh orange peel 1 ounce in proof spirit 1 gallon for 
1 week; strain with expression; add clear soft water q. s. to re¬ 
duce it to desired strength; with lump sugar 3 pounds to the 
gallon. A little orange flower or rose water improves it. 

Lemonade Powder. —Powdered citric or tartaric acid 12 
grains, powdered white sugar y z ounce, essence of lemon 1 drop 
(or a little of the yellow pulp of the lemon rubbed off on a piece 
of sugar;) mix for 1 glass. 2. White sugar 4 pounds, of citric or 
tartaric acid 1 % ounces, essence Of lemon 14 ounce; mix well and 
preserve in a bottle for use. One to 2 dessertspoonfuls make a 
glass of lemonade; it is also put up in papers containing about 2 y 2 
drams each. 

Lime-Juice Brink. —Fresh lime, ice water, loaf sugar, a 
little liqueur. Squeeze the juice from the limes, strain it, and 
add pounded sugar to taste, and a little flavoring of liqueur, if 
liked. Put a little of this mixture in a glass, and fill up with wa¬ 
ter. All the cups, such as champagne and claret cup, are improved 
by the introduction of slices of fresh fruit, such as apricots or 
pineapple. 

Maple Beer.— To 4 gallons boiling water add 1 quart maple 
syrup and 14 ounce essence of spruce; add 1 pint yeast, and pro¬ 
ceed as with ginger beer. 

Mead.— Mix 1 quart boiling water with 214 pounds brown su¬ 
gar, 2 ounces tartaric acid and y 2 pint molasses; when cool add 
y 2 ounce of any flavoring extract; 2 fingers of the syrup in a 
glass of ice wafer makes a refreshing summer drink; serve each 
glass with 14 teaspoonful bicarbonate of soda. 

Milk or Cream. Substitute for.— Allow 1 new-laid egg 
to every large breakfast-cupful of tea or coffee. Beat up the 
whole of the egg in a basin, put it into a teacup (or a portion of 
it, if the cup be small), and pour over it the tea or coffee very 
hot. These should be added very gradually and stirred all the 
time to prevent the egg from curdling. In point of nourishment, 
both these beverages are much improved by this addition. 

Molasses Beer’.— Hops 1 ounce, water 1 gallon; boil 10 min¬ 
utes; strain; add molasses 1 pound, and when luke-warm, yeast 
1 spoonful; ferment. 

Mulled Buttermilk.— The well beaten yolk of an egg added 


to boiling buttermilk and allowed to boil up; or add to the boil- 
ing buttermilk a little thickening of flour and cold buttermilk. 





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DEPARTMENT V. 


Nourishing Lemonade.— One and y 2 pint of boiling water, 
the juice of 4 lemons, the rinds of 2, V 2 pint of sherry. 4 eggs, 6 
ounces of loaf sugar. Pare off the lemon-rind thinly, put it into 
a jar with the sugar, and pour over the boiling water. Let i 
cool, then strain it; add the wine, lemon-juice, and eggs, previ 
ously well beaten, and also strained, and the beverage will be 
ready for use. If thought desirable, the quantity of sherry and 
water could be lessened, and milk substituted for them. To ob¬ 
tain the flavor Of the lemon-rind properly, a few lumps of the 
sugar should be rubbed over it, until some of the yellow is ab¬ 
sorbed. 


Orangeade. — 1. Juice of 4 oranges, thin peel of 1 orange, 
lump sugar 4 ounces, boiling water 3 pints. 2. Juice and peel of 
.1 large orange, citric acid 15 grains, sugar 3 ounces, boiling wa¬ 
ter 1 quart. 

Orangeade Powders.— Powdered sugar 14!4 ounces, pow¬ 
dered orange peel 12 granes, oil of orange peel 60 drops, essence 
of cedrat 12 drops, bicarbonate of soda 314 ounces; mix and put 
145 grains in each blue paper. In white paper put 32 grains tar¬ 
taric acid or 30 grains citric acid, or the alkaline and acid pow¬ 
ders may be put in separate bottles with a measure holding the 
proper proportions of each. The orange peel may be omitted. 
To use, mix the powders in water. 

Orange Wine.— Oranges, 32 pounds of lump sugar, water. 
Break up the sugar into small pieces and put it into a dry, sweet 
9 gallon cask, place in a cellar or other storehouse where it is 
intended to be kept. Have ready, close to the cask 2 large pans 
or wooden keelers, into one of which put the peel of the oranges, 
pared quite thin, and into the other the pulp after the juice has 
been squeezed from it. Strain the juice through a piece of 
double muslin, and put it into the cask with the sugar; then 
pour about 1J4 gallon of cold spring water on both the peels and 
pulp; let it stand for 24 hours, and then strain it into the cask; 
add more water to the peels and pulp when this is done, and re¬ 
peat the same process every day for a week. It should take about 
a week to fill up the cask. Be careful to apportion the quantity as 
nearly as possible to the 7 days, and to stir the contents of the 
cask each day. On the third day after the cask is full—that is, 
the tenth day after the commencement of making—the cask may 
be securely bunged down. This is a very easy and simple 
method, and the wine made according to it will be pronounced 
to be most excellent. There is no troublesome boiling, and all 
fermentation takes place in the cask. When the above direc¬ 
tions are attended to, the wine cannot fail to be good. It should 
be bottled in 8 or 9 months, and it will be fit for use in 12 months 
after the time of making. Ginger wine may be made in precisely 
the same manner, only with the 9 gallon cask for ginger wine, 2 
pounds of the best whole ginger, bruised, must be put with the 
sugar, It will be found convenient to tie the ginger loosely in a 
muslin bag. 

Ottawa Beer.— Take 1 ounce each of sassafras, allspice, yel- 


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ALL TRADES. 


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low dock, and wintergreen, ^ ounce each wild cherry bark and 
coriander, *4 ounce hops, 3 quarts molasses; pour sufficient boil¬ 
ing water on the ingredients, and let stand 24 hours; filter, and 
add l / z pint yeast. Ready for use in 24 hours. 

Peach Cordial.— Make a rich syrup of 1 quart peach juice 
and 1 pound white sugar; when cold, add *4 pint best brandy; 
for a drink, dilute with water. 

Peppermint Cordial.— 1. Pour 1 quart boiling water on *4 
pound of loaf sugar; stir till sugar dissolves; add 24 drops oil of 
peppermint; bottle while warm. 2. Good whisky and water, of 
each 10 gallons, white sugar 10 pounds, oil of peppermint 1 
ounce in 1 pint alcohol, 1 pound flour well worked in the fluid, *4 
pound burnt sugar to give color; mix, and let stand 1 week be¬ 
fore using. 

Peruvian Bitters.— Peruvian bark and orange peel of each 
8 parts, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and cayenne, of each % part, 
alcohol and water, of each 492 parts; mix by maceration or per¬ 
colation. 

Pineapple Water .—One large, ripe pineapple, 1 pint of boil¬ 
ing syrup, juice of 1 lemon. Peel the pine, slice and mash it 
well in a basin, then pour on the syrup and lemon juice; stir 
well and cover. Let it stand 2 hours, then filter through a fine 
silk sieve and add a quart of spring water. 

Pomegranate Brink.— Four pomegranates, *4 pound of 
pounded loaf sugar, 1 pint of water, the juice of 2 limes. Put 
the red pips of the fruit into a basin with the sugar, bruise all 
together, pour over the water, then the lime-juice and strain 
several times through muslin. 

Pop.— Cream of tartar 3 ounces, ginger 1 ounce, white sugar 
24 ounces, lemon juice 1 ounce, boiling water 1*4 gallons; when 
cool strain and ferment with 1 ounce yeast; bottle. 

Portable Lemonade .— 1 Tartaric acid 1 ounce, white sugar 
2 pounds, essence of lemon *4 ounce; powder and keep dry for 
use. One dessertspoonful will make a glass of lemonade. 

Raisin Wine.— Ten pounds of raisins, 1 pound of sugar. The 
raisins must be sound and large, Pick them very clean and 
chop finely. Pour a gallon of hot water on them and press the 
liquor through a bag. Let it stand 12 hours, then put in the 
sugar and leave it to ferment. When this is over, cask it, bung 
it and leave it for 3 months; then draw it off into another cask, 
quite filling it. Bung very closely and bottle in 10 months’ 
time. It will be fit to drink in a year. 

Raspberry Slim »>.—Place red raspberries in a stone'jar, 
cover them with good cider vinegar and let stand over night, in 
the morning strain, and to each pint of juice, add 1 pint of sugar; 
boil 5 minutes, skim and let cool; then bottle and cork tightly. 

Raspberry Vinegar.— To every 3 pints of the best vinegar 
allow 4 l / 2 pints ,of freshly gathered raspberries; to each pint of 








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DEPARTMENT V. 


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liquor allow 1 pound of pounded loaf sugar, 1 wineglassful bran¬ 
dy; let the raspberries be freshly gathered; pick them from the 
stalks and put 1 y z pints of them into a stone jar, pour 3 pints of 
the best vinegar over them and let them remain for 24 hours; 
then strain the liquor over another 1)4 pints of fresh raspber¬ 
ries. Let them remain another 24 hours, and the following day 
repeat the process for the third time; then drain off the liquor 
without pressing, and pass it through a jelly bag (previously wet 
with plain vinegar), into a stone jar. Add to every pint of the 
liquor 1 pound of pounded loaf sugar; stir them together, and 
when the sugar is dissolved, cover the jar; set it upon the fire in 
a sauce pan of boiling water and let it boil for an hour, removing 
the scum as fast as 'it rises; add to each pint a glass of brandy; 
bottle it and seal the corks. This is an excellent drink in cases 
of fever and colds; it should be diluted with cold water accord¬ 
ing to the requirements of the patient. To be boiled 1 hour. 

Raspberry Wine.— Gather the raspberries when ripe; bruise 
them; strain through a bag into jars; boil the juice and to every 
gallon put 1)4 pounds lump sugar; now add whites of eggs and 
let the whole boil for 15 minutes, skimming as the froth rises; 
when cold and settled decant into a cask, adding yeast to make 
it ferment. When this has taken place, add 1 pint white wine or 
y 2 pint proof spirits to each gallon, and hang in the cask a bag 
containing 1 ounce bruised mace. In 3 months, if kept in a cool 
place, it will be excellent. 

Red Currant Wine with Raspberries.— Ten gallons of 
red currant juice, 1 pint of raspberry juice, 20 gallons of water, 
18 pounds of finely sifted loaf sugar. Put the ingredients together 
and let them stand until the sugar is dissolved, then put the 
liquor into a cask, and bung lightly, for the air to aid in the 
fermentation. Let it cease fermenting, then bung tightly. Bot¬ 
tle in a year’s time, using sound corks and sealing them. It will 
be iu excellent condition in three months. 

Rhubarb Sherbet.— Boil in 3 pints water 6 or 8 green stalks 
rhubarb and 4 ounces raisins or figs; when the water has boiled 
y 2 hour, strain and mix it with 1 teaspoonful rosewater, and 
orange or lemon syrup to taste. Drink it cold. 

Root Beer.— 1 . Take 3 gallons molasses and 10 gallons wa¬ 
ter at 1606 1 Fahr.; let this stand 2 hours, then pour into a barrel 
and add powdered sassafras and wintergreen bark each y 2 
pound, bruised sassafras root )4 pound, yeast 1 pint, water to fill 
the barrel; ferment 12 hours and bottle. 2 . For 10 gallons beer 
take 3 pounds common burdock root or 1 ounce essence sassa¬ 
fras, y 2 pound good hops, 1 pint corn, roasted brown; boil in G 
gallons pure water till the strength is obtained; strain while hot 
into a keg; add cold water to make 10 gallons; when nearly cold 
add molasses or syrup until palatable; add also as much fresh 
yeast as will raise a batch of 8 loaves of bread. Place iu the keg 
in a cool place, and in 48 hours it will be first-rate beer. 3 . For 
each gallon water take hops, burdock, yellow dock, sarasparilla 
dandelion, and spikenard root (all bruised) of each )4 ounce; 


























































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ALL TRADES. 

6oil 20 minutes; strain while hot; add 8 or 10 drops of oil of 
spruce and sassafras mixed in equal proportions. When cool 
enough put 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of yeast: molasses % pint or 
white sugar, y 2 pound gives the right sweetness. 

Royal Cordial.— Take a stone bottle and put into it 2 quarts 
best brandy, add 2 drams angelic seed, 1 ounce coriander seeds, 

1 teaspoonful each fennel and aniseeds, previously bruised in 
a mortar; squeeze into the mixture the juice of 2 fresh lemons, 
putting in the rinds cut small; add 1 pound loaf sugar, and agi¬ 
tating the jug from time to time, let the whole infuse 5 days; 
after this, pass it through filtering paper and bottle it, corking 
tightly; 2 tablespoonfuls to a small wineglass of water is the dose. 

Sacramental Wine.— Bruise the grapes and let them stand 
over night, then press out the juice in a vessel of water on the 
stove; when the water reaches the boiling point cork tightly 
and seal with wax. Box and set away in a cool place. Bottled 
in this way the juice of the grape remains as when pressed out 
for years. When a bottle is opened it must be used soon, as fer¬ 
mentation begins in a few hours. 

Sarsaparilla Beer.— Sarsaparilla (sliced) 1 pound, guai- 
acum bark (bruised small) M pound, guaiacum wood (rasped) and 
licorice root (sliced), of each 4 ounces, aniseed (bruised) iy 2 
ounces, mezereon root bark 1 ounce, cloves (cut small) x /i ounce, 
moist sugar 3 l / 2 pounds, hot water (not boiling) 9 quarts; mix in 
a clean stone jar, and keep in a moderately warm room, shaking 

2 or 3 times daily until fermentation sets in, then let it stand 1 
week, when it will be fit for use. 

Sarsaparilla Mead.— One pound Spanish sarsaparilla; boil 
5 hours, so as to strain off 2 gallons; add 16 pounds sugar and 
10 ounces tartaric acid: y 2 wineglass of syrup to y 2 pint tumbler 
of water, and y 2 teaspoonful soda powder is a fair proportion for 
. a drink. 

Sassafras Mead.— Three and y 2 pounds nice brown sugar; 1*4 
pints goods molasses, 3 quarts boiling water, % quart tartaric 
acid; when cool strain into a jug and mix with this y 2 ounce 
essence of sassafras. Put in bottles, cork tightly and keep in a 
cool place. For a drink put 2 spoonfuls of this syrup into % 
glass ice water, and then a'dd y a teaspoonful soda 

Sherbet.— Eight ounces carbonate of soda, 6 ounces tartaric 
acid, 2 pounds powdered loaf sugar, 3 drams essence of lemon; 
mix thoroughly; keep corked and dry; stir in 2 teaspoonfuls to 
1 pint cold water, and drink. 

Slippery Elm Bark Tea.— Break the bark into bits, pour 
boiling water over it. cover, and let it infuse until cold. Sweeten, 
ice, and take for summer disorders, or add lemon juice and drink 
for a bad cold. 

Small Beer.— Take 1 quart New Orleans molasses, 1 ounce 
essence of spruce, 1 ounce of essence of wintergreen, y 2 ounce 
essence of sassafras; fill a pail with hot water; mix well; let 
stand 10 or 12 hours: bottle, and in 3 hours it is fit for use. 


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DEPARTMENT V. 

Soda Powders.— 1. Tartaric acid 1 ounce, bicarbonate soda 
1 ounce, 54 grains, or bicarbonate of potassa 1 ounce, 2 drams, 
40 grains; reduce the acid and either bicarbonate separately to 
fine powder; divide each of these into 16 powders and preserve 
the acid and alkaline powders in separate papers of different col¬ 
ors. 2. Citric acid 9 drams, bicarbonate of soda 11 drams, or bi¬ 
carbonate of potassa 13 drams. Proceed as last, dividing each 
into 18 parts. 3. Tartaric acid (in crystals) 10 drams, bicar¬ 
bonate of soda 11 drams, or bicarbonate of potassa 13 drams. 
Reduce them to power, and divide into 18 parts. 

Spruce Beer.— 1 . Essence of spruce Vi pint, pimento and gin¬ 
ger (bruised), of each 5 ounces, hops Vi pound, water 3 gallons; 
boil the whole for 10 minutes; then add moist sugar 12 pounds; 
warm water 11 gallons; mix well, and when onl TT luke-warmadd 
of yeast 1 pint. After the liquor has fermented 24 hours, bottle. 
2. Cold water 10 gallons, boiling water 11 gallons; mix in a 
barrel; add molasses 30 pounds, or brown sugar 24 pounds, oil 
of spruice 1 ounce; add 1 pint yeast; ferment; bottle in 2 or 3 
days. If you wish white spruice beer use lump sugar. For gin¬ 
ger flavor use 17 ounces ginger root (bruised) and a few hops; 
boil 30 minutes in 3 gallons water; strain and mix well; let it 
stand 2 hours and bottle, using yeast. Birch beer can be made 
by using oil of birch instead of spruce. 3. Boil 1 handful of hops 
and 2 handsful of chips of sassafras root in 10 gallons of water; 
strain and turn on while hot 1 gallon molasses, 2 spoonfuls es¬ 
sence of spruce, 2 spoonfuls of ginger, and 1 spoonful pounded 
allspice; put into a cask, and when cold enough add 1 pint good 
yeast; stir well; stop it close. When clear, bottle and cork. 

Stomach Bitters (Equal to Hostetter’s, which see in “Med¬ 
ical Preparations)/’—Take of European gentian root \Vi ounces, 
orange peel 2 Vi ounces, cinnamon % ounce, aniseed and corian¬ 
der seed of each Vi ounce, cardamon seed Ve ounce, ungronnd Pe¬ 
ruvian bark 1 Vi ounce, gum kino ounce; bruise: put into best 
alcohol 1 pint; let stand 1 week; pour off the clear tincture; boil 
the dregs a few minutes in 1 quart water; strain, and press out 
the strength; then dissolve 1 pound loaf sugar in the hot liquid, 
adding 3 quarts cold water, and mix with the spirit tincture first 
poured off. 

Stoughton Bitters.— Orange peel 12 parts, gentian 16 
parts, Virginia snake root 3 parts, American saffron and red 
sanders, of each 1 part, alcohol 104 parts, water 56 parts; mix 
by percolation or maceration. 

Straight Lemonade.— 1 . Take 2 lemons, divide them, and 
put each Vi into a lemon squeezer; when all the juice is extracted 
put the remainder of the lemons into a pitcher and pour boiling 
water on them; after they have stood a little, squeeze all the 
goodness from them; add the juice to some loaf sugar to sweeten 
pleasantly; then pour on enough cold water to make the desired 
strength. Ice must be added. 2 . Citric acid 1 to 1 Vi drams, es¬ 
sence lemon 10 drops, sugar 2 ounces, cold water 1 pint; agitate 
together until dissolved. 





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Strawberry Cordial.— One quart strawberries, fully ripe, 
1 lemon, 1 orange, 3pints water, 1 pound sifted sugar; mash the 
strawberries through a sieve; add juice of lemon and orange and 
the water, and work together; let stand 2 hours; put the sugar 
into a bowl and strain the juice over it, stirring till sugar is dis¬ 
solved; stand on ice before serving; a delicious drink. 


Strawberry Sherbet. —Crush 1 quart ripe berries; add 
juice of 1 lemon, 2 tablespoonfuls orange flower water, and 3 
pints water; let them stand several hours; then strain over % 
pound sugar; set in ice an hour before using. (For delicious 
summer drinks, see Syrups.) 


Strawberry Water.— One pound fine strawberries, y 2 pound 
of loaf sugar, juice of 1 lemon. Crush the sugar finely, and sift 
over the strawberries, which should be red and ripe. Add y 2 a 
pint of cold water, filter through a sieve, add a quart of spring 
water, and the strained juice of a lemon. 


Strawberry Wine.—1. To 1 quart of strawberry juice add 
1 quart water and 1 pound sugar; stir well and let it ferment 
in an open jar. When it has entirely stopped fermenting draw 
off in bottles and cork. 2. Take 3 y 2 gallons cold water, 3 gallons 
cider and 3 gallons strawberries; let them ferment and add to 
them 8 pounds sugar, l l / 2 ounces red tartar in flue powder, the 
juice and rind of 1 lemon, 1 quart brandy. This will make 9 
gallons of wine. The fruit should be picked when there has been 
two or three days clear weather, and it should be bottled when 
the atmosphere is clear. The bottles must be sound and clean, 
and the corks new and made to fill the necks of the bottles so as 
to render them air tight. All wine should be kept in a cool cellar, 
the bottles laid on their side. 

Tea, Perfect Method of Making;.— There is very little art 
in making good tea. If the water is boiling and there is no sparing 
of the fragrant leaf, the beverage will almost invariably be good. 
The teapot must be kept dry. Delicately flavored tea is better 
made in an earther than a metal pot. The old-fashioned plan of 
allowing a teaspoonful to each person, and one over, is still 
practiced. Warm the teapot with boiling water; let it remain 
for 2 or 3 minutes for the vessel to become thoroughly hot, then 
pour it away. Put in the tea, pour in from y 2 to % of a pint of 
freshly boiling water, close the lid and let it stand for the tea to 
draw from 5 to 10 minutes; then fill up the pot with water. The 
tea will be quite spoiled unless made with water that is actually 
boiling, as the leaves will not open, and the flavor not be ex¬ 
tracted from them; the beverage will consequently be colorless 
and tasteless—in fact, nothing but tepid water. Neither will it 
be good if the water has simmered for hours. When there is a 
very large party to make tea for, it is a good plan to have 2 tea¬ 
pots instead of putting a large quantity of tea into 1 pot; the 
tea, besides, will go farther. When the infusion has been once 
completed, the addition of fresh tea adds very little to the 
strength; so, when more is required, have the pot emptied of the 


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old leaves, scalded, and fresh tea made in the usual manner. 
Economists say that a few grains of carbonate of soda added be¬ 
fore the boiling water is poured on the tea, assist to draw out 
the goodness. If the water is very hard, perhaps it is a good 
plan, as the soda softens it; but care must be taken to use this 
ingredient sparingly, as it is liable to give tea a soapy taste if 
added in too large a quantity. For mixed tea the usual propor¬ 
tion is 4 spoonfuls of black to 1 of green; more of the latter 
when the flavor is very much liked; but strong green tea disa¬ 
grees with some persons and should never be partaken of by 
them. 

Note.— The tea-float is a very useful addition to the teapot. 
The tea is placed in the float, and the float in the teapot. Boiling 
water is added as in ordinary tea-making. The float rises to the 
surface and thus retains the tea at the hottest part of the water 
instead of its sinking to the bottom, which is the coldest part. 
By this application of natural laws and the chemistry of tea¬ 
making, all the strength of the tea is withdrawn and the infu¬ 
sion is far stronger than when prepared in the usual way. A 
smaller quantity of tea is therefore required when the tea-float 
is used. 

Toast Water.— Toast a slice of bread very brown, break it 
into pieces, and pour over it a cupful of boiling water. When 
cold it makes a nourishing drink. 

Welsli Nectar,— One pound of raisins, 3 lemons, 2 pounds of 
loat sugar. 2 gallons of boiling water. Cut the peel of the lemon 
very thin, pour upon it the boiling water, and, when cool, add 
the strained juice of the lemons, the sugar, and the raisins, 
stoned and chopped very fine. Let it stand 4 or 5 days, stirring 
it every day. then strain it through a jelly bag and bottle it for 
present use. 

Whey.— To a pint of warm new milk add a teaspoonful of 
prepared rennet. Let it stand, and then strain it through a 
piece of muslin. This can sometimes be taken when milk can¬ 
not. It is a useful drink in feverish complaints. White wine 
whey is made by pouring a wineglassful of sherry into a break¬ 
fast cupful of boiling milk, and then straining through muslin. 
Treacle posset is made of boiling milk, with 1 or 2 tablespoon- 
fuis of treacle, in the same way. Alum whey and tamarind 
whey are also occasionally made. 

White Wine Vinegar.— Mash up 20 pounds raisins; add 10 
gallons of water; let it stand in a warm place 1 month and you 
will have pure white wine vinegar. The raisins may be used a 
second time. x 

Wild Cherry Bitters.— Wild cherry bark 4 parts, partridge- 
berry (Michella reptans) 1 part, juniper-berries V% part, prickley 
ash part; exhaust with water 40 parts; after Altering add 
sugar 8 parts, alcohol 6 parts. 







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ALL TRADES. 


171 


VARIOUS RECIPES FOR THE SICK-NURSE. 

Sago, Cream, and Extract of Beef.— Two ounces of sago, 
y 2 pint of water, y 2 pint of cream, yolks of 4 eggs, 1 quart of beef 
tea. Wash 2 ounces of sago until the water poured from it is 
clear. Then stew the sago in half a pint of water until it is quite 
tender and very thick; mix with it half a pint of good cream 
and the yolks of 4 eggs, and mingle the whole with 1 quart of 
beef tea, which should be boiling. Useful in cases of lingering 
convalescence after acute disease. 

Tapioca and Cod River.— Quarter pound of tapioca, 2 
quarts of water, % pint of milk, 1 pound of fresh cod liver, salt, 
pepper. Boil a quarter of a pound of tapioca till tender in 2 
quarts of water, drain it, add half a pint of milk, salt and pepper 
to season, add 1 pound of fresh cod liver cut in pieces. Simmer 
very slowly for half an hour till the liver is quite cooked. Press 
on it witn a spoon to get as much oil into the tapioca as possible. 
After taking away the liver, mix the tapioca. If too thick, add 
a little more milk. Tapioca thus cooked is nourishing and easily 
digested. 

Bnrdete’s Restorative Jelly.— Three ounces of isinglass, 
2 ounces of gum arabic, 2 ounces of sugar candy, a bottle of 
sherry. Put them in a jar, cover it closely, and let it stand all 
night; then set it in a saucepan of water, and let it simmer till 
it is dissolved. 

Invalid’s Jelly,— Twelve shanks of mutton, 3 quarts of 
water, a bunch of sweet herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 3 blades 
of mace, 1 onion, 1 pound of lean beef, a crust of bread toasted 
brown. Soak the shanks in plenty of water for some hours, and 
scrub them well; put them, with the beef and other ingredients, 
into a saucepan with the water, and let them simmer very 
gently for 5 hours. Strain the broth, and, when cold, take off all 
the fat. It may be eaten either warmed-up or cold as a jelly. 

Meat Juice.— Scrape the meat very fine with a knife, and 
take away all fat and fibre. The finer it is scraped the better. 
Put it in a glass with its own weight of cold or lukewarm water, 
and let it stand twenty minutes. Then strain it. Children 
sometimes take it mixed with sugar. The appearance can be 
disguised with Liebig's extract. 

Beef-Tea Cnslard.— In those cases where some variation 
from beef-tea is desired, the following may be found useful; 
Take a gill of beef-tea, the yolks of 2 eggs, the white of 1, and a 
pinch of salt. Mix all thoroughly together, butter an earthen¬ 
ware cup very thoroughly, pour in the mixture, tie buttered 
paper over, and steam it for twenty minutes. Turn it out, and 
serve hot or cold, or put a few pieces into a cup of broth. The 
water should not bubble after the custard is in. 

Beef Jelly.— Cut 3 pounds of lean shin of beef into small 
pieces, and put it in a jar with seasoning, and just enough water 


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172 


DEPARTMENT V. 


to cover it. Lemon-peel, celery, or spice may be added to 
flavor. Tie it closely down with brown paper, and set it in a 
cool oven, where it should remain for 4 or 5 hours. Then strain 
off the liquor into very small moulds or cups, out of which it 
should turn in a jelly. If steak is used, it is necessary to add a 
little gelatine or isinglass. To be served cold. It can sometimes 
be retained on the stomach when ordinary hot beef-tea is at 
once rejected, but. if made for such a patient, should be without 
flavoring. 

Bread-aml-Water Poultice.— (Abernethey's Plan .)—First 
scald out a basin: then, having put in some boiling water, throw 
in coarsely-crumbled bread, and cover it with a plate. When 
the bread has soaked up as much water as it will imbibe, drain 
off the remaining water, and there will be left a light pulp. 
Spread tnis a third of an inch thick on folded linen, and apply it 
when oi the temperature of a warm bath. To preserve it moist, 
occasionally drop warm water on it. 

Linseed-Meal Poultice.— A linseed poultice being always 
needed hot, care should be taken that it is made so. Put the 
meal into the oven to heat for a quarter of an hour, and scald 
out the basin in which it is to be mixed with boiling water. 
Next pour in as much boiling water as is needed according to 
the size of the poultice required: then, stirring with a knife all 
the time, shake in the hot meal till the poultice is sufficiently 
thick. In some cases it is better to put the poultice upon the 
skin, when, to prevent its sticking, it may be slightly oiled. A 
paper cut rather larger than the poultice will then serve for 
spreading it on. When it is preferred that it should not touch 
the skin, an old thin handkerchief answers well for a wrapper, 
the surplus being turned over at the back of the poultice. In 
either case it should be covered with cotton-wool and oil-silk to 
retain the heat as long as possible. 

Poultice for Chilblains.— Bake a common white turnip 
and scrape out the pulp: mix it with a tablespoonful of salad-oil, 
one of mustard, and one of grated horseradish. In this way 
form a poultice, and apply it to the chilblains on a piece of linen 
ag- 

GLUES AND CEflENTS. 


GLUES. 

Botanical. —1 . Used for mounting ferns and botanical speci¬ 
mens: Gum arabic 5 parts, white sugar 3 parts, starch 2 parts; 
add very little water; boil, stirring until thick aud white. 2. 
For mosses: Clarified glue, dissolved in water to the thickness 
of molasses; add a thickening of flour and water while the glue 
is boiling until about as thick as clear starch ; apply to the moss 
or lichen, and to the surface to which it is to be attached. 

















































































t 'sUl'jyA 

Tw 

l! - 

5" : r -■ ^ 

rarm 


173 

Drapers’ Glue, For Joining- Purposes. —Glue, cut in 
small pieces, 3 parts, water 8 parts; let stand for several hours; 
then add hydrochloric acid % part and sulphate zinc 1 part; ex- 

E ose the whole to a temperature of 178 to 192 degrees Fahren- 
eit during a period of 10 or 12 hours; will not gelatinize; needs 
only to settle; an excellent glue. 

Fireproof Glue. —Take the best glue; pour on water to 
cover; soak over night; melt over a gentle heat, and add fine 
Paris white, or white lead: mix well, and add a little acetic acid, 
carbolic acid or any ethereal oil to prevent putrefaction; adapted 
for flexible objects like leather; will not withstand boiling water. 

Fire anti Waterproof Glue.— Mix a handful of quick-lime 
with 4 ounces of linseed oil; thoroughly lixiviate the mixture; 
boil it to a good thickness, and spread it on tin plates in the 
shade; it will become very hard, but can be dissolved over a fire, 
like common glue, and is then fit for use. 

Glue for Damp Places.— Take the best and strongest glue 
enough to make a pint when melted. Soak this until soft. Pour 
off the water as in ordinary glue making and add a little water 
if the glue is likely to be too thick. When melted, add 3 table¬ 
spoonfuls of boiled linseed oil. Stir frequently and keep up the 
heat until the oil disappears, which may take the whole day and 
perhaps more. If necessary add water to make up for that lost 
by evaporation. When no more oil is seen, a tablespoonful of 
w r hiting is added and thoroughly incorporated with the glue. 

Labeling- on Metal or Glass.— Good yellow glue, broken 
into small pieces; soak a few hours in cold water; pour off the 
water; place the glue in a wide-mouthed bottle; add sufficient 
glacial acetic acid to cover the glue; facilitate solution by plac¬ 
ing the bottle in warm water; will stick anything; a little chlor¬ 
ide of calcium added to glue will prevent cracking, and cause it 
to adhere to anything, metal, glass, etc. 

Liquid Glue.—1. To 1 ounce of borax in 1 pint of boiling 
water, add 2 ounces of shellac, and boil until the shellac is dis¬ 
solved. 2. Dissolve 1 pound best glue in 1)4 pints of water, add 
1 pint of vinegar; ready for use at any time without warming. 

Liquid Glues.— Dissolve 33 parts best (Buffalo) glue on the 
steam bath in a porcelain vessel, in 3G parts of water. Then 
add gradually, stirring constantly, 3 parts of aqua fortis, or as 
much as is sufficient to prevent the glue from hardening when 
cool. Or, dissolve 1 part of powdered alum in 120 parts of wa¬ 
ter, add 120 parts.of glue, 10 parts of acetic acid and 40 parts of 
alcohol, and digest. 

Leather Cement.—1. Take gutta percha, cut in chloroform 
to right consistency for use. Equal to Cook’s best, for putting 
patches on leather, cloth shoes or boots. 2. Rubber 1 ounce, 
pack tightly as possible in a bottle and cover it with bisulphate 
of carbon. When the rubber is dissolved you will have the best 
cement in the w r orld. There is a fortune in this to an energetic 
man, as it sells at 25 cents a dram and costs but little to make 



















































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bil 


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DEPARTMENT V. 


it. This is the cement used by shoemakers to put invisible 
patches on shoes. 

Mineral Glue for Geologists and Mineralogists.— 

Take 2 ounces clear gum arabic, 1 ounces of fine starch, and y 2 
ounce white sugar; pulverize the gum arabic, and dissolve it in 
as much water as the laundress would use for the quantity of 
starch indicated; dissolve the starch and sugar in the gum solu¬ 
tion; then cook the mixture in a vessel suspended in boiling wa¬ 
ter until the starch becomes clear. The cement should be as 
thick as tar and kept so. It can be kept from spoiling by drop¬ 
ping in a lump of gum camphor or a little oil of cloves or sassa¬ 
fras. This cement is very strong indeed, and will stick perfectly 
to glazed surfaces, and is good to repair broken rocks, minerals, 
or fossils. The addition of a small amount of sulphate of alumi¬ 
num will increase the effectiveness of the paste, besides helping 
to prevent decomposition. 


Marine Glwe.l— . This is probably the strongest cement 
known. When well made and properly applied it will unite wood,, 
metal, glass, leather, etc., with a strength that is remarkable. 
Dissolve 3 parts shellac and 1 part india rubber in separate ves¬ 
sels in ether free from alcohol, applying a gentle heat; when dis¬ 
solved mix the 2 solutions. Use rectified sulphuric ether and un¬ 
vulcanized rubber. It is well to cut the rubber into small pieces 
before pouring the ether on; stir while melting. This glue re¬ 
sists water, hot or cold, and most acids. If thinned with ether 
and appied as a varnish to leather along the seams it renders it 
water-tight. 2 . Finely divided india rubber 1 part, dissolved in 
crude naphtha 40 parts The solution is complete in 10 or 12 days 
if repeatedly agitated. To it is then added gum lac 2 parts by 
weight to 1 of solution. Then place over a fire and thin until 
perfectly liquid and even. Cool on a stone slab and break into 
pieces for use. To use, heat to 212 o Fahrenheit and .coat the 
edges to be joined with a thin coating, pressing firmly together. 
It is valuable in foundries,caulking ships, joining blocks of mar¬ 
ble and granite, uniting wood to iron, etc. Can be made as hard 
as desired by increasing the lac. 3 . Dissolve 4 parts india rub¬ 
ber in 34 parts coal tar naphtha—aiding the solution with heat 
and agitation; add to it 64 parts powdered shellac, which must 
be heated in the mixture till the whole is dissolved. While the 
mixture is hot it is poured upon metal plates in sheets like 
leather. When required for use, it is heated in a pot till soft, 
and then applied with a brush to the surfaces to be joined. Two 
pieces of wood joined with this glue can scarcely be sundered. 



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Metal.— (See Labeling.) 


Mouth or Lip Glue.— (See Portable Glue).—Take isinglass 
and parchment, each 1 ounce, sugar candy and gum tragacanth 
each 2 drams: add to them 1 ounce water, and boil the whole to¬ 
gether till the mixture appears (when cold) of the consistency of 
glue; then pour it into any form you please. If this glue be wet 
with the tongue aud rubbed on the edges of the paper, silk or 













































ALL TRADES. 


175 


leather that are to be cemented they will, on being laid together, 
pressed tightly, and suffered to dry, be as firmly united as other 
parts of the subtance. It is fine to seal letters. 

Portable Glue.— Useful for repairing book-bindings, leather 
goods, bank bills, parchments, etc. To use, hold over steam a 
moment or wet with the tongue and rub on the surfaces to be ce 
mented. It is of great strength. Prepare as follows: White shell 
glue 2 pounds: boil and strain until clear; then boil 8 ounces of 
Cooper’s isinglass to a creamy consistency; mix the 2 substances 
while hot in a clean double glue pot; add 1 pound good brown 
sugar to the mass, and boil, stirring until thick: pour off into 
shallow pans when nearly cold; cut in pieces for the desk or the 
pocket. This is a valuable recipe. Try it. 

Parchment Glue.— Parchment shavings 1 pound, water 6 
quarts; boil until dissolved; then strain and evaporate to the 
proper consistency. Use a water bath if wanted light colored. 

Prepared Liquid Glue.— Take of best white glue 16 ounces, 
white lead, dry, 4 ounces, rain water 2 pints, alcohol 4 ounces; 
with constant stirring dissolve the glue and lead in the water by 
means of a water bath; add the alcohol and continue the heat 
for a few minutes. Lastly pour into bottles while it is still hot. 

Rubber Glue.— Bottle india rubber dissolved in highly recti¬ 
fied spirits of turpentine. 

Spalding's Liquid Glue.— One pound fine isinglass and 1 
pint rain water; boil and prepare an ordinary glue, then add 
slowly stirring continually, 2 ounces nitric acid; bottle, and it is 
fit for use. It will permanently adhere to wood, leather, paper, 
and everything else. 

To Fasten Rubber to Wood or Metal.— As rubber plates 
and rings are nowadays used almost exclusively for making con¬ 
nections between steam and other pipes and apparatus, much 
annoyance is often experienced by the impossibility or imper¬ 
fection of an air-tight connection. This is obviated entirely by 
employing a cement which fastens alike well to the rubber and 
to the metal or wood. Such cement is prepared by a solution of 
shellac in ammonia. This is best made by soaking pulverized 
gum shellac in 10 times its weight of strong ammonia, when a 
slimy mass is obtained, which in 3 or 4 weeks will become liquid 
without the use of hot water. This softens the rubber and be¬ 
comes, after volatilization of the ammonia, hard and impermea¬ 
ble to gases and fluids. 

To Fasten Paper to Tin.— Take good, clear, pale yellow 
glue, break it into rather small pieces, and let it soak a few hours 
in cold water; pour off the supernatant water, place the glue 
thus softened in a wide-mouthed bottle; add sufficient glacial 
acid to cover the glue, and facilitate the solution by standing 
the bottle in warm water. This acetic will stick almost any¬ 
thing. e 

"Waterproof Glue.— Soak glue in water until it is soft, but 
































































DEPARTMENT Y. 


176 

still retains its form: then put it into raw linseed oil and apply 
a gentle heat until it is dissolved by the oil. Use like ordinary 
glue. It soon dries and water has no effect upon it 


CEMENTS. 


BUILDING. 

Coir crete. Gravel.— To 8 barrows slaked lime, well deluged 
with water, add 15 barrows sand, do not use river or beach sand, 
as this absorbs dampness; mix to a creamy consistency and add 60 
barrows coarse gravel; work well. You can throw stones of 
any shape into this mixture, from 9 to 10 inches in diameter, 
and it will soon grow as hard as rock. _ , 

External, For the Outside of Buildings.-- 1 . Powdered 
quicklime 1 part, powdered baked clay 2 parts; mix; then add 1 
part freshly baked and powdered gypsum to 2 parts powdered 
baked clay; after mixing, add them to the former powder and 
incorporate the two; mixed with water and apply like mortal’. 
2. Sand 1 part, ashes 2 parts, clay 2 parts; mix with linseed 
oil; hard and durable, and resists the weather almost like 
marble. 

Fireproof.— Used for walls and to mend broken pieces of 
stone, steps, etc. Fine river sand 20 parts, lithai’ge 2 parts, 
quicklime 1 part, linseed oil sufficient to form a thin paste. 

Floor Cements.— Take % lime and coal ashes well sifted 
with a small quantity of loamy clay; mix the whole together; 
temper with water, making it into a heap; let it lie a week or 10 
days, and temper it again; heap it up for 3 or 4 days, repeating 
the tempering until it becomes smooth and gluey; the floor be¬ 
ing leveled, apply with a trowfel 2 1 / 2 to 3 inches thick: the hotter 
the atmosphere the better. 

Mortar, To Make.— Reduce quicklime and sand to a paste 
with water; the lime pui'e, fi’ee from carbonic acid, and in fine 
powder; the sand free from clay (partly fixxe sand and partly 
gravel); the water pure and, if previously saturated with lime, 
the better. The proportions are 3 parts fine and 4 parts coarse 
sand, 1 part quicklime, recently slaked, and as little water as 
possible. The addition of burnt bones, hair, etc., improves mor¬ 
tar by giving it tenacity, but should not exceed % of the lime em¬ 
ployed. Black mortar is made by mixing with lampblack. 

Portlaml Cement.— Gray chalk mixed with 14 its weight of 
clay in a pug-mill supplied with warm water, and runoff into a 
settling pond, where the superfluous water is removed. The sed¬ 
iment is (Tried on a floor provided with flues, then burnt in a kiln 
and ground between millstones. 
























































ADD trades. 


177 


Roofing- Cement.— Melt together in an iron pot 2 parts by 
weight of common pitch and 1 part gutta-percha. This is easily 
applied. To repair gutters, roofs, etc., clean out of the cracks all 
earthy matter, warm the edges with a plumber’s soldering iron, 
then pour the cement upon the cracks hot; finish by going over 
the cement with a moderately hot iron, so as to make a smooth 
joint. 

Wall Finish.— (For coating walls of rooms.) A coat of oxide 
of zinc mixed with size is first applied, and over that a coat of 
chloride of zinc prepai-ed as the first. The oxide and chloride 
form a combination and make a cement as smooth as glass. 
Claimed to be superior to plaster of paris. 2. Slack 1 peck of 
lime, and while hot and thick like cream, add 1 pint linseed oil 
pound dissolved glue; let it stand y 2 day before using. For 
interior walls this is superior to lime and water. 

Water-Proof and Fire-Proof Cement for Roofs of 
Houses. —Slack stone lime in a large tub or barrel with boiling 
water, covering the tub or barrel to keep in the steam. When 
thus slacked pass 6 quarts through a fine sieve. It will then b«. 
in a state of fine flour. To this add 1 quart rock salt and I gal- 
Ion of water; boil the mixture and skim it clean. To every 5 
gallons of this skimmed mixture add 1 pound of alum and y 2 
pound copperas; by slow degrees add % pound potash and 4 
quarts fine sand or wood ashes sifted. Both of the above will ad¬ 
mit of any coloring you please. It looks better than paint and is 
as durable as slate. 


MISCELLANEOUS BUILDERS’ CEMENTS. 

Cement for Terraces, Floors, Roofs, Reservoirs, etc. 

—In certain localities where a limestone impregnated with bitu¬ 
men occurs, it is dried, ground, sifted, and then mixed with 
about its own weight of melted pitch, either mineral, vegetable, 
or that of cold tar. When this mixture is getting semifluid, it 
may be moulded into large slabs or tiles in wooden frames lined 
with sheet iron, previously smeared over with common lime 
mortar, in order to prevent adhesion to the moulds, which, being 
in moveable pieces, are easily dismounted so as to turn out the 
cake of artificial bituminous stone. This cement is manufac¬ 
tured upon a great scale in many places, and used for making 
Italian terraces, covering the floors of balconies, flat roofs, 
water reservoirs, water conduits, &c. When laid down, the 
joints must be well run together with hot irons. The floor of 
the terrace should be previously covered with a layer of Paris 
plaster or common mortar, nearly an inch thick, with a regular 
slope of one inch to the yard. Such bituminous cement weighs 
144 pounds the cubic foot; or a foot of square surface, one inch 
thick, weighs 12 pounds. Sometimes a second layer of these 
slabs or tiles is applied over the first, with the precaution of 
making the seams or joints of the upper correspond with the 























































178 


DEPARTMENT V. 


middle of the tinder ones. Occasionally a bottom bed, of coarse 
cloth or gray paper, is applied. The larger the slabs are made, 
as far as they can be conveniently transported and laid down, so 
much the better. 

Mastic Cement for Covering the Fronts of Houses. 

—Fifty parts, by measure, of clean dry sand, fifty of limestone 
(not burned) reduced to grains like sand, or marble dust, and 10 
parts of red lead, mixed with as much boiled linseed oil, as will 
make it slightly moist. The brick, to receive it, should be cov¬ 
ered with three coats of boiled oil, laid on with a brush, and 
suffered to dry, before the mastic is put on. It is laid on 
with a trowel like plaster, but it is not so moist. It becomes 
hard as stone in a few months. Care must be exercised not to 
use too much oil. 

Cement for Outside Brick Walls.— Cement for the out¬ 
side of brick walls, to imitate stone, is made of clean sand 90 
parts, litharge 5 parts, plaster of Paris 5 parts, moistened with 
boiled linseed oil. The bricks should receive two or three coats 
of oil before the cement is applied. 

Cement for Coating the Fronts of Buildings.— The 

cement of dihl for coating the fronts of buildings consists of 
linseed oil, rendered dry by boiling with litharge, and mixed 
with porcelain clay in fine powder, to give it the consistence of 
stiff mortar. Pipe-clay would answer equally well if well dried, 
and any color might be given with ground bricks, or pottery. A 
little oil of turpentine to thin this cement aids its cohesion upon 
stone, brick or wood. It has been applied to sheets of wire 
cloth, and in this state laid upon terraces, in order to make them 
water tight; but it is a little less expensive than lead. 

Cement for Steps and Brick Walls. —A cement which 
gradually indurates to a stony consistence, may be made by 
mixing twenty parts of clean river sand, two of litharge, and 
one of quicklime, into a thin putty with linseed oil. The quick¬ 
lime may be replaced with litharge. When this cement is 
applied to mend broken pieces of stone, as steps of stairs, it 
acquires after some time a stony hardness. A similar composi¬ 
tion has been applied to coat over brick walls, under the name 
of mastic. 

A Hard Cement for Seams. —An excellent cement for 
seams m tbe roofs'of houses, or for any other exposed places, is 
made with white lead, dry white sand, and as much oil as will 
make it into the consistency of putty. This cement gets as hard 
as stone in a few weeks. It is a good cement for filling up cracks 
m exposed parts of brick buildings; and for pointing up the 
base of chimneys, where they project through the roofs of 
shingled houses. 

Another Good Cement.— Dissolve 1 pound of alum in 
boiling water, and while it is boiling add 5 pounds of brown 
soap, cut into small pieces; boil the mixture about 15 minutes. 
It then becomes sticky like shoemaker’s wax. Now mix it with 



























































ALT. trades 


a iSi 


179 


whiting 

becomes 




v 


W 






'a 








to a proper consistency for filling up seams, &c. It 
partially hard after a few months, and strongly 
adheres to wood. The wood should be perfectly dry. To make 
it adhere it must be well pressed down. When dry it is imper¬ 
vious to water, and is slightly elastic. 

Cement for Tile-Roofs.— The best cement for closing up 
seams in tile-roofs is composed of equal parts of whiting and 
dry sand and 25 per cent, of litharge, made into the consistency 
of putty with linseed oil. It is not liable to crack when cold, nor 
melt, like coal-tar and asphalt, with the heat of the sun. 

Coarse Stuff.— Coarse stuff, or lime and hair, as it is some¬ 
times called, is prepared in the same way as common mortar, 
with the addition of hair procured from the tanner, which must 
be well mixed with the mortar by means of a three-pronged 
rake, until the hair is equally distributed throughout the com¬ 
position. The mortar should be first formed, and when the lime 
and sand have been thoroughly mixed, the hair should be added 
by degrees, and the whole so thoroughly united, that the hair 
shall appear to be equally distributed throughout. 

Parker’s Cement..— This cement, which is perhaps the best 
of all others for stucco, as it is not subject to crack or flake off. 
is now very commonly used, and is formed by burning argillace¬ 
ous clay in the same manner that lime is made. It is then re¬ 
duced to powder. The cement, as used by the plasterer, is some¬ 
times employed alone, and sometimes it is mixed with sharp 
sand; and it has then the appearance, and almost the strength 
of stone. As it is impervious to water, it is very proper for lin¬ 
ing tanks and cisterns. 

Hamelein’s Cement. —This cement consists of earthy and 
other substances insoluble in water, or nearly so; and these may 
be either those which are in their natural state, or have been 
manufactured, such as earthenware and china; those being al¬ 
ways preferred which are least soluble in water, and have the 
least color. When these are pulverized, some oxide of lead is 
added, such as litharge, gray oxide, or minium, reduced to a fine 
powder; and to the compound is added a quantity of pulverized 
glass or flint stones, the whole being thoroughly mixed and 
made into a proper consistence with some vegetable oil, as that 
of linseed. This makes a durable stucco or plaster, that is im¬ 
pervious to wet, and has the appearance of stone. The propor¬ 
tion of the several ingredients is as follows: To every 560 
pounds of earth, or earths, such as pit sand, river sand, rock 
sand, pulverized earthenware or porcelain, add 40 pounds of 
litharge, 2 pounds of pulverized glass or flint, 1 pound of minium 
and 2 pounds of gray oxide of lead. Mix the whole together and 
sift it through sieves of different degrees of fineness, according 
to the purposes to which the cement is to be applied. The fol¬ 
lowing is the method of using it: To every 30 pounds of the 
cement in powder, add about 1 quart of oil, either linseed, wal¬ 
nut, or some other vegetable oil, and mix it in the same manner 




'I 









Rf 






V 





















































as any other mortar, pressing it gently together either by tread¬ 
ing on it, or with the trowel; it has then the appearance of 
moistened sand, Care must also be taken that no more is mixed 
at one time than is required for use. as it soon hardens into a 
solid mass. Before the cement is applied, the face of the wall to 
be plastered should be brushed over with oil, particularly if it 
be applied to brick, or any other substance that quickly imbibes 
the oil; if to wood, lead, or any other substance of a similar 
nature, less oil may be used. v 

Plaster in Imitation of Marble, Scag-liola. —This 

species ol work is exquisitely beautiful when done with taste and 
judgment, and is so like marble to the touch, as well as appear¬ 
ance, that it is scarcely possible to distinguish the one from the 
other. We shall endeavor to explain its composition, and the 
manner in which it is applied; but so much depends upon the 
woxkman’s execution, that it is impossible for anyone to succeed 
in an attempt to work with it without some practical experi¬ 
ence. Procure some of the purest gypsum, and calcine it until 
the large masses have lost the brilliant, sparkling appearance by 
which they are characterized, and the whole mass appears uni¬ 
formly opaque. This calcined gypsum is reduced to powder, and 
passed through a very fine sieve, and mixed up, as it is wanted 
for use, with glue, isinglass, or some other material of the same 
kind. This solution is colored with the tint required for the 
scagliola, but when a marble of various colors is to be imitated, 
the several colored compositions required by the artist must be 
placed in separate vessels, and they are then mingled together in 
nearly the manner that the painter mixes his color on the pallet. 
Having the wall or column papered with rough plaster, it is 
covered with the composition, and the colors intended to imitate 
the marble, of whatever kind it may be. are applied when the 
floating is going on. It now only remains to polish the work, 
which, as soon as the composition is hard enough, is done by 
rubbing it with pumic-stone, the work being kept wet with 
water applied by a sponge. It is then polished with Tripoli and 
charcoal, w r ith a piece of fine linen, and finished with a piece of 
felt, dipped in a mixture of oil and Tripoli, and afterwards with 
pure oil. 

Maltlia, or Greek Mastic.— This is made by mixing lime 
and sand in the manner of mortar, and making it into a proper 
consistency with milk or size, instead of water. 

Fine Stutr.— This is made by slacking lime with a small por¬ 
tion of water, after which so much water is added as to give it 
the consistence of cream. It is then allowed to settle for some 
time, and the superfluous water is poured off, and the sediment 
is suffered to remain till evaporation reduces it to a proper 
thickness for use. For some kinds of work, it is necessary to add 
a small portion of hair. 

Stucco for Inside of Walls.— This stucco consists of fine 
stuff already described, and a portion of tine washed sand, in the 



























































ALT, TRADES. 


181 


proportion of 1 of sand to 3 of tine stuff. Those parts of interior 
walls are finished with this stucco which are intended to be 
painted. In using this material, great care must be taken that 
the surface is perfectly level, and to secure this it must be well 
worked with a floating tool or wooden trowel. This is done by 
sprinkling a little water occasionally on the stucco, and rubbing 
it in a circular direction with the float, till the surface has at¬ 
tained a high gloss. The durability of the work very much de¬ 
pends upon the care with which this process is done; for if it be 
not thoroughly worked, it is apt to crack. 

Higgins’ Stucco, —To 15 pounds of the best stone lime, add 
14 pounds of bone ashes, finely powdered, and about 95 pounds 
of clean, washed sand, quite dry, either coarse or fine, according 
to the nature of the work in hand. These ingredients must be 
intimately mixed, and kept from the air till wanted. When re¬ 
quired for use, it must be mixed up into a proper consistence for 
wonting with lime water, and used as speedily as possible. 

Gauge Stuff .— 1 This is chiefly used for moldings and cornices 
which are run or formed with a wooden mold. It consists of 
about 1-5 of plaster of paris. mixed gradually with 4-5 of fine 
stuff. When the work is required to set very expeditiously, the 
proportion of plaster of paris is increased, it is often necessary 
that the plaster to be used should have the property of setting 
immediately it is laid on, and in all such cases gauge stuff is 
used, and consequently it is extensively employed for cementing 
ornaments to walls or ceilings, as well as for casting the orna¬ 
ments themselves. 

I 

Composition.— This is frequently used, instead of plaster of 
paris, for the ornamental parts of buildings, as it is more dura¬ 
ble, and becomes in time as hard as stone itself. It is of great 
use in the execution ot the decorative parts of architecture, and 
also in the finishings of picture frames, being a cheaper method 
than carving by nearly 80 per cent. It is made as follows: Two 
pounds of the best whitening, 1 pound of glue, ana % pound of 
linseed oil are heated together, the composition being constantly 
stirred until the different substances are thoroughly incorpor¬ 
ated. Let the compound cool, and then lay it on a stone covered 
with powdered whitening, and heat it well until it becomes of a 
tough and firm consistence. It may then be put by for use. cov¬ 
ered with wet cloths to keep it fresh. When wanted for use, it 
must be cut into pieces, adapted to the size of the mold, into 
which it is forced by a screw press. The ornament, or cornice, 
is fixed to the frame or wall with glue or with white lead. 

Foundations of Buildings.— The nature and condition of 
the soil upon which houses are to be built should receive far 
more attention than is usually bestowed upon such subjects. A 
soil which is spongy and damp, or contains much loose organic 
matter, is generally unhealthy; whereas a dry, porous soil af¬ 
fords a healthy site for buildings. Wherever we find a soil de¬ 
ficient in gravel or sand, or where gravel and sand-beds are un- 





















































182 


DEPARTMENT V. 


derlaid with clay, there should be a thorough sub-soil drainage, 
because the clay retains the water, and a house built in such a 
spot would otherwise always be damp and unhealthy. When 
the sub-soil is swampy, which is the case with many portions of 
various cities that have been filled in with what is called made 
earth, fever is liable to prevail in houses built in such localities, 
owing to the decay of organic matter underneath, and its ascen¬ 
sion in the form of gas through the soil. When good drainage 
cannot be effected in such situations, and it is found necessary to 
build houses on them, they should all have solid floors of con¬ 
crete, laid from the outside of the foundations and covering the 
whole area over which the structure is erected. These floors tend 
to prevent dampness in houses, consequently they are more com¬ 
fortable and healthy than they otherwise would be. Such floors 
also tend to prevent the cracking of the walls, owing to the solid¬ 
ity and firmness imparted to their foundations. 

Concrete Floors.— The lower floors of all the cellars of houses 
should be composed of a bed of concrete about 3 inches thick. 
This would tend to render them dry, and more healthy, and at 
the same time prevent rats from burrowing under the walls on 
the outside, and coming up under the floor—the method pursued 
by these vermin where houses are erected on a sandy soil. This 
concrete should be made of washed gravel and hydraulic cement. 
Common mortar mixed with pounded brick and washed gravel, 
makes a cement for floors nearly as good as that formed with 
hydraulic cement. Such floors become very hard, and are much 
cheaper than those of brick or flagstone. 

Fireproof Composition to Resist Fire for Five 
Hours.— Dissolve, in cold water, as much pearlash as it is ca- 

E able of holding in solution, and wash or daub with it all the 
oards, wainscoting, timber, etc. Then diluting the same liquid 
with a little water, add to it such a portion of fine yellow clay as 
will make the mixture the same consistence as common paint; 
stir in a small quantity of paperhanger's flour paste to combine 
both the other substances. Give 3 coats of this mixture. When 
dry, apply the following mixture: Put into a pot equal quanti¬ 
ties of finely pulverized iron filings, brick dust and ashes; pour 
over them size or glue water; set the whole near a fire, and when 
warm stir them well together. With this liquid composition, or 
size, give the wood 1 coat, and on its getting dry, give it a second 
coat. It resists fire for 5 hours, and prevents the wood from ever 
bursting into flames. It resists the ravages of fire, so as only to 
be reduced to coal or embers, without spreading the conflagra¬ 
tion by additional flames; by which 5 clear hours are gained in 
removing valuable effects to a place of safety, as well as rescu¬ 
ing the lives of all the family from danger I Furniture, chairs, 
tables, etc., particularly staircases, may be so protected. Twen¬ 
ty pounds of finely sifted yellow clay, 1 *4 pounds of flour for 
making the paste, and 1 pound of pearlash, are sufficient to pre¬ 
pare a square rood of deal-boards. 





[(£ 





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ALT, TRADES. 

CEflENTS FOR OTHER PURPOSES. 


182 


Note.—( See also Glues). 

Acid Proof.— Resin 6 pounds; dried red ochre, 1 pound; cal¬ 
cined plaster of Paris, y 2 pound; linseed oil, H pound. Incorpo¬ 
rate by stirring together when melted. Used for cementing 
troughs for holding acids. Will stand boiling sulphuric acid. 

Alabaster.— Used to join or mend alabaster, marble and 
other stone of similar character, and to fill up cracks, supply 
chips out of corners, etc. Apply hot, the surfaces having been 
previously warmed. 1. Yellow resin, 2 parts; melt and stir in 
plaster of paris, 1 part. 2. Yellow resin, beeswax and plaster 
of paris, equal parts. 3. Resin, 8 parts; wax, 1 part; melt and 
stir in plaster of paris, 4 parts. 

Aquarium Cement.— Used for the marine as well as the 
fresh water aquaria, as it resists the action of salt water. 1 gill 
of litharge: 1 gill plaster of paris: 1 gill dry white sand; M gill 
finely powdered resin. Sift, and keep corked tight until required 
for use, when it is made into a putty by mixing in boiling lin¬ 
seed oil with a little drying fluid combined. Never use it after 
it has been mixed with the oil over 15 hours. The tank can be 
used immediately, but it is better to give it 3 or 4 hours to dry. 

Bucklands.— Used for all the purposes of mucilage and as a 
cement for labels. It does not become brittle or crack. White 
sugar, 1 ounce: starch, 3 ounces; gum Arabic, 4 ounces; all to 
be separately reduced to a fine powder and mixed together in a 
dry mortar, then little by little add cold water until of the thick¬ 
ness of melted glue, then put in a wide mouth bottle and cork 
close. 

Chinese. —For mending china, glass and fancy ornaments. 
Dissolve shellac in enough rectified spirits to make a liquid the 
consistency of molasses. This will join wood so strongly that 
it will resist the flexion of a bow. The fluid is thinly smeared 
over each face to be united. 

Coppersmiths. —Used to secure the edges and rivets of cop¬ 
per boilers, to mend leaks from joints, etc. Bullock’s blood, 
thickened with finely powdered quicklime. It must be used as 
quick as mixed, as it soon becomes hard. Is extremely durable 
and cheap. 

Druggists. —Used for cementing stoppers. Litharge, finely 
powdered, and concentrated glycerine, painted around the cork 
or stopper. Quickly dries and becomes hard, but may be easily 
scraped off when necessary to open the bottle. 

Biamoml Cement.— Used to unite bits of glass, polished 
steel, and for cementing precious stones on jewelry. 1. Dissolve 
5 or 6 bits of gum mastic, each the size of a large pea in as 
much rectified alcohol as will render it liquid; and in another 
vessel dissolve as much isinglass, previously softened in water 
(although none of the water must be used), in French brandy or 










































mmtm 








if 



184 


DEPARTMENT V. 


good rum, as will make a 2-ounce vial of strong glue, adding 2 
small bits of gum galbanum or ammoniacum, which must be 
dissolved. Mix the whole with sufficient heat and fill vial which 
must be closely stopped. When used, set the vial in boiling 
water. 2. Isinglass, 6 ounces: gum mastic and olibanum, each 
~ ounces; pure water, 9 ounces; rectified spirits of wine 12 
ounces; dissolve the isinglass in the water, then stir in the mas- 
t.ic, previously dissolved in the spirits of wine, and lastly, stir in 
the olibanum in the state of a fine powder. 

*1 **'®* , A g°? d cement is made by dissolving 
gum shellac in alcohol, apply the solution, bind the parts to- 

quicHimtf ^ ry ‘ e &£' thickened with powdered 

Elastic. (See Glues , Cements for Uniting Leather, etc.) 

10 re j° in tlie dislocated parts of in¬ 
sects, etc. To a solution of gum-ammoniac in proof spirits add 
best isinglass, and unite with gentle heat. Valuable. 1 

« TTseci by naturalists in mounting specimens; by arti¬ 

ficial flower makers, and by confectioners, to stick wafers, orna- 
naments, etc., on cakes. Mix thick mucilage of gum Arabic with 
powdered starch. A little lemon juice is sometimes added. 

Glass Cements.— 1. Pulverized glass, 10 parts: powdered 
fluor spar, 20 parts; soluble silicate of soda, 60 parts. Both 
J \? d flu 9 r s P ar must be in the finest powder. The mixture 
must be made by quick stirring, and when incorporated must 
be used at once. 2. Used for mending valuable artieffis in gTass 
°! Sf at . ine > to which is added for every 5 
parts gelatine, 1 part solution acid chromate of lime. The mix¬ 
ture becomes insoluble. in water under the action of lightf in 
f?Jl! qUence ^ the partial reduction of the chromic acid; with a 
r , eS ^fF aratl ° n Ti the solution , cover the surfaces to be united 
uosp P resst ^ em together and tie them. Ex¬ 

po®® the glass to the sun a few hours. Boiling water has no 

recognized 6 oxydlzed cement > and the fracture can scarcely be 
Glycerine.— (See Druggists' Cement). 

“ Tomend Iron” in Household Miscellany). 5 parts 

?eed olf a whL P n rt iro ? m \ n £ s > mixed into a paste with Tim 
^ hen hard 11 resists heat, but is not good for mending 
cracks in stoves, as it will crack under the red heat. ** 

while gfiie in"?? ^ 0l Y e 1 P ar * of isil) g la «« and 2 parts of 

S , fA 11*} paits of water; strain, and evaporate to 6 parts; 

1 mrt nf wh ft a Ifn m mastic dissolved in y 2 part of alcohol, and 

is P efal?oTormortei-of h pe*! qUlre<i fOT use ' warm ana shake 

Japanese.— This elegant cement is made by mixing rice flour 
mtimateiy with cold water, and then gently boning. itSuSd 
by the Japanese in the manufacture of all their works in paner 
and laquer, and from it many handsome articles can be 


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pMKTqif J UH 


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ALL TRADES. 185 

when dry, the articles made from it are susceptible of a high pol¬ 
ish and are durable. 

Jeweler’s. —(See Diamond Cement.) 1. Dissolve 5 or 6 pieces 
gum mastic the size of a pea in just as much methylated spirits 
as will make it liquid; soften isinglass by steeping in water; 
having dried it, dissolve in as much good brandy as will make a 
2-ounce vial of strong glue, to which add 2 small pieces of gum 
ammoniacum; mix the two and keep closely corked. Set the 
vial in boiling water before using. 

Lamp Cement. —This is used for cementing the tops on 
kerosene lamps. One part caustic soda 5 parts water; mix with 
34 the weight of plaster of paris. 

Leather Cements.— {See Glues.) 

Leather to Rubber.— Used for uniting sheet rubber or 
gutta percha to leather, soles of shoes, etc. Gutta percha 50 
pounds, Venice turpentine 40 pounds, shellac 4 pounds, caout¬ 
chouc 1 pound, liquid storax 5 pounds. The Venice turpentine 
should first be heated; then the gutta percha and shellac added; 
when dissolved add the others; stir well and do not burn. 

Leather to Metal.— Fifty-six pounds good glue; melt and 
add 314 pounds gum ammoniac; stir well till reduced to an even 
mass: remove from the fire and pour in gradually 314 pounds 
nitric acid, and incorporate with the rest. This has been proven 
the best among metal binders, as it is not susceptible to the 
action of oil. 

Metal to Fibrous Material.— A preparation made of good 
glue dissolved in hot vinegar with 34 its volume of white pine 
pitch, also hot, is said will give sure results with any metal. 

Metal to Glass.— Take 1 pound shellac dissolved in 1 pint of 
strong methylated spirits, to which is added 1-5 part of solution 
of India rubber in carbon bisulphide. 

Microscopic.— Used for mounting opaque objects for the 
microscope. Put into a bottle 2 parts isinglass and 1 part gum 
arabic; cover with proof spirits; cork the bottle loosely and 
place in water and boil till a solution is effected; strain for use. 

Opticians.— 1 . Shellac softened with rectified spirits or wood 
naphtha. For fine work. 2. Beeswax 1 ounce, resin 15 ounces; 
melt and add whiting (previously made red hot and still warm) 
4 ounces. 

Rubber Cemenf.-(&« Glues.) Used for uniting leather or 
rubber that has not been vulcanized. Sixteen parts gutta percha, 
4 parts India rubber. 2 parts common caulker’s pitch, 1 part 
linseed oil; melt together; use hot. 

Safety Envelope.— To be used in two portions, neither of 
which is of any value without the other, makes it an impossi¬ 
bility to open letters or separate paper when each is moistened 
and applied to the other. 1. This is composed of a preparation 
of chromium, and is made by dissolving crystalized chromic 
































































DEPARTMENT V. 

acid in water, the proportions being 2-5 grams of acid to 15 grams 
of water; 15 grams of ammonia are added to this, then 10 drops 
sulphuric acid: finally 30 grains sulphate of ammonia and 4 
grams white paper. 2. Dissolve 1 part acetic acid, 7 parts of 
water; dissolve in this a quantity of isinglass. Apply No. 1 to 
the envelope and No. 2 to the place where it unites with the 
paper. 

Universal Cement. — Used for cementing wood, iron, 
leather, glass, paper and almost all kinds of household articles 
Best isinglass, A ounce. Rub it between the hands until it 
oreaks into a powder. Put in a bottle and put as much acetic 
acid to it as will wet the mass through. Stand the bottle in 
some boiling water and the paste will dissolve and be ready for 
Use. It will be solid when cold, but can be easily warmed to a 
state of liquidity. Leave the cork out when warming, as there 
is danger of bursting the bottle. 

Cements of various kinds should be kept for occasional use. 
Flour paste answers very well for slight purposes; if required 
stronger than usual, boil a little glue or put some powdered 
resin in it. White of egg, or a solution of glue and a strong gum 
water are good cements. A paste made of linseed meal dries 
very hard and adheres firmly. A soft cement is made of yellow 
wax, melted with its weight of turpentine, and a little Venetian 
red to give it color. This when cool is as hard as soap, and is 
very useful to stop up cracks, and is better to cover the corks of 
bottles than sealing wax or hard cement. The best cement foe 
broken china or glass is that sold under the name of Diamond 
Cement. It is colorless and resists moisture. This is made by 
soaking isinglass in water until it is soft, and then dissolving it 
in proof spirits; add to this a little gum ammoniac or galbannm 
or mastic, both dissolved in as little alcohol as possible. When 
the cement is to be used, it must be gently liquified by placing 
the vial containing it in boiling water. The vial must be well 
closed with a good cork, not by a glass stopper, as they become 
forced. It is applied to the broken edges by a camel's hair pen¬ 
cil. When objects are not to be exposed to the moisture, the 
white of an egg alone mixed with finely powdered quicklime, 
will answer very well. Shellac dissolved in water is better. A 
very strong cement for all earthenware is made by boiling 
slices of skim-milk cheese and water into a paste, then grinding 
the quicklime in a marble mortar, or on a slab with a mallet. 


ADDITIONAL UNCLASSIFIED CEMENTS. 

Armenian or Diamond Cement.— This article, so much 
esteemed for uniting pieces of broken glass, for repairing pre¬ 
cious stones, and for cementing them to watch cases and other 
ornaments, is made by soaking isinglass in water until it be¬ 
comes quite soft, and then mixing it with spirit in which a little 
gum mastic and ammoniacum have been dissolved. The jewel- 




















































ALL TRADES. 


18> 








ers of Turkey, who are mostly Armenians, have a singular 
method of ornamenting watch cases, etc., with diamonds and 
other precious stones, by simply glueing or cementing them on. 
The stone is set in silver or gold, and the lower part of the metal 
made flat, or to correspond with the part to which it is to be 
fixed; it is then warmed gently, and has the glue applied, which 
is so very strong that the parts so cemented never separate; this 
glue, which will strongly unite bits of glass, and even polished 
steel, and may be applied to a variety of useful purposes, is thus 
made in Turkey: Dissolve 5 or 6 bits of gum mastic, each the 
size of a large pea, in as much spirits of wine as will suffice to 
render it liquid; and in another vessel, dissolve as much isin¬ 
glass, previously a little softened in water (though none of the 
water must be used), in French brandy or good rum, as will 
make a 2-ounce vial of very strong glue.‘adding 2 small bits of 
gum albanum, or ammoniacum, which must be rubbed or 
ground till they are dissolved. Then mix the whole with a suffi¬ 
cient heat. Keep the glue in a vial closely stopped, and when it 
is to be used, set the vial in boiling water. Some persons have 
sold a composition under the name of Armenian cement, in Eng¬ 
land; but this composition is badly made; it is much too thin, 
and the quantity of mastic is much too small. The following 
•are good proportions: isinglass, soaked in water and dissolved 
m spirit, 2 ounces (thick); dissolve in this 10 grains of very pale 
£um ammoniac (in tears), by rubbing them together; then add 6 
Virge tears of gum mastic, dissolved in the least possible quan¬ 
tity of rectified spirit. Isinglass, dissolved in proof spirit, as 
above, 3 ounces; bottoms of mastic varnisl (thick but clear) 1*4 
ounces; mix well. When carefully made, this cement resists 
moisture, and dries colorless. As usually met with, it is not only 
of very bad quality, but sold at exorbitant prices. 

Cements For Mending* Earthen and Glass Ware.—1. 

Heat the article to be mended, a little above boiling water heat, 
then apply a thin coating of gum shellac, on both surfaces of 
the broken vessel, and when cold it will be as strong as it vv as 
originally. 2. Dissolve gum shellac in alcohol, apply the solu¬ 
tion, and bind the parts firmly together until the cement is per¬ 
fectly dry. 

Cement for Stoneware.— Another cement in which an 
analogous substance, the curd or caseum of milk is employed, is 
made by boiling slices of skim-milk cheese into a gluey consist¬ 
ence in a great quantity of water, and then incorporating it with 
quicklime on a slab with a muller, or in a marble mortar. When 
this compound is applied warm to broken edges of stoneware, it 
unites them very firmly after it is cold. 

Iron-Rust Cement.— The iron-rust cement is made from 50 
to 100 parts of iron borings, pounded and sifted, mixed with i 
part of sal ammoniac, and when it is to be applied moistened 
with as much water as will give it a pasty consistency. Form¬ 
erly flowers of sulphur were used, and much more sal ammoniac 
in making this cement, but with decided disadvantage, as the 













































C v — / 1- 



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imm 


188 


DEPARTMENT V. 


union is effected by oxidizement, consequent expansion and 
solidification of the iron powder, and any heterogeneous matter 
obstructs the effect. The best proportion of sal ammoniac is, I 
believe, 1 per cent of the iron borings. Another composition of 
the same kind is made by mixing 4 parts of fine borings or filings 
of iron, 2 parts of potter's clay and 1 of pounded potsherds, and 
making them into a paste with salt and water. When this ce¬ 
ment is allowed to concrete slowly on iron joints it becomes very 
hard. 

Architectural Ornaments In Relief.— For making archi¬ 
tectural ornaments in relief, a molding composition is formed 
of chalk, glue and paper paste. Even statutes have been made 
with it, the paper aiding the cohesion of t he same. 

Electrical and Chemical Apparatus Cement.— Elec¬ 
trical and chemical apparatus cement consists of 5 pounds of 
resin, 1 of beeswax. 1 of red ochre, and 2 tablespoonfuls of paris 
plaster, all melted together. A cheaper one for cementing vol¬ 
taic plates into wooden troughs is made with 6 pounds of resin, 
1 of red ochre. Vi of plaster of paris and H pound of linseed oil. 
The ochre and the plaster of paris should be calcined beforehand 
and added to the other ingredients in their melted state. The 
thinner the stratum of cement that is interposed, the stronger 
generally speaking, is the junction. 

Cement for Iron Tubes, Boilers. Etc.— Finely powdered 
iron 66 parts, sal ammoniac 1 part, water a sufficient quantity 
to form into'paste. 


Cement for Ivory, Mother of Pearl, Etc.— Dissolve 1 
part of isinglass and 2 of white glue in 80 of water, strain and 
evaporate to 6 parts. Add 1-30 part of gum mastic, dissolved in 
Vi part of alcohol, and 1 part of white zinc. When required for 
use, warm and shake up. 

Cement for Holes in Casting's.— The best cement for this 
purpose is made by mixing 1 part of sulphur in powder. 2 parts 
of sal ammoniac and 80 parts of clean powdered iron turnings, 
sufficient water must be added to make it into a thick paste, 
which should be pressed into the holes or seams which are to be 
filled up. The ingredients composing this cement should be kept 
separate, and not mixed until required for use. It is to be ap¬ 
plied cold, and the castings should not be used for 2 or 3 days 
afterwards. 

Cement for Coppersmiths ami Engineers.— Boiled lin¬ 
seed oil and red lead mixed together into a putty are often used 
by coppersmiths and engineers, to secure joints. The washers 
of leather or cloth are smeared with this mixture in a pasty 
state. 

A Cheap Cement.— Melted brimstone, either alone, or mixed 
with resin and brick dust, forms a tolerably good and very cheap 
cement. 

Clumber's Cement.— Plumber’s cement consists of black 







\U 




SPOT 'c\^ 


. 
































a j' 



ALL, TRADES. 


Uf»-\ rPc 





189 


resin 1 part, brick dust 2 parts, well incorporated by a melting 
heat. 

Cement for Bottle Corks. —The bituminous or black ce¬ 
ment for bottle corks consists of pitch hardened by the addition 
of resin and brick dust. 

Cliina Cement. —Take the curd of milk, dried and powdered. 
10 ounces: quicklime 1 ounce, camphor 2 drams. Mix, and 
keep in closely stopped bottles. When used, a portion is to be 
mixed with a little water into a paste, to be applied quickly. 

Cement for ^Leather. —A mixture of India rubber and shel¬ 
lac varnish makes a very adhesive leather cement. A strong 
solution of common isinglass, with a little diluted alcohol added 
to it, makes an excellent cement for leather. 

Marble Cement.— Take plaster of paris, and soak it in a 
saturated solution of alum, then bake the two in an oven, the 
same as gypsum is baked to make it plaster of paris; after which 
they are ground to powder. It is then used as wanted, being 
mixed up with -water like plaster and applied. It sets into a 
very hard composition capable of taking a very high polish. It 
may be mixed with various coloring minerals to produce a 
cement of any color capable of imitating marble. 

A Good Cement.— Shellac dissolved in alcohol, or in a solu¬ 
tion of borax, forms a pretty good cement. 

Cement for Marble Workers and Coppersmiths.— 

White of egg alone, or mixed with finely sifted quicklime, will 
answer for uniting objects which are not exposed to moisture. 
The latter combination is very strong, and is much employed for 
joining pieces of spar and marble ornaments. A similar com¬ 
position is used by coppersmiths to secure the edges and rivets 
of boilers; only bullock’s blood is the albuminous matter used 
instead of white of egg. 

Transparent Cement for Glass. —Dissolve 1 part of India 
rubber in 64 of chloroform, then add gum mastic in powder 16 
to 24 parts, and digest for two days with frequent shaking. 
Apply \vith a camel’s hair brush. 

Cement to Mend Iron Pots and Pans. —Take 2 parts of 
sulphur, and 1 part, by weight, of fine black lead; put the sul¬ 
phur in an old iron pan, holding it over the fire until it begins to 
melt, then add the lead; stir well until all is mixed and melted; 
then pour out on an iron plate, or smooth stone. When cool, 
break into small pieces. A sufficient quantity of this compound 
being placed upon the crack of the iron pot to be mended, can 
be soldered by a hot iron in the same way a tinsmith solders his 
sheets. If there is a small hole in the pot, drive a copper rivet 
in it and then solder over it with this cement. , 

Cement to Render Cisterns and Casks Water-Tight. 

—An excellent cement for resisting moisture is made by incor¬ 
porating thoroughly. 8 parts of melted glue, of the consistence 
used by carpenters, with 4 parts of linseed oil, boiled into var- 


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DEPARTMENT V. 








e/ 



190 


nish with litharge. This cement hardens in about 48 hours, and 
renders the joints of wooden cisterns and casks air and water 
tight. A compound of glue with V\ its weight of Venice turpen- 
tinp made as above serves to cement glass, metal and wood, to 
one another Frelh-Sle cheese curd, and old skim-milk cheese 
ooiled in water to a slimy consistence, aissolved in a solution of 
bicarbonate of potash, are said to form a good cement foi glass 
and porcelain. The gluten of wheat, well prepared, is a so a 
nood^cement. White of eggs, with flour and water well mixed, 
and smeared over linen cloth, forms a ready lute for steam 
joints in small apparatus. 

Foment for Repairing- Fractured Bodies of All 
Kinds.— White lead ground upon a slab with linseed oil var¬ 
nish and kept out of contact of air, affords a cement capable of 
repairing fractured bodies of all kinds. It requires a few weeks 
to harden When stone or iron are to be cemented together, a 
compound of equal parts of sulphur with pitch answers very 
well. 

Cements for Cracks in Wood. —Make a paste of slacked 
lime 1 part, rye-meal 2 parts, with a sufficient quantity of linseed 
oil Or dissolve 1 part of glue in 16 parts oi water, and when 
almost cool stir in sawdust and prepared chalk a sufficient quan¬ 
tity. Or, oil-varnish thickened with a mixture of equal parts of 
White lead, red lead, litharge, and chalk. 

Cement for Joining Metals and Wood.— Melt resin and 
stir in calcined plaster until reduced to a paste, to which add 
boiled oil a sufficient quantity, to bring it to the consistence of 
honey: apply warm. Or, melt resin 180 parts, and stir in burnt 
umber 30, calcined plaster 3 5, and boiled oil 8 parts. 


Gasfitters’ Cement. —Mix together, resin 4^4 parts, wax 1 
part, and Venetian red 3 parts. 

Impervious Cement for Apparatus, Corks, etc. Zinc- 

white rubbed up with copal varnish to fill up the indentures; 
when dry, to be covered with the same mass, somewhat thinnei, 
and lastly with copal varnish alone. 

Cement for Fastening Brass to Glass Vessels.— Melt 
resin 150 parts, wax 30, and add burnt ochre 30, and calcined 
plaster 2 parts Apply warm. 

Cement for Fastening Blades, Files, etc.— Shellac 2 

parts, prepared chalk 1, powdered and mixed. The opening for 
the blade is filled with this powder, the lower end of the iron 
heated and pressed in. 

Hydraulic Cement Paint.— If hydraulic cement be mixed 
with oil, it forms a first-rate anti-combustible and excellent 
waterproof paint for roofs of buildings, outhouses, walls, etc. 

Valuable Cement.— Two parts, by weight, of common 
pitch, and 1 part gutta percha, melted together in an iron ves¬ 
sel, makes a cement that holds together, with wonderful tenac- 












































ALL TRADES. 





7 d> 


ut 




ALL TRADES. 19i 

ity, wood, stone, ivory, leather, porcelain, silk, woollen, 01 cotton, 
it is well adapted to aquariums. 

Plumbers’ Cement —Black resin, 1 part; brick dust, 2 
parts; well incorporated by a melting heat. Boiled linseed oil 
and red lead mixed together into a putty are often used by cop¬ 
persmiths and engineers to secure joints; the washers of leather 
or cloth are smeared with this mixture in a pasty state. 

Cement lor Rubber or Leather.— Dissolve 1 ounce of 
gutta percha in % pound chloroform. Clean the parts to be ce¬ 
mented. cover each with the solution and let them dry 20 or 30 
minutes, warm each part in the flame of the candle, and press 
very firmly together till dry. v 

Tin Box Cement.— To fix labels to tin boxes either of the 
following v ill answer: 1. Soften good glue in water, then boil 
it in strong vinegar, and thicken the liquid while boiling with 
line wheat flour, so that a paste results. 2. Starch paste, with 
which a little Venice turpentine has been incorporated while 
warm. 

v. dement.— Mix ordinary /ed oxide of iron and 

boiled linseed oil so as to form a paint, add to every quart 1 gill 
of Japan dryer and then add equal parts of Roman water lime 
and Venetian red until the mixture is as thick as desired for the 
work to be done. This cement will be found very useful for 
flashings or for repairing leaky roofs, as it dries quickly and can 
be applied by means of a small brush to leaks on a standing 
seam roof where it would be impossible to solder. It is also 
useful for repairing cracked seams where the tin has become too 
rusty to be soldered. 

Jeweler’s Turkish Cement.— Put into a bottle 2 ounces 
of ismglass ar 1 1 ounce of the best gum Arabic; cover them 
with proof spirits, cork loosely, and place the bottle in a vessel 
of water, »nd boil it till a thorough solution is effected; then 
strain for use; best cement known. 

ventjnt for Mending- Valuable Glassware.- Mix 5 

> arts of gelatine with 1 part of a solution of acid chromate of 
,iK j . Cover the broken edges with the cement, press the parts 
Kgether and expose to sunlight. The light hardens the cement, 
which will then withstand boiling water. u 

Best Cement for Aquaria.— It is the same as that used in 
constructmer the tanks of the Zoological Gardens, London. One 
part, by measure, say a gill of litharge; 1 gill of plaster of paris; 
l gill of dry, white sand; % of a gill of finely powdered resin. 
»itt, and keep corked tight until required for use, when it is to 
be made into a putty by mixing in boiled oil (linseed) with a 
iitUe patent drier added. Never use it after it has been mixed 
(that is. with the oil) over 15 hours. This cement can be used 
for marine as well as fresh-water aquaria, as it resists the action 
of salt water. *The tank can be used immediately, but it is best 
•o give it 3 or 4 hours to dry. 











































































192 


DEPARTMENT V. 


Coppersmith’s Cement, etc. —Bullock’s blood thickened 
with hnely-powdered lime. Use as soon as mixed, as it rapidly 
gets hard. 

Liquid Cement.— Cut gum shellac into 70 per cent alcohol, 
put it in vials, and it is ready for use. Apply it to the edge of 
the broken dish with a feather, and hold it in a spirit lamp as 
long as the cement will simmer, then join together evenly, and 
when cold tne dish will break in another place first, and is as 
strong as new. 

Crystal Cement.— Dissolve 1 pound of white glue in 1*4 pints 
of hot water, then cut 1 ounce gum shellac in 1 y 2 pints alcohol, 
and mix with the glue, then stir in 2 ounces of dry white lead, 
and add 1 ounce of turpentine. This makes the best cement of 
anything that has been discovered. It will stand heat, and arti¬ 
cles will break in another place sooner than, where put together. 
This is a fortune to an enterprising man. 

Cement for Leather.— 1 . Virgin India rubber dissolved in 
bisulphide of carbon. Add bisulphide until of proper consist¬ 
ency to apply. After applying hold a moderately warm iron 
over the patch. 2. Take gutta percha, cut in chloroform to 
right consistency for use. Equal to Cook's best, for putting 
patches on leather, cloth shoes or boots. Well worth $100. 

Egyptian Cement.— For mending china, glass or wooden- 
ware. Take 1 pound of the best white glue, l A pound dry white 
:ead, 1 quart soft water, y 2 pint alcohol. Put the three first ar¬ 
ticles in a dish, and that dish in a pot of boiling water. Let it 
xhl until dissolved, then add the alcohol, and boil again until 
mixed. A little camphor should be added, to preserve it and dis¬ 
guise its composition. Put in small bottles. 

Cement for Seams in Roofs.— Take equal quantities of 
white lead and white sand, and as much oil as will make it into 
the consistence of putty. It will in a few weeks become as hard 
as stone. 

Cement for Rubber Boots.— A good cement for rubber 

boots is made by dissolving crude rubber in bisuiphuret of car¬ 
bon. making the solution rather thin. Put the cement upon the 
patch and the boot, heat both and put them together. 

Powerful Cement for Broken Marble. — Take gum 
arabic, 1 pound: make into a thick mucilage: add to it pow¬ 
dered plaster of paris, 1*4 pounds: sifted qtucklime, 5 ounces; 
mix well; heat the marble, and apply the mixture. 


MUCILAGES. 

Commercial Mucilage.— The best quality of mucilage in 
the market is made by dissolving clear glue in equal volumes of 
water and strong vinogar, and adding of an equal volume 










































> 

VJ I 
V 


of alcohol, and a small quantity of a solution of alum in water 
Some of the cheaper preparations offered for sale are merely 
boiled starch or hour, mixed with nitric acid to prevent their 
gelatinizing. 1 

Cream Mucilage— Take the curd of skim milk, carefully 
freed from cream or oil, wash thoroughly and dissolve to satura¬ 
tion m a cold concentrated solution of borax. This mucilage 
keeps; is creamy in appearance, and surpasses gum arabic for 
adhesiveness. 

Dextrine.— Dissolve sufficient, yellow dextrine in hot water 
to bring it to the consistency of honey. This forms a strong 
paste, used on the back of labels, envelopes, postage stamps, etc. 
hhe following is said to be the formula for the mucilage used on 
United States postage stamps: Dextrine 2 ounces, acetic acid 
1 ounce, water 5 ounces, alcohol 1 ounce; add the alcohol to the 
other ingredients when the dextrine is dissolved. 

Elastic Mucilage.— Dissolve 1 part of salicylic acid in 20 
parts of alcohol, add 3 parts of soft soap and 3 parts of glycerine; 
shake thoroughly and add the mixture to a mucilage prepared 
from 93 parts of gum arabic and the requisite amount of water 
(about 180 parts). This mucilage keeps well, and, when it dries, 
remains elastic without tendency to cracking. 

Gum Arabic.—This is the principal material from which 
mucilage is made. Put 3 ounces gum arabic into y 2 pint of cold 
water, and stir frequently until dissolved. 

Guns Tragacanth.—Powdered tragacanth 1 dram, glycerine 
6 drams, water q. s. to make in all 10 ounces: rub the tragacanth 
in a mortar with the glycerine, then add the water; makes an 
excellent mucilage. Equal parts of gum tragacanth and gum 
arabic dissolved in sufficient water makes a better mucilage than 
either alone. 

labeling.— To adhere paper to wood, tin, or metal make a 
mucilage of gum arabic, to which add a solution of sulphate of 
aluminum (1 part of aluminum to 10 parts water); 10 grains of 
aluminum are sufficient for 250 grains of mucilage. This prepa¬ 
ration will not become moldy. 

Iiiquf<l Mucilage.— Fine clean glue 1 pound, gum arabic 10 
ounces, water 1 quart: melt by heat in glue kettle or water bath. 
When entirely melted, add slowly 10 ounces strong nitric acid; 
set off to cool. Then bottle, adding a couple of cloves to each 
bottle. 

Mucilage for Y„abcls —Dextrine 2 ounces, glycerine 1 dram, 
alcohol 1 ounce, water 6 ounces. 

. Peach-Tree Gum.— Take the gum found on beach trees, put 
into a bottle and add equnl parts of alcohol and water, until of 
the proper consistence. This is good, and easily obtained where 
there are peach trees. 

To Preserve Mucilage—The use of salicylic acid, corro- 




”4 


jpujio jjn 


O JDfvwC^MOl | 


ft 














































































194 


DEPARTMENT V. 


slve sublimate, boracic acid, cloves, or any essential oil will pre* 
vent mucilage or paste from becoming sour, ropy, and unlit for 
use. 


PASTES. 



An Excellent Paste for Envelopes.— Mix in equal quan¬ 
tities gum arabic (substitute dextrine) and water in a vial, place, 
it near a stove or on a furnace register, and stir or shake it well 
until it dissolves; add a little alcohol to prevent its souring. 

A Perpetual Paste is a paste that may be made by dissolv¬ 
ing an ounce of alum in a quart of warm water; when cold add 
as much flour as will make.it the consistency of cream, then stir 
into l A teaspoonful of powdered resin and 2 or 3 cloves; boil it to 
a consistency of mush, stirring all the time. It will keep for 12 
months, and when dry may be softened with warm water. 

A Paste for Scrap Books.— Take y 2 teaspoonful of starch, 
same of flour; pour on a little boiling water; let it stand a min¬ 
ute, add more water, stir and cook it until it is thick enough to 
starch a shirt bosom. It spreads smooth, sticks well, and will 
not mold or discolor paper. Starch alone will make a very good 
paste. 

' A Strong Paste.— A paste that will neither decay nor be¬ 
come moldy. Mix good clean flour with cold water into a thick 
paste well blended together, then add boiling water, stirring 
well up until it is of the consistency that can be easily and 
smoothly spread with a brush; add to this a spoonful or two of 
brown sugar, a little corrosive sublimate and about y% dozen 
drops of oil of lavender, and you will have a paste that will hold 
with wonderful tenacity. 

A Brilliant Paste.— A brilliant and adhesive paste, adapted 
to fancy articles, may be made by dissolving caseine precipitated 
from milk by acetic acid and washed with pure water in a satu¬ 
rated solution of borax. 

A Sugar Paste.— In order to prevent the gum from cracking, 
to 10 parts by weight of gum arabic and 3 parts of sugar, add 
water until the desired consistency is obtained. If a very strong 
paste is required, add a quantity of flour equal in weight to the 
gum, without boiling the mixture. The paste improves in 
strength when it begins to ferment. 

Acid-Proof Paste. —A paste formed by mixing powdered 
glass with a concentrated solution of silicate of soda makes an 
excellent acid-proof cement. 

Bookbinder’s.— Place y 2 gill of flour in a saucepan and as 
much cold water as will cover it; break all the lumps while in a 
state of dough; then pour on 2 quarts cold water and 1 ounce 
powdered alum; set on the fire and stir constantly, while boiling, 
until thick. 

























































ALL TRADES 


195 


Corn Starch.— Corn starch makes a good paste for scrap¬ 
books. Dissolve a small quantity in cold water, then cook thor¬ 
oughly; do not get it too thick. When cold it should be thin 
enough to apply with a brush. It is not so liable to mold and 
stain the paper as paste made from other flours or starches. 

Flour Paste That Will Wot Sour. —Mix good flour with 
cold water to a paste, then add boiling water, stirring up well 
until of a consistence capable of being spread with a brushc add 
a little brown sugar, a little corrosive sublimate, and 6 drops oil 
of lavender. Keep 2 days before using. 


Perpetual Paste.— Used for leather, paper, or card board. 
Let 4 parts by weightof glue soften in 15 parts cold water for 15 
hours; then heat until clear; add to this 65 parts boiling water 
without stirring. In another vessel mix 30 parts starch paste 
with 20 parts cold water, stirring well. Into this pour the boil¬ 
ing solution; stir thoroughly; keep at boiling heat; when cool 
add 10 drops carbolic acid. Preserve in closed bottles and it 
will keep for years. 


Photographic.— Used for mounting photographs. Mix thor¬ 
oughly 630 grains finest Bermuda arrow root with 375 grains 
cold water; then add 10% ounces of water and 60 grains of gela¬ 
tine; boil, with stirring, 5 minutes, or until clear; when cold, 
stir in 375 grains of alcohol and 5 or 6 drops of carbolic acid: 
keep in well-closed vessels, and before using, work up a portion 
with a brush in a dish. (See also Perpetual Paste.) 

Paste That Will Wot Sour. —Dissolve % ounce of alum in 
a pint of boiling water, add an equal weight of flour, made 
smooth in a little cold water, and a few drops of oil of cloves, 
and let the whole come to a boil; put it into glass or ointment 
jars. It will keep for months. 


Paper and Leather Paste.— Cover 4 parts, by weight, of 
glue, with 15 parts of cold water, and allow it to soak for sev¬ 
eral hours, then warm moderately till the solution is perfectly 
clear, and dilute with 60 parts of boiling water, intimately 
stirred in. Next prepare a solution of 30 parts of starch and 200 
parts of cold water, so as to form a thin homogeneous liquid, 
free from lumps, and pour the boiling glue solution into it with 
thorough stirring, and at the same time keep the mass boiling. 

Paste to Fasten Cloth to Wood. —Take a plump pound 
of wheat flour, 1 tablespoonful of powdered resin, 1 tablespoon¬ 
ful of finely powdered alum, and rub the mixture in a suitable 
vessel, with water, to a uniform, smooth paste; transfer this to 
a small kettle over a fire, and stir until the paste is perfectly 
homogeneous without lumps. As soon as the mass has become 
so stiff that the stirrer remains upright in it, transfer it to an¬ 
other vessel and cover it up so that no skin may form on its 
surface. This paste is applied in a very thin layer to the surface 
of the table; the cloth, or leather, is then laid and pressed upon 
■t, and smoothed with a roller. The ends are cut off after dry- 
ng If leather is to be fastened on, this must first be moistened 

















































with water. The paste is then applied, and the leather rubbed 
smooth with a cloth. 

Starch Paste.— ivlix starch and cold water, carefully work¬ 
ing the lumps out of the starch, and a mass is formed not too 
thick; pour into this boiling water slowly, stirring rapidly, un¬ 
til the mass becomes transparent, showing the formation of 
paste; a little alum preserves it. 


SEALING WAX. 

Black Sealing' Wax.— 1 . Purchase the best black resin 3 
pounds, beeswax y 2 pound and finely powdered ivory black 1 
pound: melt the whole together over a slow fire, and make it 
into sticks. 2 . Shellac 3 pounds, Venice turpentine 19 ounces 
finest cinnabar 2 pounds: mix. 3 . Rectified spirits of wine 8 
ounces, camphor 1 ounce, shellac 2^4 pounds, black resin l l / 2 
pounds, lampblack 4 ounces. 

Bottle Wax, Black.— Black resin 6*4 pounds, beeswax y 2 
pound, finely powdered ivory black iy 2 pounds; melt together. 
Red. —As the last, but substitute Venetian red or red lead for 
the ivory black. 

Brown.— Shellac 7y 2 ounces. Venice turpentine 4 ounces; 
color with 1 ounce brown ocher and y 2 ounce cinnabar; mix 
thoroughly by a gentle heat and mold as required. 

Gold.— Bleached shellac 3 pounds, Venice turpentine 1 pound, 
dutch leaf, ground fine, 1 pound; prepare as others. 

Green.— Shellac 2 parts, yellow resin 1 part, verdigris 1 part; 
powder and mix by heating slowly; blue can be made by using 
ultramarine blue for coloring. 

Marbled.— Mix 2 or 3 different kinds just as they begin to 
grow solid. 

Red Sealing Wax.— 1 . The red sealing wax is made thus: 
Take of Venice turpentine 2 pounds, camphor 4 ounces, vermil¬ 
ion 1 pounds, rectified spirits of wine 16 ounces. Dissolve the 
camphor first in the spirits of wine, in a suitable vessel, over a 
slow fire, taking care that no flame touches the evaporating 
spirit; then add the shellac, and when that has become of a uni¬ 
form smoothness, by a moderate application of heat, add the tur¬ 
pentine. and lastly the vermilion, which should be passed through 
a hair-sieve over the melted mass, in order that it may not get 
into clots. When the whole is well incorporated, it is ready to 
be formed into sticks of whatever size may be desired. It may 
be added, that it is usual to weigh out the soft wax into balls, 
and roll them on a mahogany table into the lengths desired, and 
then to flatten them by pressure. They are polished by being 
held over charcoal fire in a chaffing dish, then drawn over a piece 
of mutton suet, or tallow candle, and rubbed with a piece of soft 
leather. 2 . Purchase 4 pounds shellac, 1*4 pounds Venice tur- 

































































I r—0__ 


IS 



ALL TRADES. 

Wo| SIS, 2SSSS over a v^ZZ^WZ 

SLTlSioTI‘or^SKL^ ° ther flat - “ «“*«• ““ 

icMwrSSJftJ 5 ? 1 “ s *"~ Melt together yellow wax 1 ounce, Amer 
ruii into molds’ 3 unces ’ gum shella c 5 ounces, resin 16 ounces; 

wate 1 r ,t thi7i V i 1 tnL P t art K resi - n ’ \ parb caustic soda and 5 parts 
Wf/’ n££ “ then b °, be mi . xed Wlth H its weight of plaster of 
^priioQni^ e iu 0mi ? 0Und s f ts in ^ hour, adheres strongly, is not 
p ~> e like Piaster alone and is affected but slightly by warm 

sh 1 ePac 4 ounces, resin 114 ounces, Venice tur- 
p ntine ounce, sulphuret of arsenic to color; mix well by heat. 


PERTAINING TO flETALS. 





SOLDERS, ALLOYS, ETC. 

1 -t^n G 1 ??? 1 J ? 0,der %~T ake 1 1 P° und of pure hanca tin, and melt 
it, then add 14 pound clean lead, and when it is melted, stir the 

strfps ^ geutly ^ a stick or P oker > and pour it out into solder 

Coppersmith’s S ol d er .- Tin 2 parts, lead 1 part. When 
the coppei is thick, heat it by a naked fire; if thin, use a tinned 
copper tool. Use muriate or chloride of zinc, or resin, as a flux 
The same solder will do for iron, cast iron, or steel; if thick" 
heat by a naked fire, or immerse in the solder. ’ 

Soldering-.- The solder for joints requires to be of some 
metal more fusible than that of the substances to be joined 
For copper, usual solder 6 to 8 parts brass to 1 of zinc; 1 of tin 
sometimes added. A still stronger solder, 3 parts brass 1 of 
Z11 \ c ; /l T( l? r . e Pl l ^ e this solder: Melt the brass in a crucible, when 
melted add in the zinc, and cover over for 2 or 3 minutes till the 
combination is effected, then pour it out, over a bundle of twigs 
into a vessel of water, or into a mould composed of a number of 
little channels, so that the solder may be in lone strips conveni- 
ent for use. Brass filings alone will answer very well. To 
braze with this solder: Scrape the surfaces perfectlv clean, and 
secure the flange or joint carefully; cover the surfaces to be 
P°7 der moistened; apply the solder, and melt 
it m with the flame of a clear coke fire from a smith’s hearth- 
particular care being taken not to burn the copper. 

nnftf lng Fluid.— Take 2 ounces of muriatic acid^add zinc 
till bubbles cease to rise; add y 2 teaspoonful. of sal ammoniac 























































198 


DEPARTMENT V- 


and 2 ounces of water. Damp the part you wish to solder, and 
with a piece of hot iron or soldering iron solder the part. 

Solders, To Prepare. —For lead, the solder is 1 part tin, 1 
to 2 of lead. Tin; 1 to 2 parts tin to 1 of lead. Zinc: 1 part tin 
to 1 to 2 of lead. Pewter: 1 part tin to 1 of lead, and 1 to 2 parts 
of bismuth. Steel Joints: 19 parts of silver. 1 copper, 2 brass; 
melt together. Hard Solder: 2 parts of copper, 1 zinc; melt 
together. 1. Gold: 7 parts of silver, 1 copper, with borax; 2. 
2 parts of gold, 1 silver, 1 copper. 3. 3 parts of gold, 3 silver, 1 
copper, y z zinc. Silver: 2 parts of silver, 1 brass, with borax; or 
4 silver 3 brass, 1-16 zinc, with borax. Brass: 3 parts of copper, 
1 zinc, with borax. Platina: Gold, with borax. Iron; The best 
solder for iron is good tough brass, with a little borax. Copper: 
6 parts of brass, 1 zinc, 1 tin; tnelt together, mix well, and pour 
out to cool. The surfaces to be joined are made perfectly clean 
and smooth, and then covered with sal ammoniac or resin, or 
both; the solder is then applied, being melted in and smoothed 
over by the soldering iron. 

Fusible Metal.—1. Bismuth 8 parts; lead 5 parts; tin 3 
parts; melt together. Melts below 212o Fahrenheit. 2. Bis¬ 
muth 2 parts; lead 5 parts; tin 3 parts. Melts in boiling water. 
3. Lead 3 parts; tin 2 parts; bismuth 5 parts; mix. Melts at 
197o Fahrenheit. Remarks: The above are used to make toy- 
spoons, to surprise children by their melting in hot liquors; and 
to form pencils for writing on asses’ skin, or paper prepared by 
rubbing burnt hartshorn into it. 

Metallic Cement.-M. Greshiem states that an alloy of cop¬ 
per and mercury, prepared as follows, is capable of attaching 
itself firmly to the surfaces of metal, glass, and porcelain. From 
20 to 30 parts of finely divided copper, obtained by the reduc¬ 
tion of oxide of copper with hydrogen, or by precipitation from 
solution of its sulphate with zinc, are made into a paste with oil 
of vitriol and 70 parts of mercury added, the whole being well 
triturated. When the amalgamation is complete, the acid is re¬ 
moved by washing with boiling water, and the compound allowed 
to cool. In 10 or 12 hours, it becomes sufficiently hard to re¬ 
ceive a brilliant polish, and to scratch the surface of tin or gold. 
By heat it assumes the consistence of wax; and, as it does not 
contract on cooling, M. Greshiem recommends its use by dentists 
for stopping teeth. 

Artificial Gold.— This is a new metallic alloy which is now 
very extensively used in France as a substitute for gold. Pure 
copper 100 parts, zinc, or preferably tin 17 parts, magnesia 6 
parts, sal ammoniac 3-6 parts, quicklime 1-8 parts, tartar of 
commerce, 9 parts, are mixed as follows: The copper is first 
melted, then the magnesia, sal ammoniac, lime, and tartar, are 
then added, separately and by degrees, in the form of powder; 
the whole is now briskly stirred for about half an hour, so as to 
mix thoroughly; and then the zinc is added in small grains by 
throwing it on the surface and stirring till it is entirely fused; 


















































ALL TRADES 


199 


the crucible is then covered and the fusion maintained for about 
35 minutes. The surface is then skimmed and the alloy is ready 
for casting. It has a flue grain, is malleable and takes a splen¬ 
did polish. It does not corrode readily, and for many purposes 
is an excellent substitute for gold. When tarnished, its brilli¬ 
ancy can be restored by a little acidulated water. If tin be em¬ 
ployed instead of zinc, the alloy will be more brilliant. It is 
very much used in France, and must ultimately attain equal 
popularity here. 

Ormolu.— The ormolu of the brassfounder, popularly known 
as an imitation of red gold, is extensively used by the French 
workmen in metals. It is generally found in combination with 
grate and stove work. It is composed of a greater portion of 
copper and less zinc than ordinary brass, is cleaned readily by 
means of acid, and is burnished with facility. To give this ma¬ 
terial the rich appearance, it is not unfrequently brightened up 
after “dipping” (that is cleaning in acid) by means of a scratch 
brush (a brush made of fine brass wire), the action of which 
helps to produce a very brilliant gold-like surface. It is pro¬ 
tected from tarnish by the application of lacquer. 

Blanched Copper.— Fuse 8 ounces of copper and V 2 ounce 
of neutral arsenical salt, with a flux made of calcined borax 
charcoal dust and powdered glass. 

Browning- Gun Barrels.— The tincture of iodine diluted 
with y 2 its bulk water, is a superior liquid for browning gun 
barrels. 

Silvering: Powder for Coating Copper.— Nitrate of sil¬ 
ver 30 grains, common salt 30 grains, cream of tartar 3U 
drams; mix, moisten with water, and apply. 

Alloy for Journal Boxes.— The best alloy for journal 

boxes is composed of copper, 24 pounds; tin, 24 pounds; and 
antimony, 8 pounds. Melt the copper first, then add the tin. and 
lastly the antimony. It should be first run into ingots, then 
melted and cast in the form required for the boxes. 

Alloy for Bells of Clocks.—' The bells of the pendules, or 
ornamental clocks,-made in Paris, are composed of copper 72.00 
tin 26.56, iron 1.44, in 100 parts. 

An Alloy for Tools.— An alloy of 1000 parts of copper and 
14 of tin is said to furnish tools, which hardened and sharpened 
in the manner of the ancients, afford an edge nearly equal to 
that of steel. 

Alloy for Cymbals and Gongs.— An alloy for cymbals and 
gongs is made of 100 parts of copper with about 25 of tin. To 
give this compound the sonorous property in the highest degree, 
the piece should be ignited after it is cast, and then plunged im¬ 
mediately into cold water. 

Solder for Steel Joints.— Silver 19 pennyweights, copper 1 

























































DEPARTMENT V. 



200 

pennyweight, brass 2 pennyweights. Melt under a coat of char¬ 
coal dust. 

Soft Gold Solder.— Is composed of 4 parts gold, 1 of silver, 
and 1 of copper. It can be made softer by adding brass, but the 
solder becomes liable to oxidize. 

Files.— Allow dull files to lay in diluted sulphuric acid until 
they are bit deep enough. 

To Prevent Rusting-.— Boiled linseed oil will keep polished 
tools from rusting if it is allowed to dry on them. Common 
sperm oil will prevent them from rusting for a short period. A 
coat of copal varnish is frequently applied to polished tools ex¬ 
posed to the weather. 

Anti-Attrition, and Axle-Grease.— One part of fine black 

lead, ground perfectly smooth, with 4 parts of lard. 

To Galvanize.— Take a solution of nitro-muriate of gold 
(gold dissolved in a mixture of aquafortis and muriatic acid) 
and add to a gill of it a pint of ether or alcohol, then immerse 
your copper chain in it for about 15 minutes, when it will be 
coated with a film of gold. The copper must be perfectly clean 
and free from oxide, grease, or dirt, or it will not take on the 
gold. _ 


RARE AND VALUABLE COHPOSITIONS. 

Recipes for the use of machinists, iron and brass founders, 
tinmen, coppersmiths, turners, dentists, finishers of brass, brit- 
tannia, and German silver, and for other useful and important 
purposes in the practical arts. 

The larger number of the following recipes are the result of in¬ 
quiries and experiments by a practical operative. Most of those 
which relate to the mixing of metals and to the finishing of man¬ 
ufactured articles have been thoroughly tested by him and will 
be found to produce the resuLs desired and expected. The others 
have been collected trom eminent scientific works. 

Yellow Brass for Turning.— (Common article.) Copper 
20 pounds, zinc 10 pounds, lead 1 to 5 ounces. Put in the lead 
last before pouring off. 

Red Brass for Turning.— Copper 24 pounds, zinc 5 pounds, 
lead 8 ounces. Put in the lead last before pouring off. 

Red Brass, Free, for Turning.— Copper 160 pounds, zinc 
50 pounds, lead 10 pounds, antimony 44 ounces. 

Another Brass for Turning.— Copper 32 pounds, zinc 10 
pounds, lead 1 pound. 

Best Itcd Brass for Fine Fastings.— Copper 24 pounds, 
zinc 5 pounds, bismuth 1 ounce. Put in the bismuth last before 
pouring off. 

Bronze Metal.—1. Copper 7 pounds, zinc 3 pounds, tin 2 
pounds, 2. Copper 1 pound, zinc 12 pounds, tin 8 pounds. 



















































ALL TRADES. 


201 


,) 


Bell Metal for Large Bells.— Copper 100 pounds, tin from 
20 to 25 pounds. 

Bell Metal for Small Bells.— Copper 3 pounds, tin 1 
pound. 

t'ock Metal.— Copper 20 pounds, lead 8 pounds, litharge 1 
ounce, antimony 3 ounces. 

fitardening for Britannia.— To be mixed separately from 
the other ingredients. Copper 12 pounds, tin 1 pound. 

Good Britannia Metal.— Tin 150 pounds, copper 3 pounds, 
antimony 10 pounds. 

Britannia Metal.— Second quality. Tin 140 pounds, copper 
3 pouuds, antimony 9 pounds. 

Britannia Metal for Casting.— Tin 210 pounds, cooper 4 
pounds, antimony 12 pounds. 

Britannia Metal for Spinning.— Tin 100 pounds, Britan¬ 
nia hardening 4 pounds, antimony 4 pounds. 

Britannia Metal for Registers.— Tin 100 pounds, hard¬ 
ening 8 pounds antimony 8 pounds. 

Best Britannia for Spouts.— Tin 140 pounds, copper 3 
pounds, antimony 6 pounds. 

Best Britannia for Spoons. —Tin 100 pounds, hardening 
5 pounds, antimony 10 pounds. 

Best Britannia for Handles. —Tin 140 pounds, copper 2 
pounds, antimony 5 pounds. 

Best Britannia for Lamps, Pillars, and Spouts.— Tin 

300 pounds copper 4 pounds, antimony 15 pounds. 

Casting.— Tin 100 pounds, hardening 5 pounds, antimony 5 
pounds. 

Lining Metal for Boxes of Railroad Cars.— Mix tin 24 

pounds, copper 4 pounds, antimony 8 pounds, for a hardening; 
then add tin 72 pounds. 

Fine Silver-Colored Metal.— Tin 100 pounds, antimony 8 
pounds, copper 4 pounds, bismuth 1 pound. 

German Silver, First Quality, for Casting. —Copper 
50 pounds, zinc 25 pounds, nickel 25 pounds. 

German Silver, Second Quality, for Casting.— Copper 
50 pounds, zinc 20 pounds, nickel (best pulverized) 10 pounds. 

German Silver for Rolling.— Copper 60 pounds, zinc 20 
pounds, nickel 25 pounds. 

German Silver for Bells and Other Castings.— Copner 
60 pounds, zinc 20 pounds, nickel 20 pounds, lead 3 pounds, iron 
(that of tin plate being best) 2 pounds. 

Imitation of Silver. —Tin 3 ounces, copper4 pounds. 

Pinchbeck.— Copper 5 pounds, zinc 1 pound. 








































202 


DEPARTMENT V. 


Tombac.— Copper 16 pounds, tin 1 pound, zinc 1 pound. 

Retl Tombac.— Copper 10 pounds, zinc 1 pound. 

Hard White Metal.— Sheet brass 32 ounces, lead 2 ounces, 
tin 2 ounces, zinc 1 ounce. 

Metal for Taking Impressions.— Lead 3 pounds, tin 2 
pounds, bismuth 5 pounds. 

Spanish Tntania. —Iron or steel 8 ounces, antimony 16 
ounces, niter 3 ounces. Melt and harden 8 ounces tin with 1 
ounce of the above compound. 

Another Tntania.— Antimony 4 ounces, arsenic 1 ounce, 
tin 2 pounds. 

Gun Metal.— Bristol brass 112 pounds, zinc 14 pounds, tin 7 
pounds. 

Rivet Metal.— Copper 32 ounces, tin 2 ounces, zinc 1 ounce. 

Rivet Metal for Hose.— Tin 64 pounds, copper 1 pound. 

Fusible Alloy which Melts in Boiling 1 Water. —Bis¬ 
muth 8 ounces, tin 3 ounces, lead 5 ounces. 

Solder for Gold.— Gold 6 pennyweights, silver 1 penny¬ 
weight, copper 2 pennyweights. 

Solder for Silver.— (For use of jewelers.) Fine silver 19 
pennyweights, copper 1 pennyweight, sheet brass 10 penny¬ 
weights. 

White Solder for Silver. —Silver 1 ounce, tin 1 ounce. 

White Solder for Raised Rritannia Ware. —Tin 100 
pounds, copper 3 ounces; to make it free add lead 3 ounces. 

Rest Soft Solder for Cast Britannia Ware.— Tin 8 

pounds, lead 5 pounds. 

Yellow Solder for Brass or Copper.— Copper 1 pound, 
zinc 1 pound. 

Yellow Solder for Brass or Copper.— Stronger than the 
last.—Copper 32 pounds, zinc 29 pounds, tin 1 pound. 

Solder for Copper.— Copper 10 pounds, zinc 9 pounds. 

Black Solder.—1. Copper 2 pounds, zinc 3 pounds, tin 2 
ounces. 2. Sheet brass 20 pounds, tin 6 pounds, zinc 1 pound. 

Soft Solder.— Tin 15 pounds, lead 15 pounds, 

Silver Solder for Plated Metals.— Fine silver 1 ounce, 
brass 10 pennyweights. 

Yellow Ripping Metal.— Copper 32 pounds, zinc 2 pounds, 
soft solder 2 % ounces. 

Quick Bright Dipping Acid for Brass Which Has 
Been Ormoloud. —Sulphuric acid 1 gallon, nitric acid 1 gal¬ 
lon. 


Dipping Acid.— Sulphuric acid 12 pounds, nitric acid 1 pint, 


















































































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ALL TRADES. 

?hi 6 K^ P°jmds, soot 2 handsful, brimstone 2 ounces. Pulverize 
the brimstone and soak in water 1 hour; add the nitric acid last 

A ®*^ for Cast Brass.— Sulphuric acid 1 

be added or omitted. r qUart ‘ A little muriatic ac * d may 

—Sulphuric acid 4 gallons, nitric acid 2 gal- 
lons, saturated solution of sulphate of iron (copperas) 1 pint, so¬ 
lution of sulphate of copper 1 quart. ; y ’ 

. Di I»Pi M §: Acid for Sheet Brass.— Sulphuric 

2 7 1 D all0 i n o S ’ nur i c ac „ d 1 P int ’ muriatic acid 1 pint, water 1 

ftae, and r sto?rt™ a S sti?k. t “ the mUrlati ° acM last ’ a littl( t at a 

»iPPingr Acid for Sheet or Cast Brass.-Sul- 

pnunc acid 1 gallon, sal ammoniac 1 ounce, sulphur (in flour) 1 
ounce, blue vitriol 1 ounce, saturated solution of zinc in nitric 
acid, mixed with an equal quantity of sulphuric acid, 1 gallon. 

Prepare Brass Work for Ormolu Dipping.-If the 

work is oily boil it in lye; and if it is finished work filed or 
• P? n . ed ’ dl P V* m ei'i acid, and then it is ready to be ormeloed; but 
if it is unfinished and free from oil, pickle it in strong sulphuric 

d C wii?h P m p P' e - nitllc a ? ld - and then m the old acid, after which 
it will be ready for ormeloing. 

Repair Old Xitric Acid Ormolu Dips.— If the work 
after dipping appears coarse and spotted, add vitriol till it an- 

a.dri m f a ?ii r ?^ e ‘ * f i he - 7 ° r ?-n f • er di PP in g appears too smooth 
3)QQ muriatic acid and niter till it gives the right aDDearanep 

jF^e or molu dips should be repaired according to the reci- 
P^’P^imgm the proper ingredients to strengthen them. They 
using h® allowed to settle, but should be stirred often while 

Ac * d for Brass or Zinc.— Muriatic acid 1 quart, 
moniac S^unces ° a SOlUtl ° n ° f this add water 1 quart, sal am- 

eg:ar Bronze for Brass.-Vinegar 10 gallons, blue vit¬ 
riol 3 pounds, muriatic acid 3 pounds, corrosive sublimate 4 
grains, sal ammonia 2 pounds, alum 8 ounces. 

f ? r Making- Lacquer. —Mix the ingredients 
ow d Jfi t th vessel containing them stand in the sun or in a place 
slightly warmed 3 or 4 days, shaking it frequently till the gum 
is dissolved, after which let it settle from 24 to 48 hours when 
the clear liquor may be poured off for use. Pulverized glass 
ties° metimeS US6d m making laC( l uer < to carry down the impuri- 


4V 


Lacquer for Dipped Brass.— Alcohol, proof specific grav¬ 
ity not less than 95-100th, 2 gallons, seed lac 1 pound, gum 
copal 1 ounce, English saffron 1 ounce, annotto 1 ounce. 

Lacquer for Bronzed Brass.— To 1 pint of the above lac- 












































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204 


DEPARTMENT V. 



quer add gamboge 1 ounce; and after .mixing it add an equal 
quantity of the first lacquer. 

Weep Gold-Colored Lacquer. —Best alcohol 40 ounces, 

Spanish annotto 8 grains, tumeric 2 drams, shellac *4 ounce, red 
sanders 12 grains; when dissolved, add spirits of turpentine 30 
drops. 

Gold-Colored Lacquer for Brass Not Wipped.— Alco¬ 
hol 4 gallons, tumeric 3 pounds, gamboge 3 ounces, gum sande- 
rach7 pounds, shellac 1 L A pounds, turpentine varnish 1 pint. 

Gold-Colored Lacquer for Hipped Brass.— Alcohol 36 

ounces, seed lac 6 ounces, amber 2 ounces, gum gutta 2 ounces, 
red sandalwood 24 grains, dragon’s blood 60 grains, oriental 
saffron 36 grains, pulverized glass 4 ounces. 

Good Lacquer for Brass. —Seed lac 6 ounces, amber or co¬ 
pal 2 ounces, best alcohol 4 gallons, pulverized glass 4 ounces, 
dragon’s blood 40 grains, extract of red sandalwood obtained by 
water 30 grains. 

Lacquer for Hipped Brass.— Alcohol 12 gallons, seed lac 
9 pounds, turmeric 1 pound to a gallon of the above mixture; 
Spanish saffron 4 ounces. The saffron is to be added for bronze 
work. 

Good Lacquer.— Alcohol 8 ounces, gamboge 1 ounce, shellac 

3 ounces, annotto 1 ounce, solution of 3 ounces of seed lac in 1 
pint of alcohol; when dissolved add l / 2 ounce Venice turpentine, 
14 ounce dragon’s blood, will make it dark; keep in a warm place 

4 or 5 days. 

Hale Lacquer for Tin Plate.— Best alcohol 8 ounces, tu¬ 
meric 4 drams, hay saffron 2 scruples, dragon’s blood 4 scru¬ 
ples, rec sanders 1 scruple, shellac 1 ounce, gum sanderach 2 
drams, gum mastic 2 drams, Canada balsam 2 drams; when dis¬ 
solved add spirits of turpentine 30 drops. 

Red Lacquer for Brass.— Alcohol 8 gallons, dragon's 
blood 4 pounds, Spanish annotto 12 pounds, gum sanderach 13 
pounds, turpentine 1 gallon. 

Pale Lacquer for Brass.— Alcohol 2 gallons, cape aloes, 
cut small, 3 ounces, pale shellac 1 pound, gamboge 1 ounce. 

Best Lacquer for Brass.— Alcohol 4 gallons, shellac 2 
pounds, amber gum 1 pound, copal 20 ounces, seed lac 3 pounds, 
saffron to color, pulverized glass 8 ounces. 

Color for Lacquer. —Alcohol 1 quart, annotto 4 ounces. 

Lacquer for Philosophical Instruments.— Alcohol 80 

ounces, gum gutta 3 ounces, gum sandarach 8 ounces, gum elemi 
8 ounces, dragon's blood 4 ounces, seed lac 4 ounces, terra mer- 
ita 3 ounces, saffron 8 grains, pulverized glass 12 ounces. 

Brown Bronze Hip.— Iron scales 1 pound, arsenic 1 ounce, 
muriatic acid 1 pound, zinc (solid) 1 ounce. Let the zinc be kept 
in only while it is in use. 



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ALL TRADES 


205 


Green Bronze I>ip.— Wine vinegar 2 quarts, verditer green 
2 ounces, sal ammoniac 1 ounce, salt 2 ounces, alum u ounce 
French berries 8 ounces; boil the ingredients together. 

Aquafortis Bronze Dip —Nitric acid 8 ounces, muriatic 
acid 1 quart, sal ammoniac 2 ounces, alum 1 ounce, salt 2 ounces 
water 2 gallons. Add the salt after boiling the other ingredi¬ 
ents, and use it hot. 

Plumber’s Solder.— Lead 2 parts, tin 1. 

Tinman’s Solder.— Lead 1 part, tin 1. 

Pewterer’s Solder.— Tin 2 parts, lead 1, 

Common Pewter. —Tin 4 parts lead 1. 

Best Pewter.— Tin 100 parts, antimony 17. 

A Metal That Expands in Cooling-.— Lead 9 parts, anti¬ 
mony 2, bismuth 1. The metal is very useful in filling small 
defects m iron castings, etc. 

Queen's Metal.— Tin 9 parts, antimony 1, bismuth 1, lead 1 

P3i‘t. 

Mock Platinum. —Brass 8 parts, zinc 5. 

Composition Used to Weld Cast Steel.— Borax 10 parts; 
sal ammoniac 1; grind or pound them roughly together, then 
fuse them in a metal pot over a clear fire, taking care to continue 
the heat until all spume has disappeared from t he surface. When 
the liquid appears clear, the composition is ready to be poured 
out to cool and concrete; afterwards being ground to a fine 
powder, it is ready for use. To use this composition the steel to 
be welded is raised to a heat which may be expressed by “bright 
yellow,” it is then dipped among the welding powder, and again 
placed m the fire until it attains the same degree of heat as be¬ 
fore, it is then ready to be placed under the hammer. 

Cast llron Cement.— Clean borings or turnings of cast iron 
16 parts, sal ammoniac 2, flour of sulphur 1; mix them well 
together in a mortar and keep them drv. When required for 
use, take of the mixture 1 part, clean borings 20: mix thorough¬ 
ly, and add a sufficient quantity of water. A little grindstone 
dust added improves the cement. 

x 

Booth’s Patent Grease for Railway Axles.— Water 1 
gallon, clean tallow .3 pounds, palm oil 6 pounds, common soda 
V 2 pound; or tallow 8 pounds, palm oil 10. The mixture is to be 
heated to about 210 o Fahrenheit and well stirred until it cools 
down to about 70 o, when it is ready for use. 

Cefnent for Steampipe Joints, w ith Faced Flanges — 

Mixed white lead 2 parts, red lead 1; grind or otherwise mix 
them to a consistence of thin putty, apply interposed layers 
with 1 or 2 thicknesses of canvas or gauze wire, as the necessity 
of the case may be. J 

Olive Bronze Dip for Brass.— Nitric acid 3 ounces, muri¬ 
atic acid 2 ounces; add titanium or palladium; when the metal 






















































206 


DEPARTMENT V. 




i 


is dissolved add 2 gallons pure soft water to each pint of the 
solution. 

Brown Bronze Paint for Copper Vessels.— Tinc¬ 
ture of steel 4 ounces, spirits of niter 4 ounces, essence of dendi 
4 ounces, blue vitriol 1 ounce, water y 2 pint. Mix in a bottle. 
Apply it with a fine brush, the vessel being full of boiling water. 
Varnish after the application of the bronze. 

Bronze for All Kinds of Metal.— Muriate of ammonia (sal 
ammoniac) 4 drams, oxalic acid 1 dram, vinegar 1 pint; dissolve 
the oxalic acid first; let the work be clean. Put on the bronze 
with a brush, repeating the operation as many times as may be 
be necessary. 

Bronze Paint for Iron or Brass.— Chrome green, 2 
pounds, ivory black 1 ounce, chrome yellow 1 ounce, good japan 
1 gill; grind all together and mix with linseed oil. 

To Bronze Gun Barrels.— Dilute nitric acid with water and 
rub the gun barrels with it; lay them by fora few days, then rub 
them with oil and polish them with beeswax. 



For Tinning Brass.— Water 2 pails full, cream of tartar V 2 
pound, salt y 2 pint. Shaved or Grained Tin—Boil the work in 
the mixture, keeping it in motion during the time of boiling. 

Silvering by Heat.— Dissolve 1 ounce of silver in nitric 
acid; add a small quantity of salt; then wash it and add sal am¬ 
moniac, or 6 ounces of salt and white vitriol; also ounce of 
corrosive sublimate; rub them together till they form a paste: 
rub the piece which is to be silvered with the paste, heat it till 
the silver runs, after which dip it in a weak vitriol pickle to 
clean it. 

Mixture for Silvering.— Dissolve 2 ounces of silver with 3 
grains of corrosive sublimate; add tartaric acid 4 pounds, salt 8 
quarts. 

Separate Silver from Copper.— Mix sulphuric acid 1 part, 
nitric acid 1 part, water 1 part; boil the metal in the mixture 
till it is dissolved, and throw in a little salt to cause the silver to 
subside. 

Solvent for Gold.— Mix equal quantities of nitric and muri¬ 
atic acids. 

Varnish for Smooth Molding Patterns.— Alcohol 1 gal¬ 
lon, shellac 1 pound, lamp or ivory black sufficient to color it. 

Fine Black Varnish for Coaches.— Melt in an iron pot, 

amber 32 ounces, resin 6 ounces, asphaltum 6 ounces, drying 
Hnseed oil 1 pint; when partly cooled add oil of turpentine, 
wormed, 1 pint. 

Chinese White Copper.— Copper 40.4 parts, nickel 31.0 
parts, zinc 25.4 parts, iron 2.6 parts. 


Bath Metal.— Brass 32 parts, zinc 9. 






























































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ALL TRADES. 


207 


pe? P 7 e pan"^n?1 t ?i-i COPP6r 0 parts - tln 2 - arsenlc 1; OT - «>P- 

Blanched Copper —Copper 8, and arsenic V 2 parts. 

Mietal.-Brass 4, and tin 4 parts: when fused, 
add bismuth 4. and antimony 4 parts. This composition is added 
at discretion to melted tin. 

p® 0 *’* ^cmeut for Steam-boilers, Steam pipes, Etc— 

Red or white lead, in oil, 4 parts; iron borings 2 or 8 parts. 

M?rd Cement.— Iron borings and salt water, and a small 
quantity of sal ammoniac with fresh water. 

Staining- Wood and Ivory— Yellow.— Diluted nitric acid 
will produce it on wood. 

Red. An infusion of Brazil wood in stale urine, in the propor¬ 
tion of a pound to a gallon for wood; to be laid on when boiling 
hot, and should be laid over with alum water before it dries; or 
a solution of dragon’s blood in spirits of wine, may be used. 

Black. —Strong solution of nitric acid for wood or ivory, 
and^put^n^hot - ^Brazil, madder and logwood, dissolved in water 

Blue.—I vory may be stained thus: Soak it in a solution of 
verdigris in nitric acid, which will turn it green; then dip it into 
a solution of pearlash bmling hot. * 

Purple.— Soak ivory in a solution of sal ammoniac in 4 times 
its weight of nitrous acid. 

Silver Plating- Fluid.— Dissolve 1 ounce of nitrate of sil¬ 
ver m crystal in 12 ounces of soft water; then dissolve in the 
water 2 ounces cyanuret of potash; shake the whole together 
and let it stand until it becomes clear. Have ready some % 
ounce vials and fill half full of Paris white or fine whiting; and 
then fill up the bottles with the liquor, and it is ready for use. 
1 he whiting does not increase the coating power; it only helps 
to clean the articles, and save the silver fluid, by half filling the 
DOllIGS* 

"To Loosen Rusted Screws.— One of the simplest and read- 
1 ^ s . t v. waysof looseni “g a rusted screw is to apply heat to the head 
of the screw. A small bar or rod of iron, flat at the end if red¬ 
dened in the fire and applied for 2 or 3 minutes to the head of 
the rusty screw will, as soon as it heats the screw render its 
withdrawal ?** easy by the screw-driver as if the screw had been 
only recently inserted. As there is a kitchen poker in everv 
house, that instrument, if heated at its extremity and applied 
for a few minutes to the head of the screw or screws, will do the 
work of loosening; an ordinary screw-driver will do the rest 
without causing the least damage, trouble, or vexation of spirit. 



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208 


DEPARTMENT V. 


LEATHER. 


CARE OF AND POLISHES FOR. 


Boot ami Shoe Blacking-.— Ivory black 1 pound, molasses 

2 ounces, olive oil 4 ounces, oil of vitriol 4 ounces, alcohol 8 
ounces, rye flour 1 pound; mix them together in a kettle. 

Boots. To make leather boots waterproof saturate them with 
castor oil. To stop squeauing, drive a peg into the middle of the 
sole. i 

Boot Cleaning.— Three good brushes and good blacking 
must be provided; one of the brushes hard, to brush.off the mud; 
the other soft, to lay on the blacking; the third of a medium 
hardness, for polishing. The blacking should be kept coraed or 
covered except when in use. When boots come in very muddy 
wash off the mud. and wipe them dry with a sponge; then leave 
them to dry gradually on their sides, taking care they are not 
placed near tiie fire. 

Brilliant French "Varnish for Leather. —Spirit of wine 
% pint,vinegar 5 pints, gum Senegal in powder y 2 pound, loaf su¬ 
gar 6 ounces, powdered galls 2 ounces, green copperas 4 ounces; 
dissolve the gum and sugar in the water; strain, and put on a 
slow fire, but don’t boil; now put in the galls, cojiperas, and the 
alcohol; stir well for five minutes; setoff: and when nearly cool 
strain through flannel, and bottle for use. It is applied with a 
pencil brush. Most superior. 

Cleaning Patent Leather Boots.— They requii'e to be 
wiped with a wet sponge, and afterwards with a soft dry cloth, 
and occasionally with a soft cloth and sweet oil, blacking and 
polishing the edges of the sole in the usual way, but so as not to 
cover the patent polish with blacking. A little milk may also be 
used with .very good effect for patent leather boots. 

Cheap Tanning Without Bark or Mineral Astrin¬ 
gents.— The astringent liquor is composed of water 17 gallons, 
aleppo galls V 2 pound, Bengal catechu l l / 2 ounces, and 5 pounds 
of tormentil or septfoil root. Powder the ingredients, and boil 
in the water 1 hour; when cool, put in the skins (which must be 
prepared by being plunged into a preparation of bran and water 
for 2 days previously) ; handle them frequently during the fii\st 

3 days, let them alone the next .‘5 days, then handle 3 or 4 times 
in i day; let them lie undisturbed for 25 days more, when the 
process will be complete. 

Enameled Leather Shoes, Polish for.— One pint pure 

sWeet cream, V 2 pint linseed oil; make warm separately; then 
mix together. Having cleaned the shoes, rub them over with a 
sponge dipped in the mixture, then rub with a soft dry cloth un¬ 
til a luster is produced. 







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french I’olisl* or Dressing- for Leather.— Mix 2 pints 
best vinegar with 1 pint soft water; stir into it pounds glne, 
broken up, y 2 pound logwood chips, % ounce finely powdered in¬ 
digo, J4 ounce best soft soap, and *4 isinglass; put the mixture 
over the fire, and let it boil ten minutes or more; then strain 
bottle, and cork. When cold it is fit for use. Apply with a 
sponge. 

French Polish.— Boil in a quart of liquid, consisting of 2 
parts of vinegar and 1 part of water, pound of glue and the 
same quantity of logwood chips, with about the sixth part of an 
ounce of the following ingredients: Soft soap, isinglass, and fine¬ 
ly-powdered indigo. When boiled H of an hour it should be 
strained off, and when cold be fit for use. It should be applied 
with a piece of soft rag or sponge, the shoes being quite dry and 
free from dirt. 

Harness.— 1. Molasses % pound, lampblack 1 ounce, yeast 1 
spoonful; sugar, olive oil, gum tragacanth and isinglass each 1 
ounce, and a cow’s gall, mix with 2 pints stale beer, and let 
stand upon the fire 1 hour. 2. Four ounces best glue, iy 2 pints 
best vinegar, 2 ounces gum arabic, % pint black ink, 2 drams 
isinglass. Dissolve the gum in the ink, and melt the isinglass in 
another vessel with as much water as will cover it. Steep the 
glue in the vinegar until soft. Dissolve it by the aid of heat 
stirring to prevent burning. Add the ink to the gum and heat 
generally. Lastly, mix in the solution of isinglass and remove 
from the fire. When used, a small portion must be heated until 
fluid, then applied with a sponge and permitted to dry. Dried 
in the sun, or by the fire, it will have a better polish. 

Liquid Blacking' for Boots and Shoes.— 1. Four ounces 
molasses, % ounce lampblack, 1 teaspoonful yeast, 1 teaspoon¬ 
ful oil of turpentine; mix well; apply with a sponge. 2. Soft 
water, 4 gallons, logwood extract, 6 ounces. Dissolve by gentle 
heat. Soft water 1 gallon, borax 6 ounces, shellac iy 2 ouuces, 
boil until solution is effected. Potassium bichromate % ounces, 
water y 2 pint; dissolve all together. Add to this before boiling 
3 ounces spirits of water or ammonia. 3. Three ounces ivory 
black, 2 ounces molasses, ounce sweet oil; mix to a paste; 
add gently y 2 ounce of vitriol, then add y 2 pint vinegar and 1 % 
pints water or sour beer. The oil of vitriol may be mixed with 
sweet oil. 4. One dram isinglass, y 2 dram indigo, y, ounce soft 
soap, 2 ounces glue, small handful logwood raspings. Boil all 
slowly together in 1 pint vinegar until reduced one half. Clean 
the shoes of all dirt and blacking with a wet sponge. Dry the 
shoes and apply polish with a sponge. 

Oil Baste for Blacking Boots and Shoes .— 1 Two ounces 
oil of vitriol, 4 ounces tanner’s oil, mix and let stand 48 hours 
then add 5 ounces molasses and 1 pound ivory black; stir weli 
and then put up for sale. This has been the fortune of Mason 
of Philadelphia. ’ 

Patent Blacking.— One gallon alcohol, 1 ounce sulphuric 


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210 DEPARTMENT V. ' 

acid. IVt pounds gum shellac; let stand 48 hours, then add U 
pound ivory black. Let stand 24 hours, then carefully pour on 
the top: this is ready for use, and is waterproof. This recipe 
costs $50, and is for the polish of all leather. It sells in 4 ounce 
bottles at $1 per bottle. 

Paste Blacking- for Boots and Shoes.—1. Four ounces 
oil of vitriol, 10 ounces tanner’s oil, 2 pounds ivory black, 10 
ounces molasses. Mix the vitriol and oil together, and let stand 
24 hours; then add the ivory black and molasses and mix into a 
thick paste; will not injure the leather. 2. Mix 3 pounds lamp¬ 
black, l / 2 pound bone black, and 5 pounds molasses and glycerine 
in equal parts; melt 214 ounces gutta percha in an iron sauce¬ 
pan; add 10 ounces olive oil and 1 ounce stearine or tallow; 
stirring; add to this the first mixture, and stir thoroughly; dis¬ 
solve 5 ounces gum Senegal in 114 pints water, and 1 ounce each 
oils of rosemary and lavender. Stir well into the double mix¬ 
ture. For use, dilute the blacking with 3 or 4 parts water. 

Patent Leather, To Restore Enamel.— When the ena¬ 
mel has chipped off, clean the parts well with fullers earth and 
water, and then apply the following varnish: 2 ounces pure 
Prussian blue. 1 ounce vegetable black, 1 quart drying oil, with 
a little copal or amber varnish. Melt at a heat of 160o Fahren¬ 
heit, but be sure that the pigments are carefully ground in the 
drying oils. Don’t add the varnish till the third and last coat. 
Polish with a piece of pumice stone. 

Stains on Leather.— A piece of cloth dipped in spirits of 
wine and rubbed on soiled leather will remove every spot on it. 

Varnish for Leather.— Spirits of wine (alcohol) % pint, 
vinegar 5 pints. Senegal gum in powder y z pound, loaf sugar 6 
ounces, powdered galls 2 ounces, green copperas, 4 ounces; dis¬ 
solve the gum and sugar in the water, strain and put on a slow 
fire, but don’t boil. Now put in the galls, copperas, and alcohol; 
stir well 5 minutes; setoff; when nearly cool strain through a 
flannel and bottle for use. Apply with a brush. 

To Tan Raw Hide.-- When taken from the animal spread it 
flesh side up; then put 2 parts of saltpeter and alum combined, 
make it fine, sprinkle it evenly over the surface, roll it up. let it 
alone a few days till dissolved; then take off what flesh remains 
and nail the skin to the side of a barn in the sun; stretch tight, 
to make it soft like harness leather, put neat’s foot oil on it, fas¬ 
ten it up in the sun again; then rub out all the oil you can with 
a wedge-shaped stick, and it is tanned with the hair on. 

Waterproof for Leather.— Take linseed oil 1 pint, yellow 
wax and white turpentine each 2 ounces, burgundy pitch 2 
ounces; melt and color with lampblack. ' 

Waterproof Blacking for Boots and Shoes.— Take an 
old pair itidia rubber shoes, cut them up, and pull off the cloth 
lining, put the rubber in about 1 pint neat’s foot oil, and set on 
the stove until the rubber is melted, stirring once in a while, and 




























































ALL TUADK9 


2i. 

don't let it boll or burn. It will take about *3 days to melt. As 
soon as melted stir in about Vt, pound beef or mutton tallow and 
Vz pound beeswax: if it is not black enough add lampblack: wash 
the boots clean and when nearly dry apply the waterproof. If 
the weather is cold work near the stove, rubbing it in well with 
the hands. 

Waterproof Blacking’ for Harness. —Melt in a glazed 
saucepan 2 ounces black resin; add 3 ounces beeswax; when 
melted take from the fire, add % ounce fine lampblack and 14 
dram prussian blue in fine powder; stir them so as to be per : 
fectly mixed: then add spirits of turpentine to form thin paste. 
When cool apply with a linen rag evenly, and polish with a 
brush. 


HINTS FOR TRAPPERS AND HUNTERS. 

Angler's Secret.— 1 . Mix the juice of lovage or smellage 
with any kind of bait. 2. Mullen seed pulverized and mixed 
with dough and sprinkled on the surface of still water intoxi¬ 
cates the fish, and makes them turn up on the top of the water 

Hunters 9 and Trappers' Secret.— Take equal parts of oi 
of rhodium, anise oil, sweet oil, and honey, and mix well. Put a 
few drops on any kind of bait. For musk rats use sweet apples 
or vegetables for bait. For mink use a chicken’s head or a piece 
of fresh meat. 

Skinning Animals. —As soon as possible after an animal is 
dead and dry. attend to skinning. For fur alone, small animals 
should be skinned by beginning at one of the hind feet, slitting 
the skin down to the anus; cutting around this and thence up to 
the other foot. To strip the skin from the tail pull the skin 
back from 2 or 3 of the first joints: tie them firmly with a strong 
cord, and attach it to a strong hook in the wall; then introduce 
a cleft stick between the vertebrae and the skin; then force the 
stick to the extremity and the tail bones will come out of the 
skin. Peel the skin off by drawing it wrong side out over the 
body; leave the fur side in. Larger animals are skinned by cut¬ 
ting from the front of the lower jaw to the anus, and peeling 
(without slitting) the legs if possible: but if inconvenient slit in 
a straight line on the inside of the leg from one foot to the other, 
making a double cross; chop off the feet, and remove the hide as 
before. In removing the skin from the otter and other wide¬ 
tailed animals, rip the skin along the under side of the tail, and 
open it out, stretched fiat on a board. 

Stretching and Drying.— In drying skins it is important 
that they should be stretched tight, like a drum-head. There 
are 3 modes of stretching: The Board Stretcher is of light wood, 
and of various sizes. For a small one prepare a board 2 feet, 3 
inches long. 3 l / ? inches wide at one end, and 2V S inches at the 
other, and % inches thick; bevel it from centre to sides al. 

















































































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most to an edge; round and bevel the small end 1 inch up on tho 
sides; saw this board through the middle, and make a wedge of 
same length and thickness, 1 inch wide at the large end. % 
inches at the other, and drive it between 2 pieces. This is suit¬ 
able for a mink or marten. Two larger sizes, with similar pro¬ 
portions are required for the larger animals. The largest size, 
suitable for the full-grown otter or wolf, should be 5*4 feet long, 
7 inches wide at the large end when fully spread by the wedge, 
and G inches at the small end. For the fox, raccoon, fisher and 
some other animals, the board should be 3 feet 7 inches long, 4*4 
inches wide at widest part, 3 % inches at narrowest, and the 
wedge about the same width as given for a mink. These 
stretchers require that the skin of the animal should not be 
ripped through the belly, but stripped off whole. The skin 
should be drawn over the 2 pieces, stretched and tacked, the 
wedge driven in and all made solid by a tack in the end of the 
tail; hang up to dry. For musk-rat and other small animals, 
take a thin board, 20 inches long, 6 inches wide at one end, 
tapering to 5*4 inches at 6 inches from the small end. beveled 
and rounded as before; stretch the skin on tight and tack. The 
Bpw Stretcher: Take a strip of any elastic wood, such as hick¬ 
ory, birch, elm, etc., bend it into the shape of an ox bow, and 
shove it into the skin, which is drawn tight and fastened by 
splitting down a sliver in the bow, and drawing the skin of the 
lip into it. For curing in this manner a musk-rat skin, for in¬ 
stance, the feet are cut off; the skin is ripped with a knife from 
the centre of the under jaw down the middle of the belly, a little 
beyond the holes left by the forelegs; the skin is next cut loose 
around the lips, ears and eyes, and finally stripped backwards 
off the body. The Hoop Stretcher: The s'kins of large animals 
are best dried by spreading them at full size, in a hoop. Cut a 
stick of hickory, or other flexible wood, long enough to entirely 
surround the skin when bent, or splice together 2 small ones; 
place this in the skin, and lop and tie the ends. The skin of the 
legs must not be ripped in this method. This is the proper 
method of stretching the skin of the deer. When it is dry. it 
may be taken from the hoop, and is ready for packing and trans¬ 
portation. Skins stretched by these methods should "not be dried 
in the sun. nor by the fire, but in a cool place, and sheltered from 
rain. No salt or other preservative is used upon skins intended 
for the market. 

Stuffing' and Mounting Birds.—1. Before skinning, meas¬ 
ure girth and length. From these data an artificial body is con¬ 
structed as follows: On a piece of straight wire, a bunch of ex¬ 
celsior is secured by repeated winding with thread. This bundle 
is molded to resemble the bird’s body; it is attached to the end 
of the wire, the long protruding portion of which serves as a 
foundation for the neck: the extremity of the wire is clipped to a 
point, and forced diagonally upward through the skull, on top of 
which it is clinched flat. Cotton batting is wound about the wire 
between the skull and body, sufficient to fill the skin of the neck. 





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APT, TRADES. 

Paint the inside of the skin with arsenical soap; then draw the 
skin back to envelop the false body; a needle and thread are 
thrust through the nostrils to make a loop for convenience in 
handling; the finest pair of forceps is employed to pull the eye¬ 
lid skin into place; arrange the feathers, and pull up the cotton 
in the orbits. More cotton is pushed down the throat until filled; 
2 pieces'of wire are then sharpened at one extremity; taking the 
wire in one hand and guiding it with the other, shove it into the 
leg from the ball of the foot up alongside the thigh bone, the skin 
being turned back; cotton is then wound about both wire and 
bone to fill the thigh out. and the same process repeated for the 
other side, the ends of the wire below protruding to support the 
bird on the perch; the upper ends are pushed clean through the 
artificial body from below, and clinched on the upper side: this 
secures the legs, which are afterward bent in natural position; 
the bird can now be set up. For small birds, the cut in the breast 
need not be sewn up; a chicken or larger fowl will require a few 
stitches. If the tail feathers are to be spread, a wire is thrust 
<icross the body and through each feather; the wings are then 
gathered closely into the body, and 2 wires, one from each side 
are pushed in diagonally from up, down and through the skin 
of the second joint. The wings are thus held, and the wires, as 
well as that through the tail, are left protruding. A touch of 
glue within the eyelids prepared for the eyes, which may be pur¬ 
chased from taxidermists; for smaller birds, black beads will 
answer. If plain glass beads can be readily obtained, by the aid 
of a little paint they can be made to imitate the eyes of a chick¬ 
en. After the eyes are inserted, a needle is used to pull the lids 
around them arid into place: then, with a fine pair of forceps, 
adjust the feathers, smoothing them with a large camel’s-hair 
brush. Thread must then be wound over the body loosely, be¬ 
ginning at the head, and continuing until all the feathers are 
bound. The bird is left to dry for a day or two, when the thread 
is removed, the ends of the wire cut off close to the body, and the 
work is complete. In ducks, hens, etc., the neck is so "long and 
narrow that‘the skin cannot be drawn over the head with these 
birds; therefore, skin the neck and cut it off: make a cut through 
the skin from the angle of the jaw to the bottom of the piece of 
neck attached to head, and remove the neck, brain, tongue, etc., 
through the opening. 2. A simple manner of stuffing a bird is 
as follows: The entrails are removed, taking care not to injure 
the feathers; then the brain taken out through the mouth, tak¬ 
ing care not to tear the membranes of the bill; then fill the in¬ 
side of the skull and the body with a mixture of pepper, salt and 
alum. Put the bird in a cool place for a short time, then dry be¬ 
fore a fire. Then take out the pepper, etc., and fill the bird with 
some soft substance, and arrange as you wish it to remain. The 
wings and tail can be kept in position with the wire. 

Stiiilin^aml Mounting- Small Animals.—Select a piece 
of wire of such thickness that 4 pieces, introduced into the legs, 
will support the animal. A thinner piece, 2 feet long, is next 


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taken and bent ^ its length into an oval shape smaller than the 
hand, the two ends united together, leaving one end shorter than 
the other: then the wire must be cut the same length as the tail, 
independent of the oval. Wrap the wire in flax, constantly in¬ 
creasing toward the oval; rub the whole with paste to preserve 
the shape. With a small brush put a little of the preparation 
into the tail, and coat the towed wire with the same, and put it 
into the skio of the tail; place the oval end within the body; this 
serves to fix the tai^ to the iron backbone. Take 5 pieces of iron 
wire, the diameter of a straw; 1 a foot longer than the body of 
the animal and 4 others the lengt h of the legs they are to support; 
the point must be sharp at one extremity in a triangular form. 
Form a ring at the unpointed end of the long wire, large enough to 
pass the little finger through, bending the wire back on itself l *4 
turns with round pinchers; form a similar ring on the same 
wire, by one turn, in the part that will come between the ani¬ 
mal’s shoulders. The rest of the wire must be straight and pointed 
triangularly. Having annointed the skin with preservatives, 
fill the hollows of the head with chopped flax; insert one end of 
the long piece of wire into the middle of the skull, and restore the 
head to its place: stuff the skin of the neck with the same, pre¬ 
serving dimensions. The second ring of the wire must corre¬ 
spond with tne pelvis. Next take one of the foot wires and pass 
it behind the bone of the front leg, placing the point which 
comes out at the sole under the highest ball of the foot; then 
draw the bones of the leg up within the skin, and tie the wire to 
the bone of the arm and forearm with pack thread; anoint the 
parts, and twist them with chopped flax. To fix the forelegs 
pass their wires through the little ring of the middle or back 
wire and twist the ends together with pincers. For an animal 
the size of a fox the pieces left to twist should be 5 or 6 inches in 
length. Bind the wires on the under side against the back wire 
and fasten with pack thread; replace the two legs and bend them 
according to the attitude intended. The skin of the shoulders 
and belly are next stuffed, putting sufficient flax under the back 
wire. Sew the anterior part of the opening, preserving the ap¬ 
pearance of the scapulae, and that thickness"which appears at 
the junction of the shoulder and bones of the fore foot The 
wires for the hind legs should be longer than for the fore legs 
and be inserted into the paw loosely fastened to the thigh ami 
leg bone, and the flax applied. If the whole is bound round with 
thread it will prevent slipping up when the leg is placed within 
the skin. Pass the extremities of the wires of the hind legs 
through the second ring of the back wire, which ring should be 
at the pel vis; bend the ends and twist them in opposite direc* 
tions around the ring. To give strength pass a piece of pack 
thread several times around these three wires and tie it. Re- 
place the body with chopped flax, laying it. under the wires, pre- 
serving the general appearance of the animal; then with a tri- 
angle pointed needle and strong silk, sew up the incision down 
the belly; pass the needle from the inner surface, dividing the 
hairs to prevent their being drawn in with the edge of the skin- 





















































































When the skin is sewed up turn the subject in all directions, and 
press into correct shape, restoring the appearance of the mus¬ 
cles. Next take a board and drill 4 holes the same size as the 
foot wires at a distance to suit the position of the feet; insert 
the wires of the feet through the holes, and with pincers draw 
them down close to the board, so that the soles remain firm; 
bend the wires on the under side of the board and clinch with 
short nails or brads. The specimen being erect, give proper 
position to the head, imitating the muscles by stuffing in cotton 
at the orifices. Put in the eyes while the eyelids are fresh. 
Place cotton inside the lips, and secure by pins; distend the 
nostrils with cotton closely pressed.‘and the flesh saturated with 
the preservative. If the ears are to be erect, pass a connecting 
thread through the base of each, tightening it until sufficiently 
near to each other. If the ears are large, pasteboard of the same 
form may be placed within and fastened around the edges with 
small pins. Anoint the ears, nose, lips and paws with a brush 
dipped in spirits of turpentine, and afterwards wipe the hair 
with cotton. Repeat this 7 or 8 times at intervals of some days. 
When quite dry the wire which passes from beyond the head 
may be cut. 

Stuffing', Preparation for.— Camphor 1 ounce, corrosive 
sublimate 1 ounce, alum 14 ounce, sulphur 1 ounce; all pow¬ 
dered and mixed. 2 . Tanner’s bark, dried and powdered, 2 
ounces, burnt alum 1 ounce, snuff 1 ounce; mix, and add arsenic 
\i ounce, sulphur 1 dram, camphor % ounce. Arsenic 4 
ounces, tanner’s bark 8 ounces; mix and reduce to powder. 
Sift fine; add camphor (reduced to powder with spirits of wine) 
2 ounces, musk 30 grains. Keep in a closed jar. 4 . (Arsenical 
soap.) Camphor 5 drams, arsenic 4 ounces, white soap 4 ounces, 
carbonate of potash 12 ounces, air-slacked lime 4 ounces; make 
a stiff paste with a little water. 






Tanning With the Hair On.— First scrape off 


the fat 


with a blunt knife to avoid cutting the hide. This should be 
done on a log having a couple of legs on one end, like a trestle, 
the other end resting on the ground. After the fat is cleaned off 
take the brains of the animal, or of any other recently killed, and 
work them into the hide; this renders it pliable. Take 1 spoon¬ 
ful of alum. 2 of saltpeter; pulverize and mix; sprinkle on the 
flesh side. If the hair side is greasy a little weak lye will take it 
out. Yellow ochre mixed with the brains gives a fine color to 
the under side. The whites of several eggs or the soaking of the 
skin (4 day in oil or lard is said to produce the same effect as 
brains. This process is good for deerskins, sheepskins and all 
small furs. 

Tanning Without the Hair.— Flesh it with a dull knife, 
and grain by scraping with a sharp instrument; then soak in 
pure water several days, and afterward in lime-water until the 
hair pulls out easily; remove the hair by scraping backward 
and replace the skin in fresh weak lime-water. Altogether the 
skin should be in lime-water 2 or 3 weeks, changing the water 


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DEPARTMENT V 


every 4 or 5 days. Take out, scrape, trim, rinse in clean water, 
and put in a mixture of wneat bran and water: after 2 weeks 
transfer to a mixture of alum, salt, and water; stir well, and re¬ 
place for a day or two in the bran mixture; remove to a dry 
room; stretch for a while, and then soak in warm water. While 
soaking prepare a paste in the following proportions, increasing 
or decreasing quantity as necessary; Salt l / 2 pound, alum 1 
pound 3 ounces, wheat flour 3 pounds, yolks of 16 eggs; mix 
with water, dissolving first the alum, then the salt. This is to 
be used in the next step, a little of the paste to a great deal of 
water. Take the skin and place it in a tub containing this prep¬ 
aration beaten to a froth; tramp and work well; then remove; 
stretch dry, and lastly run over with a warm flat iron. This 
process, though slow, makes a splendid leather, and is good for 
all small animals—dogs, sheep, calf, etc. 



THE PAINTER AND DECORATOR. 


PAINT5. 

In this department will bo found recipes and formulas for 
paints, polishes, stains, bronzes, japans, lacquers, varnishes, and 
waterproofing materials for cloth, etc. 

To Mix.— Before the colors can be applied they must be mixed 
with linseed oil or spirits of turpentine or certain proportions of 
each. For inside work, walls, etc., flat colors are used princi¬ 
pally, which are simply the paints mixed with turpentine alone, 
which dries almost immediately, and must be applied carefully. 
The base (usually white lead) for ordinary work must first be 
mixed with the oil; then the tint color added until the proper 
tint has been accomplished; then add the dryer, either turpen¬ 
tine or japan. A small quantity of the mixed color should be re¬ 
served for a guide, in case it is desired to make up an extra 
quantity of the color. The paint should be strained before use, 
and be of the consistency to spread easily, care being exercised 
not to get either too thick or too thin. The following tables will 
give the proportions by weight in mixing paints, also the colors 
needed to produce certain desired tints: 

TABLE i. 

100 parts white lead require.'. 12 parts oil 

100 parts zinc white require. 14 parts oil 

100 parts chrome green require. .. .\ 15 parts oil 

100 parts chrome yellow require. 19 parts oil 

100 parts vermilion require . 25 parts oil 

100 parts light red require. 31 parts oil 

100 parts madder lake require. G2 parts oil 

100 parts yellow ochre require. 66 parts oil 

100 parts light ochre require. 72 parts oil 




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.ALL, TRADES. 


100 parts Berlin blue require.112 parts oil 

100 parts ivory black require.112 parts oil 

100 parts cobalt .,.125 parts oil 

100 parts florentine brown .150 parts oil 

100 parts burnt terra sienna require.181 parts oil 

100 parts raw terra sienna require.140 parts oil 

TABLE II—TO MIX PAINTS FOR TINTS. 

Red and black make.:.Brown 

Lake and white make.Rose 

White and brown make .Chestnut 

White, blue, and lake make..Purple 

Blue and lead color make.Pearl 

White and carmine make.Pink 

Indigo and lampblack make.Silver gray 

White and lampblack make..Lead color 

Black and Venetian red make.Chocolate 

White and green make.Bright green 

Purple and white make.French white 

Light green and black make..'.Dark green 

White and green make.Pea green 

White and emerald green make. Brilliant green 

Red and yellow make.Orange 

White and yellow make.Straw color 

White, blue, and black make..Pearl gray 

White, lake, and vermilion make.Flesh color 

Umber, white, and Venetian red make.Drab 

White, yellow, and Venetian red make.Cream 

Red, blue, black, and red make.Olive 

Yellow, white, and a little Venetian reel make.Buff 

Combinations of green and white or black make the various 
tints of green 

TINTING. 

Lead Color is to be made with blue-black and lampblack, 
heightened with indigo or Prussian blue. 

Lilac is made with the same tints, and purple lake or Indian 
red. 

Flesh Color is made with lakes, carmine, and a little blue, 
with some yellow. 

Bnff Color is made with a little chrome yellow, yellow ochre, 
and white. 

Carnations, of carmine or scarlet lake, and the best and 
clearest dry white. Perhaps the damar varnish, used so as to 
dry without gloss, would be the best vehicle for such delicate 
colors, in which carmines and lakes are used. 

Orange.— Vermillion and chrome yellow, and cheaper orange 
mineral and Indian red. 



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218 


DEPARTMENT V. 


Bronze Green.— Chrome green, subdued with burnt umber. 

Olive.— Umber and iine yellow ochre or stone ochre. Where 
the ochre predominates mixed with white, a fine Portland stone 
color is obtained. 

Freestone Color.— Made with purple, brown, yellow ochre, 
and a little blue-black and white. 

Chocolate Color.— Spanish browm or Venetian red and black. 


HIXING PAINTS. 


A Beautiful White Paint.— For inside work, wffiich ceases 
to smell and dries in a few r hours. Add 1 pound of frankincense 
to 2 quarts of spirits of turpentine; dissolve it over a clear fire, 
strain it and bottle for use; then add 1 pint of this mixture to 
4 pints of bleached linseed oil, shake them well together, grind 
white lead in spirits of turpentine and strain it; then add suffi¬ 
cient of the lead to make it proper for painting; if too thick in 
using, thin with turpentine, it being suitable for the best inter¬ 
nal work on account of its superiority and expense. 

For a Pure White Paint.— Nut oil is the best; if linseed 
oil is used, add % of turpentine. 

To Mix Common White Paint.— Mix or grind white lead 
in linseed oil to the consistency of paste, add turpentine in the 
proportion of 1 quart to a gallon of oil; but these proportions 
must be varied according to circumstances. Remember to strain 
your color for the better sort of work. If the work is exposed to 
the sun, use more turpentine for the ground color to prevent its 
blistering. 

For Knotting.— Mix white or red lead pow’der in strong 
glue size and apply it warm. 

Common Flesh Color.— Stain your white lead with red 
lead, and mix w r ith oil and turps. 

Fine Flesh Color.— It is composed of wffiite lead, lake and 
vermilion. 

A Beautiful Color for Carriages, Etc.— Mix carmine 
lake with black japan. 

Cream Color.— This is a mixture of chrome yellow, the best 
English Venetian red, w hite lead, and red lead in oil. 

Pearl Gray.— White lead with equal portions of Prussian 
blue and lampblack, mixed with oil and turps. 

Fawn Color. —Grind some burnt and raw r terra sienna very 
fine. Two or 3 pounds of this is sufficient to stain white lead for 
a large building. This color is of a superior shade, and very ex¬ 
cellent for inside work. 

Blue.— Grind Prussian blue in turps: other blue very fine in 
linseed oil, and mix it with white paint to the tint required 




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ALL TRADES 


219 


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Buff.— This is a mixture of French yellow chrome yellow 
and white lead, tinged with a little Venetian red, oil and turps. 

Straw.— A mixture of chrome yellow and white lead, oil and 
turps. 

Drab. — 1 . Raw and burnt umber and white lead, with a little 
Venetian red, linseed oil, and turps. 2. Burnt umber and white 
lead, with a little Venetian red, oil and turps as before. 

Steel. —Mix white lead, Prussian blue, fine lake and verdigris 
in such proportions as to produce the required color. 

Purple.— White lead, Prussian blue and vermilion or lake 
with oil and turps. 

"Violet.— Is composed of vermilion mixed with blue-black and 
a little white. v 

French Gray.- White lead and Prussian blue, tinged with 
vermilion; and for the last coat substitute carmine for the ver¬ 
milion; mix with oil and turps. 

Silver.— Use white lead, indigo, and a small portion of blue- 
black. as the shade may require. 

Gold. —Mix Naples yellow or patent yellow with a small quan¬ 
tity of orange chrome and a little Spanish white. 

Bark. Chestnut.— Mix red ochre and black; use yellow ochre 
When you require to lighten the color, in oil. 

Salmon. —White lead, tinged with the best English Venetian 
red, oil and turps. 

Peach Blossom.— White lead, tinged with orpiment; mixed 
with oil and turps. 

Drab.— 1 . White lead with a little Prussian blue and French 
yellow, linseed oil and turps. 2. White lead with a little French 
yellow and lampblack, linseed oil and turps. 3. White lead with 
a little chrome green and blue-black. 

Eea<l.— This is a mixture of lampblack and white lead, with a 
little litharge. 

Chocolate.— Mix lampblack and Venetian red with a little 
red lead or litharge to harden the color and give a drying qual¬ 
ity. The colors must be ground and mixed with boiled oil and a 
little turps. 

Bark Red for Common Purposes.— Mix English Vene¬ 
tian red in boiled oil with a little red lead and litharge, to give a 
drying quality. 

Orange.- Mix red lead and French yellow with linseed oil and 
turps, or use deep chrome yellow. 

Bright Yellow for Floors, Etc. —White lead and linseed 
oil mixed with some French yellow, and a little chrome yellow 
to brighten it; some red lead, burnt white vitriol, and litharge 
added to it to give it a very drying quality. This color mixed 
with equal parts of boiled oil and turpentine and used very thin 




























































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220 


DEPARTMENT V. 


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Dark Yellow. --Mix French yellow-in boiled oil, adding to it 
a little red lead and litharge, to give the paint a drying quality. 

Eight Yellow.—1. This is a mixture of French yellow, 
chrome yellow, and white lead, with oil and turps. 2. French 
yellow, white lead, and red lead. 3. Grind raw terra sienna m 
turps and linseed oil; mix. with white lead. If the color is re¬ 
quired of a warmer cast, add a little burnt terra sienna ground 
in turps. 

Olive Green.— A suitable, cheap and handsome color for out¬ 
side work, such as doors, carts, wagons, etc. 1. Grind sepa¬ 
rately Prussian blue and French yellow in boiled oil, then mix 
to the tint required with a little burnt white vitriol to act as a 
drier. 2. Black and blue mixed with yellow, in such quantities 
as to obtain the colors or shades required. For distemper use 
indigo and yellow pink mixed with whiting or white lead pow¬ 
der. 3. This is a mixture of Prussian blue, French yellow, a 
small portion of Turkey umber, and a little burnt vitriol; ground 
the same way. 4. (In Oil.) Mix Prussian blue and chrome yel¬ 
low; grind the same. 5. (Another shade.) A mixture of Prus¬ 
sian blue and French yellow, with a small quantity of white 
lead and Turkey umber and burnt white vitriol; grind the same. 


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Light Green. —White mixed with verdigris. A variety of 
shades may be obtained by using blue and yellow with white 
lead. 



Grass Green.—1. Yellow mixed with verdigris. 2. Mix 1 
pound of verdigris with 2 pounds of white lead. Walnut oil is 
the best for this purpose. 

Invisible Green i'or Outside Wor'i.— Mix lampblack and 
French yellow with burnt white vitriol. These colors mix in 
boiled oil. Burnt vitriol is the best drier for greens, as it is 
powerful and colorless, and consequently will not injure tb 
color. 



To Paint a Bronze.— Grind good black with chrome yellow 
and boiled oil; apply with a brush, and when nearly dry use the 
bronze powder at certain parts and the edges also; the effect will 
be a brassy hue. 

' A Good Imitation of Gold.— Mix white lead, chrome yel¬ 
low, and burnt sienna, until the proper shade is obtained. 

Tar Paint for Fences, Roofs, Etc.— Common tar mixed 
with whiting, Venetian red or French yellow, according to the 
color required. This shoxtld be warmed in a large iron kettle in 
the open air. and applied with a large painting brush. It is an 
excellent preservative of the wood, and looks well for rough 
work. 



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Paint Dryers.— Litharge. This is a useful dryer, and may 
be used in ali kinds of paints, except greens and very delicate 
colors. White Vitriol or copperas. This turns into water, 
especially when used in black paints; and is almost useless for 
any color till the water of crystallization is evaporated, and then 
























































ALL TRADES. 


221 


it becomes a powerful dryer, and may be used for every delicate 
color, as it is perfectly transparent; but when used in its raw 
state in white paint has the effect of turning it yellow. Sugar 
of Lead. This is a very useful and transparent dryer; not so 
powerful as white vitriol, but it may be used with it to advan¬ 
tage. 

Milk Paint for Indoor Work. —The quantity for 100 
square feet: One quart skimmed milk, 3 ounces of lime, 3 ounces 
of linseed or poppy oil, iy 2 pounds of Spanish white or whiting; 
put the lime into a clean bucket, add sufficient of the milk to 
slake the lime, add the oil a few drops at a time, stirring the 
mixture with a flat stick till the whole of the oil is incorporated 
in the mass; then add the remainder of the milk, and afterward 
the Spanish white or whiting, finely powdered and sifted gently 
over the mixture by degrees. Curded milk will do for the pur¬ 
pose, but it must not be sour. One coat of this will do for ceil¬ 
ings and staircases in general; 2 coats or more for new wood. 
Where color is required you may use powdered umber, ochres, 
chromes, greens, blues, pinks, etc., ground in milk. For partic¬ 
ular work strain the color through a hair sieve. 

»liiine White wash i—Lime whitewash is made from lime well 
slaked. Dissolve 2 l / 2 pounds of alum in boiling water and add it 
to every pailful of whitewash. Lime whitewash should be used 
very thin, and \yhp~'. it is sufficiently bound on the wall by means 
of alum, two thin scats will cover the work better. Most white- 
washers apply their wash too thick, and do not mix a propor¬ 
tionate quantity of alum to bind it, consequently the oj>eration 
of the brush rubs off the first coat in various parts and leaves an 
uneven surface, and the original smooth surface of the wall is 
entirely destroj r ed. 

Italian Marble. —This looks bold and is well adapted for 
columns, etc., and is easy to imitate. The ground a light buff. 
For the graining colors prepare a rich, warm buff, made in the 
following manner: Mix stiff in boiled oil, white lead, and good 
stone ochre, and tinge with vermilion, then grind some burnt 
terra sienna very fine in boiled oil, and put it into another pot; 
mix some pure white stiff in oil, and keep this separate. Thin 
these colors with turpentine, have ready a brush for the buff and 
another for the terra sienna. Proceed to worit as follows: Take 
the brush intended for the buff moderately full of color and dab 
it on freely and carefully in different patches, some of them 
larger than others, and varying them as much as possible. When 
these are laid on take the other brush and fill in-with the terra 
sienna the spaces between; as soon as this is done, take a dry 
duster or softener and blend the edges together, making it ap¬ 
pear as soft as possible. Proceed in this manner till the whole 
is finished, then take a hair pencil and draw a few thin white 
veins over the work, varying them as much as is necessary; take 
another pencil for the terra sienna, and run a few thin lines in* 
termixing with the whole; varnish when dry. 




























































D 


To Imitate Oranite.— For the ground color, stain your 
white lead to a light lead color, with lampblack and a little rose- 
pink. Throw on black spots with a graniting machine, and fill 
up with ihe white a little before the ground is dry. 

A Cheap Oak Varnish.— Two quarts of boiled oil, 1 % 
pounds of litharge. % pound gum shellac. All boiled together 
and stirred up till dissolved, then take off the fire and add 2 
quarts of turps. When settled, strain into a bottle and cork for 
use. 

Common Oil Varnish.— Take 1 gallon of quick-drying oil, 
2 pounds of resin, and 1 quart of turpentine: put the resin with 
the drying oil into a varnish kettle, and let it dissolve in a gentle 
heat; take it from the fire and gradually pour hi the spirits of 
turpentine. If too thick add more of the turpentine. 

Transparent Varnish for Pictures. —Take the white of 
4 eggs and 2 ounces of loaf sugar; beat them up in lime water to 
the proper consistency of varnishing. 

For Varnishing on Wood, Fnpainted. —Quarter of a 
pint of wood naphtha, M pint spirits of wine, 4 ounces of ben¬ 
zoin, 4 ounces of orange shellac, added all together. If not thick 
enough with those ingredients for your purpose, add more of the 
gums benzoin and shellac. 

Waterproof Varnish, for Viiien or Calico.— One pint 

of turpentine, iy 2 pints of linseed oil, 7 ounces of litharge, 1 
ounce of sugar of lead. Strain it, apply with a brush, and dry 
in the sun or in a warm place. 

Instructions.— Oil of turpentine deadens the color of paints; 
varnishes, copal, etc., brighten the color. 

TABLE III. 


J. 


1 gallon priming color will cover .50 square yards. 

1 gallon white zinc will cover.50 square yards. 

1 gallon white lead will cover.44 square yards. 

1 gallon lead color will cover.50 square yards. 

1 gallon black paint will cover.50 square yards. 

^ gallon stone color will cover.44 square yards. 

1 gallon yellow paint will cover.44 square yards. 

1 gallon blue color will cover.45 square yards. 

1 gallon green paint will cover.45 square yards. 

1 gallon bright emerald green will cover.25 square yards. 

1 gallon bronze green will cover.45 square yards. 

Anti-Corrosive Paint.— Take equal parts, by weight, of 
whiting and white lead, with half the quantity fine sand, gravel 
or road-dust, and sufficient coloring matter. This mixture is 
made in water, and can be used as a water color; but it is more 
dm’able to dry it in cakes after mixing, and then use it as an oil 
paint by grinding in linseed oil. The preparation of oil for this 
purpose is 12 parts, by weight, of linseed oil, 1 part boiled lin¬ 
seed oil. and 3 parts sulphate of lime, mixed; 1 gallon of this oil 
to 7 pounds powder- 


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Artificial Asphalt uni. —Coal tar, by gentle evaporation, 
assumes the appearance of mineral pitch, and at last, by a com¬ 
bination of the process, attains the consistence of asphaltum 
Tins artificnil asphaltum is found to answer nearly all the pur¬ 
poses of the natural production in the coarse black varnishes 
such as are used for coach-tops, various japanned wares, and 
other common articles which require protection from rust. The 
artificial asphaltum has a feature so nearly resembling the nat¬ 
ural. that it is difficult to distinguish them by external inspec¬ 
tion; the artificial is blacker than the real asphaltum. r l he most 
certain method of detecting the difference between them, is by 
the smell. Artificial asphaltum must be rejected for etching- 
ground. as it contains ammonia, which will be affected by nitric 
acid. It appears, also, that genuine Syrian asphaltum is the 
proper substance for etching ground; or Burgundy pitch, for 
such purpose, is scarcely less important. 

Brunswick Black.— Take of asphaltum 2 pounds, oil of 
turpentine 2 pints, boiled linseed oil, i/ 2 pound. Melt first the 
asphaltum, to which add the linseed oil, and afterwards the oil 
of turpentine. This varnish is used for grates, and other com¬ 
mon purposes; it is best applied warm, or even hot. 

Black Japan Varnisb.— Take of asphaltum 3 ounces, 
boiled linseed oil, 4 pints, burnt amber (in powder). 4 ounces. 
Oil of turpentine, a sufficient quantity to make the varnish of a 
proper consistence. Melt first the asphaltum, to which add the 
linseed oil gradually, it being first made hot; then add the burnt 
amber, and lastly the oil of turpentine. A useful varnish for 
leather. 

Blue.— Blue black. V 2 cwt.; whiting, 1 cwt.; wood-dust 2 
cwt.: blue, y 2 cwt., lime water, 12 gallons; factitious linseed oil 
to grind. 

Brown.— Venetian red or Spanish brown 1 hundredweight, 
road dust 3 hundredweight, common soot 28 pounds, lime water 
15 gallons, factitious linseed oil to grind. 

Cream.— First coat: White lead, in oil, 66.66 parts, French 
yellow 3.33 parts, Japan varnish 1.33 parts, raw oil 28 parts, 
spirits of turpentine 2.25 parts. Second coat: White lead, in 
oil. 70 parts, French yellow 3.33 parts, Japan varnish 1.33 parts, 
raw oil 24.5 parts, spirits of turpentine 2.25 parts. One square 
yard of new brick work requires for first coat 75 pounds; second 
coat, 3 pounds. 

I>rab. — 1 . White lead with a little Prussian blue and French 
yellow, linseed oil and turps. 2. White lead with a little Prus¬ 
sian blue and lampblack, linseed oil and turps. 

Flexible.— Cut soap into slices, and to every % pound add 2 
quarts boiling water, and while hot mix with 62 pounds oil 
paint; excellent for canvas. 

Fireproof Paint.— Take a sufficient quantity of water for 
use: add as much potash as can be dissolved therein. When tm 





























































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water will dissolve no more potash, stir into the solution first, a 
quantity of flour paste of consistency of painter's size; second, a 
sufficiency of pure clay to render it of the consistency of cream. 
Apply with a painter's brush. The above will admit of any color 
ing you please 

Green.— Lime water 6 gallons, whiting and road dust, of each 



oil and linseed oil. 2. A yellow ocher and wet blue, of each 1 
hundredweight, road dust iy 2 hundredweight, blue blade 10 
pounds, lime water 0 gallons, prepared fish oil 4 gallons, pre¬ 
pared residue and linseed oils, of each 7*4 gallons. 3 (Pea). Take 
1 pound genuine mineral green. 1 pound precipitate of copper, 
lYz pounds blue verditer. 3 pounds white lead, 3 ounces sugar of 
lead and 3 ounces burnt white vitriol; mix these in linseed oil; 
grind fine; it will produce a bright mineral pea green paint: pre¬ 
serve a blue tint and keep any length of time in any climate, by 
putting water over it; to use for house or ship painting, take 1 
pound of green paint with some pale boiled oil; mix together: 
this will produce a strong pea green paint. The tint may be al¬ 
tered by adding a proportionate quantity of white lead to the 
green, ground in linseed oil, and thinned witn spirits of turpen¬ 
tine for use. It may also be used for Venetian window blinds, by 
adding white lead and mixing the color with boiled oil. For all 
the aforesaid preparations it will retain a blue tint. 


How to Hill Grease Spots Before Painting'. —Wash 

over smoky or greasy parts with saltpeter, or very thin lime 
whitewash. If soap-suds are used, they must be washed off thor¬ 
oughly, as they prevent the paint from drying hard. 


Lead Color.— Whiting 1 hundredweight, blue black 7 pounds, 
white lead, ground in oil 28 pounds, road dust 56 pounds, lime 
water 5 gallons, prepared residue oil 2^4 gallons. 

Metallic Paint.— Break common resin into dust or small 
pieces’ and then dissolve in benzoline or turpentine until the so¬ 
lution acquires the consistency of syrup; or equal parts of each 
of the above spirits, or hydrocarbon that will dry and combine 
with drying oils can be used instead of benzoline or turpentine. 
When the solution is complete, it is gradually added to oxide of 
zinc, which has previously been made into paste with boiled lin¬ 
seed oil, until the whole mixture acquires the consistency of 
paint suitable for use; a white paint is thus produced of a dura¬ 
ble and glossy character. Other pigments, such as sulphate of 
barytes, oxide of iron, Brunswick green or red lead can be added 
to make any desired color of paint. One great advantage of its 
_ use, it is said, is its effectual resistance to heat and moisture. 1 1 
never blisters or cracks, even under the hottest sun or in the most 
inclement weather. 


Outside Work, Durable Paint for.—1. Take some char¬ 
coal and pulverize it fiue; add sufficient litharge as a drier and 


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levigate with linseed oil; a good black paint is produced, to 
which, if yellow ochre is added, an excellent green will ensue, 
which is preferable to the bright green used by painters for gar¬ 
den work, and does not fade in the sun. 2. For weather-worn 
weather-boarding take y z common whiting and *4 white lead; 
throw in small portions red lead and chrome yellow to overcome 
the blackness of the wood, or add umber for a drab color. Fresh 
paint is always best. Where persons wish to do their own 
painting it is sometimes best to buy the paint dry. Take a 
board with a smooth surface, find a muller 3 inches in diameter 
at one end and conveniently shaped to hold with both hands, and 
you can mix up the paint readily. Use flaxseed oil; a little tur¬ 
pentine will make the paint flow freely from the brush. Small 
portions of Venetian red and lampblack will do for dark colors. 

Paint for Rough Woodwork.— Six pounds melted pitch, 
1 pound linseed oil, and 1 pound yellow ochre. 

Phosphorescent. — 1 . Heat strontium theo-sulphate 15 min¬ 
utes over a Bunsen lamp, and then 5 minutes over a blast lamp. 
2. Heat equal parts of strontium carbonate and lac sulphuris 
gently 5 minutes, then strongly 25 minutes over a Bunsen lamp, 
then over a blast lamps minutes.. 3. Precipitate strong aque¬ 
ous solution of strontium chloride by means of sulphuric acid; 
dry in a current of hydrogen; then over a Bunsen lamp for 10 
minutes and 20 minutes over a blast lamp. Mix any of the above 
with pure melted paraffine for use as a paint, and expose for a 
time to sunlight. The two former yield a greenish phosphores¬ 
cence in the dark, the latter a bluish light. 4 . Take oyster 
shells and clean them with warm water; put them into the fire 
X A hotir; then take them out; when cold powder into a crucible 
in alternate layers with flowers of sulphur: put on the lid and 
cement with sand made into a stiff paste with beer; when dry 
put into the fire and bake 1 hour; wait until cold before opening 
the lid. The product ought to be white. Separate all gray parts. 
Make a sifter in the following manner; Take a jam pot; put a 
piece of fine muslin loosely across it; tie round with string; put 
the powder into the top and rake about with a bit of stick until 
only the coarse remains. Open the pot and you will find a very 
fine powder. Mix into a thin paint with gum water. Two thin 
applications are better than one thick one. 

Reddish Brown.— 1. (Dark.) For a common purpose. Mix 
Venetian red in boiled oil, with a little red lead and litharge to 
give a drying quality. 2. (Lighter.) Mix equal parts Venetian 
red and red lead in boiled oil and turps. 3. (Imitation Vermil¬ 
ion.) Grind together in oil. red lead and rose pink. 4 . (Deep 
Red.) Mix in oil, vermilion with a dust of ventian red or red 
lead. 

Superior Paint for Brick Houses. —To lime whitewash 
add, for a fastener, sulphate of zinc, and shade with any color 
you choose, as yellow ochre, Venetian red, etc. It outlasts oil 
paint. 


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DEPARTMENT V. 


Steel. —Mix ceruse, Prussian blue, fine lac and vermilion witfc, 
oil and turps. 


Stone. —Lime water 4 gallons, whiting 1 hundredweight, 
white lead ground in oil 28 pounds, road-dust. 56 pounds, pre¬ 
pared fish, linseed, and residue oils, of each 3 gallons. 


Straw.— A mixture of chrome yellow, white lead, oil. and 
turps. 



To Harden Wood. —One often desires to impart the hard¬ 
ness of oak to shutters, doors, etc., made of soft wood. This is 
often done by giving them a first coating of common gray paint, 
and then sifting some very fine sand over it. When a dry coat of 
paint is laid on, after which the surface becomes so hard that it 
will resist the action of the sun and rain for many years without 
undergoing the slightest alteration. 

The Art of Painting: on Glass.— The only difference be¬ 
tween ordinary painting and painting on glass is, that in the 
latter all transparent colors are used instead of opaque ones and 
the color is ground up with turpentine and varnish instead of 
oil. In painting upon glass it is necessary to place the picture 
between the artist and the light to enable him to see the effect, 
the light having the property of casting a yellowish tinge unon 
all colors so exposed. To persons having a knowledge of color¬ 
ing, this art is easily learned, and affords a handsome remunera¬ 
tion. 2. One ounce of clear resin; melt it in an iron vessel; 
when all is melted, let it cool a little, but not harden; then 
add oil of turpentine sufficient to keep it in a liquid state. When 
cold, use it with ground colors in oil. 

To Imitate Ground Glass.— 1 . Two ounces of spirits oi 
^cilts, 2 ounces of oil of vitriol, 1 ounce of sulphate of copper x 
ounce of gum arabic, mixed together, and dabbed on with’ a 
brush. 2. Dab your squares regularly over with putty; when 
dry, go over them again, the imitation will be executed. 3 . 
Mix Lpsom salts with porter, and apply it with a brush. 

To Paint in Imitation of Ground Glass. —Grind and 

mix white lead in % of boiled oil, and M of spirits of turpentine; 
and t<? .give the mixture a very drying quality, add sufficient 
quantities of burnt white vitriol and sugar of lead. The color 
must be made exceedingly thin, and put on the panes of glass 
with a * ar £ e painting-brush in as even a manner as possible. 
When a number of the panes are t hus painted, take a dry duster 
quite new, dab the ends of the bristles on the glass in quick suc¬ 
cession, till you give it an uniform appearance; repeat this oper¬ 
ation till the work appears very soft, and it will then appear like 
glass. When the windows require fresh painting get 
the old coat off first by using strong pearl-ash water. 

Wlilte.— 1 . The white destined for varnish or oil, requires a 
metallic oxide, which gives a body to the color. Take ceruse- 
reduced to powder; grind it with oil of pinks, and M ounce sul¬ 
phate of zinc for each pound oil. Apply the second coat withovr 

























































AlL TRADES. 


227 


the sulphate of zinc, and let dry; cover the whole with a stratum 
of sandarac varnish. This color is durable and brilliant. Boiled 
linseed oil may be employed instead of oil of pinks, but the color 
will injure the purity of white. 2. Pure white oxide of lead, 
ground with a little essence, added to oil of pinks, and mixed 
with gallipot varnish. The color may be mixed with essence 
diluted with oil, and without varnish, which is reserved for the 
two last coatings. If for a lively white, heighten with a little 
Prussian blue or indigo, or prepared black; the latter gives it a 
gray coat. Pure white lead is reserved for valuable articles. If 
a durable white is required, grind with a little essence, and mix 
it with sandarac varnish. 

Yellow, for Floors.— White lea<3 and linseed oil, mixed 
with some French yellow and a little chrome yellow to brighten 
it. and some red lead, burnt white vitriol ana litharge added, to 
give it a drying quality. Mix with equal parts boiled oil and 
turpentine, and use thin. ( See Glue Paint for Kitchen Floors , 
Cleaning and Repairing-Household Recipes.) 


COMPOUND COLORS. 

These are formed by mixing two only, and will be the best and 
the richest. 

Size.— The best size for distemper colors is made from the 
clippings of the skin of animals, which must be submitted to 
strong boiling. Take the quantity necessary, put it into an iron 
kettle, and till it with water; let it stand 24 hours, till the pieces 
are thoroughly soaked. Let the size boil 5 hours, occasionally 
taking off the scum. When it is sufficiently boiled, take it from 
the fire, and strain it through a coarse cloth. If the size is to be 
kept for a length of time, dissolve 2 or 3 pounds of alum in boil¬ 
ing water, and add to every pailful. The size must then be boil¬ 
ed again till it becomes very strong; it must be strained a second 
time, put into a cool place, and it will keep good several months. 

Brilliant Peach Blossom.— Orange lead (orpiment) and 
whiting, when properly mixed, composes a beautiful and unfad¬ 
ing color; it is much used by paper-stainers. Dissolve whiting 
in water: then grind very fine in water a small quantitv of or¬ 
ange lead, and mix with the whiting: add sufficient size to the 
mixture, and strain it through a sieve, and put into a cool place 
till fit for use. This color must be worked in a jelly, as the or¬ 
ange lead is heavy, and would otherwise separate from the other 
parts and sink to the bottom in a pure state. 

'Salmon Color.— An excellent salmon color can be made by 
dissolving whiting in water, and tinging it with the best Eng¬ 
lish Venetian red, finely ground in water. A little Venetian red 
mixed with lime whitewash, and a proportionate quantity of 
alum, will answer very well for common purposes. It is impor¬ 
tant, when English red is required, that you obtain it genuine. 

























































228 


DEPARTMENT V. 


as a spurious article is frequently sold for it. which, when used, 
spoils the intended effect when applied to line with. 

Dissolve in water, separately, whiting and rose pink, 
mix them to the texture required; strain the color through a 
sieve, and bind with size. 

Liilnc. —-Take a small quantity of indigo finely ground in wa¬ 
ter and mix it with whiting till it produces a dark gray, then 
add to the mixture some rose pink: well mix and strain to the 
color and a beautiful lilac will be the result. 

Light (Jray-A small quantity of lampblack mixed with 
whiting composes a gray: more or less black, of course, regu¬ 
lates the shade. With whiting, therefore, mixed with black in 
varying proportions, a wide range of shades may be obtained, 
from the darkest to the lightest gray. 

French Gray.— Whiting predominates in this color; it is 
treated as other grays, but wit h this difference, that it admits of 
lake instead of black. Take the quantity, therefore, of whiting 
necessary and soak it in water, then add the Prussian blue and 
lake, which have been finely ground in water; the quantity of 
each of those colors should, of course, be proportioned to the 
warmth of color required. This is a handsome and delicate color 
for walls. Either of the preceding grays will answer for the 
first coat, as the French gray will cover upon it very well. Rose 
pink may be substituted, but it does not make so brilliant a color 
neither is it so durable. 


Orange Color for Walls ami Stables.— Use 2 pounds of 
green copperas dissolved in hot water, just sufficient to dissolve 
it: nux it well with 8 gallons of fresh lime-wash. Stir it well 
\vhile using. 3. this is a mixture of whiting, French yellow, or 
Dutch pink and orange lead. These ingredients may be propor¬ 
tioned according to taste. This color cannot be worked except in 
a size-nelly, as the orange lead is a color which has great body. 

BulT.—A good buff may be produced by dissolving separately 
whiting and French yellow in water; a little English Venetian 
red must be added to give the yellow a warm cast; mix with 
size and strain as before directed. 

An excellent Green for Walls.-l. Take 2 pounds of 

mineial green and 6 pounds of good green verditer: mix them 
together and grind in water; mix with size, and work the color 

vLlt'V 1 h Ki S a j elly - This green has a good body and is 

very durable. 2. Mix a solution of common salt and blue vit- 

b y p V, tf c °PP er P lates therein, a green precipi- 
tate will be gradually formed, which may be mixed with whiting 
and then spread on a board to dry. :5. (Good and Cheap.) Take 
8 pounds Roman vitriol and 2 pounds of whiting, boil t hem in a 
brass or copper kettle in 3 gallons of water 1 hour stirring the 
mixture the whole time till thoroughly dissolved. Pour it into 

•J'nrf iei iiP an ' a P tl let stand several days. Decant the water, 
and mix the sediment with size; apply it to the walls with a 
























































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ALL TRADES. 


229 


whitewash brush. The shade may be altered or improved by 
adding a little Dutch pink or chrome yellow. When required for 
use it must be dissolved in water, mixed with size, etc. This 
color must not come in contact with iron, as the Roman vitriol 
powerfully attacks it, and thereby spoils the color. 

Blue in D is temper. —A good blue is made by dissolving 
whiting in water, and mixing indigo with it. 

Blue Verditer.— The best blue in use for distemper color on 
walls. Dissolve some pieces of copper in aqua-fortis, and when 
dissolved, produce a precipitation of it by adding quicklime, in 
such doses that it will be en tirely absorbed by the acid. In order 
that the precipitate may be pure copper without any mixture, 
when the liquor has been decanted, wash the precipitate, and 
spread it out on a piece of linen cloth to drain. If a portion of 
this precipitate, which is green, be placed on a grinding-stone, 
and a little quicklime in powder be added, the green color will 
be changed into a beautiful blue. The proportion of lime added 
is from 7 to 10 parts in 100. As the whole matter has already 
acquired the consistency of paste, dissication soon takes place. 

Straw Color in Size. —Dissolve the necessary quantity of 
whiting in water, then grind in water some chrome yellow or 
Dutch pink; mix to the shade required, and add some strong 
size; strain the color through a hair sieve, and set it in a cool 
place till lit for use. 

Drab iu Size.— (An excellent drab.) Dissolve in water, whit¬ 
ing, and grind some burnt umber very tine in water; mix it to 
the shade required. Strain the color as usual and mix with size. 
Raw umber will make a drab of a different shade. 2. Dissolve 
separately some whiting and French yellow in water. Take a 
proportionate quantity of each and mix them together till a 
bright yellow is produced. Grind a little lampblack very fine in 
vinegar, and with it sufficiently stain the color to form a drab; 
another shade may be obtained by adding a littie Venetian red. 
Thus, by diversifying the proportions of the above-mentioned 
pigments, a great variety of shades may be produced. 

Milk Paint for Out-Door Work.— The quantity for 100 
square feet: One quart of skimmed milk, 3 ounces of lime, 2 
ounces of linseed or poppy oil, Impounds of Spanish white or 
whiting. Put the lime into a clean bucket, add sufficient of the 
milk to slake the lime, add the oil a few drops at a time, stirring 
the mixture with a flat stick till the whole of the oil is incorpor¬ 
ated in the mass; then add the remainder of the milk and after¬ 
ward the Spanish white or whiting, finely powdered and sifted 
gently over the mixture by degrees. Curded milk will do for the 
purpose, but it must not be sour. One coat of this will do for 
ceilings and staircases in general, 2 coats or more for new wood. 
Where color is required you may use powdered umber, ochres, 
chromes, greens, blues, pinks, etc., ground in milk. For partic¬ 
ular work strain through a hair sieve. 

For Outdoor Work.— Eight ounces of lime newly slacked, 



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by dipping it in water, and allowing it to break down in the open 
air. Now take 2 ounces of Burgundy pitch, and dissolve by a 
gentle heat in 6 ounces of poppy or linseed oil; then add to the 
hot lime 2 quarts of skimmed milk while in a hot state. Add 
the mixture of pitch and oil a little at a time, stirring all the 
while. Lastly, add 3 pounds of powdered whiting. 

To Whiten Ceiling’s or Walls. —Take the best whiting and 
break down in water, then boil some parchment-cuttings three 
hours, and strain off the liquor after the whole is mixed to¬ 
gether. London size will be a good substitute for the above; if 
the double size, use nearly half water; if the single, use none. 
You must test the size, as some is much stronger than others. 
You may add a small piece of blue black to the whiting, and 
before using this wash you may stir in a little turpentine. 

llisteinper Color for Walls.— If distemper is to be applied 
to a wall or ceiling which is covered with plaster, some whiting 
is put into water, where it may be easily broken and diluted if 
allowed time to soak; it must be completely saturated, and when 
it has settled, the clear water must be poured off. To correct 
the too great whiteness and to prevent a yellow cast, grind sepa¬ 
rately in some water a little indigo or ivory black, and mix with 
it: then add to the mixture some strong size which has been pre¬ 
viously warmed. well stirring the whole till properly mixed. 
The whole of the distemper must be strained while warm, in or¬ 
der to remove all impurities ana thoroughly mix the color. 
When this is done the distemper may be put into a cool place till 
it is formed into a weak trembling jelly, which is the only proper 
state in which to apply it to the walls. All size distemper colors 
which are applied to walls, and which are mixed with whiting, 
should at all times be worked cold, and of a weak, trembling 
jelly, otherwise it will be impossible to make good work, and 
great care should be taken not to have too much body in the 
color, for it will certainly crack and fall off in scales, as it is not 
the strength of the size that causes the work to crack, but the 
body of color. There is a great advantage in having a sufficient 
quantity of size in the first coat of distemper, as it binds hard, 
and stops the suction of the wall, in consequence of which the 
next coat, if properly prepared, will not move the first strata, 
but it will work perfectly free, and when dry, the work will have a 
uniform and solid appearance. If these instructions are fully at¬ 
tended to the amateur cannot fail in his endeavors to execute his 
work in the best manner. This method of whitewashing and 
coloring walls is far superior to lime, as it works much smoother 
and when properly mixed and worked upon a new wall it will not _ 
crack and fall off ‘in scales; it also covers better, and after being 
repeatedly applied for a number of years the walls need no scrap¬ 
ing, as the color easily washes off with a whitewashing brush, af¬ 
ter they have been well soaked with water. 

Lime Whitewash.— This is made from lime well slaked. 
Dissolve 2 l A pounds of alum in boiling water, and add it to every 
pailful of whitewash. Lime whitewash should be used very thin 


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and when it is sufficiently hound on the wall by means of alum. 

coats will cover the work better; this may be used for 
the first coat, thinned with water. Most whitewashers apply 
their wash, too thick, and do not mix a proportionate quantity of 
alum to bind it, consequently the operation of the brush rubs off 
the first coat in various parts and leaves an uneven surface, and 
the 01 lginal smooth surface of the wall is entirely destroyed. 

To Make Paste for Paper-Hanging-.— Mix 4 pounds of 
flour well with cold water, as thick as you can, then boil 2 gal¬ 
lons of water and add a little alum, then take a little of the hot 
water and mix with that you have stirred with the cold water, 
stirring the while till you have added the whole, then strain for 
use; thin with cold water; size your walls with thin glue size. 

Color to Imitate Cherry Tree.— Grind raw and burnt 
terradasienna with whiting, then to 1 gallon of water add »4 pound 
of glue; let the water be warm to dissolve the glue. When the 
color is applied, it will do with or without varnish. 

Transparent Color for Painting.— The best are made 
from vegetable or animal substances; minerals do not work so 
well with water, and are apt to fade. 

Directions for Inside Painting,- The first thing is to 
have the room free from dust; the next essential thing is to kill 
the knots of the wood. When the work is knotted, proceed to 
prime it, which must be made to dry exceedingly hard, in order 
to stop the unction of the wood, otherwise the second coat will 
by the operation of the brush, rub off the priming in different \ 
parts of the work, and there will be no uniformity in the finish¬ 
ing coat, but it will leave some parts dead and others of a shin¬ 
ing surface. The middle coat may be of size color applied warm. 
Use but little color in your size or it will scale. To prepare knot¬ 
ting grind some lead powder in water, and mix in with strong 
glue size; put it into an iron vessel, and when used it must be 
applied to the knots with a brush quite warm. To make prim¬ 
ing, mix or grind red and white lead with linsaedoil: then, for 
the dryers, take a little litharge and burnt white viti iol or pat¬ 
ent dryers, which must be ground on a slab very fine in turpen¬ 
tine. Mix them altogether and thin with boiled oil. fi’he burnt 
vitriol and litharge act, as it were, in opposition to each other, 
and render the paint exceedingly drying; and the turpentine, 
with the boiled oil, prevents the color from running down the 
quicks of the work. When the priming is dry, fill up the nail- 
holes and crevices with putty. Rub the surface of the work 
smooth with glass-paper and dust it well. 

The Second Coat for White.— If this coat is intended as a 
finish too much oil must not be added or the work will turn yel¬ 
low. Mix the white lead in raw linseed oil, with equal parts of 
oil and turps and a little litharge; but it does not require so 
much as in the priming, as it will dry in a little time if the first 
coat, is hard. The white may be heightened with a little lamp¬ 
black or Prussian blue. 





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DEPARTMENT V. 


The Third Coat. —If this coat is intended to have but little 
gloss the white lead must be mixed in linseed oil, but not too 
stiff, and thinned with spirits of turpentine, adding to it a little 
litharge and burnt white vitriol, and also a very small portion of 
lampblack. For white; If a dead white is required for the fin¬ 
ishing coat the white lead must be ground as stiff as possible in 
linseed oil, and made quite thin with spirits of turpentine,which 
requires no dryers. A small portion of lampblack may be added 
to heighten the white, and ground exceedingly fine and strained. 



Fainting' in Head Colors for Inside Work.— If the 

work is to be painted in a superior manner new wood requires .3 
coats of oil color and a flat, as the flat is not intended to give 
body to the work, but is a thin wash, merely to beautify and give 
a smooth, solid, and uniform appearance: and to apply this last 
coat, which is generally about the third day after the last coat of 
oil paint, as the flatting will then appear soft. If the last coat of 
paint remains to get hard the flatting will appear harsh and 
streaky. The proper method of flatting a door is to begin and 
finish the panels, taking care to cut them in clean; proceed with 
the styles, working the color quick, in order to keep it from set¬ 
ting before the door is finished; and if the flatting should set on 
any part of the work it must be rubbed up with fresh color as 
you proceed to finish, otherwise it will not have an uniform ap¬ 
pearance. 

To Flat a French Gray on Hard-Finished 'Walls.— 

In painting a new wall the oil should be put on quite warm, in 
order to make the paint adhere; without this precaution the 
paint would be apt to rise and fall off in scales. The first coat to 
be applied to the wall is of good boiled oil; when this is dry and 
hard, a thin coat of weak size may be put on tinged with red 
lead, in order to stop the suction of the wall, and bring the work 
to an uniform appearance. When this second coat is dry the 
wall must be painted with a thin coat of light lead color, mixed 
in boiled oil, to which a little spirits of turpentine and litharge 
must be added to harden it. Wheh this coat is dry. rub it smooth 
with sandpaper, procure some of the best Englisn ground lead, 
and mix it with equal parts of raw linseed oil and spirits of tur¬ 
pentine; then, to form the French gray, stain the white paint 
with Prussian blue and tinge it with vermilion to give it a warm 
appearance: some burnt white vitriol must also be added to give 
it a drying quality. Strain the color through a coarse cloth or a 
sieve made of fine wire. When it has stood 3 or 4 days the work 
will be in good order for flatting; but before this is put on the 
work should be lightly rubbed with sandpaper and well dusted. 

To Make and Apply Ike Flatting'.— Mix the best English 
ground white lead with spirits of turpentine to the thickness of 
treacle, put in Prussian blue, finely ground, in equal parts of oil 
and turpentine. To make a superb gray, lake must be substi¬ 
tuted for vermilion. Great care must be taken to match the 
shade of the last coat, by comparing the flatting with the re¬ 
mains of the last color which may ha »e been left in the paiufc 





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pot. It should be observed that the flatting must be made about 
one-third lighter, as the ground color will not be so apt to show 
through, and it will, therefore, give the work a more solid ap¬ 
pearance. When the flatting is brought to the proper shade, 
strain it. and thin it to the proper consistency for use. Good 
soft-spreading brushes must be used, otherwise it will be impos¬ 
sible to make good work. If the wall be from 8 to 10 feet high, 
it will require two men to flat it. Fix a scaffold from one end of 
the wall to the other, a proper depth from the ceiling, in order 
to reach with care the top of the work. Let the color be proper 
ly thinned and stirred from the bottom, and be careful to have 
everything provided, as you cannot leave off work until one flank 
is finished. The bottom of the wall must be commenced first, 
painting not more than 12 or 18 inches wide at one time. Move 
the brush in a perpendicular direction, and when you have 
painted as high as you can conveniently reach, carefully cross 
the work with a light hand, in order to give the color a uniform 
extension. When this is done, finish the work by laying it off 
very lightly, beginning at the bottom and striking the brush up 
about a foot, then from the top lightly draw the brush to the 
bottom. When this is done, the man on the plank must begin 
where the other left off. and finish the top. In the meantime "the 


man on the floor must begin another width, and so proceed until 
one side of the wall is finished. The same p^^^ r > 
highly necessary in flatting every other color. 


Harmony of Colors.— Red looks well with blacks, whites, 
or yellows. Blues harmonize with whites and yellows. Greens 
with whites, black, or yellow. Gold with blacks or browns. 
White appears well with any color. Purple, pink, and white, etc. 


To Prepare t he Ground for I he Oak Rollers.— Stain 
your white lead with raw terradasienna and red lead or with 
chrome yellow and Venetian red; thin it with oil and turps, and 
strain it for use. When the groundwork is dry, grind in beer, 
vandvke brown, whiting, and a little burnt terradasienna for the 
graining color, or you may use raw terradasienna with a little 
whiting, umbers, etc. 


Oil for Graining Oak. —Grind Vandyke brown in turps; 
add as much gold size as will set it, and as much soft soap as will 
make it stand the comb. Should it set too quickly, add a little 
boiled oil. Put a teaspoonful of gold size V 2 pint turps, and as 
much soap as will lay on a 25-cent piece; then take a little soda 
mixed with water and take out the veins. 


Spirit Groining for Oitk. --Take 2 pounds' of whiting, % 
pound of gold size, thinned down with spirits of turpentine; then 
tinge your whiting with Vandyke brown and raw terradasienna 
ground tine, strike out your lights with a fitch dipped in turpen¬ 
tine. tinged w*Ph a Lttle color to show the track, and every few 
strokes wipe off the color to show the lights. If your lights do 
not appear clear, add a little more turpentine. Turpentine var¬ 


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graining must be brushed over with beer, with a clean brush be¬ 
fore varnishing. Strong beer must be used for glazing up top 
graining or shading. 

Another Cream.— Mix raw terradasienna, red and white 
lead, to the tint required for the ground; when this is applied 
and dry and made smooth with fine glass-paper, the graining 
color mav be applied, for 'v\hich take 4 ounces of sugar of lead, 4 
ounces of raw terradasienna, whiting, and Vandyke brown, and 
grind them quite stiff in boiled linseed oil; take 8 ounces of bees¬ 
wax and melt it in an iron ladle or earthen pipkin, and when 
fluid take it a distance from the fire, and pour m gradually spir¬ 
its of turpentine, to the consistency of thick treacle; put a small 
quantity of this (grainer’s cream) into the graining color in or¬ 
der to keep it from flowing together. If the composition should 
:et too quick before it can be conveniently worked, add a small 
portion of boiled oil; or. should it flow too freely, add some of the 
cream. This style of oak requires working with combs of vari¬ 
ous sizes. Observe that for the purpose of graining moldings it 
will be necessary to prepare small combs in a variety of forms. 

Application.— Spread the graining color over the surface of 
the work with a large paint brush, about half worn; take a 
coarse comb and pass over it in a straight direction, pressing 
moderately hard; after which, take a finer comb and passover 
it several times in a wavy direction; then with an ivory 
comb, with the two outside teeth broken off, pass over the center 
of the work with a very tremulous motion of the hand, in order 
to produce the finest grain, which is in the center of the tree. To 
produce flowers or veins, use a piece of thin wash-leather,wrapped 
tight round the thumb, and wipe them out with the thumb-nail, 
or twist the leather to a point and hold it between the thumb 
and finger. By taking these methods the thickest or finest veins 
may be struck opt successfully. When the whole of your work is 
dry, dip the flat hog’s hair graining brush into a small quantity 
of burnt umber, ground up in ale very thin, and pass over it in a 
straight direction. This will leave the fine transparent grain so 
natural to this wood. When dry, varnish. 

Another Oak.— This ground color is prepared wdth white 
lead and chrome yellow, heightened with a little Venetian red. 
When your ground is dry. take burnt umber and grind it up in 
equal parts of boiled oil and turpentine; w r hen this is done, take 
an equal proportion of copperas (white vitriol), previously baked 
in an oven or stove, till the moisture is evaporated, w hich w ill 
take place in a few minutes. This operation must be performed 
in a glazed earthen bowl, as it w ill adhere so firmly to any rough 
vessel that it would be difficult to separate them. When the 
copperas is burnt, it must be ground in raw linseed oil, and 
mixed with the above ingredients: then take one-sixth in bulk 
of castile soap, melted over the fire in a little boiled oil; mix this 
also wfith the other ingredients; thin the whole down with boiled 
oil and turpentine to the proper.consistency for graining. If the 
grain should run together too freely, use a greater proportion of 




































































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spirits of turpentine; or should it set too quick, add more boiled 
oil. Proceed to finish exactly as in the last. 

To Imitate Oak in Distemper.— To prepare the ground 
for this, make a very light yellow with stone ochre and white 
lead. The graining' colors used for this specimen are equal 
quantities of raw umber and stone yellow, ground very fine in 
ale. This should be kept in a well-corked bottle, in order to 
keep the dust and other impurities from it: and when required 
for usq it should be diluted with ale to a proper consistency for 
graining. When your ground is dry, take a large tool well filled 
with this color, rub it over the panel in an even manner, have 
ready a sponge, a bowl of water, and a straight-edge. Place the 
straight-edge against the work, and, with the sponge moistened 
with water, draw out the light shades in a perpendicular man¬ 
ner, then wipe with a brush the panel, striking the work with 
the end of the brush in quick succession till you get to the bot¬ 
tom, when, if don«e according to these directions, it will leave the 
natural grain of the wood. When this operation is finished, im¬ 
mediately take a piece of wash-leather, moistened, and wipe out 
the veins; and when this is dry. put in some dark veins of the 
same color; allow this to dry also, then, with a flat hog’s hair 
brush, dipped into burnt umber thinly diluted with ale, pass 
over the panel in a perpendicular direction; and as soon as one 
panel is finished, take a wet rag or sponge and carefully wipe off 
all the color which may have gone beyond the panel. When all 
your panels are finished, commence on the middle upright styles 
varying the grain according to taste, but always in a downward 
direction. When all the middle styles are thus far completed, 
lay the straight-edge over the wont finished, and pass the tool 
with a little of the graining color from top to bottom of the door; 
this will make a neat job, both at the end of the styles and 
panels. When dry, take the flat graining brush and dip it in the 
thin glaze of umber, and pass over the work, not too straight 
and formal, but in a spirited manner, occasionally giving a free 
turn to the brush, which will give a pleasing variety and make 
the imitation look quite natural. When dry, varnish. All dis¬ 
temper graining requires two good coats of varnish; beer it over 
before you varnish it a second time. , 

Another Method .— 1 This method of imitating oak in dis¬ 
temper is so excellent, that should it be exposed continually 
to the hot rays of the sun; it will never fade. Make a lieh 
ei’ound color with storm oehr«. burnt terradasienna. chrome yel¬ 
low and white lead. For your graining color dissolve some gum 
arabic in hot water, and mix it with raw terradasienna. whiting 
and Vandyke, ground in beer. When the ground is dry, spread 
the surface very even, then take a dry daster and draw it down 
upon the work, pressing moderately hard; comb the color while 
wet, and allow it to get perfectly dry, then with a camel-hair 
pencil, dipped in clear water, put in your veins. Allow the work 
to remain a few seconds till the water has dissolved the gum 
arabic, and then beat the veins out with a dry duster or cloth, in 



























































DEPARTMENT Y. 


a downward direction. After this, use the flat brush, and pass 
over the work with a thin glaze of Turkey umber, ground in ale. 
Should the veins not beat out sufficiently clear, add a little more 
gum to the color, but care must be taken not to put too much, 
as the work would be likely to crack. When dry, varnish. _ 

To Imitate Old Oak.— To make an exceedingly rich color 
for the imitation of old oak. The ground is a composition oi 
stone ochre or orange chrome and burnt terradasienna. The 
graining color is burnt umber or vandyke brown, to darken it a 
little. Observe that the above colors must be used whether the 
imitation is in oil or distemper. When dry, varnish. 

To Grain Oak in Distemper.- The ground either light or 
dark. When the ground is dry and made quite smooth, then with 
a fitch form your veins with a little ochre, ground in turpentine 
varnish. When the distemper color for the combining is applied 
after the veins are formed on the plain ground, then whip and 
comb in with your color mixed with beer. When dry, varnish: 
which varnish will bring the lights out which were first struck 
out. When dry, wet the whole with a little beer, glaze up and 
varnish. 

To Imitate Old Oak in Oil. —Grind vandyke and whiting 
in turpentine, add a bit of common soap to make it stand the 
comb, and thin it with boiled oil. 

Pollard Oak in Distemper, witli a Roller or Hand¬ 
work.— Form large dark patches with vandyke brown on the 
ground; then with a softener draw from patch to patch, then 
take a short cut hair pencil or a small piece of sponge tied to the 
end of a stick, and by turning it round between the thumb and 
linger, form your curls or knots on the patches; to render it 
more showy, put in some patches of lake and burnt terradasienna 
and form knots in the same way as above; then top grain, which 
grain must cross all the other grains. As soon as dry, which will 
be in a few minutes, give it a coat of equal parts of gold size and 
turps, to be used as a varnish, as it dries quickly where expedi¬ 
tion is required. When dry, glaze over with vandyke brown or 
ivory-black, ground in beer, then with a soft piece of rag or 
sponge take out your shades, soften, varnish and finish your 
work. 

To Imitate Pollard Oak.— The ground color is prepared 
with a mixture of chrome yellow, vermilion and white lead, to a 
rich, light buff. The graining colors are vandyke brown and 
small portions of raw and burnt terradasienna and lake, ground 
in ale and beer. Fill a large tool with color, spread even the sur¬ 
face to be grained, and soften with a badger-hair brush. Take a 
moistened sponge between the thumb and finger, and dapple 
round and round in kind of knobs, then soften very lightly; then 
draw a softener from one set of knobs to the other while wet, to 
form a multiplicity of grains, and finish the knots with a hair 
pencil, in some places in thicker clusters than others. When dry 
put the top grain on in a variety of directions, and varnish with 






















































ALL TRADES. 


*37 


turp s and gold size; then glaze up with Vandyke and strong ale 
To hmsh varnish with copal. 

Pollard Oak in Oil. The ground is a rich huff, prepared the 
same as the pollard oak in distempter. The graining colors are- 
.kqual portions of burnt Turkey umber or Vandyke, raw terra- 
ciasienna and burnt copperas, ground separately in boiled oil or 
turps very stiff: then mix them together, and thin the whole 
with spirits of turpentine; then with a large sash tool rub a verv 
light coat on the panel, and, while wet, take the flat graining 
brush, containing a very thin row of hairs, dip it into the color 
and m a spirited manner dapple in various directions, then din 
the brush into the burnt umber, which has been made quite thin 
with spirits of turpentine, and throw on some very fine spirits 
A\ hen the colors are set, take the same flat brush, dip it into a 
thin glaze of burnt umber, and put the grain on in a curly direc¬ 
tion. Care must be taken to have a sufficient quantity of oil in 
the colors to bind them, and to finish but a small part of the sur¬ 
face at once, m order to keep it moist, the work will then blend 
itself. 


A (*ood (.round for Mahogany.- One pound of the best 
English Venetian red, 2 ounces of chrome yellow, ground to¬ 
gether m equal portions of linseed oil and turpentine. If a light 
ground is required, use the same quantities of red lead and 
chrome yellow; a little vermilion will increase the richness of 
the color. Use for the graining color equal quantities of van- 
dyke brown and burnt terradasienna. ground in ale or beer, well 
ground on a clean stone; a small piece of lake may be added for 
the light grain. The feather is formed with a graining-roller in 
a few seconds, ready for softening. 


To Imitate Mottled Maliog-any.— The ground is prepared 
with the best English Venetian red, red lead, and a small portion 
of white lead. The graining colors required are burnt terrada¬ 
sienna ground in ale, with a small portion of Vandyke brown 
sufficient to take away the fiery appearance of the terradasienna! 
Cover the surface to be grained, soften with the badger’s hair 
brush, and while wet take a mottling-roller and go over the 
lights a second time, in order to give a variety of shade; then 
blend the whole of the work with the badger softener. Put the 
top grain on with the same color; when dry, varnish. 

Another Method.— This ground is prepared with vermilion 
and a very small portion of white lead and chrome vellow. The 
graining color is Vandyke brown and a little crimson lake,, 
ground up in ale. After the ground is dry and smooth spread a 
thick coat on the surface to be grained, and soften with the badg¬ 
er-hair brush; take out the lights on each side, and use a roller 
with the imitation carved on leather wetted with water; it is ex¬ 
peditious in forming a feather or mottling. Blend the whole to¬ 
gether with the badger-hair brush till the work appears very 
soft. Top grain, and the effect will be beautiful. When dry 
varnish. 
















fA 




1 % 



DEPARTMENT V. 

To Imitate New Mahogany.— This is an excellent method 
of preparing for the imitation or new mahogany. The ground 
( olor must be prepared with equal quantities of chrome yellow 
and red lead, with a little burnt terradasienna. The graining 
color is prepared with equal portions of raw and burnt terrada¬ 
sienna, finely ground in ale or beer. After the ground is dry, 
spread a thick coat on the panel, then work with a mottler and 
softener. When dry, put on the top grain with the burnt terra¬ 
dasienna. Varnish wnen dry. 

Another Method.— This ground is prepared with stone 
ochre, red lead, and a small quantity of burnt terradasienna. 
The graining color is a mixture of Vandyke brown and dragon’s 
blood; for the top grain a greater proportion of Vandyke brown 
must be used. Varnish as before. 

To Imitate Rosewood with Rollers.— Brush on the 
graining color as even as you can; then pass the graining rollers 
over to form the hearts, knots, etc. Previous to doing this let 
the rollers be wetted with water and rolled on a cloth. When the 
work is dry brush it over with a thin coat of gold size and turps; 
when this is dry top grain again with rollers and varnish it over. 
For the ground color mix the best English Venetian red with lin¬ 
seed oil and turps, to which add a little patent dryer. Vermilion 
will form a superior ground, but is more expensive. 

Another Method.— Mix vermilion and a small quantity of 
white lead for the ground. Take rose pink, tinged with a little 
lampblack or Vandyke brown, and grind very fine in oil, then 
take a flat graining brush, with the hairs cut away at unequal 
distances, and put on the grain as if wending round a knot. 
When nearly dry take a graining comb that is used for oak and 
draw down the grain. This will give it the appearance of na¬ 
ture. When dry, varnish. 

Another Method.— The ground is a bright red, prepared ex¬ 
actly the same. For the graining colors, grind separately some 
burnt terradasienna and ivory black, very fine in ale: mix them 
together and with the tool well cover the surface of the work, 
then wipe it with the softener, to form the small speckled grain. 
When dry take a small flat graining brush, well filled with ivory 
black, and put on the top grain in a knotty form; after this, cut 
the top grain asunder by putting in the heavy hearts with roll¬ 
ers. When the first coat of varnish is dry grind a small quan- 
titv of lake in ale, and with a camel-hair pencil touch round the 
knots and other parts of the work. When dry, finish with a coat 
Ql clear varnish. 

Another Method.— This ground color is prepared with ver¬ 
milion and small quantities of white lead and crimson lake. 
When the ground is dry and made very smooth, take Vandyke 
brown, ground in oil, with a small tool spread the color over the 
surface in different directions, forming kind of knots. Befoie 
the work is dry take a piece of leather and, with great freedom, 
strike out the light veins; having previously prepared the dark- 



Ji 





O '"0 














































.ALL TRADES. 


239 


est tint of Vandyke brown or gum asphaltum, immediately take 
the flat graining brush, with a few hairs in it, draw the grain 
over the work and soften. When varnished the imitation will 
be excellent. 

Another Method, in Size.— Mix Venetian red, white lead 
powder, vermilion, and common size, the consistency of which 
when cold must be of a weak, trembling jelly. With this compo¬ 
sition paint the work twice over. When the ground is dry take 
some lampblack finely ground in beer, and beat the white of an 
egg into it; taxe the flat graining brush dipped in the black and 
put on the grain. When dry stain the first coat of varnish with 
rose pink, finely ground in turpentine, and finish the work by 
giving it a coat of clear varnish. 

To Imitate Bird’s Eye Maple.— The ground is a light buff 
prepared with white lead, chrome yellow, and a little vermilion 
or English Venetian red to take off the rawness of the yellow. 
The graining color is equal parts of raw umber and terradasi- 
enna, ground in ale to the proper consistency. Spread the sur¬ 
face of the work with this color and. having some of the same 
prepared a little thicker, immediately take a sash-tool or sponge 
and put on the dark shades and soften with the badger hair 
brush: before the color is dry. put on the eyes by dabbing the 
dotting machine on the work. When dry, put on the grain with 
the camel’s-hair pencil in the prominent parts to imitate the 
small hearts of the wood. When dry, varnish. 

Another Method. —The ground for this prenare in oil, with 
white lead, turps, and stained with chrome or stone ochre, and a 
little red. The graining colors are 3 parts of raw umber and 1 of 
raw terradasienna ground fine in ale. Make part of this color 
quite thin, and rub a transparent coat over the work, and while 
wet take the flat hog’s-hair graining brush and dip it into some 
thicker color, draw the veins very much curled, and rather in¬ 
clining downward: then take a feather or goose-quill and pass 
over the work in the same direction as the flat brush was used, 
occasionally giving a sharp turn and. if necessary, pass over the 
work again; this will split them into a variety of forms. While 
wet soften the whole together and put in the eyes by dabbing 
the points of the fingers or rollers, etc., on the work,‘occasion¬ 
ally using the hair pencil. When the whole of the work is dry, 
top grain with a thin glaze of raw umber finely ground in ale. 
When dry, varnish. 

To Imitate Curled Maple.— Prepare alight yellow for the 
ground by mixing chrome yellow and white lead, tinged with Ve¬ 
netian red. The graining color is a mixture of equal portions of 
raw terradasienna and Vandyke ground in ale. Spread the sur¬ 
face to be grained in an even manner, then with a piece of cork 
rub across the work to and fro to form the grains which run 
across the wood; soften, and when dry, lightly top grain with 
the same color. When dry, varnish. 

Another Maple.— The ground is prepared precisely the 

























































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same. The graining colors are equal quantities of raw and burnt 
terradasienna ground in water and diluted with ale. r ill a tool 
with the color, and spread the surface even: then take a long 
piece of stout buff leather, cut to a straight edge, and by holding 
it each end. press the edge hard against the work, draw the 
leather down and it will leave the lights and shades, or use a 
pateht roller to take out the lights, which is very expeditions m 
its operation; when softened, top grain and varnish when dry. 

Another Method.— Put on the color with the tool; then with 
a sponge mottle and soften; then put in small eyes with your 
roller or lingers on the mottle; then put on the fine top grain 
wiih a tine pencil, forming ttie heart of the wood, and snade 
underneath with a bit of buff leather. 


Curled Maple in Oil for Outside Worlt.— Prepare a 

rich ground by mixing chrome yellow, white lead, and burnt 
terradasienna. For the graining color grind equal parts of raw 
terradasienna and umber with a little burnt copperas m turpen¬ 
tine and mix with it a small quantity of grainer's cream Thin 
the color with boiled oil. then fill a tool and spread the surface 
even and rub out the lights with the sharp edge of a piece of buff 
leather, which must now and then be wiped to keep it clean; 
soften the edges of the work very lightly, and when dry. put on 
the top grain with burnt umber and raw- terradasienna, ground 
in ale, with the white of an egg beat into it. When dry, varnish. 


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Satinwood.—This ground is prepared with white lead, stone 
ocher, and small quantities of chrome yellow' and burnt terrada¬ 
sienna. The graining-color is V6 of raw' terradasienna and whit* 
ing, ground in pale ale very thin; then spread the color over the 
surface to be grained. While wet, soften, and have ready a wet 
roller or mottling-brush. in order to take out the lights: blend 
the whole with the badger hair-brush. When the work is dry. 
take the fiat-brush, and, w'ith the same color, put. on the top 
grain; when dry, varnish. 


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Another Method.— Prepare the ground for this the same. 
The graining-colors are equal quantities of raw terradasienna 



and raw umber, with a little burnt terradasienna, and a very 
small portion of whiting, ground in ale or beer. Spread the 
color even over the surface of the work, and soften, then take 
the roller which has the feather carved on it. Soften, and when 
dry top grain w'ith the same color. Varnish as before. 


-Another Method.— The ground make W'ith white lead, 
chrome yellow’, and a little vermilion, till a very light cream 
color is produced. Well cleanse the w'ork from dust and grease, 
take a little of the best stone yellow, and a very small portion of 
burnt terrradasienna and whiling, ground in pale ale, and cover 
W’ith a thin coat the surface to be grained. Take a piece of wet¬ 
ted sponge and dab it on various parts of the work, and a roller, 
in order to take out the lights. As soon as you have produced as 
much dapple as required, soften the whole of the work. When 




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dry, put on the top grain with a thin glaze of the same color, 
thinned with beer; when dry, varnish. 

To Imitate Yew Tree.— The ground is a reddish buff. For 
the graining-color. grind in ale equal portions of Vandyke brown 
and burnt terradasienna, with a small quantity of raw terrada- 
sienna. When the ground is dry, spread the surface even with 
the color, and soften; then with a piece of cork with a sharp 
edge, rub the work cross and cross, in order to form the fine 
grain as in curled maple, and soften the same way of the grain. 
When dry. dip the tip of your fingers in the graining-color to 
form the eyes or knots, and put in the small touches with the 
camel-hair pencil. When dry, put on the top grain, and when 
this is dry, varnish. 

To Imitate Hair-Wood.— For the ground-color, take white 
lead and thin it with turpentine, and slightly stain it with equal 
quantities of Prussian blue and lampblack. For the graining- 
color, grind in ale a mixture of Prussian blue and raw terrada¬ 
sienna; when the ground is dry, spread a transparent coat of the 
graining-color on the surface of the work, and soften; then with 
the cork, mottle by rubbing it to and fro across the work to form 
the fine, long grain or mottle. When this is done, soften and top 
grain in a wavy but perpendicular direction; varnish when dry 

Hair-Wood for Chairs.— Paint the chair a light gray, by 
adding a little Prussian blue with white lead, ground very stiff 
in boiled linseed oil, and thinned down with turps to the consist¬ 
ency required. When this is dry, take some of the ground-color, 
made considerably thinner with turpentine, and with a common 
paint-brush put a very light coat on a small part of the work at 
once, as the grain must be laid on before the last coat sets, 
otherwise the colors will not blend together; having provided 
some thicker color, made darker by adding more Prussian blue, 
take a feather, or short gilder’s-tip, dip it into the color, and put 
on the fine, long vein cross ways, similar to the grain of curled 
maple. When the work is thus far finished, take a small flat 
graining-brush, and put on the top grain with the same color; 
when the whole of the work is ornamented and quite dry, it may 
be completed with two coats of colorless copal varnish. If a 
green color is desired, substitute mineral green for Prussian 
blue, both for the ground and graining-colors. 

To Imitate Oriental Verd-antique Marble.-Mix the 
ground black in oil-paint, and made quite smooth. For the 
graining-color, take white lead in oil, and made quite fluid in 
spirits of turpentine. This, laid on with a common sash-tool, in 
broad, transparent veins, so thin in places that the white is 
scarcely perceptible, and in other places nearly opaque. While 
the white is wet, take a piece of wash-leather, and dab it on m 
different parts of the work, leaving it in the form of shells or 
other fossil remains. While the color is still wet. take a square 
piece of cork, and notching it in two or three places, turn it 
round on the work between the thumb and finger. This will 








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242 


DEPARTMENT V. 


leave the circles more natural than 'pencil: when this is done, 
cut away part of a feather at unequal distances, pass this once 
over the white to take out irregular veins on the black ground, 
and by suddenly checking the hand, make it take an angular 
direction. When the work is sufficiently veined, let it remain 
till it gets dry before more can be done to it; when dry, it must 
be glazed over in distemper colors, in some places with raw 
terradasienna, in others. Prussian blue; and some parts must be 
left black and white. When the work is dry, take a feather and 
dip it into whiting ground fine in milk, and with it draw the fine 
veins over the work; a few fine lines with a camel-hair pencil 
may also be made to curl over the light parts with Prussian 
blue. When dry, it will be ready for the last glaze, which make 
.of raw terradasienna and a small portion of Prussian blue, 
mixed together in equal parts of boiled oil and turpentine. 
This will give the whole of the work the appearance of a beauti¬ 
ful green; when dry, varnish. Observe that verdantique, Egyp¬ 
tian, and serpentine, are the three principal marble greens, and 
most varied m their colors; but those with all other greens may 
be produced in a similar manner to the verdantique; but it will 
be advisable for the learner to procure some specimens of the 
different kinds of green marbles before he attempts to imitate 
what he has never seen. 


To Imitate Black and Gold Marble. —This description of 
marble is now in great use. The ground is a deep, jet black, or 
a dead color in gold size, drop black and turps; second coat, 
black japan, commence veining; mix white and yellow ochre 
with a small quantity of vermilion to give a gold tinge; dip the 
pencil m this color, and dab on the ground with great freedom 
some large patches, from which small threads must be drawn in 
various directions. In the deepest parts of the black a white 
yem is sometimes seen running with a great number of small 
threads attached to it: but care must be taken that these threads 
are connected with, and run in some degree in the same direc¬ 
tion with the thicker veins. If durability is not an object, and 
the work is required in a short time, it may be executed very 
quick in distemper colors, and when varnished it will look well 


Bove Marble.— The ground is a lead color If the work Is 
new. it will be necessary to give it two very thin coats of ground 
color which must be made to dry hard, taking care to rub it 
smooth with fine glass paper after each coat, and not to rub the 
color off the sharp edges of the wood; it must now remain till 
quite hard. For the graining take some of the lead color, such 
as is used for the ground, and make it quite thin with turpentine 
and rub a light coat over a small part of the work, with some 
dryers in to give a drying quality, and make it thin with spirits 
?/J iUr P ent ,r n ? : then take a small graniting machine, wit h a whit¬ 
ish color, to form the small specks or other fossil remains; pro 
ceed in the same way till the whole surface is covered, taking the 
precaution to paint but a small part of the ground at once, that 
the colors may ha'ie sufficient time to blend together while wet, 







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otherwise the work will appear harsh. When these colors are 
set, take some of the thin ground color, and, with a fitch or small 
sash tool, put in the faint, broad veins; then take a camel-hair 
pencil and put in a multiplicity of very fine veins over the whole 
surface of the work, crossing each other in every direction. 
When this is done, make the color a few shades lighter by add¬ 
ing white lead, and with a feather dipped iD the color, pass over 
the broad veins in the same direction, forming streams or 
threads. When this is done, take some thin white, and, with a 
camel-hair pencil, go partly over the same vein with short, thick 
touches; then with a fine stripping pencil, and with the same 
color, pass over the work, forming very fine lines, crossing each 
other in an angular direction. When the work is hard, rub it 
smooth with, very fine glass paper, and finish by putting on a 
coat of colorless varnish. Observe that the first layer of veins 
must be exceedingly faint, so much so that they are scarcely 
perceptible, as the lighter shades are put on, the former veins 
will appear sunk from the surface of the work to the depth of 
several inches, which will give an admirable effect for chimney 
pieces, table tops, wash stands, etc., where the work is exposed 
to close inspection. 

Another Method.— The ground is a light lead color, and 
perfectly dry. take a small paint-brush and scumble on irregular 
broad veins of white and black. Soften with a dry duster, and 
when sufficiently blended, the color must form light and dark 
shades, and not a decided black or white. This style of grain¬ 
ing is well calculated for large columns, halls, and all outside 
work, as it has a strikingly bold and heavy appearance. A few 
veins may be added with advantage. 

Another Method.— The ground the same as the last. The 
graining-colors are lampblack and a little Prussian blue, ground 
together very stiff in turps and a little white vitriol, to act as a 
dryer, and thinned with boiled oil. Mix small portions of these 
colors together with white lead, making the mixture a very lit¬ 
tle lighter than the ground color, and with a fitch put on the 
broad veins; then fill a camel-hair pencil and go over the same 
veins again with a lighter color; when this is done, go partly 
over the same vein again with white, slightly tinged with blue- 
black, made very thin with turpentine; a few white veins may be 
made to run over the surface of the work in various directions, 
being careful not to make them too prominent. 

White-Veined Marble.— This ground is a pure white. For 
the graining color white lead ground stiff in raw oil and made 
very thin with turpentine: then with a paint brush rub a light 
coat on a small part of the surface; then with a fitch scumble 
over the work with broad, faint veins of white, heightened with 
a little Prussian blue and lampblack, and with a camel hair pen¬ 
cil go over the work in various directions, forming the fine angu¬ 
lar lines, then with a little darker color go over the broad veins 
rater sparingly; when this is done make the color still darker, 
and with a fine pencil or feather go over the same veins, forming 



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244 


DEPARTMENT V. 


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dark touches of burnt terradasienna between the fine veins, 
which are formed into small masses. If the first shades are not 
sufficiently varied a thin and separate glaze of burnt and raw 
terradasienna may be applied in different parts of the work. All 
the above graining colors should be ground in spirits of turpen¬ 
tine and gold size sufficient to bind them. 

Italian Marble.— This looks bold, and is well adapted for 
columns, etc., and is easy to imitate. The ground is a light buff. 
For the graining eolors prepare a rich, warm buff made in the 
following manner: Mix stiff in boiled oil, white lead, and good 
stone ochre, and tinge with vermilion; then grind some burnt 
terradasienna very fine in boiled oil and put it in another pot; 
mix some pure white stiff in oil, and keep this separate. Thin 
these colors with turpentine; have ready a brush for the buff and 
another for the terradasienna proceed to wotk as follows; 
Take the brush intended for the buff moderately full of the color 
and dab it on freely and carefully in patches, some of them larger 
than others, and varying them as much as possible. When these 
are laid on take the other brush and fill in with the terradasi¬ 
enna the spaces between; as soon as this is done take a dry 
duster or softener and blend the ends together, making it appear 
as soft as possible. Proceed in this manner till the whole is fin¬ 
ished: then take a hair pencil and draw a few thin white veins 
over the work, varying them as much as necessary; take another 
pencil for the terradasienna, and run a few lines intermixing 
the whole. Varnish when dry. 

Red Marble.— For the ground nut on a white tinged with 
lake or vermilion; then apply deep rich reds in patches, filling 
up the intermediate spaces with brown and white mixed in oil; 
then blend them together; if in quick drying colors use about \i 
turps and gold size. When dry, varnish, and while the varnish 
is wet put in a multitude of fine white threads, crossing the 




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very small threads intersecting each other and running to a cen¬ 
ter. and then suddenly striking out again in all directions. A 
good effect may be given by passing a few fine dark veins across 
different parts of the work in an opposite direction to the veins 
already laid on. When the work is dry rtse colorless varnish. 

Sienna Marble.— The ground is stone yellow or raw' sienna. 
When the ground is dry, mix some stone yellow with white lead, 
have ready some white paint, and with these two colors, used 
separately, put in some broad transparent shades of white and 
yellow, and while wet, blend them them together with a soft 
duster. Take some Venetian red a little Prussian blue mixed 
with it, and with a hair pencil put in some broad veins in the 
same direction as the shades run, then for the darker veins take 
a mixture of Venetian red, lake, and Prussian blue and with a 
feather draw them over the first layer of veins in fine threads 
running to a center, and then striking out again fine transparent 
veins in different directions. When this is done mix Prussian 
blue and lake together, and with a fine pencil put in the darkest 
and finest veins over those previously laid on. Put in a few 


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Ann trades. 


245 


whole work in all directions, as the wet varnish brings the pencil 
to a fine point. ^ 

Jasper Marble.— Put on a white ground lightly tinged with 
blue, then put on patches of rich reds or rose pink, leaving 
spaces of the white ground; then partly cover those spaces 
with various browns to form fossils, in places running veins* 
then put m a few spots of white in the center of some of the red 
patches, and leaving in places masses nearly all white. When 
dry, use the clearest varnish. 

For the ground put on a light 
blue; then take blue, with a small piece of white lead and some 
da . common blue, and dab on the ground in patches, leaving 
portions of the ground to shine between;* then blend the edges 
together with a duster or softener; afterwards draw on some 
velu s in every direction, leaving large open spaces to be 
lilled up with a pale yellow or gold paint; finish with some fine 
white running threads, a coat of varnish last. 

Imitation of Marbles in Distemper: White-Veinort 

kind of marble has a splendid appearance on the 
walls ot staircases, halls, bars of taverns, coffee-rooms, etc. and 
can be executed with great expedition. If the walls are broken 
and scaly they must be well scraped and dusted, and two thin 
coats of lime whitewash applied. The second coat must be whit¬ 
ing mixed m milk, and at the same time have a little indigo 
lampblack, and Venetian red ground separately in milk, which 
is sufficiently glutinous to bind the colors; have them all ready 
for use by putting each color into a separate bowl. A few long 
striping hair pencils will be necessary, with long handles to 
them, in order to give more spirit and freedom to the work. 
■Vhen all the colors and tools are procured commence by divid¬ 
ing the work into squares about 20x14 inches, to represent the 
Mocks of marble: this may be done by a long straight-edge and 
a black lead pencil: the lines must be stout, in order to be seen 
thi ough the last coat of whitewash. AVhen the work is thus di- 
vided commence at the top of the wall by putting on a very thin 
coat of whitewash, working downward, taking the precaution to 
wet not more than one or two squares, as the whole of the work 
commenced upon must be blended with the dry duster and fin¬ 
isher before it gets dry. Immediately have ready in the bowl 
some whitewash slightly tinged with lampblack and Venetian 
red, and with a large brush put in the broad faint vein, and blend 
it together with the brush used for the whitewash: then with a 
feather or the flat graining brush, containing a very thin row of 
hairs, draw the narrow veins in the same direction with the 
broad vein; then take a large hair pencil and put in some thick 
touches between the veins just laid on; immediately take some 
blue tinged with Venetian red, and made quite thin with milk 
and with a fine camel’s hair pencil put in a multiplicity of very 
fine veins to represent, as it were, small streams of water run¬ 
ning to a center, and suddenly striking out in various directions 
but always inclining the same way the broad vein runs When 




\ t<K \ • 


246 



DEPARTMENT V. 



this is done take a fine hair pencil and put in a few fine white 
veins over the darkest shades. Have all the colors and tools in 
readiness before commencine work of this description, as it re¬ 
quires to be done with expedition. If the edges of the work 
should get too dry they must be damped with milk, and so pro¬ 
ceed till the wall is finished. The next thing to be done is to 
draw the fine black lines with lampblack finely ground in size, in 
order to represent the small blocks, which is easily executed 
with a pencil, such as is generally used for drawing the joints of 
brickwork, and with 3, beveled straight-edge. It should be ob¬ 
served that the vein in each block should be made to run in a 
different direction, in order to distinguish one from another, and 
give the work a more natural appearance. 

Italian Marble.— This kind of marble may be worked on 
walls. If a new wall, give it a coat of size worked in a jelly, in 
ordnr to stop the suction of the wall. Mix a sufficient quantity 
of Indian red with strong beer, and put into an earthen bowl: 
mix in beer whiting add French yellow, and tinge with English 
Venetian red till you produce a good buff. This you may know 
by trying it on a piece of paper and drying it by the fire, as it 
dries much lighter than it is while wet; then mix whiting with 
milk, as the beer would be apt to discolor it. or you may mix 
with size and apply it warm. These colors must be mixed to the 
consistency of cream. Having the colors and brushes in readi¬ 
ness proceed in the same manner as with oil colors, only instead 
of putting so many patches on the wall at once, you should dab 
on only 8 or 10, and those very quick and freely; then fill up the 
spaces with the red and blend the edges directly before the color 
sets, as it will be impossible to do anything with it after it dries. 
Proceed in the same manner till the whole of the wall is finished; 
put in the veins with distemper colors, as directed m oil colors. 

"Verd-Antique.— This is an easy and also a very excellent 
method of imitating this species of marble, and will be found 
very useful to the cabinet maker, as it is well adapted for the 
tops of tables, sideboards, wash-stands, etc. It may be produced 
with good effect by any person, although he may not be accus¬ 
tomed to the art of painting. If the work is new it may have one 
coat of dark lead color in oil paint, and when dry it should be 
made smooth with fine glass-paper. Grind separately some 
white lead powder and lampblack very fine in water and mixed 
with size. The black must be put on the work with a large sash 
tool, leaving various narrow spaces in different parts of the 
work. When this is dry the white lead must then be poured in 
thin streams on the black, and the table or wash-stand to be 
marbled is moved in various directions, taking the precaution to 
let the white fill up the small spaces which are left by the black. 
The floating must be repeated till the whole veins are sufficiently 
varied, and the small threads may be drawn from the wet masses 
of white over the dark parts by means of a feather. When the 
whole of the work is dry the shells or fossil figures are dabbed 
carelessly on with a camel-hair pencil. When these colors are 




































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ALL, TRADES 


247 



dry have ready some raw terradasienna and Prussian blue, 
which has been finely ground in ale, and, with these colors used 
separately, put a thin glaze of each color on various parts of the 
work; allow this to dry also; then apply the green glaze, which 
is composed of raw terradasienna and Prussian blue, ground in 
spirits of turpentine, and mixed with copal varnish. When the 
work is varnished and polished it will look well. 

Another Method. —The ground is black in oil paints, which 
well prepare and lay perfectly smooth on the surface of the work 
to be painted. It is necessary to give the work two thin coats, 
especially on mantel-pieces, fluted columns, etc., in order that 
the sharp edges of the wood may be completely covered; and 
further observe that in imitation of all fancy woods and marbles 
particular care should be taken in laying on the ground colors 
that the marks of the brush may not be visible; it will be better 
in all cases to give the surface to be grained two thin coats of 
ground color. Take lampblack and put it into an iron kettle, 
place it over the fire till it gets red-hot. then take it from the fire 
and extinguish it on the slab. It must be stiffly ground in boiled 
oil and thinned for use with spirits of turpentine; it will be nec¬ 
essary to add some burnt white vitriol and a small quantity of 
litharge. When the ground is dry commence graining by laying 
on white lead powder finely ground in water, and mixed with a 
small quantity of size, in order to bind and prevent its absorbing 
the varnish. The work must be entirely covered with white, but 
must be laid on in large streaks with a sash tool, having pre¬ 
viously prepared some lampblack finely ground in size, with an¬ 
other sash tool fill up the spaces which are left by the white 
thereby covering the whole surface of the work; then with tlw 
badger-hair brush soften the whole of the work together while it 
is still wet, in order to make the veins run imperceptibly into 
each other. The whole of the work should be covered this way 
at once; then take a large hair pencil and dip it into the white, 
and on the darkest parts of the work dab the white carelessly, in 
spots of various sizes and forms, in order to represent the shells, 
etc. Take another pencil, dip it into the black and go over the 
lightest parts of the work in the same manner. The fiat grain¬ 
ing brush, containing a very thin row of hairs, may then be dip¬ 
ped into the white and drawn over the black, in order to form 
the small irregular veins, A dark blue vein may be made to run 
across the work: this should be put on in a wavy zigzag direc¬ 
tion. When the work is perfectly dry in order to give it the 
green shade, it must have a*thin glaze of Prussian blue and raw 
terradasienna, the latter predominating. The colors may be 
ground in spirits of turpentine and mixed in copal varnish. 
When this is dry the work may be finished by giving it another 
coat of varnish. 

Marble to Resemble Jasper.— The ground is mixed the 
same as for mahogany, with Venetian red, red lead, and a little 
chrome yellow, ground and thinned with equal parts of oil and 
turpentine; to increase the brilliancy of the color substitute ver- 








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milion or lake for the Venetian red; then throw on spots of white 
paint with a graining machine while the ground is wet; blend 
them in with a softener or duster, and apply a little more white 
in the same manner. Blue, brown or yellow, may be thrown in 
the same way, and blended altogether. When nearly dry, take 
a hair pencil and form the large and small veins and threads; 
this latter part may be omitted or not, according to the taste of 
the workman. The above may be executed on a white ground 
and distemper colors applied with sash tools and pencils, then 
varnished. 

To Polish Woods and Marbles.— Two and one-half ounces 
of splints of wine. 1 dram of gum elemi, V<i ounce of orange shel¬ 
lac; pound the gums, and mix with the other ingredients. 

To Imitate Porphry Marble.— The ground is purple, 

brown, and rose pink. The graining colors for this specimen 
are vermilion and white lead, ground separately in turpentine 
and a little gold size added to each color to bind them; but, as 
they cannot be ground sufficiently thin for use, more turpentine 
must be added to each color before it is applied. When the 
ground is quite dry, fill a large brush with vermilion, discharge 
nearly all the color by scraping the brush on the edge of a pal¬ 
ette knife, then holding a rod of iron in the left hand, strike the 
handle of the brush against it, letting the small red spots fall on 
the work till the surface is covered, or, what is much preferable 
to it, a patent graniting machine, which will do the spotting 
much cleaner for all spotting purposes. Make the color a lighter 
shade by adding an equal quantity of white lead, and use it as 
before. Then with the clear, thin white, throw on the color the 
last time in very fine spots, aud when dry, put in a few white 
veins across the work. When it gets quite hard give it two 
coats of varnish. This kind of marble may be successfully imi¬ 
tated in distemper, which is preferable for inside work. The 
process is precisely the same as in oil; and as a substitute for 
gold size and turpentine, take the white of a few eggs and beat 
up in ale. By this method the work is executed with greater 
expedition, as it may be varnished at once. It is necessary, in 
the imitation of this marble, to procure some sheets of paper to 
place at the extent of the surface to be grained, in order to re¬ 
ceive the superfluous spots. 

Another Method.— This ground is red, and prepared with 
Venetian red, heightened with a little vermilion and white. For 
the graining color add a little more white to the ground color, 
and sprinkle the first layei on in the same manner as the last. 
When this coat is dry, sprinkling may be repeated very 
sparingly, and in some parts more than others, with a mixture 
of Venetian red and vermilion. Sprinkle the last time with 
white in very fine spots. You may put an opaque white vein 
across the wora running among the spots, from which transpar¬ 
ent threads must be drawn in various directions; but this can 
not be done till the whole of the work is quite dry and hard, when 
it may be performed with a sable pencil, and the threads drawn 






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ALL TRADES 249 

out with a feather. The work may then be varnished, and if due 
care be taken in sprinkling, the imitation wilJ be excellent. Ob¬ 
serve that in the application of each color a different circular 
brush will be required. 

To Imitate Granite. —For the ground color stain your 
white lead to a light lead color with lampblack and a little rose 
pink. Throw on black spots, with a graniting machine, a pale 
red, and fill up with white a little before the ground is dry. 

Another Method.— A black ground; when half dry, throw 
in vermilion, a deep yellow and white spots. 

Another Method.— Oak, mahogany and green grounds, look 
well with the same spots as used on other grounds. 

To Imitate Blaclt and Gold Marble for Table Tops, 
Side-Boards. Etc. —The finest specimens of this marble are 
produced' by spreading a leaf or two of gold in any part of the 
work where the gold veins are intended to run, and silver leaf 
where the white vein is to be displayed. The black ground may 
then be painted rather thickly over the whole surface, covering 
the gold and silver leaves: and after the color has been on a short 
time take a round-pointed bodkin and draw the color in small re¬ 
ticulate veins from off the gold and silver leaf; the metal will 
then show in fine lines. The larger masses may then be wiped 
off with leather. When the block is dry the yellow and white 
veins may be painted as before directed and drawn over the gold 
and silver leaf, which will, by this means, show through them 
and when the work is properly varnished and polished it will 
give the appearance of nature. The colors mav be ground in 
milk or strong beer, with the addition of a little size in the black. 

To Imitate Tortoise Shell. —This beautiful color can be 
made in the following manner: Take of clear lineeed oil 24 
ounces, of Venice turpentine or shellac 114 ounces, copal of an 
amber color 6 ounces, essence of turpentine 6 ounces. The copal 
is to be placed in a matrass and exposed to a moderate heat un¬ 
til it is liquefied; the linseed oil is then to be added in a boiling 
condition; then the Venice turpentine or shellac, liquefied also; 
finally, in small portions, the spirits of turpentine. To be applied 
in the ordinary way. 

Varnish for Applying on Glass.— Take a quantity of 
gum tragacanth and dissolve it for 30 hours in the white of eggs, 
which should be well beat up; it is then gently to be rubbed on 
the glass with an ordinary brush. 

Waterproof Polish.— This valuable article is made by put¬ 
ting J4 ounce of gum sandarac, M ounce of gum anime, and 2 
ounces of gum benjamin into a pint of spirits of wine in a bottle 
tightly stopped. The bottle is to be placed either in a sand bath 
or in hot water till the gums are dissolved; the mixture must 
then be strained off; then shake it up with gill of the best 
clear poppy oil, and set aside till needed. 

To Heighten the Color of Gold or Brass.— If you wish 






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250 


DEPARTMENT V. 


to operate on yellow gold dissolve in water 1 ounce of alum, 6 
ounces saltpeter, 2 ounces of copperas, 1 ounce of white vitriol. 
If for red gold take 4 ounces melted yellow wax. 2 l / 2 ounces of red 
ochre in line powder, 1 y 2 of calcined verdigris, y 2 ounce of calcined 
borax. Dissolve in water; apply with a soft cloth and rub for a 
few minutes aud tue ourxace win be very origut. 

To Dissolve Cfold.— Take any given quantity platina or 
gold, dissolve it in nitro-muriatic acid, until no further efferves- 
ence will take place when heat is applied. The solution of gold 
thus formed, must be evaporated to dryness by a gentle heat; by 
this means it will be freed from any excess of acid, which is 
quite requisite; then re-dissolve the dry mass in as little water 
as possible; next take an instrument, which is used by chemists 
for dropping liquid, known by the name of separating-funnel. 
having a pear-shaped body, tapering to a fine sharp point, and a 
neck capable of being stopped with the finger or a cork, which 
may contain a liquid ounce or more; this must be filled about 
one-fourth full with the liquid, and the other three parts must 
be with the best sulphuric ether. If this be properly managed 
the liquids will not mix. Then place the tube in a horizontal 
position, and gently turn it round with the finger and thumb. 
The ether will very soon be impregnated with the gold or pla¬ 
tina, which may be known by its changing its color; replace it 
in a perpendicular position, and let it stand at rest for 24 hours, 
having first stopped up the upper orifice with a cork. The 
liquid will then be divided into two parts—the darkest coloring 
being underneath. To separate them, take out the cork and let 
the dark liquid flow out: when it has disappeared, stop the tube 
immediately with the cork, and what remains in the tube is fit 
for use, and may be called gilding liquid. It should be put up in 
a bottle and corked tightly. The muriate of gold or platina 
formed by digesting these metals in nitro-muriatic acid, must be 
entirely free from any excess of acid; for otherwise it will act 
too forcibly on the steel, and cause the coating of gold to peel 
off. Pure gold must be employed. The ether must not be shak¬ 
en with the muriate of gold, as advised in works of chemistry, 
for it will be sure then to contain acid; but if the two liquids be 
brought continually into contact by the motion described, the 
affinity between ether and gold is so strong as to overcome the 
obstacle of gravity, and it will hold the gold in solution. By 
gentle evaporation this etherial solution may be concentrated. 

Ciol<l Paint.— Take 1 pound of spirits of wine, \i pound of 
pure gum-lac, wash it till the water is no more red; when dry, 
grind it fine, and add it to the spirits of wine in a glazed earthen 
vessel of a size which will not be more than 3 parts filled by the 
ingredients. Place this vessel in another which contains the 
water, after the manner of a glue pot. over a fire without flame, 
keep it boiling till the gum is dissolved, and be careful that no 
lighted candle or flame come near it. Stir it while boiling with 
a piece of white w’ood. You may add a little tumeric root or not 
ut your own discretion. In case of its taking fire by accident, 



















have a cloth ready In water to extinguish the flame. When dis¬ 
solved, strain it through a strong linen cloth, bottle, and well 
cork it. To use this, paint over the wood 3 times with a soft 
brush; let each coat well dry before applying the other. If the 
work be silvered over first, it wili resemble fine gold. 


POLISHING. 

* 

See also “Cleaning and Repairing," Department 1V. 

IMning-Table.— One pint linseed oil; 2 ounces black resin; 
2 ounces spirits of nitre*; 4 ounces distilled vinegar; 1 ounce 
spirits salts, and 2 ounces butter of antimony. The tables are 
to be washed on alternate days; first day with boiling water: 
second day with the polishing liquid; third day with cold vine¬ 
gar. The tables assume a lustrous appearance; hot dishes 
placed upon them without a mat will have no effect unon them, 
and any liquid spilt will, if wiped dry, leave no mark. 

French Polish.— Shellac 3 parts, gum mastic. 1 part; gum 
sandarac 1 part; spirits wine 40 parts. The mastic and san- 
darac must first be dissolved in spirits of wine, and then the 
shellac. To do this put them into a bottle loosely corked, and 
place it in a vessel of water, heated to a little below 173 o Fah¬ 
renheit, until solution is effected; the clear solution may be 
poured off into another bottle for use. 

Ivory or Bone.— These admit of being turned very smooth, 
or, when filed, may afterwards be scraped, so as to present a 
good surface. Rub first with fine sand paper, and then with a 
piece of wet linen cloth dipped in powdered pumice stone; this 
will give a fine surface, and the polish may be produced by fine 
whiting, applied by a piece of cloth wetted in soapsuds. Care 
must be taken in this, tind in every instance where articles of 
different fineness are successively used, that previous to apply¬ 
ing a finer, every particle of the coarser material be removed, 
and that the rags be clean and free from grit. 

White.— To make this splendid polish, grind dry zinc white 
with white varnish, which affords a glossy finish, to be laid on 
after the second coat. A more perfect surface may be obtained 
by covering the second coat with several other coats of hard 
drying paint, mixed with turpentine, japan and litharge; then 
rubbing with pumice stone, followed by a coat of polish white, 
and finished with a flow coat of white varnish, containing a 
little zinc white. Although this requires more time and trouble, 
the result will compensate. When the last coat is to be glossy, 
the previous coat must be flat or dead, and a flat coat for finish¬ 
ing should be preceded by a somewhat glossy coat. 

Woods.— 1 . The wood is first well smoothed with fine sand¬ 
paper, then covered with a thin coating of size from transpar¬ 
ent glue, or thin shellac, to prevent the varnish from sinking 
into the wood. When dry, pour some varnish into a saucer; 

























252 


DEPARTMENT V. 


take a fine camel’s hair brush, and cotnmence to varnish at one 
corner, gradually spreading over the whole surface. Take care 
that there is not too much varnish on the brush, otherwise an 
even surface cannot be obtained. The first cqating must be 
allowed to dry, which will take 2 or .‘3 hours; then sand-paper 
the surface smooth. This done, with great care spread the next 
coat of varnish, always using sand-paper when the surface does 
not turn out smooth. The whole, when dry, may be rubbed well 
with a piece of warm woolen till bright and ‘smooth. 2 . To 
French polish, make the wood smooth; then pour some pre¬ 
pared polish into a saucer, and some linseed oil into another; 
take some pieces of woolen rag, and roll them up into a ball, 
covering them with a piece of linen drawn tightly over; the 
rags inside should first be saturated with the polish, and the 
whole should be taken in the fingers of the right hand in such a 
way that the linen may be drawn tightly over, and may present 
to the wood a smooth, rounded surface.. Polish with free, cir¬ 
cular strokes, and gradually traverse the whole surface; apply 
now and then a drop of polish and a drop of oil to the surface 
of the rubber. When the grain of the wood disappears, allow 
it to stand 1 hour, or until hard, and then sand-paper the whole; 
repeat the polishing until smooth. If dull patches appear, they 
may be removed by a few drops of spirits wine or a ne w rubber 
.T. Dissolve, by heat, so much beeswax in spirits turpentine, that 
when cold it shall be thick as honey. This may be applied to 
furniture or to work running in the lathe, by means of a piece 
of clean cloth, and as much as possible should then be rubbed 
off by means of a clean flannel. Beeswax alone is often used; 
upon furniture it must be melted by means of a warm flat-iron; 
but it may be applied to work in the lathe, by holding the wax 
against it until a portion of it adheres; a piece of woolen cloth 
should then be held upon it. and the lathe turned quickly, so as 
to melt the wax; the superfluous portion may be removed by a 
small piece of wood, when a light touch with a clean part of the 
cloth will give it a gloss. A good polish may be given to ma¬ 
hogany by rubbing it with linseed oil, and then holding against 
it a cloth dipped in fine brick dust. 4 . (Dark). Seed lac 1 
ounce, gum guaiacum, dragon’s blood, and gum mastic, of each 
2 drams. Put in a bottle with 1 pint spirits wine; cork close; 
expose to a moderate heat till dissolved; strain into a bottle for 
use, with M gill linseed oil; shake together. 5. Take a piece of 
smooth pumice stone and water and pass repeatedly over the 
work till the rising of the grain is cut down; then take pow¬ 
dered tripoli and boiled linseed oil, and polish bright. 


STAINING. 

Black.— 1 . Boil y 2 pound chip logwood in 2 quarts of water; 
add 1 ounce pearlash, and apply it hot to the work with a brush 
then take y 2 pound logwood, boil it as before in 2 quarts of wa- 














































ter and add y. ounce verdigris and % ounce copperas; stain, put 
m ',2 pound rusty steel filings; with this go over the work a 
second time. 2. (Ebony imitation.) Mix up a strong stain of 
copperas and logwood; to this add powdered nut-gall; stain 
with this solution; dry and rub down well: oil and use French 
polish, made tolerably dark with indigo, or finely powdered stone 
blue. 

Black Walnut.— 1. One-quarter pound asphaltum. y 2 pound 
common beeswax, and 1 gallon of turpentine. If the mixture is 
found too thin, add more beeswax: if too light in color, add more 
asphaltum; a very little will make a great difference in the 
shade: varnishing is not necessary. A good stain for pine. 2. 
Take 1 gallon very thin sized shellac, and add 1 pound dry burnt 
umber, 1 pound dry burnt sienna, y pound lampblack; put these 
into a jug, and shake frequently till mixed; apnly 1 coat with a 
brush; when dry sand-paper with fine paper, and apply 1 coat of 
shellac varnish. A good imitation of solid walnut. It may be 
used on pine and white wood. 

Rlue.—1. Into a clean glass bottle put 1 pound oil vitriol and 
4 ounces best indigo, pounded in a mortar; take care to set the 
bottle in a basin or earthen glazed pan, as it will ferment; put 
the veneers into a copper or stone trough; fill it with rather 
more than y water, and add as much of the vitriol and indigo as 
will make a fine blue; let the veneers remain until the dye has 
struck through. The color will be improved if the solution of 
indigo in vitriol be kept a few weeks before using. The color 
strikes better if the veneers are boiled in plain water remaining 
a few hours thereafter to dry previous to immersing in the dye. 

Brown.— Boil y 2 pound Vandyke brown and 2 ounces carbon¬ 
ate of soda in 12 ounces water, and add % ounce bichromate of 
potassa; or use a weak aqueous solution of permanganate of 
potassa in water. 

Floor Stains.— The cheapest stain of any color is made with 
aniline colors dissolved in hot water. Some of these will fade 
but yellow, red and brown, especially when covered with a coat 
of linseed oil will last a longtime. Any shade can be obtained 
by mixing. See “Glue Paint for Kitchen Floors,” Department 
IV., Cleaning and Repairing. 

FiS'tit Reddish.—Boil % pint madder and y pound fustic to 
1 gallon of water; brush the work when boiling hot until pro¬ 
perly stained. 

Mahogany.— 1. Break 2 ounces dragon’s blood in small 
pieces and put in I quart alcohol; let the bottle stand in a warm 
place and shake it frequently; use when dissolved. An excellent 
imitation of mahogany for soft w^oods. 2. (On maple.) Dragon's 
blood y 2 ounce, alkanet y ounce, aloes 1 dram, alcohol l(j 
ounces. 

Oak.— Wash the wood carefully in a solution of 1 pound of 
copperas dissolved in 1 gallon strong lye water; when the wood 

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2o4 


DEPARTMENT V 


is dry after saturation, oil it and it will look fresh for a year or 
two. When it becomes dim with age, restain and oil. The hands 
must be protected while applying the stain or they will become 
blistered. 

Re<l, Cherry.— Rain water 3 quarts, annotto 4 ounces; boil 
in a copper kettle until the annotto is dissolved; then putina 
piece of potash the size of a walnut; keep it on the lire % hour- 
longer; then bottle for use. 


SOriE ADDITIONAL PROCESSES FOR STAINING WOOD. 

Q °f, P ear ] asb 1 ounce, Brazil wood, in 
chips, 1 pound, water 1 gallon. Let them stand together 2 or 
3 days, during which time the mixture should be freouentlv 
stirred; then boil it for 2 or 3 hours, and while boiling hot, 

nftSne ?''hm W °° d iut ® nded to be stained 2 or 3 times, or 

oftener, tall the proper tint js obtained. While wet brush it 
nVerwith a solution of alum in water, made in the proportion of 
2 ounces of alum to a quart of water. 

A Light Red, Approaching- to Pink._Add to n uniinn 

of the above infusion 2 additional ounces of pearl ash 8 ' The 
wood m this case should be often brushed over with the solution 
of alum. By increasing the quantity of pearlash the red mav 

portlonate^uantiti 6 of r 10re pea f lash is’added, a pro^ 

quired Quantity of the solution ol alum will also be re- 

. A Very Bark Red Stain.— Take of salt of tartar 1 ounce 
logwood in chips, H pound, water 2 quarts. Boil the logwood 
the water till it becomes of a very dark red color? then 
add the salt of tartar, and boil for 2 more hours. The decoction 
must be applied to the wood boiling hot. uecocuon 

The Old Method of Coloring- Wood Red.— Dissolve 1 
h™ C n tvf dra S?n’s blood in 1 pint of rectified spirits of w r ine- 
qu^d ?okm° d ° Vei WUh thLs varuLsh tm il appears of the re- 

A Yellow Stain.— Take of turmeric root, in pow-der 1 
ounce, rectified spirits of w-ine 1 pint. Digest for 4 davs Shak¬ 
ir ° C T et'n n b llyn , lixtu . 1 ' e > when il may be strained off for 
R??* L f et i lt ’ be a PP llb d to the w-ood by brushing it over 3 or 4 
the fll !St stain is dry before the second is 
If the dolo j' be , required of a reddish cast, a little drag¬ 
on s blood may be added to the mixture. ° 

V e llow Stain. —Take of alum 14 ounce French 
btines 1 pound, soft water 1 gallon. Boil them together for 2 
ri!nt S h and wbl *e boiling brush over the w-ood with the decoction 
till it becomes of the required color. After the stain has been 
some houis applied, so that the wood is become quite drv bru'-h 
it over with a weak solution of alum water. q 7 ’ h 













































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iVJ) 


Blue Stains.— Wood may be stained blue by either a solu¬ 
tion of copper or of indigo. Copper will produce a bright color, 
and is more generally practicable. 

A Blue Stain with Copper. — Dissolve copper-filings or 
slips in aquafortis, adding the filings or slips to the acid till all 
effervescence ceases; to the solution add of starch, finely pow¬ 
dered. the weight of one-fifth of the weight of the copper dis¬ 
solved. Make now a solution of pearl-ash in water; put as 
much of this solution to the solution of copper as will cause the 
copper to precipitate in a fine green pow r der. On the first addi¬ 
tion of the pearl-ash solution, the liquid wull appear of a dark 
muddy green; but by adding more of the pearl-ash solution, it 
will soon become clear, and the precipitate assumes a fine green 
color. The clear part must be poured off, and the precipitate 
washed in 3 or 4 quantities of clearwater, till the water becomes 
tasteless. Let the precipitate be dried for use; which is, in fact, 
a “verditer.” After the wood intended to be stained has been 
brushed over in a similar way, as described for other colors, 
till it is stained a dai k green, make a solution consisting of 2 
ounces of pearl-ash in a pint of water, and brush it over the 
wood boiling-hot, when it will appear of a fine deep blue color. 

A Green Stain.— This may be made with the same precipi¬ 
tate of any tint, by merely melting the solution of pearl-ash. 
and brushing the mixture over the wood once or more, accord¬ 
ing to the required tint. 

A Blue Stain w itli Indigo.— Dissolve indigo in sulphuric 
acid, or a liquid blue may be thus prepared: Put 3 ounces of in¬ 
digo, in powder, to 1 pound of sulphuric acid. When the indigo 
is dissolved, which it will be in about 24 hours, provided the 
mixture has been occasionally stirred, add to the solution 1 pint 
of boiling water. This solution must be applied to the wood 
boiling-hot. Dissolve by boiling 3 ounces of cream of tartar in 
a quart of water; with this solution, used copiously, brush over 
the wood before the moisture of the indigo is quite absorbed. 

A Purple Stain.— Take of Brazil-wood, in chips, 4 ounces, 
logwood chips. 1 pound, water, 1 gallon. Boil these together 
for 2 or 3 hours. The decoction must be applied boiling-hot. 
When dry. brush it over with a solution containing 14 ounce 
pearl-ash to % gallon water. This solution must be carefully 
used, as it gradually changes its color from a brown-red, which 
it originally is, to a dark blue purple, and therefore its effects 
must be carefully noted to make the desired color. 

A Blaelt Stain.— Brush the wood several times with the hot 
decoction of logwood described in the last article, omitting the 
Brazil-wood; next prepare an infusion thus; Take of powdered 
galls, 4 ounces, water 2 quarts. Place them in a gentle heat for 
3 or 4 days: brush the wood over with this infusion 3 or 4 
times, and then pass over the wood again w r ith a solution com¬ 
posed of 2 ounces of sulphate of iron, and a quart of water. 




if. 










































































256 


DEPARTMENT V 


A Very Fine Rlack can be produced by brushing the wood 
several times with a solution of copper in aqua-fortis, and after¬ 
ward with the decoction of logwood, which must be repeated 
till the desired color is obtained, and then the greenness of the 
copper wholly overcome. 

A Common Rlack Stain is produced by immersing a 
pound of iron nails into y 2 gallon of vinegar, with a small quan¬ 
tity of verdigris. This is the common black stain for chairs; it 
is also useful to mix with colors that require grain, rosewood, 
tulip, etc. 

Mahogany Stains.— These stains are very useful, and if 
well prepared and applied to suitable wood, resemble red 
mahogany. 

A Light-Reel Brown Mahogany.— Take of fustic chips 
4 ounces, madder root, in powder, y 2 pound, water 1 gallon. 
Boil together for 2 or more hours. This decoction must be ap¬ 
plied to the wood boiling hot, till the proper color is obtained. 
If the grain of the wood be not sufficiently varied, a varnish 
brush, dipped in the black stain and passed lightly over the wood 
while wet, will greatly improve it, and give it the appearance of 
dark Honduras mahogany. 

A Fine Mahogany Stain is produced by mixing the tinct¬ 
ure of dragon's blood and turmeric root in spirits of wine. By 
diminishing or increasing the proportion of each of the ingredi¬ 
ents, the'brown stain may be varied to a more red or yellow 
cast at pleasure. 

Spanish Mahogany Stain.— Take of madder root, in pow¬ 
der, V 2 pound, fustic chips 1 ounce, logwood chips 2 ounces, wa¬ 
ter 1 gallon. Boil for 2 or 3 hours. Apply the decoction boiling 
hot. When the wood has been brushed* over several times, and 
is become dry, let it be slightly brushed over with a solution of 
li of an ounce of pearlash in 1 quart of water. Any stain of in¬ 
termediate colors may be made by varying the proportion of the 
ingredients. 

Fancy Woods.— The preceding stains may, by judicious 
management, be combined in various ways, so as to represent 
many variegated woods. Rosewood in particular may thus be 
imitated. 

Rosewood Stains. —The articles chiefly stained to imitate 
rosewood are chairs, which are commonly for such purposes 
made of beech. They are usually dipped, in a large copper con¬ 
taining the boiling red stain, then taken out and dried before 
they are dipped again. When the red stain is acquired, a flat 
varnish brush, having its hairs separated, is dipped in the black 
stain, and drawn over the chairs which are stained red. The ap¬ 
plication of some polish to such woods as have just been given, 
is necessary to render them pleasing to the eye. 

To Make Sweet-Oil Turps Without &mell„—Half gal¬ 
lon of gray stone lime, slack it properly in 5*4 gallons water to 












































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[I_i. i.V\|U£jfZ'l 



ALL TRADES 


257 


destroy its property, then put into a can, shaking it 3 or 4 times 
a day, leaving the cork out. Let it properly settle, then pour off 
the water from the lime, which will be oily, then add raw linseed 
oil 534 pints, shaking it 3 or 4 times; after this add 34 pint clari¬ 
fied vitriol to each gallon. It is then fit for use. 

To Varnish Prints. —Dissolve 1 ounce of the best isinglass 
in a pint of water by boiling it over the fire; strain it through 
fine muslin and keep it for use. Try this size on a piece of pa¬ 
per moderately warm; if it glistens it is too thick, add more wa¬ 
ter. If it soaks into the paper it is too thin. Add or diminish 
the isinglass till it merely dulls the surface. Give the print 2 o* 
3 coats, letting it dry between each: bear lightly on your brush, 
which should be a flat tin camel's hair, then with best mastic 
varnish give it 2 or 3 coats. 

To Polish on Paint. —Two and a half ounces of spirit of 
wine. 1 dram of oil of almonds, 1 dram of gum elemi, % ounce of 
orange shellac pounded tine and put altogether in a bottle to dis¬ 
solve. When dissolved rub it on with soft woolen or cotton wad¬ 
ding. 

Rosewood.— Alcohol 1 gallon, camwood 2 ounces; set in a 
warm place 24 hours, then add extract of logwood 3 ounces and 
aquafortis 1 ounce; when dissolved it is ready. This is a fine im. 
itation of rosewood. Give 1 or 2 coats, as desired. 

Sat in wood.— Alcohol 2 pints, powdered gamboge 3 ounces, 
ground tumeric 6 ounces; steep to obtain full strength, strain 
through muslin; apply 2 coats with a fine sponge; sandpaper 
when dry and varnish or French polish. 

Stains for Soft Woods.— Ebony: Make a strong decoction 
of logwood by boiling. Apply 3 or 4 times according to shade 
desired; then app^y solution of acetate of iron. This is made by- 
putting iron filings into strong vinegar. Mahogany, Rosewood, 
or Cherry: Mix Venetian red with white or brown, according tb 
color desired, with turpentine. Walnut; Burnt umber and tur¬ 
pentine. Apply any stain, according to color desired; continued 
applications making the color darker. 


VARNISHES AND JAPANS. 

Including lacquers for metals, etc. Care should be exercised in 
the application of varnishes, etc., as they dry quickly, and if not 
evenly applied present a rough unfinished appearance. 

Amber Varnish, Rale. —Amber, pale and transparent, 0 
pounds, fuse: add hot clarified linseed oil 2 gallons: boil till it 
strings strongly; cool a little and add oil turpentine 4 gallons. 
Soon becomes hard and is the most durable of oil varnishes, but 
requires time before fit for polishing. 

Anti-Rust Varnisli for Iron or Steel.— Resin 120 parts, 
sandarac 180 parts, gum lac 60 part's, essence of turpentine 120 


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ICIH4 


lUfH 


258 


department 


parts, rectified alcohol 180 parts. Pound the first ino-rianm-nrc. 

ssssssstps 

asphalt, stirring it with the boiline- tar until »h a i OI um P 
°° 01 - A 

USPEEf 

of^Ianon ^eVwMft? T *>““» 

the dust and other impurities from i hmlilJ; n . ot only , to keep 
light and hot rays of the sun Itmay admit the 

sun till it gets fat and colorless and iFwm hJSVf exposed to the 
yellow is an excellent substitute ?or wh/Ji mS for ™?- French 
many varnish-makers in preference as iuSiiS 1S used by 
?Ssh aUer ° Ut0f tbeo11 and so °“ reoSit 11 ?utoWe t fo?S 

po“df?u of 1 tetoffTl’S?,' bal ? am of ca P* v l 1 
fire and the balsam previous) vTipi tPfi P pf m J 3 - me . lted over a 

SelS^ th “ add sufflclent copal y^n^S’JSbwefr^ 

b“ck C afte^:S 0 n"S iSfEdlSS IS?' “i»‘ > e S-'ouuded 
brush, imitating the streak m /? ad and a PP^ r w^h a stiff flat 
quantity of lake g ground fine and mSc wi?h hr?i en take a sma11 
observing to havf no nioie co?m than ViU va - r “ ish * 

too red, add a little umber <mn ^ ' 111 tinge the varnish; if 

of the work intended to imitate m* 11 ! 6, and pass over the whole 
when it isS" tna « *« u d ™‘° 

from rosewood. Vandyke brown rnascarcely be known 
it being more transparent. blOMn may be us ed instead of umber, 

of o i ho/tur^mt fife * *dr op^ ^v ^ rop* ’oi ff^ vitr^ ? srn ^} 1 quantity 
s y rup y precipitate, which no Ion £ev increase^ in’hS m£° rmS a 
is then poured over with water stirv^ «-mi M bulk - The mass 
and repeated as often as it shows a trap? of’ ^. e , wate r removed, 
per; the remaining precipitate is ttmi c t a< " k i litmus pa- 
required lor use a porUou‘of it is applied 1 ^ntKon^tove, eS 


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ALIi TRADES 


25 ;. 


and the stove heated and the powder burned; if too thick a layer 
it must be thinned and spread out with more turpentine, so as to 
give a uniform coating to the metallic surface: the residue left 
after burning is then rubbed in with a rag dipped in linseed oil 
until the proper polish is acquired. 3. (For coal buckets.) As- 
phaltum 1 pound, lampblack pound, resin y 2 pound, spirits of 
turpentine 1 quart; dissolve the asphaltum and resin in the 
turpentine, then rub up the lampblack with linseed oil to a paste 
and mix with the others. Apply with a brush. 

Boohbinder’s Tarnish. —Shellac 8 parts, gum benzoin 3 
parts, gum mastic 2 parts; bruise and digest in alcohol 48 parts, 
oil of lavender V 2 part. Or digest shellac 4 parts, gum mastic 2 
parts, gum dammer and white turpentine, of each 1 part, with 
alcohol (95 per cent) 28 parts. 

. Brass. Lacquer For.—I. Turmeric 1 ounce, saffron and an- 
nottoeaclij^ ounce, rectified spirits 1 pint: digest at a gentle 
heat for several days; strain through coarse linen; bottle and 
add 3 ounces coarsely pulverized seed lac; place in a moderate 
heat and shake occasionally till dissolved. 2 . Alcohol 12 gal¬ 
lons. seed lac 9 pounds, turmeric 1 pound to 1 gallon of the above 
mixture, Spanish saffron 4 ounces; the saffron is to be added for 
bronze work. 3. (Gold colored.) Alcohol 36 ounces, seed lac 6 
ounces, amber 2 ounces, gum gutta 2 ounces, red sandalwood 24 
grains, dragon’s blood 60 grains, oriental saffron 36 grains, pul¬ 
verized glass 4 ounces. 4 . (Red.) Alcohol 8 gallons, dragon’s 
blood 4 pounds. Spanish annatto 12 pounds, gum sandarac 13 
pounds, turpentine 1 gallon. 

Brown Lacquer for Copper Bronze.— Two and one-half 

ounces shellac, 2 quarts wine spirits. 2 ounces gum sandarac, V% 
ounce gum elimi; mix and keep warm until a solution is effected, 
then strain and color with dragon's blood and aniline brown to 
suit. 

Brushes, Varnish, Care Of.— Suspend them by the 
handles in a tightly covered can, keeping the points % inch from 
the bottom and apart from each other. The can should be filled 
with slowly drying varnish up to 1-16 inch above the bristles, 
and the can kept in a close cupboard. As wiping a brush on a 
sharp edge will ruin it, the top of the can should have a wire 
soldered along the edge of the tin, turned over. Finishing 
brushes should not be cleansed in turpentine. When taken from 
the can prepare them for use by working them out in varnish, 
and before replacing, clean the handles and binding with tur¬ 
pentine. 

Cabinet Varnish.— Fuse 7 pounds of fine African gum copal; 
when it runs freely, pour into it y 2 gallon clarified linseed oil; 
when clear remove from the fire, and mix 3 gallons spirits of 
turpentine with it and strain. If properly boiled, it will dry in 
10 minutes; if boiled too much, it will not mix with the turpen¬ 
tine. Used by Japanner’s, cabinet and coach makers. 

Carriage Japan.— Forty gallons of raw linseed oil, 40 



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Smese S&wiS?? n,ls re £ 1 f 1 ac1 ' 10 pounds black oxide man. 
gdnese, z pounds white gum shellac; set the oil over tVm firp muh 
bring to the boiling point; add by degrees litharcfand red lSd 
alternately and slowly; add the gum, and when melted outdn 
the manganese, tndksep the whole in rapid motion from the time 
the oil is at 200 Fahr. until the making is finished 

l«A»ui£8 §?>*?»§ 

fled oil. H pound dried sugar of lead M Sund §&££“KvS?' 
Ions turpentine; mix with the first while hot -phk 5^;,'• n g 
toy *toi if well boiled la four houls inwiei- lad sSx faM-i! ‘ 

sssswSi ¥ 

and in two in summer. Used for varnishing da e™ 1U wmte ?« 
or black japan, and by house pa&SS foJdS-k wo?k *** ™’ k 

reSiKpl?ltlM <» 1 Pint 

perature at least FaS be " sed in a tem ‘ 
in a few minutes and is nm lffw^ivL?® 6 ^’ om dust - 11 drles 
It is particularly applicable to (lrn whi!r« ard to c .hill or bloom, 
been sized, and mav be mi!- ,,,, and P rint .? that have 


applications are numerous- in fwTi'Tra‘XiT° + l v "^“ ip ‘ useiui 

best hard-spirit varnishes ’ 2 \ i. be P ur P°^ es of the 

made by digesting 4 ounces rioar ^ ac Va,rms h may be 

wine in a wlde-Sfuthed SmnL iLf^ lne - d 1;ic iu 1 P int spirits of 
3 days, andoccasionally^hakhiff^ir 1 ^ P} a ^e for 2 or 

through flannel into another bottle for U m> ssolve<1 ’ straiI » 

Ions"^Lrof r "f?l‘'.r! 1 V,M,!!, m , Copal 8 pounds, linseed oil 2 gal- 

stiingy.^rGuS%.?lT^S e »/ 3 ‘1, ^S allo ,"l ; **>" “““> 

& Pounds, turpentine 5*4 gallon’s Von<f S ^ lphate of iron 
painting, in making t.h« X° od tor . lK) use and sign 

luanti- 
aining 


painting, in making the above rnfn U° od tor . house and sign 
ty of boiling oil aud^pour* gradually }|£® 

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ALL 7 _DES 

the other on while boiling. When clone and cool enough not to 
ignite the turpentine, add it. 3. Fuse 8 parts fine African cona! 
and add 2- gallons clarified oil; boil slowly 4 or 5 hours until 
^ e T ; A^ en inix wlth 31/2 - allons turpentine. 4. (Traiispaient 
green.) A transparent green varnish is made by taking a small 
quantity of Chinese blue with about twice the amomit finely 
, chroma te of potash; stir these in copal varnish thin¬ 
ned with turpentine; thoroughly grind the mixture intimatelv 
incorporating the Ingredients, otherwise it wTlfiS be tainlm? 
preponclerance of chromate of potash gives a ye llowish 
^ deflcienc y increases the amount of blue. ’Thus col- 
01 eel it produces a striking effect in japanned goods naner hancr- 
ings, etc., and can be made very cheaply ’ P P ang 

Flexible Varnish.— This is used for balloons, gas bags etc. 
* India lubber cut small 114 ounces, chloroform, mashed ether 

1 piut ! ; Vi igest in the cold until solution 
is complete. Dries as soon as laid on. Pure eutta-nercha nmv 

hi/oii^ouS• 2 * India rubber 1 ounce, d-r/ 

3 g LinsiSi Si d in Ve ^ bea ^ ; . vei T tough; dries in 48 hours. 

01 P gallon, dned white copperas and sugar of lead 

nntVMt 3 ® unces - 111 rge 8 ounces; boil with constant agitation 
untH it stnngs; then cool slowly and decant the clear portion- if 

too thick thm with quick-drying linseed oil. * 

Furniture Varnish — 1 . Shellac 1% pounds naphtha 1 
gallon; dissolve, and it is ready without filtering. 3 . Shellac 12 
ounces, copal 3 ounces; dissolve in 1 gallon naphtha. 3 . Shellac 
1/4 pounds, seed lac and sandarac, of each 4 ounces mastic 0 
ounces, rectified spirit 1 gallon; dissolve. 4. Shellac 2 pSunSs^ 
benzoin 4 ounces, spirit 1 gallon. 5. Shellac 10 ounces s?eed lac 
sandai ac, and copal varnish, oi each 6 ounces, benzoin 3 ounces’ 
naphtha 1 gallon To darken use benzoin and dragon's blood ’ 
turmeric and other coloring matters are also added; to make it 
eredient?® ! e S? lac, though some add oxalic acid to the in- 

1,1 - s P irit or naphtha. For ordinary 
aiiy^ottfer 116 firSt form 18 best > while its appearance is equal to 

Glass Varnish.— Fuse together 15 parts powdered auartz of 
of fine sand, 10parts of potash, and 1 of charcoal; pulverize the 
mass tintl expose it for some days to the air; treat the whole 
vvith cold water, which removes the foreign salts, etc.; boil the 
lesidue in o parts water until it dissolves. It is permanent in 

efe, a fr r om fl?e d by cold water - Usea to Proiectwood" 

Glass Varnish .—1 . Wax 1 ounce, mastic y 2 ounce.asphaltum 
par™, 1 o?i o?s?ll"eTpai£ am - ~ 15 parts ’ ‘"n-entlue 7 

b . ((,< i a dram y, thm mastic varnish 8 ounces; digest with agita¬ 
tion 14 days in a warm place, then set aside to fine, and pour off 






262 


DEPARTMENT V 


clear. 2. Dutch leaf 1 part, gamboge 4 parts, gum dragon 4 
parts, proof spirit 18 parts. Macerate 12 hours and then grind. 

Cirates, Varnish For.— Melt 4 pounds common asphaltum, 
add 2 pints linseed oil and 1 gallon oil turpentine. If too thick 
add more turpentine. 

Orecian Varnish.— Three ounces balsam fir, 2 ounces alco¬ 
hol, 1 ounce spirits turpentine. Mix together. 

India Rubber Varnish. — 1. Two ounces India rubber fine¬ 
ly divided; place in a vial and digest in a sand bath with 
pound camphene and y 2 ounce naphtha. When dissolved add 1 
ounce copal varnish, which renders it more durable. 2. Digest 
in a wide-mouthed glass bottle 2 ounces india rubber in shav¬ 
ings with 1 pound oil turpentine during 2 days without shaking; 
then stir with a wooden spatula. Add another pound oil of tur¬ 
pentine and digest with agitation until dissolved. Mix \y t 
pounds of this solution with 2 pounds white copal oil varnish 
and 1{4 boiled linseed oil. Shake and digest in a sand bath until 
united in good varnish. 3. Four ounces india rubber in shav¬ 
ings; dissolve in a covered jar by means of a sand bath in 2 
pounds crude benzole, and then mix with 4 pounds hot linseed 
oil varnish and y z pound oil turpentine. Dries well. 

Iiinseed Oil Varnisli.— Pour 25 pounds pure linseed oil in 
an enameled iron pot which holds about 40 pounds weight; then 
place in a moderately strong charcoal fire and heat the oil y 2 
1 our to boiling point; in the meantime rub 4 ounces pure oxide 
jf manganese in linseed oil; put this mass into a small vessel 
provided with a spout and pour in drops into the boiling linseed 
oil, while being gently stirred with a wooden spatula. During ef- 
fervesence of the oil the dropping in of the manganese must stop. 
As soon as the oil has settled the dropping in is continued to the 
last. The vessel is washed out with linseed oil. which is poured 
into the boiling oil. The varnish is now boilod slowly 1 hour, 
but if stronger varnish is desired boil y 2 hour or 1 hour longer. 
When removed from the fire cover with a clean plate and let rest 
24 hours; then carefully pour off into clean vessels: the sedi¬ 
ment and other residue are used for the preparation of ordinary 
ground colors. The varnish when poured into glass bottles can 
then be bleached by exposure to the sun and moon, Moonlight 
bleaches quicker than sunlight. The bleached is used only for 
the finest white oil and lac colors, and for dissolving fine copal 
lacs, as well as a drying medium for fine oil colors. 

Mahogany Varnish.— Gum anime 8 pounds clarified oil 3 
gallons, litharge and powdered dry sugar of lead, of each y 2 
pound. Proceed as for body varnishes and thin with oil turpen¬ 
tine 5 gallons or a sufficient quantity. 

Mastic Varnish. — 1 . Pale and bleached gum mastic 5 
pounds, glass (pounded small, washed and dried) 3 pounds, fin¬ 
est newly rectified oil of turpentine (lukewarm) 2 gallons; put 
them into a 4-gallon tin bottle or can, buug down, and keep roll¬ 
ing it backwards and forwards smartly on a counter or other 






































& 


smooth place 4 hours: when the sum is dissolved the varnish 

anYalfow^d to^eVnJ 3,1 ^ t?, thr 1 ou ? h 1 . nusJin into another bottle 
ana allowed to settle; if the solutionis still incomplete the ae-ita- 

&?? be co t inue<J n . or g<mUe warm °Hpplie5 le,?v 

nne. ,3, .Mastic 4 pounds, oil turpentine 2 gallons • dissolve hv 
heat. Used for pictures,etc.: when good it is tough brillfanf 

STM SW&S^T&S? 55g 

tatfl'^inuSf a a n fetTi e tr derate,y hM - “ eacl1 gallon; agt ' 

par t^of ^eThnw !o * ~ 0n e part Sum shellac dissolved in 3 or 4 
paitsoi alcohol, 92 per cent; nnx with 1 part water- filtered 

SS n^ and the S0pI ^ i0n distilled until the alcohol is’evapora- 
?he gum precipitated from this solution is dried on a wa- 
per^ent. and dlssolved in double its weight of alcohol of 96 to 98 

Pint7iTi seed \dl*■!5? Y* P° nnd asphaltum and add to it % 

Srate« T? d + ^i fi? 4 d , X tur Pentine; this will be enough for 4 
grates. If too thick as it gets to the bottom, add more turpen- 

o 1 ,?rfVi It 1 1S i fo ^ bia< l c stoves, which must be washed clean of dirt 
and black lead, and when dry apply the varnish with a brush. 

coTftai^ Ir 1 or V ) Place a convenient quantity 

coal tar in small retorts, and heat until the oil commences to 

distil over; then let the retort cool somewhat; when thev are 
opened and a proportionate quantity of heavy oil of tar added 
and the mixture well stirred; then pour the mixture out and the 
operation-is complete. Made in this way it is preferable to tar 
and dries in from 24 to 48 hours. By incorporating naphtha of 
the lowest quality (to do which the mass must be warm) with 
le material made with light oil instead of heavy oil. a varnish 
may be obtained which will dry in 1 hour or less 2 Tar 2 tral 
Ions tallow 1 pound; melt, then add ground ochre 7 pounds 
spirits of turpentine 6 pounds; mix well. By regulat?ne- the 
b e echocolate paint for rough out- 

1 ak 1 e whiting and rub it over the back of the paper upon 
which your design is made, and lay it upon the japanned t£F 
next place a weight upon the four corners of the paper- then’ 
vith a pointed piece of hard wood, trace the design bearing 

W1 $ b point hard enough to cause the whiting 
on the other side of the paper to adhere to the tin. After goinl 
over the whole you will have transferred the design in fine out? 
line to the tin. Size with oil size, and when dry enough for gild- 

wftll a a y tot camel's toir brush* 6 “ d0 '™ ; b ™ sh 0ft the loose goW 
let the whole remain 14 days, and agitate once a day; when com- 


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264 


DEPARTMENT V 


7 

/ 



hined, strain through muslin. It is bruised over tinware in¬ 
tended to imitate brass. 

Turpentine Varnish.— Put 1 pint turpentine into a bottle, 
with % pound white resin in powder; dissolve in a gentle heat 
by placing the bottle in an iron pot surrounded by dry sand, over 
a moderate fire. 

Transparent Japan.— 1 . Oil of turpentine 4 ounces, oil of 
lavender 3 ounces, camphor L A dram, copal 1 ounce; dissolve. 
Used to japan tin, but quick copal varnish is mostly used in¬ 
stead. 2. Copal varnish 35 parts, camphor 1 part, boiled oil 2 
parts; mix. 

Violin Varnish.— 1 . Rectified spirits of wine % gallon; add 
6 ounces gum sandarac, 3 ounces gum mastic, and *4 pint tur¬ 
pentine varnish; put the above in a tin can by the stove, fre¬ 
quently shaking till dissolved; strain and keep for use. If you 
find it harder than you wish, thin with turpentine varnish. 2. 
Heat together at a low temperature 2 quarts alcohol, y 2 pint tur¬ 
pentine varnish and 1 pound clean gum mastic. When the latter 
is dissolved, strain through cloth. 3. Coarsely powdered copal 
and glass of each 4 ounces, alcohol 64 per cent (1 pint), camphor 
V 2 ounce. Heat the mixture with frequent stirring in a water- 
bath until the solution is complete. When cold decant tne clear 
portion. 

Wax Varnish.— 1. Take of pure white wax 1 pound, melt 
with gentle heat; add of warm rectified spirits (specific gravity 
83) 1 pint; mix and pour the liquid out upon a cold slab; grind 
to a smooth paste, adding more spirits as required. Put the 
paste into a marble mortar, fiiake an emulsion with 3)4 pints of 
water, gradually added, and strain through muslin. Used as a 
varnish for paintings. When dry a hot iron is passed over it. so 
as to fuse it and render it transparent; when cold it is polished 
with a clean linen cloth. The most protective of all varnishes. 
2. Wax 5 ounces, oil of turpentine 1 quart; dissolve. Used for 
furniture. 

White Varnish.— 1. Gum sandarac 3 ounces, mastic in drops 
1 ounce, gum elemi y 2 ounce, oil of spike lavender, l A ounce; put 
into a 1 pint vial and fill up with best spirits of wine; let it 
stand in a rather warm place till the gums are dissolved, then 
pour off into a clean vial, and it is ready. 2. (Imitation ivory.) 
Take y 2 ounce isinglass, boiled gently in l A pint of water till dis¬ 
solved; then strain and add flake white powder till it becomes 
as white as cream. Give the box or carved wood three or four 
coats, letting each dry before the other is put on; then smooth 
with a damp rag. It has the appearace of ivory. If, when mixed 
it looks too white, a few grains of carmine will give it a pink 
look, or use chrome yellow. Either of these colors impi’ove it. 






























































all trades 


265 


GENERAL HINTS ON JAPANNING AND VARNISHING. 

Japanning is the art of covering bodies by grounds of opaque 
colors in varnish, which may be afterward decorated by print¬ 
ing 01 gilding, or left in a plain state. It is also to be looked 
upon in another sense, as that of ornamenting coaches, snull 
boxes, screens, etc. All surfaces to be japanned must be per¬ 
fectly clean, and leather should be stretched on frames. Paper 
should be stiff for japanning. The French prime all their ja¬ 
panned articles, the English do not. This priming is generallv 
of common size. Those articles that are primed thus, never en¬ 
dure as well as those that receive the japan coating on the first 
operation, and thus it is that those articles of japan work that 
are primed with size when they are used for some time, crack 
and the coats of japan fly off in flakes. A solution of strong 
isinglass size and honey, or sugar candy, makes a good japan 
varnish to cover water colors on gold grounds. A pure white 
pruning for japanning, for the cheap method, is made with 
parchment size, and one-third of isinglass, laid on very thin and 
smooth. It is the better for three coats, and when the last coat 
is dry, it is prepared to receive the coating painting or figures. 
Previous to the last coat, however, the work should be smoothly 
polished. When wood or leather is to be japanned, and no prim¬ 
ing used, the best plan is to lay on 2 or 3 coats of varnish made 
of seed-lac and resin, 2 ounces each, dissolved in alcohol and 
strained through a cloth. This varnish should be put on in a 
warm place, and the work to be varnished should, if possible, be 
warm also, and all dampness should be avoided, to prevent the 
varnish from being chilled. When the work is prepared with 
the above composition and dry, it is fit for the proper japan to 
be laid on. If the ground is not to be white the best varnish 
now to be used is made of shellac, as it is the best vehicle for all 
kind of colors. This is made in the proportions of the best shel¬ 
lac, o ounces, made into powder, steeped in a quart of alcohol, 
) and kept at a gentle heat 2 or 3 days and shaken frequently, 
after which the solution must be filtered through a flannel bag, 
and kept in a well corked bottle for use. This varnish for hard 
japanning on copper or tin will stand forever, unless fire or ham¬ 
mer be used to burn or beetle it off. The color to be used with 
shellac varnish may be of any pigments whatever to give the de¬ 
sired shade, as this varnish will mix with any color. 

White Japan Grounds.— To form a hard, perfect white 
ground is no easy matter, as the substances which are generally 
used to make the japan hard, have a tendencv. by a number of 
coats, to look or become dull in brightness. One white ground 
is made by the following composition: White flake or lead 
washed over and ground up with a sixth of its weight of starch, 
then dried and mixed with the finest gum, ground up in parts of 
1 ounce gum to ounce of rectified turpentine mixed and 
ground thoroughly together. This is to be finely laid on the ar¬ 
ticle to be japanned, dried and then varnished with 5 or 6 coats 





















\>s 



of the following: Two ounces of the whitest seed lac to 3 ounces 
of gum aniina l'educed to a fine powder and dissolved in a quart 
of alcohol. This lac must be carefully picked. For a softer var¬ 
nish than this, a little turpentine should be added, and less of 
the gum. A very good varnish and not brittle, may be made by 
dissolving gum anima in nut oil, boiling it gently as the gum is 
added, and giving the oil as much gum as it will take up. The 
ground of white varnish may of itself be made of this varnish, 
by giving 2 or 3 coats of it, but when used it should be diluted 
with pure turpentine. Although this varnish is not brittle, it is 
liable to be indented with strokes, and it will not bear to be pol¬ 
ished, but if well laid on it will not need polishing afterward; it 
also takes some time to dry. Heat applied to ali oils, however, 
darkens their color, and oil varnishes for white grow very yel¬ 
low if not exposed to a full clear light. 

Gum Copal.— Copal varnish is one of the very finest var¬ 
nishes for japanning purposes. It can be dissolved by linseed 
oil, rendered dry by adding some quicklime at a heat somewhat 
less than will boil or decompose the oil by it. This solution, 
with the addition of a little turpentine, forms a very transpar¬ 
ent varnish, which, when properly applied and slowly dried is 
very hard and durable. This varnish is applied to snuff boxes, 
tea boards and other utensils. It also preserves paintings and 
renders their surfaces capable of reflecting light more uniformly. 
If powdered copal be mixed in a mortar with camphor, it softens 
and becomes a coherent mass, and if camphor be added to alco¬ 
hol it becomes an excellent solvent of copal by adding the copal 
well ground, and employing a tolerable degree of heat having 
the vessel well corked which must have a long neck for the al¬ 
lowance of expansion, and the vessel must only be about H filled 
with the mixture. Copal can also be incorporated with turpen¬ 
tine, with 1 part of powdered copal to 12 parts of pure turpen¬ 
tine, subjected to the heat of a sand bath for several days in a 
long necked mattras, shaking it frequently. Copal is a good 
varnish for metals, such as fin; the varnish must be dried in an 
oven, each coat, and it can be colored with some substances, but 
alcohol varnish will mix with any coloring matter. For white 
japans or varnishes, we have already shown that fine chalk or 
white lead was used as a basis, and the varnishes coated over it. 
To japan or varnish white leather, so that it may be elastic, is 
altogether different work from varnishing or japanning wood or 
metal, or napier mache. For white leather, oil is the principal 
ingredient, as it is well known that chalk is extensively used to 
give white leather its pure color, or speaking more philosophic¬ 
ally, its fair colorless whiteness. White leather having already 
the basis of white varnish, it should get a light coat of the pure 
varnish before mentioned, and dried well in the oven, ora coat 
of the oil copal will answer very well This being well dried, 
boiled nut oil nicely coated and successively dried, will make a 
most beautiful white varnish for leather, not liable to crack. 
This quality takes a long time to dry, and of course is more ex- 


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<■ j > ^ “TWi.'JiJi^wcafe^l /8»S!s ^ - Ih'l r 


ALL TRADES 


267 



m,-) 

li I v \-\ 




pensive. Coarse varnish may be made of boiled linseed oil, into 
which is added gradually the acetate of lead as a drier. This ad¬ 
dition must be done very cautiously as the oil will be apt to foam 
over. A better and more safe drying mixture than the mere ace¬ 
tate of lead, is to dissolve the acetate of lead in a small quantity 
of water; neutralize the acid with the addition of pipe clay, 
evaporate the sediment to perfect dryness, and feed the oil when 
gently boiling gradually with it. These varnishes or japans, as 
far as described, have only reference to white grounds. There is 
some nice work to be observed, and there is much in applying 
the varnishes at the right time, knowing by the eye the proper 
moment when the mixture is perfect, or when to add any in¬ 
gredient. These things require practice. , 

Black Grounds.— Black grounds for japans may be made 
by mixing ivory black with shellac varnish; or for coarse work, 
lampblack and the top coating of common seedlac varnish. A 
common black japan may be made by painting a piece of work 
with drying oil (oil mixed with lead), and putting the work into 
a stove, not too hot, but of such a degree, gradually raising the 
heat and keeping it up for a long time, so as not to burn the oil 
and make it blister. This process makes very fair japan and re¬ 
quires no polishing. 

Black Japan.— Naples asphaltum 50 pounds, dark gum- 
anime 8 pounds, fuse, add linseed oil 12 gallons, boil, add dark 
gum amber 10 pounds, previously fused and boiled with linseed 
oil 2 gallons, add the driers, and proceed as last. Used for wood 
or metals. 

Brunswick Black.— 1 . Foreign asphaltum, 45 pounds, 
drying oil, 6 gallons, litharge 6 pounds, boil as last, and thin 
with 25 gallons of oil of turpentine. Used for ironwork, etc. 
2. Black pitch and gas tar asphaltum. of each 25 pounds, boil 
gently for 5 hours, then add linseed oil 8 gallons, litharge and 
red lead, of each 10 pounds, boil as before, and thin with oil of 
turpentine 20 gallons. Inferior to the last, but cheaper. 





Blue Japan Grounds. — Blue japan grounds may be 
formed of bright Prussian bluq The color may be mixed with 
shellac varnish, and brought to a polishing state by 5 or 6 coats 
of varnish of seedlac. The varnish, however, is apt to give a 
greenish tinge to the blue, as the varnish has a yellowish tinge, 
and blue and yellow form a green. Whenever a light blue is 
desired, the purest varnish must always be used, 

Scarlet Japan.— Ground vermilion may be used for this, 
but being so glaring it is not beautiful unless covered over with 
rose-pink, or lake, which have a good effect when thus used. For 
a very bright crimson ground, safflower or Indian lake should 
be used, always dissolved in the alcohol of which the varnish is 
made. In place of this lake, carmine may be used, as it is more 
common. The top coat of varnish must always be of the white 
seedlac, which has been before described, and as many coats 
given as will be thought proper; it is easy to judge of this. 






























vts Qt 








Yellow Grounds.— If turmeric be dissolved in the spirit of 
wine and strained through a cloth, and then mixed with pure 
seed lac varnish, it makes a good yellow japan. Saffron will 
answer for the same purpose in the same way, but the brightest 
yellow ground is made by a primary coat of pure chrome yel¬ 
low, and coated successively with the varnish. Dutch pink is 
used for a kind of cheap yellow japan ground. If a little 
dragon’s blood be added to the varnish for yellow japan, a most 
beautiful and rich salmon-colored varnish is the result, and by 
these two mixtures all the shades of flesh-colored japans are 
produced. 

Green Japan Grounds. —A good green may be made by 
mixing Prussian blue along wit'h the cromate of lead, or with 
turmeric, or orpiment (sulphuret of arsenic), or ocher, only the 
two should be ground together and dissolved in alcohol and ap¬ 
plied as a ground, then coated with 4 or 5 coats of shellac var¬ 
nish, in the manner already described. A very bright green is 
made by laying on a ground of Dutch metal, or leaf of gold, and 
then coating it over with distilled verdigris dissolved in alcohol, 
then the varnishes on the top. This is a splendid green, brilliant 
and glowing. 

Orange-Colored Grounds.— Orange grounds maybe made 
of yellow mixed with vermilion or carmine, just as a bright or 
rather inferior color is wanted. The yellow should always be m 
quantity to make a good full color, and the red added in propor¬ 
tion to the depth of the s’.ade. If there is not a good full body of 
yellow the color will loo;: watery, or bare, as it is technically 
termed. 

♦Purple Japan Grounds.— This is made by a mixture of 
lake and Prussian blue, or carmine, or, for an inferior color, ver¬ 
milion, and treated as the foregoing. When the ground is laid 
on and perfectly dried, a fine coat of boiled nut oil then laid on 
perfectly dried, is a good method to have a japan not liable to 
crack. But a better plan is to use this oil in the varnish given, 
the first coat, after the ground is laid on, and which should con¬ 
tain considerable of pure turpentine. In every case where oil is 
used for any purpose for varnish, it is all the better if turpen¬ 
tine is mixed with it. Turpentine enables oils to mix with either 
alcohol or water. Alkalies have this property also. 

Klack Japan.— 1. Asphaltum 3 ounces, boiled oil 4 quarts, 
burnt umber 8 ounces. Mix by heat and when cooling thin with 
turpentine. 2. Amber 12 ounces, asphaltum 2 ounces, fuse by 
heat, add boiled oil % pint, resin 2 ounces: when cooling add 16 
ounces oil of turpentine. Both are used to varnish metals. 

Japan lilaclt for Leather.— 1. Burnt umber 4 ounces, 
true asphaltum 2 ounces, boiled oil 2 quarts. Dissolve the as¬ 
phaltum by heat in a little of the oil, add the burnt umber ground 
in oil and the remainder of the oil; mix, cool, and thin with tur¬ 
pentine. 2. (Flexible.) Shellac 1 part, wood naphtha 4 parts; 
dissolve and color with lampblack. Inflexible. 


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ALL TRADES 


269 


Transparent Japan.— Oil of turpentine 4 ounces, oil of lav¬ 
ender 3 ounces, camphor *4 dram, copal 1 ounce; dissolve. Used 
to japan tin, but quick copal varnish is mostly used instead. 

Japanner’s Copal Varnish.— Pale African copal 7 pounds, 
fuse, add clarified linseed oil *4 gallon, boil for 5'minutes, re¬ 
move it into the open air, add boiling oil of turpentine 3 gallons, 
mix well, strain it into the cistern, and cover it up immediately. 
Used to varnish furniture, aud by japanners, coach-makers, etc. 
Dries in 15 minutes and may be polished as sood as hard. 

Tortoise Shell Japan.— This varnish is prepared by taking 
of good linseed oil 1 gallon and of umber J4 pound, and boiling 
them together until the oil becomes very brown and thick, when 
they are strained through a cloth and boiled again until the 
composition is about the consistence of pitch, when it is fit for 
use. Having prepared this varnish clean well the copper or iron 
plate or vessel that is to be varnished (japanned), and then lay 
vermilion mixed with shellac varnish or drying oil. diluted with 
turpentine, very thinly on the places intended to imitate the 
clean parts of the tortoise shell. When the vermilion is dry 
brush over the whole with the above umber varnish diluted to a 
due consistence with turpentine, and when it is set and firm it 
must be put into a stove and undergo a strong heat for a long 
time, even 2 weeks will not hurt it. This is the ground for those 
beautiful snuff boxes and tea boards which are so 
much admired, and those grounds can be decorated with all 
kinds of paintings that fancy may suggest, and the work is all 
the better to be finished in an annealing oven. 

Painting' Japan Work .- 1 The colors to be painted are tem¬ 
pered generally in oil, which should have at least of its weight 
of gum sandarac or gum mastic dissolved in it, and it should be 
well diluted with turpentine that the colors may be laid on thin 
and evenly. In some instances it does well to put on water col¬ 
ors or grounds of gold, which a skillful hand can do and manage 
so as to make the work appear’as if it were embossed. These 
water colors are best prepared by means of isinglass size, mixed 
with honey or sugar candy. These colors when laid on must re¬ 
ceive a number of upper coats of the varnish we have described 
before. 

Japanning Old Tea-Trays.— First clean them thoroughly 
with soap and water and a little rotten stone, then dry them by 
wiping and exposure at the fire. Now get some eood copal var¬ 
nish, mix it with some bronze powder, and apply with a brush to 
the denuded parts. After which set the tea-tray in an oven at a 
heat of 212 0 or 300 o until the varnish is dry. Two coats will 
make it equal to new. 

Japan Finishing .— 1 The finishing part of japanning lies in 
laying on and poiishing the outer coats of varnish, which is 
necessary in all painted or simply ground colored japan-work. 
When brightness and clearness are wanted, the white kind of 
varnish is necessary, for seed lac varnish, which is the hardest 



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DEPARTMENT V 





and most tenacious, imparts a yellow tinge. A mixed varnish, 
we believe, is the best for this purpose, that is, for combining 
hardness and purity. Take then 3 ounces of seed lac, picked 
very carefully from all sticks and dirt, and washing it well with 
cold water, stirring it up, pouring it off, and continuing the pro¬ 
cess until the water runs off perfectly pure. Dry it and then re¬ 
duce it to powder, and put it with a pint of pure alcohol into a 
bottle, of which it must occupy only two-thirds of its space. 
This mixture must be shaken well together and the bottle kept 
at a gentle heat (being corked) until the lac be dissolved. When 
this is the case, the clear must be poured off, and the remainder 
strained through a cloth, and all the clear, strained and poured 
must be kept in a well stopped bottle. The manner of using 
this seed lac varnish is tbe same as that before described, and a 
fine polishing varnish is made by mixing this with the pure 
white varnish. The pieces of work to be varnished for finishing 
should be placed near a stove, or in a warm, dry room, and one 
coat should be perfectly dry before the other is applied. The 
varnish is applied by proper brushes, beginning at the middle, 
passing the stroke to one end and with the other stroke from 
the middle to the other end. Great skill is displayed in laying 
on these coats of varnish. If possible the skill of hand should 
never cross, or twice pass over in giving one coat. When one 
coat is dry another must be laid over it, and so on successively 
for a number of coats, so that the coating should be sufficiently 
thick to stand fully all the polishing, so as not to bare the sur¬ 
face of the colored work. When a sufficient number of coats are 
thus laid on. the work is fit to be polished, which, in common 
cases, is commenced with a rag dipped in finely powdered rot¬ 
ten stone, and towards the end of the rubbing, a little oil should 
be used along w r ith the powder, and when the work appears fine 
and glossy a little oil should be used alone to clean off the pow¬ 
der and give the work a still brighter hue. In very fine work 
French whiting should be used, which should be w r ashed in 
v ater to remove any sand that might be in it. Pumice stone 
ground to a very fine powder is used for the first part of polish- 
mg, and the finishing done with whiting. It is always best to 
diy the varnish of all japan work by heat. For wood work, heat 
must be sparingly used, but for metals the varnish should be 
dried in an oven, also for papier mache and leather. The metal 
will stand the greatest heat, and care must be taken not to 
darken by too high a temperature. When gold size is used in 
g.lding for japan work, w^here it is desired not to have the gold 
vJm 16 ’ ,^PP ea V burnished, the gold size should be used with a 
little of the spirits of turpentine and a little oil; but when a 
considerable degree of luster is wanted without burnishing and 
the preparation necessary for it, a little of the size along wuth 
oil alone should be used. 

Varnishes.-These varnishes maybe readily colored 

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the resins. Lac varnish may be bleached by Mr. Lemming’s pro¬ 
cess; Dissolve 5 ounces of shellac in a quart of spirit of wine; 
boil for a few minutes with 10 ounces well-burnt and recently- 
heated animal charcoal, when a small quantity of the solution 
should be drawn off and filtered, if not colorless a little more 
charcoal should be added. When all tinge is removed press the 
liquor through silk, as linen absorbs more varnish, and after- 
vard filter it through fine blotting-paper. Dr. Hare proceeds as 
follows: Dissolve in an iron kettle about 1 part of pearlash in 
about 8 parts of water, add 1 part of shell or seed lac and heat 
the whole to ebulition. When the lac has dissolved cool the so¬ 
lution and impregnate it wuth chlorine gas till the lac is all pre¬ 
cipitated. lhe precipitate is white, but the color deepens by 
washing and consolidation. Dissolved in alcohol, lac bleached 
by this process yields a varnish which is as free from color as 
any copal varnish. One w T ord in conclusion with reference to all 
spirit varnishes. A damp atmosphere is sufficient to occasion a 
milky deposit of resin, owing to the diluted spirit depositing a 
portion; in such case the varnish is said to be chilled. 

Essence Yarnis,.es.- They do not differ essentially in their 
manufacture from spirit varnishes. The polish produced by 
them is more durable, although they take a longer time to dry. 

Oil Varnishes.— r lhe most durable and lustrous of varnishes 
are composed of a mixture of resin, oil and spirits of turpentine. 
The oils most frequently employed are linseed and walnut; the 
resins chiefly popal and amber. The drying power of the oil 
having been increased by litharge, red lead, or by sulphate of 
lead, and a judicious selection of copal having been made, it is 
necessary, according to Booth, to bear in mind the following 
precautions before proceeding to the manufacture of varnish: 
1. That oil varnish is not a solution, but an intimate mixture of 
resin in boiled oil and spirits of turpentine. 2. That the resin 
must be completely fused previous to the addition of the boiled 
or prepared oil. 3. That the oil must be heated from 250 0 to 
3000 . 4. That the spirits of turpentine must be added gradu¬ 
ally, and in a thin stream, while the mixture of oil and resin is 
stiil hot. 5. That the varnish be made in dry w r eather, otherwise 
moisture is absorbed, and its transparency and drying quality 
impaired. The heating vessel must be of copper, with a riveted 
and not a soldered bottom. To promote the admixture of the 
copal with the hot oil, the copal—carefully selected, and of near¬ 
ly uniform fusibility—is separately heated with continuous stir¬ 
ring over a charcoal fire. Good management is required to pre¬ 
vent the copal from burning or becoming even high colored, 
When completely fused, the heated oil should be gradually 
poured in with constant stirring. The exact amount of oil re¬ 
quired must be determined by experiment. If a drop upon a 
plate, on cooling, assumes such a consistencv as to be penetrated 
by the nail without cracking, the mixture is complete: but if it 
cracks, more oil must be added. The spirits of turpentine pre¬ 
viously heated is added in a thin, stream to the former mixture, 





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excellent varnishes. 


Table Varnish.— Damma resin, 1 pound; spirits 9 f turpen¬ 
tine, 2 pounds; camphor, 200 grains. Digest the mixture for 
24 nours. The decanted portion is fit for immediate use. 


Common Table Varnish. —Oil of turpentine, 1 pound; 
beeswax, 2 ounces; colophony, 1 dram. 

Copal Varnish for Inside Work.—1. Pounded and oxi¬ 
dized copal, 24 parts: spirit of turpentine, 40 parts; camphor, 
1 part. 2. (Flexible Copal Varnish). Copal in powder, 16 parts; 
camphor, 2 parts; oil of lavender, 90 parts. Dissolve the cam¬ 
phor ill’the oil, heat the latter, and stir in the copal in success¬ 
ive portions until complete solution takes place. Thin with 
sufficient turpentine to make it of proper consistence. 

Best Body Copal Varnish for Coach-makers, etc-— 
This is intended for the body parts of coaches and other similar 
vehicles, intended for polishing. Fuse 8 pounds of fine African 
gum copal, and 2 gallons of clarified oil, boil it very slowly for 
4 or 5 hours, until quite stringy, mix with 3)4 gallons of turpen¬ 
tine; strain off and pour it into a cistern. If this is too slow in 
drying, coach-makers, painters and varnish-makers have intro¬ 
duced to 2 pots of the preceding varnish, one made as follows: 
8 pounds of fine pale gum-anime, 2 gallons of clarified oil and 
3)4 gallons of turpentine. To be boiled 4 hours. 

Copal Polish.— Digest or shake finely powdered gum copal 
4 parts, and gum camphor 1 part, with ether to form a semi¬ 
fluid mass, and then digest with a sufficient quantity of alcohol. 

White Spirit Varnish.— Sandarach. 250 parts: mastic, in 
tears, 64; elemi resin, 32; turpentine, 64: alcohol of 85 per 
cent., 1,000 parts, by measure. The turpentine is to be added 
after the resins are dissolved. This is a brilliant varnish, but 
not so hard as to bear polishing. 

White Hard Spirit Varnishes. — 1. Gum sandarach 5 
pounds, camphor 1 ounce, rectified spirit (65 over proof) 2 gal¬ 
lons, washed and dried coarsely-pounded glass 2 pounds; pro¬ 
ceed as in making mastic varnish; when strained add 1 quart of 
very pale turpentine varnish. Very fine. 2. Picked mastic and 
coarsely-ground glass, of each, 4 ounces, sandarach and pale 
clear Venice turpentine, of each 3 ounces, alcohol 2 pounds; as 
last. 3. Gum sandarach, 1 pound, clear Strasburgh turpen¬ 
tine 6 ounces, rectified spirit (65 over proof) 3 pints; dissolve. 
4. Mastic in tears 2 ounces, sandarach 8 ounces, gum elemi 1 
ounce, strasburgh or scio turpentine (genuine) 4 ounces, recti¬ 
fied spirit (65 over proof) 1 quart. Used on metals, etc. Pol¬ 
ishes well.* 





White Varnish.—1. Tender copal 7)4 ounces, camphor 1 
ounce, alcohol of 95 per cent, 1 quart; dissolve, then add mas¬ 
tic 2 ounces, Venice turpentine 1 ounce; dissolve and strain. 
Very white, drying, and capable of being polished when hard. 








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ADD trades 

Used for toys. 2. Sandarach 8 ounces, mastic 2 ounces. Canada 
balsam 4 ounces, alcohol 1 quart. Used on paper, wood, or 
linen. 

Soft Brilliant Varnish.— Sandarach 6 ounces, elemi (gen¬ 
uine) 4 ounces, anime 1 ounce, camphor Vt ounce, rectified spirit 
1 quart; as before. The above spirit varnishes are chiefly ap¬ 
plied to objects of the toilette, as work-boxes, card-cases, etc., 
but are also suitable to other articles, whether of paper, wood, 
linen, or metal, that require a brilliant and quick-drying var¬ 
nish. They mostly dry almost as soon as applied, and are usu¬ 
ally hard enough to polish in 24 hours. Spirit varnishes are 
less durable and more liable to crack than oil varnishes. 

Brown Hard Spirit Varnishes.—1. Sandarach 4 ounces 
pale seed lac 2 ounces, elemi (true) 1 ounce, alcohol 1 quart; 
digest with agitation till dissolved, then add Venice turpentine 2 
ounces. 2. Gum sandarach 3 pounds, shellac 2 pounds, recti¬ 
fied spirits (65 over proof) 2 gallons; dissolve, add turpentine 
varnish 1 quart; agitate well and strain. Very fine. 3. Seed 
lac and yellow resin, of each 1)4 pounds, rectified spirits 2 gal¬ 
lons. 

To Prepare a Varnish for Coating Metals. —Digest 1 
part of bruised copal in 2 parts of absolute alcohol; but as this 
varnish dries too quickly it is preferable to take 1 part of copai, 

1 part of oil of rosemary, and 2 or 3 parts of absolute alcohol. 
This gives a clear varnish as limpid as water. It should be ap¬ 
plied hot. and when dry it will be found hard and durable. 

To Varnish Articles of Iron and Steel.— Dissolve 10 
parts of clear grains of mastic, 5 parts of camphor, 15 parts of 
sandarach, and 5 of elemi. in a sufficient quantity of alcohol, and 
apply this varnish without heat. The articles will not only be 
preserved from rust, but the varnish will retain its transpar¬ 
ency and the metallic brillancy of the article will not be 
obscured. 

Varnish for Iron Work.— Dissolve in about 2 pounds of 
tar oil, Vi pound asphaltum, and a like quantity of pounded resin, 
mix hot in an iron kettle, care being taken to prevent any con¬ 
tact with the flame. When cold the varnish is ready for use. 
This varnish is for outdoor wood and iron work, not for japan¬ 
ning leather or cloth. « 

Black Varnish for Iron Work.— Asphaltum 48 pounds, 

use, add boiled oil 10 gallons, red lead and litharge of each 7 
pounds, dried and powdered white copperas 3 pounds: boil for 

2 hours, then add dark gum amber (fused) 8 pounds, hot linseed 
oil 2 gallons, boil for 2 hours longer, or till a little of the mass, 
when cooled, may be rolled into pills, then withdraw the heat, 
and afterwards thin down with oil of turpentine 30 gallons. 
Used for the ironwork of carriages, and other nice purposes. 

‘‘Bronze Varnish for Statuary.— Cut best hard soap 50 
parts into shavings, dissolve in boiling water 2 parts, to which 


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274 


DEPARTMENT V 



add the solution of blue vitriol 15 parts, in pure water 60 parts. 
Wash the copper soap with water, dry it at a very slow heat, 
and dissolve it in spirits of turpentine. 

Amber Varnishes.—1. Amber 1 pound, pale boiled oil 10 
ounces, turpentine 1 pint. Render the amber, placed in an iron 
pot, semi-liquid by heat; then add the oil, mix, remove it from 
the fire, and when cooled a little stir in the turpentine. 2. To 
the amber, melted as above, add 2 ounces of shellac, and proceed 
as before. This varnish is rather dark, but remarkably tough. 
The first form is the best. It is used for the same purposes as 
copal varnish, and forms an excellent article for covering wood, 
or any other substance not of a white or very pale color. It dries 
well, and is very hard and durable. 

Amber Varnish, Black.— Amber 1 pound, boiled oil % 
pint, powdered asphaltum 6 ounces, oil of turpentine 1 pint. 
Melt the amber as before described, then add the asphaltum. 
previously mixed wifh the cold oil, and afterwards heated very 
hot, mix well, remove the vessel from the fire, and when cooled 
a little add the turpentine, also made warm. Each of the above 
varnishes should be reduced to a proper consistence with more 
turpentine if required. The last form produces the beautiful 
black varnish used by the coachmakers. Some of the manufac¬ 
turers omit the whole or part of the asphaltum, and use the same 
quantity of clear black resin instead, in which case the color is 
brought up by lampblack reduced to an inpalpable powder, or 
previously ground very fine with a little boiled oil. The varnish 
made in this way, lacks, however, that richness, brilliancy and 
depth of blackness imparted by asphaltum. 

Amber Varnishes.—1. (Pale.) Amber pale and transpar¬ 
ent 6 pounds, fuse, add hot clarified linseed oil 2 gallons; boil 
till it strings strongly, cool a little and add oil of turpentine 4 
gallons. Pale as copal varnish, soon becomes very hard, and is 
the most durable of oil varnishes; but requires time before it is 
fit for polishing. When wanted to dry and harden quicker, 
‘drying oil may be substituted for linseed, or “driers” may be 
added during the boiling. 2. Amber 1 pound; melt, add scio 
turpentine y s pound, transparent white resin 2 ounces, hot lin¬ 
seed oil 1 pint, and afterwards oil of turpentine as much as suffi¬ 
cient; as above. Very tough. 3. (Hard.) Melted amber 4 
ounces hot boiled oil 1 quart; as before. 4. (Pale.) Very pale 
and transparent amber 4 ounces, clarified linseed oil and oil of 
turpentine, of each 1 pint; as before. Amber varnish is suited 
for all purposes, where a very hard and durable varnish is re¬ 
quired. The paler kind is superior to copal varnish, and is often 
mixed with the latter to increase its hardness and durability. 

Black. Varnish. —Heat to boiling linseed oil varnish 10 
parts, with burnt umber 2 parts, and powdered asphaltum 1 
part, and when cooled dilute with spirits of turpentine to the re¬ 
quired consistence. 

' ®rnish for Certain Parts of Carriages.— Sandarach 


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ALL TRADES 275 

190 parts, pale shellac 95, resin 125, turpentine 190, alcohol aJ 
85 per cent, 1,000 parts, by measure. 

Coach Varnish.— Mix shellac 16 parts, white turpentine 3 
parts, lampblack sufficient quantity, and digest with alcohol 90 
parts, oil of lavender 4 parts. 

Mahogany Varnish.— Sorted ram anime 8 pounds, clarified 
oil 3 gallons, litharge and powdered dried sugar of lead of each 
14 pound; boil till it strings well, then cool a little, thin with oil 
of turpentine 5 % gallons, and strain. 

Varnish for Cabinet Makers.— Pale shellac 750 parts, 
mastic 64, alcohol (of 90 per cent) 1,000 parts by measure. The 
solution is made in the cold with the aid of frequent stirring, It 
is always muddy, and is employed without being filtered. With 
the same resins and proof spirits a varnish is made for the book¬ 
binders to do over their morocco leather. 

Cement Varnish for Water-Tight Luting.— White tur¬ 
pentine 14 parts, shellac 18 parts, resin 6 parts; digest with 
alcohol 80 parts. 

The Varnish of Watin for Gilded Articles.— Gum lac 

ingrain 125 parts, gamboge 125 parts, dragon’s blood 125, an- 
notto 125, saffron 32. Each resin must be dissolved in 1.000 
parts by measure, of alcohol of 90 per cent; two separate tinc^ 
tures must be made with the dragon’s blood and annotto in 
1.000 parts of such alcohol; and a proper proportion of each 
should be added to the varnish, according to the shade of golden 
color wanted. 

Cheap Oak Varnish.— Clear pale resin 3*4 pounds, oil of 
turpentine 1 gallon; dissolve. It may be colored darker by add¬ 
ing a little fine lampblack. 

Varnish for Woodwork. — Powdered gum sandarach 8 
parts, gum mastic 2 parts, seed lac 8 parts, and digest in a warm 
piace for some days with alcohol 24 parts, and finally, dilute 
with sufficient alcohol to the required consistence. 

Dark Varnish for Light Woodwork. — Pound up and 
digest shellac 16 parts, gum sandarach 32 parts, gum mastic 
(juniper) 8 parts, gum elemi 8 parts, dragon's blood 4 parts, an¬ 
notto 1 part, with white turpentine 16 parts, and alcohol 256. 
Dilute with alcohol if required. 

Varnish for Instruments.— Digest seed lac 1 part, with 
alcohol 7 parts, and filter. 

Varnish for Wood Toys.— Tender copal. 75 parts; mas¬ 
tic, 12.5; Venice turpentine, 6.5; alcohol, of 95 per cent., 100 
parts by measure; water ounces, for example, if the other parts 
be taken in ounces. The alcohol must be first made to act upon 
the copal, with the aid of a little oil of lavender or camphor, if 
thought fit; and the solution being passed through a linen cloth, 
the mastic must be introduced. After it is dissolved, the Venice 
turpentine, previously a water-bath, should be added; 












































































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the lower the temperature at which these operations are carried 
on, the more beautiful will the varnish be. This varnish ought 
to be very white, very drying, and capable of being smoothed 
with pumice stone and polished. 

Varnishes for Furniture.— The simplest, and perhaps the 
best, is the solution of shellac only, but many add gums sanda- 
rach, mastic, copal, arabic, benjamin, etc., from the idea that 
they contribute to the effect. Gum arabic is certainly never re¬ 
quired if the solvent be pure, because it is insoluble in either 
rectified spirit or rectified wood naphtha, the menstrua em¬ 
ployed in dissolving the gums. As spirit is seldom used on 
account of its expense, most of the following are mentioned as 
solutions in naphtha, but spirit can be substituted when thought 
proper. 1. Shellac 1 y 2 pounds, naphtha 1 gallon; dissolve, and 
it is ready without filtering. 2. Shellac 12 ounces, copal 3 
ounces (or an equivalent of varnish); dissolve in 1 gallon of 
naphtha. 3. Shellac l l A pounds, seed lac and sandarach each 
4 ounces, mastic 2 ounces, rectified spirit 1 gallon; dissolve. 
4. Shellac 2 pounds, benzoin 4 ounces, spirit 1 gallon. 5. Shel¬ 
lac 10 ounces, seed lac, sandarach, and copal varnish of each, 6 
ounces, benzoin 3 ounces, naphtha 1 gallon. To darken polish, 
benzoin and dragon’s blood are used, turmeric and other color¬ 
ing matters are also added; and to make it lighter it is necessary 
to use bleached lac, though some endeavor to give this effect by 
adding oxalic acid to the ingredients, it, like gum arabic, is in¬ 
soluble in good spirit or naphtha. For all ordinary purposes 
the first form is best and least troublesome, while its appearance 
is equal to any other. 

Furniture Polishes. —New wood is often French polished. 
Or the following may be tried: Melt 3 or 4 pieces of sandarach, 
each the size of a walnut, add 1 pint of boiled oil, and boil to¬ 
gether for 1 hour. While cooling add 1 dram of Venice turpen¬ 
tine, and if too thick a little oil of turpentine also. Apply this 
all oyer the furniture, and after some hours rub it off: rub the 
furniture daily, without applying fresh varnish, except about 
once in two months. Water does not injure this polish, and any 
stain or scratch may be again covered, which cannot be done 
With French polish. 

Furniture Cream. —Beeswax 1 pound, soap 4 ounces, pearl- 
ash 2 ounces, soft water 1 gallon; boil together until mixed. 

Furniture Oils.— 1. Acetic acid 2 dram, oil of lavender V a 
dram, rectified spirits 1 dram, linseed oil 4 ounces. 2. Linseed 
oil 1 pint, alkanet root 2 ounces; heat, strain and add lac var¬ 
nish 1 ounce. 3. Linseed oil 1 pint, rectified spirits 2 ounces, 
butter ol antimony 4 ounces. 

Furniture Pastes.— 1. Beeswax, spirits of turpentine, and 
linseed oil, equal parts; melt and cool. 2. Beeswax 4 ounces 
turpentine 10 ounces, alkanet root to color: melt and strain. 3l 
Beeswax 1 pound, linseed oil 5 ounces, alkanet root y a ounce- 
melt, add 5 ounces of turpentine, strain and cool. 4. Beeswax 


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4 ounces, resin 1 ounce, oil of turpentine 2 ounces, Venetian red 
to color. 

Etching; Varnishes.— 1. White wax 2 ounces, black and 
burgundy pitch of each y 2 ounce; melt together, add by degrees 
powdered asphaltum 2 ounces, and boil till a drop taken out on 
a plate will break when cold by being bent double two or three 
times between the fingers; it must then be poured into warm 
water and made into small balls for use. 2. (Hard Varnish.) 
Linseed oil and mastic of each 4 ounces; melt together. 3. (Soft 
Varnish.) Soft linseed oil 4 ounces, gum benzoin and white wax 
of each y 2 ounce; boil to two-thirds. 

^ or En S‘ ra ving , s. Maps, Etc.— Digest gum sanda¬ 
rach 20 parts, gum mastic 8 parts, camphor 1 part, with alcohol 
48 parts. The map or engraving must previously receive one or 
two coats of gelatine. 

Varnish to Fix Engraving's or Lithographs on Wood. 

—For fixing engravings or lithographs upon wood, a varnish 
called mordant is used in France, which differs from others 
chiefly in containing more Venice turpentine to make it sticky; 
it consists of sandarach 250 parts, mastic in tears 64, resin 125, 
Venice turpentine 250, alcohol 1,000 parts by measure. 

Varnishes for Oil Paintings and Lithographs.—1. 

Dextrine 2 parts, alcohol 1, water 6 parts. 2. Varnish for draw¬ 
ings and lithographs: Dextrine 2 parts, alcohol y 2 part, water 
2 parts. These should be prepared previously with two or three 
coats of thin starch or rice boiled and strained through a cloth. 

Varnish for Oil Paintings.— Digest at a slow heat gum 
sandarach 2 parts, gum mastic 4 parts, balsam copaiva 2 parts, 
white turpentine 3 parts, with spirits of turpentine 4 parts, 
alcohol (95 per cent) 50-56 parts. 

Beautiful Varnish for Paintings and Pictures,— 

Honey 1 pint, the whites of 24 fresh eggs, 1 ounce of good clean 
isinglass, 20 grains of hydrate of potassium. y 2 ounce of chloride 
of sodium; mix together over a gentle heat of 80 or 90 degrees 
Fahr.; be careful not to let the mixture remain long enough to 
coagulate the albumen of the eggs; stir the mixture thoroughly 
and then bottle. It is to be applied as follows: One tablespoon¬ 
ful of the varnish added to y 2 tablespoonful of good oil of turpen¬ 
tine; then spread on the picture as soon as mixed. 

Milk of Wax. —Milk of wax is a valuable varnish, which 
may be prepared as follows: Melt in a porcelain capsule a cer¬ 
tain quantity of white wax, and add to it while in fusion, an 
equal quantity of spirits of wine, of specific gravity 0.880; stir 
the mixture and pour it upon a large porphyry slab. The granu¬ 
lar mass is to be converted into a paste by the mnller, with the 
addition, from time to time, of a little alcohol; and as soon as it 
appears to be smooth and homogeneous, water is to be intro¬ 
duced in small quantities successively, to the amount of four 
times the weight of the wax. This emulsion is to be then passed 



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through canvas in order to separate such particles as may be 
imperfectly incorporated. The milk of wax, thus prepared, may 
be spread with a smooth brush upon the surface of a painting, 
allowed to dry, and then fused by passing a hot iron (salamand¬ 
er) over its surface. When cold, it is to be rubbed with a linen 
cloth to bring out the lustre. It is to the unchangeable quality 
of an encaustic of this nature, that the ancient paintings upon 
the walls of Herculaneum and Pompeii owe their freshness at the 
present day. 

Crystal Varnishes.— 1. Genuine pale Canada balsam and 
rectified oil of turpentine, equal parts; mix, place the bottle in 
warm water, agitate well, set it aside, in a moderately warm 
place, and in a week pour off the clear. Used for maps, prints, 
drawings, and other articles of paper, and also to prepare trac¬ 
ing paper, and to transfer engravings. 2. Mastic 3 ounces, al¬ 
cohol 1 pint; dissolve. Used to fix pencil drawings. 

Italian Varnishes. — 1. Boil scio turpentine till brittle, 
powder, and dissolve in oil of turpentine. 2. Canada balsam 
and clear white resin, of each 6 ounces, oil of turpentine, 1 
quart; dissolve. Used for prints, etc. 

Water Varnish for Oil Painting's. —Boil bitter-apple, 

freed from the seeds and cut 5 parts, with rain water 50 parts, 
down to one-half. Strain and dissolve in the liquor gum arabic 
8 parts, and rock-candy 4 parts, and lastly, add 1 part of alco¬ 
hol. Let it stand for some days, and filter. 

Varnish for Paper-Hangings.— Sandarach, 4 parts, mas¬ 
tic, seed lac, white turpentine, of each 2 parts, gum elemi 1 
part, alcohol 28 parts. Digest with frequent shaking, and filter. 
Before applying this varnish, the paper must be twice painted 
over with a solution of white gelatine, and dried. 

Book binders 9 Varnish.— Shellac 8 parts, gum benzoin 3 
parts, gum mastic 2 parts, bruise, and digest in alcohol 48 parts, 
oil of lavender part. Or, digest shellac 4 parts, gum mastic 
2 parts, gum dammar and white turpentine of each 1 part with 
alcohol (95 per cent) 28 parts. 

To Varnish Cardwork. —Before varnishing cardwork it 
must receive 2 or 3 coats of size, to prevent the absorption of 
the varnish, and any injury to the design. The size may be 
made by dissolving a little isinglass in hot water, or by boiling 
some parchment cuttings until dissolved. In either case the 
solution must be strained through a piece of dean muslin and 
for very nice purposes, should be clarified with a little white of 
egg A small clean brush, called by painters a sash tool, is the 
i>est for applying the size, as well as the varnish. A light deli- 
?i^ e . t 1 ouch must be adopted, especially for the first coat, lest 
the ink or colors be started, or smothered. 

wS e ’^ Winter*, etc.-Best pale glue and 

VNhitecuid soap, of each 4 ounces, hot water 3 pints; dissolve, 


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ALL TRADES 


Used to size prints and pic- 


then add powdered alum 2 ounces, 
tures before coloring them. 

Varnish for Brick Walls.— A varnish made with 1 pound 
of sulphur boiled for half an hour in an iron vessel is a perfect 
protection from damp to brick walls. It should be applied with 
a brush, while warm. 

Mastic Varnishes.— 1. (Fine). Very pale and picked gum 
mastic 5 pounds, glass pounded as small as barley, and well 
washed and dried. 2>4 pounds, rectified turpentine 2 gallons; 
put them into a clean 4-gallon stone or tin bottle, bung down 
securely, and keep rolling it backwards and forwards pretty 
smartly on a counter or any other solid place for at least 4 
hours; when, if the gum is all dissolved, the varnish may be 
decanted, strained through muslin into another bottle, and al¬ 
lowed to settle. It should be kept for 6 or 9 months before use. 
as it thereby gets both tougher and clearer. 2. (Second Qual¬ 
ity). Mastic 8 pounds, turpentine 4 gallons; dissolve by a 
gentle heat, and add pale turpentine varnish y 2 gallon. 3. Gum 
mastic 6 ounces, oil of turpentine 1 quart; dissolve. Mastic 
varnish is used for pictures, etc.; when good, it is tough, hard, 
brilliant and colorless. Should it get “chilled,” 1 pound of 
well-washed silicious sand should be made moderatelv hot, and 
added to each gallon, which must then be well agitated for 5 
minutes, and afterwards allowed to settle. 

India Rubber Varnishes.— 1. Cut up 1 pound of India 
rubber into small pieces and diffuse in y 2 pound sulphuric 
otfcrr, which is done by digesting in a glass flask on a sand bath. 
Then add 1 pound pale linseed oil varnish, previously heated. 
;t>'d after settling, 1 pound of oil of turpentine, also heated 
beforehand. Filter, while yet warm, into bottles. Dries slowly. 
2. Two ounces India rubber finely divided and digested in the 
same way, with a M pound camphene, and y 2 ounce naphtha or 
benzole. When dissolved add 1 ounce of copal varnish, which 
renders it more durable. Principally for gilding. 3. In a wide- 
mouthed glass bottle, digest 2 ounces of India rubber in fine 
shavings, with 1 pound of oil of turpentine, during 2 days, 
without shaking, then stir up with a wooden spatula. Add 
another pound of oil of turpentine, and digest, with frequent 
agitation, until all is dissolved. Then mix iy 2 pounds of this 
solution with 2 pounds of very white copal-oil varnish, and 1 y 2 
pounds of well boiled linseed oil, shake and digest in a sand 
bath, until they have united into a good varnish. For morocco 
leather. 4 . Four ounces India rubber in fine shavings are dis¬ 
solved in a covered jar by means of a sand bath, in 2 pounds of 
crude benzole, and then mixed with 4 pounds of hot linseed oil 
varnish, and y 2 pound oil of turpentine. Dries very well. 

Flexible Varnish.— Melt 1 pound of resin, and add gradu¬ 
ally y 2 pound India rubber in very fine shavings, and stir until 
cold. Then heat again, slowly, add 1 pound of linseed oil var¬ 
nish, heated, and filter. 



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DEPARTMENT V 


, Another Method.—1. Dissolve 1 pound of gum dammar, 
and V* pound India rubber, in very small pieces, in 1 pound of 
oil of turpentine, by means of a water bath. Add 1 pound of 
hot oil varnish and filter. 2. India rubber in small pieces, 
washed and dried, are fused for 3 hours in a close vessel, on a 
gradually heated sand bath. On removing from the sand bath, 
open the vessel and stir for 10 minutes, then close again, and 
repeat the fusion on the following day, until small globule- 
appear on the surface. Strain through a wire sieve. 

Varnish for ’Waterproof Goods. — Let M pound India 
rubber, in small pieces, soften in y 2 pound oil of turpentine, 
then add 2 pounds of boiled oil, and let the whole boil for 2 
hours over a slow coal fire. When dissolved, add again 6 
pounds of boiled linseed oil and 1 pound of litharge, and boil 
until an even liquid is obtained. It is applied warm. 

Gutta Perclia Varnish.— Clean % pound gutta percha in 
warm water from adher*ug impurities, dry well, dissolve in 1 
pound of rectified resin oil, and add 2 pounds of linseed oil var¬ 
nish, boiling hot. Very suitable to prevent metals from oxi¬ 
dation. 

Black Varnish for Harness. —Digest shellac* 12 parts. 

white turpentine 5 parts, gum sandarach 2 parts, lampblack 1 
part, with spirits of turpentine 4 parts, alcohol 96 parts. 

Boiled Oil or Linseed Oil Varnish.— Boil linseed oil 60 
parts, with litharge 2 parts, and white vitriol 1 part, each finely 
powdered, until all water is evaporated. Then set by. Or, rub 
up borate of manganese 4 parts, with some of the oil, then add 
linseed oil 3,000 parts, and heat to boiling. 

Dammar Varnish.— Gum dammar 10 parts, gum sanda¬ 
rach 5 parts, gum mastic 1 part, digest at a low heat, occasion- 
allv shaking, with spirits of turpentine 20 parts. Finally add 
more spirits of turpentine to give the consistence of syrup. 

Common Varnish.— Digest shellac 1 part, with alcohol 7 
or 8 parts. 

Waterproof Varnishes. — Take 1 pound of flowers of 
sulphur and 1 gallon of linseed oil, and boil them together until 
they are thoroughly combined. This forms a good varnish for 
waterproof textile fabrics. Another is made with 4 pounds 
oxide of lead, 2 pounds of lampblack, 5 ounces of sulphur, and 
10 pounds of India rubber dissolved in turpentine. These sub- 
, stances, in such proportions, are boiled together until they are 
thoroughly combined. Coloring matters may be mixed with 
them. Twilled cotton may be rendered waterproof by the appli¬ 
cation of the oil sulphur varnish. It should be applied at 2 or 3 
different times, and dried after each operation. 

Varnishes for Balloons, Gas Hags, etc.—1. India rub¬ 
ber in shavings 1 ounce, mineral naphtha 2 pounds; digest at 
a gentle heat in a close vessel till dissolved, and strain. 2. 
Digest 1 pound of India rubber, cut small, in 6 pounds oil of 





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ALL TRADES 


281 


turpentine for 7 days, in a warm place. Put the mixture in a 
warm bath, heat until thoroughly mixed, add 1 gallon of warm 
boiled drying oil. mix, and straiu when cold. 3. Linseed oil 1 
gallon, dried white copperas and sugar of lead, each 3 ounces, 
litharge 8 ounces, boil with constant agitation till it strings 
well, then cool slowly and decant the clear. If too thick, thin it 
with quicker drying linseed oil. 

Gold Varnish.— Digest shellac 16 parts, gum sandarach, 
mastic, of each 3 parts, crocus 1 part, gum gamboge 2 parts, all 
bruised, with alcohol 144 parts. Or. digest seed lac, sandarach, 
mastic, of each 8 parts, gamboge 2 parts, dragon’s blood 1 part, 
white turpentine 6 parts, turmeric 4 parts, bruised, with alco 
hoi 120 parts. 

Wainscot Varnish for House Painting' and Japan¬ 
ning.— Anime 8 pounds, clarified linseed oil 3 gallons, litharge 
}4 pound, acetate of lead l A pound, sulphate of copper % pound. 
All these materials must be carefully but thoroughly boiled to¬ 
gether until the mixture becomes quite stringy, and then 5*4 
gallons of heated turpentine stirred in. It can be easily deep¬ 
ened in color by the addition of a little gold-size. 


HOW TO MAKE COLORED VARNISHES. 

Transparent Green.— To make the transparent green var¬ 
nish, heat a quantity of copal varnish, and put into it, small 
quantities at a time, powdered verdigris (crystallized), until the 
liquid possesses the properties desired. 

Blue Color.— Gould indigo be incorporated with copal var¬ 
nish. and communicate its color to it, persons would not be ob¬ 
liged to prepare this color from a substance which alters its 
limpidity. Prussian blue serves as the basis of this color. The 
best Prussian blue of the shops communicates to varnish a very 
transparent blue color; but it has not that richness of reflection 
and velvety appearance so agreeable to the eye when the exten¬ 
sion of which it is capable without being weakened, has been 
given to it. When extended over a metallic plate, there are 
sometimes grains observed in it, which may be owing to its in¬ 
complete division, or to the separation of some earthy matter, 
which even the best Prussian blue of the shops usually contains, 
The blue when in a state of purity unites so completely with 
copal varnish that its transparency does not seem to be in the 
least affected by it. 

Yellow.— Turmeric root and gamboge give very beautiful 
yellows, and readily communicate their color to copal varnish 
made with turpentine. Aloes gives a varied and orange tint. 

Dark Red.— Dragon’s blood, digested in warm varnish, 
gives reds, the intensity of which depends upon the quantity of 
the coloring resin which combines with varnish. The artist, 
therefore, has it in his power to vary the tones at pleasure. 





































282 


DEPARTMENT V 


Though cochineal, in a state of division, gives very little color 
to oil of turpentine in comparison to that which it communi¬ 
cates to water, carmine may be introduced into the composition 
of varnish, colored by dragon’s blood. The result will be a 
purple red. 

Violet. — A mixture of carminated varnish and dragon’s 
blood, added to that colored by Prussian blue, produces violet. 
From these examples of the communication of colors to copal 
varnish, every person habituated to the operations of this art, 
and every amateur possessed of dexterity may readily prepare 
any color he desires. 

Gold-colored Varnish for Wood or Metal. —Take 2 

ounces of gum sandarac, 1 ounce of litharge of gold, 4 ounces of 
clarified linseed oil; boil them in a glazed earthen vessel till 
they appear of a transparent yellow, on a gas cooking-stove. 

Ciohl Varnish for Wood or Metal.— One ounce of litharge 

of gold, 2 ounces of gum sandarach, 4 ounces of clarified linseed 
oil. Boil them together in a glazed earthen vessel to a trans¬ 
parent yellow; to be used with a soft brush. 

Bright Varnish Green, for Inside Blinds, Fenders, 

etc.— The work must first be painted once over with a light lead 
color, and when dry, grind some white lead in spirits of turpen¬ 
tine; afterwards take about one-third in bulk of verdigris, which 
has been ground stiff in linseed oil; then mix them both to¬ 
gether, and put into it a little resin varnish, sufficient only to 
bind the color. When this is hard, which will be the case in 15 
minutes, pour into the color some resin varnish to give it a good 
gloss. Then go over the work a second time, and, if required, a 
third time. Thus you will have a cheap and beautiful green 
with a high polish. It possesses a very drying quality, as the 
worn: may be completed In a few hours. Tne tint may be varied 
according to taste, by substituting mineral green for verdigris; 
and if a bright grass-green is required, add a little Dutch pink 
to the mixture. This color must be used when quite warm, to 
give the varnish an uniform extension. 


THE FARRIER. 

Each and every recipe in this Department has been tested by 
the most eminent veterinary surgeons in the United States, and 
pronounced by them as the best. 

Arabian Horse Tamer’s Secret.-Take oil of cummin, 
on of rhodium, and horse" castor. Keep separate in air-tight 
bottles. Rub a little of the oil of cununiu on your hand and 
approach the horse on the windward side, so that he can smell 
the cummin. The horse will then let you come up to him with- 
™^ OUb , le * your hand gently on the horse’s nose, getting 

f'??* oil on it. He will then follow you. Give him a little of 
the castor on a piece of loaf sugar or apple; get a few drops of 




ALL TRADES 


283 




) 


the rhodium on his tongue, and he is your servant. He will fol¬ 
low you like a pet dog. 

Best Condition Powders.— Fenugreek, cream of tartar, 
gentian, sulphur, saltpeter, resin, black antimony, and ginger, 
each 2 ounces, cayenne pepper 1 ounce. Pulverize and mix 
thoroughly. Dose, 2 teaspoonfuls once a day in feed. 

Brittle and Contracted Hoofs. —Take castor oil, barba- 
does tar, and soft soap, equal parts of each. Melt all together 
and stir while cooling, and apply a little to the hoof 3 or 4 
times a week. 

Bone Spavin.— Dog’s lard y 2 pint, best oil organum, 1J4 
ounces, oil cajeput, 2 ounces, pulverized cantharides, *4 ounce. 
Mix, and apply each morning for 4 mornings, heating it in with 
hot iron each time, then discontinue its use for 3 days, after 
which use as before for 5 mornings. Wait about 8 or 10 days, 
and if not gone repeat as before. 

Bots.— Take new milk 2 quarts, syrup 1 quart. Mix and give 
the whole, and in 15 or 20 minutes after give 2 quarts of warm, 
strong sage tea; half an hour after the tea give 1 quart of raw 
linseed oil, or, if the oil can not be had, give lard instead. 

Colic. —Gum camphor 1 ounce, cayenne 1 ounce, gum myrrh 
1 ounce, powdered gum quaial 1 ounce, sassafras bark 1 ounce, 
spirits of turpentine 1 ounce, oil of organum % ounce, oil of 
hemlock V 2 ounce, pulverized opium l / 2 ounce, good alcohol 2 
quarts. Mix, and let stand 10 or 12 days and filter. Dose, from 
1 to 4 teaspoonfuls in a pint of milk. Keep this on hand. It is 
the best colic cure known. , 

Cure for Sweeney.— Alcohol and spirits of turpentine each 
8 ounces; camphor gum, pulverized cantharides and capsicum, 
each 1 ounce; oil of spike 3 ounces. Mix; bathe with hot iron. 

Cuts, Wounds and Sores.— Take of lard 4 ounces, beeswax 
4 ounces, resin 2 ounces, carbolic acid % ounce; mix the first 
three and melt; add carbolic acid, stirring until cool. This is 
excellent for man as well as beast. 

Cure for Scratches.— Sweet oil 3 ounces, borax 1 ounce, 
sugar of lead 1 ounce. Mix and apply twice daily after washing 
thoroughly with castile soap, giving time for legs to dry. 

Contracted Hoof and Sore Feet.— Take equal parts of 
soft fat. yellow wax, linseed oil. Venice turpentine and Norway 
tar. First melt the wax, then add the others, mixing thorough¬ 
ly. Apply to the edge of the hair once a day. 

Cracked Heels.— Tar 8 ounces, beeswax 1 ounce, resin 1 
ounce, alum 1 ounce, tallow 1 ounce, sulphate of iron 1 ounce, 
carbolic acid 1 dram. Mix, and boil over a slow fire. Skim off 
the filth and add 2 ounces of the scrapings of sweet elder. 

Condition Powder.— Take crude antimony 1 ounce, ground 
lobelia 1 ounce, ginger 2 ounces, sulphur flour 3 ounces, ground 
berberry 1 ounce, cream of tartar 4 ounces, saltpeter flour 4 


























































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284 


DEPARTMENT V 



ounces; well mixed. Dose. 1 tablespoonful each day in wet feed. 
Best in the market; will sell well. 

Diuretics. —Take balsam copaiba 2 ounces, sweet spirits of 
nitre 1 ounces spirits of turpentine 2 ounces, oil of juniper ~ 
ounces, tl S. of camphor % ounces - Mix; shake the bottle 
before pouring the medicine. Dose for adult horse, ~ table 
spoonfuls in a pint of milk, repeated every 4 or 6 hours if neces¬ 
sary. This is a reliable preparation for kidney difficulties. 

Eve Water. —White vitriol and pure saltpeter of each 1 scru¬ 
ple, pure soft water 8 ounces; mix. This should be applied to 
to the inflamed lids three or four times a day, and if 
mation does not lessen in one or two days it may be injected 
directly into the eye. The writer has used this for his own eyes, 
reduced y 2 with water, and dropped directly into the eye, which 
would cause the eye to smart considerably for about five minutes, 
when he should bathe the eye in cold water for a few minutes, 
and bv repeating this three or four times a day it has given the 
best of satisfaction. It does nicely, many times, to just close the 
eye and bathe the outside freely. 

Farcy.— Nitrate of potash 4 ounces, black antimony 2 ounces, 
sulphite of soda, 1 ounce, elecampane 2 ounces; mix. Dose, I 
tablespoonful once or twice a day. 

Farcy and Glanders. —Iodide of potassium, drams, cop¬ 
peras y 2 dram, ginger 1 dram, gentian 2 drams, powdered gum 
arabic and syrup to form a ball; or take % ounce sulphite soda. 
5 grains powdered cantharides. Mix, and give at night in cut 
feed for several weeks; give at the same time every morning 
and noon 3 drams powdered gentian, 2 drams powdered blue 
vitriol; give the medicines for a long time; feed well. This is 
the best treatment that can be given for this disease. 

Founder.— Vinegar 3 pints, capsicum y 2 dram, tincture of 
aconite root 15 drops. Mix and boil down to 1 quart; when 
cool give it as a drench. Blanket the horse well: after the horse 
has perspired for an hour or more, give 1 quart of raw linseed 
oil. This treatment will be found good for horses foundered by 
eating too much grain. 

Great Arabian Heave Remedy.— Give your horse a tea¬ 
spoonful of lobelia once a day for a week, and then once a week, 
and you will hardly know he ever had the heaves. Try it. 

Jockey Tricks.— How to make a horse appear as though he 
was badly foundered: Take a fine wire and fasten it tightly 
around the fetlock, between the foot and the heel, and smoothe 
the hair over it. In 20 minutes the horse will show lameness. 
Do not leave it on over 9 hours. To make a horse lame: Take 
a single hair from its tail, put it through the eye of a needle, 
then lift the front leg and press the skin between the outer and 
middle tendon or cord, and shove the needle through, cut off the 
hair each side and let down the foot. The horse will go lame in 
20 minutes. How to make a hoi’se stand by his food and not 


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take it: Grease the front teeth and the roof of the mouth with 
common beef tallow, and he will not eat until you wash it out. 
This in conjunction with the above will consummate a complete 
founder. Howto cure a horse from the crib or sucking wind: 
Saw between the upper teeth to the gums. How to put a young 
countenance on a horse: Make a small incision in the sunken 
place over the eye, insert the point of a goose-quill and blow it 
up; close the external wound with a thread, and it is done. To 
cover up the heaves: Drench the horse with 34 pound of common 
bird shot, and he will not heave until they pass through him. 
To make a horse appear as if he had the glanders: Melt 4 
ounces fresh butter and pour into his ear. To distinguish be¬ 
tween glanders and distemper: The discharge from the nose in 
glanders will sink in water; in distemper it floats. How to make 
a true pulling horse balk: Take tincture of cantharides 1 
ounce, and corrosive sublimate 1 dram; mix and bathe his 
shoulder at night. How to serve a horse that is lame: Make a 
small incision about half way from the knee to the joint on the 
outside of the leg, and at the back part of the shin bone you will 
find a small, white tendon or cord; cut it off and close the ex¬ 
ternal wound with a stitch, and he will walk ofl on the hardest 
pavement and not limp a particle. 

Liniment to Kill Pain.— One gallon alcohol, 1 ounce tinc¬ 
ture cayenne, 2 ounces tincture gum camphor, 2 ounces tincture 
ammonia, 34 ounce chloroform. Mix well and let stand twelve 
hours. 

Liniment, Wolf’s.— One quart alcohol. 2 ounces tincture 
arnica, 1 ounce oil hemlock, 1 ounce oil ol spike. Mix well, and 
let stand 24 hours. This will cure any burn, scald, bruise, 
sprain, or any like ailment, also aches and pains of all kinds. 
Apply by wetting a flannel cloth and wrapping it around the 
diseased parts. 

Mange.— Oil tar, 1 ounce, lac sulphur 134 ounces, whale oil 2 
ounces. Mix. Rub a little on the skin wherever the disease 
appears, and continue daily for a week, then wash off with Cas¬ 
tile soap and warm water. 

Poll-Evil.—1. Rock salt 1 ounce, blue vitriol 1 ounce, cop¬ 
peras 34 ounce. Pulverize and mix well. Fill a goose-quill with 
the powder and push to the bottom of the pipe. Have a stick at 
the top of the quill and push the powder out of the quill, leaving 
it at the bottom of the pipe. Repeat in 4 days, and in 2 or 3 days 
you can remove the pipe without any trouble. 2. (Poll-Evil and 
Fistula). Tincture of opium 1 dram, potash 2 drams, water 1 
ounce; mix, and when dissolved inject into the pipes with a 
small syringe, having cleansed the sore with soapsuds; repeat 
every 2 days until pipes are completely destroyed. 

Spavin and Ringbone.— Cantharides 1 ounce, mercurial 
ointment 34 ounce, corrosive sublimate y z dram, turpentine 134 
ounces, tincture iodine 1 ounce, gum euphorbium 4 ounces. 
Mix well with 1 pound of lard. For spavin or ringbone, cut the 







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hair away and grease the part well with the ointment, rubbing 
it in well. In 2 Jays grease the parts with lard; wash it off in 
2 days more, and again apply the ointment. So continue until 
a cure is effected, which will be in a short time. For bog spavin, 
wind gall, curb, or splint, apply the ointment every 6 days. 

Wounds and Cuts.— Take 4 ounces lard, beeswax 4 ounces, 
resin 3 ounces, vaseline 4 to 6 ounces. Melt these together, and 
add carbolic acid y 2 ounce. This is excellent. 








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10. Fore rib (5 ribs). 

11. Middle rib (4 ribs). 

12. Chuck rib (3 ribs). 

13. Teg- of mutton piece, 

14. Brisket 

15. Clod. 

16. Neck. 

17. Shank. 

18. Cheek. 

































































































































































































DEPARTMENT VI 


THE FARM AND DAIRY. 

Axle Grease, To Make.— 1 . One pound tallow, v pound 
castor oil, 14 pound blacklead; melt the tallow and rub the whole 
together until cold and well mixed. 2. Water 2 gallons, soda 1 
pound, palm oil 20 pounds; mix well by heat, and stir until 
nearly cold. Just enough grease should be applied to the spindle 
of a wagon to give it a light coating. 3. Tallow 8 pounds, palm 
oil 10 pounds, plumbago 1 pound. 

Note.—T o tighten tires to wheels, see same in last department. 
For Blackings and Enamels for harness, or the leather parts of 
buggies, etc., see “Leather.” 

Bins and Piles, To Measure. —So ascertain the number of 
bushels in a bin of any dimensions find the number of cubic feet 
by multiplying the three dimensions of the bin in feet, deduct 
1-5 and the result will be the number of bushels. To find the 
cubic contents of a pile in the usual form of a cone, find the area 
of the base by the old arithmetical rule of multiplying the square 
of its diameter in feet by .7854, and this product multiplied by 
Ya the height of the cone will give the cubic feet. 

Clearing- Ground of Stones.— 1 . Heat the stone to a high 
degree by means of a fierce fire applied to one part of it only, 
which will cause it to expand; then pour water upon it to make 
it crack, the effect being increased by blows from a heavy sledge 
hammer. 2. Pierce the stone in the direction of its veins and 
introduce into the hole a cleft cylinder of iron, then drive j* 
wedge in between the two halves of the cylinder. 3. A quantity 
of water placed in a hole made in a stone to a certain depth, and 
then stopped up, will during the winter season expand while 
freezing and break the strongest stone. 

Clearing' Stumps by Blasting _Punch a hole in the 

stump with a crowbar, then insert a cartridge of giant powder 
10 inches long by 1^4 inches in diameter; pour in water around 
the cartridge and touch off the fuse. It will blow the stump 
into fragments. 

Draining.— Tile draining, or by the means of pipes made of 
tiling, is by far the best method for drying wet land, although 

287 







































































288 


DEPARTMENT VI. 


the open ditch method is better than nothing. The following 
table gives the exact number of tiles required to the acre; 


Distance Apart. 

12-Inch 

Tiles. 

13-Inch 

Tiles. 

14-Inch 

Tiles. 

15-Inch 

Tiles. 

Drains 12 feet apart require.. 
Drains 15 feet apart require.. 
Drains 18 feet apart require.. 
Drains 21 feet apart require.. 
Drains 24 feet apart require.. 
Drains 27 feet apart require.. 
Drains 30 feet apart require.. 
Drains 33 feet apart require.. 
Drains 36 feet apart require.. 

3,630 

2,904 

2.420 

2,074 

1,815 

1,613 

1,452 

1,320 

1,210 

3.351 

2,681 

3,234 

1,914 

1,065 

1,480 

1,340 

1,218 

1,117 

3,111 

2,489 

2.074 

1,677 

1,556 

1,386 

1,245 

1,131 

1,037 

2,934 

.2,313 

1,936 

1,679 

1,452 

1,291 

1,162 

1,056 

968 


Fertilizers, Artificial.—1. Sulphate of ammonia, common 
salt and oil of vitriol, of each 10 parts, chloride of potassium 15 
parts, gypsum and sulphate of potassa, of each 17 parts, salt¬ 
peter 20 parts, crude epsom salts 25 parts, sulphate of soda 33 
parts; for clover. 2. Dry peat or marl 20 bushels, unbleached 
ashes 3 bushels, fine bone dust 3 bushels, calcined plaster 3 bush., 
nitrate of soda 40 pounds, snlphate of ammonia 33 pounds, sul¬ 
phate of soda 40 pounds; mix the peat, ashes and bone dust, 
then mix the nitrate and sulphate of soda and the ammonia in 5 
buckets of water; when dissolved add this to the first mixture; 
then add the calcined plaster and mix all thoroughly. 

The following quantities of various fertilizers should be used 
to the acre: Barnyard manure 15 to 20 tons, bone dust 16 to 20 
bushels, fresh fish 25 to 40 bushels (400 to 600 pounds), guano 
300 to 800 pounds, night soil 20 bushels, tanner’s refuse 500 to 
800 pounds, wood ashes 20 to 40 bushels. 

Fertilizers from Carcasses.— For a large animal draw 4 
or 5 wagon loads of muck, sod or mold; roll the carcass on to 
this; sprinkle freely with quick lime—10 or 12 wagon loads will 
not be too much. In less than a year several wagon loads of ex¬ 
cellent fertilizer will be made. Muck is the richness of upland 
soil washed by the rain down to the lowlands, where it accumu¬ 
lates. 

Hay, To Measure.— Weighing is the only accurate method 
of measui’ing hay. As this is not always convenient, we give the 
following methods of approximating the amount in meadows, 
mows or stacks: About 25 cubic yards of average meadow hay 
in windrows makes a ton; 15 to 18 cubic yards make a ton when 
well settled in mows or stacks; 20 to 25 cubic yards make a ton 
when it is loaded on wagons from mows or stacks; 25 «ubic 
yards of dry clover make a ton. 1. The number of tons of 
meadow hay raked into windrows may be found as follows; 
Multiply the length, width and height of the windrow in yards, 














































































DEPARTMENT VI. 


289 


and divide by 25. 2 . To find the number of tons in a mow mul¬ 
tiply the length, width and height in yards and divide the pro¬ 
duct by 15. 3. To find the number of tons of hay in old stacks 
find the area in square yards of the base by the table of areas of 
circles given in this department; then multiply the area of the 
base by *4 the altitude of the stack in yards, and divide by 15. 
4 . To ascertain the value of a given number of pounds of hay at 
a given price per ton of 2,000 pounds, multiply the number of 
pounds of hay, or any other article whicn is bought or sold by 
the ton, by one-half the price per ton, pointing off three figures 
from the right hand. The principle is the same as in interest; 
dividing the price by 2 gives the price of one-half ton, and point¬ 
ing of three figures to the right is dividing by 1,000. 

A truss of new hay is 60 pounds; old, 56 pounds; straw, 40 
pounds; a load of hay is 36 trusses; a bale of hay is 300 pounds. 


Parts of 

1 acre. 

Square 

feet. 

Feet 

square. 

Parts of 

1 acre. 

Square 

feet. 

Feet 

square. 

1-16 

2,722*4 

52*4 

y* 

21,780 

147 */ a 

% 

5,445 

73& 

1 

43,560 

208*4 

U 

10,890 

104*4 

2 

87,120 

295J4 

y 3 

14,520 

12014 





Plants or Trees in Acre. 


Distance Apart. No. 

3 inches by 3 inches.... 696.960 

4 inches by 4 inches.... 392.040 

6 inches by 6 inches.... 174,240 
9 inches by 9 inches— 77,440 

1 foot by 1 foot. 43,560 

li/ 2 feet by 1*4 feet. 19,360 

2 feet by 1 foot. 21,780 

2 feet by 2 feet. 10,890 

2^4 feet by 2*4 feet. 6,960 

3 feet by 1 foot. 14,520 

3 feet by 2 feet. 7,260 

3 feet by 3 feet. 4,840 

314 feet by 3*4 feet. 3,555 

4 feet by 1 foot. 10.890 

4 feet by 2 feet. 5,445 

4 feet by 3 feet. 3,630 

4 feet by 4 feet. 2,722 

4J4 feet by 4*4 feet. 2,151 

5 feet by 5 feet. 1,742 

6 feet by 6 feet. 1,210 


Distance Apart. No. 

614 feet by 6*4 feet. 1.031 

7 feet by 7 feet. 881 

8 feet by 8 feet. 680 

9 feet by 9 feet. 537 

10 feet by 10 feet. 435 

11 feet by 11 feet. 360 

12 feet by 12 feet. 302 

13 feet by 13 feet. 257 

14 feet by 14 feet. 221 

15 feet by 15 feet. 193 

16 feet by 16 feet. 170 

17 feet by 17 feet. 150 

18 feet by 18 feet. 134 

19 feet by 19 feet. 120 

20 feet by 20 feet. 108 

25 feet by 25 feet. 69 

30 feet by 30 feet. 48 

40 feet by 40 feet. 27 

50 feet by 50 feet. 17 



















































































































290 


DEPARTMENT VI. 


Quantity of Seed Required for a Given Space. 

Asparagus—One ounce produces 1,000 plants, and requires a bed 
12 feet square. 

Asparagus Roots—One thousand plants require a bed 4 feet wide 
and 225 feet long. 

English Dwarf Beans—One quart plants 100 to 150 feet of row. 
French Dwarf Beans—One quart plants 250 to 350 feet of row. 
Beans. Pale, Large—One quart plants 100 hills. 

Beans. Pale, Small—One quart plants 300 hills or 250 feet of row. 
Beets—Ten pounds to 1 acre; 1 ounce plants 150 feet of row. 
Cabbage—One ounce plants 2,500 plants, and requires 40 square 
feet of ground. 

Cauliflower—The same as cabbage. 

Carrots—One ounce to 150 feet of row. 

Celery—One ounce gives 7,000 plants and requires 8 square feet 
of ground. 

Cucumber—One ounce plants 150 hills. 

Cress—One ounce sows a bed 16 feet square. 

Egg Plant—One ounce gives 2,000 plants. 

Leek—One ounce gives 2,000 plants; requires 60 feet of ground. 
Lettuce—One ounce gives 7,000 plants; requires a bed of 120 feet. 
Melon—One ounce plants 120 hills. 

Onion—One ounce sows 200 feet of row. 

Okra—One ounce sows 200 feet of row. 

Parsley—One ounce sows 200 feet of row. 

Parsnip—One ounce sows 250 feet of row. 

Peppers—One ounce gives 2,500 plants. 

Peas—One quart sows 120 feet of row. 

Pumpkin—One ounce plants 50 hills. 

Radish—One ounce sows 100 feet. 

Salsify—One ounce sows 150 feet of row. 

Spinach—One ounce sows 200 feet of row 
Squash—One ounce plants 75 htlls. 

Tomato—One ounce gives 2,200 plants; requires a bed of 80 feet. 
Turnip—One ounce sows 2.000 feet. 

Watermelon—One ounce plants 50 hills. 


Quantity of Seed to the Acre. 


Wheat . 


Potatoes. 


Barley. 

...l l / 2 to 2*4 

“ 

Timothy. 


qts 

Oats. 


to 4 

44 

Mustard. 


44 

Rye. 


to 2 

(4 

Herd’s Grass.... 

..12 to 16 

44 

Buckwheat.... 

... *4 

to l y 3 

44 

Flat Turnip... . 

.. 2 to 3 

lbs 

Millet. 

. ..l 

to 1*4 

44 

Red Clover . 

..10 to 16 

4 » 

Corn . 

... H to 1 

44 

White Clover.. .. 

.. 3 to 4 

44 

Beans . 


to 2 

44 

Blue Grass . 


44 

Peas . 


4k 

Orchard Grass. . 

..20 to 30 

44 

Hemp . 

...l 

to 1*4 

44 

Carrots . 


44 

Flax . 

...1 

to 1*4 

44 

Parsnips . 


44 

Rice . 

o 

to 2*4 

4 » 

Onions . 


44 

Broom Corn... 

...1 

to l/ 2 

44 

Beets . 


44 
































































































DEPARTMENT VI. 291 


WEATHER INDICATIONS. 

Changes In Weather, How to Foretell.— Rain invari¬ 
ably follows when cattle sniff the air and herd together in a 
corner of the field with their heads to leeward, or take shelter in 
the sheds; when sheep leave the pasture unwillingly; when dogs 
lie about the fireside more than usual and appear drowsy; when 
cats turn their backs to the fire and wash their faces; when pigs 
cover themselves more than usual in litter*, when cocks crow at 
unusual hours and flap their wings much; when hens chant; 
when ducks and geese are unusually noisy; when pigeons wash 
themselves; when peacocks squall loudly from trees; when the 
guinea fowl makes a continuous crating clamor; when sparrows 
chirp loudly and with much fuss congregate on the ground or 
elsewhere; when swallows fly low and skim their wings on ac¬ 
count of the flies upon which they feed having descended toward 
the ground; when the carrion crow croaks solitarily; when wild 
water fowl dip and wash unusually; when moles throw up hills 
more industriously; when toads creep out in numbers; when 
frogs croak; when bats squeak and enter houses; when singing 
birds take shelter; when the robin approaches nearest the house; 
when tame swans fly against the wind; when bees leave their 
hives with caution and fly short distances; when ants carry their 
eggs busily; when flies bite severely and become troublesome in 
numbers; and when earth worms appear on the surface. 

Chemical Barometer.— Put a small quantity of finely 
pulverized alum in a long jounce vial and fill it with alcohol. 
When the atmosphere is dry and clear the spirits will be clear 
as crystal, but on the approach of rain or bad weather the alum 
will rise in the center in the form of a spiral cloud. This is a 
sure indication. 



Catgut and Straw.— A simple hydrometer can be made of 
a piece of catgut and a straw. The catgut is twisted and put 
through a hole in a dial, in which a straw is also placed. In dry 
weather the catgut curls up; in damp it relaxes; and so the 
straw is turned either to one side or the other. 

Color of Sky.— An intensely blue and serene sky indicates 
severe storms and heavy rains in from 12 to 48 hours. A gray, 
hazy sky indicates continuous dry, and usually hot weather. A 
bright sunset presages fair weather. A bright yellow in the 
evening indicates wind; a pale yellow, rain. A natural gray 
color constitutes a favorable sign in the evening; an unfavorable 
one in the morning. 

Fiinatioiis of the Moon.— The following table, etc., is the 
result of many years’ observation, and will seldom prove un¬ 
availing: 1. The nearer the time of the moon’s changes, first 
quarter, full, or last quarter, are to midnight, the fairer will the 
weather be the seven days following. The space for this calcu¬ 
lation occupies from 10 p. m. to 2 a. m. 2. The nearer to mid¬ 
day or noon the changes occur the more foul will the weather be 
during the seven days following. The space for this calcula- 

































P— / 1. 









(fiT 


ay 


J9 


% 


292 


DEPARTMENT \x. 


tion occupies from 10 a. m. to 2 p. m. These observations refer 
principally to summer, though they affect spring and autumn 
in nearly the same ratio. Table is as follows: 


Time of Change. 


Between midnight 
and 2 a. m. 


Between 2 and 4 
a. m. 


Summer. 


In Winter. 


Fair. 


Between 4 and 6 
a. m. 


Cold, with frequent 
showers' 


Between 6 and 8 
a. m. 


Between 8 and 10 
a. m. 


Between 10 and 12 
a. m. 


At 12 o’clock noon 
and 2 p m. 


Between 2 and 4 
p. m. 


cel 


Between 4 and 6 
p. m. 

Between 6 and 8 
p. m. 


Between 8 and 10 
p. m 


Rain. 


Wind and Rain. 


Changeable 


Frequent showers. 


Hard frost unless 
wind be S. or W. 


Snowy and stormy. 


Rain. 


Stormy. 


Cold rain if wind be 
W.; snow if E 


Very rainy. 


Changeable. 


Fair. 


Fair if wind is N.W. 
Rain if S. or S.W. 


Rainy if wind is S. 
S. W. 


Cold and high wind. 


Snow or rain. 


Fair and mild. 


Fair. 


Fair and frosty if 
wind is N. or N.E. 
Rain or snow if 
S. or S. W. 


Rain or snow if the 
wind be S. or S.W. 



Xs~x) 










































































































2L& 











ian4 

A 

lUf] 

' &S& (Hi • 


DEPARTMENT VI. 


293 


Smoke. —Dense smoke or haze in the early morning portend 
falling weather. If the smoke rises the weather will be clear; 
if it falls the weather will be rainy, 

Wind.— Wind veering from north or west to south or south¬ 
east precedes falling weather. If the wind is in the southwest 
and rain sets in. the rain will be of short duration and light 
yield. As a rule if the wind touches northeast or east for two or 
three days it is a sure sign of rain. An immediate cessation of 
rain occurs as soon as a northwest wind sets in. The west wind 
brings three or four clear days. 


STORING AND CURING. 





FRUIT AND VEGETABLES. 




~(JC 


//' /JV \ 

' /' iijko 


Fruit which is to be kept beyond the natural period of ripen¬ 
ing must be gathered before fully ripe. All sudden changes in 
temperature and moisture are productive of decay, and should 
be avoided. A dry, cool place, where the temperature is even is 
best calculated to retard decay and improve the keeping quali¬ 
ties. 1. The following preparation is unequalled for preserving 
apples, pears, lemons, etc.: Rosin 2 pounds, tallow 2 ounces, 
beeswax 2 ounces; melt slowly in an iron pot, but don’t boil; 
take the fruit separately and rub it over with pulverized chalk 
or whiting to prevent the coating adhering to the fruit, then dip 
it into the solution once and hold it up a moment to set the coat¬ 
ing, then pack away carefully in barrels, boxes or on shelves in 
a cool place. 2. Glycerine of the purest quality has been recom¬ 
mended for the preservation of fruits; previous to eating 
the fruit should be immersed in water to remove the glycerine. 
3. Using wheat bran for packing tender specimens of fruit to 
prevent bruising has been long p racticed, but an improvement 
to this has been made by which, in addition to this protection, 
the fruit is preserved from decay. The bran is slightly charred 
by a patent process. 4 . Dry sand is one of the best articles in 
which to pack fruit; packed in this it will keep the year round. 
The fruit must be sound when stored, and the sand must be ab¬ 
solutely dry. The chief advantages of packing in sand are the 
exclusion of air currents, the preservation from changes of tem¬ 
perature and the absorption of moisture. 

Apples, To Dry.— Pare and cut the apples in slices; then 
spread them on cloths, tables or boards and dry them outdoors. 
In clear dry weather this is the most expeditious plan. It is a 
good idea to use frames. These combine the most advantages 
with the least inconveniences in any way, and can be used either 
in drying in the house or out in the sun. In pleasant weather 
the frames can be set outdoors against the side of the building, 







ll ! ^ v\V\ 
















































isw 
I 


fA %5r 



UL 





y) 



294 DEPARTMENT VI. 

and at night or in damp cloudy weather can be brought into the 
house and set near the stove or fireplace. After the apples 
are pared, quartered and cored, string them in lengths to reach 
twice across the frame; the ends of the twine are then tied to¬ 
gether and the string hung on the nails across the frame. As 
fast as the apples are dry they can be taken from the string and 
others placed on to go through the same process. Dried apples 
are bleached by exposing to the fumes of burning sulphur. , 

Apples, To Keep.— 1. The fruit must be free from bruise or 
blemish, and should be spread out on shelves or packed in barrels, 
and kept in a temperature of 40 to 45 degrees. Some cellars are 
just toe thing, and preserve them beautifully; others are too 
moist. Where this is the case a few bushels of stone lime should 
be used. Sliding shelves, six inches apart, latticed bottom, with 
single layers of fruit, are extremely convenient, as they allow of 
frequent examination without disturbing the fruit. 2. Fall 
apples may be preserved in pits made'as lollows; Choose an 
elevated piece of ground in the orchard, and scoop out a shallow 
basin, in which heap the apples in quantities of not more than 
10 or 12 bushels: cover them with straw laid lengthwise from 
top to bottom of the heap: leave them thus two or three days, 
during which time they will heat and sweat; after they have 
dried cover the straw with a light coating of earth except in 
three or four small places at the top and at the bottom, where a 
large wisp of straw should be inserted and bent over to make a 
water-shed. 

Apples, To Pack.— 1. Assort them so as to run uniform in 
size and quality. Pack in new sound barrels of the standard 
size, fiat hoops preferred, only one variety in a barrel; turn the 
upper end of the barrel down, take out tbe lower head and com¬ 
mence packing by placing a tier of apples, stems down, upon 
tbe head, then fill up the barrel without bruising the fruit; 
shake down gently but thoroughly, and fill so full that the head 
must be pressed in with a level or barrel press, flattening tbe 
last tier of apples; then fastening the head turn the barrel over 
and mark plainly with a stencil or piece of red chalk, or ink, the 
variety contained. 2. Wrap each apple in manilla tissue paper; 
then pack as solidly as possible, putting a layer of soft chaff at 
the bottom of the barrel and sifting more over every layer. 
When the barrel is full place plenty of packing on top and press 
the head firmly down. In this condition apples will travel for 
months without injury. 

Cherries, To Dry.— 1. Stone, spread on a flat dish and dry 
in the sun or a warm oven; pour whatever juice may run from 
them over them, a little at a time. Stir them about that they 
may dry evenly. When perfectly dry line boxes or jars with 
white paper and pack close in layers; strew a little brown sugar 
over the cherries and fold the top of the paper over them 
and keep in a dry sweet place. 2. Take large cherries, 
not too ripe; remove the pits; take equal weights of cherries 
and sugar; make a thick syrup of the sugar; put in the cherries 


t 


L 
















































Si. 11 


d 




m<i\ 

m ^ 

IV M 

^ ,1 :'/riCKll la - 


and boil them a minute and spread them on earthen platters till 
next day; strain the syrup and boil it down thick; put the 
cherries in and boil five minutes. Spread on platters as before; 
repeat the boiling two more days; then drain, lay them on wire 
sieves and dry in an oven nearly cold. 

Cranberries, To Keep.— Cranberries will keep all winter 
in a firkin or tub of water in a cellar. 

Currants, To Dry.— Beat up the whites of eggs or a little 
gum arabic in water, and after dipping in the bunches and let¬ 
ting them get a little dry, roll them in finely powdered loaf 
sugar; lay them on a sieve in an oven to dry, and keep turning 
them and adding sugar until they are perfectly dried. Not only 
red, white and black currants, but even grapes in bunches may 
be thus dried and preserved. They should be carefully kept dry 
in boxes lined with paper. 

Figs, To Dry.— When ripe the figs are picked and laid out 
in the sun to dry, those of the better quality being much pulled 
and extended by hand during the process. Thus prepared the 
fruit is packed closely in barrels, rush baskets or wooden boxes. 

Gooseberries, To Dry.— To 7 pounds of red gooseberries 
add l!4 pounds powdered white sugar, which must be strewed, 
over them in the preserving pan. Let them remain at a good heat 
over a slow fire until they begin to break; then remove them. 
Repeat this process for two or three days; then take the berries 
from the syrup and place them in sieves near the fire to dry, 
spreading them out evenly. The syrup may be used for other 
preserves. When the gooseberries are quite dry store them in 
tin boxes or layers of paper. 

Grapes, To Dry.— 4. The grapes are allowed to remain on the 
vine until of a golden color and translucent; they are then picked 
and placed on wooden trays, 2 feet by 3 in size, between the 
rows, sloping to the sun; when half dried they are turned by 
placing an empty tray on top and turning over, thus transfer¬ 
ring the contents from one tray to the other. When the grapes 
lose their ashy appearance, and after removing the green ones, 
the rest are put into large surat boxes with sheets of paner be¬ 
tween every 25 pounds of raisins; they are left there for two 
weeks, when the stems are tough and the raisins soft. The 
packing follows, in which iron or steel packing frames are used, 
the raisins being assorted, weighed, inspected and made present¬ 
able. 2. The grapes are allowed to ripen and dry on the vines. 
After being plucked and cleaned, they are dipped for a few 
seconds into a boiling lye of wood ashes and quick lime of 12 o 
or 15 o Baume, to every 4 gallons of which a handful of common 
salt and 1 pint of sweet oil has been added. They are then ex¬ 
posed 12 or 14 days in the sun to dry. Lastly, they are care¬ 
fully picked over to remove imperfect ones, and packed for ship¬ 
ping. The sweet, fleshy kinds of grapes are those selected for 
the above treatment. 

’Grapes, To Keep.— Grapes in bunches are preserved by 


ft 



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vya 






Suja , 

- SvT.t, 
... ,ot ; 
IffitalMb 




6« i 


iff 













































296 


DEPARTMENT VI. 


wrapping them in silver paper and packing them in dry bran. 
Each bunch is suspended by the stem with the fingers of one 
hand while the bran is poured around it with the other, tho jar 
being occasionally shaken as the packing proceeds. Some paper 
is then tied over the mouth of the jar and a bladder over all to 
exclude moisture. 

Lemons, To Keep.— 1 . Cover them with buttermilk or sour 
milk, changing once a week. Even lemons which are quite dry 
seem fresh if kept in this way. 2. Lemons can be kept for 
months by putting them in a clean tight cask or jar and cover¬ 
ing them with cold water. The water must be changed as often 
as every other day, and the receptacle kept in a cool place. 

Lemons and ©ranges* To Pack.— Examine each one 
carefully to see that it is perfect; then wrap it in tissue paper 
and pack closely in boxes. 

Peaches, To Dry.— Let the fruit get mellow enough to be 
in good eating condition; put them in boiling water for a 
minute or two and the skins will peel off readily; let them re¬ 
main just long enough in the water to accomplish this; no 
longer: then quarter the fruit and place in the sun or near the 
stove to dry. 

Peaches and Pears, To Keep.— Both peaches and pears 
can be kept several weeks by picking them just before ripening 
and wrapping them in tissue paper; pack in jars and keep in a 
temperature not above 60 degrees. 

Raspberries, To Dry.— Black raspberries and blackberries 
are dried whole, and care must be taken that they are unbroken. 
Sun heat is the best method. Red raspberries do not dry well. 


VEGETABLES. 

To enjoy wholesome and palatable vegetables during the win¬ 
ter months proper care is essential in gathering and storing. 
As the cellars of most houses are too warm for proper preserva¬ 
tion, the main stock should be kept in cool cellars, barns or pits 
dug outside. If it is not practicable to do this, select the vege¬ 
tables to be kept with great care, and endeavor to keep them 
where the air is pure and cool, but free from moisture. A good 
plan is as follows; Sink a barrel, box or cask two-thirds its 
depth into the ground; heap the earth around the part project¬ 
ing out of the ground with a slope on all sides: place the vege¬ 
tables in the barrel, cover the top with a water-tight cover, and 
when winter sets in throw an armful of straw on the barrel. If 
the bottom is out of the barrel so much the better. Cabbage, 
celery and other vegetables will keep in this way as fresh as 
when taken out of the ground. Celery should stand nearly per¬ 
pendicular; celery and earth alternating. Freedom from "frost, 
ease of access, and especially freedom from rot, and freshness, 
are the advantages of this plan. 



















































rC 



:,/\V 


Beans, Lima, To Dry.— Gather while green and tender, 
and spread in the sun to dry. 

Beans, String, To Dry.— Cut the beans up in the usual 
lengths; dry them and put in a bag. In winter soak them and 
cook in the usual way. 

Beans, To Keep. —Take a wide-mouthed jar, lay on the bot¬ 
tom of it some freshly pulled snap beans, and over them put a 
layer of salt; fill the jar up in this manner with altei’nate layers 
of beans and salt. They will keep good for a year. When pre¬ 
paring for use soak in fresh water for several hours. 

Cabbage, To Keep.— 1 . Gather them before the severe fall 
frosts; let the coarse outside leaves remain; fix a strong string 
around the stalk and suspend the cabbage from the timbers of 
ceiling, head downward. The cellar should be cool and dry. 
This method will preserve them with certainty. 2. Pack in saw¬ 
dust in the barn and allow the whole to freeze, the sawdust being 
such a non-couductor of heat that once it becomes frozen through 
it will not thaw out until well in April, and the cabbage will 
come out almost as nice as when put in. 3. Cut the head from 
the stump; pack close in a cask and fill the vacancies with dry 
chaff or bran. Keep in a dry cellar. 

Cauliflower, To Keep.— They can be kept in a cellar by 
covering the roots and stalks with earth till Feburavy, or they 
may be placed in a trench in the garden, roots down, and covered 
with earth up close to the heads; then cover with hay or straw 
four or five inches thick, placing just enough earth on the straw 
to keep it in position. 

Celery, To Keep. —About the last of October dig a trench 
18 inches deep and 12 inches wide in some dry place where 
drainage is perfect, so that no water can stand in it; lift the 
celery with considerable soil about the roots; stand the branches 
upright, as they grow, in the trench; pack them as close as pos¬ 
sible; draw the earth close against them: then cover them with 
a board, and on this place coarse straw or leaves, or both. 

Corn,To Dry.— 1 . Clean the silk carefully from the corn; put 
the ears in a steamer over a kettle of hot water and steam 
10 minutes; then draw a knife through each row of kernels and 
-scrape out the pulp, leaving the hulls on the cob; spread on 
plates and carefully dry without scorching. 2. Husk the corn 
and remove the silk; then cut off the kernels with a sharp knife. 
To 6 quarts of corn add 1 teacupful of sugar and stir well to¬ 
gether; put on platters and set in the oven; let it remain 10 
minutes; then remove it and place on a clean table, or other 
large cloth, and spread in the sun to dry; when dry put in a jar 
or box to keep. 

Onions, To Keep.— Gather in the fall and remove the tops; 
then spread upon a barn floor or an open shed and allow them to 
remain there until perfectly dry; put in barrels, boxes or small 
bins and set in a cool place, and at the approach of cold weather 
cover with straw or chaff if there is danger of severe freezing. 








mmm 

















































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MiJ 






298 


DEPARTMENT VI. 


Onions are more frequently injured in winter by keeping them 
in to., warm a place thau by frost. It is the alternate freezing 
and thawing that injures and destroys them, and if placed in a 
position where they will remain frozen all winter and then 
thawed out slowly in a dark place, no considerable injury will 
be done them. Onions should always be stored in the coolest 
part of the cellar or put in chaff and set in the barn or some out¬ 
house. 


Parsley, To Dry.— To have bright crisp parsley for winter 
spread thinly, as soon as gathered, on a piece of paper, and place 
in a cool oven with the doors left open. As soon as dry powder 
it and put in a bottle, corking to exclude the air. Dried in this 
way it will retain its color and flavor. 







/v f r -y 




Parsnips, To Keep— The roots should be dug up late in 
fall, leaving all the tops on; then carefully heeled in thickly to¬ 
gether in rows, after which they should be covered with a little 
coarse litter, and they can be reached whenever wanted during 
the winter. . 


nC 


v \) \ v 

Y\ \ \ 




Peas, To Dry.— Look the peas over, and remove any that 
are bad; then place them in the sun until they are dried. 


'Am 


Peas, Green, To Keep.— When full- grown pick and shell; 
lay them on dishes or tins in a cool oven or before a bright fire; 
do not heap the peas on the dish, but merely cover them; stir 
frequently and let them dry gradually; when hard let them cool; 
then pack in stone jars, cover close and keep in a very dry place. 
When required for uso let them soak for some hours in cold 
-water till they look plump before boiling. Excellent for soupi 

Potatoes, To Keep.— 1. A cave dug in the side of a hill, or 
a pit in a sand bank affords a excellent place for storing pota¬ 
toes. If piled on top of the ground and covered with earth and 
straw, care should be taken that they are not exposed to the 
light. A dark cellar is preferable to a light one for keeping 
potatoes. 2. To prevent potatoes from rotting dust the floor of 
the bin with lime and put in 6 or 7 inches of potatoes; then dust 
with lime as before and add more potatoes, using about 1 bushel 
of lime to 40 bushels of potatoes. The lime improves the flavor 
of the potatoes and effectually kills the fungi which cause the rot. 

Pumpkins, To Dry.— Take ripe pumpkins, pare, cut iuto 
small pieces, stew soft, mash and strain through a colander as 
if for making pies; spread this pulp on plates in lavers about V4 
inch thick; dry in an oven at a temperature sufficiently low as 
not to scorch it. In about a day it will become dry and crisp. 
The sheets thus made can be stored away in dry places, and are 
always ready for use for stewing or making pies. 

Rhubarb, To Dry.— The best method is to strip it of its 
skin. This is a long operation, but both time and expense are 
spared in the end by the promptness and regularity of the drying. 

Salsify, To Keep.— Salsify is kept best and improved by 
freezing. 





I j") 1(f 





































DEP 4RTMENT VI. 


299 


Squashes, To Keep.— Squashes are injured by the slight¬ 
est frosts and should be kept in a warm, dry storeroom rather 
than a cellar. If hung up by the stem in a moderately cool place 
they will keep for months. 

Sweet Potatoes, To Keep. —There is no better way than 
to pack them in dry sand in boxes and keep the temperature of 
the place where they are stored between 45 o and 60 o Fahren¬ 
heit. Where one has but a few, dig when thoroughly ripe; 
handle carefully so as not to bruise; dry well and place them in 
the kitchen near the stove or some other warm place. 

Tomatoes, To Keep.— Pick the green tomatoes before the 
vines freeze; put in a cool, dry place where air can be admitted 
and frost kept out. 

Turnips, To Keep.— Turnips are very susceptible to heat. 
They will sprout in a temperature of 40 o. A little frost does 
not hurt them. Place in small lots in stalls where the frost can 
get at them and cover with straw. 


THE DAIRY. 


niLK AND MILKING. 

Milk is a source of profit to the farmer when sold in its original 
state or made up into butter and cheese. To have good milk re¬ 
quires good food for the cows, for unless they are so fed it would 
be folly to expect any satisfactory returns. Then again, care 
should be taken to keep them perfectly clean and comfortably 
housed. Animals suffer from the inclemency of the weather, 
and a cow when distressed from any source shows it in the qual¬ 
ity of her milk. To make good butter requires good milk, there¬ 
fore the cows should be well fed and properly cared for. In 
milking observe the following rules:. 

Do not use a cow milking machine. They do not give good 
service, and in time injure the cow, besides causing them to run 
dry quicker. The hand method is the best. The milker should 
work both hands rapidiy, keeping up a constant flow until the 
udder is empty, when (except in severely cold weather) the milk 
will be crested with a fleecy foam. Cleanliness is one great 
point to be kept in view. The best time to milk is either before 
or after feeding—never while the cow is eating. Do not drav’ 
the milk with a downward jerk; it irritates the cow and of times 
works injury to the bag. Fill the teat, and with a firm pressure 
on the last three fingers empty it, drawing slightly on the teat 
and udder at the same time; so proceed alternately with each 
hand until the supply of milk is exhausted. The cow should be 
milked regularly and stripped quite clean. The milk will be 
quite thin in quality before calving, and should not be used for 


\ 

































































300 


DEPARTMENT VI. 


some days after calving, as at such times it is fit only for the use 
of the calf. 

Before setting, the milk should be strained into cans and then 
set into cold water as fast as the cows are milked. Never mix 
the night’s milk with the morning’s. If cream is wanted for im¬ 
mediate use, enough will rise in 2 or 3 hours; for butter let it 
set at least 24 hours; 36 hours is the time in which all the cream 
will rise. 

In skimming the cream should be taken off either early in the 
morning or in the evening after sunset. Take it off neatly and 
carefully with a skimmer; deposit it in clean stone crocks or a 
tin pail if for butter, or the cream jug if for immediate use. If 
the cream is for supper skim the morning's milk, if for breakfast 
that of the night before. 

To prevent souring from thunder storms start a fire in the 
dairy; this should be done even in the hottest weather. Another 
good plan, which answers at all times, is to add to each quart 15 
grains of bicarbonate of soda. A thin iron chain passed through 
the milk pans and the ends kept in cold water will prevent sour¬ 
ing. 

Butter, To Make.— Set the milk according to directions 
given; then skim; stir the cream every day; and the day before 
churning set the pot near the stove to allow the cream to warm 
and get sonr. To sour the cream take the milk after it has 
stood 9 or 10 hours and place it over a clear slow fire, but do not 
boil it. In summer the process of scalding should be quicker 
than in winter, as in very hot weather, if the milk should be 
kept too long over a slow fire, it would be apt to run or curdle. 
Now turn all the cream into the churn. The coloring (if any is 
to be used) should be added now or worked into the butter after 
churning, but by adding it during the process or before churn¬ 
ing. the color will be more evenly mixed with the butter. In 
churning care should be taken that the agitation is not too rapid 
or so violent as to injure the grain of the butter. Churning 
should occupy from y 2 to % of an hour; if the butter should be 
hard and granular, refusing to come together well, throw in a 
little warm water, churning all the while, and the butter will be 
gathered and ready to take up. Then work it until the butter¬ 
milk is worked out; this is an important feature. Buttermilk 
contains the sugar, caseine and salt of milk, and when it is pro¬ 
cured from sweet cream is both delicious and nourishing, be¬ 
sides being easy of digestion. One ounce of fine purified dairy 
salt should be used for each pound of butter. The quality of the 
salt should be strong marine, free from the brine of mineral salt. 
The longer the butter is to be kept the greater the proportion of 
salt which should be used. Summer butter is the best for salt¬ 
ing to keep. 

»Butter, To Make Come.— To 20 pounds of butter add 1 tea¬ 
spoonful of bicarbonate of soda and 1 teaspoonful of powdered 
aluminate of sodium; put into the cream at the time of churn¬ 
ing. It is claimed that the powder makes the butter come firm 


















































and solid and gives it a clean, sweet flavor, and that the yield of 
butter will be increased and the labor of churning shortened; 
but this method is not advisable, as it adds to the butter a part 
of the curd that belongs to cheese-making properly. 

Blitter, To Color.— 1 . Annatto 1 ouuce, curcuma 1 ounce, 
nice sweet lard 4 pounds; put 1 pound of lard in an iron kettle 
on the stove with the annatto; stir continually to prevent burn¬ 
ing; put the curcuma and 1 pound of lard in another kettle: 
treat likewise; when the lard, ’which rises to the top, is of a 
bright clear amber color turn off the clear lard from both kettles 
into a jar, leaving the sediment at the bottom of the kettles: put 
the rest of the lard on this and heat and stir again until it is all 
dissolved: strain it after mixing together through toweling. 2. 
Annatto 5 ounces, pulverized turmeric G ounces, saffron 1 ounce, 
lard oil 1 pint, butter 5 pounds. The butter is first melted in a 
pan over the water bath (which see in Department I.) and 
strained through a fine linen towel; the saffron is made into y 2 
pint tincture, and together with the turmeric and the annatto is 
stirred into the butter and oil while hot, and boiled and stirred 
for about 15 minutes; it is then strained through a cloth a.s 
before and stirred until cool. 3. Annatto 10 parts; caustic 
potassa l l / 2 parts, borax 1 part, water 100 parts, tincture of tur¬ 
meric 20 parts; mix and filter. 4 . Take 2 large carrots, clean 
thoroughly, and then with a knife scrape off the yellow exterior, 
leaving the white pith; soak the yellow part in boiling milk IQ 
or 15 minutes; strain boiling hot into the cream. This gives 
the cream the desired temperature, colors it nicely, an ' adds to 
the sweetness of the butter. 

Butter, Baneiil, To Purify.— 1 . Melt in twice its weight 
of boiling water and shake well; pour the melted butter into ice 
water to regain its consistence. 2. Wash in good new milk; 
wash afterward in cold spring water. 3. First agitate the butter 
with hot water. On standing, it soon separates from the water, 
when it is again agitated for some time with an equal volume of 
fresh hot water and 2 ounces to the pound of fresh animal char¬ 
coal in coarse powder, free from dust. It is freed from charcoal 
by straining through a cloth while hot. and from the water by 
the difference in specific gravity. The butter when cold is weil 
wxtshed in sweet milk, to which a little sulphite ot lime has been 
added; then reworked, salted and colored with a small quantity 
of annatto. An objection to this recipe is that so much working 
has a tendency to destroy the grain and make the butter oily. 

Eji’S'S, To Preserve.- 1 . Coat the eggs with lard or clean 
grease; pack them in bran. 2. Wrap each egg in soft paper, 
twisting each end of the paper so that it cannot become loosened 
from the egg; take a bag of coarse muslin made in the shape of 
a pillow-slip, draw up one end in your hand, tie strong string 
around it tightly, leaving the ends long enough to tie a loop; 
place the eggs in this bag. ends down. It does not matter which 
end. but do not have them on the side. Put 50 in one bag: draw 
up the open end of the bag firmly against the eggs and tie it like 


IT 
















































































the other end; suspend the hag where it will be free from injury 
from contact. 3. As tne eggs are taken from the nest brush 
each one with a thin solution of gum arabic, being careful to 
leave no portion of the shell uncovered. One-half of each egg 
must first be done and left to dry before the remainder is 
touched, that the gum may not be rubbed off any part by contact 
while wet with the hand as it is held to be varnished, or with 
the table when laid down to harden. 

Eg-g-s, To Pack.— Eggs are best packed in boxes with divi¬ 
sions of stiff paper or pasteboard, so that they will not touch in 
transportation. Sometimes egg boxes are handled roughly by 
expressmen and others, and rough handling has a tendency to 
bruise the eggs. 


DESTRUCTIVE INSECTS. 


m 


WORnS AND OTHER PESTS. 

Apple Tree louse.-' This insect feeds on the leaves and 
twigs of apple trees. The female is without wings, of a pale 
green, with yellowish head and dark green stripes on the back. 
The winged ones have black heads, green abdomens and a row 
of black dots on either side. Tobacco juice and lime mixed will 
kill them. 

Army Worm.— The army worm which causes such ravages 
among the small grains, corn and grass, is 1 % inches in length 
when fully grown, and is striped lengthwise with black, dark 
green and yellowish lines intermingled with marginal white 
hair lines. The head is light or a yellowish brown, and has two 
blackish bent lines on the face. It has 16 feet, 6 small black 
ones in front. 8 fleshy ones along the middle part, and 2 at the 
hinder end. Its ravages begin about the last of May or 1st of 
June, great numbers travelling together, from which they got 
their name. They rarely touch clover or rye, timothy, blue 
grass and winter wheat being more to their liking, but when 
iinrd pressed they will eat the leaves of vegetables, fruit trees 
and even each other. They are generally more destructive in 
a wet year following a dry one. Burning over a meadow or 
prairie or stubble field in winter or spring will effectually pre- 
breedin S in such field. A ditch, with side 
tbe d€dd to be protected, perpendicular or sloping under, 
win prevent them from invading such a field during their march 
^n 0rn U an 5 th P r re & lon - When they are collecting in the ditch they 
d f st ™yed by covering them with earth or by pouring 
ln the ditch, by burning straw over them, or by 
them with rollers. Where the soil is sandy, so that a 
dl ^° b cannot be made with a vertical side, dig it deeper and 
make the side as perpendicular as possible, so that when the 












































5 


DEPARTMENT VI. 


! I] ( \ 

PxSI >' 



worms attempt to crawl up the sand will crumble beneath their 
feet and they will fall back into the ditch. 

Bark lace.— Proper pruning of the branches, draining the 
land about the trees, manuring the soil and keeping it free from 
grass or weeds, have the effect of insuring vigorous growth, and 
are thus useful in preventing depredations. To kill the lice use 
strong lye made from wood ashes, a solution of caustic soda of 
potash, diluted soft soap, or a mixture of lime whitewash and 
kerosene oil. If the latter is employed, the proportions should 
be 1 pint of kerosene to 1 gallon of whitewash. Whatever sub¬ 
stances are chosen they should be used thoroughly, and a second 
application should be made some days after the first to insure 
complete destruction of the insects. 

Borers.— Flat Head Apple Tree.— The larva of a dark 
green beetle, and is pale yellow in color. The egg is deposited 
under the loose bark of the tree, from whence the young ones 
bore into the tree. The presence of the young borer is usually 
indicated by a discolored spot, a cracking of the bark, or the 
presence of sawdust on the outside of the tree. To destroy them 
wash the tree with strong soap suds during the spring or early 
summer. 

Blackberry - Bush.— A small, slender, red-necked beetle occa¬ 
sionally found eating out the pith of the blackberry stalks, but 
is not common. The beetle, which is the parent of the borer, is 
about half an inch long, black, rusty yellow on the breast and on 
top of the thorax. It lays its eggs early in August on the stems, 
generally at the base of a leaf. The grub penetrates the stem, 
eating out the pith, causing the young canes to wither. The in¬ 
fested canes should be pruned off in the fall and burned. 

Currant —These are whitish with brown head and legs, and 
bore into the stems of currant bushes. The moth is blue-black 
with yellow on the tips of the fore wings. All infected stems 
should be cut and burned. 

Ball Worm.— Color varying from pale green to light brown, 
striped longitudinally with darker stripes of the same color. It 
is from % to 1*4 inches in length. The moth is pale yellow or 
shining ash color. It feeds on green corn in the north, and in 
the south is found on the tips of cotton plants. The only remedy 
for corn is to plant it early enough so that it will begin to ripen 
upon the appearance of the worm. To destroy them in cotton 
fields: 1. As the moth makes its excursions only after sunset, 
large numbers of them may be destroyed by building fires on the 
borders of the field. They will be attracted by the light and be 
burned. 2. Take bottles filled with coal oil and supplied with 
wicks; place them on sticks higher than the growing cotton, 
with one end stuck in the ground at regular distances apart; 
light them, and the moths will be prevented from laying their 
eggs. The lamps should be used as long as it is deemed neces¬ 
sary. 

Cinch Bug'.— A small insect less than M ihch long; color 





Oi- 


/IF: 













































DEPARTMENT VI. 


&u4 



I 


black and dirty white; body black, covered with a grayish down 
scarcely visible; legs, dark yellow. It attacks wheat, corn and 
oats. Irrigation is the most effective method of destroying 
them, but where this is not possible burn over the infested fields* 
in winter. In timbered sections the leaves should be burned and 
tha fence corners cleared out and burned. The practice of plow¬ 
ing land for spring grain the preceding autum, or if plowed in 
tha spring, rolling it repeatedly wita a heavy roller after seed¬ 
ing. is thought to possess advantages for fields invaded by 
them. The female bug has to work her way under ground in 
the spring to deposit her eggs at the roots, where she lays them, 
and the looser the soil the greater the facilities offered her for 
the operation. An emulsion of coal oil and milk will destoy 
them. The emulsion may be made with soap suds equally well; 
1 pound of soap to 10 gallons of water, equal quantities of suds 
and coal oil being taken. If then this emulsion be diluted by an 
additional quantity of suds, or even of clear water, so that there 
will be 1 part oil to 19 parts water, the liquid will not injure 
grain. , 


_ Colorado Beetle or Potato Bug*. —Body cream colored; 
o black stripes upon each wing case; wings rose color. Both 
the larva and the perfect beetle prey upon the potato plant. 1. 
A few pounds of carbonate of lime. Paris green or London pur¬ 
ple dusted from a dredging box, will kill them. 2. Put U bushel 
dry mandrake root in a barrel; fill with water and let it stand 
for two days, stirring now and then; strain the liquid through a 
cloth into a garden sprinkler; sprinkle toward sunset upon 
those plants on which the young brood hatch before they scatter 
to adjacent plants. 


Corn Moth.— A moth injurious to grain laid up in bins. The 
perfect insect or moth measures from the head to the tip of the 
fr , om 6 to 7 lines; the body is brown, with a little white on 
the back; the head has a thick tuft of whitish hairs; black eyes; 
upper wings more or less white with brownish and dusky dots, 
varying in size and form. This insect appears as a moth in May] 
June and July in buildings where grain is stored. It rests in 
the day time, flying only at night, when it attacks wheat, rye, 
barley and oats. To destroy them fill up the cracks and holes; 
sprinkle the floor with a mixture of strong white wine vinegar 
and salt before laying up the corn, sweeping the floor and walls 
well before storage, and if the moth has laid her eggs on the 
gram common salt may be mixed with it. 

Cotton Army Worm.— Color, green; 2 black stripes on the 
back, and sprinkled with black dots along a yellowish sub-dorsal 
line. This worm is furnished with 6 fore, 8 middle and 2 hind 
lessor feet, the two first of the middle being imperfect small 
and apparently useless for purposes of progression, which is 
effected by alternately stretching out the body and again con- 
tt acting it in the form of an arch. When touched, the worms 
double themselves up and spring to a distance many times their 
length; but if undisturbed, when not feeding, they rest on the 






















































DEPARTMENT VI. 


305 


leaf with the forepart of the body elevated and slightly curved, 
sometimes varied by a sidelong swinging motion. They appear 
from June to September, and may be destroyed as follows; 1. 
Dissolve % of a pound of London purple in 40 gallons of water 
and apply to the under part of the foliage, where the poison will 
not be washed off by the rain. Paris green in like proportions 
will have the same effect, and if applied to the bottom of the 
leaves while the worms are in their infancy, will effectually de¬ 
stroy them. 2. Add to 5 gallons of water 5 pounds of arsenic 
and 1 pound of soda; boil until the arsenic is dissolved. This 
makes a solution of arsenic that will keep for any length of time 
without depreciation. Put 1 quart of this in 40 gallons of water 
and sprinkle over an infested field. 3. Kerosene and other oils 
mixed with fresh or spoiled milk, and applied to the leaves will 
effectually destroy the eggs. The emulsion should be diluted 
with water. 

Caterpillars.— Bush— The ordinary mode of disposing of 
this pest is to shake the bushes and collect the caterpillars. 
Hellebore powder and fox-glove are good destroyers. The latter 
is made into a strong tea by boilmg it in water; water or 
syringe the bushes with this. As a preventative measure open 
a trench 1 foot in depth at the extremity of the roots, and then 
scrape or shovel the surface soil from over the roots for nearly 
3 inches in depth into the trench in the hopes of burying and de¬ 
stroying the chyrsalis: the paring of soil should be well tramped 
down, and the occasion maybe utilized for manuring the roots 
in the circle or line excavated; salt and soot might be used to 
cover the parings before tramping them down, or other strong 
materials which are at once fatal to insect life and a manure 
to the bushes. 

Apple Tree— Forms large cobweb-like nests in the forks of 
the limbs of apple and cherry trees during May. Destroy the 
nest and worms by pressing into the fork of the limb with a 
rough stick until the nest and worms are ground to pieces. 

Grain Weevil.— The true wheat or grain weevil is a slender 
beetle about one-eighth of an inch long, and preys upon all kinds 
of grain in the bin and the corn crib. The insect being quite 
small is liable to be overlooked, particularly in a dark bin. Its 
mode of operation consists in piercing minute holes in the grain 
kernel and depositing its eggs therein; from these are hatched 
out small maggots that eat the heart out of the grain. In due 
time these grubs undergo transformation and come out of the 
hulls in the beetle state to lay their eggs for another brood. 
When possible avoid storing grain in bins that have been in¬ 
fected. When it is inconvenient to change the place of storage, 
fumigate the granary thoroughly with burning sulphur. Fumi¬ 
gation should not only be done before the grain is placed in bins., 
but repeated in the course of one or two months after it has been 
stored. The larva of the weevils that are in the grain may be 
destroyed by heating the grain when one has ovens or kilns at 
hand for the purpose. Scattering lime among stored grain may 


















































DEPARTMENT VI 


be practiced, if care is taken to remove it when the grain is 
taken out for use. Running it through a fanning mill will, if 
the grain is dry, blow out the dry lime. Grain that is stored in 
a cool place, if' well ventilated and frequently moved, is said to 
be exempt from attacks. 

Hessian Fly. —Tawny or black body, with pale brown or red 
eyes and black feet: wings blackish or tawny. It deposits its 
eggs on the young wheat plant at the first joint or crown; mag¬ 
gots are hatched, which work between the leaf and the stalk, 
live on the sap, and destroy the plant. If the fly is present burn 
over the stubble as soon as possible after the wheat is cut; thresh 
out the wheat before stacking and before it enters the sweating 
stage; then scatter tne straw over the stubble and burn as thor¬ 
oughly as possible, and follow after with the plow. Another 
way of destroying them is to turn the horses and cattle in on the 
young wheat when the ground is frozen and let them graze it 
close to the ground. Quicklime strewed over the field immedi¬ 
ately after the grain is cut will destroy the pupae. If an attack 
of the fly is threatening, delay the time of sowing. 

Strawberry Worm.— A yellowish larva of a black fly. They 
feed on strawberry leaves and blossoms. 1. Poultry will destroy 
them if turned into the patch before the berries are formed. 2. 
Sprinkle the plants with 1 pound of white hellebore to 20 gallons 
of water. 

Tobacco Worm.-The larva of a large moth which is very 
destructive to the leaf of the tobacco plant by eating holes in 
the leaves, thus spoiling them for wrappers for cigars, and when 
old by devouring the whole of the leaf. These worms appear in 
all sizes during late summer and autumn. The egg is deposited 
singly on the leaf of the tobacco or tomato plant, and the young 
worm when first hatched out by the heat of the sun, commences 
to eat holes in the leaf, aud sheds its skin several times before 
attaining its full size; it then goes into the earth and the pupae 
are formed in a subterranean cell, the late broods remaining as 
pupae all winter and coming out as perfect moths the next 
spring. There are several parasites, and one in particular, that 
are very useful in destroying the potato and tobacco worms. It 
is a minute four-winged fly which deposits its eggs in the cater¬ 
pillar and eventually kills it. The eggs of this parasite to the 
number of 100 or more are laid in the back and sides of the 
worm in small punctures made by the ovipositor of the fly. The 
simplest and best way of disposing of the tobacco worms is to 
pull their heads off as quickly as possible. This naturally neces¬ 
sitates search. 












































DEPARTMENT VII 




GENERAL MISCELLANY. 


In this department will be found a little bit of everything— 
recipes and formulas unclassified, but of great value and useful* 
ness. It will pay you to read through carefully. 

A Oelatlne Mold for Casting Plaster Paris Orna- 
ments.— Allow 12 ounces of gelatine to soak for a few hours in 
water until it has absorbed as much as it can, then apply heat 
*ywMch it will liquify If the mold is required to be elastic’ 
add 3 ounces of treacle, and mix well with the gelatine. If a 
little chrome alum (precise proportions are immaterial) be added 
to the gelatine, it causes it to lose its property of being again 
dissolved m water. A saturated solution of bichromate of not- 
ash brushed over the surface of the mold, allowed to become dry 
and afterward exposed to sunlight for a few minutes, renders 
the surface so hard as to be unaffected by moisture. 


Art of Etching- on Copper.— Having obtained a piece of 
fine copper, which will be well polished, make a mixture of bees¬ 
wax and a small quantity of resin; melt these together, and 
when thoroughly incorporated by stirring, take a camel’s hair 
prash and cover the plate, which must previously be warmed by 
the fire, with an even coating of the mixture. When the mix¬ 
ture becomes hardened upon the plate, sketch the desired object 
on the surface, then take an etching point—a large needle fixed 
in a handle will do and cut through the wax to the surface of 
nflP c ?PP er > taking care to make the lines as distinct as possible, 
"his being done, raise a border of wax all around the plate, then 
pour strong nitric acid on the plate to the depth of an inch. The 
acid will eat away the copper in those places which have been 
bared by the etching point. From time to time pour off the acid, 
and wash the plate to see how the work is going on. Stop up 
with wax those places that appear to be etched deep enough, 
pour acid upon the others, and let it remain until the process is 
completed. This done, melt off the wax, clean the plate, and 
the etching is ready for the press. This is an employment from 
which a good remuneration may be derived. 


Celluloid, To Make.— A roll of paper is slowly unwound. 

307 



























































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and at tlie same time saturated with a mixture of 5 parts sul¬ 
phuric acid and 2 of nitric , which falls upon the paper in a tine 
spray. This changes the cellulose of the paper into fine pyroxy- 
line (gum cotton). The excess of acid haviug been expelled by 
pressure, the paper is washed with water until all traces of acid 
have been removed, it is then reduced to a pulp and placed into 
a bleaching trough. Most of the water having been got rid of 
by a strainer, the pulp is mixed with from 20 to 40 per cent of its 
weight of camphor and the mixture triturated under mill stones. 
Coloring matter having been added in the form of powder, a 
second mixture and grinding follows. The pulp is then laid out 
in layers and slabs, and from 20 to 25 layers are placed in a hy¬ 
draulic press, separated from one another by sheets of blotting 
paper, and subjected to a pressure of 140 atmospheres until all 
traces of moisture have been got rid of. The plates obtained are 
broken up and soaked for 24 hours in alcohol, the matter then 
passed between rollers heated to from 140° to 150 o Fahr., from 
whence it issues in the form of sheets. Celluloid is a most use¬ 
ful article, being made to imitate amber, tortoise shell and many 
other substances and is utilized for an almost iunumerable num¬ 
ber of purposes. 

Copying 1 Pad for Taking Transfers of Writing.— 

White gelatine 4 ounces, water 8 ounces, glycerine 8 ounces, gum 
dextrine 2 ounces. Always use these same proportions for any 
amount. Melt the gelatine in the water at a gentle heat, add to 
it the glycerine, in which the gum dextrine has been thoroughly 
incorporated, Now stir all together, until thoroughly mixed, 
and then pour into pans of the desired size, to the depth of V% 
inch. 

Recipe for Ink to be Used. —Violet analine 40 grains, gum 
arabic 12 grains, alcohol )4 ounce, water 14 ounce; dissolve the 
gum in the water and alcohol, then add the analine. Shake in a 
bottle from time to time, until the analine is dissolved. 

.To Work the Copying Pad.— Write with the ink on any good 
paper, press the written surface on the pad, and allow it to re¬ 
main two minutes; then take off and the writing will remain, 
from which impressions may be taken by laying on plain paper 
and smoothing with the hand. As soon as the last impression is 
taken, be sure and wash off with a wet sponge. 

Cottolene, Cottosuet, Vegetole, etc.. To Make. —This 

fine combination, known by many names, is coming into great 
favor among bakers, housekeepers, cooks, and all who use lard. 
It is purer, better and cheaper. This formula has never been 
printed before, and a trial will prove its intrinsic worth. Cotton 
oil 60 pounds, oleostearine 40 pounds, makes cottolene. 100 
pounds. Do not bleach or refine stock; the color should be yel¬ 
low. Melt together at about 1800 Fahr.; do not go above that. 
No Fuller’s earth or other refining stock must be used. After it 
is well mixed and heated, run through a filter, then into cans. 

Cigars, To Flavor.— 1. Ordinaiy cheap cigars may be 


JumTlf 


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TTimTfmTT 















































GENERAL MISCELLANY 


309 


flavored or scented by moistening with a strong tincture of cas¬ 
carilla to which a little gum benzoin and storax is added, or 
the leaves which are to form the cigars may be soaked for a 
short time in a strong infusion of cascarilla and then dried by a 
gentle heat. A small quantity of camphor together with oils of 
cassia and cloves is sometimes added to the above. 2. Insert 
very small shreds of cascarilla bark between the leaves of the 
cigar, or in small slits made for the purpose. 3. The poorest 
cigars can be finely flavored by standing them, open end down in 
a vessel containing a sufficient quantity of port wine to cover 
them about 1 inch: 24 hours is the time they should be left in 
the wine. The tobacco absorbs the wine and imparts the flavor. 

' Cork, To Prepare for Bottles.— Before being made into 
stoppers the cork is charred on each side. It is readily cut, and 
is obtainable in sheets and squares, which can be flattened by 
the aid of moisture and pressure. or bent with that of heat and 
pressure. The knife for cutting should be broad in the blade, 
and kept sharp; cork dulls the sharpest knife very sooth There 
are two kinds of cork, the white , which is smooth grained, and 
the darker or rough grained. If you have a batch of -imperfect 
corks, dip them into a mixture of two-thirds virgin wax and 
one-third beef suet. Corks prepared with this mixture require 
no squeezing before putting in the mouth of the bottle. They 
are air-tight and durable. 

Cotton Duck, To Make Mildew Proof.— Saturate the 
cloth in a hot solution of soap pound to 1 gallon of water; 
wring out and digest 12 hours or more in a solution of pound 
alum to 1 gallon of water. 

Everlasting; Fence Posts.— I discovered many years ago 
that wood could be made to last longer than iron in the ground, 
but thought the process so simple and inexpensive that it was 
not worth while to make any stir about it. I would as soon have 
poplar, basswood, or quaking ash as any other timber for fence 
posts. I have taken out basswood posts after having been set 
seven years, which were as sound when taken out as when they 
were first put in the ground. Time and weather seem to have 
no effect on them. The posts can be prepared for less than two 
cents apiece. This is the recipe: Take boiled linseed oil and stir 
in it pulverized charcoal to the consistency of paint. Put a coat 
of this over the timber, and there is not a man that will live to 
see it rotten. 

Eggs, To Preserve.— Get a water-tight barrel. To a pail- 
'ul of water add 2 pints of fresh slacked lime and 1 pint of com¬ 
mon salt. Pill the barrel half full of this fluid, place your eggs 
down in it any time after June, and they will keep two years if 
desired. This is reliable. 

Blass, To Etch Upon.— Procure several thick, clear pieces 
or crown glass, and immerse them in melted wax, so that each 
may receive a complete coating, or pour over them a solution of 
wax in benzine When perfectly cold, draw on them with a fine 





















































310 


DEPARTMENT VII. 


steel point, flowers, trees, houses, portraits, etc. Whatever parts 
of the drawings are intended to be corroded with the acid should 
be perfectly free from the least particle of wax. When all these 
drawings are finished, the pieces of glass must be immersed one 
by one in a square leaden box or receiver, where they are to be 
submitted to the action of hydrochloric acid gas. made by acting 
on powdered flor-spar by concentrated sulphuric acid. When 
the glasses are sufficiently corroded, they are to be taken out, 
and the wax is to be removed by first dipping them in warm and 
then in hot water, or by washing with turpentine or benzine. 
Various colors may be applied to the corroded parts of the glass, 
whereby a fine painting may be executed. In the same manner 
sentences and initials of names may be etched on wine glasses, 
tumblers, etc. 

Glass, To Cut or Break in Any Shape.— If you have no 
glazier’s diamond or the common round steel wheel (which can 
be obtained at almost any first-class hardware store) the follow¬ 
ing methods may be adopted, and will be found effectual if care¬ 
fully used: 1. File a notch on the edge of the glass at the point 
you wish to start the break from: then put a suitably shaped 
red-hot iron upon the notch, and draw slowly in the direction 
you wish. A crack will follow the iron caused by the heat, if not 
drawn too fast. 2. Glass may be easily cut with scissors by 
keeping it level under water while the scissors are being applied. 
To avoid risk, begin the cutting by taking off small pieces at the 
corners and along the edges, and so reduce the shape into that 
required, as if any attempt is made to cut the glass all at once 
into the shape it will most likely break just where it is not 
wanted. Some kinds of glass will cut much better than others, 
the softer glass being the best for this purpose. The scissors 
need not be sharp, as their action does not appear to depend on 
the state of the edge applied to the glass. When the operation 
gpes on well, the glass breaks away from the scissors in small 
pieces in a straight line. 3. To cut glass vessels in a neat man¬ 
ner heat a rod of iron to redness, and having filled the vessel the 
exact height you wish it to be cut, with oil of any kind, gradu¬ 
ally dip the red-hot iron into the oil, which heating along the 
surface, the glass chips and cracks right around, when you can 
lift off the upper portion clean. 4. (Bottles.) Turn the bottle as 
evenly as possible over a low gas or lamp light flame for about 
ten minutes, then place in water, and the sudden cooling will 
cause a reerular crack to encircle the bottle at the heated place. 

'Glass, To Bore Holes In.— Any hard steel tool will cut 
glass with great facility when kept freely wet with camphor dis¬ 
solved in turpentine. A drill bow may be used, or even the hand 
alone. A hole bored may be readily enlarged by a round file. 
The ragged edges of glass vessels may also be thus easily 
smoothed by a fiat file. Flat window glass can readily be sawn 
by a watch spring saw by the aid of this solution.' In short, the 
Host brittle glass can be wrought almost c-s easily as brass by 


GENERAL MISCELLANY 311 

the use of cutting tools kept constantly inoist with camphorized 
oil of turpentine. 

Ground Glass, Imitation Of. —Paint the glass with the 
following varnishes; Sandarach 18 drains, mastic 4 drams, 
ether 24 drams, benzine 6 to 18 ounces. The more benzine the 
coarser the grain of imitation glass will be. 

Glass, Pencils for Writing 1 On. —The colors are mixed 
with the fats in warmed vessels, levigated with the same, and 
are then allowed to cool until they have acquired proper con¬ 
sistency for being transferred to the presses. In these the mass 
is treated and shaped similarly as the graphite in the presses for 
ordinary pencils. (See Pencils, Blacklead.) 

Black.— Lampblack 10 parts, white wax 40 parts, tallow 10 
parts. 

Blue, Dark.—P russian blue 15 parts, gum arabic 5 parts, tal- 
xow 10 parts. 

Blue. Light.— Prussian blue 10 parts, white wax 20 parts, 
tallow 10 parts. 

White. —Zinc white 40 parts, white wax 20 parts, tallow, 10 
parts. 

Yellow.— Chrome yeliow 10 parts, yellow wax 20 parts, tal¬ 
low 10 parts. 

Glass, To Powder.— Make a piece of glass red hot and 
plunge it into cold water; it will immediately break into powder. 
This must be sifted and dried; it is then fit for making sand¬ 
paper, for filtering varnishes and for other purposes. 

Glass, Prince Rupert's Props. —These are made by let¬ 
ting drops of melted glass fall into cold water. The drops as¬ 
sume an oval form, with the tail or neck resembling a retort. 
They possess this singular property, that if a small portion oi 
the tail is broken off the whole bursts into powder, with an ex¬ 
plosion, and a shock is communicated to the hand that grasps it. 

Horn, To Weld.— Pieces of horn may be joined by heating 
the edges until they are soft, and pressing together until cold. " 

Ice, Artificial.— Take 4 parts niti-ic acid, 6 parts nitrate 
ammonia and 9 parts phosphate of soda. Having first prepared 
a vessel of galvanized iron 4 inches wide, 24 inches long and 12 
inches deep, have it a little wider at the top than at the bottom, 
now make another vessel 8 inches wide, 28 inches long and 14 
inches high. Put the small vessel inside the larger one, fill the 
small one nearly full of as cool water as you can procure, put 
the freezing mixture in the large vessel around the smaller one, 
set this in as cool a place as possible. If you will have a faucet 
at the lower edge of the large vessel and first fill the large vessel 
with the following it will greatly assist in freezing: Equal parts 
of sal ammonia and nitre dissolved in its own weight of water. 
In ten or fifteen minutes pour this off and put in the freezing 
mixture. 

Note.—I have used the above description of a T_ essel to give 





























































312 


DEPARTMENT VII. 



you an idea of how to operate. Any sized vessel made in the 
same proportion will work as well. 

Ivory, Artificial.—1. Make a paste of isinglass, egg shell in 
powder and brandy. Give it the desired color and pour warm 
into oiled molds. Leave the paste in the molds until hard. 2. 
Dissolve'2 pounds of pure ind'ia rubber in 32 pounds of chloro¬ 
form, and saturate the solution with purified ammoniacal gas, 
then distill off at a temperature of 185 o Fahr., and mix the 
residue with pulverized phosphate of calcium or carbonate of 
zinc. Press into molds and cool. 

Ivory Black.— Burn waste shavings and waste pieces of 
ivory from the ivory turners, in a covered crucible, till no smoke 
issues; cover close while cooling; then wash with diluted hydro¬ 
chloric acid; then with water till no longer acid; dry and heat in 
a covered crucible. It is of a deeper color than bone black, and 
is used as a pigment, tooth powder and to decolorize syrups and 
other liquids. 

I\ r ory, To Make Transparent.— Cut ivory in pieces, 1-20 
inch, and place in phosphoric acid, specific gravity 1-131, until 
transparent; then take from the bath, wash in water and dry 
with a clean linen cloth; dry in the air without heat and soften 
under warm water. 

Kustitien’s Metal for Tinning'. —Malleable iron 1 pound, 
heat to whiteness; add 5 ounces regulus of antimony, and mo- 
lucca tin 24 pounds. 

Tinning Process.— The articles to be tinned are first cov¬ 
ered with dilute sulphuric acid, and when quite clean are placed 
in warm water, then dipped in a solution of muriatic acid, cop¬ 
per and zinc, and then plunged into a tin bath to which a small 
quantity of zinc has been added. When the tinning is finished, 
the articles are taken out and plunged into boiling water. The 
operation is completed by placing them in a very warm sand 
bath. This last process softens the iron. 

Bard Compound.— Cotton oil 60 pounds, deodorized hog 
grease 20 pounds, tallow 10 pounds, oleostearine 10 pounds, for 
100 pounds lard compound. 

Leaf Photographs.— A very pretty amusement, especially 
for those who have just completed the study of botany, is the 
taking of leaf photographs. One very simple process is this: 
At any druggist's get an ounce of bichromate of potassium. Put 
this into a pint bottle of water. When the solution becomes 
saturated—that is, the water is dissolved as much as it will— 
pour off some of the clear liquid in a shallow dish: on this float 
a piece of ordinary writing paper till it is thoroughly moistened, 
let it dry in the dark. It should be a bright yellow. On this put 
the leaf, under it a piece of of black soft cloth and several sheets 
of newspaper. Put these between two pieces of glass (all the 
pieces should be of the same size), and with spring clothespins 
fasten them together. Expose to a bright sun, placing the leaf 
so that the rays will fall upon it as nearly perpendicular as pos- 














U: 




sible. In a few moments it will begin to turn brown; but it re¬ 
quires from half an hour to several hours to produce a perfect 
print. When it has become dark enough, take it from the frame 
and put it into clear water, which must be changed every few 
minutes until the yellow part becomes white. Sometimes the 
leaf veinings will be quite distinct. By following these direc-. 
tions, it is scarcely possible to fail, and a little practice will make 
perfect. 

Making- Blackboards.— The following directions for this 
work are given by an experienced superintendent: The first 
care must be to make the wall surface or boards to be blacked 
perfectly smooth. Fill all the holes and cracks with plaster of 
paris mixed with water; mix. but little at a time: press in and 
smooth down with a case knife. The cracks between shrunken 
boards mav be filled in the same way. Afterward use sandpaper. 
The ingredients needed for slating are liquid gum shellac, some¬ 
times called shellac varnish, and lampblack or drop black. Gum 
shellac is cut in alcohol, and the liquid can be obtained of any 
druggist. Pour some shellac into an open dish, and stir in lamp¬ 
black to make a heavy paint. With a clean brush, spread on any 
kind of surface but glass. Put on a little and test it. If it is glossy 
and the chalk slips over it reduce the mixture with alcohol. 
Alcohol can be bought of any druggist. If it rubs off, let the 
druggist put in more gum to make the liquid thicker. One quart, 
of the liquid and a five-cent paper of lampblack are sufficient to 
slate all the blackboards in any country school with two coats. 

Marble, Artificial.— Soak plaster of paris in a solution of 
alum, bake it in an oven, and then grind it to a powder. In 
using, mix it with water, and to pi-oduce the clouds and veins 
stir in any dry color you wish; this will become very hard, and 
is susceptible of a very high polish. 

Molds and Bies.— Copper, zinc and silver in equal propor¬ 
tions, melt together under a coat of powdered charcoal, and 
mold into the form you desire. Bring them to nearly a white 
heat, and lay on the thing you would take an impression of, 
press with sufficient force, and you will get a perfect and beauti¬ 
ful impression. / 

Molds of Glue and Molasses.— These flexible molds are 
such as Rogers uses for making his statuettes, and are prepared 
as follows: Glue 8 pounds, molasses (New Orleans) 7 pounds; 
soak the glue over night in a small quantity of cold water, then 
melt it by heat over a salt water bath, stir until froth begins to 
rise, then add and stir in briskly the molasses previously heated. 
Continue to heat and stir the mixture for about half an hour 
and then pour. (See “A Gelatine Mold,” Department VI.) 

Muriate of Tin. Tin Liquor.— If druggists keep it, it is 
best to purchase of them already made, but if you prefer, pro¬ 
ceed as follows: Get at a tinner’s shop block tin, put it into a 
shovel and melt it. After it is melted, pour it from the height of 

*>r 5 feet into a pail of clear water The object of this is to have 


>lr 


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' 


G—\) 







































































314 


DEPARTMENT VII. 



the tin in small particles, so that the acid can dissolve it. Take 
it out of the water and dry it; then pour it in a strong glass 
bottle. Pour over it muriatic acid 12 ounces, then slowly add 
sulphuric acid 8 ounces. The acid should be added about a 
tablespoonful at a time, at intervals of 5 or 8 minutes, for if you 
add it too rapidly you run the risk of breaking the bottle by heat. 
After you have all the acid in. let the bottle stand until the ebul¬ 
lition subsides; then stop it up with beeswax or a glass stopper, 
and set it away, and it will keep good for a year or more, or it 
will be fit for use in 24 hours. 

Matches, Parlor.— Chlorate of potash (separately powdered) 
6 drams, vermilion 1 dram, lycopodium 1 dram, fine flour 2 
drams; mix carefully the chlorate with the flour and lycopo¬ 
dium. avoiding friction; then add the vermilion and mix the 
whole with a mucilage made with 1 dram powdered um arabic. 
10 grains gum tragacanth, 2 drams flour, 4 ounces hot water; 
mix, and add sufficient water to bring to a proper ponsistency 
and dip the sticks previously prepared by dipping in a solution 
of 1 ounce of gum thus, Y z ounce of camphor and 6 ounces oil of 
turpentine. 

Matches, Safety.— Chloride of potash 4 to 6 parts, bichro¬ 
mate of potash 2 parts, ferric oxide 2 parts, strong glue 3 parts: 
mix thoroughly and use in the usual manner. Matches made by 
this method will not ignite on sandpaper or by ordinary means, 
but require a surface especially prepared for them as follows: 
Sulphide of antimony 20 parts, bichromate of potash 2 to 4 
parts; oxide of iron, lead or manganese 4 to 6 parts; glass 
powder 2 parts, strong glue or gum 2 to 3 parts. This prepara¬ 
tion is spread like paint in a warm condition on suitable paper, 
which is fastened on the boxes containing the matches. 

Oleomargarine Manufacture.— The process by which 
suet is converted into the substance called oleomargarine, is as 
follows; The crude suet, after being washed in cold water, is 
“rendered” melted, and then drawn off into movable tanks. The 
hard substance is subjected to a hydraulic pressure of of 350 
tons, and the oil extracted. The butter is made from the oil 
thus obtained, while the hard substance remaining is disposed 
of as stearine. The oil being carried off into churns, is mixed 
with milk and from 3 to 5 per cent of dairy butter. It is then 
drawn off into a consistent form, and cooled with broken ice. 
The latter is soon removed, and the butter worked up with a 
small portiomof salt. When this is done, the article is ready for 
packing and consumption. 


Pencils, Blacklead .— 1 The easiest way of making not only 
black but all other pencils, is by the following process: Take 
white or pipe clay, put it into a tub of clean water, soak 12 
hours, then agitate until it resembles milk; let it rest 2 or 3 
minutes and pour off the supernatant milky liquor into a second 
vessel. Allow it to settle, pour off the clear, dry the residue on a 
filter; then add blacklead sufficient. Powder it and calcine it at 







































GENERAL MISCELLANY 


315 


a white heat in a loosely covered crucible, cool and carefully re- 
pulverize, then add prepared clay and prepared plumbago equal 
parts, water to mix. Make into a paste and put in oiled molds 
of the size required; dry gradually and apply sufficient heat to 
give the required hardness; then take from the molds (carefully) 
and place in the grooves of the wood prepared to receive it The 
more clay and heat employed, the harder the crayon. The shade 
of black may be varied in the same way. Each mold must be 
made of 4 pieces of wood nicely fitted together. 


Pencils, Indelible.- Buy a genuine No. 1 Faber pencil 
prepare the label (cedar is the best material) and on the part vou 
wish to write rub a little linseed oil, and write before it gets drv 
This writing will remain indelible for years. If a little japan 
varnish is added to the oil it is better; a little white lead mrffit 
be used in the oil, but is not absolutely necessary. 

Pencil Writing 1 , To Fix.— Pencil writing may be fixed 
almost as indelible as ink by passing the moistened tongue over 
it. Even breathing over the lines after writing will render them 
less liable to erasure. Brushing the wTiting or a drawing with 
skim milk will also act in the same manner. 


Patent Lubricating Oil.— Water 1 gallon, clean tallow 3 
pounds, palm oil 10 pounds, common soda V% pound; heat the 
mixture to about 2100 Fahr.; stir well till it cools down to 70 o 
Fahr., when it is fit for use. 


Powder for Cleaning and Polishing Tin, Brittainia, 
and Brassware- Take y 2 pound ground pumice-stone and M 
pound red chalk; mix them evenly together. This is for tin and 
brass. For silver and tinware, take y 2 pound red chalk and U 
pound pumice-stone, mix very evenly; use these articles dry 
with a piece of wash leather. It is one of the best cleaning pow¬ 
ders ever invented and very valuable. 

Rubber, Artificial.— A cheap and useful substitute for 
india rubber is prepared by mixing a thick solution of glue with 
tungstate of soda and hydrochloric acid. A comoound of tung¬ 
stic acid and glue is precipitated, which at a temperature of 86 
to 104 0 Fahr. is sufficiently elastic to admit of being drawn out 
into very thin sheets. On cooling, this mass becomes solid and 
brittle, but on being heated is again soft and plastic. This new 
compound can be used for many of the purposes to which rubber 
is adapted. 

Rubber Hand Stamps.— Set up the desired name and ad¬ 
dress in common type, oil the type, and place a guard about y 2 
inch high around the form. Now mix plaster of paris to the de¬ 
sired consistency, pour in and allow it to set. Have your vuB 
canized rubber all ready, as made in long strips 3 inches wide 
and y 8 of an inch thick, cut off the size of the intended stamp 
Remove the plaster cast from the type, and place both the cast 
and the rubber in a screw press, applying sufficient heat to thor¬ 
oughly soften the rubber, then turn down the screw hard, and 
let it remain until the rubber receives the exact impression oi 
































































CwL 




31G 


DEPARTMENT VII. 




Of 


the cast and becomes cold, when it is removed, neatly trimmed 
with a sharp knife, and cemented to the handle, ready for use. 


Rubber Stamps for Photographs.— Many photograph¬ 
ers employ a rubber stamp for imprinting the backs of mounts, 
and in these circumstances a good ink is very essential. Here 
is the recipe for making one, quoted from the Engineer, and said 
to yield an excellent ink. which, while not drying on the pad, 
will yet not readily smear when impressed upon paper: Aniline 
red (violet) 180 grains, distilled water 2 ounces, glycerine 1 tea¬ 
spoonful, treacle 14 teaspoonful. The crystals of aniline are 
powdered and dissolved in the boiling distilled water, and the 
other ingredients then added. 


Rubber, To IMssolve.— 1. A mixture of 6 parts absolute 
alcohol, with 110 parts sulphate of carbon; the latter is the real 
solvent; the alcohol has an indirect action. The quantity of 
solvent required depends on the consistency of solution re¬ 
quired. If moderate heat is used and the mixture shaken, the 
whole dissolves, but a better solution is obtained for adhesive 
properties by using a large quantity of solvent, not shaking but 
drawing off the clear, glazy liquid. 2. For a small quantity 
place 1 fluid dram sulphuric acid and the same quantity of 
water in a vial and shake together. Great heat is evolved. Al¬ 
low to stand till cool, then add 2 fluid ounces spirits of turpen¬ 
tine. and shake well. Great heat will again be the result, and 
the color changed to a deep cinnamon; allow to stand 24 hours, 
after which a strong dark sediment will have formed at the bot¬ 
tom of the bottle; pour off the dear into another bottle, and add 
1*4 drams (apothicaries weight) common india rubber cut into 
shreds and then place it, uncorked, over a gentle heat and boil 
slowly 5 hours. At the end of that time the rubber should be 
dissolved. It can be concentrated by longer boiling, or thinned 
by the addition of turpentine. (See ‘-Rubber Cements in Glues , 
Cements , etc.) 


Rubber, To Restore Elasticity Of.—Immerse the article 

in a mixture of water of ammonia 1 part and water 2 parts for a 
time varying from a few minutes to 1 hour, according to the 
circumstances. When the mixture has acted on the rubber it 
will be found to have recovered its elasticity, smoothness and 
softness. 


Rubber Hose, Composition For. —Grind together Java 
rubber 20 pounds, para rubber 10 pounds, white lead 14 pounds, 
red lead 14 pounds, yellow sulphur 114 pounds; spread on flax 
cloth which weighs 10-16 and 32 ounces to the square yard. 


Rubber Hose, To Repair.— Cut the hose apart where it is 
defective, obtain from any gasfitter a piece of iron pipe 2 or 3 
inches long, twist the hose over it until the ends meet, wrap with 
strong twine well waxed, and it will last a long time. 


L - 


Rubber, To Preserve.— To keep rubber from cracking use 
a mixture of 1 part water of ammonia and 2 parts water, in 




L# 


;> 


Uf\V_9 

\\ V \ 

WjA 



























































GENERAL MISCELLANY 317 

which the articles should be immersed until they assume their 
former elasticity, smoothness and softness. 

Stencil Cutting’.— Take a thin copper or brass plate, lay 
flat on the side, then take a sharp edged steel, write thereon the 
same as common writing, but press sufficiently hard to cut 
through the plate. To mark, lay the plate thus cut upon the 
cloth, and apply ink by means of a brush to the back of the 
plate, and it will wet the cloth where the cut is made by the 
writing. A little practice will enable a person to cut beauti¬ 
fully. There is money to be made at this. Some make $10 a day. 

Tobacco, To Flavor.— This is done by means of a mixture 
of 1 part each of lemon:peel, orange peel, figs, coriander seed 
and sassafrass, % part each of elder flowers, elder berries and 
cinnamon, 2 parts saltpeter, 3 parts salt and 4 parts sugar. 
This mixture must be digested in 50 parts water, and before ap¬ 
plying it flavored with an alcoholic solution of gum benzoin, 
mastic and myrrh. This decoction gives a flavor to common 
leaves resembling Porto Rico, but to this end the leaves must 
be well dried, about 1 year old and well permeated with the 
preparation; keep in a pile for 8 days, turning daily, and 
finally dry. 

Tobacco Pipes, To Clean. —Tobacco pipes may be thor¬ 
oughly cleaned and made sweet by pouring alcohol in the bowl 
and permitting it to run out of the stem. 

Tortoise Shell Imitation.— 1 . The appearance of tortoise 
shell may be given to horn by brushing it over with a paste of 2 
parts lime, 1 part litharge and a little soap lye, which is allowed 
to dry. This acts by forming sulphuret of lead with the sulphur 
contained in the albumen of the horn producing dark spots 
which contrast with the brighter color of the horn. 2. Mix an 
equal quantity of quick lime and red lead with soap lye, apply 
to the horn with a small brush in imitation of the mottle of tor¬ 
toise shell; when it is dry, repeat it 2 or 3 times. 3. Take a 
piece of lunar caustic, the size of a pea, grind with it water on a 
stone and mix with it sufficient gum arabic to make it cf a 
proper consistency. Apply with a bi’ush to the horn, in imita¬ 
tion of the veins of the shell. A little red lead mixed with it to 
give it a body is of advantage. It will stain the horn quite 
through without affecting its texture or body. Be careful when 
the horn is stained to let it soak some hours in water previous 
to finishing and polishing it. (For Polishing , See “Household 
Redyes.") 

To Take Fac-similes of Signatures.—' Write your name 
on a piece of paper, and while the ink is wet, sprinkle over it 
some finely powdered gum arabic, then make a rim around it, 
and pour on it some fusible alloy in a liquid state. Impressions 
may be taken from the plates formed in this way. by means of 
printing-ink and the copperplate press. 

To Transfer Prints, etc., to Glass.— Take of gum san- 
darach 4 ounces, mastic 1 ounce, Venice turpentine l ounce^ ul- 




































































318 


DEPARTMENT Vir. 


cohol 15 ounces. Digest in a bottle, frequently shaking, and it 
is ready for use. Directions: Use, if possible, good plate-glass 
of the size of the picture to be transfei'red, go over it with the 
above varnish, beginning at one side, press down the picture 
firmly and evenly as you proceed, so that no air can possibly 
lodge between; put aside, and let it dry perfectly, then moisten 
the paper cautiously with water, and remove it piecemeal by 
rubbing carefully with the fingers; if managed nicely, a com¬ 
plete transfer of the picture to the glass will be effected. 

To Clean Oil Painting's if Smoked, Dull, or Dirty.— 

Dissolve a little common salt with stale urine and a grated 
potato mixed in them; rub them over with a woolen cloth til j 
you think them clean, then with a sponge wash them over with 
clear water, then dry them, and rub them over with a clear 
cloth. 

To Whiten linseed Oil.— Shake up daily 2 ounces of lith¬ 
arge in a gallon of oil and 8 ounces of spirits of turpentine, foi 

15 days, afterwards let it settle 3 days. Pour off the clear part 
into a shallow vessel, and place it in the sun 3 days to whiten 
and clear it. 

To Core Damp W r alls.— Boil 2 ounces of grease with 2 
quarts of tar, for nearly 20 minutes, in an iron vessel, and hav¬ 
ing ready pounded glass 1 pound, slacked lime 2 pounds; well 
dried in an iron pot, and sifted through a flour sieve. Add 
some of the lime to the tar and glass, to make it the thickness of 
a thin paste sufficient to cover a square foot at a time, as it 
hardens so quick. Apply it about % inch thick. 

To Prepare Wood and Brick Work from Damp 
W f eather.— Take 3 pecks of lime slacked in the air, 2 pecks ol 
wood ashes, and 1 peck of fine sand. Sift them fine, and add lin¬ 
seed oil sufficient to use with a paint-brush; thin the first coat; 
\ise it as thick as it will work the second coat. Grind it fine or 
beat it in a trough, and it is a good composition. 

To Transfer Printed Matter, and Print From it 
Again.— Take your picture or print and soak it for a short 
time in a weak solution of caustic potash, then remove it care¬ 
fully, and let it dry on a sheet of clean paper. Then take a 
piece of copper, zinc or steel, which has previously been well 
cleaned, and dip it into hot white wax. Let the first coat set, 
;hen dip again. Having got the plate thoroughly coated and set, 
lay the matter to be transferred on the plate, and rub it gently 
all over on the back: now raise it up. and it will be transferred 
on to the wax on the plate. Now take needles of a different 
thickness, and scrawl all over the wax, following the lines of the 
engraving. Having got the picture all traced out, pour upon it 
some weak acid if you use zinc, which is too soft to print many 
from, therefore it is better to use copper or steel. If you use 
copper, make the following solution to pour over it: Verdigris 
4 parts, salt 4 part?,, sal ammonaic 4 parts, alum 1 part, water 

16 parts, sour vinegar 12 parts; dissolve by heat. For steel use 































































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pyroligneous acid 5 parts, alcohol l part, nitric acid 1 part: mix 
the first two. then add the nitric acid. Pouring the preparations 
over the plates where the traces of the pictures are, it will eat 
into the metal plate without affecting the wax. Let it staud till 
it has eaten a sufficient depth, then wash the plate with cold 
water, dry it, and place it near the fire till all the wax is melted 
off. You can now print as many as you please from the plate by 
rubbing on it printers’ ink, so as to fill all the fine spaces; which, 
when done, wipe it over smoothly with clean cloths to remove 
the superfluous ink which is on the face of the plate. Now take 
damp paper or card board, and press it on the plate, either wit h 
a copying press or the hand, and you get a fine impression, or as 
many as you want, by repeating the inking process. I would re¬ 
commend beginners to try their skill with valueless prints before 
attempting to make transfers of fine engravings, as the picture 
to be transferred is destroyed by the process. 

To Keep Tires Tight on Wheels. —Before putting on the 
tires fill the felloes with linseed oil, which is done by heating the 
oil in a trough to boiling heat, and keeping the wheel, with a 
stick through the hub, in the oil. for an hour. The wheel is 
turned round until every felloe is kept in the oil one hour. 

Unshrinkable Patterns.— The best mixture for small pat¬ 
terns, that does not shrink in casting is 69 parts lead, 15-1 parts 
antimony, 1514 parts bismuth, by weight. A cheap kind for 
finished patterns can be made of 10 parts zinc, 1 part antimony, 
1 part tin. 

Vomiting, To Stop.— Drink hot water. Just as hot as can 
be borne. 

Water Filter, To Make. —Take a deep flower pot and put 
a compressed sponge in the bottom; over the sponge put a layer 
of pebbles an inch thick; next an inch of coarse sand; next a 
layer of charcoal, and at the top another layer of pebbles. The 
water will filter pure and clear, through the hole in the bottom 
of the flower pot, into another vessel below, however impure 
previously. (See also ‘“Apparatus,” Department I.) 

Wax Flowers, To Make.— The following articles will be 
required to commence wax work: Two pounds white wax, \ 
pound hair wire, 1 bottle carmine, 1 ultramarine blue, 1 bottle 
chrome yellow. 2 bottles chrome green (No. 1), 2 bottles chrome 
green (No. 2), 1 bottle each of rose, pink, royal purple, scarlet 
powder, and balsam fir, 2 dozen sheets white wax. This will do 
to begin with. Now have a clean tin dish, and pour therein a 
quart or two of water; then put in about 1 pound of the white 
wax, and let it boil. When cool enough, so the bubbles will not 
form on top, it is ready to sheet, which is done as follows: Take 
half of a window pane, 7x9, and after having washed it clean 
dip into a dish containing weak soap suds; then dip into the wax, 
and draw out steadily, and plunge it into the suds, when the 
sheet will readily come off. Lay it on a cloth or clean paper to 
dry. Proceed in like manner until you have enough of the white; 






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320 


DEPARTMENT VII. 


then add enough of the green powder to make a bright color, and 
heat and stir thoroughly until the color is evenly distributed, 
then proceed as for sheeting white wax. The other colors are 
rubbed into the leaves after they are cut, rubbing light or heavy 
according to shade. 

Note.—F or patterns you can use any natural leaf, forming the 
creases in wax with the thumb nail or a needle. To put the 
flowers together, or the leaves on the stem, hold in the hand 
until warm enough to stick. If the sheeted wax is to be used in 
summer put in a little balsam of fir to make it hard. If for win¬ 
ter, none will be required. You can make many flowers without 
a teacher, but one to assist in the commencement would be a 
great help, though the most particular thing about it is to get 
the wax sheeted. The materials I have suggested can be pro¬ 
cured at any dru^ store, and will cost from $3 to $4.50. 

Wood, To Petrify.— Gem salt, rock alum, white vinegar, 
chalk and peebles powder, equal parts; mix together. If after 
the ebullition is over, you throw into this any wood or porous 
substance, it will petrify iu 




PECULIAR EXPERiriENTS. 

1. To apparently burn water, fill a glass lamp with water, and 
put into it for a wick a piece of gum camphor. The lamp should 
Qot be quite full, and the camphor may be left to float upon the 
surface of the water. On touching a lighted match to the cam¬ 
phor. up shoots a clear, steady flame, and seems to sink below 
the surface of the water so that the flame is surrounded by the 
liquid. It will burn a long time. If the camphor be ignited in a 
large dish of water it will commonly float about while burning. 

2 ; To change the faces of a group to a livid, deathly whiteness, 
and to destroy colors, wet a half teacupful of common salt in al¬ 
cohol and burn it on a plate in a dark room. Let the salt soak a 
few minutes before igniting. The flame will deaden the bright¬ 
est colors m the room, and the dresses of the company will seem 
to be changed. Let each one put his face behind the flame, and 

W nvL? r< i sen ^ a ghastly spectacle to those who stand before 
it. lhis is serviceable in a tableau where terror of death is to be 
represented. The change wrought by the flame, when the ma¬ 
terials are properly prepared, is very surprising. 

3. Wet a piece of thick wrapping paper, then dry near the 
stove. While dry. lay it down upon a varnished table or dry 
woolen cloth, and rub it briskly with a piece of India rubber It 
will soon become electrified, and if tossed against the wall or 
the looking-glass will stick sonie time. Tear tissue-paper into 
p lts i % ipch square, and this piece of electrified paper will draw 
them. Or take a tea-tray and put it on three tumblers. Lav the 
electric paper on it, and on touching the tray you will cet a 
little spark. Let the paper lay on the tray, and on touching the 





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$$9K1M4 M 

f' 






GENLkaL MISCELLANY 321 

tray again you will get another spark, but of the opposite kind 
of electricity. Replace the paper and you get another, and 
so on. 

4. To produce a spectrum, burn magnesium wire in a dark 
room, and as soon as the flame is extinguished, let each one try 
to look into the others’ faces. The spectrum of the extinguished 
light is clearly seen. 



HINTS ON PATENTS AND INVENTIONS. 

What to Invent.— Cheap, useful articles that will sell at 
sight. Something that every one needs, and the poorest can 
afford. Invent simple things for the benefit of the masses, and 
your fortune is made. Some years back a one-armed soldier 
amassed a fortune from a simple toy—a wooden ball attached to 
a rubber string. They cost scarcely anything, yet millions were 
sold at a good price. A German became enormously rich by 
patenting a simple wooden plug for beer barrels. What man 
has done, man can do.” 

How to Protect Your Invention.— Patent it. If you do 

not, others will reap the benefits that rightfully belong to you. 

A Patent Is a Protection given to secure the inventor in 
the profits arising from the manufacture and sale of an article 
of his own creation. 

To Whom Tetters Patent are Gran ted.— Section 4886 
of the Revised Statutes of the United States provides that; 

“Any person who has invented or discovered any new and use¬ 
ful art. machine, manufacture or composition of matter, or any 
new and useful improvement thereof, not known or used by 
others in this country, and not patented or described in any 
printed publication in this or any foreign country, before his in¬ 
vention or discovery thereof, and not in public use, or on sale 
for more than two years prior to his application, unless the same 
is proved to have been abandoned, may, upon the payment of the 
fees required by law, and other due proceedings had, obtain a 
patent therefor.” 

And section 4888 of the same statute enacts: 

Section 4888. “Before any inventor or discoverer shall receive 
a patent for his invention or discovery, he shall make applica¬ 
tion therefor, in writing, to the Commissioner of Patents, and 
shall file in the patent office a written description of the same, 
and of the manner and process of making, constructing, com¬ 
pounding and using it, in such full, clear, concise and exact 
terms, as to enable any person skilled in the art or science to 
which it appertains, or with which it is most nearly connected, 
to make, construct, compound, and use the same: and in case of 
a machine, he shall explain the principle thereof and the best 
mode in which he has contemplated applying that principle, so 



























































£ 



as to distinguish it from other inventions; and he shall particu¬ 
larly point out and distinctly claim the part, improvement and 
combination which he claims as his invention or discovery. The 
specification and claim shall be signed by the inventor, and at¬ 
tested by two witnesses.” 

It is also required by law that when ‘‘The case admits of draw¬ 
ings,” it shall be properly illustrated; and also, if the Commis¬ 
sioner requires it, that a model shall be furnished in cases cap¬ 
able of such demonstration. 

The cost of obtaining Letters Patent in ordinary cases is: First, 
Government fees, $15; counsel fees, including drawings, $25; 
second, or final Government fees, to be paid within six months 
from date of allowance, $20; total, $60. 

Designs.— A design patent can be obtained for novelties in 
the shape or configuration of articles, or impressions by any 
means whatever. These patents are of great value to the trade. 
The government fees for a design patent are: 

On filing every application for a design patent.$10 00 

On issuing a design patent for 3 l / z years no further charge. 

On issuing a design patent for 7 years. 5 00 

On issuing a design patent for 14 years. 20 00 

Caveats.— A caveat is a confidential communication filed in 
the patent office, and it consists of a specification, drawings, 
oath and petition. The specification must contain a clear de¬ 
scription of the intended invention. 

How a Copyright is Secured.— The method by which a 

copyright is obtained under the revised acts of Congress is as 
simple and inexpensive as can be reasonably asked. All un¬ 
necessary red tape is dispensed with, and the cost to the author 
who is seeking thus to protect himself in the enjoyment of the 
profits of his work, is so small as to be scarcely appreciable. 
This is an example of cheapness and directness toward which all 
branches of public administration should tend, if a government 
is to fulfil its proper mission of serving the people without need¬ 
lessly taxing them. Directions have lately been issued for the 
guidance of persons wishing to obtain copyrights; and as many 
of our readers may not be conversant with the subject, we give 
a brief abstract of the process. 

The first thing necessary is to send a printed copy of the title 
of the work, plainly directed, to “Librarian of Congress, Wash¬ 
ington, D. C.” The copyright law applies not only to books, 
pamphlets and newspapers, but also to maps, charts, photo¬ 
graphs, paintings, drawings, music, statuary, etc. If there is a 
title page, send that; if not, a title must be printed expressly for 
the purpose, and in both cases the name of the author or claim¬ 
ant of copyright must accompany the title. Use no smaller 
paper than commercial note. 

The legal fee for recording each copyright claim is 50 cents, 
and for a copy of this record (or certificate of copyright undei 



















































GENERAL MISCELLANY 


323 


seal of the office) an additional 50 cents is required, making in 
all $1.00, if certificate is wanted, which wiil be mailed as soon as 
reached in the records. In cases of persons not residents of the 
United States, the fee for recording title is $1.00, and fee for 
copy 50c., making $1.50 in all. 

Within 10 days after your book, or other article, is published, 
you are required to send two complete copies of the best edition 
to the Librarian, addressed as before, prepaying postage; or the 
Librarian will furnish “penalty labels,” under which they can 
be sent free of postage. If this deposit of copies is neglected, 
the copyright is void, and you are liable to a fine of $25. 

The law requires that on the title page of a copyrighted work, 
or some part of the drawing, painting, statue, or whatever it 
may be, there shall be printed these words; “Entered according 

to Act of Congress, in the year-, by-, in the office of the 

Librarian of Congress, at Washington; ” or, if preferred, this 

briefer form may be used: “Copyright, 18—. by-.” To this 

may be added, “Right of translation reserved,” or “All rights 
reserved;” but in that case the Librarian must have been duly 
notified, so that he may include it in the record. 

Any person who prints the copyright notice on his work with¬ 
out having obtained a copyright, is liable to a penalty of $100. 
The original term of a copyright runs for twenty-eight years, 
and it may then be renewed for a further term of fourteen years, 
either by the author or by his widow or children, application 
being made not less than six months before the expiration of 
the right. Trade marks and labels cannot be copyrighted under 
this law, but are provided for by a separate act, relating to mat¬ 
ters of detail, which cannot here be recited, but in regard to 
which, the Librarian at Washington will give the needed infor¬ 
mation whenever required. 

Trade Marks, Labels, Prints, etc. —Copyrights cannot 
be granted upon trade marks, nor upon mere names of com¬ 
panies or articles, nor upon prints or labels intended to be used 
with any article of manufacture. If protection for such names 
or labels is desired, application must be made to the Patent 
Office, where they are registered at a fee of $6 00 for labels, and 
$25.00 for trade marks. 

By the word “label” is meant a slip of paper, or other mate¬ 
rial, to be attached to manufactured articles, or to packages 
containing them, and bearing the name of the manufacturer, 
directions for use, etc. 

By the word “print” is meant any device, word, or figures 
(not a trade mark) impressed directly upon the article, to denote 
the name of the manufacture', etc. 















































































COMMON NAMES OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES 

Aqua Fortis.Nitric Acid 

Aqua Regia.Nitro-Muriatic Acid 

Blue Vitriol.Sulphate of Copper 

Cream of Tartar.Bitartrate of Potassium 

Calomel.Chloride of Mercury- 

Chalk .Carbonate of Calcium 

Salt of Tartar.Carbonate of Potassa 

Caustic Potassa. Hydrate of Potassium 

Chloroform.Chloride of Gormyle 

Common Salt.Chloride of Sodium 

Copperas or Green VitriolSulphate of Iron 

Corrosive Sublimate_Bichloride of Mercury 

Diamond.Pure Carbon 

Dry Alum.Sulphate Aluminum and Potassium 

Epsom Salts.Sulphate of Magnesia 

Ethiops Mineral.Black Sulphide of Mercury 

Fire Damp.Light Carbureted Hydrogen 

Galena.Sulphide of Lead 

Glucose.Grape Sugar 

Goulard Water.Basic Acetate of Lead 

Iron Pyrites.Bisulphide of Iron 

Jeweler's Putty.Oxide of Tin 

King Yellow.Sulphide of Arsenic 

Laughing Gas. Protoxide of Nitrogen 

Lime.Oxide of Calcium 

Lunar Caustic.Nitrate of Silver 

Mosaic Gold.Bisulphide of Tin 

Muriate of Lime.Chloride of Calcium 

Niter of Saltpeter.Nitrate of Potash 

Oil of Vitriol. Sulphuric Acid 

Potash.Oxide of Potassium 

Red Lead.Oxide of Lead 

Rust of Iron.•.Oxide of Iron 

Sal Ammoniac.Muriate of Ammonia 

Slacked Lime.Hydrate of Calcium 

Soda.Oxide of Sodium 

Spirits of Hartshorn. ... Ammonia 

Spirit of Salt.Hydrochloric or Muriatic Acid 

Stucco, or Plaster Paris..Sulphate of Lime 

Sugar of Lead.Acetate of Lead 

Verdigris.Basic Acetate of Copper 

Vermilion.Sulphide of Mercury 

Vinegar.Acetic Acid (diluted 

Volatile Alkali. Ammonia 

Water.Oxide of Hydrogen 

White Precipitate.Ammoniated Mercury 

White Vitriol.Sulphate of Zinc 
















































































































CLASSIFIED ALPHABETICAL INDEX 


DEPARTMENT I_THE DRUGGIST. 


Y4\ 



... PAGE 

Abbreviations and Signs. 9 

Apothecaries vVeight.....10 

Avoirdupois Weight_ f. .10 

Apparatus.13 

Antacids.16 

Antiseptics. 16 

Anthelmintics. 17 

Asti’ingents.'.... 17 

Absorbents. 17 

Alteratives. 17 

Anodynes. 17 

Antiarthritics.’... 17 

Antiemetics. 17 

Anticon vulsives. 17 

Antiperiodics. 17 

Antiphlogistics. 17 

Antiscorbutics.5.. 17 

Antispasmodics. 17 

Alder. Decoction of.... 20 

Alkaline Infusion.;. 20 

Arnica, Decoction of. 20 

Aconite Ointment....... 26 

Alum Ointment. 26 

Alum Poultice.'.. 33 

Antiseptic Poultice. 33 

Aim >nd Syrup. 35 

Aconite Tincture. 38 

Aloes Tincture. 38 

Angelica Tincture. 38 

Aniseed Essence...’. 38 

Arnica Tincture.*._ 38 

Aromatic Elixir. 38 

Aromatic Tincture. 38 

Ayer’s Cherry Pectoral. 43 

August Flower. 43 

A Sure Cure for Piles. 4/ 

325 


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alphabetical index 

Another Salve. 47 

Another Cough Cure.1. . 1 !!!!!*!! ’ 47 

A Certain Cure for Drunkenness. ...Y...'..’. 48 

A Cure for Cancer. 48 

Baths for Com pounding-. 14 

Barley, Decoction of..*.*.*.*.!!!” 21 

Beet Root, Infusion of. 21 

Blue Flag, Infusion of.21 

Boneset or Thorough wort, Infusion of. .I 21 

Buchu. Infusion of. 94 

Bran, Decoction of.1 i ’ 21 

Belladonna Liniment...99 

Benzoin Ointment. ......Y.Y.Y.Y.Y.Y. . 26 

Black Liniment.,.!!*.*.!.**.*.!.*.*.!! ”. 09 

Brown’s Bronchial Troches. ..... .... .... .... 30 

Boynton’s Adhesive Plaster.33 

Bark and Protoxide of Iron Elixir. 3« 

Beef and Iron Wine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 

Belladonna Tineture.’ 39 

Benzoin Tincture. oq 

Bitter Elixir..!!..!**!!*!. '39 

Buchu Tincture. oq 

Blood Purifier, B. B. B.43 

Clarification. -it 

Cathartics. . 

Cerebro-Spinants... |-4 

Carminatives. -10 

choiagogues. !!...!! .i« 

Capsicum or Cayenne Pepper, Infusion of.....*.’.’.*. 21 

Cascarilla, Infusion of. 21 

Chamomile, Infusion of. ...Y.Y.YY. . 21 

Coffee, Decoction of. Y.Y.Y. i Y . 91 

Cotton Root, Decoction of. .’. .. 91 

Calomel Cerate. o<{ 

Camphor Liniment. 2? 

Carbolic Acid Ointment. 90 

Centaur Liniment. ok 

Cucumber Ointment.!.•. XZ 

Caffeine Lozenges. .........Y. .. nn 

Calomel Lozenges.1. *. o n 

Carbolic Acid Lozenges. qn 

Catechu Lozenges. ...... YY . q 1 

Charcoal Lozenges.. q 1 

Ching’s Yellow Worm Lozenges. YY.. . oi 

Chlorate of Potassa Lozenges. .. 01 

Chloride of Gold Lozenges. 01 

Clove Lozenges .. 31 

Cough Lozenges...”!!!!!!!!!*..'.*". 0 j 

Croton Oil Lozenges.!..".".!.!!!!*. 31 

Cubebs Lozenges . . 













































































































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Cancer Plasters .... 

Cantharides Plaster. 

Court Plaster.... * *. 

Cathartic Syrups. o- 

Calisaya Bark Elixir.| "'*..'***. oq 

Camphorated Tincture of Opium. qq 

Cantharides Tincture. Yq 

Capsicum Tincture. . 

Capsicum and Cantharides Tincture!.!'.. 40 

Capsicum and Veratria Tincture.!. Tq 

Cascarilla Essence. In 

Catechu Wine.!!!!!!'!!. In 

Catechu Tincture. Jn 

Celery Elixir. Vx 

Celery Essence.!!!!. In 

Centuary Wine.. 

Chloroform Tincture. 40 

Cinnamon Tincture...!. . In 

Clove Essence. TV 

Colchicum Tincture.!!!!!..!!.If 

Colchicum Wine. II 

Cough Elixir..!!!!!!!!!!."!!..It 

Cubebs Tincture.!!'!*!!. 41 

Castoria.!!!!!!!!!!!!!. 

Canada Catarrh Cure..!!!!!!!!!!!!!. 40 

Cough Drops. . . 40 

Cough Drops.!!!!!.!!!!!!.47 

Cure for Sore Throat.. 47 

Cathartic Pills..I!..!!!!!!.!!!!.... 47 

Corns, Sure and Painless Cure for. !!!!** . 4a ‘ 

Chilblains.!....!!!* !. 49 

Catarrh, Simple Remedy for.*!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"!!!!!!!!!!. 49 

Decocting". 44 

Distillation. ..!*!!!!!!!!. 14 

Deliriants..!!.!.!!. 18 

Demulcents.!..!!!!!!!!!!!!!".18 

Diaphoretics....!!!!!!!!!!!. is 

Diiutents.!!.!!!!. is 

Diuretics.....!!!!.!!!!.!!!!!!!. is 

Dandelion, Infusion of..".".!!!..!!!!!!!. 09 

Davis’ Pain Killer..!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. 27 

Downer’s Salve. !!!!!!!!*!!!.27 

Digitalis Tincture.! ’!!. 41 

Drops of Life. . 43 

Diphtheria, Sure Cure for.!!!!!!!!!!!!.46 

Diphtheria, To Cure.!!!!. 43 

Dropsy, Cure for.... .. .... .. ....* 49 

Expression. 13 

Emetics.... 18 

Emmenagogues...!!...!!!!!!!!!!!'.!" 18 




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l V V v w. 

r^-rcif 

328 

ALPHABETICAL INDEX 


fXAO 

W/^W\ II 



. 19 











Escharotics. 

Expectorants. 19 

Elecampane, Decoction of. 22 

Elin Bark. Infusion of. 2*. 

Ergot, Decoction of. 22 

Emolient Liniment. 27 

Eye Ointments. 27 

Ergot Tincture. 41 

Elecampane Tincture. 41 

EyeWater. 46 

Funnels..... . • 14 

Filter Rack. 14 

Filtration. 15 

Febrifuges... 19 

Fern Root, Decoction of. 22 

Figs, Decoction of. 22 

Flaxseed, Infusion of. 22 

Flagg’s Instant Relief. 27 

Fuller’s Cough Syrup. 36 

Fever and Ague. 48 

Or actuates tfos* Mixing . 13 

Green Mountain Salve. 28 

Good Samaritan Liniment. 28 

Ginger Lozenges. 31 

Gum Syrup. 36 

Gum Traganth. 36 

Godfrey's Cordial. 44 

Gonorrhea. 46 

Grip, Said to be Good for. 48 

Hoemostatics. 19 

Hypnotics. 19 

Hoarhound, Infusion of. 22 

Hops. Infusion of. 22 

Hamlin’s Wizard Oil. 28 

Hops Ointment. 28 

Hemlock Confection. 32 

Hall’s Balsam for the Lungs . 36 

Hall’s Honey of Hoarhound and Tar. 36 

Hive Syrup.-. 36 

Hoarhound Syrup. 36 

Horseradish Syrup. 36 

Harter’s Iron Tonic.i.44 

Hood’s Sarsaparilla. 44 

Hop Bitters. 44 

Hostetter’s Bitters . 44 

Healing Salve. 47 

How to Remove Pain and Soreness from Wounds. 49 

































































































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Iceland Moss. Decoction of.*.**. .. oo 

Irish Moss, Decoction of.. o 

Indian Sarsapaiilla, Infusion of."" ”' ’ . oo 

Indian Sarsaparilla, Decoction of. o'*? 

Indian Oil (Healy & Bigelow’s).. oq 

Iodide of Mercury Ointment. o« 

Iodoform Ointment. Sd 

Itch Ointment.!!!”!!!”!”. 

Iceland Moss Chocolate.. . 

Indian Worm Killer (Heals’’ & Bigelow’s). . 59 

Ipecac Syrup. o 2 

Iodine Tincture. .....'..'. . 4 ” 


Iron Wine 


42 


Indian Sagwa. . . 44 


Injection Brou . 


Influenza or “Grippe,” Treatment for........i 50 

Juniper, Infusion of. 03 

Jayne’s Expectorant. 44 

.Jayne’s Tonic Vermifuge.44 

Kino, Infusion of. 91 

Kousso, Infusion of. 04 

King of Pain. on 

Kickapoo Buffalo Salve.. . . . . . . . . . . . 09 

Lamps for Distilling-. 14 

Licorice, Decoction of.!....!*.!. 93 

Lead Plaster. . . . . . . . . . . 04 

Linseed Meal Poultice. 94 

Lavender Tincture. 40 

Lobelia. . 1 . .. ..... .. 40 

Lozenges for Heartburn. . . 47 

Lung Medicine. . . . . . . ’. *.!!** ”48 

Ulortars for Compounding. 13 

Marsh Mallow, Decoction of. 03 

Magnetic Ointment. 09 

Magic Oil. ’ .’ * * “ ”' *" ‘ j * *' ’'' 09 

Magnetic Toothache Drops. 09 

My Own Liniment. 29 

Mustang Liniment. 09 

, M us tard Ointmen t....*.*.'.**.*.*. 99 - 

Myrrh Tincture.’ ’ ’ ’ ’ ‘ ] ‘ *' 43 

Narcotics. 19 

Nervines.." ."!!!*'* *. 1 q 

Nutritives. .| ’.* ” j ‘ ” ‘ ‘ ” 19 








































































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ALPHABETICAL INDEX 


Oak Bark, Decoction of.. 23 

Orange Peel, Infusion of. 23 

Opium Lozenges . 32 

Orange Peel Syrup. 36 

Opium Tincture (laudanum). 42 

Onanism, Cure for. 46 


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Percolator. 13 

Percolation. 10 

Parsley Root, Infusion of. 23 

Pennyroyal, Infusion of. 23 

Peppermint, Infusion of. 24 

Peruvian Bark, Infusion of. 24 

Pink Root, Infusion of. 24 

Pomegranate Root, Infusion of. 24 

Pile Ointment. 29 

Pomegranate Electuary. 32 

Pitch Plaster. 34 

Poorman’s Plaster. 34 

Piso's Consumption Cure. *17 

Pepsin. Bismuth and Strychnia Elixir. 42 

Piles, A Sure Cure for..47 

Plain Court Plaster. 49 


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Retorts for Distillation. 14 

Refrigerants. 19 

Rubifacients. 20 

Radway’s Ready Relief (R. R. R.). 30 

Rhubarb Syrup. 37 

Rose Syrup. 37 

Rheumatism, Specific for Inflammatory. 47 

Scales for Weighing-. 13 

Spatulas for Compounding. 13 

Sieves for Compounding. 14 

Sialogogues. 20 

Sedatives. 20 

Stomachics. 20 

Sudorifics. 20 

Stimulants. 20 

Sage, Infusion of.,. 24 

Sarsaparilla, Decoction of. 24 

Savine or Savin, Infusion of. 24 

Senna, Infusion of. 24 

Slippery Elm, Infusion of. 25 

Squill, Decoction of . 25 

Sweet Flag. Infusion of. 25 

St. Jacob’s Oil. 30 

Squill Honey. 32 


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alphabetical index 


331 


A 

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Spice Plaster. 04 

Strengthening Plaster . -ir, 

Syrups (medicinal).. 

Sarsaparilla Syrup.’ ’ ”. An 

Senna Syrup. . 07 

Squills Syrup. o 7 

Squill Tincture...!!.!.!!!”!!.."! . 42 

Smith’s Tonic Syrup. 4 ^ 

Sozodont, Fragrant. 4 1 

Shaker Extract of Herbs.* . 45 

Succus Alteratus. 4 ^ 

Seven Seals of Golden Wonder.•. .. 45 

Swain's Vermifuge.*. 45 

Smallpox, Sure Cure for .. 46 

Sure Cure for Diphtheria..”*’!**!**. ak 

Sure Cure for Piles..*.*!! .'46 

Specific for Inflammatory Rheumatism ””.*.*”.*.’ !!””.*.*!!*** * 47 
Said to be Good for “Grip”.48 

Tables of Weights and Their Equivalents. 10 

Troy Weight. 10 

Tables of Measures.. .. 

Tonics... . . . . . . .. . . . . oq 

Tansy, Infusion of. 95 

Tar, In fusion of. . 25 

Tobacco, Infusion of.......!.”!!!!!.!!!!!!!!! 25 

Tar Ointments. . .. . . 30 

Tannic Acid Lozenges ..... .. 32 

Tulu Lozenges.33 

Tar Syrup (Boschee’s German Syrup).37 

Tulu Tincture. 42 

Tonic Tincture. 42 

Tapeworm, To Remove.46 

Tetter Ointment. 47 

Tetter Ointment. 48 

Toothache Drops. 48 

To Strengthen the System. 49 

Useful Table of Equivalents. 10 

Vermifuge Lozenges. 33 

Valerian Tincture. 42 

Wintergreen, Ilecoetion of. 25 

Wild Cherry Bark, Infusion of. 25 

Waterdock. Decoction of. 25 

Wistar’s Cough Lozenges. 33 

Worm Lozenges. 33 

Warming Plaster.. 35 

Wild Cherry Syrup. 37 

Wild Cherry Bark Tincture. 43 

Warner’s Tippecanoe Bitters. 45 


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ALPHABETICAL INDEX 



Warner s Safe Cure..--. 45 

Wakefield’s Blackberry Balsam .. . 45 

Warts and Corns, To Remove. 48 


DEPARTMENT II.—THE CHEMIST. 


Artificial Gold. 57 

A Gold Plate Without a Battery. 59 

Buchner’s Carmine Ink. 51 

Black Copying Ink. 5i 

Brown Ink_>. 51 

Beautiful Blue Writing Fluid. 51 

Black Ink. . 51 

Black Ink, No. 2. 51 

Black Ink, No. 3. 52 

Blue Ink. . 52 

Brilliant Red Ink. 52 

Best Pinchback Gold. 57 

Blue Fire. 61 

Common Ink. 52 

Copying Ink.r....... 52 

Commercial Writing Ink. 52 

Copying Pad..'.... 56 

Crucibles. 59 

Colored Fires.61 

Crimson Fire. 61 

Colored Flames (green)..‘‘‘ 62 


Dynamite. 59 

Explosives. 59 


Fireworks and Explosives.:. 59 

Fulminate of Mercury. "" 59 

Fulminate of Silver.60 

Fulminating Powder.. \ 60 

Fireworks.I!.".”*.!!!!!!!! 60 

FI ame or Electric Paper. 62 

Flyers with Brilliant Fire.62 






















































































Gold and Silver. . 57 

Gold Ink. 52 

Green Ink. 52 

Gilding Writing Ink... 55 

Gold, To Imitate. 57 

Greek Fire. 60 

Gun Cotton. 60 

Gunpowder. 60 

Green Fire. 61 

Golden Rain. 63 

Horticultural Ink. 52 

“Handy” Water Pens. 52 

How to Increase the Weight of Gold. 58 

Inks... 51 

Ink Powders —.. 53 

Invisible Ink. 53 

Invisible Ink (new). 53 

Indelible Ink to Mark Linen. 53 

Indelible Marking Ink without a Prepartion.. — 53 

Indelible Ink for Glass or Metals... . 53 

Indelible Ink for Marking Linen. 53 

Indelible Ink. 54 

Ink Eraser . 56 

Imitation Gold. 57 

Imitation Silver. 58 

Japanese Matches. 63 

Luminous Ink. 53 

Lilac Fire. 61 

Manlieim or Jewelers’ Gold. 57 

Nitro-Glycerine. 60 

Nitroline. 60 

Oroide Gold. 57 

Original and Genuine Silver Plating Fluid. 58 

Orange Fire. 61 

Purple Ink. 54 

Pink Fire. 61 

Purple Fire. 61 

Pharoah's Serpents’ Eggs. 68 

Pin or Scroll Wheels. 64 


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Yellow Ink. 55 

Yellow Fire. 02 

Zodiac Branding; Ink. 55 


Red Fire. 61 

Red Flame. 62 

Rockets.,. 65 

Rockets, Mold for. 66 

Roman Candles. 66 

Silver Ink. 54 

Sympathetic Ink. 54 

Silver Imitation. 58 

Still Other Methods. 58 

Silver Fluid. 58 

Silver Polish for Tin, Brass, etc. 58 

Silver Powder. 59 

Silver Rain. 67 

Stars (all colors). 67 

Ticketing Ink for Grocers. 54 

The Lightning Ink Eraser. 54 

Travelers’ Ink. 54 

To write Secret Letters. 55 

To Make Rubber Stamp Ink. 55 

To Restore Faded Black Ink. 55 

The Housekeeper’s Friend or Electric Powder. 58 

To Clean Brittania Ware. 59 

Torpedoes (toy). 68 

Triangles or Vertical vVheels. 68 

Violet Copying Ink. 55 

Varnishing Ink. 56 

Violet Fire. 62 

White Ink. 55 

Waterproof Ink. 56 

White Fire. 62 




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Alphabetical index 

DEPARTMENT III.—TOILET ARTICLES 


33 & 


Aromatic Water. 

Ambergris Tincture. 

Almond Paste (for the face). 

Almond Paste (for the hands). 

Ammonia Hair Wash. 

Arsenical Depilatory. 

\n Excellent Toilet Soap. 

A Celebrated French Toilet Compound 

Almond Soap. 

Antimonial Soap. 


69 

70 
75 
75 
84 
90 
94 
94 
94 
94 


Benzoin Tincture. 

Black Spots or Fleshworms, 
Blotched Pace, Wash for.... 

Bloom of Roses. 

Balm of Beauty. 

Bloom of Youth. ... 

Baldness, Oil for. 

Bear’s Oil. 

Brilliantine. 

Bay Rum Restorative. 

Blonde Bleach. 

Black Hair Dye. 

Brown Dyo... 

Brown (dark)... 

Brown for Red Hair. 

Baldness, Pomade for. 

Balsam of Tolu. 

Boettger's Depilatory.... 

Bay Rum. 

Bouquet Soap. 


70 

75 

75 

80 

80 

8G 

83 

83 

83 

86 

87 

87 

87 

87 

87 

89 

89 

90 

91 
94 


Cinnamon Water, 

Civet Tincture. 


Cologne...— 

Cologne Water.. • • • ; • .. 

Chapped Hands. Ointments and Liniments for 
Chapped Lips, Ointments and Liniments for..., 

Cold Cream. 

Complexion Paste. . . . 

Celebrated Mcth and Freckle Lotion. 

Color for Lips. 


Corns.. 

Cocoanut Oil for the Hair 

Coloi )ngs for Oil. 

Cure for Baldness. 


69 

70 
70 
70 
75 

75 

76 
76 
76 
78 
82 
83 
83 
86 












































































































Chestnut Hair Dye. 

Curling Fluids and Fixatures 
Curioline. 

Curling Fluid. 

Circassian Cream. 

Chinese Depilatory. 

Camphor Tooth Paste. 

Charcoal Paste. 

Camphorated Powders (for the teeth). 

Carbolic Acid Soap 
Castile Soap. 

Cinnamon Soap 
Cocoanut Oil Soap. 

Coloring for Soap. 

Cream Wash Balls. 

Distilled Waters and Oils. 69 

Dry Perfumes, Powders, etc. 73 

Dry and Brittle Hair. 85 

Dandruff. 85 

Depilatories. 90 

Excellent Scent Powder. 75 

Eyebrows and Eyelashes, To Improve. 86 

Eyebrows, To Make Grow. 85 

Eyebrows. Brown Dye for. 87 

Electric Depilatory. 90 

English Bath Soap. 95 

Floral Bouquet (perfume). 70 

Florida Water. 70 

Frangipanni. 70 

Frozen Perfume. 70 

Frangipanni (dry). 73 

Freckle Compound. 76 

Freckle Wash. . 76 

Freckles. To Remove. 77 

For Chapped and Rough Hands. 81 

French Lustral. 84 

Falling Out (of the hair), To Prevent. 85 

Floating Soap. 95 

Geranium Water. 71 

Genuine Royal Essence. 71 

Glycerine Hair Oil. 84 

Gray Hair. To Prevent..... ’ ’ 85 

Golden Bleach. 87 

Gum Arabic (hair fixature). 88 

Gum Tragacanth.' " 88 

German Pomade. 89 

Glycerine Soap.. *.!.. .! 95 

Glycerine Balls.06 






















































































ALPHABETICAL INDEX 


S3t 


Heliotrope Essence . 71 

Hair Oil..84 

Hair Restoratives, Tonics and Washes. 1 ....... _ ........ 84 

Hair Restoratives. 85 

Hair Restorative and Invigorator.86 

Hair Tonic. 86 

Hall’s Restorative. ..!!!..*!.*.!!!!! 86 

Hair Dyes and Bleaches. 87 

Hair Dye, Black.87 

Hard Pomade.”... 89 

Hungarian or Mustache Wax.. 89 

Honey Paste (for the teeth). 92 

Honey Soap. 96 


Incense.. . 73 

Inexhaustible Smelling Salts.!..' ’74 

Imperial Unguent (for the beard). 91 

Iodine Soap. 96 


Jocliey Club Perfume. 71 


Kiss Me Quick Perfume. 71 


Ladies Own. 

Lavender Water. 

Lavender Water (No. 2).., . 

Lemon Essence. 

Lemon Cream for Sunburn. 

Lemon Juice Lotion. 

Lyons Kathairon. 

Lavender Soap. 


71 

71 

71 

72 
80 
80 
84 
96 


Moss Rose Extract. 

Musk Extract. 

Musk Tincture. 

Musk, To Remove. 

Moles, To Remove. 

Mottle Patches, To Remove. 

Malorrisine (powder for the complexion). 

Milk of Roses. 

Macassar Oil (hair). . 

Marrow. 

Mustache Grower. 

Magic Paste (tooth) . 

Myrrh (paste for the teeth). 

Myrrh (washes). 

Mouth Paste to Sweeten the Breath. 

Marine Soap. 

Mercurial Soap. 


72 

72 

72 

77 

77 

77 

78 
78 
84 
84 

91 

92 

93 
93 
93 
90 
96 














































































New Mown Hay Extract. 

Nails, Wash for. 82 

New York Barber’s Hair Oil. 84 

Orange Flower Water. 69 

Orris Root Tincture. 72 

Offensive Feet, Wash for. 82 

Oil of Almond (pomade). 89 

Oatmeal Soap. 96 

Perfumes, Cosmetics, Toilet Articles. 69 

Perfumes. 70 

Patchouli Extract . ..*.'!!!!.! 72 

Pastels for Burning, Deodorizing, etc.””” 73 

Pimples, To Remove. 77 

Pitting, To Remove. 77 

Powders, Paints and Washes for the Complexion........ 78 

Powders for the Complexion. 78 

Paste for Oily Complexion. 78 

Pearl Powder. 79 

Pearl Water for the Complexion.!!!!!!!!!! 79 

Preventative Wash for Sunburn. 79 

Paste, To Whiten the Hands. 81 

Powder for the Feet.* ’ ’. 82 

Preparations for the Hair and Beard.!..;!.!!!"!. 83 

Plaster, Depilatory ..| 90 

Paste to Produce Whiskers. * .91 

Powders and Washes for the Teeth.!. 9‘> 

Powders. go 

Perfuming Soap.97 

Rose Water. 69 

Rose Water, Spirituous. 70 

Rose Water. 72 

Rose W ater (artificial). 72 

Rose Powder."... ”.74 

Rose Powder,. 78 

Remove Pimples. 79 

Rouge. 79 

Rose Pomade.* ”. 89 

Razor Strap Paste..!!!!!!..!.. 91 

Razor Paste.’. 90 

Rose Soap.. iii’ 97 

Strawberry Water. 69 

Superior Cologne Water. 72 

Sachet Powders, Cassia.•. .. 74 

Sachet Powders, Heliotrope.74 

Sachet Powders, Lavender.74 

Sachet Powders, A-la-mareschale.74 

























































































ALPHABETICAL INDEX 339 

Sachet Powders, Millefleurs.*. 74 

Sachet for Perfuming Linen. 74 

Skin Pomades. 79 

Stains, To Remove from Skin. 81 

Soften the Hands. 81 

Shaving Soap. 91 

Shaving Compound. 91 

Shaving Cream. 91 

Sand Soap. 97 

Shaving Soap. 97 


To Extract Attar of Roses and Other Flowers .70 

Tube Rose Extract. 72 

To Remove Fleshworms. 76 

To Soften the Hands. 80 

To Color tha Nails. 82 

To Make the Hair Soft and Glossy. 84 

Transparent Pomade. 90 

To Make a Razor Strap. 91 

Tooth Powders, Washes, etc. 92 

To Beautify the Teeth and Make the Breath Sweet. 92 

To Clean the Teeth. 92 

To Sweeten the Breath. 93 

Transparent Soap. 97 


Upper Ten Extract. 72 


Vanilla Tincture. 72 

Verbena Extract. 73 

Vetiver Essence. 73 

Violet Extract...... 73 

Violet Powder. 74 

Volatile Salts for Pungents. 74 

Violet Paste (teeth). 92 

Violet Mouth Wash. 94 

Violet Soaps. 97 

West End Extract. 73 

White Rose Extract. 73 

Wrinkles, To Remove. 80 

Wilson’s Lotion (hair) . 86 

Walnut Hair Dye. 88 

White Pomade. . 90 

White Toilet Soap. 97 

Windsor Soap, Brown. 98 

Windsor Soap, White. 98 

Viang' Ylang - Extracts. 73 





































































































340 ALPHABETICAL INDEX 

DEPARTMENT IV.—THE HOUSEHOLD. 


A Wash for Cleaning Silver . 

Ante Rlanlr Tn FlASt.rnv . 

. 112 

. 116 

Ants Red To Destroy,. . 

. 116 

A rl rl i t.i nri n 1 T?ppinpft . . 

. 125 

Artificial Gold. 

. 131 


Blankets. To Wash. 10° 

Bleaching Cotton. 106 

Bleaching Linen. 106 

Blueing for Clothes. 106 

Barrels. To Clean.... 108 

Brass, To Clean. 108 

Brass or Copper Kettles, To Clean. . 108 

Brilliant Self-Shining.Stove Polish. . 108 

Brittannia, To Clean. 109 

Brushes, To Clean. 109 

Bedbugs, To Destroy. 116 

Bees, To Destroy . 117 

Beds, Dampness in... 119 

Bread, To Keep Moist. 119 

Butter, Rancid, To Sweeten. Ii9 

Burning Fluid. 125 

Black Tracing Paper. 129 


Cleaning 1 Compound. 99 

Cream (for cleaning). 99 

Coal Oil Spots, To Remove. 99 

Cloth, To Clean. 99 

Cleaning Lace. 99 

Cleaning Picture Frames. 99 

Cleaning Stains, Spots, etc., from Furniture. 100 

Cleaning Gilt Frames. 100 

Corsets, To Clean. 100 

Coffee Stains, To Remove. 100 

Color, To Restore. 100 

Crape, To Renew. 100 

Chemical Compound (washing). 106 

Combs, To Clean. 109 

Carpets, To Clean. 109 

Carpets and Floor Cloths, To Remove Grease from. 110 

Carpets, to Remove Ink from. 110 

Ceilings. To Clean.... 110 

Carpet Bugs, To Destroy. 117 

Crickets, To Destroy . 117 

Cockroaches, To Destroy. 117 





















































































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Croton Bugs, To Destroy. 117 

Candles, To Burn Slowly. 119 

Cellars, Fi’eezing in. 120 

Cisterns, Waterproofing. 120 

Cistern Water, To Clear— >..,_ 120 

Cistern Water, To Keep Sweet. 120 

Clinkers in Stoves, To Remove. 120 

Clotlies, Burning, To Extinguish. 120 

Coal, Artificial. 121 

Coal Oil, To Test. 121 

Coal, To Protect. 121 

Corkscrews, Substitutes for. 121 

Corks, To Remove . 121 

Cream, To Keep. 121 

Centennial Illuminating Oil. 125 

Court Plaster..... 130 

Doors Creaking 1 , To Prevent. . .. 122 

Feathers, To Bleach. 100 

Freshening Crape.-.. 101 

For Bleaching Cotton Cloth. 101 

For Cleaning Merino or any Woolen Stuff. 101 

Freshening Marble. 101 

Feathers, To Clean. 101 

Feathers, To Curl. 101 

Feathers, To Restore. 102 

Floors, To Clean.. 110 

Furniture, To Clean. 110 

Furniture Polish. 110 

Fleas, To Destroy.. 117 

Flies, To Destroy. 117 

Fly Poison. 117 

Fabrics, To Make Waterproof. 122 

Fire Kindlers. 122 

Flies, To Drive from a Room. 122 

Fluid Extracts. 126 

Fireproof Wood . 127 

Ficticious Gold. 132 

Gloves, Kid, To Clean. 102 

Genuine Cleaning Fluid. 102 

Gilt Frames, To Brighten. Ill 

Glass, To Clean. 112 

Glass Windows, To Prevent Steaming. 112 

Gilt Jewelry, To Clean . 114 

Grease Eraser. 114 

Gold Chains, To Clean . 114 

Gnats, To Destroy. 117 








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342 ALPHABETICAL INDEX 

How to Polish Horns. Ill 

How to Destroy Insects. US 

Household Miscellany. 119 

Holes in Stockings. 125 

How to Keep Eggs Fresh. 127 

How to Thaw Out a Water Pipe . 128 


Iron Rust. To Remove. 106 

Ink Stains, To Remove. 106 

Improved Troy Starch Enamel. 106 

Ivory, To Clean.,. 112 

Insect Powder, Persian. 117 

Ice, To Keep. 122 

1. X. L. Baking Powder. 125 

Indestructible Lamp Wicks. 125 

Imitation Frost Crystals . 128 

Liquid Stove Polish . Ill 

Lamp Chimneys. To Clean,..... 112 

Lamp Burners, To Clean. 113 

Looking Glasses to Clean. 113 

Lice. 118 

Lamp Chimneys, To Prevent Crackimr. 122 

Lamplighters. 123 

Lamps, Night, To Make . 123 

Leg Ulcers. 130 

Magic Annihilator . 102 

Mildew from Linen. 107 

Mahogany Furniture Varnish. Ill 

Marble, To Clean. 113 

Mosquitoes, To Banish. 118 

Moths. To Banish. 118 

Matches, Care of. 123 

Milk, Sour, To Sweeten. 123 

Milk, To Prevent Souring. 123 

Milk, To Test the Richness of. 123 

Nitrate of Silver or Nitric Acid Stains . 103 

New England Soap. 107 

Paint, To Remove . 103 

Patent Soap. 107 

Piano Polish. Ill 

Polish for Removing Stains, etc., from Furniture. 112 

Paint, To Clean. 113 

Paint, Glue, for Kitchen Floors. 113 

Pests. 116 

Preserving Wood. 126 

Premium Paint Without Oil or Lead. 128 


















































































ALPHABETICAL INDEX 343 

Preservation of Ropes. 130 

Protecting Lead Water pipes. 130 

Renovating: Recipes.. 99 

Ribbons, To Clean. 103 

Recipes for the Laundry. 105 

Recipes for Cleaning and Repairing. 109 

Rust, To Remove from Steel. 113 

Rust on Tin. 113 

Rendering Textiles Fireproof. 114 

Rat, Mouse and Roach Exterminator. 119 

Rubber, To Restore Elasticity of. 123 

Sealing 1 Wax, To Remove . 103 

Spots and Stains from Dresses, To Remove. 103 

Soaps, Soft. 107 

Soaps, Hard... 107 

Silver, To Clean. 113 

Silver Powders and Liquid for Plating. 114 

Sponges. To Clean. 114 

Stove Polish, To Make. 115 

Scissors, To Sharpen. 124 

Stoves, Cracks in. To Mend. 124 

Silver Imitations. 131 


To Remove Iron Rust. 

To Renovate Black Goods . 

To Restore Scorched Linen. 

To Remove Ink Stains. 

To Wash Silk. 

Tar, To Remove..*. 

To Glaze Linen. 

To Soften Hard Water. 

To Take Stains Out of Mahogany. 

To Renew Old Oil Paintings. 

To Get a Broken Cork Out of a Bottle.. . . 

Tight Ring, To Remove. 

To Destroy, the Effects of Acids on Clothes 

To Clean Brassware. 

To Polish Tortoise Shell. 

Treasury Department Whitewash.— 

To Paper Whitewashed Walls. 

To Clean Wall Paper. 

Taste of Wood, To Remove. 

To Mend Tinware by the Heat of a Candle 

To Mend Iron.. 

To Preserve Cut Flowers. 

To Preserve Flowers.. a... 

To Cleanse Bottles. 

To Clean Wine Decanters. 

To Clean China. 4 .. 


104 

104 

104 

104 

104 

105 

107 

108 
111 
112 
112 
114 

114 

115 
115 
115 

115 

116 
124 
124 
124 
126 
126 
126 
126 
126 




















































































































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ALPHABETICAL INDEX 


' Frost Window Panes., 

Keep Salt Dry. 
i Preserve Wooden Posts. 

' Prevent Warping of Wood. 

' Marble Books or Paper.. 

Make Paper into Parchment. 

Print a Picture from the Print Itself 

i Prevent Mold. 

> Straighten Round Shoulders. 

Make Cloth Waterproof. 

Case-harden Iron . 

Remove Rust from Iron or Steel. 

Preserve Steel Articles from Rust.... 

Melt Steel as Easily as Lead. 

i Mend Ironware. 

Joint Lead Pipes. 


Velveteen, To Clean. 

Velvets, To Restore. 


Washing Fluid. 

Washing Powder. 

White Silk Lace, To Clean. 

Water, To Ascertain if Hard or Soft.. 
Window Glass, To Prevent Frosting. 

Wash for Carpets... 

Wax Stains on Cloth. 

Waterproofing for Clothing... 



105 

105 



DEPARTflENT V.—ALL TRADES. 


Artificial Maple Sugar. 133 

Almond Bars. 133 

A Number One Chocolate Drop.1.33 

Almond Ice Cream. 144 

Artificial Honey. 14,s 

Acid Fruit Syrup. ......” 148 

Ambrosia Syrup. ' . iiu 

Apple syrup .;;;;;;;;;;. 

Aerated Lemonade . 151 























































































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Almond Milk. 

Ambrosial or Nectar Cream Soda. 151 

Angostura Bitters. 151 

Aniseed Cordial. 151 

Aperient Lemonade. 151 

Apricot Wine. . 152 

Aromatic Bitters. 152 

Artificial Cider.. 152 

A Hard Cement for Seams. 178 

Another Good Cement. 178 

Acid Proof Cement. 183 

Alabaster Cement. 183 

Aquarium Cement. 183 

Additional Unclassified Cements.186 

Armenian or Diamond Cement. 186 

Architectural Ornament^ in Relief. 188 

A Cheap Cem/^.. 188 

a Gooq cement. 189 

An Excellent Paste for Envelopes. 194 

A Perpetual Paste. i . 194 

A Paste for Scrap Books.... 194 

A Strong Paste. 194 

A Brilliant Paste. 194 

A Sugar Paste. 194 

Acid Proof Paste. . 194 

A Good Solder.:.. 167 

Artificial Gold (alloy)... 198 

Alloy for Journal Boxes. 199 

Alloy for Bells of Clocks. 199 

An Alloy for Tools. 199 

An Alloy for Cymbals and Gongs. 199 

Anti-Attrition and Axle Grease. 200 

Another Brass for Turning. 200 

Another Tutania. 202 

Aquafortis Bronze Dip. 205 

Angler’s Secret. 211 

A Beautiful White Paint. 218 

A Beautiful Color for Carriages, etc. 218 

A Good Imitation of Gold (paint). 220 

A Cheap Oak Varnish. 222 

Anti-Corrosive Paint. 222 

Artificial Asphaltum. 223 

An Excellent Green for Walls. 228 

Another 234 

Anothef Oak. 234 

Another Method (oak). 235 

A Good Ground for Mahogany. 237 

Another Method. 237 

Another Maple. 254 

A Red Stain. 254 

A Light Red Approaching to Pink.. (? 254 

A Very Dark Red Stain. 254 


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346 


ALPHABETICAL INDEX 



A Yellow Stain. 

Another Yellow Stain. 

A Blue Stain with Copper. 

A Green Stain. 

A Blue Stain with Indigo. 

A Purple Stain. 

A Black Stain. 

A Very Pine Black.. 

A Common Black Stain. 

A Light Red Brown Mahogany. 

A Fine Mahogany Stain. 

Amber Varnish, Pale. 

Anti-Rust Varnish for Iron and Steel 

Asphalt Varnish... 

Amber Varnishes. 

Amber Varnish, Black. 

Amber Varnishes, Pale. 

Arabian Horse Tamer’s Secret. 


Butter Creams... 

- Boston Chips.. 

Butter Scotch.. 

Banana Ice Cream. 

Banana Syrup. 

Blackberry Syrup... 

Baked Milk. 

Beet Vinegar. 

Blackberry Cordial. 

Blackberry Wine . 

Black Cherry Wine. 

Boker's Bitters. 

Bottle Soda Water, Without Machine 

Bromo and Cocoa.. 

Barley Water. 

Beef Jellv. 

Beef-tea Custard . 

Bread and Water Poultice. 

Botanical Glue. 

Buckland’s Cement. 

Best Cement for Aquaria.. 

Bookbinder’s Paste. 

Black Sealing Wax.. 

Bottle Wax, Black. 

Brown Sealing Wax. 

Blanched Copper. . 

Browning Gun Barrels. 

Best Red Brass for Fine Castings. 

Bronze Metal.. 

Bell Metal for Large Bells. 

Bell Metal for Small Bells. 

Britannia Metal (second quality).. 


254 

254 

255 
255 
255 
255 

255 

256 
256 
256 

256 

257 

257 

258 
274 
274 
274 
282 


133 

134 
134 
144 
148 
148 
152 
152 
152 

152 

153 
153 
153 
153 
153 
171 

171 

172 
172 
183 
191 
194 
196 
196 
196 
199 

199 

200 
200 
201 
201 
201 










































































































ALPHABETICAL INDEX 


341 



Britannia Metal for Casting. 

Britannia Metal for Spinning. 

Britannia Metal for Registers. 

Best Britannia for Spouts. 

Best Britannia for Spoons.. .. 

Best Britannia for Handles. 

Best Britannia for Lamps, Pillars and Spouts 
Best Soft Solder for Cast Britannia Ware. 

Black Solder. 

Best Lacquer for Brass. 

Brown Bronze Dip. 

Best Pewter. . 

Booth’s Patent Grease for Railway Axles. 

Brown Bronze Paint for Copper Vessels. 

Bronze for all Kinds of Metal. 

Bronze Paint for Iron or Brass. 

Bath Metal. 

Blanched Copper. 

Britannia Metal. 

Boot and Shoe Blacking. 

Boots. 

Boot Cleaning. 

Brilliant French Varnish for Leather.♦ 

Buff Color (paint). 

Bronze Green (paint). 

Blue. 

Buff. 

Bright Yellow for Floors. 

Brunswick Black... 

Black Japan Varnish.. 

Blue. 

Brown. 

Brilliant Peach Blossom— . 

Buff. 

Blue in Distemper. 

Blue Verditer. 

Blue and Gold Marble (to imitate). 

Black (stain). 

Black Walnut (stain). 

Blue (stain). 

Brown (stain). 

Blue Stains. 

Basket Varnish. 

Bleached Oil for Colorless Varnish. 

Black Japan. 

Black Rosewood Japan. 

Black Varnish. 

Bookbinders’ Varnish. 

Brass, Lacquer for.. . 

Brown Lacquer for Copper Bronze. 

Brushes, Varnish, Care of. 

Black Grounds (for varnishing). 


201 

201 

201 

201 

201 

201 

201 

202 

202 

204 

204 

205 

205 

206 
206 
206 
206 
207 

207 

208 
298 
208 
208 

217 

218 
218 
219 
219 
223 
223 
223 
223 

227 

228 
229 
229 
245 

252 

253 
253 
253 
255 
258 
258 
258 
258 

258 

259 
259 
259 
259 
267 



























































































































ALPHABETICAL INDEX 

Black Japan. o fi7 

Brunswick Black.!!!!!!!!'!!!!!!. 2fi7 

Blue Japan Grounds.”** . o «7 

Black Japan .!..!!!!!!!!!!.!!. 268 

Best Body Copal Varnish for Coachmakers. . 272 

Brown Hard Spirit Varnish. . 27 a 

Black Varnish for Ironwork. . o 7 v 

Bronze Varnish for Statuary. o4-> 

Black Varnish. !!!!!!!!!!!.*!.’* 074 

Beautiful V arnish for Paintings and Pictures. 277 

Black Varnish for Harness. 2 sn 

Boiled Oil or Linseed Oil Varnish .. oan 

Blue Color (varnish). 281 

Bright Varnish, Green, for Inside Blinds, etc.!!.”!!. omo 

Best Condition Powders. "" oaq 

Brittle and Contracted Hoofs.’!!!. 

Bone spavin. !!!!'!!!.'!!!.’!!!!!” o «3 

Bots ...!!!*.!!!! 283 


Cheap Chocolates. 104 

Common Twist Candy. . 7 oT 

Cream Candy...!”*!.*!. fol 

Chocolate Caramels.!!!!!!!!!*.*”* 10 ! 

Ghocolate Coating. ...*. 

Cold Sugar Icing. ” . jo- 

Cocoanut Cream Ice. . 

Crystalized Popcorn. . 

Caudy Penny-Popcorn Pieces ...!!!!!!!. " jo- 

Caramel Ice Cream. .‘. 

Chocolate Ice Cream.!!!!!!!!!!!!. jlo 

Candying, To Prevent (syrup).!!!!!!!!!!!!. 1 

Catawba Syrup. If** 

Champagne Syrup or Flavor.:!!.*!!!!!. 

Cherry Syrun. . } f g 

Chocolate Syrup. if° 

Cinnamon Syrup. lf9 

Clarifying (syrups)... Ifj* 

California Brandy. 7 ’? 

Cafe Noir. 151 

Champagne, Artificial...!.!!!!!. 7?^ 

Cherry Cordial. .. 

Ching-Ching. Ipf 

Chocolate, to Make. .. . • • • 154 

Cider, Canned.! . 1°“ 

Cider Champage. . 

Cider, Cherry. l?f 

Cider Clearing.!!!!!!!!!!!!. 154 

Cider, Preserving. . 15o 

Cider Vinegar. 1*^5 

. 155 
































































































ALPHABETICAL INDEX 


349 


Cider Without Apples . 155 

Cider, Sour, To Sweeten . 155 

Cocoa. 155 

Coffee. 155 

Coffee, Another Method of Making. 156 

Coffee, Essence of. 156 

Coffee in a Saucepan. 157 

Coffee, to Roast. 157 

Corn Coffee. 157 

Cottage Beer. 157 

Cream of Tartar Drink. 157 

Curacoa Cordial. 157 

Currant Water. 158 

Currant Wine. 158 

Cements (jmilding). 17 b 

Concrete, Gravel.. 176 

Cement for Terraces, Floors, etc. 177 

Cement for Outside Brick Walls. 178 

Cement for Coating the Fronts of Buildings. 178 

Cements for Steps and Brick Walls. 178 

Cement for Tile Roofs. 179 

Coarse Stuff. 179 

Composition (plastering).. 181 

Concrete Floors. 182 

Cements lor Other Purposes. 183 

Chinese Cement. 183 

Coppersmiths’. 183 

Cements for Mending Earthen and Glassware. 187 

Cements for Stoneware. 187 

Cement for Iron Tubes, Boilers, etc. 188 

Cement for Ivory, Mother of Pearl, etc. 188 

Cement for Holes in Castings. 188 

Gements for Coppersmiths and Engineers. 188 

Cement for Bottle Corks. 189 

China Cement. 189 

Cement for Leather. 189 

• Cements for Marbleworkers and Coppersmiths. 189 

Cement to Mend Iron Pots and Pans.. .. 189 

Cement to Render Cisterns and Casks Water-tight. 189 

Cements for Repairing Fractured Bodies. 190 

Cements for Cracks in Wood. 190 

Cement for Joining Metals and Wood. 190 

Cement for Fastening Brass to Glass Vessels. 190 

Cement for Fastening Blades, Files, etc. 190 

Cement for Rubber or Leather. 191 

Cement for Mending Valuable Glassware. 191 

Coppersmiths’ Cement. 192 

Crystal Cement. 192 

Cement for Leather. 192 

Cement for Seams in Roofs. 192 

Cement for Rubber Boots. 192 

Commercial Mucilage.... 192 



























































































































350 


alphabetical index 


Cream Mucilage. 193 

Cornstarch Paste. . . . . . 193 

Coppersmiths’ Solder.. 107 

Cock Metal.....". o()l 

Casting (metal)../.!..!!!!!!!’..’”!!!!!!!!!.!. om 

Color for Lacquer. . 204 

Common Pewter. . 0X3 

Composition Used in Welding Steel.". 003 

Cast-iron Cement. . 203 

Cement for Steampipe Joints..!.."!!!!!!!!.’.’!. X03 

Chinese White Copper. , . . 206 

Cleaning Patent Leather Boots.. 208 

Cheap Tanning without Bark or Mineral Astringents. ^08 

Carnations (paints).. s .5V7 

Chocolate Color. ’ . 2(0 

Common Flesh Color.. o 

Cream Color..*.. 

Chocolate (paint).!.’. . 7 , 1 q 

Common Oil Varnish... 5oo 

Cream (paint). . . 7 , 7 ,t' 

Cream, Another. . 7 > 7 , ± 

Compound Colors. . 227 

Color to Imitate Cherry Tree.!."!. 931 

Curled Maple in Oil for Outside Work.. 240 

Carriage Japan.... 

Carriage Varnish. . o«n 

Copal Varnish. . 5 XI; 

Common Table Varnish.!. 070 

Copal Varnish for Inside Work.. o~o 

Copal Polish. . 

Coach Varnish . ’ . 

Cement Varnish for Water-tight"Luting. ink 

Cheap Oak Varnish.. & . zl- 

Crystal Varnishes.. 2™ 

Colic (to cure in horses). . . 00 3 

Cure for Sweeny. . 2 «q 

Cuts, Wounds and Sores.. om 

Cure for Scratches. . 5X0 

Contracted Hoof and Sore Feet!!.. 

Cracked Heels. . 

Condition Powder.. ogy 


I>ate and Fig Creams. ,9- 

Directions for Freezing Ice Creams ...!'!! . riV 

Damson Wine. . 1 7 L 

Drapers’ Glue for Joining Purposes.’.! !. ISX 

Druggists’Cement. . 

Diamond Cement... 

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Dextrine (mucilage). , Q o 

Dipping Acid (metals).. 009 

Dipping Acid. . 9X0 

Directions for Making Lacquer....!!!!!'.!.'. onq 

Deep Gold-colored Lacquer. . 004. 

Drab (paint)... 5Vq 

Dark Chestnut. . olo 

Drab (2).i”.. 

Dark Red for Common Purposes. .. 01 u 

Dark Yellow. . 

Drab.. 

Di-abmSize. .. 5Xq 

Distemper Color for Waiis!.*.’.*.** .W . oqZ 

Directions for Inside Paintintr. . .!. o?V 

Dove Marble. . 

Dining Table Polish.. Zl? 

Dark Varnish for Light Woodwork... 97^ 

Dammar Varnish. . o«n 

Dark Red Varnish. . X«i 

Diuretics (for horses). ”!!.'.W 034 


Excelsior Syrup. uq 

Economical Vinegar. . 

Effervescing Gooseberry Wine. . 

Egg Wine. . . 1 - fS 

External for the Outside of’Buildings (cement). - .17/5 

Earthenware (cement).. .. . 184 

Elastic (cement). ig 4 

Entomologists (cement).. Y.Y..\.Y..Y..... 184 

Electrical and Chemical Apparatus Cement . 188 

Egyptian Cement.*. 192 

Elastic Mucilage. 193 

Enameled Leather Shoes, Polish for. 208 

Essence Varnishes.'. o 7i 

Etching Varnishes.’ ’ ’’ ’ £77 

Eye Water (horses).’ ’! 1 ’ ’ ’ ]’ * ’ ’ og 4 


Factory Cream Doug;li. 10; 

French Creams. IqX 

French Creams. No. 2.. .. 130 

Fine Peppermint Lozenges..’. 135 

Fig Candy.i !.!136 

Flavorings. 130 

Fruit Cream .’ ‘ * ’ .. -5^7 

Frozen Fruits . 147 

Frozen Beverages.".I."!!!!!!!””.’.’ 147 

Fair Ground Lemonade. ivt 

Flaxseed Lemonade.. .iuu 




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332 


ALPHABETICAL INDEX 




Fireproof Glue. 

Fire and Waterproof Glue. 

Fireproof (cement). 

Floor Cement.. 

Fine Stuff. 

Foundation of Building. . 

Fireproof Composition. 

French (cement). 

Flour Paste that will not Sour. 

Fusible Metal. 

Files... 

Fine Silver-colored Metal. 

Fusible Alloy which Melts in Boiling Water 

For Tinning Brass. 

Fine Black Varnish for Coaches. 

French Polish or Dressing for Leather. 

French Polish. 

Flesh Color (paint) . 

Freestone Color. 

For a Pure White Paint. 

Fine Flesh Color.... 

Fawn Color.. 

French Gray....... 

Flexible Pain t.’ 

Fireproof Paint.. 

French Gray. 

For Outdoor Work.! 

French Polish.. 

Floor Stains.. 

Fancy Woods (stains). . 

Flexible Varnish. ’ * ] 

Furniture Varnish.* 

Furniture Polishes. 

Furniture Cream. 

Furniture Oils.’ ’. 

Furniture Pastes. 

Flexible Varnish. 

Farcy (horse) .* ’ .. 

Farcy and Glanders. 

Founder. 


173 
173 
176 
176 
180 
181 
182 
184 
195 
198 
200 
201 
202 
206 
206 
209 
209 

217 

218 
218 
218 
218 
219 
223 
223 
228 
230 
251 
253 
256 
261 
261 
276 
276 
276 
276 
279 
284 
284 
284 


Grape Syrup. 

German Bitters. 

Ginger Beer... 

Ginger Lemonade. 

Ginger Mead. 

Gooseberry Vinegar. 

Grape Vinegar. 

Grape Wine, Home-Made 


149 

160 

160 

160 

160 

160 

160 

161 















































































































ALPHABETICAL INDEX 353 

"Slue for Damp Places. 173 

r Gauge Stuff (cement). 181 

Glass Cements.-. 18-1 

' 1 Glycerine Cements. 184 

Gasfitters’ Cement. 190 

Gum Arabic (mucilage). 193 

Gum Tragacanth (mucilage). 193 

Gold (sealing wax). 196 

Green (sealing wax). 196 

German Silver, first quality, for Casting..201 

German Silver, second quality, for Casting. 201 

German Silver for Bells, etc. 201 

Gun Metal. 202 

Good Dipping Acid for Cast Brass. 203 

Gold-colored Lacquer for Brass not Dipped. 204 

Gold-colored Lacquer for Dipped Brass. 204 

Good Lacquer for Brass. 204 

Good Lacquer. 204 

Green Bronze Dip. 205 

Gold (paint). 219 

Grass Green. 220 

Green. 224 

Gold Paint. 250 

Glass Varnish. 261 

i Vi Glass Varnish (2). 261 

Gold Varnish. 261 

Grates, Varnish for. 262 

Grecian Varnish. 262 

General Hints on Japanning and Varnishing. 265 

Gum Copal. 266 

Green Japan Grounds. 268 

Gold-colored Varnish for Wood or Metal. 282 

Gold Varnish for Wood or Metal. 282 

Great Arabian Heave Remedy. 284 


Home-Made Maple Sugar . 136 

How to Ornament Cakes.. 136 

Harlequin Ice Cream. 145 

Hamburg Bitters. 161 

Home-Brewed Ale. 161 

Home-Made Soda. 161 

Hop Beer. 161 

Hop Bitters.•.162 

Hop Beer (non-alcoholic). 170 

Hamelein’s Cement. . 179 

Higgin’s Stucco. 181 

, (Hydraulic Cement Paint... 190 

Hardening for Britannia. 201 

Hard White Metal. 202 

Hard Cement. 207 

Harness (blacking). 209 











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ALPHABETICAL INDEX 

Hints for Trappers and Hunters. 211 

Hunter’s and Trapper’s Secret. 211 

How to Kill Grease Spots before Painting. 224 

Harmony of Colors. 232 

How to Make Colored Varnishes. 281 

Imitation llaiul-made Chocolate. 137 

Italian Cream Operas. 137 

Ice Creams, Ices, etc. 141 

Ice Cream (g-eneral recipe). 142 

Ice Crea-m with Gelatine. 142 

Iced Tea. 102 

Imperial Cream Nectar Soda. 102 

Invalid Jelly. 171 

Ircm Cement. 134 

Ivory Cement. 134 

Iron Rust Cement. 187 

Impervious Cement for Apparatus, Corks, etc. 190 

Imitation of Silver. 201 

Instructions (painting). 222 

Italian Marble. 244 

Imitation of Marbles in Distemper. 245 

Italian Marble. 240 

Ivory or Bone Polish. 251 

India Rubber Varnish. 262 

Italian Varnishes. 278 

India Rubber Varnishes. 279 

Jap Cocoanut. 137 

Jelly Water. 102 

Japanese Cement.' 184 

Jewelers’ Cement. 185 

Jewelers’ Turkish Cement. 191- 

Jasper Marble. 245 

Japanners’ Copal Varnish. 209 

Japanning Old Tea Trays. 269 

Japan Finishing. 269 

Jockey Tricks. 284 

Kisses... 137 

Koumiss (or milk beer). 102 


.Lemon Ice. 145 

Lemon Sherbet with White of Egg. 146 

Lemon Syrup.-... 149 

Lemonade for Invalids. 102 

Lemon Beer.102 

Lemon Cordial. 163 


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Lemonade Powder. 

Lime-Juice Di’ink. 

Linseed Meal Poultice. 

Labeling on Metal or Glass (glue for). 
Liquid Glue. 

Liquid Glue. 

Leather Cement. 

Lamp Cement, 

Leather Cements. 

Leather to Rubber. 

Leather to Metal. 

Liquid Cement. 

Labeling (mucilage). 

Liquid Mucilage. Hp 

Lining Metal for Boxes of Railroad Cars. 
Lacquer for Dipped Brass. 

Lacquer for Bronzed Brass. 

Lacquer for Dipped Brass. 

Lacquer for Philosophical Instruments. 

Leather, Care of and Polishes for. 

Liquid Blacking for Boots and Shoes.... 

Lead Color (paint). 

Lilac. 

Lead. 

Lime Whitewash.. 

Lime Whitewash.--- 1 . 

Linseed Oil Varnish. 

Liniment to Kill Pain (horse). 

Liniment, Wolf’s. . . 


Mol asses Candy. 

Maple Caramels. . 

Molasses Popcorn Balls... 

Molasses Taffy. ; .— 

Mock Pistachio IceCream. 

Moss Ice Cream. Mousse. 

Mixed Ices or Macedoines.. 

Maple Syrup. 

Mulberry Syrup. 

Mother, To Prevent (in vinegar). 

Medicinal Liquor. 

Maple Beer. 

Mead. 

Milk or Cream, Substitute for. 

Molasses Beer . 

Mulled Buttermilk. 

Meat Juice.. • . ... 

Mineral Glue for Geologists and Mineralogists- 

Marine Glue. 

Metal Glue. 

Mouth or Lip Glue. 


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Mortar, To Make . 176 

Miscellaneous Builders’ Cements. 177 

Mastic Cement for Covering the Fronts of Houses. 178 

Maltha or Greek Mastic. 180 

Metal to Fibrous Material (to fasten). 185 

Metal to Glass. 185 

Microscopic (cement). 185 

Marble Cement. 189 

Mucilages. 192 

Mucilage for Labels. 193 

Marbled Sealing Wax. 196 

Metallic Cement. 198 

Metal for Taking Impressions. 202 

Mock Platinum. 205 

Mixture for Silvering. 206 

Mixing Paints. 218 

Milk Paint for Indoor Work. 221 

Metallic Paint. 224 

Milk Paint for Outdoor Work. 229 

Marble to Resemble Jasper... 247 

Mahogany Stain. 253 

Mahogany Stains. 256 

Mahogany Varnish." 262 

Mastic Varnish. 262 

Mahogany Varnish.275 

Milk of Wax. 277 

Mastic Varnishes. 279 

Mange.285 


Nougat.. 

Nut Taffy. 

Nectar Syrup. 

Nourishing Lemonade. 


Opera Creams. 

Orange Sherbet. 

Orange Sherbet. 

Orange Flower (syrup). 


Ormolu. . 

Ormolu Dipping Acid for Sheet Brass!!!.’!... 

Ormolu Dipping Acid for Sheet or Cast Brass...! 

Olive Bronze Dip for Brass. 

Oil Paste for Blacking Boots and Shoes. 

Orange (paint). 



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ALPHABETICAL INDEX 


357 



Olive. . 

Orange. 

Olive Greeen. 

Outside Work, Durable Paint for 

Orange for Walls and Stables_ 

Oil for Graining Oak... 

Oak (stain). 

Orange-colored Grounds.. 

Oil Varnishes. 


Pine Tree Tar Cough Camly. 

Peppermint, Rose or Hoarhound Candy.. 

Popcorn, White or Red. 

Philadelphia Ice Cream. 

Peach Ice Cream. 

Pistachio Ice Cream. 

Pineapple Sherbet. 

Peach Cordial. 

Peppermint Cordial.. 

Peruvian Bitters. 

Pineapple Water. 

Pomegranate Drink... 

Pop. 

Portable Lemonade. 

Poultice for Chilblains. 

Portable Glue. 

Parchment Glue .. 

Prepared Liquid Glue. 

Plaster in Imitation of Marble Scagliola 

Plumbers’ Cement. 

Powerful Cement for Broken Marble. 

Pastes. 

Perpetual Paste. 

Photographic Paste. 

Paste that will Not Sour. 

Paper and Leather Paste. 

Paste to Fasten Cloth to Wood. 

Pertaining to Metals. 

Pinchbeck. 

Pale Lacquer for Tin-plate. 

Pale Lacquer for Brass. 

Plumbers’ Solder. 

Pewters’ Solder. 

Patent Blacking. 

Paste Blacking for Boots and Shoes. 

Patent Leather, To Restore Enainel. 


218 

219 

220 
224 
228 
233 
253 
268 
271 


138 

138 

139 
142 
144 
144 
146 
165 
165 
165 
165 
165 
165 
165 
172 
175 
175 
175 
180 

191 

192 

194 

195 
195 
195 
195 
195 
197 
201 
204 

204 

205 
205 

209 

210 
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Paints 

Pearl Gray (paint). 

Purple (tint of paint) 

Peach Blossom 
Paint Dryers 

Paint for Rough Woodwork 
Phosphorescent, 

Pink 

Painting in Dead Colors for Inside Work 
Pollard Oak in Distemper 
Pollard Oak in Oil 
Polishing, 

Purple Japan Grounds 
Painting Japan Work 
Poll Evil (horse) 


Quick Bright Dipping Acid for 
been Ormolned 

Queen’s Metal 


Raisin Candy 

Raspberry (syrup) 

Raisin Wine 
Raspberry Shrub 
Raspberry Vinegar 
Raspberry Wine 
Red Currant Wine with Raspberries 
Rhubarb Sherbet 
Root Beer 
Royal Cordial 
Restorative Jelly 
Rhubarb Sherbet 
Rubber Glue 
Rubber Cement 
Roofing Cement", 

Red Sealing Wax 
Red for Cans 

Rare and Valuable Compositions 
Red Brass for Turning 
Red Brass, Free, for Turning 
Rivet Metal 
Rivet Metal for Hose 
Red Lacquer for Brass 
Reddish Brown (paint) 

Red Marble 
Red Cherry (stain) 

Rosewood Stains 
Rosewood 











































































































dour 1,onion Drops. 138 

Stick Candy. ... ... .. 1.38 

Strawberry.. 138 

Sugar Candy.138 

Strawberry Ice Cream.144 

Sherbets and Water Ices.145 

Strawberry or Blackberry Sherbet.146 

Syrups and Flavors. 148 

Sarsaparilla (syrup).149 

Sherbet.’.149 

Sacramental Wine....!!.!**.!!.*”! 167 

Sarsaparilla Beer. 187 

Sarsaparilla Mead. 167 

Sassafrass Mead. 167 

Sherbet. . 167 

Slippery Elm Bark Tea. . 167 

Small Beer. 167 

Soda Powders. 168 

Spruce Beer. . 168 

Stomach Bitters. 168 

Stoughton Bitters. 168 

Straight Lemonade.. 168 

Strawberry Cordial. . 169 

Strawberry Sherbet. 169 

Strawberry Water. 169 

Strawberry Wine. 169 

Sago, Cream and Extract of Beef... 172 

Sassafras Mead. 172 

Sherbet. 172 

Soda Powders. 172 

Straight Lemonade. 172 

Strawberry Sherbet. 172 

Spalding’s Liquid Glue. 175 

Stucco for Inside of Walls. 180 

Safety Envelope. 185 

Starch Paste... 196 

Sealing Wax. 196 

Solders, Alloys, etc.. 197 

Soldering. 197 

Soldering Fluid. 197 

Solder, To Prepare. .198 

Solder for Steel Joints.. 199 

Soft Gold Solder. . 200 

Spanish Tutania. 202 

Solder for Gold. . . 202 

Solder for Silver... 202 

Solder for Copper..,. 202 

Soft Solder... 202 

Silver Solder for Plated Metals..202 

Silvering by Heat. 206 

Separate Silver from Copper. 206 

Solvent for Gold.. 206 




O Jt 


K 



















































































































3 GO 


ALPHABETICAL INDEX 


Speculum Metal. 

Soft Cement for Steam Boilers, Steampipes, etc, 

Staining Wood and Ivory. 

■Silver-plating Fluid. 

Stains on Leather (to remove). 

Skinning Animals. 

Stretching and Drying. 

Stuffing and Mounting Birds. 

Stuffing and Mounting Small Animals. 

Stuffing. Preparation for. 

Straw (tint of paint) . 

Steel (tint of paint). 

Silver (tint of paint). 

Salmon (tint of paint). 

Superior Paint for Brick Houses. 

Steel. 

Stone... 

Straw. 

Size... 

Salmon (compound color). 

Straw Color in Size. 

Spirit Graining for Oak. 

Satin Wood (to imitate). 

Sienna Marble (to imitate). 

Staining. 

Some Additional Processes for Staining Wood.. 

Spanish Mahogany Stain. 

Satin Wood..... 

Stains for Soft Woods... 

Shellac Varnish. 

Stove Varnish. 

Spirit Varnishes... 

Soft Brilliant Varnish.... 

Size or Varnish for Printers. 

Spavin and Ringbone.... 


207 
207 
207 
210 
211 
211 
212 
213 
215 
219 
219 
219 
219 

225 

226 
226 
226 
227 
227 
229 
233 
240 
244 
252 
254 

256 

257 
257 
263 
263 
270 
273 
278 
285 


The Confectioner and Baker. 133 

To Make a Candy House. 139 

To Make a Delicious Cocoanut Candy Cake . 140 

To Work Over Scraps of Candy.. 140 

To Cook Over Maple Sugar.. 140 

Tea, Perfect Method of Making. 169 

Toast Water. 170 

Tapioca and Cod Liver. 172 

To Fasten Rubber to Wood or Metal. 175 

To Fasten Paper to Tin. 175 





























































































ALPHABETICAL INDEX 361 

Tin-box Cement. 191 

To Preserve Mucilage..*. 193 

To Prevent Rusting. .. ..200 

To Galvanize.200 

Torubac. 202 

To Prepare Brasswork for Ormolu Dipping. 203 

To Repair Old Nitric Acid Ormolu Dips. 203 

Tinning Acid for Brass or Zinc. 203 

To Bronze Gun Ban*els. 206 

To Loosen Rusted Screws. 207 

To Tan Raw Hide. 210 

Tanning with the Hair On. 215 

Tanning without the Hair... 215 

The Painter and Decorator. 216 

To Mix (paints). 216 

Table I. (oil and paint). 216 

Table II., To Mix Paints for Tints. 217 

Tinting. 217 

To Mix Common White Paint. 218 

To Paint a Bronze. 220 

Tar Paint for Fences, Roofs, etc.t. 220 

To Imitate Granite. 222 

Transparent Varnish for Pictures. 222 

Table III. (covering properties of paints). 222 

To Harden Wood. 226 

The Art of Painting on Glass. 226 

To Imitate Ground Glass... 226 

To Paint in Imitation of Ground Glass. 226 

To Whiten Ceilings or Walls. 230 

To Make Paste for Paper-hanging . 231 

The Second Coat for White.. . . 231 

The Third Coat..-,. 232 

To Flat a French Gray on Hard Finished Walls. 232 

To Make and Apply the Flating.. 232 

To Prepare the Ground for the Oak Rollers. 233 

To Imitate Oak in Distemper (2 methods). 235 

To Imitate Old Oak... 236 

To Grain Oak in Distemper. 236 

To Imitate Old Oak in Oil. 236 

To Imitate Pollard Oak./. . 236 

To Imitate Mottled Mahogany (2 methods). 237 

To Imitate New Mahogany. 238 

To Imitate Rosewood with Rollers (5 methods—one in size). 238 

To Imitate Bird’s eye Maple (2 methods). 239 

To Imitate Curled Maple (3 methods).. . 240 

To Imitate Yew Tree. 241 

To Imitate Hairwood. 241 

To Imitate Oriental Verd-antique Marble. 241 

To Imitate Black and Gold Marble. 242 

To Polish Woods and Marbles. 248 

'"N) Imitate Porphry Marble (2 methods). 248 

' 1 Imitate Granite (3 methods). 249 


































































































































1 

I r Wl 

T9 






ALPHABETICAL INDEX 

To Imitate Black and Gold Marbles for Table Tong Side¬ 
boards, etc. 040 

To Imitate Tortoise Shell.!!!..!!!!.!!!!!.!!...’’’ 249 

To Heighten the Color of Gold or Brass. 040 

To Dissolve Gold. . t 250 

The Old Method for Coloring Wood Red !!!!!!!! .* .*.*.*!..’'** 054 

To Make Sweet Oil Turps without Smell. . . ow 

To Varnish Prints.«. . 0^7 

To Polish on Paint. . oc-7 

Tar Varnish. . ‘ 


Tin, Japan for.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!”!. o«q 

Tin, Lacquer for ..*.!!!!. ocq 

Turpentine Varnish.*.*. 

Transparent Japan.. 204 

Transparent Japan.. ooq 

Tortoise Shell Japan.*. 5oo 

Table Varnish . .. 070 

To Prepare a Varnish for Coating Metals!!.!!. 07? 

To Varnish Articles of Iron and Steel... 

The Varnish of Water for Gilded Articles.. 275 

To Varnish Card work .. . 07 « 

Transparent Green. .— oei 

The Farrier. ).’**’’***j*** . 

Universal Cement. 186 

Vanilla Ice Cream. U n 

Vanilla Sugar. ... Lfq 

Vanilla Cream. . . 

Vanilla Syrup. . 

Very Useful to Dealers...!””***. 

Vinegars. . 

Valuable Cement... 

Vinegar Bronze for Brass.!!!!!!!!!!’*’. onu 

Varnish for Smooth Molding Patterns... 200 

Varnish for Leather. .. oVn 

Verd-antique (to imitate, 2 methods) !!.’.**!”!!”!!!!!!!!!!.!!! 246 



dfy 

Varnishes and Japans... 

Violin Varnish • * .. •••• 


■ 


Varnish for Ironwork. ... . 



Varnish for Certain.Parts of Carriages 




Varnish for Woodwork.!!!!!!!*. 0-7- 

Varnish for Instruments.!!!. o-~2 

Varnish for Wood Toys.. 

Varnishes for Furniture.* .. oX5 

Varnish for Engraving Maps, etc.!!.’!! . 077 

XfSHS ^ n F r avings or Lithographs on Wood!!!!!!! 277 
Vaimsh for Oil Paintings and Lithographs.... . 077 




























































































Varnish for Oil Paintings. 277 

Varnish for Paper-hangings. .*’** 278 

Varnish for Brick Walls. 279 

Varnish for Waterproof Goods.280 

Varnishes for Balloons, Gas-bags, etc. 280 

Violet (varnish). 282 



Walnut Caramels 

Wild Cherry Syrup . 

W intergreen. 

Welsh Nectar. 

Whey. 

White Wine Vinegar 
Wild Cherry Bitters 
Waterproof Glue 

Wall Finish. 

Waterproof and Fireproof Cement for Roofs of Houses.. 

White (sealing wax) . 

White Solder for Silver.. 

White Solder for Raised Britannia-ware 

Waterproof for Leather... 

Waterproof Blacking for Boots and Shoes 
Waterproof Blacking for Harness 
Waterproof Varnish for Linen and Calico 

White (for varnish). 

White Veined Marble. 

Waterproof Polish (woods). 

White (polish)... 

Woods (to polish). 

Wax Varnish.. 

White Varnish.. 

White Japan Grounds. 

White Spirit Varnish. 

White Hard Spirit Varnishes. 

White Varnish. 

Water Varnish for Oil Paintings 

Waterproof Varnishes. 

Wainscot Varnish for House Painting and Japanning 
Wounds and Cuts (to cure in horses)" 

MA 11 ' 

Sfj 1 xi 

MkV* 

Lb \ 


fet M 


4^ 


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Yellow (sealing wax). 

Yellow Brass for Turning. 

Yellow Solder for Brass or Copper. 
Yellow Solder for Brass or Copper (best). 


tfCJtJ'oJ 







11 


SW ' V 1 (. fes. r j f/i/V 


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Yellow Dipping Metal. 202 

Yellow for Floors (paint). 227 

Yellow Grounds (.iapan).. 268 

Yellow (varnish to make). 281 


DEPARTHENT VI.—THE FARM AND DAIRY. 


Axle Grease, To Make . . 287 

Apples, To Dry. 29a 

Apples, To Keep. 294 

Apples. To Pack. 294 

Apple Tree Louse. 302 

Army Worms. 302 


Bins and Piles, To Measure . 287 

Beans, Lima, To Dry.,. 297 

Beans, String, To Dry. 297 

Beans, To Keep. 297 

Butter, To Make. 300 

Butter, To Make Come. 300 

Butter, To Color. 301 

Butter, Rancid, To Purify. 301 

Bark Lice. 303 

Borers. 303 

Ball Worm. 303 





Clearing-Ground of Stones . 287 

Clearing Stumps by Blasting. 287 

Changes in Weather, How to Foretell. 291 

Chemical Barometer. 291 

Catgut and Straw. 291 

Color of Sky. 291 

Cherries, To Dry. j 294 

Cranberries, To Keep.295 

Currants. To Dry. 295 

Cabbage, To Keep. 297 

Cauliflower. To Keep.297 

Celery, To Keep. 297 

Corn, To Dry. 297 

Cinch Bug. 303 

Colorado Beetle or Potato Bug. "’*'"*** . 304 

Corn Moth.*.... 304 

Cotton Army Worm. .* 304 

Caterpillars. 395 


fgX 


















































































ALPHABETICAL INDEX 


draining-. 

Dairy, The. 

Destructive Insects 


Fertilizers, Artificial. 

Fertilizers from Carcasses. 

Fruit and Vegetables, Storing and Curing. 
Figs, To Dry. 


Gooseberries, To Dry. 

Grapes, To Dry.. .. 

Grapes, To Keep. 

Grain Weevil. 


Lunations of the Moon.... 

Lemons, To Keep. 

Lemons and Oranges, To Pack 


Milk and Milking 


Onions, To Keep 


Plants or Trees in Acre. 

Peaches, To Dry. 

Peaches and Pears, To Keep.. 

Parsley, To Dry. 

Parsnips, To Keep. 

Peas, To Dry. 

Peas, Green, To Keep. 

Potatoes, To Keep . 

Pumpkins, To Dry. 




Quantity of Seed Required for a Given Space. 

Quantity of Seed to the Acre. 


Raspberries, To Dry 

Rhubarb, To Dry. . 


Smoke. 

Storing and Cunn; 
Salsify, To Keep.. 



^ 1 

f! I 

3 . 

m, 








































































































ALPHABETICAL INDEX 



366 

Squashes, To Dry. 299 

Sweet Potatoes, To Keep. 299 

Strawberry Worm. . 306 


Tomatoes, To Keep 

Turnips, To Keep. 

Tobacco Worm. 


Vegetables 


Weather Indications . 291 

Wind. 293 


299 

299 

306 


296 


DEPARTMENT VII.—GENERAL MISCELLANY. 


A Gelatine Mold for Casting Plaster Paris Orna¬ 


ments. 307 

Ai t of Etching on Copper. 307 

A Patent is a Protection. 321 


Celluloid, To Make. 307 

Copying Pad for Taking Transfers of Writing. 308 

Cottolene, Cottosuet, Vegetole, etc., To Make. 308 

Cigars, To Flavor. 308 

Corks, To Prepare for Bottles. 309 

Cotton Duck, To Make Mildew Proof. 309 

Caveats. 322 


Designs.322 


Everlasting Fence Posts.... . 309 

Eggs, To Preserve. 309 


Glass, To Etch Upon. 309 

Glass, To Cut or Break in any Shape. 310 

Glass, To Bore Holes in. 310 

Ground Glass, Imitation of. 311 

Glass, Pencils for Writing on.311 

Glass, To Powder. 311 

Glass, Prince Ruperi’s Di'ops...I’..’.’!!”!.!!.!.’! 311 



















































































Alphabetical index 


367 

Horn, To Weld. 311 

How to Protect Your Invention. 321 

Hints on Patents and Inventions_'.,. 321 

How a Copyright is Secured.. 322 


Ice, Artificial. 311 

Ivory, Artificial. 312 

Ivory, Black. 312 

Ivory, To Make Transparent.*. 312 

Kustitiens Metal for Tinning-. 312 

Bard Compound . 312 

Leaf Photographs. 312 

Making Blackboards. 313 

Marble, Artificial... 313 

Molds and Dies. . 313 

Molds of Glue and Molasses. . 313 

Muriate of Tin (tin liquor). 313 

Matches, Parlor. 314 

Matches, Safety. 314 

Oleomargarine Manufacture. 314 

Pencils, Blacklead. 314 

Pencils, Indelible.. 315 

Peneil Writing, To Fix. 315 

Patent Lubricating Oil. 315 

Powder for Cleaning and Polishing Tin, Britannia and 

Brass ware. 315 

Peculiar Experiments. 320 

Rubber, Artificial. 315 

Rubber Hand Stamps. . 315 

Rubber Stamps for Photographs. 316 

Rubber, To Dissolve. 316 

Rubber, To Restore Elasticity of. 316 

Rubber Hose, Composition for. 316 

Rubber Hose, To Repair. 316 

Rubber, To Preserve. 316 

Stencil Cutting. 317 

Tobacco, To Flavor.... 317 

Tobacco Pipes, To Clean. 317 




































































































368 


ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 


Tortoise Shell Imitation.•. 31? 

To Take Facsimiles of Signatures. . . 317 

To Transfer Prints, etc., To Glass. !!*!!'...! 317 

To Clean Oil Paintings if Smoked Dull or Dirty. .”...! 318 

To Whiten Linseed Oil. 318 

To Cure Damp Walls.313 

To Prepare Wood and Brickwork from Damp Weather!! 318 

To Transfer Printed Matter and Print from it Again. 318 

To Keep Tires Tight on Wheels. 319 

To Whom Letters Patent are Granted.*.*.* ** 321 

Trade Marks, Labels, Prints, etc. !!.!!!.!! 321 

Unshrinkable Patterns. 319 

Vomiting, To Stop. 319 


Water Filter, To Make 

Wax Flower’s, To Make. 

Wood, To Petrify. 

What to Invent. 


NOTE.— When there is more than one method given for per¬ 
forming the same thing, the form most in use is indexed, the 
others following it not being mentioned. Reference to the first 
will call attention to the others. The subject matter is for the 
greater part classified under the sub-heads alphabetically, but 
in some cases this rule has not been adhered to. Reference to 
the 3 able of Contents will show in what department any recipe 
can be found, while the index will indicate the page. If proper 
care is exercised it will not be found difficult to locate any 
formula in the book in a moment’s time. 


































































































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